ffriginal elnuniunitatirats. IMPRESSIONS OP EUROPE,—No, 11, Ireland—Arrival—Groves of Blarney—Lakes of Killarney—Beggars— Cabins—Dublin— Civil Lord Lieutenant—Toni Moore's Library —Sunday in Dublin—Paddy's Opera The little steamer that came out of the harbor at Queenstown, to take off the mails and such of the passengers as- chose to land in Ireland, had on board the agent of the Inman line of ships, to which ours belonged ; and this gentleman, learning that we bad two United States Senators in our party, was extraordinarily civil to the whole company. Instead of allowing us to go up to Cork by rail, as most naturally we might have done; he determined to take us to that city in the little steamer. He could not relieve us, however, from the annoying examination of our trunks, which took place as soon as we touche.d the wharf. lam bound to say though that the examination was merely formal. The trunks were all unlocked, and a hand thrust into each— and a few questions asked as to whether ,we had any revolvers (!) or cigars or tobacco, and after a general reply in the negative (literally true in my case), and a shilling or so for the trouble they had ,t,aken, we were allowed to proceed. The harbor at Queenstown is very large, with fine depth of water. Several naval vessels were lying here, and two or three transports 'of great size,, filled with troops. The trip up the river Lee to Cork was delightful. The shores were lined with villas and beautiful residences—the banks high and well wooded, and the polite agent described, it all with true Irish enthusiasm; so that to us, just liberated from the confinement of our sea voyage, it seemed almost like Paradise. The tide was low at Cork, but we made our way over the paddle-boxes to the wharf, and then with no little difficulty throUgh the crowd to a 'Bus, as it was called, an uncommonly hearse-like conveyance. The crowd was 'great—of idlers, not unusual at every public landing place;and of people (chiefly women) with a great variety of things to sell— but especially of beggars. This was our first experience with beggars. Their pertinacity, theii unbelief of our repeated refusals—or of our' re peated shouts that we had no pennies, was won derful. 'So they followed us to our hotel, where at last we found refuge. Every thing here was strange. The quaint old 'city, the'strange-look lug houses, the jolly-looking jaunting-cars--the unameriean look about the hotel—everything we saw filled us with wonder. The dining-room, or coffeelrooin '(there are no dining-rooms in this part of the world) was on the first floor, and on a level with the street. As we sat at table, a crowd of people, mainly children, gathered in front of the window o and made their observations, much as our people of same class would at'seeing a company of Chinese at dinner. Of course this afforded rich amusement to the young people of our party. The next morning we set off in the funny jaunting-car to Blarney Castle, six miles from Cork". Surely nothing Could be more delightful than that ride. The road was turnpiked' or Mao: admixed, and as smooth as a floor. Tor most of the way, very large limes and beeches overhung the road, forming an arch or bower; the hed,ges were thick and luxuriant, and beantifully shaven,. and flowers of many kinds _lined the way. , The hawthorn hedges, in full bloom, some white, some pink, were especially beautiful, and the air was . heavy with their fragrance: Blarney Castle is a fine 'old ruin, built in the fifteenth century, by the Countess of Desmond. It 'has a massive tower or donjon keep,l2o feet high, and 'this part is better preserved than the rest of the building; but the roof, the floors, are all gone! The stairway to the tower is stone,' a:dnoirably constructed Of spiral for M--and the tower itself is full of all manner of nooks'and cohers, little cells' and vaulted ceilims, all of stone. The' windows all gothic, and, what is left of the walls; battlemented and pierced for throwing stones or shooting with the cross-bow, so that before gun powder was introduced into warfare, this plaee must have been considered almost impregnable. Of course we all kissed the Blarney stone, of which it 1,9 paid : • There is a stone there, That whoever kisses, 'Oh! he never misses To grow eloquent. The pleasure-grounds surrounding the castle, which were formerly adorned with statues, grot: toes, kc., are still Very beautiful. The walks are beautifully laid out, the trees very old, and in fine condition ; the caves, natural and artificial, And the stairways from terrace to terrace, almost ,hidden, by overhanging rocks and trees, were all well calculated to impress the spectator with an ,idea of Arhat a, lovely place it must ha4e been, ,aatonglitese " Groves of Blarney," when the castle was occupied, and the lord of thp_ manor held high stat,e,bere. .Returning to Cork., we -visited the Roman Catholic kathedral, but saw nothing of interest except.a memorial monument to Bishop England, the first Catholic. Bishop of Charleston, S. C. I copy part, of the inscription, for the benefit of any.lrish ;readers of the AMERICAN PRESEY -IEILIAN,.WfrI4O disliked the colored people. body: sleeps in a distant grave, wet with the tears of the.orphan and the negro." Bishop England was consecrated in this cathe dral. Then we went to the Episcopal church of St. Ann at Shandon, famous for its chimes, and we heard them strike the hour. We climbed to the belfry, and then to the top of the tower, 120 feet, and had a fine view of the city and sur rounding country. That afternoon we took the cars for the Lakes of Killarney, and passing through the village of the same name reached the hotel on the lake, and had a good supper, of which broiled salmon formed no inconsiderable part, at about ten. o'clock. Next morning, Wednesday, June 2d, we awoke to find a thick mist, which soon turned to rain, and threatened to deprive us of our ex cursion round the lakes, but after an hour's delay the clouds broke a little, and we,set out. The first part of our excursion was by launting car to Kate Kearney's cottage, where, we took ponies. At this point we were beset by at least fifty people—men, women and children, all beg gars. Some were trying to help us" mount the ponies—some tried to sell photographs of ,the cottage—some tried to sell tts drink,.a bottle of whiskey in one Sband, pitcher of goat's milk in the other—a// wished to go with us on the jour ney, one to lead the , poney, another to follow, holding onto the cruppe, all wanted money, but • money. The mingled crowd of ponies and peo ple, their chattering, sometimes English, oftener Gaelic, made .a scene as striking as it was new. With no little difficulty we extricated ourselves from the mass, and trotted off. But we did not escape entirely. There was an average of two persons to each pony through the whole route from the beginning—and then at intervals of two or three hundred yards, fresh reinforcements would start out on us from behind the rocks, offering for sale the same articles, and begging for money. The pleasures of the ride was greatly marred by the incessant deMand for money. It is surprising how easily these people can keep pace with a horse. They trot alongside for miles . with perfect ease. We had not gone far until the rain began to fall again, but we were well protected by water-proof coverings, and we did not mind it. The only trouble was, , that the view was somewhat shortened. Our pony ride 'was about nine miles, through the pass of Dunloe —wild,.grand, beautiful scenery; and theie we found boats with lunch,'which was quite accept able, returning through these lakes some fifteen miles, to our hotel. The pass bet Ween two' of these lakes is that valley of which Illoore writes "There is not in this wide world a valley so sweet, As the vale in whese bosom thy bright waters meet.' Need I add that we sang it in our boat, and to Tom Moore's.own music? The lowest conditions of life we have yet seen met us to-day. The common people live in, wretched, hovels, often built of mud, thatched roofs, ,reaching nearly to the ground, filthy, be yond belief in all their surrounding, with-pools of barn-yard, liquid before many a door, so that those passing in, and out must meeds wade through it. Such houses have rarely more than one win dow, and that a very small one near. the door.' We saw villages ,of houses such as I have de scribed. Never, have I seen such habitations for, human beings. After resting half, an hour, at the hotel, we took the jaunting-car again to Muckross Abbey,,another, fine ruin, constructed as a religious house, and adapted for defense also. The cloisters are quite perfect here, in the form of a quadrangle,, and there is, in the mid dle, a yew tree of great age,, said to have been planted by the monks. The abbey was founded in 1440, repaired. in 1602, and dismantled by Cromwell, who had little reverence for such places. The ruin consists of the abbey and the aura. , The different offices connected with abbey are still in a tolerable,statt of preservation. The ,large fire-place in the kitchen, is very in teresting. From Muckross we drove through the park belonging to ItheM.uc,kross Abbey man sion, the residence'of Mr. ,Iler,bert, M. - P., for the county. It is a, very i fine country, house, quite new. We were, allowed to drive near enough tp ,get a good view of the house, and through Mr, Herbert's grounds for miles, over, perfectly smooth hard roads, having fine views of two of the, lakes we had sailed over in, the morning, until we reached. ROBS castle, another fine old ruin, also destroyed. by. Cromwell. Here arc some :old guns, still m9unted, on the ram parts. The walls are almost ,covered with ivy, which grows here so luxuriantly, and the views from the, windows in the upper,part of the tower over the lake are most beautiful. Nothing, but the tower is shown here. The other part of the building is modern, and is shut up. It was nine o'clock when, we reached, our. hotel—though not at all 'dark—,but' the, day had been a long one, about twelve hours of ; travel in jaunting-car, saddle and boat. Tired as . were, we enjoyed our evening meal, and slept soundly. The next, morning we were " booked" for Dublin by the 10.30 train, and reached that city at 5.30 P. M. So far, all that we <have seen of , the country in Ireland is - beautiful. The verdure is bright green, the hills are rounded and smooth,, the valleys have streams of elear running water,. the roads fine, the stone walls and hedges ad mirable. But the poverty, the wretchedneis of the people are deplorable. The heart sickens at , such scenes as we saw every chiy. No intelli gence, no ambition to do better ,in life, no con sciousness of their deplorable condition. We drove to the Shelbourne hotel, in Dublin, PHILADELPHIA, THURSDAY, AUGUST 5, 1869. a very good house, and were well entertained. The proprietor, Mr. Goodman, is a Dutchman, and understands his business. There were sev eral titled persons in the house, the most distin guished of whom were the Earl of Gosford and Earl Carysfort. Having worked pretty bard since our landing at Queenstown, we thought this a good place to rest, so we determined to spend Sunday here. This would give us two full days for " doing" the city. . - First we went to Trinity College, founded by Queen Elizabeth, in 1591. James. I confirmed and extended the charter, and conferred upon it the privilege of returning two members to Par liament. Their election is by the fellows, scholars and other graduates of the A. M., or any higher degree. After looking through the library, which is 300 feet long, and- is said to contain two hundred thousand (?) volumes, and a very valtable collection of Irish, Persian, Greek, Arabic and other manuscripts; we met one of the students, a felloW commoner, whom we had seen at the hotel, who very kindly shoWed us through the college Ewa the college chapel. It waa Very curious `to see the students and pro-• fessors flitting about in gowns and= caps. The students reside in the college, and we had the opportunity of looking into 'their dormitories and study-rooms. The latter are extremely well fur nishedithough that depends on the means of, the occupant. After this, we went to the old Par liament House, now occupied by the Bank of Ireland, and noticed the many rooms of historic interest in the old place. In the Bank I met one of the 'clerks, an old man, who, when a boy, had lived in Philadelphia, and had a 'vivid recol lection of places and streets there. Then we drove to 'Phoenix Park, the Park of Dublin, containing 1600 acres, and the Zoolog ical garden, where they have a litter of young lions, which we did not see, and• have herds of deer, which , we did see. The Park is not well kept, many cattle belonging to the Government are Allowed to graze here. The , Vice• Regal Lodge, a very plain house, the residence of the Lord Lieutenant, is in: the Park—though he has suites of apartments in the castle also. We saw his carriage' one day in front of the Lord Mayor's honse. 'lt was an open barouche, with post•boys in tight pants and boots, fair-topped`, and 'with plenty of people gazing at the show. The chapel royal, in `connection with the castle, is .a beautiful structure. The carvings ire oak, which strike the eye everywhere, are particularly fine and rich, representing the •arnicnial bearings of all the. Lieutenant G-enerals who have served, here. Tile pews of the nobility are all in the gallery, and splendidly furnished,- while the -common people' worship down stairs! We reverse that order. • This, our guide said, was all we could see of the castle, but we were hardly satisfied with a look at the court-yard (through which we drove) and the outside walls, and I determined to see, if poseible, one of the towers. The guide said this was impossible, as it was never shOwn to stranger's. But I sent up word that an'Arneri can gentleman and three ladiesere below, who , w , wished to see m much of the castle as it was possible to show` to strangers. A servant came • down at once, asking us to walkup, where we were received in the kindest' manner by Sir B nard Burke, whose official title is "`Ulster . • King-at-arms," and Keeper of the ItecOrd Tower. Be very kindly showed us through the Record Tower, his Tower, he called it, where all the State Records of Ireland are kept ancientand modern ; gave us' orders of admissiOn to the Castle and to the Royal Irish Academy, a mus eum'of antiquarian curiosities; and when I said r i should try te' retain one of these orders as 'a memento of my visit, he took from ashelf a work written by hiniself, in two Octavo volumes, en titled " Vicissitudes of Families" (he is an' au thority in matters of heialdry), and presented it to me, with a few lines written 'on the fly-leaf, 'saying that the book was given in remembrance of a visit paid to him in his Record Tower by Mr. C., June 4, 1869. On hii order we were afterwards shOtin through the Castlii•With great pOliteness. ' t. ' The next day we went to the Royal Irish Aca deMy. In one: of the rooms is TOM. Moore's Li. brary—about two thougand' iolume.s--with his book plate:--a negro's head in a'crown with this legend, Fortis caderer cedere non Potosi': On the shelves were such books as Beaumont and Fletcher, Grattan; B l ei(Tonson, Mitforirs'Greece, Gibbon's Rollie, Runie's 'England, Prescott's Ferdinand and Isabella, &a. There is •a; bust of Moore and his portrait. In the .Museum there were many ,curious-relics, such as gold brooches, stone axes inserted in„ bone bandies, Bishop's croziers, crucifixes in, iron, ivory and. precious metals; stone images;swords, Scandinavian battle. axes and spear heads, and a great variety of anti. quities, illustrating, the early history of ,Ireland. A little shopping, concluded this day's work. . On Sunday we went early to church, to the College chapel, where the students are attired in their robes, and into which you cannot go with out an order. It was very interesting: to know that Goldsmith and Burke and Moore, arid many other names well known in Engligh literature and. English history had Worshipped • in this chapel, walked in these cloisters, read the books in this library and flitted about here in their scholastic dresses. The music here was indifferent, all male voices; the• sermon good, by Mr. Jelle4, one,of the Professors. After service here, we went to-Chapel Royal, but were five minutes too late. The.doors were, closed and could not be, opened. Our Principal object in' going was to see the Lord Lieutenant, but we learned af terwards that he was not present, so we lost no-. thing, for some friends who were there said the sermon was very poor. We went, therefore, to Christ church, where, for the first time, I heard the full church service intoned throughout ; in fact, everything intoned, except the lessons. Here the voices were highly cultivated and the music was very fine. We could not stay to the sermon, for the place was so damp and cold we thought it unsafe. In the afternoon, 3 o'clock, we went to St. Patrick's cathedral (Protestant) where the music was most exquisite—zall male voices, many of them boys. Besides the regu lar chanting, there were two anthems—the first selected from the sacred cantata " God is love," a recitative (tenor) and choras of Angels ; the second a quartette, selected from Haydn's Ora torio of the Creation, winding up with that grand chorus "The heavens are telling," &c., sung by that choir of forty or fifty voices all 'trained and cultivated to the highest degree. Certainly I never heard anything finer and grander than that music. The sermon was in different—a charity appeal. The congregation was very large, attracted by the music—for the town people call it "paddy's opera." In the evening I looked for a Presbyterian or Conine gational church, but our dinner hour had been so late, that the evening; church services were all ,over. And so passed our first Sunday in Eu rope. It Ought tiibe added regarding St. Patrick's ,cathedral that it is very old, having been• con structed in 1191. The: ground plan 'is cruciform, with nave, transept ,and choir all these having aisles. It was rapidly falling into decay, when a few years since, Guinness; the famous brewer, spent'a million of dollars Of our money) to res-' cue it from destruction. The banners and arms of the Knights of St. Patrick are hung and emblazoned over their stalls.which are placed against the walls on either side of the choir ; and back of the Chanel and at the head of the cross is a large . room for the order of the Knights of St. Patrick, And a throne for the grand-master. The Archbishop's throne is in the choir. peen 'Swift was some time Dean of this cathedral, and has his monument herS ; so has Curran a nionn ment also. ' • • • The next morning, Monday, June 7, we left in the " limited Mail for Belfast, where we spent a few, hours going through the flax mills, which ,were very interest,ing, and then on to Port Rush, where we spent the night—a very delight ful sea-side watering place. As I lay in my bed' next morning, the sun was shining r bright ; and . I could see, 'without raising ,iny head, the sea and the waves breaking on the rooks, and throw T . ing up the spray. It was a splendid view, such as I had never seen before. A ride of a few miles within full view of the Atlantic, and only a few hundred yards from, the beach, brought us to the Giant's Causeway, one of the most remarka ble of _Nature's' Works. -But thik has been so (Alen described that I may well omit it. But here were the beggars again, not quite so nu merous, but riot less pertinicious.' In Port Rush is a monuberit, a tall grenite shaft, to Adam Clarke; the Methodist Commentator, who was born within three ,miles .of the town. So after a day of great interest and pleasure we took the cars in the afternoon it elfast— . , and the night boat across the charinelfor Glasgow. B. B. C. GAMALIEL AND ITICODEMIIR. The Talmudic and early Rabbinical writings, of the Jews cast great light on many parts of the New Testament. Although: most probably not committed to writing until centuries after the destruction of Jerusalemond the final dis persion of the nation, they embody a vast num ber of facts and theories handed down from the times before , and after Christ. Like the Apocry phal Gospels, they furnish a,strong negative ar gument for the divinity and inspiration of the New Testament. We can point to the manifold absurdities and triflipgs of both the, pseudo- Christian and the Jewish writers, and say "such would the New Testament have been were it but the embodiment of the ideas and ' the spirit of the age,' asmodern skepticism asserts." Yet it is worth while to pick .out, the valuable : grains flora the great chaff-heap, and find intbe undesigned testimony of the Talmud, a confir mation of the truth of the nobler record. This we will do (at, secondhand of course) in regard to two New Testament characters. The G-anialiel who, is recorded, in the Acts of, the Apostles as giving wise and temperate advice in regard to the; suspensionof thepersecaton,of the Church, succeeded his grandfather, the great, Hillel, as the head of the Sanhedrin. Though a profound theologian, according ; to the . Jewish standard, he was more of a Herodian than a. Pharisee. His temperament , forbade his, being an enthusiast, either. in ,religion or politics. He was one of the men who always see two,sidei to every fact, and, was not indisposed . to wept Roman supremacy as, on the whole i not a •bad thing. As a matter, of course, Pharisaic •Teru .: salem grew too hot to hold him, and he removed . the theological school to Jamnia, a few miles to the west, where probably a young man, of Tarsus, Saul by name and Paulus by .cognomen, was kought,up,at his feet.. , He was, as might be expected; a man of fiber— al culturp. He was familiar with the Greek language and literature, arid with, what was known• of astronomy. -In•` various little ways he excited the; hostility of the Pharisees ; and evinced a' readiness to mingle with the heathen, which they re'garded as unorthodox.' %At Ptolemais (they recorded) he had -bathed in a place< where a statue of Venus had been erected, He had a figure carved on his own- seal, which was not the only indication that his love of the beautiful overcame: his regard for the traditional interpreJ tation of the . second commandMent. He made Ilse Of, his astronomical knowledge , in the compi lation of limar ,tables, to be used in testing.the truth of those who deposed that they had seen the new moon, upon whose appearance the time of the Passover depended. His Liberalism, however, was rather a fashion learnt by imitation from the heathen, than the outgrowth of any principle of spiritual freedom within. His actual teaching was rigid ad herence to the " traditions inherited from the fathers," while he had a horror of the wrangling captiousness of the Pharisees. When he died, it was said, with an oriental excess of expression, that "the glory of the law had departed, and general wickedness had spread among men." The "Nicodemus who came to Jesus by night" is described 'by the Talmudists as one of the three wealthiest men in Jerusalem. His name was originally 13onai, but was changed to Nico demus, in memory of a miracle wrought by his prayers. Yet after the destruction of the city by the Romans, his daughter was reduced to such pen urY that she was obliged to sustain life by gath ering particles of barley from the, ground. The atrabilious Pharisees did not .hesitate to attribute the change to some violation of the law, which is supposed to confirm the opinion that her fa ther was a secret convert to the Christian faith. TILTON LENSIS. CO-EDUCATION OF THE SEXES. There is nothing more to' be' egretted in the present agitation of the "Reform against Nature" than that it' calls away so much of public atten tion from real wrongs done' to the weaker six. There is not a blacker fact in the . whole record of the Woman Suffrage moVement, than that,' a woman was hissed dowtr at one of their meetings for saying that "woman suffering wasa more'im portant question than woman suffrage." • We need a new and organized:• movement in behalf of women, and an quite' a different plat form from that oflirs. Cady Staunton. Its planks might be, • I. Woman must be not only tolerated but sup ported in pursuing, every remunerative employ ment for which she proves herself fitted. ~11. She must, by the pressnre of public opinion, .be secured a monopoly of the employments for which she, alone is well fitted, these being espe the:care. of persons. 111. She must be defended by legal measures and at thii public cost, from. the oppression of swindlers, and in the possession and transmission of her own earnings IV. She must be securedta decent'and healthy home at a reasonable cost and through the co operation of wealthy citizens. V. She must have free access to every public institution of learning, not so much for her own sake as for the sake of the other sex. -On that last point I have had some experience. When a mere child I• began my school-life in a school where boys and girls learnt together. When I passed •to a school of, a higher grade, the same state of things continued. Some time later, and when I was about ten years old, my father re moved to another county. I was here sent to a school where the head-master was far superior, as a man and-a teacher, to any that I had hitherto been under. ,He commanded the respect and love of his pupils, where as the others had mostly won (and richly descried) the hate of theirs. But the boys here were separate from the girls, and the moral •character of the children was, to le, ut terly shocking. I remember the loathing that came over me when "the ice broke" and we Came to know each other. They were children of pretty much the same standing ° life as my earlier playmates and schoolmates, the sons of Presbyte rian farmers and linen-manufacturers, but the dif iference in greater matters was immense. My next remove was to a school in the suburbs of a small manufacturing city, kept by a poor shiftless, •reckless fellow, too much given to drink. His influence was neither very, great nor very beneficial; his pupils lived most of, them in squa lid streets around a factory; his school was the unused barn, of a tavern. But the boys and girls were together, and were, As a rule, more manly, courteous, pure and• upright, by- far, than those with whom I had last been associated. I. found by experience that the best part of education is that .which children can give each other,. and that God's wise ordinance by, which boys and girls ,grow up together in the closest, fellowship, cannot be set aside without danger to their moral health. My later experience in the public schools of this great city has convinced me of • the • truth of this principle As_regards both the sexes. My col lege experiences, both as student and teacher, have all tended to force upon me the same conviction. The separation of the sexes is ,a relic of the old monkish heresy, and can only bear the old pru rient fruits of evil: , As. to- the intellectual question, there is no doubt but that the other sex can hold their own ,with ours. Girls.learn things much faster than .boys, which just‘the reason that their learning does thetmless good. , They will be—and in my experience they have been— a fine provocative to ambition, tommarrliness i to honor and purity. 11..as,not their exclusion from West Point, ex .cept for a few weeks of the year, done much to make our National Military Academy the moral pest-house that it Does not their exclusion from our medical schools help to makc . our inci pient doctors the bears that they are? It takes years,of home life, ,o.repivilize them,' sometimes. Does,not . their sepfration , from mtic own sex in our public schools idiot on 'theM and on our `Boys an injury whibh 'DO mental'acquirement can make up for r INSTRUCTOR.
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