Democrat Alda - Belletonte, Pa., August 17, 1917. : sm Making Silks for the American Trade. Silks of various sorts have been manufactured in the United States of America for a long, long time, hut it is within the last few years that a great impetus has been given to the industry. “We have surprised ourselves,” said Mr. J. A. Migel, a silk expert, tc a representative of The Christian Sci- ence Monitor. “With the exception ot the heavy, laborious fabrics, such as hand-made heavy brocades and silver tinsel materials, we are the equal, here in the United States, of any silk- weaving country in the world today. We have some wonderful looms; they seem, some of them, almost to talk. One of the newest of these enables | us to repeat designs at wide intervals. We have long been able to repeat small patterns at frequent intervals, close together, that is, but not with wide intervening spaces.” As he spoke, he showed his caller some beautiful heavy silk, 40 inches wide, with broad stripes of dark colors and, here and there, scattered rather in- frequently over it, a small medallion in soft but beautiful opalescent colors, reminding one somewhat of the col- ors in a peacock’s tail. This was made on one of those new American looms. «We have plenty of materials for silk weaving here in this country, plenty of artistic talent for designs and plenty of dyes to get the colors that we desire,” he continued. “We have also taken great strides in the printing of silks here. In fact, we have perfected a method of accom- plishing this by extracting color. It is an interesting process. We dye the silk the color we went for the background—say brown, for instance; then, with certain rollers, we go all over it and extract the red, perhaps, then the black and so on from dif- ferent parts of «it, until we have achieved the design we want. This new process gives a much cleaner cut print than the old method of ap- plying the colors. “As for inspiration for designs, we find that everywhere about us. course, each silk manufacturer is eager to go where others do not. 1 believe that imagination is needed more than inspiration, for as I said. we have plenty of inspiration around us all of the time. For instance, one day a girl came in here wearing a tie that was finished off with little balls on the ends. As I looked at her, I noticed that those balls fell into an excellent design and the artist who was with me at the time sketched it hastily, the girl obligingly standing still for a few moments so that we coulu get it on paper. I mention that just to prove my assertion that the in- spiration is wherever we are. The problem of the design of silks resolves itself, however, in the last analysis, into the one question of how it is going to look on the girl or woman who wears it. One designer, whose work has pleased me much, is a Jap- anese student of botany, who has been able to combine his knowledge of flow- ers with his knowledge of handcraft. “This next season is to be one of plain silks, that is, solid colors. Satin is to be a favorite. Also, there will be beautiful brocades in solid colors, monotonous, as we say. This, of course, is merely the logical reaction from the brilliant, many colored effects which have been so popular for some time.” Among the new silks already pre- pared for the fall and winter wear, which this manufacturer then showed, was a beautiful brocade, a soft, crepey silk made up of broad stripes all in one color, the differerce being that half were satin finished. The bro- cade design was woven in also in the solid color, but, where the pattern be- gan in the plain stripe, however, it was finished on the crepe, stripe also in the satin, and the same was true of that begun on the crepe stripe. One of the new silks, which he expects to be popular in the coming season, is a soft, rich, pebble-back charmeuse, Moonglo Crepe, as he calls it, and a very lovely fabric. «With all due respect and admira- tion for the beautiful silks made in the Old World, where they have been manufactured for centuries, there has never been, to my knowledge, a real demand in this country for foreign cilks on the ground of their wearing any better than American silks. A few exclusive houses, however, have believed that, by bringing a small quantity, perhaps 15 yards, of some silk over here, they could sell it at an exclusive price to 2 woman who would like to have something that no other woman here could have and was will- ing and able to pay for it. That, of course, made other women want ex- clusive, imported silks. Now those silk manufacturers in Europe can af- ford to sell 15-yard quantities, because they can sell 15 yards in each of sev- eral different countries. We, however, have only one market, practically, America, and it does not pay us to weave only 15 yards of a kind; we need to make 1000 or 2000 yards. That is one drawback when we urge the people who like to be exclusive to make an energetic, persistent demand for American silks. As a matter of fact, I should say that nine-tenths of the silk that has been sold in this country as foreign has been sold under false pretenses; it has really been manufactured right here. We are making silks on a large scale now, here in the eastern part of the United States, and, as I said, we have every facility for a great silk industry. “It is time for the American women not to be hoodwinked by a label; they only pay just that much more,” Mr. Migel concluded. “It stands to reason, in my opinion, that American manu- facturers who know the American type of woman, who are constantly mingling with her in her sports and home and entertaining, are much bet- ter adapted to supply, intelligently and satisfactorily, her demands indi- vidualized, as one might say, than STishoty who does not know her at all. ——For high class Job Work come to the “Watchman” Office. | American Men of Draft Age Flock In- | to War Service. ! America’s men of fighting age are flocking into war service. An unprecedented wave of enlist- ments in the army, navy and marine corps is sweeping the country. Men of conscription age, whose numbers were drawn far down in the master list and who fear they may not be calted for army duty are crowding re- | cruiting stations throughout the na- tion. The first rush came immediately after draft day, recruiting officers de- | clare. Reports gathered by the Unit- ed States press show the rush to the colors is country-wide. In addition to men who want to be sure of seeing | service, many whose numbers were drawn well up in the list are volun- teering in the hope of being able to select the branch of service with which | they will fight. During the past three days 333 men have volunteered, been examined and sent to Fort Slocum for training, in New York. This is an increase of 50 | per cent. In addition to acceptances, | there have been as mary more appli- | cations. More are still coming. Most of the volunteers are men drawn so far from the top they felt they would not be taken in the draft, Colonel Walsh, in charge of recruiting, said. Chicago reports 300 enlistments | during the two days, an increase of 70 | per cent. Applications for enlist- | ment in the marines there have in- creased 400 per cent. Milwaukee reports scores clamor- ing to be taken into the national guard. The guard quota is filled,’ however, and new companies must be | formed if the men are accepted. At Kansas City, 105 men enlisted | in the regular army the first two days | of this week, a 50 per cent. increase | over the daily quota before the draft. | Application for enlistment in the na- | vy trebled. Indianapolis and Cleveland report | big increases. At Indianapolis 148 | men joined the regulars in two days. | A majority of those “joining up” were men who would not be called in | the first draft. | At Detroit, where thirty-three en- | listed in one day, the men said they were volunteering in order to be able to choose their branch of service. Pittsburgh reported 103 enlistments in all branches in two days. in Philadelphia applications for en- listment are coming at a rate of 180 a day. This 1s almost double the rate before the draft. Boston reports similar conditions. Enlistments in the army there total- led 157 for two days. Navy and marine corps enlistments also in- creased. Want Girl Farm Hands. A cheerful and welcome change in the general chorus against the value- lessness of city-bred people for farm labor is the piercing cry from farmers and fruit growers of New York for girls and women workers immediate- ly or sooner. The appeal has fallen to Mayor Mitchell’s committee of women on national defense and that body is doing everything possible to get enough girls to pick the fruit, which is threatened with loss of mar- ket value by over ripening. The far- mers and fruit men explain that they will pay the women pickers the same wages given to men, but prefer girls because the nimble fingered office workers who took a chance at the fruit fields for a vacation proved fast- er and more careful with the fruit than the average man. Of course male pickers will not be turned away, but the call makes special mention of the preference for girls. After so many unfavorable reports of the disappointment with young men and boys sent broadcast from the cities to farms by various semi-official organizations, the pointed choice of New York’s farmers and fruit grow- ers for city girls is almost as surpris- ing as finding the end of the rainbow. But the 150 or so girls sent out by the Mayor’s committee who seem to have captured the economic admiration of the farmers, may be that State’s bril- liant exception to the general exper- ience as the phenomenal success of the Pittsburgh High school boys was in Mercer county, while city boy farm workers elsewhere as a rule did not make a hit. Whatever the local ex- planation, the fact is that New York State is overflowing with ripening small fruit, chiefly berries, and that the growers strongly prefer city girl pickers, which gives office-tired ste- nographers and typewriter operators a fine opportunity to get a vacation in the country and earn from $9 to $11 a week, and a coat of real tan. The difficulties surrounaing the har- vesting of crops of all kinds consti- tute problems which deserve the seri- ous consideration of officials invested with scrutiny and guidance of food conditions much more than some al- most theatrical tactics displayed re- cently. There seems to be abundant foods of all kinds, plenty for every- body, but there appears to be far less system in handling crops than in pro- ducing them, evidenced by the frank statement of New York produce inter- ests that New York’s farm products market has broken down just as the flow of farm commodities makes a be- girning.—Pittsburgh Dispatch. His Valid Claim. “Does he claim exempticn from the draft?” “Yes. On the ground that be has dependents to look after.” “Who are they? He has no chil- dren.” “That’s true, but he says his wife's relatives would have nobody to bor- row money from if he were sent to war.”—Detroit Free Press. Both Askers of Riddles. Tailor—When are you going to pay me that pill ? Owens—I declare old chap, you re- mind me of my little nephew. Tailor—I do? Why? Owens—Because you ask ‘questions that for the life of me I cannon ans- wer. Over 18,000 women are em- ployed in the metal trades in Great | boatswain, | The gun captains gathered their crews | grew so large that they might i to summon two or three more men to Britain. “Uncle Sam’s” Chinese Wall. Perhaps the strangest call ever pip- led on a man-of-war was sounded on board the United States | Petrel when it lay at Nanking, China, steamship during the winter of the Chino-Japan- ese war. tze river; owing to a very severe sea- son, the river had frozen over to a depth of nearly two feet, and the Pe- trel was solidly caught in the ice. One der came, “All hands ashore to make a snow fort!” Immediately the entire crew came trooping over the gang- : plank; coal passers, engineers, black- smiths, seamen, petty officers. Once ashore, they rushed about, tumbling one another in the snow, washing one another’s faces, shouting and laugh- ing until you would think Uncle Sam’s ship was a boy’s boarding school. Meanwhile the first lieutenant di- rected two men who carried armfuls of iron rods with a piece of red cloth ‘tied to each to drive the rods into the ice; when the rods were in place they formed a square, with the Petrel in the centre. Then the lieutenant signaled to the who piped the belay!” roll Starting with a handful of together and ordered them to snowballs. snow, each man rolled until he could go no farther; then he would call a mess-mate, and the two would roll the constantly increasing ball until it have roll it into place. The balls were i placed in doubie rows, and then the coal passers, with their shovels, filled in the spacc between the two rows | with nose snow; the rest of the crew raced up and down between the two rows, tramping down the snow as the coal passers threw it in. Thus was built the base of a great snow wall. Rolling more balls the men laid tier | | after tier filling in and tramping down the space until they had all around the Petrel a wall sixteen feet high, eight feet through at the base and five feet at the top. It took three days to build the wall, and the men en- joyed the novel labor so much that they were reluctant even to knock off | work for their meals. On the third day, the men with their shovels, shaped the wall, filled all the crevices with snow and shaved off the rough places until the sides were as straight and smooth as a wall of mar- ble. Then they laid out the fire hose and, turning on a gentle stream of wa- ter, drenched the fortification ther- oughly. The next morning what had been a great wall of soft, white snow was a huge monolith of glistening ice. The sailors were out in a hurry, scratching and jabbing at the ice, until every mother’s son had his name, with place and date of birth, all the boats he had served on, and his entire seafaring history, inscribed on the ice. But the fort was not built merely to amuse the jack-tars. The Petrel was stationed at Nanking to protect the American consul and the other American two six-pounders and a Gatling gun were riggec in each of the Petrel’s fighting tops; by elevating her heavy guns on the deck below she had any attacking party at her mercy. A man could not climb the ice wall even if he oot to it. In case of trouble, the light guns in the tops could keep the ene- my at a distance, while the heavy guns could shell the city.