(SXTalks: A bout
yuooii Alexandra Likes Animals.
Tlie Queen is a devoted lover of ani
mals and never loses an opportunity
■of putting down cruelty and securing
consideration for them. It is owing to
Her Majesty's suggestion that notices
y were posted in so many omnibuses,
asking passengers not to demand the
complete stoppage of the vehicle more
■often than was necessary, says Home
Notes. Next the Queen turned her at
tention to tlie needs of London cab
horses, and she has sent to her native
land foi specimens of a light stand
for supporting the horse's nosebag, so
that it may be able to take its food
with greater comfort than is possible
from a bag strapped to the head.
nustlma Taffeta.
While some women complain that
taffeta both catches and holds the dust,
tt is yet a fact that for strappings es
pecially and stitched empleeeiuents of
/ whatever form, nothing touches this
most popular of silks. Even on outing
rigs it figures to a great extent, and no
X sensible person can deny that for dust
less qualities it doesn't beat braid.
Even a plain braid Is loosely woven by
comparison, and holds a lot of dust,
while those that indulge in the average
number of curves, twists and qulrl
ccues generally are veritable dust
traps. With most of the light weight
wools it's the same way, the dust sim
ply sinks in. This is not the case with
taffeta, for though it shows dust on the
surface one has the satisfaction of
knowing that 'tis all on the outsldo.
Weßrlnp of Combs.
Combs are still as important as ever
In arranging the coiffnro; in fact, it
may be said that tortoise shell combs,
both side and back, have come to stay.
Women of all stations wear them,
though they differ In quality and orna
mentation, and one would as soon
j think of attempting to do up one's hair
without hairpins as without these con
venient combs.
The two side pieces are rather long
and curved, while the one which is in
tended to hold up "scolding" locks is
shorter, but lias largo teeth. Whether
Iho coiffure is high or low, a sot of
1 hree is used, the only difference being
that in the former case the back comb
is thrust in rather low across the head,
while with the latter style tlds comb
is placed at the crown of the head, and
is used to hold tlie pompadour roll in
place.—Philadelphia Press.
To Keep n flood Figure,
Women who wish to preserve the
slimness and contour of their figures
must begin by learning to stand well.
That is explained to mean the throw
ing forward and upward of the chest,
tlie flattening of the back and shoulder
y blades held in their proper places, and
the definite curving of the small of the
back, thus throwing the whole weight
of the body on the hips, says the Chi
cago Inter-Ocean. ,
This, in a great measure, preserves
the figure, because it keeps the muscles
firm and well strung and prevents the'
sinking down of the flesh around the
waist, so common in women over thir
ty, which is perfectly easy to escape.
Another tiling to avoid is the bad habit
of going upstairs, as most women do,
bent forward, with tlie chest contract
ed, which, as well as being an indolent,
slouching manner of walking, is in
jurious to the heart and lungs.
Ilor Variety of Moods.
One of tlie greatest charms of the
attractive modern woman, gays a
French author, lies in her great variety
•of moods. She presents a different
/ type half a dozen times a day, so that
one is never bored in her company,
> while the interest is constantly sus
tained by wondering what phase will
be presented next. Certainly the girl
of the new century answers to this
description, for she has almost as many
sides as there ore facets to a diamond.
She is charmingly girlish in her simple
white frock in the morning, arranging
the flowers or performing some other
pretty domestic service. She is delir
iously feminine gowned in berufiled
muslin driving nbout in her low basket
wagon, like a Leach girly girl of long
ago. She is deliciously masculine in
her riding togs, with all the courage
nnd dash of an adventuresome youth
in her pursuit of sport by land and
water. Afterward, strangest of all the
transformations, looking like a gnome
Take Care of Your Kyeg.
An authority on the care of the eyes
9l •emphasizes the fact that in this day
of reckless misuse of the eyesight the
i rules laid down must consist of warn
ings regarding things to be avoided.
Here are some of the main rules for the
care of tlie eyes which should be of
Interest to everybody:
First: Do not use the eyes in poor
tight, or too far from a good light.
Second: Do not have the body in the
way of the light, nor the light directly
In front. One is almost as bad as the
other. The light should fall without
Interruption from one side. Third: Do
not use the eyes much when recovering
from illness or when very tired.
Fourth: Do not use the eyes when
they become watery, or show signs of
Indistinctness of.vision. Fifth: Do
not work with head bent over. This
_ tends to gorge the vessels of the eyes
v with blood, and to produce congestion.
Sixth: Do not read lying flat on the
back or reclining, unless the book is
supported in the same relative angle
and position as when erect. This is
leo difficult to do that It is better not to
attempt it. Seventh: Do not go a
jingle day without glasses after you
Should put them on.
from elfland. she appears In gogles,
visor and coat, while taking out her
French racing "bubble" for a spin.
Later, returning, dusty and grimy,
like a butterfly emerging from a chrys
alis, she Anally reapupears, in a be
witching French confection, with long
silken train, ready for conquest in the
evening.—New York Tribune.
Xovelty In Kmbroldery.
Is It posible that French knots are to
be displaced by enother little embroid
ery novelty? Almost every gown one
sees now displays some arrangement
of these curious little knots, while fash
ion magazines and papers continually
refer to the modish style of trimming
Yet only the other day appeared a
Paris model which, notwithstanding
the embroidery, hadn't a single knot ol
this particular variety. Instead, there
was a pretty arrangement of tiny
crosses worked after the manner of
knots, but with very decided points.
The embroidery presented an effect of
cross stitch work, yet each small figure
was entirely separate from the others.
On bands and straps, rows of tlicsa
little crosses worked in a contrasting!
shade of silk are very effective, and
when irregular masses are desired they
will lie found to till in quite as nicely as
the much used knot.
While usually a trifle larger than
French knots, the size, of course, de?
pends upon the kind of silk used foi
tile embroidery. If you want youi
linen frock trimmed in a new way
have it ornamented with bands tipor
which are worked tiny crosses in dulj
blue, red or green, and the yoke effect
as well as the lower part of the sleeve
puff or the deep cuff, may be solidly
embroidered after this novel
New York Ilerald.
A woman operates one of the most
successful stock ranches in Arizona,
eleven miles from Prescott.
Mrs. John Golden, of Jeffersonville,
Ind., the first woman to be given a
pilot's license on tho Ohio and Missis
sippi ltivers, started on her tirat trip
recently from Louisville.
Jane B. Shcrzer, an American girl, a
native of Franklin, Ohio, has received
tho degree of doctor of philosophy at
tho Berlin University. She received
the degree of A. B. from the Univer
sity of Michigan in 1893. Previous to
that time she taught school at Oxford,
Ohio, and Jackson, 111.
Suzanne llenning, an American girl,
fourteen years of age, who lias been
staying at St. Moritz, Switzerland, lias
succeeded in climbing the mountains
direct into Italy. She ascended the
Diavollezza, crossed tho I'ers glacier
and descended Morteratsch glacier.
She was accompanied by a maid and
guides.
A trade for women which seems pe
culiar to Paris is that of the "dinner
taster." Just before the dinner hour
the lady drives round from house to
house of her patrons, enters each kitch
en and tastes each dish which is to be
served. Sho suggasts Improvements
and describes new .methods of prepar
ing food.
In the Empire District, in Cedar
Creek County, Col., are suid to be two
good paying mines owned by women.
One of them belongs to two Boston
stenographers, who went to Colorado
on ii vacation tour, bought a prospect,
began to work it themselves, nnd even
tually developed it into one of tlie best
producers of low grade ore in the dis
trict.
Lady Henry Somerset, who has re
cently completed her fifty-Hrst year,
has been, since 1890, President of tlie
British Women's Temperance Associa
tion, which Is now the largest associa
tion of Its kind in England. In 1892
she was President of the World's Wom
en's Christian Temperance Union, and
in 1898 held sway over half a million
women as President of the Interna
tional Association.
—7 7iine~
flg W aar
Exquisite house gowns are made of
flowered liberty satins.
The brims of the latest models In
toques turn up straight all around.
Velvet strappings are to be used on
some of the less severe tailor costumes.
Mlroir velvet is taking the place of
panne, both in dark and delicate tints.
For voile and similar materials entre
deux of coarse net is used with artistio
effect
Buttons of all kinds are used as gar
niture, particularly tiny gilt or silver
buttons.
White soutache jraid blended with
black makes an effective trimming foi
fall costumes.
Tassels continue in favor, and may
he of gold, passementerie or the mate
rial of the gown.
Green wreaths as well as flower cir
clets have been favorite hair decora
tions this season.
For dressy wear smooth clqth will
be a leader this fall, as it has been foi
several seasons past.
Cabochons and huge balls, preferably
of jet, nave superseded the familial
buckle as millinery ornaments.
The blue and green combinations con
are charming, noticeably those of the
light tortoise shell inlaid with gold.
The blue and green combination, con
spicuous during the summer, are in
evidence for the fall, particularly in
plaid effects.
AFFAIRS
Ten loe Cream.
Tea Ice cream has not tlie popularity
(hat its delicate flavor warrants. Make
two cupfuls of strong tea, and season
It with two tablespoonfuls of sugar.
Lot it cool. Then add it to two pints of
boiled custnrd that lias been flavored
with vanilla. The addition of a quar
ter of a cupful of rich cream will im
prove It, but it is not necessary. Freeze
the same as other creams.
Ginger Cookies.
Tlie following rule makes a delicious
soft ginger cake or cookie; Cream a
cup of butter or half a cup of butter
aud half a cup of lard. When thor
oughly creamed add a cup of sugar,
gradually beating it in. Add two cups
of good Porto Rico molasses. In a
cup of hot water dissolve a level table
spoonful of baking soda. Add to this
the otliey ingredients. Measure out
five cups of flour, sift thoroughly and
add, beating well. Roll out thtu and
bake in a hot oven.
Kgg Surprise*.
We had the oddest dish Imaginable
served to us at a girl's luncheon the
other day. It was boiled eggs served
in quaint china egg cups. As we had
gotten down to coffee and bonbons
when the eggs made their appearance,
they created quite a sensation. The
first thought was of tees In a novel
form; but Inspection showed that the
shells were of the bona fide barnyard
variety. However, tlie shell when
broken with our spoons revealed tissue
paper Instead of albumen. The paper
In every case inclosed a delightful little
silver souvenir of the occasion. On
pulling out our treasures, we found
that the eggs were hollow shells. The
gifts had been inserted through a large
opening hidden by the egg cup.—Mary
Dawson, in Good Housekeeping.
Sweet I'ieklea of Red Peppers.
The sweet plekle was no doubt of
East Indian origin—an English Imita
tion of the East Indian chutney. Intro
duced with curry and other East In
dian dishes toward the end of the
eighteenth century. The novelty of
adding cayenne nnd cocoanut aud such
ingredients was never adopted by the
English housewife, though it was a
part of tlie genuine East Indian chut
ney. Not until a century inter did An
glo-Suxou housewives attempt to make
genuine chutneys, with tlieir curious
compound of acids, sweets, cayenne
and spices of all sorts.
A new plekle introduced this season
is made of red peppers. Soak the
pickles in boiling water for about twen
ty minutes and then put them iu a
cold brine to soak over night and to
draw out the crude juices of the veg
etable. Finally cut them into thin
Slices and make Into a sweet pickle pre
cisely as peaches, pears nnd other
fruits are pickled. This is just the
relish necessury with a dish of roasted
meat.—New York Tribune.
J 15
Kerosene oil will clean blackened
silver almost instantly.
Put salt on the clinkers in your stovo
or range while they are hot, after rak
ing down the fire, and it will remove
them.
If an ecru tinge be desired in lace,
place powdered saffron in water ami
allow the lace to lie on it, increasing
the strength until the desired tint is
obtained.
The ordinary, every day omelet will
put on a new air if, as soon as it is
"set," it is cut into quarters and each
piece is rolled separately before being
removed from the pan.
When flavoring Ims been forgotten
In a pudding or cake the fault may
be remedied by rubbiug the desired ex
tract over tlie outside of the cake us
soon as it is taken from the oven.
To clean gilt frames sponge them
with spirits of wine or oil of turpen
tine, only wetting the sponge sufficient
ly to take off dirt and fly marks. Do
not wipe the frames, but let them dry
in the air.
Mildew may be removed from white
lawn by spreading with u paste of soft
soap and powdered chalk and putting
In the sun, or even by soaking iu but
termilk and then sunning. As soon as
the spots fade out rinse through several
waters and dry.
To remove grease from cloth clothes
use alcohol and salt. Dissolve ono
tablespoouful of salt in four of alcohol.
Apply wlion needed with a piece of
clean flannel or sponge. Keep this
mixture tightly corked and do not use
It near a fire or light, for It is very in
flammable.
Always strain the juice from par
boiled oysters before adding it to tlie
soup. In parboiling the albumen coag
ulates and forms the fine black flakes
that often are found floating in oyster
soup. They do not in any way spoil
the flavor, but the sight of them Is not
appetizing.
Steaming is the best process for
cleaning veils. Wind the veil care
fully, with even edges around a piece
of broom handle, lay across a boiler
or saucepan of water and steam for
about three-quarters of an hour. Leave
on the broom handle until dry. and ail
the dirt and dust will be gone, giving
it a new stiffness.
RUSSIAN COURT COSTUME.
Antique Drens Which Contains Three
l v onnds of Metal.
According to the New York Post a
complete Russian court costume of the
sixteenth century lias been recently
Imported by the proprietor of an East
Side Russian bazaar, who claims that
It is the only article of the kind for sale
in town. The cloth of which the dress
is heavy with silt and silver threads,
and is embroidered over in the riches!
and brightest colors. There are said to
be between two and three pounds ol
metals in the dress. Although so mag'
nltieent on the outside, the lining is ol
old-fashioned calico, of n quality which
would be sold to-day for a few cents a
yard, and the stiffening is a sort ol
brown pasteboard. A eurious featuri
of tlie costume is its head-dress, a sorl
of pointed cap, around the edges of
which is a wide band of lacework,
made from tiny heads of mother-of
pearl, accurately strung. The dealer
who has the gown says that he bought
it from a museum employe at St. Pet
ersburg, and that the dress Itself had
been on public exhibition there. Real
izing the unusual opportunity for get
ting hold of such a rarity, he dl(l not
stop to inquire how it got from the mu
seum shelves to the attendant's hands.
A water-pitcher of copper, coated
over with lead and elaborately en
graved, is another curiosity received in
one of the Russian shops. The pitcher
Is about 150 years old, and was made
by the Gruslans, a mountain tribe, who
were first subdued by Alexander 11,
Not having silver, they covered their
finer copper vessels with lead, which
was bright aiul stiver-like when new,
but whieb quickly lost its lustre. Very
little of this ware is now to be had
anywhere.
WISE WORDS.
He Is rich who owns nothing.—ltalian
proverb.
A fine cage won't feed the bird.—
French proverb.
I mnst work the works of Him that
sent me, while it is day; the night Com
eth, when no man can work.—St. John.
The sins by which God's Spirit is
ordinarily grieved are the sins of small
things—laxities In keeping the temper,
slight neglects of duty, sharpness of
dealing.—Horace Bushnell.
True literature Is the voice of the soul
calling from the windows of the house
of clay in response to those things in
life that touch the nature of the soul
that speaks.—The Spectator.
The working world understands that
the only man who really knows things
is the man who can do things; that no
man is really skilled and wise whose
whole knowledge has been got out of
books.—Portland Oregonian.
The labor of the baking was the hard
est part of the sacrifice of her hospi
tality. To many it is easy to give what
they have, but the offering of weariness
and pain is never easy. They are, in
deed, a true salt to salt sacrifices
wlthak—George Macdonald.
Opportunity goes, but inspiration
comes. Time goes, but eternity comes.
The human goes, the divine comes.
Tlie world passes away, and the fash
lon of it; but heaven comes—the heaven
of a better faith, loftier hope, more
generous love, making all things new
and fair.—James Freeman Clarke.
The great books of the imagination
are written in invisible ink—that is,
they are understood only by experi
ence. You must be able to hold their
pages before the lire of life ere their
full significance appears to you. It
follows that one reading of a great
book cannot suffice.—British Weekly.
A New Traveling Crane.
A traveling cantilever crane will be
used for erecting the battleship Con
necticut, to be built at the New York
Navy Yard, says the Engineering
News. It will consist of a double truss
girder 211 feet 2>/j inches long over all,
with trolley track of 20 feet gauge
The trolley travel will he 198 feet, or
99 feet to each side of tlie centre. Tlie
crane girder will travel on a track of
20 feet gauge supported on a steel
trestle about 02 feet high and 513 feet
long over all. The trolley will thus
have a clear working space of SO feet
wide and 513 feet long on each side
ol' the trestle structure. The rise of the
hook is 81 feet 7 inches. The capacity
of the crane is 30,000 pounds at 00
feet at each side of the centre, and 15,-
000 pounds at 09 feet either side of the
centre. The power will be sufficient to
give a hoisting speed of 125 feet per
minute for a load of 30,000 pounds, or
350 feet or 700 feet respectively for
loads of 10,000 or 1000 pounds. The
trolley travel will be 400 to 800 feet per
minute, and the bridge travel 400 to
700 feet according to the load.
Tlm London Sewer Hunter.
The Condon sewer hunter before
commencing operations provides him
self with a bullseye lantern, a canvas
apron and a pole some seven or eight
feet in length, having an iron attach
mont at one end somewhat in the
shape of a hoe. For greater conve
nience the lantern is invariably fixed
to the right shoulder so that when
walking the light is thrown ahead,
and when stooping its rays shine di
rectly to their feet. Thu.i accoutred
they walk slowly along through the
mud, feeling with their naked feet for
anything unusual, at the same time
raking the accumulation from the
walls and picking from the crevices
any article they see. Nothing is ai<
lowed to escape them, no matter what
Its value, provided it is not valueless.
Old iron, pieces of rope, bones, current
coin of the realm ami articles of plate
and Jewelry—all is good fish which
comes to the hunter's net.—Chambers'
Journal.
New York City. Rough-finished
cloths are used for promenade cos
tumes this season, and are very appro
priate for cold weather. A smart black
LADIES' BTIIKKT SUIT.
and gray homespun is shown here de
veloped in strictly tailor-made style.
The blouse is shaped with shoulder
and nnderarm seams only. The back
Is plain and the garment Binoothly
adjusted under the arms.
Two backward turning pleats on the
shoulders are stitched down a short
distance, providing becoming fulness
over the bust that forms a blouse at
the waist. The jacket is completed
with a narrow velvet licit that fastens
with a cut steel buckle.
The fronts close iu donble-brensted
style, with two rows of steel buttons
that are tlie only trimming used on the
suit. The neck is finished at the col
lar line with machine stitching and the
collar is omitted.
The sleeve is shaped with an inside
seam, has slight fulness on the shoul
ders and is gathered at the wrist. The
sleeve is arranged on a wristluiml, with
tlie gathers at the back, where it
droops stylishly.
The skirt is made with ten evenly
proportioned gores fitted smoothly
around the waist. It closes invisibly
at tlie centre hack seam iu habit effect.
A narrow tuck is stitched at each
side of the gores and flatly pressed,
producing what is called the "slot"
seam.
To make tlie Eton in tlio medium
size will require one and one-half yards
of forty-four-ineh material.
To make the skirt In the medium
size will require five and one-half yards
of forty-four-inch material.
A Smart Costume.
Very light shades of gray, tan and
green are to be worn this fall, with
velvet trimmings to give them a heavy
apppearance. A smart costume is
shown iu the large drawing, developed
In Eau de Nil wool canvas, having
white lace and dark green velvet for
trimming.
The waist is made over a glove-fitted
featherboned lining that closes in the
centre front. The back is plain across
the shoulders aud drawn down close
to the belt, where the fulness is ar
ranged in tiny pleats.
The plastron and full vest are perma
nently attached to the right lining
front and close invisibly on the left.
A baud of lace is applied at the top of
the vest to cover tlie joining.
A tiny rover and shoulder trimming
of velvet finish the edges of tlie front
above the vest, the latter extending
over tlie shoulder to the back. A trans
parent lace collar completes the neck,
and is edged top and bottom with vel
vet ribbon.
The sleeves are shaped with the regu
lation inside seams, aud also have
seams on the top. They tit the upper
arm closely. Material added at each
side of the top seam Is gntliered and
fastened at the elbow, falling in a loose
puff to the wrist, where it is finished
with a velvet hand. Ribbon covers
the seam from shoulder to elbow.
The skirt is made with five well-pro
portioned gores, narrow front, aud
sides with wide hacks, fitted smoothly
around the waist aud hips without
darts. The fulness in the centre back
is arranged in an underlying pleat at
; each side of the closing. These pleats
are flatly pressed and present a per
fectly plain appearance.
The skirt is sheath fitting from waist
to knee. ' The flounces are narrow in
front and graduate in depth toward
the back. They are of circular shap
ing and flare stylishly at the lower
edge, where the hems are finished with
machine stitching.
To make the skirt in the medium size
will require seven yards of forty-four
ineb material.
Incoming to Youthful Wearers.
Effective combinations of black and
white are seen in children's garments
as well as those intended for grown
folks this season, and it must be ad
mitted that they are very becoming to
youthful wearers.
The coat shown here Is made of
white satin-faced cloth with black satin
trimmings. The front shield is braided
in black ribbons. It is narrow at the
neck, broadens considerably toward
(lie lower edge and is completed with a
black collar, both closing at the centre
back.
The coat Is shaped with shoulder and
underarm seams, tits well on the shoul
ders and flares in box efi'oct at the
lower edge, falling in soft graceful
folds. Triple shoulder capes of black
satin are edged with hands of white.
They give a becoming breadth to the
figure.
The ooat is fastened invisibly from
tlie neck to the point of the capes. Be
low that the closing is made with black
satin buttons and buttonholes worked
in the edges of the fronts.
The sleeves are regulation coat
sleeves, shaped with upper and under
portions. They have slight fulness on
tlie shoulders and are iluishod with
flaring cuffs ol' satiu.
To make the coat for a child of two
COAT FOB A CHILD.
years will require three yards of twen
ty-two-inch material, with oue yard of
velvet trimming.