I THE,
JAIR
A Button Fad.
Buttons are to bo used in every Kind
of way, and a good set of buttons Is
n fair investment on any woman's
dress money. Take the new paste em
erald buttons, and select a button
which is set in silver with emeralds
and rhlnestonos. Choose a small size
and let there bo buttons enough to
get the double-breasted effect upon a
cloth dress. For this six buttons will
Ibe needed, and three are placed high
at each side of the bodice. These same
buttons can later be used upon a fur
Eton, straight down the front, and
next spring they can grace the hack
of a postilion belt.
Hr Picture Hat.
I never think that English women
A:iy enough attentlou to the side and
back views of tlieir heads and bats.
Very often you can look charming
full face when the side view leaves
much to be desired. As a rule, it Is
disastrous for an English woman to
lengthen her face or to take away
shade from her eyes. The tiny toque
perched on the top of tht> head lias
gone out of fashion, and mercifully
so, for this was a very trying mode.
When French women wear a neat hat
or toque they Invariable shade their
eyes with It.—Madame.
What In Being Worn.
A grant deal of gray is worn, but
tliiefly in very pale tints, and that sil
very shade with a pinkish tone is quite
the most popular of all. Bright eolor-
Jngs are not much worn, and no doubt
Jtlio continued wearing of black and
•;vhite for so long a period has induced
a distaste for vivid colors. All the
blues, heliotropes and pinks are soft
and delicate, nud the misty pastel tones
arc much affected.
Black laee is a good deal worn, even
on light colored gowns, and the tucked
taffeta costume worn by tile smart ma
tron is milch inserted and adorned Willi
black laee set a jour and worn over a
White or heliotrope slip.
No More Heavy Skirts.
The outing skirts—all walking skirts,
In fact—are, as a rule, being made up
uplined. Tlie circular skirt has disap
peared, and on such costumes tlie
flounee is used. The gored skirt with
flare below tlie knees and heavy stitch
ing or strapping is popular, but the
pleated skirt is the new model, and is
making heroic efforts to dominate the
ffhl. It appears in side or kilt pleats
ud In the very broad shallow box
pleats stitched flatly two-thirds of the
skirt length and then left to flare.
Tailors, having found great difficulty 111
shaping and titling these pleated skirts
smoothly over the hips, are now com
promising in a large percentage of
cases aud avoiding thickness by using
a closely fitted plain hip yoke, to which
the pleated skirt is attached with ex
cellent effect.
(Jn.cn. mill Fn.liloni.
Queens, of course, need not trouble
themselves about the latest mandate of
fashion, as whatever royalty wears is
the fashion; but few smart English-
Women would care to copy the Em
press of Germany in the matter of
dress. Her royal highness pays much
regard to what will stand wear and
itear, and lias a comfortable indiffer
/twia to loveilyess. The Empress of
Vliussia is perhaps the most splendidly
\drcssed woman in Europe; her furs
alone are said to he worth a fabulous
sum of money. Our own Queen Is
somewhat severe in her style of dress,
but what she wears entirely suits her
and always looks pretty. Queen Amelle
of Portugal posseses a distinct genius
for dressing prettily, aud can make the
ugliest costume look charming by a
few touches.—London Tatlcr.
For Steeple.. Women.
The woman who cannot sleep is nl
ways a nervous subject. She should
religiously take enough physical exer
cise eaeli day to induce healthful fa
tigue. She should eat simple, easily
digested food, avoiding tea and coffee
later than her breakfast hour. Many
women declare that ten and coffee
have no effect upon their nerves. 1
know they are mistaken. Tea and
) coffee are excellent excitants and euc-
I■' lies of sleep. The insomnia victim
' may be lulled to rest by a gentle,mas
sage—the hypnotic stroke will often
act as a magical sleep inducer. Some
times a rub with hair friction gloves
will induce sleep. A tepid batli taken
just before retiring lias a sedative ef
fect. But a hot bath is stimulating,
and should not be taken at night by
nervous subjects.—New York Times.
Fruck. For School.
Becoming, serviceable school frocks
may be made from plaids which are
more popular than ever. Stylish little
dresses can be made from the silk over
plaids which have the appearance of a
narrow satin l-ibhou crossed on a
plain cashmere background.
The clothes in plaid patterns are
> smarter than ever. Thoy range from
the very small broken checks to 011 c
Inch plaids, aud 011 up to plaids that
are very large.
There is a variety of color combina
tions in these, blue aud green, brown
and green, and red aud green, 011 a
black ground, all being good style. The
blue and green combinations ar* much
■ought after.
•The serges with cloth finish, in pin 1(1
patterns, offer still other possibilities
for school frocks. They come in many
color combinations.—New York Jour
nal.
Nervous Worn nil Who Travel*.
There is a rather amusing paper on
"Women On a Journey" in the Lady's
Magazine. The writer affirms that any
one more incapable than the nervous
woman who travels is not to be found,
and proceeds to describe the conduct of
such a one wlio lately journeyed from
T.ondon to Edinburgh:
"She was in a flurry of excitement at
King's Cross, and ran hurriedly be
tween the van where her goods was
being piled in and the carriage in
which she had deposited her rugs and
dressing bag. Whilst looking after the
one she was racked wilk the idea
that someone was disturbing the other,
and tlie scurry back to the carriage,
as every new arrival entered, in dire
fear that her seat would be appropri
ated, was quite pitiful. When, at last,
we started, she discovered that her
seat was facing the engine, and we all
moved to accommodate her with an
other seat. In this she found a draught,
and later an otfici.il was fetched to
remove her belongings to another car
riage."
And so on. Not perhaps very wide
of the mark, but the number o" such
women must, after all, be comparative*
ly few.
g
The English census returns show that
but one woman in every six remain un
married.
Billiards have been brought into high
favor in Spain by the Queen Mother,
Maria Christina.
The first woman to hold the office of
President of the Colorado Academy of
Science is Mrs. Cornelia Miles, the
principal of a Denver school.
Miss Grace George, the popular
actress, lias one of the most valuable
private libraries in New York City, her
book shelves bearing hundreds of old
plays and many rare first editions.
The Queen of Portugal, Maria Pin,
has joined the rank of the automo
bilists. She has recently ordered a
powerful machine, in which, it is said,
site intends to make extensive tours.
The Massachusetts Eclectic Medical
| Society has elected a Manchester, N.
11., woman President, and she is said
to he the first woman thus honored
by any medical society in New Eng
land.
Miss Hannah 11. Clark, the new Dean
of Women at Knox College, has made
sociology and sanitary science her spe
cial studies since she was graduated
from Smith College in ISS7. She was
awarded a degree by Chicago Univer
city in 1597, and has pursued her stud
ies in Europe at different times.
Miss Grace Lincoln Temple, of Wash
ington, D. C., is one of the first women
to achieve distinction as a mural
painter. The 'children's room in the
Smithsonian, tlie Cosmos Club, and the
dome and walls of the woman's build
ing, at the Atlanta Exposition, are ex
amples of her work. She has also dec
orated many private houses.
Mrs. Editii White, of Bennington, Yt.,
has received a small fortune as a re
ward for a kind act. Years ago she he
friended a stranger, who said he would
remember her in his will. Mrs. White
had forgotten the episode, when The
other day she was notified* that $17,-
r>(X had been deposited in her name
at St. Louis, Mo. The stranger had
died and left her that amount.
<$ <g
fhr
Plaid bolts have postillion backs and
large dull silver buckles.
Dangling drops of cord are used upon
all fabrics from cbilt'on lo heavy elolh.
Slightly carved side combs of tor
toise shell are cut in deep sharp points.
• Scotch plaid silks on the bias vie
with lizard and snake skins in favor
for automobile bags.
i.'repe de eliine, in cream, is em
broidered in black and white floss to
represent ermine tails for evening
wear.
Small flat hone buttons are shown
in shades of blue, browns and greens
for trimming the new fall shirt waist
suits.
Parisian pearls, cut in padoga shapes,
are strung together closely, with many
intervening gold links, to form the new
est neck chain.
The latest improvement in the liaek
comli, designed to keep stray locks in
place, is n broad curved band which
extends across the top.
Oriental -cushions lor cozy corners
are folded in square envelope manner,
and the joinings are concealed with
\ariegated flat moss trimmings.
The newest neck chains merely en
circle the neck loosely, instead of hang
ing to the waist. They are shown in
pink and white pearls of graduating
sizes.
The bolero eoat and the pouched
elotli bodice arc again in evidence, but
the bolero is now provided with a
tailed back, while the pouched bodice
will be fottud with a short shaped
basque all round.
The ostrich feather boas, both black
and white, and the two combined, llnd
rivals In the white colored feathers
that exactly match the whole tone of
the costume. This Is specially com
mendable in gray of the tender pearl
tone.
HINTS ABOUT
HOUSEKEEPING^
Foster Wall Papers.
Among the novelties in Parisian wall
papers are some striking poster effects.
One is a grotesque lizard and fox de
sign. Another is a girl's figure in a
poster frieze, with a moire side wall.
Another fubric effect in the side wall
has bunches o- cherries, and in the
frieze is a little poster boy picking the
fruit. In another, birds are flying over
the side wall, wi-h poster cats watch
ing them from the frieze.
Making Kinglets.
Every mother likes to see her baby
with curly hair, and if is not natur
ally so it can he made to grow so with
very little care. The baby's hair
should, of course, bo washed and
brushed every morning, but when the
brushing is done, do not leave the hair
smooth, but with the tips of the fingers
rub the hair in little circles from right
to left all over the scalp. This twists
the hair at the roots and produces the
much desired curls.
To Clean Oriental Hues.
When a flue Oriental rug is to be
cleaned it may be sent to a cleaner's
or washed at hopse. At a good clean
er's they will put U in a machine which
removes the dust with a strong cur
rent of air. But It can be washed with
out fear of Injury, as most Oriental
rugs are washpd many times before
reaching this country, and the colors
are only mellowed by it. Stretch and
tack the rug dh a clean floor, and scour
well with soapsuds. Then rinse it
thoroughly and leave in position till
quite dry.—New York Tribune,
Setting* For a Library.
The elaborate bindings which char
acterize the hundreds of "latest" hooks
continually on the market have forced
book buyers, if only to be consistent,
to give their library a proper setting.
With comparatively little trouble you
can fix up a beautiful little corner for
your books, which you will find the
most restful nnd delightful room in the
house.
In the first place a soft shade of old
blue In raw silk will give you beautiful
curtains for your hook shelves. Bun
a slender brass rod in a loose casing
at the top of the curtain without up
standing ruffle. Chinese wares in blue
nnd white, exquisite grees nnd strong
yellow make lovely hits of color as
vases. Search the Chinese and Jap
anese stores for your large vase, and,
if possible, place it on a stand of carved
teakwood.
An Egyptian jar of figured brass
makes a charming jardiniere to drop
a potted plant in. Such a piece as this
should have an Oriental taborette un
der it. Raw silk curtain over Arabian
not would give you pretty window
draperies. In this case the Arabian net
with border and perhaps inserting
bangs straight nnd slightly full next
the window, over curtains of blue; raw
silk can then be draped back if you so
desire.—New York Journal.
pjt_RECTPES: £
Fruit Tapioca—Soak one cupful tapi
oca over night. In the morning cook
in double boiler in a quart of water un
til transparent. When done add a cup
of sugar, one tablespoon lemon juice
and throe or four sliced bananas. Serve
cold with plain or whipped cream.
Other fruit may he substituted for ba
nanas.
Plain Waffles—lleat a pint of milk
and add half a cup of butter; stir until
melted, then cool and add the well
beaten yolks of three eggs and salt to
suit the taste. Stir the liquid into two
cups of flour, making a smooth, thin
batter. Beat the whites of eggs lo a
stiff froth and fold in, but do not
beat again. Bake immediately on a
hot, well greased iron. The batter
nnist be thin enough to spread quickly
when poured Into the waffle iron.
Quince Butter—Pare and core the
quinces, cutting them up rather fine;
cover with water and cook until ten
der. Place the skins and cores in an
other kettle with just sufficient water
to prevent their burning and cook until
soft; then strain off the juice and add
to the quinces. To each pound of fruit
allow three-fourths of a pound of
sugar. Boil down until it is smooth
and thick; stir frequently, as it will
burn easily. Put in jars and seal like
jelly and keep in a cool, dry jilacc.
Boiled Dressing—This is nice for cold
slaw or may he used with other vege
table salads. Mix a dessert spoonful
of dry mustard, half a tenspoonful of
salt, quarter of a teaspoonful of white
pepper, half a teaspoonful of celery
salt, with a large tablespoonful of
butter. Stir in thoroughly the beaten
yolks of two eggs and heat all to a
cream, then heat in a cup of cream,
sour or sweet (if milk is used add an
other egg). Stir nnd cook in a double
holler until it begins to thicken, lie
move at once from the fire, and when
cold heat in two or three tablospoonfuls
of vinegar. A little sugar Improves
this dressing; but do not make it too
swe-it
SHOES COBBLED BY MACHINES.
Worn Footgear Mar Ke Repaired Willi*
You Walt.
Machines to do "cobbling." repair
ing worn-out shoes, is the latest. The
process is described as follows by the
Providence Journal:
Tile outworn shoes come into the
shop with nothing of any value save
the tops. The dilapidated heels and
soles are taken off by one man, who in
turn hands the work on to another
special department. A thin strip of
leather called the welt is sewed around
the under part of the shoe with a ma
chine called the "welt stitcher." The
welt is the foundation for the sole, and
to this thtn border of leather the heavy
tap will be firmly fastened at last. The
process occupies just eighteen seconds,
and when done in a far rougher man
ner by hand three-quarters of an hour
Is required.
The bottom of the shoes inside the
welt is now- tilled with cork and other
water-proof ingredients. Then the high
grade white oak leather sole is laid
on the bottom, but it is not yet lime
to sew it on. A machine called the
"channeler" swiftly cuts a half-inch
gash around the lower edge of the sole.
Tliis process is rapidly followed by an
other machine, the "channel opener,"
which lays back the strip cut by the
"channeler."
Now everything is ready for the
"stitcher." Tile intricate mechanism
performs in a few seconds the task that
costs the hand repairer hundreds of
painful stitches, straining eyesight and
unlimited time. Furthermore the ma
chine uses a heavier thread, tlie
stitches are tighter and more uniform.
Every portion of this machine is kept
hot to enable the waxed thread to pull
smoothly through the leather.
Overdrawn Account. l .
You have a deposit of nervous energy
placed to your account in the hank of
your body. It may be large, in which
happy case you are a millionaire in
strength and accomplishing power. Or
It may be so microscopic as to need
careful husbanding and little expendi
ture to keep it from dwindling out al
together.
But many millionaires become pau
pers and some "dime savings" swell
into millions. It depends upon th
way the capital is managed. You may
think you have so much tlint there is
no need to me economical. You get
up in the morning and feel the blood
bounding through your veins like
mountain cataracts, and you think you
can turn the mill wheels of the world.
You work day and night, or you
play day and night, which is some
times more exhausting, and go at the
limit of your speed all the time. You
nre overdrawing your hank account of
energy, and Unit needlessly, for you
probably have enough to last a long
and useful lifetime. It pays to sit down
and sharpen your tools, and it adds
cent per cent to your body bank de
posit.
Another with not half your brains
or bustle will get ahead of you in the
end, for he makes every act, every
thought, go straight to the mark. lie
wastes no effort. Everything he does
means something; it helps toward
some given end. You spend a great
deal of ammunition 011 your quarry be
cause you arc over-anxious. lie keeps
cool, takes steady aim and wings his
bird.
You get wrinkleß and frost-tipped
temples and become n bankrupt in
vitality when you should he in your
prime. Yon have overdrawn the best
nnd most valuable bank account the
Lord over placed on the books of life—
the ability "to love and to work nnd to
play and to look up at the stars."—
Now York Herald.
Old "Castor" fine* For Junlc.
The announcement that the obsolete
wooden frigate, his Majesty's ship Cas
tor, has been handed over to the ship
breakers nt Sheerness, says the Lon
don Telegraph, recalls an exciting in
cident In the history of the old vessel.
After taking part in the Syrian cam
paign of 1810, the Castor was subse
quently employed 011 the northwest
const of Ireland. In 1817 the frigate
was unfortunate enough to run into
and sink her Majesty's cruiser Dili
gence, while riding at anchor, drown
ing most of the crew. The Diligence
nt the time was under the command of
Sir John Iteid, and the affair naturally
created a sensation In naval circles.
The officer of the watch 011 board tlie
frigate was removed from the navy,
but was afterward reinstated, and ap
pointed to the coastguard service. The
service promptly dubbed the unlucky
frigate the "Blind Castor," a name
which stuck to her for Hie rest of her
career. For many years the Castor
had been employed at South Shields
as a drill-ship for the ltoynl Naval Ite
serve.
Riihieft Kept in (lie Oven.
That nti oven may make a good baby
incubator has been proved by the fact
that the twin babies of Mr. and Mrs.
.1. W. Simmons, of Des Moines, lowa,
have been kept in an oven for a period
of three weeks during which their
little lives seemed to liaug by a thread.
The infants were born three weeks
ago. One weighed three and a half
pounds and the other three pounds,
and each was twenty-six inches long.
Both are girls.
At the time of their birth 1 lie physi
cians said they considered it impossible
lor Hit frail little bodies to bo kept
alive, although it might he possible
with the aid of an incubator for sev
eral weeks to nurse tliem until tiiey
could gain more vitality.
The oven of a large range was im
mediately converted into an incubator
nnd the little girls' grandmother took
charge of the funny baby house. With
constant watching the heat was kept
uniform.
The infants were kept in a basket
in the oven for three weeks, and are
now In a healthy condition.—New
York Sur,
fe fc r%i J
Now- York City.—Loose coats make
the feature of the season for young
girls as well as for their elders, and ap
pear in many variations. This smart
LOOSE COAT FOR A MISS.
May Mantou model includes the fash
ionable slot seams, one of the newest
sleeves and the shoulder eapes that are
so much in vogue, but can be made
without these last when a plainer gar
ment is desired.
The coat is cut with loose fronts and
hacks that fit loosely and is laid in in
verted pleats, stitched to give the slot
seam elTect. At each front, on the line
of the slot seams, is inserted a pocket
that adds greatly to both the conve
nience and style of the coat. The
sleeves are slightly bell-shaped and are
finished with roll over cuffs. The little
"SLOT SEAM" BLOUSE AND NINE GORED "SLOT SEAM" SKIRT.
capes are circular and can ho used or
omitted as preferred. At the neck is a
roll-over collar that fits snugly about
the throat. The right side of Iho coat
laps well over the left and is held by
buttons and loops, lull buttons and but
tonholes can he substituted whenever
tlioy may be desired.
Oiio of the miil Latent Deftignn.
"Slot seams" are among the features
found in the best and latest designs
and lend themselves lo coats, waists
and skirts with equal success. The
stylish May Mauton blouse illustrated
in the large drawing is shown in castor
colored cloth and istrimmed with fancy
applique braid in castor and brown
shades. Ti is worn as a separate wrap,
but the design suits the entire cos
tume and all tin* season's suit and
Jacket materials equally well. The
broad shawl collar is novel and becom
ing. and is especially smart and can be
made smaller if desired. The blouse is
fitted with the fashionable double slot
seams that extend to the shoulders on
fronts and back, uudcr-nrm and shoul
der seams completing the adjustment.
To the lower edge of hack are attached
shapely pointed talis, and basque por
tions with rounded corners tit smooth
ly over the hips. Tin* belt which
crosses in front has ends pointed to
match the talis in back and conceals
the joinings of these portions. The
sleeves as shown are in hell shapes,
and allow of slipping on and .off with
ease, but can he gathered into cuffs in
bishop style when preferred. The
blouse can be worn open to the waist
line or buttoned over as shown in the
small cut.
The quantity of material required for
the medium size is four and three
quarter yards twenty-one inches wide,
two and a half yards forty-four inches
wide or two and a quarter yards til'ty
two inches wide.
Slot seam effects are much in vogue
and are seen upon many of the smart
est skirts.
The skirt shown in the large picture
is cut in nine gores. At the edge of
each gore are laid tuck pleats that
meet to form the slot seams, and nre
stitched flat to flounce depth, the seam
proper being bidden at uuderfolded
pleat.
The pleats fall free at the lower edge
to provide the fashionable flare. The
fulness a,t the back is laid In inverted
pleats tliat are pressed flat nnd can be
stitched several inches from the top as
illustrated or to correspond with the
other pleats if so desired.
The quantity of material required for
the medium size is seven and a quarter
yards twenty-seven inches wide, four
and seven-eighth yards forty-four
inches wide or four and a half yards
iifty-two inches wide when material
has figure or nap; six and three-quarter
yards twenty-seven inches wide, three
and three-quarter yards forty-four
inches wide, or three and five-eighth
yards fifty-two inches wide when ma
terial lias neither figure nor nap.
Woman's Moose or Shirt Waist.
Princess closings, or closings made
invisibly beneath two box plea-Is that
meet in centre front, make an impor
tant feature of the latest waists, and
are essentially smart nt the same time
that they possess tire advantage of al
lowing most effective trimming. This
handsome May Mauton model includes
inverted pleats, stitched to form the
fashionable slot seams for a few inches
below the shoulders, the pointed straps
over the shoulder seams and a belt
with postillions. The original is made
of waist clolb, in pastel green with
trimming of narrow bands of black
silk, slitclied with black corticelli silk,
and enamelled buttons, but all waist
materials are appropriate and the trim
ming can he varied again and again.
I The foundation lining is snugly fitted
j and closes at the centre front, but sep-
arately from the outside. The waist
propel' consists of a plain back and
fronts tliat arc laid in Inverted pleats
at flic shoulders, which provide becom
ing fulness over the bust, and in a box
pleat at each edge. The back is drawn
down snugly in gathers at the waist
line, but the fronts blouse slightly over
Ihe licit. Over the shoulder seams are
"Or
BLOUSE on SHIItT WAIST,
applied straps tliat give tlie fashion
able long-shouldered effect, Init which
can he omitted when a plain linish i*
preferred.
The sleeves are the regulation ones
wllli cuffs that lap over at the inside
scams. The closing is effected invisi
bly by lapping the right edge well be
neath the left box pleat and so bring
ing the two together at tho centre
front. The neck is finished with a
stock elongated in bishop style, and at
the waist is worn a shaped belt to
which the postillion is attached.
The quantity of material required for
the medium size is four and three-quar
ter yards twenty-one inches wide, four
yards twenty-seven Inches wide, three
and a quarter yards thirty-two inches
wide or two and tivc-cigUth yards for
ty-four inches wido.