—Ex. A Definition of a Friend. What is a friend? I will tell you. It is a person with whom you dare to be yourself. Your soul can go na- ked with him. He seems to ask of you to put on nothing, only to be what you are. He does not want you to be bet- ter or worse. When you are with him, you feel as a prisoner feels, who has been declared innocent. You do not have to be on your guard. You can say what you think, express what you feel. He is shocked at nothing, so long as it is genuinely you. He under- stands those contradictions in your nature that led others to misjudge you. With him you breathe free. You can take off your coat and loosen your collar. You can avow your little van- ities and hates and vicious sparks, your meanness and absurdities and in opening them up to him they are lost, dissolved in the white ocean of his loy- alty. He understands. You do not have to be careful. You can abuse him, neglect him, berate him. Best .of all, you can keep still with him. It makes no matter. He likes you. He is like fire that purifies all you do. He is like water that cleanses all you say. He is like wine that warms you to the bone. He understands, he under- stands. You can weep with him, lavgh with him, sing with him, pray with him. Through and underneath it all, he sees, knows and loves you. A friend, I repeat, is one with whom you dare to be yourseli.—Ex. Sharp Reduction in Coal Prices Pre- dicted Shortly. Washington, D. C., Aug. 15.—Sharp reduction in coal costs was predicted by officials to-night as a result of the Senate’s passage to-day of the food control bill carrying a provision for government fixing of fuel prices. The federal trade commission, which the measure authorizes the President to designate as an agency to enforce the provision, is ready to make out a price scale at short notice. For months the commission has gathered facts as to production costs and in a report to Congress pointed out that prices are too high. Bituminous prices to the general public were fixed at $3.00 in a recent agreement between producers, mem- bers of the commission and other gov- ernment officials. This price was to hold until a final price is determin- ed upon. Investigation has convinced members of the commission that this price is too high and that coal can be sold at a much lower figure and still leave a handsome profit for the pro- ducer. President Wilson probably will issue an executive order at the time he signs the bill, authorizing the com- mission to proceed with price-fixing. ——For high class job work come to the “Watchman” office. i | | Dr. Joseph Kalbfus, secretary of the | | State Game Commission, has issued | | the following statement relative to the The Petrel lay in the Yang- | citizens who lived there. | After the wall had been completed," Training of Dogs. ‘training of dogs: | Under the provisions of Section 26 of the Act of June 7th, 1917, the new | game law of this State, dogs, when | | accompanied by and under control of | their masters, may be trained upon morning, just after inspection, the or- | any of the living wild game or birds i of this State, excepting elk, and deer, { and fawn, or wild turkeys, from the | first day of September to the first day | | of March, next following, Sundays ex- ' cepted, so long as no injury is inflict- led upon said animals or birds. We recognize the fact that it would be im- . | possible to adcpt a hard and fast rule | regarding the training of all dogs. We know that while the bird dog may | be and should be limited in its range, | both in the matter of time such dog | may run as well as in the distance he i may go from his master, that to at- { tempt to apply to rabbit dogs or coon ! dogs a rule that might be applied to { bird dogs would not only be unfair, #8 | but would also be ridiculous and im- '§ | possible. | We, therefore, | this provision in a manner that will | place bird dogs under the rule that | might be applied to rabbit dogs, or to coon dogs, and to say that dogs in | this respect shall be under a reasona- | | ble control by their masters. By this | we mean that the person in control shall take his dog out, and when the man returns te his | of what harm they may do. During that interval between Sep- | tember 1st and March 1st, next fol- { lowing, the majority of game, both | animals and birds, is so fairly well | | matured as to be able to take resona- | ble care of itself for a limited period, | but just as the fox hound can mun | down and kill a fully develeped fox by | persistent and continued effort, so much of our game could be and would be destroyed if dogs were to run at ning of dogs in course of training will not he questioned during that period day of March, next following, if the dog is under the reasonable care and lowed to run for such a lengthy peri- od as must, of necessity, result in in- jury cr death to the game pursued. Eradicating Poison Ivy. The persistency with which poison ivy perpetuates itself, and its all too prevalent occurrence emphasizes the necessity for persistence in control measures. If possivle, it should be grubbed out by one who is immune to the poison and the parts of the plant gathered into a pile and burned. Do ja inhale the resulting smoke or al- low it to get into the eyes. When no one can be found who is immune to the plant, it may be grub- bed out in the fall after it has ceas- ed to flower and the sap has left it. The person doing the work must be thoroughly protected against contact with plants by gauntlets and overalls, and the parts of the clothes touched by the plants should not come in con- tact with the skin. If this method seems undesirable, the botany depart- ment of The Pennsylvania State Col- lege recommends the application of a few drops of concentrated sulphuric acid at the base of the stem close to the roots every few days. This may be done with on ordinary mechanic’s oil can. Hot brine or caustic soda may be substituted for the sulphuric acid. Don’t allow a dangerous plant like poison ivy to go to seed and contami- nate the farm for years to come. Fre- quently it is found along fence rews and roadsides where it is often neg- lected. Poison ivy is distinguished from Virginia Creeper by the three leaflets to the group as compared with the five leaflets of the Virginia Creeper. Government Shoe Orders. The Government has just placed ad- ditionl orders for between 300,000 and 500,000 pairs of army shoes for quick delivery—September, or earlier—if possible. These went to the manufac- turers, largely in New England, who are already working on Government contracts. This brings the total Gov- ernment orders close to 10,500,000 pairs. In addition there are the 2,- 000,000 pairs to be made for Russia. The Government has also called for bids to be submitted by manufactur- ers on 1,600,000 taps and shoe top- pieces to be used in repairing Army shoes. These Government orders for repair work will constitute an impor- tant item as time goes on and more troops take the field. What D—d Stood For. _ Young William was evincing much interest in the evening paper, but fi- nally a puzzled look came over his countenance. “Mother,” said he, finally, does D—d stand for?” “Doctor of Divinity, my son. Don’t they teach you the common abbrevia- tion in school ?” “Sure; but that don’t seem to sound right here.” “Read it out aloud.” “Witness: I heard the defendant say, “I'll make you suffer for this. I'li be doctor of divinity if I don’t!”— Harper's Magazine. “what Political Dates in Calender for 1917. August 22—Last day for filing nom- ination petitions. Wednesday, September 19—prima- election day, changed from Tues- ay. August 30—First day for registra- tion in cities. September 4 and 5—Last days to be assessed in boroughs and townships. October 6—Last day to pay poll tax to qualify for voting at fall election. October 4—Last day for filing pri- mary election expense account. December 6—Last day for filing election expense account. ——Subscribe for the “Watchman.” propose to interpret shall | | see to it that the dog is taken home | @@8 home, | & t and that dogs shall not be turned out | | to run as they please all day or all | | night as the case may be, regardless | will during any period of the year in| this State, and the law does not in- | tend that this shall be, but the run-! between September 1st and the 1st control of its master, and is not al- | It Will Pay You AND PAY YOU BIG To buy your next Summer's Suit or your next Winter's Suit NOW. No promises but facts that you can see for yourself. Investigate You will see what we tell you 1s ab- solutely true. FAUBLE’S. Allegheny St. BELLEFONTE, PA. 58-4 LYON ® COMPANY. AUGUST Clearance Sale Of all Summer Dress Fabrics. Great Bargains in Every Department. Lawn and Voiles for 10c. Con- tinuation of our Under-muslin Sale of low neck and short sleeve gowns from 48 cents up. Muslin Drawers from 23 cents up. A Closing Out Sale of all discon- tinued numbers of Royal Worces- - ter and Bon Ton Corsets at less than cost to manufacture. Other bargains too numerous to mention in our limited space. SHOES.—AIll Summer Shoes for Men, Women and Children in black, phite and tan. Low and high shoes at sacrifice prices. Visit our store during the month of August and see for yourself the wonderful’ things we offer at greatly reduced prices. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANAAANAA Lyon & Co. -- Bellefonte.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers