1897. GRIEVE NO MORE. The past is o’er— Waste not thy days in vain regret ; Grieve thou no more. Look now before And notbehind thee ; do not fret— The past is o‘er. Thy pain is sore And thou hast cause for sorrow, yet Grieve thou no more. Close Memory’s door— That day is dead, the sun has set— The past is o'er. There are in store For thee still happy days. Grieve thou no more. Forget ! Smile as of yore— No longer let thine eyes be wet. The past is o'er. Grieve thou no more ! —M. H. W. in Chambers’ Journal. THE SENIOR SENATOR. The senior senator was ill. Conscientious attention to legislative duties had overtaxed his strength and the doctors had ordered rest and a journey south. Time was when he could have come and gone without comment ; when his move- ments were of no special moment to any one—but that was all changed now and the news of the contemplated trip was an item for the papers and a matter of interest to many people. To-day, as he sat on his country-house piazza and looked out across the lawn, he congratulated himself anew that he had not listened to his friend’s advice and sold his old home. It was a neglected place and somewhat ‘gone to ruin, but to eyes accustomed to the shaven swards and closely trimmed trees of city parks there was something re- freshing in the sweep of grass and the ex- panse of unpruned branches that met his gaze. The senior senator, lounging in the shade of a Marchal Niel rosebush and listening to the hum of bees, the songs of birds, with work behind him and responsibility for- gotten, appreciated that life was sweet. He was not much given to retrospection, having but scant leisure to indulge in that pastime of the idle, but here amid the scenes of his boyhood he felt impelled to pause and look back on the days that had gone. Busy crowded years they were, years that had brought him alternate pain and pleasure, triumph and defeat, but which had seen him ultimately reach the goal of his ambition, the United States Senate. At this stage of his reflections Lis face clouded and a deep line appeared between his brows, for try as he might, he could not shut out of the prospective the figure of the man who had given him his first en- couragement. It was unfortunate that in after years his early friend should develop into his political rival and that the exigencies of the situation should demand his sacrifice. Self-interest was, of course, stronger than gratitude and he had only acted as any other man would have acted in his place. After his open renunciation and public denial of his benefactor the two men had met frequently, but there had been noth- ing in the conduct of his opponent to fret the successful candidate—there had been no reproaches, no allusion to past favors, no hint of treachery or ingratitude. Indeed, his cheerful acceptance of the situation was so extraordinary, so thor- oughly incomprehensible, that his rival could not but believe that it was a mask assumed for the occasion to hide his real sentiments. He prized himself upon his astuteness and was not at all deceived, for he knew that heneath the guise of friendship it was easier to stab, so in view of his suspicions he thought it wiser to withdraw altogether from the accustomed association. He went his way, the way of the rising statesman, and the other who had drunk deep of the cup of popular favor and who knew that nothing was more fickle than public approval, wearying of politics, sud- denly turned his back upon his old life and retired to the country. Strangely enough, his own place was but a few miles apart from the other’s ; indeed, he bad driven past there yesterday, on his vay from the station, and as he looked out at the old gray house, set down amid its trees, he had wondered idly what man- ner of life the people back there lived. A dull, monotonous existence surely and he could not but pity the woman-kind whom duty or affection had led to this far- away corner of the world. It was easier to picture him a soured, embittered man, brooding over his wrongs, cherishing his resentments and nourishing envy, hatred and malice against the rival who had outstripped him, than to think of him surrounded by his children and his books—far from the maddening crowd that had never charmed him—living a peaceful, contented existence, in love and charity with all men and drifting gradually toward a generous and kind old age. The senior senator sat up suddenly. A vehicle that had been slowly creeping | down the road was turning in at his gates. It was a ramshackle affair, drawn by a pair of mules, driven by a half-grown lad, and when it came nearer he saw that its only occupant was a young girl. The senior senator’s courtesy to women was proverbial, so he threw away his cigar and when the carriage drew up before the house he was at the foot of the steps to welcome his unknown caller. She was dressed in black and when she lifted her heavy veil he saw that she was very pale, but that, however, did not de- tract from her marvelous beauty. . That she was a stranger he recognized instantly, but there was something oddly familiar in the expression of her dark eyes. ‘‘Senator Graves 9’ fortunate I did not miss you, for I bring you a message from my father. I am Miss Rothermel.”’ The senator’s expression changed, for he | guessed at once the object of this visit. Necessity (for he had heard of his old friend’s need) had thrown the girl upon | the world, and, presuming upon her fath- er's early acquaintance with him, she had come to him to ask that aid and in- dorsement which he felt little inclined to give. While these thoughts were passing through his mind he was courteously urg- ing her to come in, but she put the offer aside. ‘‘Here is the letter,” she said, lay- ing an envelope in his hand. ‘It was only written last night, and under the circum- stances it may seem strange to you that I bring instead of sending it, but my father : she said, question- | ingly, then before he could reply: *‘It is | especially desired that I should do so. He feared it might be lost in the mail and never reach you, (a sick man’s fancy, ) and he laid such stress upon my giving it | to you myself that I would have been care- | less indeed if T had failed to gratify him— | particularly now.” {The senator took the letter idly. That | it contained an appeal for assistance he felt | confident, and the girl's grave, pathetic beauty was, of course, expected to do its i share toward influencing him. He tore off | the envelope and read : | ““WooDLEIGH, April 9.—My Dear | Ernest: It has been many a day since | you received a letter from my hand, and | doubtless you will find it difficult to de- | cipher this one. I was never much of a | scribe, as you remember, and what little i skill I ever possessed has deserted me since my long illness. While lying on my deathbed I have thought much of you and your successful career. You cannot know i what a gratification it has been to me to | see the lad whom I always admired push ! boldly to the front and by his wit and re- | source give to his state that representation in the halls of Congress which she always deserved. “I would have told you this ere now, but a political life is apt to make one skeptical, and perhapsif I had expressed myself frankly and unreservedly as Iam doing now you might have thought I had some ax to grind—a friend I wished ad- vanced, some woman relative to be placed in the departments, so I held my peace. I do not say you would have doubted me, but you might have done so, and nothing could hurt me more than that you should misjudge me. And speaking of that re. minds me of what I meant to say. Some time ago an acquaintance (one of those idle gossips who do so much to make life harder) told me that he had every reason to know that you thought I still bore you a grudge for defeating me. I bear youa grudge ! Why, my dear boy, the idea is too preposterous ! Surely you know that I was not made of such contemptible stuff and that my reason for not seeking you more was because you were rich and pros- perous and I was neither, and when one is on the crest of the wave itis so easy to misunderstand the motives of those who are not. “I do not say this to reproach you, but by way of explanation. “I was weary of public life and its ac- companying trials, long before you de- feated me, and you did but pave the way to what I had long desired. ‘‘Ask my wife, my children, any of my friends, and they will confirm this state- ment. ‘No, Ernest, what I have regretted (and that continually) is that time and circum- stances should have swept you so com- pletely out of my life, for it hurt me that you should so soon have outgrown me. ‘“That I hated you or envied you your rightly won honors in a fallacy too pal- pable to need denial, but which I am nevertheless writing to do. “They tell me you are at Ashley for a fortnight, so will you not drop in some afternoon and see me ! “I would like to look upon your face again and talk over the old days when you were my stauch helper and right hand man, and when you were only dreaming of the fame that now is yours. ‘You will not refuse me this, I know, closed about me forever.”’ The senator lifted his hand to his throat. “I regret that you will not come in, Miss Rothermel,”’ he said, ‘‘but will you tell your father for me that I will drive over to see him this evening ?’ She looked at him curiously, then, draw- ing her veil closer about her face, she turn- ed back to the carriage. “That is kind of you,’’ she answered, do nothing—my father died this morning.’ —Chicago News. ——~Quanah Parker. the big chief of the Comanches, who was erroneously reported murdered by an outlaw in the southwest, only to be found alive and well at Sher- man, Tex., is the richest and in many re- spects the most civilized of American In- dians. He is the principal chief of his tribe, and lives ina $6000 house in the midst of a great cattle ranch, over which range thousands of fine cattle and hundreds of well-bred horses. Parker’s mother was a white woman, who was stolen in her in- fancy from her people by the Comanches. She married one of the warriors of the tribe, and when Quanah was a small boy she was recaptured by her friends and died of a broken heart because she was not al- lowed to rejoin her Indian husband and child. Quanah was made chief of the tribe, and has ruled it with great wisdom and foresight. He is very abstemious, never drinking anything that is stronger than coffee. ——For the first time in the history of the world a horse has paced over a mile track in less than two minutes. This great feat was accomplished by Star Pointer, at Readville, Mass.. and was a grand triumph for horse flesh and the developing spirit of the turf. This now famous horse paced in the wonderful time of 1 minute 59} seconds, thereby eclipsing John R. Gentry’s previous championship pacing record of 2 minutes and one-half i second by one and one-quarter seconds. Within only a little over half a decade the i mile pacing record has been thus lowered from Direct's 1891 feat of 2.06, the suc- cessive champions being Hal Pointer, Mas- cot, Flying Jib, Robert J. and John R. Gentry. ——The wife of the late Prof. Agassiz was one morning putting on her stockings and boots. A little scream attracted the professor’s attention. Not having risen, he leaned forward anxiously on his elbow and inquired what was the matter. ‘‘“Why, a little snake has just crawled out of my boot !”’ cried she. ‘‘Only one, my dear ?”’ interrogated the professor, clamly lying down again. ‘‘There should have been three.”” He had put them there to keep them warm. ——1It is a fact not generally known that | the first and the last stand of the Con- federates were made on land owned by the same man. A part of Bull Run battlefield was owned by Mr. McLean. After this famous battle he decided to move to a locality where there would be less fear from the ravages of war. By a strange coincidenc: he took up his abode at Ap- pomatwx, which subsequently proved to be the final battlefield of the civil war. How She Won. There was a fair young prima donna, Who as a success was a stonna, It was not her voice That made her the choice, But the clotkes that she didn’t have onna. | — Indianapolis Journal, for in a little while the shadows will have | A Bellefonte Boy’s View of the Queen’s Juabilee. Cadet Mid-Shipman Roland Curtin of the U. 8. Battle-Ship Brooklyn Writes of the Things He Saw While His 8hip Was Representing Our Navy at Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. My Dear Father :—If a description of my interesting and delightful trip on the Brooklyn to the Queen’s Jubilee would he of interest to my friends in Bellefonte, you can have it published. The navy department in accepting the invitation from the English government to send one ship to participate in the naval review attending the celebration of the 60th year of her Majesty, Queen Victoria’s reign, naturally selected our newest and finest equipped ship of the navy, the U. S. S. Brooklyn, as being the fittest to repre- sent at such a grand military and naval- pageant the great American Republic. Rear Admiral Joseph N. Miller was select- ed by the department for flag officer, and he hoisted his flag on board the Brooklyn, in the North river, on June 2nd ; and at 10 o’clock on the morning of June 3rd, we weighed anchor and steamed out of New York harbor and started on the voyage which proved to be one of the most inter- esting as well as instructive that any ship of our navy has ever taken, and one that the officers and men will never forget, and I might say will never see again. The passage across was made in eleven days, at the economical speed of 13 knots. On the morning of June 13th, the famous Eddystone Rock light was sighted, and on the morning of June 14th we came to anchor in Southampton. morning in company with some of my mess mates I went to London. London at the time was crowded with people and the streets and houses were beautifully and brilliantly decorated. In my sight seeing of four days very little of interest escaped my notice. The city was so over crowded at this time that those who wished to see the parade had to engage rooms weeks ahead and pay exorbitant prices for them, but through the courtesy of Mr. B. F. Stevens, the American despatch agent in London, the officers of the Brooklyn were provided with comfortable accommodations and without paying jubilee prices. We spent one of our evenings in London at the Alhambra theatre, where they had a jubilee ballet. The house was packed and as the various patriotic tableaux were shown the people went wild with enthusi- asm. The closing act was a tableau called ‘Britannia Rules’’ in which representatives of all her majesty’s regiments and her sail- ors appeared, they all received many cheers, but on the appearance of the sailors the en- thusiasm was intense, showing clearly that England’s heart lies in her navy. In the grand finale the band played ‘‘God Save the Queen’’ and every person in the audience stood up and those in the galleries uncovered their heads, national hymn. It wasa striking exam- ple of deep loyalty and patriotism so ad- mirable a characteristic of the English peo- ple, and it was also an example that the American people could well profit by, for es | too often in our country are we careless of gently, ‘‘but it is too late now—you can ! ceremonies pretaining to our flag. On the 19th we returned to the ship at Southampton to allow others to go. this day we went to Spithead and took our position in the line of foreign war ships. It is impossible to describe my impressions of this magnificent fleet. ands of miles to see. It appeared to for- eign officers, not expecting to see such a tremendous fleet, to be England’s chal- lenge and warning to the world, and it told only too plainly of her unsurpassed naval power and unlimited resources. It was the most forcible and superb object lesson of this or any other century, and the English were shrewd enough to make it more potent by allowing only ore ship of each power to be present, thus forestall- ing any counter display by any foreign power which might distract from the splen- dor of her own. We in America think, and sometimes justly so, that what we have is as good, if not better than the rest of the world, but one glance at those lines of English battle ships, cruisers and torpedo boats was enough to make us, though proud of our navy and its person- i nel, feel our insignificance when compared with England. We to-day stand number five in power and efficiency of the navies of the world, and the ships that we have are the finest in the world, but where we have one modern, powerful and well equipped ship, England has thirty. The first few days at Spithead were taken up in making and receiving official visits and saluting the admirals of the ships. The roar of saluting cannon was kept up almost incessantly for ten days. In this time we expended for this purpose 1300 pounds of powder, or 700 charges and when one realizes that this amount is less than one two-hundredth of the total amount of powder expended by the com- bined fleet, the word incessently does not appear to be any exaggeration. The English ships were anchored in five ! lines, known as B. C. D. F. and G. Line B. was composed of first class battle ships, the flower of the Englich navy. Line C. of second class hattle ships and first class cruisers. Line D. of cruisers and gun boats. Line F. of torpedo boat destroyers and gun boats. Line G. of torpedo boats. Each of these lines was five miles long, making in all 25 miles of English ships, flying 165 pendants and manned by 28,577 officers and men. ? In rendezvousing this enormous fleet the admirality did not call a single ship from any of her numerous squadrons scattered all over the world, not did they commis- sion for the occasion any of her ships in re- The following | and sang their | On | It was a wonder- | ful and unsurpassing sight, never to be | forgotten and one worth traveling thous- | serve. In other words this stupendous fleet, which is only one-fifth of England’s navy, and vet greater than any other pow- er's entire navy was composed exclusively of the home and channel squadrons. The commanding of the entire fleet was vested in Admiral Sir Nowell Salmon, -V. C., K. C. B., whose flag was hoisted on board H. M. S. Renown. The foreign men-of-war formed line A. next to and parallel toline B. and was composed of the following ships in order of their arrival : Wein, Austria Hungary ; Konig Wilhelm, Germany ; Vizcaya, Spain ; Lepanto, Italy ; Brooklyn, United States; Rossia, Rus- sia ; Pothuau, France ; Evertsen, Nether- lands ; Vasco de Gama, Portugal ; Frithiof, Norway ; Goti, Sweden ; Heligoland, Den- mark ; Fuji, Japan ; Maha Chaka, Royal Yatch of the King of Siam. Of the foreign ships the Brooklyn was really the best all around ship for her class and displacement. The English papers, never very complimentary to us, seemed to think us the best, except possibly the Japanese battle ship Fuji, but this excep- tion is to be expected since the Fuji is a battle ship, and was built by the English. The English and foreigners were always very polite and entertained us beau- tifully. Several times during the week officers from all the foreign ships were in- vited to review the fleet on a torpedo boat destroyer. These trips were always very interesting for it gave us a chance to be- come better acquainted with the officers of the other ships. i The Russians never failed to show their | friendship for us. Their ship was anchored | next to ours and every morning and even- ing at colors when our band would play the national air of the nations represented, the Russians would crowd to the rails and cheer vociferously when our hand played “The Star Spangled Banner” and ‘“‘God Save the Czar.” At noon on the 22nd, at a signal from | the old ‘‘Victory,”” Nelsons flag ship at the | battle of Trafalgar, every ship in the fleet ! fired a salute of 60 guns, in honor of the | 60th year of her Majesty’s reign. Never was there such a connonading in time of | peace before. | On the 23rd we were invited by the jun- ior, or gun room officers of the British bat- tle-ship ‘‘Empress of India’’ to dine on board their ship. We had a delightful time as they are the best of fellows. They were our vis-a-vis in line and our consorts in everything. Friday night we gave them a dinner, and they had a glorious time, as there was the best of good fellowship between the two messes. They later sent us a handsome framed picture of their ship which now occupies a | prominent place in our mess room, and will | always be a souvenir of many happy | times with our ‘Empress of India’’ friends. Saturday morning the day of the review, dawned as rather a promising day, and the two hundred or more ships, all dressed with flags presented a beautiful appear- ance. Our Admiral has sent invitations to all Americans in England, and too all American yachting people possible to be on board to witness the review. About two- hundred came and they were all brought off on an English gun boat kindly | placed at our disposal. When the guests arrived on hoard they found a delightful luncheon prepared for them in the admiral’s cabin. Up to two o'clock there was a tremendous lot of steamers, great and small, hurrah boats, as the English call them, crowded with tourists and sight seers. They all seemed to cheer the Brooklyn more than any other ship, and indeed we did look smart and neat. Among the sights the wonderful new torpedo boat ‘‘Turbinia’’ dashed by us, going at the actual speed of 34.5 knots (40 miles) an hour. She is a new invention, her motive power being steam turbines. She must, of necessity be, however very light and small and there is very little hope that she will ever be more than a curiosity. At two o’clock the lines were cleared of small craft,and the boom of gun from the old ‘‘Victory’’ announced the Prince of Wales and started such a cannonading from the 200 or more ships as was never heard be- fore. The Prince in his royal yacht moved out and down through the lines, being fol- lowed hy other steamers, containing the members of the house of lords, house of commons, colonials, admiralty, etc. The rails of every ship were manned, and as the Prince passed each he received three cheers, while the hands played ‘‘God Save the Queen.”’ After reviewing the fleet he anchored near the ‘‘Renown,’’ the English chief flag ship, and then all the English and foreign { admirals called on hin. Our Admiral and | staff went in our handsome pulling barge, | being we are very preud to say among the | few who had style enough to do it in | that way ; most of the others using speedier | but dirtier and less stylish steam launches. | We were favorably commented upon for this in the English papers. Late in the day a heavy thunder storm came up, and we had some difficulty in taking our guests on shore. Many re- mained over for the illuminations. These began at 9.15 and were the crowning feat- ure of the whole Jubilee, and was by far the most magnificent sight. It was beyond description. In the first place the night was just right, clear | but dark, and without moon, so that the | illuminations showed out clearly and effectively. Imagine to yourself five lines of war vessels, each line five miles long, the lines being 200 yards apart ; and about a hun- dred large merchant vessels. Then remem- | ship. ber that each and every one of these 300 or | more ships were outlined in fiery line of incandescent lights, and every mast and spar being outlined as well as the hulls and smoke-stacks. The foreign ships all had special and varying forms of illumina- tions, of varying degrees of beauty, and the Russians and some merchant vessels made a grand pyrotechnic display. The ‘‘Brooklyn,”’ though simple, caused much more enthusiasm than any other, and judging from the English comments seemed to be the best liked. We had a rain-bow of lights running from bow to stern, over the mast head, the lights being strung closely together. Then our rail was outlined all the way round with lights. Between the funnels, in huge figures of fiery brillancy, we had ‘“V. R. 1857, 1897,”’ and on the fore-mast, in large letters, ‘‘Brooklyn.”’ After the first cheering had died down we had the band play the ‘‘Star Spangled Banner,” and hoisted a huge American flag at the main, and turned a search light ont, which made it show brightly and conspicuously far above the other illumina- tions. This ingenious scheme was much applauded, and especially so, when later the band played ‘‘God Save the Queen,” and we turned a search light on a large British flag hoisted at the fore. As it cauglit the eyes of the men far down the line there were cheers after cheers given for us. Later in the evening we had a dance on the qguarter-deck, and never wasa dance held under more enchancing and beauti- ful circumstances. After the dance an American from New York took all the junior officers on his yacht to review the fleet illuminated, and thus we had a better chance of seeing our own ship as others saw us. The illumina- tions lasted until eleven o’clock, when they terminated in the roaring and flash- ing of cannon, a parting salute of 21 guns from every ship to the Prince of Wales. For some reason or other as yet unknown to us, we had received orders to sail for home July 2nd, long before we had ex- pected to go. This compelled our leaving Spithead the next day, Sunday the 27th, thus making us miss the admiralty ball and all the official functions and ceremonies. We were the very first ship to leave. It had an effect however in that it made our de- parture very effective. As we went out we passed down the whole line of English and foreign ships, and our men were at their quarters and saluted as we passed each We played the national air of each country as we passed its ship, and their bands played ours in return. As we took our departure from the ‘‘ Empress of India’ and some other English ships the bands played. ‘Should Old Acquaintance be Forgot,’” and many hearty cheers were given. During the entire time we were passing the five miles of English ships our band played ‘‘God Save the Queen’’ continuous- ly and our men stood at attention. Such little things, though they are not little after all, may seem to some people as fool- ish and unnecessary red tape and fuss ; but it is the observance of just such things that serve to give foreigners a good opinion of us and to make us liked and respected by other nations. and besides they are a necessary part of the comity of nations. At Southampton we coaled ship, taking on board 1200 tons. Then came the sad news of the death of the Admiral’s daugh- ter, a very attractive pretty girl, about 19, and his only child. She had been ill with typhoid fever all during the Jubilee, and was afterwards taken to a private hospital where she died. Miss Miller was buried at Woking, near London. On the 4th of July I went on shore and stayed with a class-mate of mine who is studying naval architecture in England, and together we took a long bicycle ride to Netly Abbey and to Winchester. Friday morning we weighed anchor and sailed for home. We had witnessed the most wonderful and powerful military and naval pageant the world has ever seen, and we shall always look back upon our short hut interesting trip as being, not only novel and interesting, but highly instruc- tive. We had a splendid opportunity of comparing our methods with the methods of all the powerful nations of the globe, seeing wherein we lacked and wherein we were superior. We could not but ad- mire and hold in deep respect the English navy. In the matter of ships sheis of course the acknowledged leader, but ship for ship our own navy is. I believe, more powerful. English naval officers, like most profes- sional men of to-day, go in for specialties, but the navy is no place for specialties, for a naval office can not afford, for instance, to specialize ordinance and gunnery to the neglect of navigation or seamanship, or visa versa. If we should ever become em- broiled with England, with our present naval strength, we could expect nothing less than destruction on the sea, but we must remember that our navy is in its | infancy, that we have already made won- { derful strides in naval matters, and that the ships that we have are the finest in the world, but we want more of them, and more men to man them. A great'statesman has said, ‘‘keep com- mand of the seas as you value international life,”” and to the realization of this imn- portant maxim let us hope the American people will arrive, and act accordingly, in a day not far distant. - : Sincerely yours ROLAND I. CURTIN. Oliver Wendell Holmes said to a young man who asked him to name the three best books. ‘‘The Bible, Shake- FOR AND ABOUT WOMEN. Mrs. Virginia C. Meredith, of Cambridge City, Ind., has been selected by the Min- nesota State Board of Regents to have charge of the work of establishing a young woman’s department at the agricultural school of that State. Mrs. Meredith has been owner and manager for many years of one of the most successful stock farms in the State. The strap effect is seen on bodices intend- ed for early autumn wear. Sometimes it is one broad. or two medium sized, or three narrow bands applied horizontally across the waist. Their proper office is to cross vertical bands. One sometimes sees up- and-down folds of silk or ribbon arrange- ments strapped across with narrow jet edging. Occasionally a strip of insertion, white on black or black on white, is stitched to the strap. The ‘‘Hussar’’ straps are used on tailor gowns. They consist of bands of serge, cheviot or of whatever material the dress may be, stiffened by rows of machine stitching or narrow soutache braiding. Three Hussar straps would be in place on the yoke portion of a jacket front, and one on each shoulder controls the drapery of slight fullness of the sleeve. The straps are often secured by a mohair tailor but- ton, but as a matter of fact they look rather better without this decoration. The autumn jacket or coat is an indis- pensable garment ; new styles are practical and the various weaves of smooth cloth, fancy coating and whipcord were never handsomer. The colors are indicative of the sombre season—tan, brown, blue, green, bronze and black. An inlay of vel- vet in the collar, handsome buttons for the closing and sometimes elaborate frog orna- ments and braid decoration distinguish the best examples. The double breasted style | is prominent on the promenade at cool re- | sorts where advance fashions are even now displayed. A close effect at the sides and back and loose box fronts lapped and closed in double-breasted style mark the up-to-date garment. Lapels that form notches with the rolling collar, box-plaited fullness at the top of the sleeves and pock- et-laps of velvet or the cloth are eminently appropriate. The opening above the clos- ing of the jacket permits the chemisette, shirt-waist or fancy: collar to come into view with admirable and becoming effect. The genuine tailor-made gown has come back and will be worn extensively and again with less extra trimming. Not that it will be severely plain, but other styles promise to be so elaborately trimmed that the plain tailor-made affairs may seem in strong contrast. Braid trimming is par- ticularly suited to this prime favorite and will be used more than any other variety. Occasionally one panel of the skirt will be treated in this way, and if braid is used on the costume at all it invariably appears on the revers and collar. In fact, braid, both silk and mohair, is undoubtedly the trimming which will be almost universally on fall dresses. Skirts are decorated at the foot and perhaps at the hips with three to five rows. The seams are covered with a narrow width, to give height to a short: skirt, and festooned rows are occasionally seen taking the place of the stiffer straight ones. Sleeves are trimmed with it cross and lengthwise and around the epaulettes. One row forms a belt, or two rows trim a belt of the mater- ial. Vests are trimmed in cross or length- wise rows, the narrow widths looking best for this, or the vest has graduated frog or loops with plain braid rows elsewhere. Jackets are trimmed on the edge and up the seams. Braided vests in white, green and tan cloth, as well as brilliant scarlet, will be very popular. Gilt soutache forms a truly elegant trimming for this purpose and is destined to be largely used. White of egg is a most soothing applica- tion for burns—if the egg is absolutely new laid all the better for wounds; it has a most healing effect, and where the burn has been rather deep it is advisable to cov- er it with the thin skirt which is found just inside the shell ; it must be used as soon as the egg has been broken, whilst it is still moist and removable. This simple remedy has healed many a burn, and even in serious cases has made the journey to the doctor’s less unbearable by far. There are any amount of new striped silks, in Roman effects for waists ; these at $1. A waist of one of these can hardly help being desirable. A beautiful one is in all shades of violet with smaller mark- ings of ecru, green, pink and cream. But, they must be seen to be appreciated. Brighter colors are fashionable on gowns and hats now, and satisfactory results can be secured by some bright ribbons or trim- ming on a gown that has done duty all Summer. Dark vests in place of the white chiffon and lace will make a light-colored gown sufficiently sombre for Autumn wear, while substituting red flowersin place of white feathers will completely transform a straw hat that has too summery an ap- pearance. Gingham gowns made with lining are quite warm enough to wear until really cold weather sets in, and if made of dark coloring are as useful as and much more comfortable than serge or cheviot. This season’s ginghams are to be had in plaids, checks, and stripes, and of most suitable and effective colors. In red and white check a charming gown is made, trimmed around the foot of the skirt with full nar- row ruffles, edged, with yellow Val- enciennes lace. The waist has a full front, trimmed also with narrow lace edged ruf- fles, but much narrower and plainer than those on the skirt, according to ‘‘Harper’s Bazar.”” The sleeves are shirred, and around the wrist are again the ruffles. A soft collar and belt are of red foulard, edged with lace. This gown is lined throughout with red silk —the skirt, how- ever, being separate from the lining—and the silk adds greatly to the effect. Another pretty gown, which is rather smarter if perhaps more conspicuous, is of red and white plaid, not check, over which are rough white threads that give a raised look. This also is made up over red silk, but there is no trimming on the under- skirt. On the silk petticoat, however, are flounces and ruffles, which make it stand out, and also give a flare to the gingham skirt. The waist is decidedly warm, hav- ing first the tight-fitting lining of red silk then the gingham, and over this a sleeve- less lace jacket of bands of guipure lace al- ternating wth bands of ribbon. This lace jacket is somewhat on the plan of the new style of waist that the French call casaque, with a little frill below the waist, which makes it look smarter and newer than the ordinary blouse. A black satin stock-collar and a broad sash of black satin ribbon complete the costume, It might be stated in parenthesis that the cost of the gingham itself is the very least consideration of these gowns which speare, and a good dictionary.” are so expensively lined and trimmed.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers