-The
A.IR
Grace Darling'* Tomb.
The tomb of Grace Darling has had
Bs stormy a history as the heroine over
whom it was erected. It is sixty years
since Grace Darlin died, and a hand
some monument was placed to her
memory in the churchyard of Bambor
ough, on the wild Northumbrian coast.
The grave and monument are plainly
to be seen from passing ships. After a
few years the effigy, which represented
the heroine lying down with an oar on
her arm, looking towards the island
where she achieved fame, began to de
cay, nnd was removed to the interior
of the church. Not long after this was
done, the roof of the transept fell in
isjv.n it, and a great storm laid the
tomb outside in ruins. For two years
it remained a mass of wreckage, but is
Aow restored, and a new effigy placed.
*&►
Walking in th© ltaln.
I wonder if many girls among my
readers have found out how delightful
Is a rainy day—when one knows how
to enjoy it? Protected by waterproof,
short skirt and cape and shoes, with a
soft felt hat, nnd no veil or umbrella—
for the rain in your face is the best
part of it—you can sally forth into a
new world and enjoy the fresh, newly
washed air to an extent you have
never imagined possible.
If the wind blows, all the better; you
can face it gloriously, or have it for an
ally at your back, or buffeting you side
wise, all to good advantage. You will
return from such a walk refreshed and
Invigorated beyond belief, carrying
new life with you into the house, to
those who are too timid to turn out
the storm nnd take its delightfully
itiagnetic baptism at first hand.—New
York News.
Fashion's Latitude.
The wide latitude in the fashions
gives woman an ample opportunity,
and she can select her own most be
coming style, whether it be the lnn
guorous robe of Porto Rico or the snug
one of Paris, the long gown of Havana
or the short beaded one of Hawaii.
A woman who brings home with her
from Europe every year a handsome
ornnment has this season a rather odd
bit which she picked up at an antique
Bale. It is supposed to have belonged
(to somebody at some far distant time.
And its material Is all gems and silver.
It is a great bird, a big silver eagle,
looking so much like an American
eagle. And It Is made with its wings
and breast studded with gems. This
I)j#-bird is nppllqued to the gown in
such a manner that he faces you with
breast all gleaming, and with wings as
brilliant as little diamonds and rubies
galore can mnlje them.
It is an odd fashion season that per
mits such a bird to be appliqued to the
waist of a handsome white liberty
gown, but tlie effect is charming.—
Brodklyn Eagle.
How to Slppp Comfortably.
M. A. Fnret, a French scientist, has
undertaken to teach us how to sleep.
He has experimented scientifically in
the art of sleeping comfortably.
As a result he advises the abolition
of tlie pillow nnd the bolster. Tlie only
natural position for one to assume
while sleeping is the horizontal. First
one must get used to sleeping without
n bolster. Tlie next step, he says, is to
remove the pillow, for not until then
wil} tlie circulation of the blood be as
tjj* as it should be.
ajn further explanation he says that
tlie pillow nnd the bolster keep the
head nnd neck at an abnormal angle,
nnd that consequently tlie sleeper's en
tire body remains during the nlglit in
mi uncomfortable position, and one
whicli Impedes tlie free course of the
blood through tlie vessels nnd organs.
Tlie only remedy, he maintains, is to
adopt a horizontal position, since by it
alone is absolute rest guaranteed, and
/this rest is due to the fact that in such
a position the ligaments of the neck
are not strained or distorted, the lungs
easily perform their proper work and
the heart beats regularly,
Tlie Care of liable*' Nail*.
The nail should never he clenned
with a steel or sharp instrument; use
the end of a smull wooden toothpick,
or, better still, a bit of pointed Ivory.
Dip either toothpick or ivory in warm
■water before cleaning the nails; do not
uji g in deeply so as to separate the skin
nora the nail, or the llesli will become
sore and harden under the edges of
the nail; the surface skin about the
base of the nail should be carefully
pushed back each day, a soft piece of
linen cloth or towel being used for this
purpose. Never cut the skin from the
base of tlie nail; this will harden and
loughen the skin, which will grow
ngain quickly, and will always give
trouble. Carefully rub it hack every
day, or, if it will not rub back easily,
push it back gently witli the ivory
stick. If tills care is persevered in the
skin will not adhere to the nails, but
will grow smoothly, and there will he
no ragged edges or hnng-nails; as the
child grows older tlie skin will remain
beautifully soft and smooth about the
Tails, and the nails themselves will
nfiso naturally become oval in form
and the finger tips tapering.—Harper's
Bazar.
The Duche**'* Coiffure.
Tlie coiffure which the Duchess of
Manchester wore at a theatre pnrty
given In honor of the christening of the
Manchester heir was the talk of Lon
don society. Attention was particular
ly centred upon the ornament which
she wore in her hair. This was a shim,
mering thing of green and pearls, em
eralds with a creamy background.
The whole was shaped in oval fash
ion and hung pendant from a chain,
right upon the forehe'nd of the Duch
ess. Her hair, which was dressed high,
was waved in front, and a generous
wave was pulled down in the middle.
Over this were slipped the chain of
gold and the ornament of emeralds.
A woman who is known for her
pretty morning toilets dressed her hair
quite uniquely the other day. She took
a strand of velvet and on the front of
It she set a big bow, while on the back
of It she placed a small bow. This she
laid around her head In such a manner
that the bows came in their proper
places, one in the front and one in the
back.
Great bands of embroidery, looking
very Oriental, are used to trim the
fronts of room dresses, and the great
beauty of these is that they can be
taken off and cleaned and placed upon
another dress some day. They can be
done upon satin and upon cloth, while
there is n sort of canvas cloth which
takes embroidery the best of all.
Of the ISOO registered guides In
Maine three are women.
Queen Wilhelmina of Holland has
one of the most artistic and valuable
crowns in the world.
A young Austrian woman, twenty
four years of age, has been appointed
station master in a village of Tyrol.
She has worked under the railway
manager and has mastered all the nec
essary routine.
Miss Amy E. Floyd, of the Univer
sity of Chicago, has just received a
money prize for devising the best "mu
sical cheer" for her university. Most
college cheers possess about every at
tribute except music.
Hundreds of trees have been planted
as the result of the effort of the In
dianapolis local council of women. The
object of the organization from the
first lias been municipal improvement,
especially along sanitary lines.
Queen Atnnlie of Portugal is cred
ited with being the most energetic
queen in Europe. She is devoted to tile
study of medicine, both practical and
theoretical, and has done much to Im
prove the Portuguese hospitals.
Woman is to have a chance in China
at last. Tlie Empress Dowager has an
nounced her intention of establishing
a girl's school In the palace at Pekln.
The students will be ten daughters of
princes. The immediate object of tills
move is to provide interpreters for the
Empress Dowager.
Mary Coggins, of California, is a suc
cessful women lumber dealer. She has
established a box factory, of which
one of her sons is general manager,
while she signs the checks, pays off
the employes and holds the purse
strings generally. Mrs. Coggins also
helps in the management of two saw
mills and many thousands of acres of
timber land.
Mrs. Lela Frazer recently left Mor
gantown, W. Va„ for Columbus, Ohio,
to visit some friends in the latter city.
She made the journey alone on horse
back in a week. When she reached
Columbus she sold the horse for a price
that covered the expenses of lier long
horseback ride and her railroad fare
home. Mrs. Frazer is, like her hus
band, a lawyer, and husband and wife
recently formed a partnership in law.
JggN^.Jj Wear
Many of the new rough zibelines ap
pear in bordered effects.
White cloth gowns, trimmed with
fur, are the sine qua non of smartness.
A leaf effect in two tones is a novelty
among the recently exhibited braid
trimmings.
Ulnck cloth appliques on satin make
an incongruous combination considered
very swagger.
Yellow medallions on white cloth
make a chic trimming scheme for a
dark blue gown.
Fancy French plaid silks are in equal
favor just now for silk blouses with
Scotch patterns.
The very popular gray squirrel is as
much used in the millinery world as it
is for coats, muffs or neck pieces.
Embroidered effects in connection
with lace are the feature of the latest
and most exclusive lingerie. Few edg
ings are used.
The Norfolk style has even invaded
the negligee world, and flannel dress
ing sacques of this shape are among
the latest offerings.
Machine embroidered wash shirt
waists, which one can hardly tell from
the hand embroidered kind, may now
be had in very heavy effects.
The shade of pink which is particu
larly conspicuous this season is known
as I.a France, although It is deeper In
hue than the rose after which it is
nnmed.
Borders, bands and many similar de
vices ornament the bottoms of the
fashionable skirts, but the greatly re
duced flare has eliminated the flounce
almost entirely.
Tulips have been effectively used as
designs for cuff buttons, sets of gold
background are utilized for red tulips,
and a bronze background in luster col
ors, for yellow tulips with red mark
ings.
A dream of daintiness is a pnir of
Empire corsets of imported batiste,
their design being an Empire scroll of
yellow silk forming the outline of the
pattern, with a delicate rosebud inside
the scroll.
L D
PERRENIAL SHORTCAKE.
A Sweet That May Be Had in Winter aa
Well as Summer.
Although the small fruits from
which the housekeeper usually makes
shortcakes are gone for this season,
says the New York Tribune, one
woman, whose family is hard to sat
isfy in the matter of deserts, has ori
ginated a plan by which she manages
to have fruit shortcakes all the year
round.
In the summer fresh fruits are used,
but for winter the preserved fruits are
found to be equally popular. The lat
ter are not the ordinary canned fruits,
jams or other mixtures, but the kinds
which by a careful process are pre
served whole, and bottled in rich
syrup. These may be obtained at any
first-class grocery store, and cost from
25 to 50 cents a bottle, depending on
the size and brand. Of the domestic
brands, a bottle costing 25 cents will
be sufficient to make a shortcake for
a family of five.
The majority of those who have tried
the biscuit crust for the cake part
prefer it to the regular layer cake so
much used. The winter fruit short
cake is made as follows:
Ingredients, three cups of self-raising
flour, one and a half cupfuls of milk,
one-third of a cupful of powdered
sugar, one-third of a teaspoonful of
salt, one heaping tablespoonful of
lard, one bottle of preserved fruit and
one pint of cream, sweetened and
flavored.
Sift the flour, add the salt, then rub
in the lard until it is thoroughly
blended with the flour and there are no
lumps. Add the sugar and milk, and
stir until it is thoroughly smooth.
Pour into a round jelly-cake tin, and
bake in a rather brisk oven for twenty
minutes. Immediately upon removing
the shortcake from the oven split it
straight across into two layers, and
butter each thoroughly, being careful
that the butter is not too salt. When
the butter lias been absorbed by the
shortcake, divide the contents of the
bottle of fruit into two parts. Spread
the fruit from one part over the lower
layers of cake, and pour the syrup
over it. Then place the top layer over
it, nnd proceed in the same manner.
Sweeten the cream to taste, and flavor
with vanilla, then whip until It is
-tiff enough to hold any shape in
vhich it is placed, nnd spread it over
lie top and sides of the shortcake,
"he cake should bo served within an
lour or so of making, and some pcr
-ions like It hot. The fruits best adapt
ed for tills purpose are strawberries,
raspberries nnd peaches. The whipped
cream Is not absolutely necessary, but
it adds to tlie appearance and flavor
of the dessert.
Brown Bread Sandwiches,
Brown bread sandwiches are no new
thing, but those which were construct
ed for a recent occasion by the original
hostess were a little different, and
made n palpable lilt. The bread was
cut extremely thin, of course; and it
was cut in odd and fanciful shapes
with cooky cutters. Some of the sand
wiches had Ncufcliatel cheese for the
"lining," some butter, others lettuce,
nnd in some were chopped olives.
Those which had a tliin layer of white
bread between the brown, and those
with brown bread between the white
layers, were a decided novelty.—Good
Housekeeping.
Cinnamon flavoring is recommended
for peach pie.
Soot may be removed from the chim
ney by burning a piece of zinc in the
stove.
Upon every kitchen floor should lie
an oilcloth. Nothing is more labor
saving.
A little salt dissolved in buttermilk
will quickly brighten copper after it
Is applied.
Nothing makes tins look as though
just from the tin shop with as little
effort as whiting does.
Old pots and pans can be well
cleaned by boiling a few ounces of
washing soda in them.
Washing tough meat in vinegar will
make it tender. The meat should be
thoroughly rinsed before being cooked.
The crust formation on the inside of
a tea kettle may bo prevented by put
ting in it a small, well-scrubbed oyster
shell.
Skimmed milk gives a new look to
old and faded oilcloth, and a bath of
this now and then is an excellent
thing.
For window draperies in a room in
which colonial furniture predominates
old-fashioned East Indian cottons,
which are to be had in soft dull color
ings, are particularly appropriate.
Turnips, boiled like beats, with their
Jackets on, are of better flavor and less
watery. A small bit of sugar added
wiiile the vegetable is boiling corrects
the bitterness often found in them.
Linen shades may be cleaned by
stretching them on a table and rub
bing them well with powdered bath
brick applied with a piece of flannel.
Shades will look almost new when
cleansed in this manner.
A piece of camphor is said to servo
admirably as a barometer. If, when
the camphor is exposed to the air,
the gum remains dry, tlie weather will
likewise be dry. On the other hand, if
the gum absorb moisture and appears
damp, it is an indication of rain.
Of Great Use <o Gardener**
The sterilization of the soil is of
great use to market gardeners. The
continuous use of the soil seems to All
it with matter not good for plants, hut
sterilizing it kills the germs. I can
now grow far better crops under glass
than out of doors.—W. W. Itawson, of
Massachusetts.
Planting For Autumn Color Effects*
Besides the trees so familiar to all,
such as oaks, maples, sumac, etc.,
might be mentioned a few others
which, though less common, are none
the less deserving. The tupelo (Nyssa
multiflora) a comparative rare native
species, takes on a deep crimson early
in the autumn, and while the foliage
adheres It is one of the best. The sas
safras (Sassafras officinale), seldom
seen except in its native haunts, is
well worthy of being more generally
planted for its brilliant coloring.
The hardy shrubs present some very
fine and well marked effects. Vlbur
mun tomentosum, often incorrectly
called pllcatum, may well be cited as
an example. In the spring Its pure
white flowers borne in graceful pani
cles, make it one of the best. The
fruit, at lirst red, but later changing
to a blackish color, renders the effect
quite striking; while as autumn ap
proaches and the fruit falls, the fol
iage takes 011 a purplish tinge and ad
heres tenaciously. It is valuable both
for single specimens and for grouping.
—G. A. Drew, in American Agricultur
ist.
Direction* For Spraying Orchards.
As a result of much experimentation
In Maryland orchards Professor A. L.
Quaintance, State entomologist, in
forms us that the lime, sulphur and
salt mixture referred to as the Califor
nia wash, has been very successfully
used during the past year. Through
the efforts of American Agriculturist
many leading fruit growers in various
parts of the country used this wash
early last spring, and the results have
been very satisfactory In all cases.
In some places it has been shown that
the final value of this wash is not ap
parent early in the spring, but shows
Itself later in the summer. In addi
tion to its effect on the scale the ma
terial remains on the trees In sufficient
strength to cause death to a very largo
percentage of the young insects devel
oping from individuals which were
not destroyed by the treatment. Th*
most effective time for applying the
material Is in spring, Just before the
buds begin to swell. In some large
orchards where the work cannot be
conveniently crowded into a few days
some spraying can be done this fall
and winter. While it is not always de
sirable to do the work in winter, there
Is no reason why it cannot be done to
advantage at any time nfter the trees
are dormant and the weather favor
*ble for its application.
Training Cucumber* in Greenhouse*.
A novel way of training cucumbers
Is being adopted by a well-known fruit
company of Eastern Massachusetts.
Instead of setting up V-shaped frames
to run lengthwise of the house be
tween each two rows of vines, the lat
ter are planted in rows ten to twelve
feet apart, running crosswise of the
house. Light wire netting of six by
eight inch mesh is set lip horizontally
over each row, and at a height of from
three to live feet, depending 011 the
height of the house and bed, are run
wires six inches apart lengthwise of
tlie house. Vines are trained up the
wire netting, and then ail one way on
liese' horizontal wires.
This method allows of a better circu
lation of air through the house, and
of greater ease and facility in water
ing as well as in picking the "cukes."
In the long houses now in Use it is a
considerable item to carry the cucum
bers out from the ends. By this sys
tem as soon as a basket is filled it can
be passed out of a side window and
picked up with 11 wagon. Not as many
vines can bo set in a house where this
method is pursued, but the indications
are that they will be more fruitful,
will produce a larger percentage of
first quality of "cukes," and that the
average yield per house will be full as
great, if not greater, than by the old
plan of training.
A llotmilcal Discovery.
Tlie list of oaks of New Jersey is to
be added to. The discovery of several
irees of Inercus Michauxil near
Moorestown is reported to the Phila
delphia Botanical Club by Edward
Harris. The common name of tlie va
riety is basket oak, cow oak, and as a
t
"LEAF OF THE BASKET OAK.
■variety is midway between tlie swamp
white oak and the chestnut oak. Tlie
leaves are about live inches long and
nearly ovate, rather rigid and liairy
beneath. The acorn is long, sweet
and edible; the cup shallow and rough
ish. The tree is large, tlie bark gray
and flaky. The northern limit of this
tree hitherto has been Delaware.—
Philadelphia Record.
PteJ
"TfrRK. FASHIONS
New York City.—Box-pleated waists
made with shaped yokes are exceed
ingly fashionable and have the added
merit of being generally becoming.
BOX TLEATED WAIST.
This stylish May Manton model is of
reseda peau de cygue, with yoke of
tucked cream inoussellne and shaped
bands of reseda broadcloth stitched
with corticelli silk, and is worn with
a skirt of cloth matching the bands;
but the design suits both odd waists
and entire gowns and all the season's
fabrics.
Th e foundation lining tits snugly
and Is closed at the centre front. On to
it is faced the back portion of the yoke
and over it are arranged the box
pleated back, fronts of the waist
proper and the front portion of the
THEATRE COAT.
yoke, the closing of tlie waist being
effected invisibly beneath the central
box pleat and the corresponding tuck
iu the yoke. The back is smooth and
without fulness, but the fronts blouse
slightly and stylishly over the belt.
The sleeves are box-pleated at their
upper portions, l'orui full, soft puffs
below the elbows and are gathered
into pointed cuffs at the wrists. At
the neck is a novel stock iu the fash
ionable clerical cut. The belt is pointed
at the front, and is finished with postil
lion talis at tlie back.
The quantity of material required
for the medium size is live yards twen
ty-one inches wire, four and one-lialf
yards twenty-seven inches wide, or
two and three-eighth yards forty-four
Inches wide, with one-half yard of
tucking or lace eighteen inches wide
for yoke.
Woman'* Theatre Coat.
Loose filling wraps for theatre, even
ing and reception wear are among the
-mart features of Hie season and be
come necessities when the fashionable
waists, with their big sleeves and
filmy materials, are worn. The very
satisfactory model shown iu tlie large
drawing is adapted to all tlie uses
uamed and can lie made elaborate
or simple as the material chosen be
comes one or tlie other. The original
Is of white broadcloth, with revers and
bands of heavy linen lace over white
silk and is stitched with corticelli silk,
but all :-loths, /.choline, cashmere, penii
de soie and the many cloaking mate
rials of the season are appropriate with
lace, embroidery, fur or plain silk for
revers.
Tlie coat is in Russian style and is
out with a loose filling hack and loose
fronts that eloso in double-breasted
style or turn back to form tlie revers.
Tlie sleeves are circular in shape and
fall in graceful folds at the lower
edges. The neck can lie finished plain
or with tlie strap collar, as shown iu
tlie small sketch, and the coat can lie
worn open or closed and held by but
tons and loops.
Tlie quantity of material required
for the medium size is eight yards
twenty-one inches wide, four and three
fourth yards forty-four iuehes wide or
three and three-fourth yards fifty-two
inches wide, with two and one-fourth'
yards of alt-over lace to trim as illus
trated.
New Lattice Work.
Bather more novel than the usual
basket interlacing of broadcloth bands
or strips of velvet ribbon is a combina
tion of the two. A cranberry crimson
zibeline dress has a blouse with a
simulated bolero on the shoulders and
breast entirely composed of this new
lnttice work. The velvet ribbon is
black, and the strapping Is of crim
son zibeline cut in bias folds and cov
ered with machine stitching. Bands
are usually more successful when cut
of firm broadcloth than of zibeline,
which has to bo either lined or triple
folded to hold it Arm. The vertical
lines of the lattice come out well In
black velvet. There are two or three
variations of the basket weaving in
these velvet and woolen lattices.
Short Walking Skirts.
There is no doubt that on all practi
cal frocks the skirts will be much
shorter, but the really short skirt to
show the ankles should be kept exclu
sively for country wear. Town frocks
are now cut without a train, but touch
ing the ground all around.
Cameo Portraiture.
The revival of the cameo has brought
to life cameo portraiture, which pro
vides pleasure to those who delight in
the unique and rare.
A Quaint Brooch.
Quaint and fetching is a brooch in the
form of a ruby-eyed gold fish that
holds a perfect little pearl in its mouth.
Woman's lllouae or Sliirt. iValfil.
[ Pointed straps as trimming arc no
ticeable features of tlie latest gowns
[ and waists. This very smart May
i Man ton blouse shows them to advan
. tagc and includes, as well, the fashion
■ able princess closing tucks at the slioul
i ders, that give soft folds over the bust,
I and n model stock collar. As Illus
trated it is of pale blue peau de cygue,
the straps piped with black panne,
and slltehed with black eorticell! silk,
but all waistiug materials in silk and
wool are appropriate.
Tile waist Is made over a fitted lining
that closes at the centre front and
serves as a foundation for the outside.
The blouse consists of a plain back and
of fronts that are tucked at their edges
and again at the shoulders, where they
are so laid as to give the effect of a
broad box pleat. Between these tucks,
at the centre, and over the shoulder
seams are applied the pointed straps
that are held by small black buttons.
The sleeves are moderately full and
are finished with oddly shaped cuffs
that match the trimming straps. The
stock is in regulation style, with the
addition of curved straps cut to give
the clerical suggestion.
The quantity of material required
for tlie medium size is four and five-
Bf.OUSB SKIRT WAIST.
5 eighth yards twenty-one inches wide,
- three and seven-eighth yards tweuty
r seven inches wide or two and one
> fourth yard ferty-four inches wide.