THE REALM I OF FASHION. | covßtfovsffoxiao^OovrroNsuowt'ooaooaovDuovjuowuoO' NEW TOIIK CITY (Special).—White point d'esprit is here stylishly trimmed with narrow satin ribbon, lace edging and insertion, ribbon of •uitable width forming the belt and YOKE WAIST AND GORED SKIRT. bows at the shoulders. The yoke and sleeves are formed with rows of the insertion put together with frizzed j baby ribbon, and the standing collar is made over a stiff foundation in the , same attractive manner, stylish pointed portious flaring behind the j ears. The graceful bertha is shaped ! in pretty equal points at the lower edge, and trimmed with the edging, insertion and lace to correspond, and the sleeve is finished with a flaring cuff. The skirt has five gores that are ) smoothly adjusted over the hips, the | BOX-PLEATED WAIST. fulness in the back being laid in pleats that meet over the placket in centre, or the fulness may be col lected in gathers, if so preferred. Two narrow lace aDd ribbon edged frills of the point d'esprit form the pretty foot trimming, the ribbon edged insertion being applied on the pointed outline, giving an overskirt effect. The mode is stylish and suit able for foulard, India and taffeta silk, cashmere, veiling, challie, per cale, organdie, lawn, gingham, dimity or any fashionable soft wool or cotton fabric. Plain or ruched ribbon, braid, gimp, insertion and edging of lace or embroidery may be chosen for garniture. To make this waist for a miss of fourteen years will require one and one-half yards of material thirty inches tfide. To make the skirt will require four yards of thirty-six or three yards of forty-four-inch mate rial. W»lit nf Whit. Persian Lawn. White Persian lawn and fine em broidered iusertion form the fashion able shirt waist shown in the large engraving, with which is worn a regulation white linen collar and a tie bow of wedgewood blue satin. Rows of insertion are stitched on smoothly between the box-pleats, the material being cut away from underneath. The pleats meet at the shoulder seams, under-arnj seams completing the simple adjustment. The fulness at the waist line is regulated by gathers between the box-pleats, and the fronts pnff out just a little above the belt. The shirt waist sleeves in newest shaping are decorated near the top with cross strips of insertion. The straight cufls may be made plain or trimmed with insertion, as shown. The belt of white kid is closed with a Kilt clasp in front. For satin, silk, taffeta, cashmere or other fine woolen goods, this style is de sirable, as well as for pique, lawn, dimity, gingham or other wash fabrics. To make this waist for a woman of medium size will require three and I one-half yards of material thirty inches wide. Fiwciei in Shlrt-Walstc* i The really swell thing is the pnre white silk or satin shirt-waist made in the greatest simplicity ot style, and is worn with a black skirt of net. White shirt-waists in cotton goods have the preference, manj being of fine lawn, tucked all over in bias or straight-up-aud-dowu or round-and round tucks. The severe linen waist of white, with cuffs and collar, is worn with the tailor gown having a cut away jacket in bolero style. Some ol the new waists show a cut-away at the neck, having fancy collar and revers with which are worn fancy-colored 01 white chemisettes.—Woman's Home Companion. Style* In Hair Drcg.lng. The Pompadour roll turned back entirely from the face certainly gives it a longer appearauce, but this may be lessened by a few curling locks over the forehead, and by keeping the hair at the sides well puffed out. Hair dressers wave the long hair, which is turned back on ordinary curling-tongs, wrapping each small strand of hair several times around the tongs and finally combing it out very gently.— Ladies' Home Journal. The Lnlest Collar. The newest collar does not wish to be considered a collar at all. It is simply a combination of the yoke, car ried up to the chin and turned over. In the back its height is regulated only by the hair. If that is dressed low the collar stops, but if the chig non is placed high it soars to the tops j of the ears. Material For llathliig Costume*. Oanotier ia a weave of French dress ; goods much used for bathing and , yachting costumes. Useful and Stylish Accessories. With a change in name from Spanish to French, these stylish accessories are again on the top wave of fashion. Their utility in concealing the worst portion of half-worn silk blouses affords one good reason for their re j vived popularity. Elaborate decora | tion is their prominent characteristic when intended for dressy occasions, while for ordiuary wear they may be quite plainly completed. No. 1 shows rich, dark-red broad cloth edged with a scroll design in black soutache braid. Stylish revcrs of white silk poplin roll back from the open fronts. The ''jacquette" is shaped by shoulder and under-arm seams, which extend to form stylish epau lettes over the dress sleeves. No. 2 is of black guipure lace, which may be made with or without a white or colored satin lining. The rounded edges are finished with quillings of lace to match. Satin ribbon or mous seline may be used with becoming effect. Dressy "jacquettes" in either style may be made from short lengths of brocade, velvet, silk or woolen fabrics, perforated broadcloth being much used in their construction. Applique of lace, embroidery or passementerie, ■WOMEN'S "JACQUETTES." all-over lace, braiding, spangled net, frizzed ribbon or gimp will make pretty finishings. To make either "jacquette" in the medium size will require one yard of material twenty-two inches wide. A Popular Dresk Material. A new canvas dress material of silk l and wool mixed bids fair to become very popular. Mnalln Gowns With Lace Yokes. Muslin gowns have transparent yokes of heavy guipure lace. DR. TALMAGES SERMON. SUNDAY'S DISCOURSE BYTI- E NOTED DIVINE. Subject: "Moral Expansion"—Oar Duty to the Heathem In the Philippine Islands —Suggestions as to What We Should Do For Their Religious Welfare. [Copyright. Louis Klopsch, 1899.] WASHINGTON, D. C.—ln this discourse Dr. Tnlinage steers clear of t'us political entanglements of our time and recom mends that which will meet the approval of nil who hope for the perpetuity of our republic and the welfare of other lands; text. Genesis xxvlii., 14, "Thou shalt spread abroad to the west and to the east." Slncethe Americano-Hlspanio war is con eluded and the United States Embassador is on the way to Madrid and the Spanish Embassador is on the way to Washington the people of our oountry are divided Into expansionists nnO, anti-expansionists. From a different standpoint than that usually taken I discuss this all-absorbing theme. I leave the political aspect of this subject to statesmen nnc 1 . warriors and pray Al mighty God that they may be enabled rightly to settle the question whether the Islands in controversy shall be Anally an nexed or held under protectorate or ro slgned to themselves, while 1 call attention to the fact that a campaign of moral and religious expansion ought to be immedia tely opened on widest and grandest scale. At the close of this war God has put into the bands of this country the key to the world's redemption. Heretofore the re ligious movement in pagan lands had to prucedo the educational. After in China and India and the islands of the sea the missionaries have labored over fifty or seventy-five years the printing press and the Becular school came in. Now to better advantage than ever before religious and secular enlightenment may go side by side, and so the work be accomplished in short time and more thoroughly. Starting with the fact that in Cuba and Porto Rico and the Philippine Islands at least three-fourths of the people can neither , read nor write, what an opportunity for school and print ing press! Within five years every man in those islands may be taught to read not only the Bible, but the Declaration of In dependence and the Constitution of the Unitod States and the biography of George Washington and of Abrahum Lincoln. It seems to me that the Government of the United States ought by vote of Con gress ailord common schools and printing presses to those benighted regions. Our National Legislature by one vote appro priated 550,000,000 to give bread and med icine to Cuba. Why not by a similar gener osity give 550,000,600 for feeding and heal ing the minds and souls of those Ignorant and besotted archipelagoes. In the name of God I nominate a school for every neigh borhood of Cuba, Porto Itlco and the Phil ippines. As soon as the gavel falls at 12 o'clock of next December 4 on the table of Senate and House of Representatives and the roll has been called und the prelimin aries observed let some member of our Na tional Legislature, with mind and soul aud voice strong enough to be heard not only through those halls, but through Christen dom, propose a measure for the mental and moral dlsenthrallment of the islands in jontroversy. What has made American civilization the highest civilization the world has ever seen? Next to the Bible and the church, schools, common schools, schools reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacille and from British America to Gulf of Mexico. Five yeurs under such educational advantage, and this whole subject that keeps our pub lic men agitated, some of them to frothing at the mouth, will settle itsolF. Give those Islands readers, spellers, arithmetics, his tories, blackboards, maps, geographies, globes. Let the State Legislatures at their next meeting, some of them assembling In early autumn, take parts of those Islands under their especial educational patron age. What is needed is State and National action in this matter of schools. Then let the editorial associations of the United States, as many of sucii organiza tions as there are States, resolve at the next convocation to establish in every re gion of those islands a printing press, sup ported by people of this country until It ;an become self-supporting. Each of these State Editorial Associations sendintr out to those Islands at least oneodltorand two reporters and enough typesetters, down will go the Ignorance and superstition of those Islands as certainly as the Spanish fleet under Cervera sank under the pound ing of our American battleships, and Into their every port will go Intelligence and ioveof free institutions as certainly as Into the harbor of Manila went Admiral Dewey Dn that lamous night when he was not ex pected. Hoe's printing press! Nothing Jan stand before Its bombardment. Ed itors of American newspapers and pub lishers of American books! Take the or dination for such a magnificent service. Eloquence on yonder Capitol hill cannot meet the exigency. Epigrams of political platforms or in State Legislatures will not hasten the desired consummation one week or one hour or one moment. When Cubans and Porto Itican and Fili pinos see the morning and evening news papers thrown Into the doorways and hawked along the streets of Havuna and Santiago and Manila, those who cannot read by the force of curiosity will learn to read, so that they may know what Infor mation is being scattered, and that which maybe missionary efTort at the start aud 3arried on bv Americans sent forth to do the work will soon be done by educated na tives. Porto llicans editors! Porto Rlcan reporters! Porto Rlcan typesetters! Porto Itican publishers! It was a great mercy to take these islauds from under the heels of despotism, but it will be a mightier mercy to emancipate them from ignorance and degradation. The expansion of the knowl edge and intellectual qunllflcitlon of ail thoso Islandy regions Is the desire of all in telligent Americans. Awake, all you schools and colleges and universities and printing presses, to your opportunity! Still further, here Is a wide open door for Christianity. First of all, we have the at tention of those people. The C'eathen nations aro for the most part soporific. The American missionaries heretofore had great difficulty in getting heathendom to listen. They excited some comment by their nttire, so different was the parting of the hair and the shape of the hat and the cut of the coat and the formation of the shoe of the evangelizers, but the questions constantly arose in regard to the mission ary: "Who Is he?" "What Is he here for?" And then the interrogator w.ould relax Into the previous stupid Indifference. But that condition of things hps passed. The guns of our American navy have awakened those populations. They do not ask who we are. They have found out. They nre now listening to what American civiliza tion nnd our Christian religion have to say on any subject. Now Is the time, while their ears aud eyes are wide open, to tell them of the rescuing aud salvable and in spiriting power of the Gospel of Jesus Christ, the Saviour of the world. The steam printing press which secular educa tion plants there may be used and will be used to print religious newspapers and tracts and sermons and mighty discussions of questions temporal and eternal. The comfortable homes of those popula tions, when Christianized, standing side by sido with the degraded huts of those who remain pagans will be revolutionary for good. The Porto Rtcun and the Filipino will come out from this uncleaned and low roofed and uninviting kennel and say to his neighbor of beautiful household, "Why cannot I have things as you have them?" And when he finds that It Is the Bible, with Its teachings on family life and persoual purity and exalted principle, and the ohurch of God that proposes the rectifica tion of all evil and the Implantation of all good, he will cry out, "Give me the Bible, and the churoh, and the earthly allevia tions, and the eternal hope which have wrought tor vou such transOauraXlon." Npw, church of God, now, all Christian philanthropists, is your opportunity. Nothing like it has occurred since Christ came. Perhaps there may be nothing like it till His second coming. Here is a de3n iteness of aim that is most helpful and in. spiring. The millions of dollars glVen for the redemption of the world and the thou sands of glorious missionaries who have gone forth among barbaric nations were given and enlisted under a great aud im measurable idea. But when they come to add to the great and immeasurable idea the Idea of deflniteness we will infinitely augment the work. More thau three hun dred million of heathen in India, more than three hundred million of people in China and more millions of heathens than can be guessed outside of those countries some times stagger and confound nnd defeat out faith. But here In these islands of present controversy we can farm out the work among the churches and in five years, undei the blessing of God, not only fit the peo ple for the right of suffrage, but pre pare them for usefulness and heaven. The difference between the general idea of the world's evangeliza tion and some particularized field of evangelization Is the difference between the improvement of agriculture a mong all nations nnd tho Improvement of seventy five acres put under one's especial care and Industry. By nil means let the gen eral work goon. But here Is the specific field for religious concentration and de velopment. This is not chimerical or Im practical. I read this morning that the American Missionary Association of the Congregational Church has already bogun the work at San Juan, (Jtuado and Albon lto, and all denominations of Christians in six months will bo in those islandy fields, and we all need with our prayers and contributions to cheer them onto tukefor God and righteousness those regions which our Amcrlcau navy has captured from Spnnish perfidy. It has been estimated that this Amerlco- Spanish war cost us 53(0,000,000. It would not cost half of that to proclaim and carry on und consummate a holy war that will rescue those archipelagoes from satanle domination. Who will volunteer? I beat the drum of a recruiting station. Who will enlist under the one sparred, blood striped banner of Immanuel? Cubn und Porto Rico and the Philippines are stepping stones for our American Christianity to cross over and take the round world for God. We need a new evangelical alliance organized for this one purpose. In all nominntions there are those with large enough hearts and who have been thor oughly enough converted to join In such an advanced movement—men who, putting aside all tho minor differences of opinion, "believe In God the Father Almighty, Maker of heaven nnd earth, aud in Jesus Christ His only begotten Son," and who would march shoulder to shoulder In such a Gospel campaign. The result would be that those islands, after such a soene of gospelizatlon, would assort themselves into denominations to suit themselves, aud some would be sprlukled In holy baptism aud others would bo Im mersed In those warm rivers and some would worship in religious assemblage silent ns the Quaker meeting house, and others would have as many jubilant ejacu lations as a backwoods camp meeting, and some of those who preached would bo gowued and surpliced for the work, and others would staud in citizen's apparel or in their shirtsleeves preaching that Gospel which is to save the world. Mark you well that statesmanship, how ever grand it is, nud wiso men of the world, however noble, cannot do this work. Mere secular education does not moralize. Some of the most thoroughly educuted men in all the world have been the worst mon. Quicken a man's Intellect,while at thesauie time you do not make Ills morals good, and you only augment his power for evil. Geo graphy and mathematics aud metaphysics and philosophy will never qualify a people to govern themselves. A corrupt printing press Is worse than no prlutlng press at all, but let loose an open Bible upon those Islands and let the apocalyptic angel once lly over them, and you will prepare them to became either colonies of the United Stntes Government, or, as I hope will be the case, Independent republics. God did not exhaust Himself when He built this nation. The islands will yet have their Thomos Jeffersons, qualified to write for them declarations of independence; and Georgf Washlugtons, capable of achieving their liberties; and Abraham Liocolns, strong enough to emancipate their serf doms, nud Longfellows and Bryants, cap able of putting their hills and their rivers aud their landscapes Into poems; and the Bancrofts and Prescotts, to make their his tories; and their Irvlngs, to write their Sketch Books; nnd their Charles O'Conors and Rufus Choates, to plead In their court rooms; aud their Daniel Websters and John J. Crltteudens, to move their Senates. The day cometh—hear It all ye who have no hope for those Islands of be-dwnrfed nud diseased illiterates—the day cometh when those regions will have a Christian civilization equal to that which this coun try now enjoys, while I hope by that time this country will be as superior to what It now Is ns to-day Washington nud New York nre better than Manila nnd Snntlngo. Do you see In this process of gospellzed Intelligence those archlpelngoes will as a nation be protected from the two woes propheclsed in regard to this country—the one woe propheclsed by the expansionists nnd the other woe propheclsed by the antl-expanslonlsts? It Is said by those who would have us take all we can lay our hands on as a nation that, unless we enter the door now open for the enlargement of our national domain, we will decline the mission which God In His providence has assigned us. But surely no woo will come upon us or upon them If we Christianize them ns we now have the opportunity of doing. The political tech nicalities are nothing as compared with the Importance of this movement. I im plore all political expansionists to aug ment us In this work of moral and relig ious expansion, for unless those islands are moralized and elevated In Intelligence and habits we do not want them, and their annexation would be political damnation. On the other hand, I Implore nil antl expnnstonlsts to take n hand In the gos pelizatlon of Cuba, Porto Rico and the Philippine The only way to pre pare them to take care of themselves Is tc give them the Ten Commandments that were published ou Mount Sinai und let them hear the groan of sacrifice that wai breathed out ou the heights of Golgotha What they most want Is the Gospel, the pure Gospel, the omnipotent Gospel, th« Gospel that helps heal tho wounds of the body and Irradiates tho darkness of the mind and achieves the ransom of the soul But ou this platform the so called ex' pansionlsts and so called antl-expnnslonistf will yet stand side by side. Though I ate not a prophet or tho sou of a prophet, within five years, If this religio-educatlonai work is properly attended to, there will b« a Cubau republic, a Porto Itican republlt and a Philippine republic, one of them oc n large scale, but they will all have tlieli schools and printing presses and evangell cal churches, their Presidents, their Senate) and House of Representatives, their Mayorf and their constabularies, and as good or der will be observed In their cities as nov reigns on Pennsylvania avenue, Washing ton, or Broadwav, New York. Christ has started for the conquest of tin natlous, and nothing on earth or in hell cat stop it. The continents nre rapidly rolllnf into His dominion, and why not these isl ands, which for the most part are onlj fragments broken off from continents, the Interval lands having been sunk by earth quakes, allowing the ocean to take mas tery over them. Each mother continent has around it a whole family of little conti nents. If tho continents are belug so rapidly evangelized, why not tho Islands? If America, why not Cuba and the Baha mas? If Asia, why not the Philippines and the Moluccas? If Europe, why not the Azores aud the Orkneys? If Africa, why not Madagascar and St. Helena. The same power that broke them off the main land can lift them into evangelization. MSR J V 11,I 1 , WHAT DOES IT MEAN? It means it is the purest made. Soaps, strong with alkali, will eat And burn the clothes, and leave them frayed, But Ivory Soap is clean and sweet. It washes out the stain and dirt, And leaves the fabric all unhurt. COPYRIGHT 111l BY THE PROCTER * GAMBLE CO CINCINNATI IM.covered Fishes Without Eyes. While blasting rocks to enlarge a reservoir near Union dale, a small pool af water was discovered under a great ledge of rocks. The water in the pool was a bright green, and when the mass of rock was taken oil it turned to a dark blue. Around the edges of the pool were strange mosses and ferns, which withered as soon as the rays of the sun encountered them. Through the crevices of the rocks ran great aud blue beetles and ants, and great horned snakes with hoods and double fangs wriggled around the edge of the pool. In the pool the workman found fishes with no eyes and having green scales. When lifted from the water they changed their color to a dark blue. When they encountered the air they gasped a few times and died. In the fissures of the great rock horned toads were found alive, where they had been for years. They lived only a few moments. The place had been visited by scientists, who are mystified at the singular find among the rugged hills of Susque hanna County. Eyeless fishes have been found but twice in Pennsylvania within a century.—New York Press. A New Doc Disease. A new infectious disease of dogs has largely been established. For a year now an extraordinary number of dogs have been taken ill and died in different German towns tinder very striking conditions. At first it was believed to be due to malicious pois oning, but it was soon discovered to be a malignant epidemic. From the observations of Herr Kurtz,veterinary surgeon at Stuttgart, it appears that the disease, which everywhere assumes the form of an (epidemic, is an infec tious disease of the nature of gastric catarrh, with bleeding connected with inflation of the mucous membrane of the mouth, which had never been known before. At Stuttgart at first seventy per cent, of the cases ended fatally, which number aiterward fell to forty per cent. The epidemic is now nearly over there; but at present the cause of the disease is utterly un known. Animals which have once had the complaint and recovered seem to enjoy a certain immunity, for no case ha 3 been observed in which a dog has been attacked twice. 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Nervousness, Sleeplessness, Sick Head ache, Flatulency and all internal pains. Malaria in It* Various Forms C'ure«l and Prevented. There is not a remedial agent in the world that will cure fever and ague and all other malarious, bilious and other fevers, aided by HADWAV'S PILLB, so quickly as RAOWAY'S READY KEIiILF. Price, ,50 cents per bottle Sold 1 y all l>ru«iffi*tN. RAIIWAY it CO., 55 Kim Street, New York. GREAT BARGAINS Columbia Bicycles for Women. Ladies' Columbia Bevel-Gaar Chainless, MODEL 61 1898 Pries $125. Reduced to $60.00. LADIES' COLUMBIA CHAIN MODEL 46. 1808 Price $75. Reduced to $42.50. These machines nre Columbias of the highest grade throughout and hear the Columbia guarantee. They are not shopworn wheels carried over from last year, but areot 1899 manufacture. Com pare them part for part with other bi cycles and you will llnd good reasons for the admitted superiority of Columbia quality. The stook of those models Is limited. If there is no agent in yonr locality write to us direct. POPE MFG. CO., Hartford, Conn. WANTED— Case of bad healih that K-I-P-a-N-S will not benefit. Send ft cts.to Hi pans Chemical Co.. New York, for 10sample* and 1000 testimonials. Happy II T rem ß edyfSr ßt ir 1 JOHNSON'S MALARIA,CHILLS&FEVER Grippe and Liver Diseases. KNOWN ALL DMI'CCIITi. tfvCb
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers