Beri ata Bellefonte, Pa., April 8, 1898. a MAJOR HASTINGS LETTER. His Visit to Spain—Barcelona. The People—Their Hatred of Americans Ete. Special correspondence to the Warcumax. Coming from Palma in Majorca, I reached Barcelona early in last December, and with the exception of two weeks in Portugal, I spent most of my time in Spain, conversing with representatives of all classes, and studying newspapers of all kinds. . Naturally to one of American birth, I particularly sought Spanish ideas of Cuban affairs and the attitude of the United States relating thereto. My wanderings were shared by my friend William Rennyson, who was also my excellent companion in Egypt and Pal- estine. Barcelona occasions a strange first im- pression to the mind. Its aspect does not fit in with the run of cities in its own land. I take leave to designate it as the least Spanish of Spain’s cities. It is an exam- ple of the Western Mediterranean towns, say after the style of Marseilles. Its as- pect does not lack most distinguishing points. There are large edifices, long streets, more modern in character, squares of uniformity, stupendous warehouses, more capacious than stores, every conceiva- ble kind of cafes, brilliant theatres and perpetual procession of conveyances, rich and poor, fashionable and homely, from the Port to the centre of the City. The beautiful, spreading, arrow-like street, La Rambla shaded by two mag- nificent rows of trees, cuts Barcelona into almost equal portions. This thor- oughfare is quite a fashionable and popular resort, for much of itis occupied every morning as a flower-market, and in this bewitching guise it is the elysium of the beau monde and the alluring Manolas, who flirt with their really eloquent fans and suggestively salute your elbows, of course without an intention, as they grace- fully glide hither and thither. Verily here the associations are pretty and perilous. A continuation of the Rambla is the semi-suburban street, El Paseo de Gracia, inhabited principally by rich, retired mer- chants and refugees from Cuba, who affect magnificent villas of Moorish architecture lining the sea-shore, and conspicuous on a high-terraced rampart. Barcelona is a prosperous manufacturing city, politically so notorious for Socialism and Nihilism that these twin disturbants have to be severely kept in check by a strong garrison, telling its own story to the sans-culottes, and the stealthy thrower of the murderous homb. Barcelona was blessed by the benign command of ‘‘Butcher’”’ Weyler before he was ordered on his sanguinary mission to Cuba, and it monopolizes the exports and imports of Spain. It is the chief city of Catalonia, which is the leading manufac- turing province of the entire nation. ; In the North Protectionists prevail, and a continuous political warfare is waged with Madrid and the South for protective legislation. The peasants attract you by their pictur- esque costumes. Taste is triumphant, ar- tistic effect perfect, almost independent of means and education, as nature dictates. Some peasants are dressed from head to foot in black velvet, a striped shawl of bright colors is thrown gracefully over the shoulders, and there may be a fez falling like the Prygian bonnet on to the sides and back. White canvas shoes, called alparga- tas, are worn, the soles being of interwoven cords, and fastened with red or black rib- bons crossed at the ankles and enabling them to walk stealthily, noiselessly as a cat. These shoes are useful and cheap. Visiting the cathedral, we met a battal- ion of infantry marching to mass in the large Eglesia (church) facing our hotel. The uniform of these troops is almost like that of the French soldiers, including red trousers, blue-grey coats and hunting caps. They had alpargatas and proceeded without noise. Their youth was striking, stature low, complexion brown, hodies thin ; all looked clean, steps were short, quick, graceful, with pride in their erect bearing and martial air. The cathedral of Barcelona is grand and to be classed with the best churches of Spain. Very interesting is the tomb of St. Eulalia, besides which, many princes and archbishops are buried there, A suggestive object is a cross from one of the ships engaged in the battle of Le- panto uninjured by the shower of shots fall- ing around it, and away overhead in the apex of the arch is suspended a model of that ship, oar-rigged and used by San Juan of Austria in fighting the Turks. There is also an enormous head of a Saracen, hide- ous in look, with a gigantic, gaping, grim- acing mouth, from which in the great fies- tas, bonbons fall to the happy children” be- low. The other monuments are unimportant. There are two palaces used by the govern- ment as offices ; one is called Cusa de Depu- tacion, and the other Casa Consistorial. These palace offices are of the 14th and 16th centuries respectively ; they are vast piles without interest. There is also a palace of the Inquisicion of dark repute, (Spain the land of its birth), and it retains the titles and terrible souvenirs of those awful days when religious persecution was paramount. Amusement is not neglected, ior there is a circus, holding ten thousand people for the peculiar Spanizh recreation, las corri- dos de Toros, the bull fight, which seems as essential to a Spaniard as the air. Somewhat different ideas are suggested by the cemetery which we visited. It is outside Barcelona, in a vast plain. and looks like a garden. When in God’s Acre the silent state is like Pompeii, as it is laid out in long, deserted streets, with high walls each side. The dead are placed in compartments in the walls, in layers and rows, like drawers in a drug store. Every space containing a coffin is labelled with name of deceased. Most compart- ments have a cage-like enclosure of iron in front in which are placed little things which were dear to the departed, in some instances indicating the profession or trade followed, portraits, altars, lace, artificial flowers, ribbons, collars, toys, books, im- ages being general. I saw a tress of hair which had belonged to a young girl, with a card attached bearing the words, “Nuestra Querida’ (Our Darling). I hunted up my old professor who taught me the rudiments of colloquial Spanish in 1882, at whicl: historic period I spent six months in Spain, and with him and Renny- son we went to the leading cafes and clubs. The cafes in Barcelona, like most of such places in Spain, consist of one large hall, ornamented with oil paintings, frescoes and mirrors galore, every inch of space available being used for table room. These cafes are always crowded, the evening see- all seats cccupied, chairs being at a pre- mium. At nearly every table are five or six caballeros, patronizing cigarillos and dominoes, the latter being the favorite game in Spain, for from morning to mid- night the click, click is so loud at the ta- bles that shouting is imperative to reach the ears of your neighbor. Nearly everybody takes chocolate, an ex- cellent drink, served in pigmy cups, and in such thickness the spoon will stand in it, while the heat is enough to burn the throat. A large glass of water and a cake called bollo are served with this choice liquid. The Spaniard is not a liquor drinker, but appears to possess an wnterior volcano which he is continually supplying with bebidas heladas, i. e. iced drinks. Renny- son was surprised when a hidalgo, seated at our table, before partaking of his chocolate said with a smile, a bow, and a good square look in the eye, ‘Si Usted gusta?” (Can I offer you some of mine?) The manners of the Spaniards are exquisite. I passed the cigarettes and the acquaintance developed, and my impression is that there was the suspicion of a frown when he learned I was an Americano. My professor vouched I was no American spy, explain- ing that I was a practical student of arch- «ology and philology continually cultivat- ing my favorite branches from city to city and from country to country. Our new acquaintance then lannched in- to a tirade on the war in Cuba. His words flowed like a swollen torrent, and the essence was : ‘The Americans have never ceased to give aid to the Cuban revolutionists— not openly, but secretly, practically and morally. The United States government have always been correct apparently, main- taining diplomatically a strictly neutral at- titude, but I am sure the sympathies of the people and the press have been with the rebels, to our great detriment ; the rebels have been encouraged, sustained, incited to prolong resistance. “The Cuban Insurrection lives only from the munitions of war. provisions and vol- unteers sent to Cuba by American fillibust- ers. ‘‘Canovas when Prime Minister never would listen to propositions embracing American intervention. Sagasta is actua- ted by the same sentiments, and no chief of the Spanish government dare do otherwise. Public opinion will never tolerate any in- terference by a foreign power in the affairs of Spain and her colonies. “I like the Americans, personally, very much, but we can never allow their pre- tensions to dominate all America and dic- tate to European Powers their treatment of American colonies. “To judge from the interviews and speeches of some American statesmen we must believe that your land has an abund- ance of desperados and braggarts, for their constant talk is of driving the Spaniards out of Cuba, the English out of Canada, and to make the French relinquish every foot of land they own in the New World. Your newspapers call them jingoes—)he pronounced the word hin-go-es, with the guttural Spanish jota. ) “I have always believed the Americans are a serious, practical people, that they will come to an amicable understanding with us ; that we shall mutually arrange a favorable commercial treaty, and that in reciprocation, Americans would preserve strict neutrality and prevent the formation and departure of filibustering expeditions to Cuba. ‘‘As to war between the United States and Cuba. I don’t believe it for a moment. No one can make me believe that sensible people like" the Americans would seek to indulge in such an adventure. “War with us would mean the ruin of your maritime interests for years; Spain has an excellent navy ; she could give let- ters of marque to her many ship-builders of the Mediterranean and the ocean, fill the seas with her corsairs, and ruin American commerce. ‘Our men-of-war could burn New York, Philadelphia and Baltimore by throwing shells into the hearts of those cities. As to Cuba, the United States would have to mobilize 400,000 or 500,000 men, and even then all their attempts to land there would be useless for there are 200,000 regular troops in Cuba, Havana is impregnable and we can send vast re-inforcements, if neces- sary. You Americans had better look twice before you leap. He was getting fiery hot, and I could see from the faces and gestures of the Cab- allerous at the adjoining tables that they were neglecting their dominoes, were be- coming interested in his speech, and that unpleasant consequences might follow an unwise extension of the talk. Rennyson, who does not understand Spanish, was nudging my knee. making sinister gestures, and so I ended the epi- sode by telling the Cubaphile that I was no politician, that I had not been in Amer- ica for several months, and that all the United States desired was a speedy end to the Cuban difficulty. My professor told me that he was a large manufacturer of generos—silk and cotton fabrics—and that my hot-headed “friend’’ had suffered heavy depression in orders because of Cuban hostilities. I was not there to discuss, to quarrel, but to ascertain the true condition of things. Prudence! It is a remarkable fact that nine-tenths of the revolutions in Spain break out in the North, and in the majority of cases first see light in Catalonia. The principal fort at Barcelona, Mont Suich (Jews' Mountain), is the place of incarceration of the anarchist prisoners, and here they were tortured so that they said anything in order to escape the rack, about which the European newspapers published harrowing reports for months. The inquisicion may be said to have end- ed with the assassination of Canovas del Castillo last summer. Then the Queen Regent interferred and had the tor- tured prisoners released or humanely treated. The Catalonians are a mixture of Basque, Italian and Castillian ; they speak a horrible, ear offending dialect, which, however, has its own literature ; they are a laborous and hard headed race, who estimate themselves as definitely superior to the other Spaniards, whom they despise as ‘‘guitar players.” They call all other Spaniards ‘‘Andalusians’’—a word which they also use to designate a troubadour, a trifler, a poet a painter, loafer, tramp ! We went to the theatre El Liceo where Ll Cid was being played. After the Scala in Milan, it is the largest theatre in Europe. It is draped in lugubrious black. As in all garrison towns, there was a large num- ber of brilliantly uniformed officers pres- ent. To see the hermosas senoritas, with sparkling diamonds in bewildering pro- fusion, was scarcely to credit the sorry fact that Spain was in the midst of terrible wars which well-nigh exhausted her re- sources and decimated the flower of her youth in the swamps of Cuba and the Phillipines. The prompter speaks so loudly with such wonderful distinctnsss that you hear the play twice, though you pay?but once, and the actors usnally look at the prompter for most of their lines. In the corridors itis like a Stock Ex- change, many of those who ostensibly go to the theatre to amuse themselves and rest, are buying, selling, speculating, and there is a continual going and coming of brokers, clerks and messenger boys. Buying our tickets the next morning for Madrid, we thus helped to pay the cost of the war in Cuba, for every railway ticket in Spain is taxed ten per cent. Less than an hour’s run from Barcelona comes in sight the strangest, most weirdly- formed mountain I have ever seen or read about—Montserrata. It isa collection of immense cones, one beside the other, one surmounting another, in bewildering promiscuity, making al- together one overwhelming, gigantic cone composed of thousands of smaller ones. The highest points are arid and inaccessible as a church steeple, near the base the points are covered ‘with pine, oak and mulberry trees. Here and there are deep abysmal gorges and awe-inspiring precipices. What makes this mighty mountain all the more remark- able is that it stands isolated like a mono- lith on a plain ! Who knows but it is a for- gotten workshop of the Great Architect when fabricating the Giant’s Causeway. A Benedictine convent is situated in one of the gorges, to which holy spot the guide book says 50,000 pilgrims come annually. The time to study this singular mountain was all too short, but Rennyson insisted that we should go straight'to” Madrid, and suggested that we register at the hotel as from Berlin. The second class cars in Spain have no compartments, so you can see everybody in them. Our car was nearly always full, forty persons, men, women and children : priests, monks, servants, army officers, merchants, commercial travelers, actors, actresses, secret police. We had leisure for study, meditation and prayer. All the nen and some of the women smoked. The cigarette in Spain takes the place of a letter of introduction. The first thing a traveler in Spain does is to hand around the cigaril- los to all his neighbors, acceptance is im- perative, rejection is considered impolite. The Spaniard is full of winning, polite phrases, and if you should happen to say to him that you admire his cigarette case, his cane or his wife, the object of admira- tion is offered you with the phrase, “a la disposicion de Usted.’ ‘““You have a very handsome ring’’ (says a beautiful brilliant worth $1,000) he slips the ring off his finger and hands it to you without hesitancy. This liberality, however, must not be re- garded as earnest. He knows that you as a well-bred gentleman cannot, will not re- before. It would be difficult to invent anything more fantastic ; the good-natured priests, however, have digniged, tranquil faces, and go about as if their consciences were perfectly easy in regard to the shape of their hats and the attention they secure | 3 1 1 still many feet deep in the mountains and yin all the Teton region. from strangers. Our neighbors offered us bread, sardines, wine and fruit from their provisions, with courteous phrase Gusta Usted comes (eat) conmigo, and, their polite formalites ac- complished, and ate like ogres and drank out of something which looked like a blad- der. This “‘vessel’”’ they hold with both hands at some distance from the mouth, and then squeezing it deftly squirt a stream of wine down their throats. Rennyson tried it and almost choked himself. We saw at the stations peasants loading wine for shipment to Madrid, in goat skins which looked like loathsome, water soaked dead animals. Riding along these dusty, interminable plains we saw big, sad-eyed oxen drawing the fabled cart, the driver asleep in his mantle ; brigandish looking, peasants, with carabine strung on the saddle, cuchillo (knife) in the belt sombrero pulled down over the eyes ; long files of donkeys, half of the body shaven, loaded with wine in goat-skins ; straw or faggots strapped fast with thongs ; market places covered with mules and donkeys picturesquely harnessed and decorated with tassels, rosettes, rib- bons and feathers ; and fierce-looking men dressed like masqueraders, with navajas (razors) or cuchillos conspicuous in their belts. Shunted at a station somewhere in Cas- tile, waiting for a train to pass, we heard a strange, horrible noise. a cross between the filing of a saw, skinning a live cat, and a syren fog-horn! We all sprang to the win- dows. It was only an ox-cart going hy. The driver had probably put the grease in his soup instead of on the complaining axles. The train runs through the plains of Aragon, in the valley of the Ebro, which we cross at Saragossa ; through the great, parched, desert plains, yellow sand, and gray rocks of Castile, the scene of some of the exploits of Don Quixote de la Mancha in his self-imposed task of ‘‘redressing wrongs and abuses’’ ; several hours are we in sight of the Guadarrama mountains, through Guadalajara to Madrid. ——Those who carry insurance upon their household goods and change the place of residence this spring, should not fail to promptly notify the agent and have the policy transferred to their new abode. Otherwise should a fire occur and the household goods be consumed, they can- not recover damages. { have threatened his life. The Yellowstone Park Plans for the Coming Season.—Col. Young's War- fare on the Poachers. The snow in the Yellowstone Park is Arrangements are already underway, however, that will provide a very different outlook for the tourist in the park season of 1898 from that of 1897. : { During the closed season Young has ' made life a burden to poachers, so much so | that the renegades and outlaws of the t Jackson Hole and other Wyoming districts They have been more energetically pursued and more se- verely punished than ever before. As a consequence the outlaws have gone hungry and game has got through the winter in excellent shape. Col. Young’s endeavors to have the boundaries of the park extend- ed on every side to natural rather than ar- tiflcial limits means a blow to these poach- ers worse than any other. If he is success- ful, the Jackson Hole country will cease to | be a resort for outlaws in the West, and park game can no longer be driven there in herds for slaughter. At present the sum- mits of the Tetons rise far South of the park boundaries, but hereafter they will be included, and the few men who have traveled from the park to the Tetons have many stories to tell of wonders there. These include geysers and geyser forma- tions, canons painted by nature as vividly as those of the upper Yellowstone, magnif- icent petrifactions in forest and animal life, and splendid game preserves. The remaining extensions will add to the park many features of interest. A new Fort Yellowstone will greet the tourist of 1898. The dingy walls of the old fort are giving place to a handsome and commodius structure set in the valley over against the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel at the park entrance. Probably several new hotels will be found at points of in- terest hitherto inaccessible to any travelers but the few fortunate enough to have their own vehicles. Roads will be built to these and a region opened that will length- en from five days to seven the full “arand round’’ of the park stage trip. More at- tention is to be paid to bicycle travel than ever before, and new roads and old will have facilities for this class of travel. Per- mission to operate stages has been given to transportation companies in addition to the old Park Transportation monopoly, and at least two full lines stages will be in opera- tion. Arrangements are being made for making entrances to the park at other points than Cinnabar, and it is quite likely that the monopoly always enjoyed by the Northern Pacific Railroad, the only line to cat a — g { Ee ft Zz (© a 4 nw! aw x ia 2 : = 2 sm FP — Lm ! ii ji Ne on ess 1 ® ’ [NY : ir8etis eo orig 'u —— tm ~ 2 = Sr. A re = RL = = = i ET Ee HE U.S. DYNAM [SER_VESUVIUS ~"T>> c= > tain the ring, the cane, the wife. He would after all his winning ways, be cap- able of using force to wrest his property from you, if necessary. I believe the Spaniards are the greatest smokers in the world, and yet not a stalk of tobacco is allowed to be grown in all the Kingdom. Some Spaniards smoke con- tinually all the day, and I have often seen both ladies and gentlemen smoke at table d’hote, after the soup and so on between courses. Cigars in Spanish are puros are cigarettes cigarillos. 1 was astonished at the facility with which the Spaniard rolls a cigarette. One of my neighbors, as we were jolting along—railroads in Spain and atrociously rough—reached his pocket with his left hand, fished out cigarette paper, detached the delicate leaf, dipped again, brought forth the tobacco, distributed it evenly in the paper, rolled it on his knee thus making a handsome cigarette and having used but one hand ; He told me he had obtained this facility on horse-back. The people at the stations were a per- petual study,—always something new,— to us. Some had a handkerchief in bright colors wound round the head like a turban, and allowing the straggling hair to escape above and below. Instead of the mantle, some wore blue and white striped blankets in which they had cut a hole to stick their heads through ; some wore waistbands in flash colors, black velvet breeches to the knee, white stockings and alpargatas. Spain is one eternal masquerade! Even children are so dramatically dressed, they appear as if coming from a masked ball. I made acquaintance with several priests and officers of the Spanish army, and we thrashed out the situation of Spain and Cuba again and again. 1 believe Spaniards as a rule condemn the atrocious cruelties of Weyler’s policy, but decide that it is the only way to end the war. “Ay! pobres hijos (sons) de Espana I exclaimed a fat, good-tempered priest ; that our best boys should be sent down there to be shot by guerilla “niggers,” or die of fever. To the reproaches of the of- ficers of America’s filibustering aid, I plead- ed the millions of pesetas which the Gov- ernment has spent in guarding the coast to prevent these expeditions and the money and provisions sent by Americans to the starving concentrados driven from home by the wicked Weyler. At the country stations, the typical tronbadour---beggars in abominable old rags, and with haggard, ferocious faces--- thrum their guitars and sing, then pass round the hat asking alms, “Una limosina poramor de Dios.” A Spanish priest’s hat would make a sensation at any masquerade ball. Imagine a stiff, black felt hat, at least three feet across, with the brims turned up at the sides, making a projecting roof behind and | Terrible Disaster. I Levee Breaks and a Town Flooded.—Loss of Life Esti- mated at 200—Telegraph Wires are Down. EVANSVILLE, Ind., April 3.—The levee at Shawneetown, Ill., broke this evening and the entire town is flooded from ten to twenty feet. The levee is in front of the town and the hills are in the rear. It is reported that more than 200 lives are lost. All the wires are down and. no particulars can be had. Evansville has sent two steam- boats with food and blankets. CHICAGO, April 4.—At 12:30 o'clock to- | night the operator in the Long Distance Telephone company’s office at Mount Vernon, Ind. informed the Associated Press that the estimate of the loss of life at Shawneetown was at that hour 200. Mount Vernon is but thirty miles from Shawnee- town and the information received is be- lieved to be reliable. : The operator stated that the company’s wires to the stricken city failed soon after 4 this afternoon. At that hour it was known that the dam was giving way, but it was not thought that it would £0 to pieces quickly erfough to cause loss of life. By 8 o'clock it was known in Mount Vernon that many people had been drowned, the estimate then being one hundred. A boat with blankets, flood and surgeons | was started down the river and was ex- pected to reach Shawneetown before morn- ing. Gradually the reports of loss of life increased the estimates, coming from var- ious points near the scene of the flood, showing clearly that the disaster was 'ar more serious than at first believed. Peo- ple from Mount Vernon and the surround- ing country besieged the telephone and telegraph offices frantic ‘for tidings from | relatives and friends of the flooded town. i The crowds stood all night before the | bulletin boards on which were posted the | meagre reports being received. | Declared his Innocence. i A pathetic story has come to light in connection with the death of Joseph Young, which occurred in the Eastern penitentiary three weeks ago. Young was sentenced in 1896 to five years imprisonment for poison- ing cattle in Cogan township, Lycoming county, but since his death it has been learned that the old man was entirely guiltless. He died of a broken heart. Sher- iff Rothfuss, who recently returned from the penitentiary. to which institution he he had taken a number of prisoners, says that he was informad that Young, in al- most his last breath, declared his inno- cence of the erime charged against him. Had the old man lived but a few months longer, his innocence would have been es- tablished and pardon would have fol- lowed. Subscribe for the WATCHMA N. reach the park, will be broken in a short time. The National Park is intended for some- thing besides the pleasure of the tourists who are taken through it during three summer months. One of its important purposes is to preserve from extinction some of the game animals of the West. Work in this Jine was begun almost too late to save the Buffalo, but there are now there immense herds of elk, numbering probably 20,000 head, and there are proba- bly nearly as many antelopes. Beavers, once nearly wiped out, are reappearing in the streams ; bears are too plenty for com- fort ; porcupines, foxes, lynxes, and other small game animals are very plentiful and tame. Wolves and coyotes, of course, flourish altogether too well. It is now proposed to kill off enough of the coyotes to prevent their hunting in packs and to drive them out of the park. The wolves present a problem that has not yet been solved. A number of expert trackers, hunters and game-keepers, mostly in the military ser- vice, are employed at the park. Their duty is to break up poaching. It takes not only a brave man, but a clever hunter to catch a poacher. He must know the habits of the animals as well as the poacher him- self. Many men have for years made a business of hunting on the national pre- serves, selling the horns, hides and where possible the meat also on the outskirts. A buffalo skin, formerly worth $1, is now al- most unattainable for money ; a buffalo head is worth from $250 to $500 ; elk horns bring from $25 to $100 a pair ; beaver fur is valuable, and so is the fox and lynx. The temptation for the poacher is great, for the shooting, if he can escape Col. Young's men, is easy. But this spring fresh horns and skins are very scarce in the towns near the park. Don’t Stoop When You Read. The habit of stooping over when reading or writing has a bad effect on most eyes and should be avoided, especially if one is nearsighted. When people approach the’ age of 40, the morning paper is apt to ap- pear blurred, and they complain the print- ing is getting bad. The trouble is they need glasses. If they do not get them, later on their eyes will deteriorate so rapid- ly they will be obliged to wear them all the time. On the other hand, if a person puts on glasses when the first warning of ‘‘tired eyes’’ is received he will never be obliged to wear them the rest of his life except when doing fine work. Relative Cost of the Poor. al The cost per capita for the maintenance of the poor in Venango county last year was 36 cents. In Warren county it was 12 cents. But in Crawford county, it cost 63 cents. FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN. Mis. Janet McDonald has been sent by the Chamber of Commerce and *‘Half Mii- lion”” Club of San Francisco on a tour of the South and East, with a view of attract- ing immigrants and capitol to California. Mrs. McDonald was formerly in the milli- nery business. She is said to be a forceful speaker. _ Where silk lining is too costly, non-rust- ling percaline is the best substitute. None but the best French hair cloth should be used for interlining, as it does not stretch, shrink, bulge or wear out. The imitation 1S poor economy. The bottoms of tailor- gowns are usually bound with velveteen. An inside dust ruffle looks very pretty, be- sides saving the bottom of the skirt lining, the place it begins to wear first, but these are not nearly so much used as formerly. This season, as formerly. the best tailors avoid novel signs and striking designs for their smart suits. The tailor gown that looks like a uniform, or is trimmed on every fold, is known at a glance to be made by the wholesale for shop trade, and is not affected by refined, exclusive women. There are three styles of skirts for the spring tailor made : The circular, the Span- ish flounce and the gored model, having from five to nine gores. The last named is mostly used for short, stout women, the shorter and stouter the woman the more gores being necessary for a good fit and becoming effect. For the jackets, the three-quarter fly front, the Eton jacket, the close fitting bodice, the box coat and the Russian blouse are the most pepular. The two first are decidedly preferable to the last. The latest Russian blouse has a smoothly-fitting back. no basque or skirted piece, is very closely belted and pouched very slightly in the front. Only a master hand should attempt a circular skirt, be- cause it is very difficult to make them hang well. They should be cut crosswise of very wide material, with the selvedge at the waist and the hem to keep them from hanging unevenly at the bottom. The av- erage width of the swellest gored skirts is four yards and a half at the foot. The front is very narrow, with all the fullness massed in the back. Itis so shaped as to have no fullness at the top on the front and sides and very little at the back. Short cutaways, with one or three buttons in front and a coat back, are exceedingly swagger. With these are worn fancy vests in small silk brocade effects, which are very rich and handsome. The close-fitting bodice, with habit back, is best adapted to the short-waisted full figure of the stout woman or one who possesses an absolutely faultless figure. The less severe three- quarter fly-front or cut-away, with vest, are better adapted to the ordinary figure. All the jackets are conspicuously short, falling only a few inches below the waist. line. The new fly front gives a better curve to the figure than tke old one on ac- count of the shaping of the one dart in the front. A quarter of a yard of fine ored silk velvet will make the sible standing collar to your chemisette of white silk muslin. The muslin is laid in finest tucks, and when the last year’s In- dia silk or foulard is scooped out at the shoulders and worn with this collar and guimpe you will look as fresh and spring- like as the first daffodil of the season. Jonquil-col- freshest pos- To remove mildew dissolve two heaping teaspoonfuls of chloride of lime in a quart of boiling water. Pour the water on to the chemicals in an earthen bowl. Siir steadily for five minutes. In half an hour strain this water into a tub holding three gallons of lukewarm water. Stir well. Put the garment in, turn it every fifteen minutes for half a day unless the mildew disappears before that time. Rinse in sev- eral waters and dry in a sunny place out of doors. This will bleach any colored gar- ment. If the home dressmaker attempts a guimped dress, let her remember that the guimpe is made on an underwaist of fine white lawn. It has arm holes not too closely fitted. The guimpe will not stay in place unless attached to an underwaist, It will tend to rise up when the dress is over it. It is not necessary that the under- waist goes quite to the waist, but provide eyes at the lower edge, back and front, so that the corresponding hook may he placed at the foot of the cut out portion of the waist. When these are hooked the guimpe cannot ride up, and will stay in place as it should. Do not get the gunimpe too tight around the neck, for it will then be un- comfortable, and any letting out might leave stitch marks on the fine satin or mus- lin. Bathing after a nap is injurious. A rough bathing towel is better for any kind of bath than a smooth one. For protecting the hair during a shower bath or in a large plunge a cap of water- proof is light and comfortable. The rule is : hot water for the tub bath, cold water for the shower bath, water of normal temperature for the plunge. It is hardly necessary to remind the bather that weakened digestion is the re- sult of bathing within an hour after a full meal. : If the temperature of the bath water is either above or below normal the face and edges of the hair should be thoroughly moistened with the water before the plunged is made. One should never stay in a tub bath more than ten minutes, nor in a shower bath more than two. In a plunge bath one may safely stay twenty minutes, as the exercise prevents bad effects. If one is contemplating the necessity of exposure to sun or wind, a zold water bath is better than a warm one, as it toughens the skin and makes it firmer in its resist- ance to unfavorable conditions. The strained juice of three lemons, if put in the bath water, will give a delicious sense of cleanliness. The acid removes all stoppage of the pores caused by the accu- mulation of saline substances. The bather who has been recommended to her cold water baths and who cannot overcome her repugnance to them may be sure that this shrinkage is the warning of a delicate constitution that the treatment is too drastic. If you want a pretty spring gown make it of violet cloth with row upon row of black satin folds graduating in curved ef- fect that gives that specially fashionable dip to the back breadths. A semi-blouse built over a very fine white tucked chemi- sette and at the neck a large cravat how of black satin to match the stock, wear with it an English walking hat worn well down over the face and burdened with black quills, choux of black chiffon and great clusters of violets under the rim at the back.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers