Bea tan iia Belletonte, Pa., May 29, 1914. JUST SUPPOSE. If all the lads and lasses should remember for a day \ To do their errands and their tasks as surely as their play, Should hang their hats and jackets up, and put away their toys, Should remember that the garden is the place to make a noise— Why, what a very pleasant world for mothers this would be! How very many happy mother faces we should see! For children don’t remember, as everybody knows: But, if the children should—why—just sup- pose! If all the children’s mothers turned forgetful in a a day, If, instead of taking care of toys, they threw them all away, Forgot to bake the cookies and forgot the tales to tell, Forgot to kiss the aching bumps and make the bruises well— Why what a very dreary world for children this would be! How very many melancholy little folks we'd see! For mothers all remember, as everybody knows: But, if the mothers shouldn’t—why—just sup- pose. —H. G. Fernald. FROM INDIA. By One on Medical Duty in that Far Eastern Country. A Hindustan Engagement. Attend- ing a Miserly Patient. More Hot Weather, Etc. JHANSI, APRIL 28th, 1913. Dear Home Folk: I must tell you of a Hindustani engage- ment that has just taken place here; as it is the same all over India, you will be interested. One of our nurses decided some time ago that she was not happy and wished to get married, so told Miss McL. her wish. Miss McL. is superin- tendent of the nurses and is also new here. She wrote to all the mission sta- tions she knew about telling them of the girl and asking if they knew of a suita- ble man. It took piles of time and pa- per but finally an answer came to her from a man. It was written in red ink and bad English but the purport was that he was a “padre,” forty-five years of age and a widower, desiring another better- half. Our maiden is twenty-two years old, and rather decent looking. We debated as to what we should do and finally de- cided to tell the maiden and let her de- cide. She, as would be expected, de- sired to see the man and a communica- tion to that effect was sent. He was game, and arrived on Saturday. He came, he saw, but horrors me! he did not conquor. She was shy, keeping her “sauri” over her face and standing with head downcast. She answered all ques- tions in a whisper although at other times she has plenty of “gib” let me tell you, and has had to be scolded more for loud talking than any other girl here. Well, at last she told him she was will- ing and he went away. He had scarcely gone until she came saying she had changed her mind. Then what to do we did not know; Miss McL. talked with her and. after many questions on her side, the fair bride-to-be said yes. The groom then came along bringing presents—a bottle of cheap perfume, a kerchief, (mans’ size) a gold ring, and three rupees ($1.00) for sweets, and yes- terday (Sunday) the “bans” were pub- lished for the first time in the Presby- terian church here. Today the groom came to ask if he might see his “fiance.” They will be married in three weeks; “bans” must be published three times. We will give them a tea, so you see how easy all this is arranged here—no court- ing, no love-making, just the making up of your mind and going off. There is so little difference here from week to week that when, like last week, a nice thing occurred I had to exclaim. It was this: Some time ago met a very nice woman and although she was not in “perlite” society I liked her and so when she came and asked me to do a favor for her—to go to see a sick woman—I agreed. Well, the poor woman was old and very ill and most terrifically cranky; “no, she would not go to the hospital; no, she ‘riso’ a butcher, (that meant Dr. Meek) etc, so after I had for two days vainly tried to coax her into going to the hos- pital, or taking medicine, I gave it up and sent for the civil surgeon and to- gether—well, the poor lady died. She was evidently a miser as she had some very pretty gowns and very beautiful furniture, yet lived in horrible squallor. I saw three gorgeous tables standing near, covered with dust and mud inches deep and so I remarked to the woman who had called me, “when those tables are sold I would like to know.” (Every- thing goes to auction here.) When they asked my bill I said “nothing” and then I was presented with the tables, at least two of them. They are beautiful black, hand-carved wall tables that do make the front room here look very nice. If they were in better condition I might be tempted to take them home, but as it is they will remain in Jhansi. Tonight the sky is full of clouds and as you know that means no wind, the heat is rather horrid, close and stuffy and we | © all wish it would rain. However, some of the trees must have come from your climate, for having stood bare the past four or five months, now, when it is so hot that it seems as though nice, tender green things would cook, they are com. ‘ing into first leaf (April 20th) and the or is redolent with the perfume of the blossoms. | I remarked the other day that I would i sure commit suicide if I was a “pishti” iin this country at this time. Ours start | to water the flowers about 5.30 a. m. and 'by ten o'clock they are withered and | hang as though scalded. A second water- | ing takes place from three to four o'clock { in the afternoon, and yet one only hopes to keep them from dying until the rains come again. It seems such a hopeless task. You might keep on perpetually and yet if that great “ball of fire” would send down one or two little kisses all your puny mans’ endeavor would go up in a wink. Tonight my bed was taken clear out onto the front walk to see if even a breath of air might save me from again thinking I was about to be cremated, as has happened the last two nights. Now don’t think it really is so hot; it’s only that it came on rather suddenly, and in- sists upon getting warmer each day, and there is little else to talk about, so you drink tall glasses of bottled gingerade, or lemonade and complain about the heat, and when you truly are busy you forget all about it and just do the same as you would at home. The night in the open was very de- lightful; so nice and cool that I had to pull up a blanket toward morning, and now the blind boy who makes our beds is taking down my netting preparatory to carrying the bed back into my room. I was just wondering how I would sleep when I am no longer draped in a volum- inous net; it certainly will seem as though I ought to put on my clothes in- stead. 3 Did I tell you I was invited to a house for breakfast the other morning and there I had the first cup of good coffee I have tasted in India. Upon inquiring I was told, “we buy the beans in the ba- zaar and have the coffee made in an American percolator,” and it tasted like it; not the horrible three-quarter chicory stuff one buys put up at the English shops. History repeats itself, so we are told, and in proof of it I was awakened this morning before 4.30 by the call to prayer of the Musselman. Just now small-pox is very prevalent all over this place; no plague, fortunately, but everywhere one goes you find a scarred small-pox child, or one covered with sores, and so the Hin- dus are doing “puja,” offering food and flowers on their temples and shrines and the Mohammedans are putting forth ex- tra efforts at prayer to stamp out the dis- ease, but none are taking the precautions of quarantine and only the favored few are willing to be vaccinated, so you see it will scarcely stop until all the inhabit- ants take the disease; and in the mean- time we will have to be careful not to contract it ourselves. Today the Hindu worshippers have all collected at what is known as the “five wells” and they are having a general praying time. I was in the city but unfortunately forgot about the “mala” so missed seeing a most in- teresting sight. I have just come from Dr. W’s, where we were invited to have “ice cream and a sing.” They have a very good gramo- phone and their records are excellent; the chairs were taken out of doors on a side terrace overlooking the jungle and the moon being just about full, you can imagine how fine it all was as a back- ground to “The Lost Chord,” “Flow Gen- tly Sweet Afton,” etc., sung by a beauti- ful male voice. (Continued next week.) The Game of Rain and Sup. Two goals are chosen in this game. One child is “it” and stands between the two goals. The rest of the children are divided equally into two parties, and each party has a goal. One party is called Rain and the other Sun. When the leader, who stands between the goals, calls out “Rain,” the “Rain” party must run over to the “Sun” goal, each child trying of course to avoid being caught by the one who is in the center. If the leader calls “Sun,” the “Sun” party must run to the “Rain” goal, also trying to avoid being caught. Of course each child must remember whether he is a “raindrop” or a “sunbeam” in order to know when to run. No child can stay “on goal” after the call to run comes; if he does, it is the same as if he were caught. If the leader calls “April,” both “Rain” and “Sun” parties run at the same time, each tothe opposite goal. This is a splendid time for the leader to catch someone, for the players are quite sure to get mixed up and confused. Any child who is caught must help catch the others, and the game goes on until “Rain” and “Sun” have all been caught. The first child eaught, no matter on which side he is, becomes “it” for the next game.—Farm and Fireside. A Natural Cake of Soap. An odd and useful plant of our Pacific coast . is the soaproot. The grasslike, crinkled leaves appear close to the ground in the spring and are known to every California country dweller. They grow from a deep-rooted bulb incased in coarse fiber. If the fiber is stripped off and the onion-like bulb, crushed between the hands, is rubbed in water as one uses a cake of soap, a plentiful lather results, as cleansing as any manufactured soap.— St. Nicholas. : : Inefficient. The young man approached the magnate, resolution gleaming in his yes. “While I was calling on your daughter last night, sir,” he said, “your dog growl- ed at me.” “Did he bite you?” “No, sir; only growled.” * “Humph! Then I'll have to get anoth- er. Confound these dealers’ guar- antees!” Salt. Lawns Easily Cleared of Dandelions by | Eskimo Children are Never Punished. i i | I Washington, D. C., May 16.—The best : way to kill individual dandelion plants is to cut off their tops and put about a thimbleful of salt on the surface of each exposed root. This will kill most of them. As salt, if generally applied, ruins soil, it should be used sparingly and ap- : plied only to the root-tops of the dande- lions. The department of agriculture for some time has been testing various poi- sons to discover the most efficient means of eradicating this troublesome weed from lawns, but, although others have been found satisfactory, common salt is best for general use, as there is no dan- ger accompanying its application. The department’s specialists say that much effort is wasted in merely cutting off the dandelion top without applying some poison tothe root that remains. The dandelion has a tap root that grows deep into the soil, and cutting off the plant merely encourages the dandelion to come up in a thicker growth. The time to eradicate dandelions is in the spring, before the plants have had time to form seed. The seed spreads rapidly, blown by the wind. The blos- soms should be close mown before they have gone to seed and salt should then be applied to each root. A man may be very diligent in caring for his own lawn and yet have seeds blown in from neigh- boring lawns. This is of such importance to those desiring fine lawns that it might be made a matter for community action. GRASS CAN CROWD THEM OUT. If the lawn is very full of this weed it is too tedious a process to treat each plant by the salt process. In this case two possible methods cf eradication may be recommended. The first method is to thicken the stand of grass to tend to crowd out the dandelion. The grass should be put into a vigorous condition by top dressing with well-rotted manure or fertilizer in the fall, and by reseeding in thin places. The second method, ad- vised in extreme instances, is to start all over again. Plow up the lawn first, or spade it up ——————— When a Mackenzie Eskimo dies the! body is taken out, the same day that the - death occurs, to the top of some neigh- boring hill and covered with a pile of drift logs, but the soul (nappan) remains in the house where the death occurred : for four days if it is a man, and for five days if it is a woman, writes F. Ste- i fansson, the Arctic explorer, in Harper's, i in describing the beliefs of the Eskimo. | At the end of that time a ceremony is : performed by means of which the spirit is induced to leave the house and go up ito the grave, where it remains with the body, waiting for the next child in the community to be born. : When a child is born it comes into the world with a soul of its own (nappan), but this soul is inexperienced, foolish and feeble as a child is and looks. It is evi- dent, therefore, that the child needs a more experienced and wiser soul than its own to do the thinking for it and take care of it. Accordingly the mother, as soon as she can after the birth of the child, pronounces a magic formula to summon from the grave the waiting soul of the dead to become the guardian soul of the new-born child, or its atka, as they express it. Let us suppose that the dead person was a wise old man by the name of John. which may be roughly translated as fol- lows: “Soul of John, come here, come here; be my child’s guardian! Soul of John, come here, come here; be my child’s guardian!”’ (Most magic formulas among the Eskimos must be repeated twice.) When the soul of John, waiting at the grave, hears the summons of the mother, it comes and enters the child. From that time on it becomes the business of this acquired soul not only to do the thinking for the child, but to help in every way to keep it strong and healthy. The spirit of John not only teaches the talk it really is the soul of John which talks to you and not the inborn soul of the child. The child, therefore, speaks | with all the acquired wisdom which John if the area is small. A generous amount , accumulated in his long life, plus the of well-rotted manure should then be | higher wisdom which comes only after worked into the soil, but not fresh ma- | death. Evidently, therefore, the child is nure, for that is full of weed seeds ready to germinate. In case manure be not available commercial fertilizers may be used. Many lawn soils are in need of lime and it is often a wise plan to use it, especially if white clover is to be sown. After plowing the land should be har- rowed or raked frequently toreduce it to a good seed-bed condition. This will en- courage the early germination of weed seeds, with the subsequent extermination of the seedings. Thorough cultivation at this period will destroy the dandelion plants, both those that come from roots and seeds. After following either of these two plans the lawn should be maintained in good condition by careful mowing, rolling and watering. PLANTAIN ANOTHER NUISANCE. Spraying with iron sulphate solution to kill dandelions without killing the grass is not recommended by the de- partment, although it has been tried by some who consider it successful. Ex- periments do not seem to establish it as a practical method. The dandelion is not a native American plant, having been introduced from Eu- rope several centuries ago. It first was introduced in the east and has spread westward with emigration. The weed is common all over Europe, and has gone into other lands with settlers from the older country, always being found near the communities of man. The name “dandelion” is said to come from the French, “dent de lion,” which means tooth of lion and refers to the tooth- shaped edges of the leaf of the plant. Another weed that injures the beauty of many lawns is the plantain, of which there are two varieties—the buckhorn, or rib grass, and the common, or broad leaf. The same methods that apply to eradicating the dandelion apply to the plantain, except the method of poisoning the individual plant. Instead of cutting off the top and sprinkling the root with salt, as is done in the case of the dan- delion, the individual plantain may best be removed by pulling up by the root after a heavy rain, when the ground is wet. The plantain does not offer a diffi- cult problem, as the roots are pulled up readily, even from clay soil, after a heavy rain. Electric Cooking Grows. Electric cooking will be exclusively employed in a new 18-suite apartment house being built at Worcester, Mass., says the Electrical World. The building will not contain a single foot of gas piping, and the only coal bin will be utilized by the central steam- heating boiler. In the face of a 75-cent gas rate and sharp competition by the local gas company, 18 No. 33 electric ranges will be installed and electricity will be supplied by the local lighting com- pany at its regular heating rates, which are established on a sliding scale, start- ing at 10 cents per kilowatt-hour and working rapidly downward with increas- ing consumption. The suites are of four and five rooms and are to be equipped with electric vacuum cleaner service and a central motor-driven refrigerating plant. The apartments are situated in the fashion- able West Side district, and their equip- ment for electric cooking follows .a thor- ough trial of a similar range for several months in the home of the builder. Much local interest has been aroused in the in- stallation, and many inquiries are being received at the office of the central sta- tion as a result of the victory of the elec- tric range over its competitors. New York Has New Organization for Health Protection. A children’s health league has been or- ganized in New York by Mrs. Julian Heath, president of the Houswives’ ague. Members of the new organization are asked to pledge themselves to seven reg- ulations. They must agree to learn all about the adulteration of sweets; what clean food means; to find out where clean candy, soda water, ice cream and food can be bought; to refuse all drinks cor- taining stimulants; to eat ice cream and candy oniy from clean dishes or contain- ers; to refuse all food that has not been protected properly from flies, dust and cinders; and to avoid all handling of foodstuffs. ——When you can get the best as cheap as you can get the cheapest, why don’t you do it. Get the WATCHMAN and you are sure you have it. the wisest person in the family or in the community, and its opinions should be listened to accordingly. What it says and does may seem foolish to you, but that is mere seeming, and in reality the child is wise beyond your comprehension. John must, therefore, be propitiated at every cost, and to deliberately offend him would be in fact equivalent to desir- ing the child’s misfortune or death and would be so construed by.the community, so that a man is restrained from for- bidding his child or punishing it, not only by his own interest in the child’s wel- fare, but also by the fear of public opin- ion; because if he began to forbid his child or to punish it he would at once become known to the community as a cruel and inhuman father, careless of the welfare of his child. Paper from Balsam Fir. A recent bulletin issued by the United States Department of Agriculture states that the balsam fir, a tree little used in paper manufacturing, has begun to take the place of spruce, the wood now most in demand for paper making. The chief objection to balsam fir is that it is full of pith, which destroys the machinery used in crushing the wood. A method of tak- ing the pith out by soaking the wood in water has been successfully tried out, according to the bulletin, which states that from 10 to 25 per cent. of balsam can be used to ground pulp without low- ering the grade of paper produced. Balsam fir is little used on the Pacific coast, though there are large quantities of it growing on the Cascade and Rocky Mountains. It is a small tree compared to the gigantic Douglas fir, which is one of the principal trees used by lumber manufacturers. Another objection to the balsam fir is the extreme high altitudes at which it grows, as it seldom flourishes below the 5000-foot level. A Government report states that in the Rainier national forest, the balsam fir grows from the 5500- foot level to the timberline. There are no logging firms operating at this altitude at the present time. : Balsam fir is frequently confused with the small growth of the Douglas fir, sev- eral local lumber dealers stating that they believed it to be the same tree, while others declared that it did not grow in the West to any extent. The Govern- ment report, before mentioned, states positively that it is found in large quan- tities in the West and is a separate spe- cies of tree. At present it is little used in lumber manufacturing. Bubonic Plague in Ecuador. With the bubonic plague just 48 hours away from the city of Panama in the | Ecuadorean port of Manta, the health of- ficers of the canal zone are taking no chances of infection from that quarter, and daily there is a vigorous rat hunt under governmental auspices in the an- cient Isthmiam city. The health officer has the rats carefully examined for traces of the plague and is having the hearty co-operation of the other authori- ties of Panama and even the property owners. Last month 129 structures were con- demned and required to be removed or altered so that they would not shelter rats in the walls or under the floors. The building regulations now reguire single crete. A $25,000.00 Gift. In the past year it has cost Dr. Pierce over $25,000.00 (exclusive of postage) to give away copies of The People’s Com- mon Sense Medical Adviser. This book containing 1008 pages and over 700 illus- trations should be in every family. It answers the unspoken questions of young men and women. It points the path to healthy, happy life. It is sent free on receipt of stampsto defray expense of mailing only. Send 21 one-cent stamps for book in paper binding, or 31 stamps in cloth. Address Dr. V. M. Pierce, Buffalo, N. Y. Selfishness. ro Selfishness is humanity's paramount sin. It overshadows every other. Ab- sorbed in self, men and women forget that lonely, unhappy beings are all about —or, remembering it, remember too late. Life is lonely at its best. Do not forget those who are without human companion- ship. : -——For high class Job Work come to The mother then pronounces the formula | child to talk, but after the child learns to | walls and flooring laid directly on con- The Smile of Mona Lisa. Leonardo da Vinci's immortal portrait masterpiece is the Mona Lisa—the wom- an with the smile. It is a smile that! never loses its charm. It almost seems to wear a different expression each time you look at it. But it is always there. It ‘ never comes off. ‘It has made the Mona Lisa the most famous portrait in the world. Da Vinci worked for four years on this portrait of the beautiful wife of Francesco del Giocondo, magistrate and prior of Florence. For years it hung in the Louvre Gallery, Paris, admired by millions. Two years ago it mysteriously disappeared. Now the thief, an Italian, | and former attache of the Louvre, has : produced the famous painting, claiming - his object was patriotic—to return it to . Florence, its true home. In the Uffizi | Gallery a week ago Sunday thirty thous- ; and people looked in rapture upon the { famous Neapolitan lady with the smile. The painting will be returned by the Italian authorities to Paris, and will again | recline on its accustomed wall at the i Louvre. A part of the time during her | exile, the Mona was carried in the false i bottom of a trunk, a part of the time at- tached to the back of a cheap painting; in the escapade her cheek received a ' slight scratch; but the smile has contin- | ued serene through all vicissitudes of time, travel, hardship, loss and restora- tion. : Still she is known to the whole world as the lady with the smile. Why not be the Mona Lisa for the coming year? Find your smile and keep it radiant. You think it seemingly small service. But there you are wrong. It is a great service, like that of the sunshine. Your smile may gladden the earth and bring unknown cheer to unguessed sor- row and loneliness. It is said that $5,- 000,000 has been offered for this portrait. You cannot put in money terms the val- ue of a life that keeps sweet and pours out its sunshine to the world. ic is Chris- tian to smile. “Be of good cheer” are among the parting words of Jesus. “Be of good cheer, I have overcome the world.” Why not think of the smile of Mona Lisa, and make it into the year’s resolu- | tlon? Let not your heart be troubled. .Be of good cheer. Keep your heart { young. Be always sweet. Walk on the { sunny side of the street. Look on the : bright side of things. Look for the best in every one. Talk only of the good in others. Think of the things that are lofty and true. Hold fast to hope. Keep up with faith. Walk side by side with love. Lend a hand, and fight with all your might for what helps another in the battle of our common life—and in it all keep patient, serene—just smile. Is there a secret one may find to make such a life possible? A Handy Tree. Did you ever hear of a thread-and- needle tree? It must be rather a handy tree to have growing in the back yard, especially when there are boys in the ‘house with buttons coming off about every other minute. This strange tree grows in nearly all tropical countries, and in some places nearer home where the climate is warm. It gets its name by which we know it from the curious formation of its leaves. At the tip of the leaf there is a sharp thorn, which is the needle. If you grasp it firmly and pull it out, there you are with a needle already threaded for your sewing. This fiber thread is very strong and the Mexicans use it for weaving a coarse kind of cloth, as well as for sew- ing. The leaves of the tree they use for roofing their houses, instead of tiles, and a fine roof it makes them, strong and water-proof—just the sort of roof they need when the rain comes down in sheets.— The Young Evangelist. Determination Wins. Men foreordained to be great are the men who make circumstances. . They never wait for them. They walk in the path no man kas hewn out. They build their own road. Even fate will stand back when she meets the man who laughs at Hr frown. De- termination will conquer. It must. Force is the lever which moves the world. “I will” can make the very mountains come unto you.—New York Weekly. Dancing Once Part of Worship. We read in the “Book of the Dead,” which contains the papyri of Egypt's most ancient seers and scholars, that dancing was a part of Egyptian wor- ship. In fact, the hieroglyphics them- selves, denoting adoration, triumph after battle, gloom at the death of a monarch or a high priest, were often figures of men or women in dancing postures. Quite Reasonable. “So you don’t call on Miss Bute any more. Quarreled?”’ “Well, I told her I prferred to have her kiss me before and not after she kissed her pet dog.” “And what did she say?” “She said I evidently forgot that the dog might have his preference, too.”— Boston Transcript. Need for Special Breed. Above and about Hudson bay there are enormous deposits of copper, gold, and silver, but only an Indian can live there. He has grown up there as a polar bear grows up amid ice. It is thought a special breed of Indian and Chinese might meet the needs. Graham Bread.—Two and one-half cup- fuls of sour milk, one-half cupful of sugar, one tablespoonful molasses, two teaspoonfuls, of soda, three cupfuls of graham flour, one cupful of wheat flour, butter the size of an egg, melted. Let rise three quarters of an hour. Bake one hour in moderate oven. Frankness Itself. The Breezy One—I say, old man, if you'll let me have the loan of $20 I'll be eternally indebted to you.—Puck. ——From spruce wood pulp a French inventor has made a fabric resembling cotton and equally capable of bleaching and dyeing. — American chewing gum is now the WATCHMAN Office. being sold in all large cities in Germany. FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN DAILY THOUGHT. Kind hearts are the gardens, Kind thoughts are the roots, Kind words are the blossoms, Kind deeds are the fruits. Dresses are limited in number, for the average purse cannot meet very many changes in complete costumes, but hats can be more numerous if you can trim them yourself. Many shapes can be picked up at special prices and trimmed to suit the occasions; if the straw be serviceable, one hat will respond to sev- eral treatments. There are some new notes in millinery that will helf the wom- an at home to sound the important phrases in the song. The lacquered ribbons that have the stove-polish finish are in great demand still. The French name for this finish is “nire.’’ This type of ribbon is used to trim the shiny straw hats that have come upon us. The trimming is generally in high bows or wired loops. Moires are also favorites. In black and colors they are staple goods and will take the wearers through the summer with great success. In fancy ribbons the Roman stripes are favored, and for chin straps and bows on the plateau shapes the velvet ribbons in black and colors are in demand. Wings are the favorite feather trim- ming. Small wings in pointed shapes are used in clusters around the crowns of hats. Other flat wings are placed on the under surface of the brims and form unusual facings for afternoon hats. Long pointed wings are placed at extreme and odd angles. The black hat appeals to womankind because of its practical value. It comes in shiny straw and in fine hemp and is trimmed with ribbon, wings and flowers. The small shapes are most in demand. Modified sailor shapes are the rage in Paris. Other hats for morning suits are high crowned, with narrow brims and have very simple trimming in the form of bands of ribbon, with a contrasting pip- ing at the upper edge. When the afternoon hats of the pictur- esque type are considered, the story is endless. The bandeau hat is the hint of Watteau that has been accepted with- out a murmur. All tilts and trimmings are used, and it is generally becoming on the head of the young woman. The “bird’s nest” hat is a quaint modi- fication of the Watteau idea. It has a broad band of ribbon and a double rim of black lace that has been stiffened to a straw-like consistency. A chin strap ties this excuse for a hat under the chin. The hat is light in weight and is very suitable for garden parties, afternoon strolls at the seaside or receptions. It should never be worn with tailored suits or morning dresses. The all-white hat for warm days is go- ing to have a great vogue. Over in Paris there is a reversion of the black idea in millinery, and the white hat has come to the rescue. White wheat, wings, ribbon, mousseline roses and patent leather are the favored trimmings. And so the story goes. It will ever hold the interest of women. The art of being chic is entirely sum- med up in the few words, “Attention to detail.” It is here that the French woman ex- cels. The American woman who has acquir- ed it will tell you thatshe will take long- er, perhaps, to settle a collar or fasten a tie than another woman will to put on a whole gown. There is only one way of wearing things —the right way. ! Womankind can definitely be divided into two classes—women who dress and the women who merely clothe them- selves. The former are those who have the happy knack of putting on their clothes with just the small finishing touch that makes for perfection. Costly or wonderful of style or mater- ials their garments need not be, for what- ever it is, plain or elaborate, high priced or inexpensive, they always succeed in looking well turned out, well finished and “chic” to the least little item. The average American woman today most certainly dresses well. One realizes that the subtle art of “fin- ish” is far more widespread than former- ly, and that today there are few women who do not achieve an attractive appear- ance. Some women still make the mistake of thinking that elaborateness of construc- tion and a general “fussy” effect stand for good dressing, but most now fully understand the value of simplicity—that chic simplicity that is the most elusive of all qualities to obtain, and that is in itself a guarantee of good taste and perfec- tion. At the present moment the cape pic- turesque and eminently practical gar- ment may be said to rule the world of fashion. It is to be seen in many differ- ent guises. ARE We have a voluminous cape which is almost exactly like the famous “capa” of the Spaniards. We have flowing military capes and long cloaks, equally flowing, which might have been copied from the stately Ronan cape of the priests. And then we have in our midst a fas- cinating little circular mantle which is neither long nor short. It is amazingly attractive in some such material as navy blue taffetas with lin- ings of japonica-pink charmeuse, or in white liberty cashmere with linings of black satin and a directoire collar in chinchilla. The choice is wide; the cape may be half-length, three-quarter length or quite long. It must be voluminous, and it must be worn with a jaunty air which recalls, again, the Spaniard of velvet eyes and olive skin. Why did your last year’s silk split the crack? Because it was adulterated. You might have tested it easily before purchasing and saved both money and worry. A piece of silk and a match are all you need for the test. Light the match and apply it to the fabric. If it holds its shape the silk is adulterated with some of the various minerals so used. If it runs together in a puffy mass the silk is pure. This is one of the tests given in the new correspondence course in fabrics offered by the extension division of the University of Wisconsin. ——“Did you come back on an all- steel train?” “When the waiters and porters finished plucking me I felt sure that it was.” »
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers