THE
-lAIR
The New Antumn Belts.
The day of freak belts is passing, but
fcuckles this season will be perhaps
even laiger and more elaborate than
heretofore. Leather belts of fine green
.walrus, lined with gray ooze calf, with
fiquarc flat harness buckles, giving a
pronounced dip front effect, are espe
cially attractive for street wear. But
the fabric belt will hold first place for
ftlie coming season. These are in all
Bhades of green, of course also red and
White plaid tuffeta. Buckles are now
(Used botli front and back, the two con
stituting a "waist set."
A Fine Woman Whip.
Lady Ilowe is one of the best whips
, 111 England, and is one of the very few
JJf women who can drive a high-mettled
team gracefully and successfully in the
Btreets of London. That she is an au
thority on driving is proved by her
(being asked to contribute a chapter to
the volume of "The Badminton Li
brary," dealing with that subject. An
other of Lady Howe's fortes is elec
tioneering, ail art in which her sister
tn-law, Mrs. George Cornwallis-West,
formerly Lady Itaudolph Churchill,
excels. These two women secured the
late Lord Itaudolph Churchill's election
to Woodstock in ISBS without his going
near the place.
A Yankee Countess.
The Countess of Orford is a very
pretty woman. She Is one of the Amer
ican aristocracy, for the countess is the
i daughter of Mr. T>. C. Corbyn, of New
4 York. Tile Earl, who is descended
JIK from the great Sir Robert Walpole, is
flust forty-eight, says Woman's Life,
and was attached to the Karl of Ross
lyn's special embassy at the wedding
of the King of Spain in 1877, while in
the next year he was private secretary
to Sir Henry Prunimond WoßT's East
ern Roumolian Commission, and be ac
companied him to Egypt in 18SC. The
Enrl and Countess have had two chil
dren, a little boy who died when he
was only two, and a girl who is Just
thirteen.
Exorcise For the Nerti.
To develop the neck the first move
ment consists In allowing the head to
drop gently upon the breast, as far for
ward as it will without straining. Next
raise the head and throw it as far back
as possible. Then forward ngain, etc.,
until the movement has been per
formed twenty times. Next the head
fls turned as far to the side as possible,
the body remaining motionless, the
bend bent toward the shoulder as low
as it will reach without an netual strain
of tile muscles and tendons. This
movement should be practised also
twenty times, the neck first turned to
the right and then to the left, ten times
on each side. The same movement
with the chin raised as high as possi
ble, repeated in the same fashion, first
toward tiie right, then the left.
Education of Working Girls.
Interesting statistics In regard to the
education of working girls are being
obtained by the National League of
Workers under the direction of
the Department of Labor in Washing
ton. A schedule is sent out to working
girls in which data regarding birth, na
tionality, education and religious train
lng are sought. To discover the pro
• gress of the girl in earning power in
\ qulry is made concerning occupations
(for pay) and earnings since going to
Work, specifying both tho industry and
the occupation. Searching inquiry is
;made into the present occupation,
hours and earnings of working girls,
including hours of work on Saturday,
rate of pay for Saturday and fines. A
girl who was born and always has
lived in New York City, went to paro
chial school between the ages of six
and fourteen yenrs. After leaving
school to go to work as a stock girl she
took a course in bookkeeping in a night
school, but as she remained only three
weeks it was of little use to her. In a
girls' club the girl attended millinery
class for four weeks, a dancing class
for six weeks and a class in stenogra
phy for three weeks. She learned
neither to cook nor to sew at home.
She began to work at tho wage of SO a
i Week, and at the end of five years has
#. raised that to $3 a week. A gill who
could neither read nor write, she says,
could do the work she is doing and
earn as much pay.
llow to Sit nnl Hi HO.
"My dear," said the old lady, "it is
worse than a crime; it is ill bred."
Nothing points out the well bred
Woman more quickly tlinn tile position
she takes when she sits down. The
stamp of vulgarity is marked upon tho
woman who sits with her knees spreud
far apart; lack of refinement is shown
by knees crossed offensively; lack of
ease by stiff and constrained positions
of the shoulders; a general carelessness
and indifference by the very common
fault of "sitting in the shoulders," that
Is, of doubling up the spine so that the
Jh upper rather than the lower part of it
rests against the back of the chair.
The body should be placed well back
upon the seat, chair, sofa or whatever
It may be. The feet Bhould rest on the
floor, one somewhat in front of the
other, because it is easier to rise from
that position. The bead must be kept
well up and the chest poised slightly
forward.
( The lower part of the spine may be
pressed against the frame of the chali,
but if one, after sitting a -while, should
need to rest a little more, the shoulders
may also touch upon the same sup
port. The hands should remain as
they naturally fall from this position,
hanging at the sides, or they may be
placed easily over the arms or back of
the chair or allowed to lie reposefully
on the lap.
To rise properly from a correct sit
ting position there should be several
preparatory movements.
The chest is first poised far forward
and at the same time the foot is drawn
back under the sent. The foot drawn
in should be the one opposite from the
direction to be taken in starting up.
As you rise throw the weight firmly
upon the foot in the rear. As the body
comes to its full height change the
weight to the forward foot, so that the
other foot merely touches the floor
very lightly. This brings you to a
standing position, ready to walk easily
in the direction you are going.
Ugly sitting positions and awkward
movements in rising will disappear if
these principles are followed. New
York Herald.
Vftncy Work For Pernonal Wear.
Muslin appears to be growing greatly
in favor for art needlework. Many
workers use muslin as a foundation or
ground upon which to paint. When
hacked or lined with a good satin the
sheen of the rich material shows very
effectively through, and a table centre j
can be daintily tinished with puttings
or frills of chiffon. Also an overlay
of muslin is useful in softening or ton
ing down any hard or metallic effect,
such as is given by moire silk, etc.
A new kind of work is lace royal, and
here we have muslin over net as a
foundation or material to work upon.
Large collars and trimmings for dresses
in this are really charming. A grace
ful design in violets and leaves was
traced and then finely embroidered in
delicate tints with filo-floss silk, the
outline or shape of collar was closely
buttonholed with silk, and the raw
edges then out neatly away. The ef
fect of net under the muslin is good,
and, while it gives additional strength,
at the same time does not detract from
the lightness of the material.
Another good design in this work is
that of a V-shaped front (to he used as
a vest! and straight hands or insertion
like trimming for collar and cuffs. Of
course, any shape or style can be de
signed with endless variations as to
flowers and coloring. Heather is a
charming little flower to embroider
where lightness is desired, its green
sprigs and dainty flower heads are so
quickly and easily done. Where a blue
phade is required, cornflowers and tiny
daisies and buttercups are pretty.
A very fine but exceedingly firm mus
lin is supplied for table centres, etc.,
and our of this material seen recently
was embroidered with carnations, fine
ly worked with a single thread of silk,
and beautifully shaded In filo-floss.
Sprays of the carnations (crimson and
yellow) were loosely tied together with
narrow blue ribbons, also embroidered,
and the edges of the centre closely but
tonholed with blue silk to match the
ribbon.
Before working, take the design (if
the work is bought ready designed,
trace the design upon paper), and, af
ter deciding on the colors, roughly
paint them in and you will then see if
you like the effect beforehand. Also
where leaves and petals have to he
curved or turned, paint or pencil in the
shade and trace the direction in which
the stitches should go; this is of great
assistance, particularly sketching tho ;
direction the stitches should taken, as j
it avoids unpicking.—New York Com- j
mei'clal Advertiser.
Fashion's Fac!&
A X
and
'fancier
Squirrel fifr la to be exceedingly pop
ular this winter.
Large lace corsage collars ornament
many very attractive bodices.
The outer garment with a fitted back
is the rare exception this season.
The most exclusive tnilors are mak
ing their latest Norfolk Jackets without
yokes.
The latest change in skirt hip yokes
is to linve them elongated into a panel
effect in front.
A braid made of feathers is among
the more pronounced novelties in the
millinery world.
Lace will be used to repletion as a
garniture not only on thin fabrics, hut
on cloth and fur as well.
Braids, passementerie and buttons
used in novel forms are among the
popular autumn trimmings.
Fullness below the elbow, in several
degrees of moderation, is a noticeable
point of all the new sleeves.
Taffeta still lends the silk world as
the popular favorite for outside gar
ments, full costumes and linings.
Queen's mourning is Just another
name for the magpie combination, the
black and white effect, so fashionable
now.
A fancy velvet season is predicted,
but time has yet to verify the general
adoption of such unusual and fancy
stuffs.
A chiffon veil with an open-work
border in self or contrasting tint is
unique, hut too bizarre to be warmly
welcomed.
Antique lnee Ih filet is the embodi
ment of exclusive style. Beautiful
skirts arc made of It in an open inser
tion on a coarse linen foundation.
; ' '- v -' .- "' m T| "| y
New York City.—Pastel shades are
returning to favor, and will be seen In
heavy elotb for street and carriage
wear this season. A delicate china
VANCY WAIST WITH FIVB-QOBBD SKIRT.
blue cloth Is shown here with black
velvet trimmings.
The waist Is mounted on a glove
fitted feather-boned lining flint closes
In the centre front and is faced with
relvet to a rounded yoke depth at the
back. The cloth Is drawn smoothly
across the shoulders and displays
slight fulness at the waist.
The front plastron Is Included In the
armseye and right shoulder seams, and
permanently attached to the lining. It
fastens Invisibly on the left side and Is
completed with a velvet collar.
The full fronts are gathered at the
upper edge and arranged to outline a
NORFOLK SKIRT.
round yoke. They open in front to
display the plastron as far as the
belt. The edges are completed with
narrow bands of chiffon applique, and
the waist blouses stylishly over the
belt.
Inside seams are used to shape the
upper portions of the sleeves. They
are tucked from shoulder to elbow and
fit the arm closely. Puffs formed by |
tlie fulness below the tucks are gath
ered at the lower edges and attached
to deep cuffs of velvet. Turquoise
charming effect.
Tlie skirt is made with five gores,
narrow front and sides and wide backs,
fitted smoothly around tlie waist and
over the hips without darts. The ful
ness in flic centre hack is arranged in
an underlying pleat at each side of
the centre closing. These pleats are
flatly pressed, giving the habit effect,
hut providing additional fulness
around the bottom.
To make the waist in the medium
size will require one and one-half
yards of forty-four-inch material with
one yard of velvet for trimming.
To make the skirt lu tile medium size
will require live and tlnee-quarter
yards of forty-four-inch material.
I.ndluß' Street Costume.
"Queen's mourning" is the new name
given a fabric that was known as
snowflake homespun, a dark ground
with small, white tufts, or light gray
ground with black spots. The latter
is used in the large Illustration to de
velop an exceedingly smart walking
suit.
The Norfolk jacket is fitted witli
backs, underarm gores and single
darted fronts. It Is shaped to tlie fig
ure and lias a slight box effect in front.
Deep pleats on each side of tlie cen
tre hack arc flatly stitched to preseut
a slope effect from nock to belt, provid
ing a stylish fulness over the hips.
The fronts fasten In double-breasted
style with fancy pearl buttons. They
are deeply underfaced with eloth and
rolled back to form revel's that meet
the turn-down collar in notches.
Applied pleats are arranged from
shoulder to hem, back and front,
stitched on the edges. A narrow gray
velvet belt encircles the waist.
The sleeves are regulation two-piece
coat models, with slight fulness on the
shoulders. They fit the arm closely,
and are finished with shallow cuff fac
ings.
The skirt Is made with seven well
proportioned gores, fitted smoothly
around the waist and hips without
darts. The fulness in the centre back
is arranged In an underlying pleat at
each side of tho closing.
The adjustment is sheath-fitting from
waist to knee, hut from that point each
gore flares gracefully, and there is a
wide sweep at the floor.
Velvet ribbon is applied down the
seams and forms fans at the lower
edge of each gore. These are fastened
by large velvet buttons. The stylo is
especially becoming to stout figures.
Broad or ladies' cloth, zibeliue, wool
canvas,, Venetian cheviot, or covert
are appropiate fabrics for this mode,
with braid or stitched bands' of the
material for trimming.
To make tile jacuet in tho medium
size will require two and three-quarter
yards of forty-four-inch material.
To make the skirt in the medium size
will require four and one-quarter yards
of forty-four-inch material.
Circular Skirt With I'loatod Flo unco.
Flounces are much worn on all skirts
this season, and look especially well
as a trimming for short skirts, as they
seem to flare more gracefully when
tliey do not touch the ground.
The skirt illustrated is made of pearl
grny poplin, with Irish crochet lace
for trimming. It is of circular shap
ing, fitted smoothly arouuel the waist
and hips with small darts. The ful
ness lu the back is arranged in an un
derlying pleat at each side of the centre
closing. The pleats arc ilatly pressed,
and present a habit effect, the skirt
fitting closely from waist to knee.
The flounce is arranged in deep side
pleats that are backward turning and
form a box pleat iu front. They are
stitched down part way and flare styl
ishly from the point where the stitch
ing ceases to the lower edge. Bands
of lace are applied 011 the hem and at
tlie top of tho flounce.
Skirts in this style made be made
of broad or ladies' cloth, Venetian,
covert, cheviot, serge or Henrietta, and
trimmed with ribbon lace, or bunds of
the material, machine stitched.
ATTRACTIVE USE OF FROUNCES.
To make this skirt for a miss of
fourteen years will require three and
one-half yards of forty-four-iuch mate
rial.
Young girls at i| j!^^\
this period of life, jjfl J y t \
or their mothers, xJJ / f 1
are earnestly in- * '
vited to write Mrs. B#i
Pinkham for advice; all such letters are
strictly confidential; she has guided in a
motherly way hundreds of young women;
and her advice is freely and cheerfully given.
School days arc danger days for American girls.
Often physical collapse follows, and it takes years to recover th*
lost vitality. Sometimes it is never recovered.
Perhaps they aro not over-carcful about keeping their feet dry;
through carelessness in this respect tho monthly sickness is usually
rendered very severe.
Then begim ailments which should bo removed at once, or they will
S reduce constant suffering. Headache, faintness, slight vertigo, pains I
l the back and loins, irrogularity, loss of sleep and appetite, a tendency
to avoid the society of others, are symptoms all indicating that woman's
arch-enemy is at hand.
Eydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound has helped many a
young girl over thi3 critical period. With it they have gone through
their trials with courage and safety. Ivith its proper use the young
girl is safe from tho peculiar dangers of school years and prepared for
hearty womanhood.
A Young Chicago Girl " Studied Too Hard."
" Dear Mii 3. Pi nkhasi : I wish to thank you for the help and ben-j
eflt I have received through tho use of I.ydia E. Pinkham's Vege
table Compound and Liver Pills. When I was about seventeen
years old I suddenly seemed to lose my usual good
health and vitality. Father said I studied too
hard, hut the doctor thought different and
~ * -fley", prescribed tonics, which I took by the
quart without relief. Reading one day in
the paper of Mrs. Pinkham's great cures,
ancl finding tho symptoms described an-
Y& wSfflteffiz swered mine, I decided I would givo Lydia
/ E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound a
• trial I did not say a word to the doctor;
IftAw* I bought it myself, and took it according
KaSa to directions regularly for two months,
and I found that I gradually improved,
9 \ and that all pains left me, and 1 was my
tsssSPy*' tf 'J r old self or.co more. l.illie E. Sinclair,
/ ' 17 E. 22d St., Chicago 111."
"Miss Pratt Unable to Attend School."
•Dear Mrs. Pinicham : I feel it my duty to tell all young women
how much Eydia E. Pinkham's wonderful Vegetable Compound lias
dono for me. I was completely run down, unable, to attend school, and
did not care for any kind of society, but now I feel like a new person,
and have gained seven pounds of flesh in three months.
" I recommend it to all young women who suffer from female weak
ness."— Miss Alma Pratt, Ilolly, Mich.
Eydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound is the one sure rem
edy to bo rolled upon at this important period in a young girl's life.
{ft Cdflfl FORFEIT If cannot forthwith produce the original letters and signatures of
VMimi above testiiiiuaiali. which will pruvo their absolute gi-nuinuiiosa.
IjJvVww Lydiii 12. Piukliam Mediciue Co., Lyuu, MM,
Rescued by an Owl.
King Robert the Bruce, according to
the well-known story, once owed his
safety to a spider. Among the Tar
tars of Central Asia there is a belief
that one of their khans or chiefs was
preserved, long years ago, by the
Great Horned Owl. He had hidden ill
a thicket to avoid capture by some
enemies. By antf by his pursuers
came to this spot. The first thing they
saw was an owl sitting en a bush.
What did this mean? It signified in
their eyes that this bird would not
rest quietly there if any man were
lying concealed close by. Therefore
they argued that tho khan could not
be there, and so they hurried on to
search for him elsewhere. At night
fall the khan made his way to the
camp of his men, and told them how
he had been saved from certain death.
His story caused them ever afterward
in look upon the owl with reverence
and love. They wore its feather in
their caps as a pledge of victory.
! ST. JACOBS I
OIL
| POSITIVELY CURES |
Rheumatism
Neuralgia
8 Backache 8
Headache
Feclache g
All Bodily Aches rj
AND o
I CONQUERS ji
f PAIN. f
<woooocHXH>ofK>o twcio c o o scaoo
IN WET WEATHER
A WISE MAM
OILED ;
JA WATERPROOF
CLOTHING
Will. KEEP YOU DRY KOm^ELsTwilL
•TAKE NO SUBSTITUTES • CATALOGUES FREE
SHOWING FULL LINE OF GARMENTS AND HATS
A.;).TOWER CO.. BOSTON. MAS 3. 461
ROENTGEN RAYS.
They Ar Now Being Successfully
Used for Treatment of Animals.
Roentgen rays are now being suc
cessfully employed In Germany for
treatment of animals. Professor
Hoffman, director of the Royal Veter
inary Hospital in Stuttgart, has em
ployed them with uniform satisfac
tion. He began by using the rays on
dead horses in order to establish the
time of exposure necessary for vari
ous parts of the body and organs.
Later a Roentgen picture was taken
of a live race horse which had brok
en Its log. In order to ascertain wheth
er the parts were well adjusted. Me
dium timid and well-behaved animals
have been photographed with the
rays apparatus without special pre
cautionary methods if familiar with
the noise of the camera outfit. Un
manageable horses have been proto
graphed after being harnessed with
heavy blinkers and dosed with sooth
ing medicine. X-ray pictures of ani
mals, Professor Hoffman says, are of
highly practical value, enabling the
detection of a variety of uasoases.
with cattle also they are destined, ho
thinks, ta play an important role. Ifo
even thinks it possible to foeate tu
lerci.'osis germs or dlsea>l paitlilr?,
Tn a regp.tlve way the ravs will cor
rect common mistakes of veterinary
men, who, through hlfnd diagnosis,
are often Jed to administer the wrong
sort of treatment.
If great cold turned GUV atmosphera
to liquid air it would make a eea 35
foot deep ever UltS siilTaco uf thq
whole globe,