8 COLLARS. THEIR ORIGIN AND HISTORY The Failures and Fucccsscs of Shakespeare, Crlchton, B.tinimell, Bjron, D'O -gay, and Hunt. THE FUNCTIONS OF FRILLS AND FURBELOWS. How and When Paper Collars Came into Use. TRIBULATIONS OF THEIR INVENTORS. Statistics ot tlio Trtlo. THE PROCESS OF MANUFACTlRfe. Stfin 13tO.. iitO.. t0.i fltO. IN TDB BEGINNING. Whon that quaint old pentlcmtin, suruained Eiedrich Knickerbocker, wrote big veritable fciitoryof Newport, ho proceeded upon lir-st pnuciples, and commenced at tue creation of the world. In this article upon that portion of biud and woman's attire which is termed a collar, we ehoU lollow hie llliiHtrlous example. But here at tue very outset, wo tiud ourselves at a loss lor mutenuls. We have diligently eearcheJ all the Illustrious histories ot li.nne and Greece, as well hs the pictorial records of the lews, and f the Gentile tribes surroundlnc; them, and jet we have tailed utterly to discover anything which either by courtesy or rontort on could be denominated a coll ir. The ancient tiyp'ians, it is true, son etinies wore a deep necklace, which, among the Fharaohs and other person, ges of royal extraction, was usually composed ot gold, and varigited wiih jrems of the first water. Tins if tne nearest approach to the collar which ancient .history alFordt;. It cannot be disputed that the ancients were, in this one respect ut leant, much w'uer than their degenerate descendants. Oae ot the first laws ot health proscribes the wearing of any thing about the neck which tirs it as tightly as do the collars ol the niuoteentli century. But as one's health is a subject of minor importance when one's personal uppi-rauce is ut stake, we feBr it 'Mil prove unprofitable to puisne this branch ot the subject a, any greater lcuiib. TtkE COLLAR A BADOB 01'' SERVITUDE. When we said that we could discover in tht ancieut styles of dress m traces of tac modern collar, we must he understood in referring olely to that port. on of the community who were at liberty to determine for themselves the Ktnerul cut and trim of their apparel. That unfortunate class of people ho, in all a'es and among nil nation, have been despoiled of nearly all the rights and privilege.? of their manhood the same being denominated helots, f llleiu.', serls, ("laves, or servauts, as the case may have been have been accustomed to wear a collar about their throats Irom time immemo rial. It was, indeed, In early times, the inva riable badge ol servitude. Even our forefathers those sturdy Anglo-Saxon yeomen upon a descent from whom wo so greatly pride our elves were ml exempt Irom this degrading practice. In the book of the early chroniclers we find repeated reference to the collar thus worn. It was usually made of iron, and fitted as neatly to the throat as the collar of a dog in these Diodern days.' Sometimes it even bore an inscription, declaring to all who might desire to rcsd the name and owner of the human cnaitel about whoso neck it was securely welded. Sometimes the collar was formed of Filver, and in rare instances of gold itself; bat this extra va france was displaed only by those whose worldly substance was very great, and as a Mark of especial favor to the serf, or villein, as he was then and there called. THE COLLAR A BADGE OP NOBILITY. The use of the collar as a badge of servitude ' fmrvived the Middle Age, but subsequent thereto it was rarely used lor that purpose. This was probably owintr to the fact that it gradually came to be worn as a mark of gen tility and of noble blood. The tranfdtion is aim on unaccountable, unless we choose to refer this last practice back to the dvnaxties of ancient Eypt, and to trace it thence in uninterrupted succession. I: may be eui-y enough to do this, but we ehall not attempt it here. However, we find that almost all those valiant men who tilted the lance in the tournay, and courted death for the sake of a talr lady's ftmtle, were accustomed to wear a collar or chain ot gold, emblematic of the order f knighthood to which they severally belonged. This collar was usually set with various and mysterious devices or ciphers and boie as an appendage the badge r insignia of the brotherhood. Thus the Knichts ol the Garter wore, ai they still wear when they appear In full regalia, a collar which is variegated wl'h red-enameiled roses, set otf by a garter, enamelled lu blue. The figure of Ft. Ge rge daneles below, to remind the wearer of his sworn devotion to deeds of a marvellous and mirtial character. But in these days we imagine that this last insinuation is considered as somewhat farcastic in its bearing. In the Republic of Venice there was also an order known as tbo Knighthood of the Collar, called al the Order of St. Mark or the Medal. The ausust Doge himself was the head ot this fraternity, and with his own hands placed the collar about the necks ot his subordinates. It is said by the chroniclers of the period that these knlpbts wore no pvtioular habit, being distinguished simply by the collar, to which was attached a medal, bearing a figure of the winged Lion of the RspufcUc TBI PAWN Or TBI TRUE COLLI B KB A. It was iiot, however, until the spirit of chivalry we refer to that of the ancient sort alone was aearly extinct, that the feDaite collar came TgEJDAILY EVENING TELEdRAPH. FIIILADELP1IIA, MONDAY, Into popular uoe as an article of apparel, without having any special eienMcance attached to the wearing of li. In the days of the House of Tudor, and even of some of the later kings of the Plant agenet line, every person, whether man or woman, who made any parttmilar pretensions to reepect ability, wore about his or her throat an enormous frill or rnffle. The only purposes which these lanf ostlc f irbelovs are suppose! to have answered, were to put the throat and neck of the wearer iu a violent pewpira ion, and to lender his appearance as rldicnlons as possible. From pazipe lone and Intently at the pictures in Knight's "Pictorial History el England," we can imagine that they were entirely successful in both respects. , But the ruffles m which the "admirable" Crlch ton took such excessive pains to arrange him self before venturing 'nto the preence of royalty, had their acknowledged inconveniences. This we imagine to be the reason why Shakcsocare, a man whose all-grasping comprehension could condescend even to the prescribing of ft ta.iteful article of dress, is generally represented without the huge frills of liw contemporaries wearing, instead, an extensive snrlaco of plain linen, which descended on either side of his chin to the distance of half a foot or so, and ending In a point and a tassel. The Shakespeare collar was equally inconve nient on account of size, although free from the smo hering tendencies of the other pattern. Fortunately for the present generation, they were both out of vogue a century ago. And Mnce their day we have had a multitude of fashions, of dimensions large and small, and cut into shapes which bordered more or less on the fantastic. Of a'.l these, the ordinary "stand up" and the plain turn-down "Byron'' styles huveenloyed deservedly the longest and greatest popularity. TDK QUESTION OK MATERIAL. We imagine that the material out of which these Elizabethan frills were formed was similar to lhat light and flimsy stuff which a fe years ago was held ui such high favor by the gentler sex. But for the "Shakespeare," and all suc ceeding and similar stylus, a linen fabric has been found most convenient. A. modicum of starch and sizing was a'so involved in their proper petting-up, together with the weekly bill of the washerwoman, which last, in the cafe of a person of exquisite, or even of jenteel habits, was found to result in no small increase to the item of running expenses. It is surprising that some genius of the Brum mrll stamp, who was considered immac.ilati on the sublect of shirt-frouti and all that apper tained thereto, did not discover a substitute for linen, siarch, and w:ish bills. Ilrummeil him self, in his laier days, was re luced to the most abject dependence upon the bounty ol his friends and the fruits of' his clnatic ingenuity: and many aud clever vere the devices to which he resorted in endeavoring to live up to the stand ing rule ot bis career to change his shirt every attercoon at 3 o'cckj whether he had taken anything wherewithal .o appeaoe the pangs of hunger or not. Still, neither Brumme l uor D'Orsay invented paper collars; and, therefore, as the two men who of all othrs were the oues to devote their whole time and energies to the subject of dres, their lives may be considered failures of the most aggravated tvpe. TUE INVENTION Of PATER. COLLARS. As early as 1(7 the idea of limine oaper as a su'w-titute for linen in the manufacture or col lurs was conceived by an ingenious Frenchman. But alrer repeated attcmots, hf loiiud that the only quality of paper ttiu known and manufac tured was entirely too weak, to stand the strain upon it when applied to this purpose, and cou requcntly the idea was abandoned. in 1853 a genii' man by the name of Walter Hunt, residing iu the city of New York, had his attention accidentally turned in this direction Having been toiled in a lawsuit concerning his claim to the invention of a new sewing-machine stitch, he declared to a friend that he would invent a stitch which wojIJ super-ede the ma chiue fciitou altogether. Working upon this idea, he soon alturard& produced a collar, formed of two strip of paper cemented toge ther. Along the edge of this he propelled a notched or serrated wheel, which produce i an impression similar to stitching. Finding that he could procure no paper of sufficient strength and elasticity to answer the purpose satisiac torily, he afterwards inserted between the two strips a layer of coarse, stout muslin, which Imparted the requisite qualities. On the 25th of July, 1854, he received frutn the Government letters-patent lor this new article of manufacture and the process of making it. "The object of my invention," says Mr. Hunt, in his original application, "Is to produce a shirt collar that shall not be easily broken, whilst it shall have sufficient elasticity to bend to (he motions of the head; that shall possess the beauty and whiteness of the most carelully dressed linen collar, and at the same time thall preserve itself unsoiled for a much ereater length of time, and shall cost originally less than the washing and dressing of a linen collar; and my invention consists in making the collars of a fabric composed of both paper and cloth, and subsequently polishing the same by enamelling or burnishing, or in any suitable or efficient manner." Strauge to say, the origin al idea wh'ch had direcred bis experiments the debire to invent a ptitch resembling and super seding the machiue stitch was entirely lot sight of; and it was not until several years aiter wards that his assignee, in obtaining a reissue of the original patent, included tula feature in his claims and specifications, as ho was entitled by the present tate ot the patent law to do. THE KBW COLLAR ENCOUNTERS RIDICCLB AND OP POSITION. When Galileo declared his belief that the sun remained stationary in the heavens, while the earth revolved around it, he was regarded on all hands as a lunatic; and if he had persisted in asserting ihls scientific dogma, he would have been burned at the stake ai a danaerous combi nation ol heterodoxy and witchcraft. If Walter Hunt , had been a contemporary of Galileo, he would have been compelled to doif his paper collar, cr to grace with his involuntary presence the auto da fc. But the fact that Mr. Hunt was a well-known inventor ol New York, and had been born in the Nineteenth Century, did not spare him and his co-laborers Trom the ridicule and contempt which, even in this age aad nation, are always encountered by an attempt to introduce a sen sible and profitable novelty. The agent who undertook the sale of the collars were looked npon by the whole community as fit subjects for the ' 'fool-killer." Some merchant to whom they offered their wares' in this oily evon went so far as to order them to leave tteir stores, ' with the intimation that they had better seek ! employ meut in some calling which ;would not ! expose them to a s uspiclon of insanity. IT CRKATES A SBf RATION IN THB H0UPB Of COMMONS. Some specimen boxes of the new commodity were sent to Europ, where Its success was not more flattering than it hsd been at first on this side of the water. One of these travelling speci. mens found Its way into the hands of Mr. Glad stone, then Chancellor of her Majesty's Exche quer. The great English statesman viewed it with evident suspicion, and in the evening he carried it opto the Ho'ise of Commons with him. Here it was passed around from hand to hand, aiid contemplated by the at-scmblcd wisdom of the United Kingdoms as a combined monstrosity and curiosity. It was finally placed In the hat of one ot the member, and in that receptacle was poesed up into the Speaker's callery. What subsequent adventures belcll it, and whl became of the covering of the right honorable gentleman's head, we ki.ow not. TRIBULATIONS OP THE INVENTION. Before Mr. Hunt hod secured his letters-pateat, he deposed of half his interest in the invention for the paltry sum of four thomaud dollars, the purchaser beirg Mr. John W. Ridgway, of Bos ton. The other half was subsequently sold, for three thousand dollars, to E. II. Valentine & Co., ol New York. The latter gentlemen commence 1 the manufacture ot the new article; but soou desisted, on u account of the paor success that attended their efforts at selling their product. So the patent was sold and resold, passing from hand to hand, and diminishing in value at each repeated transfer. In September, 1P56, Mr. Valentino brought a sample box, containing one hundred of the collars, to Philadelphia, and enleavored to prrsuade Mr. William E. Lock wool, then a dry eoods commission merchant, doing basinet? in this city, to undertake the sale ot them. This the latter refused to do, saying pointedly that he regarded paper collars as the height of absurdity. He finally consented to make an attempt at selling them, aud subsequently dis posed of a few more package0. Eventually he persuaded himself that there was something substantial and profitable in the invention; aud in 1857, alter Messrs. Valentine & Co. b'id closed their factory and given up t'je business as unprofitable, he purchased their interest and removed their machinery to this city. H j sub sequently acquired by piuchae the several interests held by the other as-iignees of Walter Hunt, thus becoming rhe owner of the entire patent. Mr. Lockwood lirst established himself at tho Keystone Mills, near Falrmount. In 1400 he was forced, by the rapid increase of his patronage, to remove to his preaent quar ters, Nos. 255, 257, and 25 ) S. Third street. By Judicious management and improved pniented machinery, the business has by this time assumed large proportions iu h'n hands. His employes vary lu number from two hundred and fifty to three hundred, the annual product of his manufactory bciui; probably iu excess of that ol auy idmilar establishment, in the United States. OTHER INVESTORS ESTER THE LIMTS. It was not to be expected that a busiuess which was capable of such illimitable expan sion would be permitted thus to remain forever in the hands of a single pernon. The patents held by Mr. Lockwood, it if. true, were ,m the way of any other adventurer in the same tielJ. But this ditliculty was easily removed by inven tive genius. As soon as the fact that paper collars were an ui qualified enccess became established to ?he satibta?tiuu ol the mon skep tical, other persons in different parts o" the country set themselves resolutely to tin task of inventing and patenting them. Theorigln d patent of Walter Hunt was sabse. quertly reissued to William E. Lockwood, in four separate parts, and dating from November 29, 18C4, to April 4, 1865. These reissues gave him the exclusive right to manufacture shirt collars First, "in which white paper is used to Imitate ctarched linen, and made of the desired shape by dies or formers, applied uuder pres sure.'' Second, "those composed of paper and muslin, or its equivalent, and polished or bur nished." Third, those so "made of a fabric composed of paper and muslin, or an equivalent, that the indentations will represent the stitches of an ordinarily dressed linen collar." And, fourth, tbose made as above, and "having a smooth white surface coated with transparent varnish." Mr. Lockwood himself took out a patent on the 2tith of April, 1859, which was subsequently reissued in four parts, dated June 6, 18G5, as follows: First, for "an embossed collar or cuiT, made ol a fabric composed ot paper and m islin, or an equivalent;" stcoud, for a collar or cuff ornamented with plain or colored devices, printed upon the surface;" third, when orna mented by perforations; and fourth, when orna mented by the interlacing of colored tapes or ribbons. His first rival in tho field was Mr. Solomon S. Gray, of Boston, who procured a patent on the 14;h of April, 18G3, for a "paper collar struck up or pressed from a flat piece into any desirable form." On January 17, 186i, Mr. Gray also re ceived a patent lor a "cloth aud paper collar struck up or pressed from a flat piece into any desirable form." Other patents were likewise granted him for the process of turning over or "molding" the collar on a defined line, whether accomplished by a die or pointed instrument, or by bending the collar over a block of the proper shape; and for various other processes in con nection with their manufacture. The ln4t of these patents bore the recent date of January 23, 1866. It was about the time of Mr. Gray's first patents that the business ot patenting collars came to rival that of manufacturing them From 1864 to January, 1861, but three patents for paper collars bad been taken out, aud the siime number only for machinery for their manu facture. From this last date, however, up io August, 1864, over ninety new patents affecting paper collars were granted. Since then they have been so numerous that no one has taken the trouble to enumerate them. WARFARE AMONG TBI INVENTORS. As a matter of course, the claims arising under tbose various patents were found to con fuel in macy instance, while the ingenuity of counsel skilled in the law was not lacking to ooiure up imaginary c onfilcts. The result wus one of the longest and mot bitter litigations of thiii character on record. The uost accom plished patent lawvers iu the muntrv were ur- I rayed on the opposite sides. Tho newspaper! j teemed with manifestoes from the rival inven tors, one party threatening vengeance in the shape of damages on all who were guilty of an infringement, while the others hurled defiance In their teeth, and summoned their retainers and customers to the conflict. The deeds of prowesj which have been accredited ti the Venetian Knights of the Collar were entirely outdone, with this important difference the modern battle-ground was tho forum instead of the open field, and the warfare was one of word instead of sword. The result was precisely t,uc'a a one as might have ben guessed at. Auer ten of thousands of dollars had been transferred to the pockets of counsel, the principal parties to the quarrel came together a few months ago In an amicable spirit. Hands were shaken all around, the la v- yers wore dismissed for the time being, all legal proceedings were forthwith stopped, and a grand corporation wa formed, under the title of TUB CNION PAPER COLLAR COMPANY. The owners and claimants of the several patents took stock in this Company according to the assessed value f their patents, assigning to the Company in return all the right, title, and interest that they held in them. They then took out individual licenses from this Company, by which they were authorized to manufacture collars of a certain chararter and to a certain extent, paying In return therefor a slipula'-ed royalty. This grand Collar Company is organized under the laws of Xew York, with a capital of $3,000,- 000. Its Board of Directors include the princi pal collar manufacturers In Philadelphia, New Yrk. and Boston. Their present object aud purpose h to commence prosecutions against all who manufacture paper collars without first ob taining their bnense, and paying them a royalty in return. Thus far they have licensed the lollovLig establishments, eighteen iu number, and scit- tercd throughout the Union: W. E. A E. i). Lockwood, Philadelphia. American Molded Collar Cotv.puny, Boston. Keversible Collar Company, Boston. F. A. Hawley A Co., Boston. Metropolitan Collar Compnnv, New York. (Joldsruith, lloitmnn & Co., Ne York. George B. Lumb, Boston. ura.v A Aoons, rioston. Boston Paper Collar Manufacturing Co. upauv. Boston. Ray & Taylor, Sprinirtie'd, Mass. Auarew a. hvans. boston. George B. Cluett, Bro. 4 t-o., Trov, New York. Norwich Paper Collar Compuuv, Norwich, Conn. American Machine Company, N'e .vburyporr, Moss. Rice Brothers. Boston. Enamelled Collnr Companv, New York. Congress Collar Company, Chicago. Nonpareil Paper Collnr Company, Spriiitiel?, iUaup. The first six e,abli.shments on the above list are operating at present on a cao.tal of about half a million of dollars each, the remainder being content to do business oa a smaller scale. The joint capital represented by the "Union Paper Collar Company" and its several licensees amounts at present to about $7,000,000. Th number of nanus employed io the different establishments is about tifteen hundred, a-nd nearly all ol these are women and young girls, who find the work both light and ctean. It is impossible to make au exact e.-iiuateof the amount and value of the goods no w man n'uc tured yearly, but it it certainly bet veeu $1,000,000 and ,000,0U0. From these stat istics it will be seen that the manulacture-of-paper-colmr trad.: is one of tno most extensive manufacturing interests in the country. MOW PAPER COLLARS ARE MADE. The process of mauuiuctiuing paper col'.nrs is a very interesting, yet a very siuiple one. It differs materially in the two clase ol collars those composed of paper alone, and thoae in which paper and muslin are combined. But the process of combining tue papor and muslin is a very delicate one, and requires machiuery ot the most accurate aud costly description. The tine gloss, which is a noticeable feature of the best made c oil a is, ii given iu part by the use of an animal sizing, formed princi pally of glycerine. omo of tho interior collars receive a high polish from an application ot arsenic or carbonate of lead. Both these sub stances being of a poisonous character, dele terious effects have resulted from weanug col lars into the mauufacture of which they have entered. But they are at present used only by tbose irresponsible persons who do not affix their name or trade mark to iheir products. A further polish la imparted, by passing the paper in sheets between two heavy rollers. These move with different velocity, and one of them is so highly chilled that a steel wire could be passed over it without fracturing the surface. It is likewise kept at a high decree of heat by a current of steam which continually passes through it Those in use in the establishment of the Messrs. Lockwcod, In this city, are very nicely adjusted to each other, to accomplish which lequlred the uninterrupted labor of one man for three successive months. A single sheet of paper can be made to bring the machinery to a stand, although it is propelled by a forty-horse-power engine. Bypassing the sheets of paper through this machine, again and again, any degree of polish required can be imparted to ft em. The t istes of the public vary In this matter, but at present they are satisfied with the polish effected by two impressions. When the fabric is thus prepared, several tbicktesses ot it are placed under a die driven by powerful machinery, by mans of which the outliues of the collar uie cut by a single stroke. T work any of these machines two operatives alone are required, and 210,000 can be produced by them in a single day. The next process is that of embossing the edges, iu imitation of machine stitching auJ of imprinting the size of the collar and the trade-mark of the manufac turer upon it. This is accomplished at one operation. One girl can teed with case a machine which will emboss 10,000 collars In a day. The collar at this stage is also ready to be passed through other machines, which Imprint upon it variously colored designs, or produce an iin pression which resembles marsellles, linen, or any other fabric desired, The button-holing is also accomplished at a single operation, three nicelyadjurted knives descending with grrcat force upon the collar, and with such rapidity that 1000 per hour can have the finishing touch this imparted to them. The collars are bow perfect, and only require to be folded, asforted, aud conn'od, before being packed away in boxes ready lor the market. The folding us perhaps th most ingenious ope ration to which fbej are subjected. If they are AIJGUOTJ5, 1866. folded on a stra'ght line they will Invariably pucker on the Inside, and be thus rendered unfit for use, or at best very uncomfortable. But by the manipulations of a curiously devl-ed piece of machinery, the fold is made on a curve; and when the collar Is subsequently passed between two rollers, for the purpose of preening the fold down evenly and diving Hachoular form, its inner and outer surfaces are formed info htcs of two concen'ric circles, which cause it to fit nicely and comfortably to tho neck. THE GOOD T1.ME COMINO. Such, in brier", Is the process by which are produced the neatest au I most perfect collars ever Invented. As mon as their merits wera made known to trie public bv business enter prise, they became Immensely popular with ah classes. People of all sues, sexes, colors, and conditions are addicted to the wearing of them. The man who docs not wearthein may be set down either as an old fogy, or as haviug a car buncle on bis neck. The paper cnfT is alo becoming popul-ir, and prpcr booms are mude, although not exten sively worn at the presant writing. We see uo reason why the process of doing a man up in paper should stop just here. For a thousand years the Japanese have blown their noses on paper handkerchiefs, and pro tected their hpads from the drenching rain by the use of paper umbrellas. Pauer shirts and paper stocklues should certniulv come next iu order. When that day arrives, the proverb thst a nicely gotten up young man looks as if ho had just emerged from a bandbox can be reversed, by saying in-tend that be looks ns if he had just tuned into one. CLOTHING. 3AJIUAINS1N HSU CLOTHING. EO0KHI1L & WILSON, "BF.CWN STONE CLOTHING HALL," xes. CC3 ana (i05(HKSMJT Street. Hew Stock at the Lewest Prices. tlavlris; old out our Stock of Clotblnz for Geut'omon and Boye, carried ov.r from toe Ute Are. our entire stock Oi FAi-HICNABLK RBaDY-MADE Cl.OTIIIXfl IS TUB NEWtT, AS OUR PRICES ARE THE LOWEST, MAGNIFICENT STOCK SOW BEADY, 1 O fiCIT KVKRYBODY. i ustom Department. Our rewlv fitted no Cuttom Uepnrtmen now conuinq tie lurgtRt innoituicnt ot a'i the c oahiouuu.e .Ne 1 uiirlcs tor our putroi to select lro.ii. SUITS, CIVIL ANt, MIi.Il IKY, V, arte np to order vrompilv, in the highest style an j at uioutruie prices. BOYS' CLOiniSti. Iu this Depai tmcnt our Htcck is ol-o nnrvaJled. The Best in the City, at the Lowest Prices. OHDEKS I . XE CUT E D AT THE SHORTEST NOTICE. THE CHOICEST STOCK OF READY-MADE CLOTHING IN PHILADELPHIA. B0DKHIiL& WILSON, " lUiOWN STONti CLOTHING 1ILV Xcs. m ar.d G05 I HKSMJT Street, V!0'rpj ' rtllLADEJ.IMIH. gATES UNION CLOTmNQ HALL, 606 MARKET Street, 60S Visitors will and a laree ar.d vaned assortment ol the veiy best KkADY-M ALUS CLOIilINu at the lowest curb prices ' Sulla, containing Coats, 1 anis, and Vest, from S12 00. II osiers, t2 25 ) bi.tk lri ui S3 10 and higher. Con.e ai u convince yourselves. iSSl 8m AUCTION SALES. CHARLkS C. MACKEX, AUCTIONEER. NO. 32fi A1AKKE I Htrcct. between Third aud Fourth. Ha'e on Tuesday mornlns, t sharp 9M o'cluck CRu( KEBY AND OUBSWARE A lame asi-ortnu n In tpeu lots, suitable fo.'Citvand Counirv licuU htoreko-pera EMiLl 11 GRANITE WAKE. Ono oatc leas and LUfteea. (mo crate Tea htta. Oue crate Flutes. One crate do. f! C. To he sold in open lota BKKH MVOS. TUMHIKRS, Etc. Also, leer Mutt, Bar and Table Tumblers, Wines, eto. ; 8 4 it PANCOAST A WARNOCK, AUCTIONEERS. HW No. MU VlAHKKT Street B SCOTT. JR., AUCTIONEER. .No. 1020 t.'HKBKTJT HTREKT. 6 '21 FURNITURE, ETC. HOUSEKEEPERS. I have a lare stock of every variety oi FlJltNI'l UlthJ, Which I will eell at reduced prices consisting of H.A1N ANU MARBLE! TOP COTxaUiS bUITd. WLM)TV''.HltH UlT VARi OR Kim IN VEI VftP 1LU3H. F Ah LOR 811 UK HIK CLOTH. FAMOR H'lTH IS REFS. Hldeboards, xteudlon Tab ea, Wardrobes, Bookoaeea, lsitr.ses, LouUfct., etc eie. P. P. OU8TINB. 81$ X.B. comer HKi OXD and BK'K Streets. jpUHSI'l UKE REDUCED 'J WI2NTY-FIVE PIt CENT. iM'rlng the Summer Season, we will sell from ourim . mense Mtock oi FIRST-CLASS FURNITURE. AT A REDCCTK N OF TWENTY-FIVE PCB CENT. FF BKOULaR PRICES. GOULD & CO., N. E. corner NINTH and MARKET Street, And also at the New Fstab lsument, J106D os. J7 and 39 Norm SECOND Btree yiSlTIMO AND WEDOINQ CIROS, WRITTEN, ENGRAVED, AND PRINTED. The Latest London and Paris Styles. INITIALS VONOCBAVH. CBfcST. ARMS, EiC, LlAMFtl ON FaPKH AN K VfLOFES, IN COLO list, OR .Tie. The Finest English, French, and Ameri can Paper and Envelopes. MONOGBAU8, ABM, CRESTS, Desifued and En- ,rVSi'TINO D1E8KH, TRAVEIXf WO rA-fl. POBr. rOLI'. FOi KKr-BO K", KNIVES, BACKOAlt UON BO HDK. andavery lanra stock ot FINK rVf ATIONMHY. R. HOSKINS & CO , BTATI9J.2KS AND CARD ESORAVER8, i sstarp Ko. 013 ARCH Street. PERSONAL. 0 SOLDIERS ENTITLED TO EXTRA BOUNTY! EXTRA BOUNTY! EXThA BOUNTY! EXTRA BOUKTY! T Soldier' Widow. FMiber, Mo then, nrtilhrrn, Mlxor rhtidrwa. OWENS A CO. Hat collected CUIms with preater tiVction than an? Ann In tho basineti. OCR MOTTO IS TROUP r.N F.N AND ACCCBACT. Bcoiiy 1 111 just pueil gtc a'l toldlert who en. feted for brce yen since April IS, IHtil an. rcrved their mil urni oi ieirlie, r were dls -turned before the rzplratloa ol mid tot m oi oervlce on account of wouod or other aiml.llliy incurred in oe Hoe of duty, ana received one tunfrca dol'ari boantv, and no more, now entitled louDtxT lounty of one T) an died dollar. Widowa, Failure, siotti.ra. Brothers, Muera. and Minor Chil dren of dictated tnldlers uo enllatl tor three years as above and died in the service, or irom dlxeeoe or aoaoda coatiaced In the service and Uie of duty, are enllUed to the above ex Ira one hundred uol.ars. Io be obtained promo. lr bt ca Una- npon OWENS & CO., So 8.1 CIlEHStjTRireet, Hecond a orv. front room, 7 31 "J Opunatte State House. S. B. Application' by mall prompt y attended to. BOUNTY OT 18GG. . ATTENTION, BOYS IN BLTTJfi ! Having two offices in Washington we are well pre pared to receive and Heot ail o alms tor f stra Uoantr now dne toldlcra You will cousu t yoor interest by CtlllDs.as I p.etlfce myself to col.eot al. uiauns a dnst tbe Cul-fd Htates Oovernmeut at lower rates and quicker tbnn any otber e attii ent lu ihls city No cbaryes made In advance. I. Ji. JOSNPH, 811m) UNION CLAIM AOh-NCY, No 271 Couth TU RD .street, aboe 8 pruoe. BOUNT Y. -SOLDIERS WHO SERVED Ibree eurs nnd received onlj aioo bounty can low ictilve unci her a (M. i he parents nldowu aud m nor cLudrcn of Uie hmuib dam oi soldiera are eutitled to alii" hoiuern dielnr(ied on acomtnt o wojihIs uom tbree-ifar rexinnii. are ent tied to 100 addl t imi. I li discbaiyeu lot wounds troin refcimouts snrr liiH twovears orltss, to . 'llie neiiioi ao.dlvroiierving In irMiiieuts trt-anlzia lor tso tars, or lesfl, can re cover !'. Imeliaifceil soluleis iu ttiu couutrv can lor vard Die llielr ili Lories, and hens oi Midler., can ir te, slating partlcula s oi their cases, und tliey will have p. ouipl attention. Apply to J'IIS M P MKROV. f 2 lin No. Ml H. F.il'RTH Wrcet T NNSYLVANI A RESKRVKS WHO SERVED J. ihri e veiirs and did not ro-eulist aro all entitled to alio lujiintv. Also, Die hells t nil v, bo died In the service, r were li-chn-ved lor wounds. I have rolls of tbe Reserves. ipply to, or adlre$ s nding olscbarue J 'UN M lOtfi.KtiV, , , , No. 2Ji 8 KOI, It i II street. 8 2 lm Jormerl? FaytnaMtcr Feniii-yivania Reeor.es. BUT IF YOU WANT COOD TEA. CALL AT WlL'OVs 'd established Tea Warehouse. No. 216 CHt..' NUT Mreet rPHE FIN EisT BLACK TEA IN TUB UNITED -I Hntes fur talc at WILhON'h ten YVmehuuse. No. 21)6 ( lii UT Street. 1 rice fcl 0 per pouud OUR $1 -CO CLACK TEll CONSIDERED ry old la-t Indian mri lis tits and other ex Do ner ced jni tes, to he the flnei-t M'eciineu o eu that ban been linpuited into thl counirv tor nearly nineteen j ears. Aedrers urders to W 1L&ON '8 lea Warehouse. No 2iiG C H Ei N U T 8 treer. T3IU1, FRAGRANT DOLLAR TE4. AT WIL XV frON'S I e W alehouse, So 21HiCHmNUf Street. TP AIR QUA LItF liLACK 'tEAB0AN D 00 JJ cints at WlLsuN's. "WILSON'S HHCES FOR FKA Hfi. Hi), AND yV 90 cents, 1,?1-10, $1-25, Slu, iH0, 1 60, aud OA CENTS. ROASTED COFFEE. A LITTLE AV7 broken, but vcr good a: WiLsuN'd. BEST ROASTED COFFEES-20, U0, 35, AND ccms, at VV.LSON'B. 1 F YOU AHE UNARLE TO (JET (JOOD TEA A. irom your Rfcer, seud to WILSON'S. I' YOU WANT TO TASTE PURE OLD JAVA JL Coffee 40 cents per pound, send to WILm o'. S'S. rpiIOPG WHO 1 OVE GOOD TIOA AND ARE J. able io spprecluie li can olirnln It at WII.-oN lea WLn house. No. 26 Cll .M'T treat The la n 'lea in ev York or 1 LI uuelplilii that can euaat our tl CO lilaik. .' . 1, We bare no i blec Ion to sup,i!ylnit those ot our I hlludelohla 'ill eaers who buv lor ca-h, with our toed 'leas with be s hitlc exception o our aiijo Is ai'K, as that Tea when sold canuol oe 'colnceii for an uibney. We ha I reserve thut oi our own regubir real trde. It is like tliruwln pear:s bo ore swlue to tel fucIi nmiiiilf.cent leaas thai toptopewho cannot aupriclute IU Adi'res WlLtON'3 OLD 8 . AHLI8HKD i A ' AKI- IKJUtlK, 7 27 1m No. 230 CUt-sUUr Btreet. THE EYE AND EAR. JJFAFNESS, BLINDNESS, THKOAT, LUNG, AND CHEST DISEASES CATARRH AND ASTHMA, I'lsordcred Functions ol TUE DIGESTIVE OROAN9; MORBID AFFLCT10MJ OV THE LIVER, WEAKNESS OF NERVES, AND GENERAL DEBILITY OF THE WHOLE SYSTEM, Treated with nnprtcedented suceess by Dli. VON MOSCUZISKER, No. 1031 WALNUT Street. 1 he lollovlDg Ol NTLlMKN.who have lately been curtd Under the trt utnient of Dr. VO.S JWO-x. llZl.s Rl li hi ve kuidl) pe uiitted liiin to le er to ibeon, and they wiuld y ad y bear texiiiuonv to tbe amouut w LtfcH i derived troin bis TRr ATM t.H i t- l.Jb. CCl;ERY, 1 sq.. No. 2K) Vi a nut street. HUUM iKi it, Ihu., So. JbSH Wainut sueot. ALAN WOOD. Jr.,tsq,No 41!) Arch strain C. 1. I.K' I N, 1 si;.. So 2 .Nonh eveulh street I J J.OLLOWAY, I si. So fM Market atr-et. J. I On ft: It lq,.No I SoTih frout streot. Dr. DaVUSON,N. W. coiner oi Minb and Chesnnt st n els General Kli BURN V. 8. A., Otrard street I . W. v Et-M.V, Esq., U. S. Aasossor ot the Hecond Dbtrlct i. II A 11 Y, Eq I'lesldent ot the Nineteenth Ward I'nbllc Schools Rev. 8. U.H AR'. Philadelphia Conference Lumiredsot' other nsuies, a I perilous who wou'd be car. m: conscientious to whom they would peruiit the l doipi inent oi their names, can be exauiiuej at Ilia. OFFICE. No 1031 WALNUT Streot, THE ATOMIZER. Dr. VON UOSCRZIsKEK asserts wlih the ntmoat CLiiUdeuco tl at his ays em ol trea Idu Li Ntl ihRO.T, CUI 8T Disea es. CATARRH, AS HMt! auu ail uialauies of the di(es ive organs, by the use ol tie AlOVii.tR la ihe only reliolilo one. Hlnce the introduction ol this svstim cases bave been brjuvbt io hla ollce. No 1(31 WAi. IT S.reet in which every other possible means have oeen irultleasly eui p eyed, but rei.dl'y y leideil to his trea uient lit AiOVlZt.Rwsn AFPRViUS cunstructed on clentlLe principles, which by a mechanical arrange n.n.. either by atniospbeno presxure or steam, uon vtrls sny medic ne into a fine HfRAY. and readl r conveys It li i o he BHONCHlL 'UBISo.' LUMl' lih the RESPIRATORY URRKNT. The mcdfcluea sulmititd to the action ot tula APPARATUS Iom no bin g ot their tliE.ICAL VALUK. as in other P'ei aratioua. but are received Into iim KE8PIBA l'",V OUQAN8 In ibeu lu.l AIEDICLNAL , tURolCAL OPERATIONS 0"f THE ETE AIL ClililAL OPERATIONS on the Eye such aa Catsraei, Artlnelal lupll, cross eus , akll air pel tanned. j j5rp pATENTWIRK WORK rOl RAI1UUH, 8TORt FRONTS, GUARDS, PARTTTTOS8. 1ROB BXDKTEjDH AND W1BE WOKS, la variety, nanvtaa ored by M. WALKER & SONS' UI rtBBUT8 6txW.
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