A CHAT ABOUT COFFEE
SOME STEADY DRINKERS BECOME
FOND OF THE ADULTERANTS.
A Secret About Old Government Java
Very Small Quantity of It brought to
This Country —An Under-roasted Cof
fee is Pronounced Surely Unfit to I>rink.
An old friend asked the other day
what kind of coffee I used, and on be
ing informed that it was the usual
mixture of Arabian Mocha and Mand
heling Java, half and half, at 40 cents
a pound, offered this amazing informa
tion: "I am obliged to have a strong
<wp of coffee in the morning. Without
it lam unable to attend to business. I
try to buy the best in the market and
for years have paid from 40 to 45
cents a pound for Moeha and Java. Not
long ago I learned a secret. A great
deal of the alleged Java we buy at big
prices is Maracaibo, which under its
real name costs only 15 cents a pound."
A member of the Coffee exchange
says: "I am not surprised to hear
that Maraeaibo is often sold for Java.
In England it has been the rule rather
than the exception for a long time to
substitute the Guatemala product for
that of Java, and probably the con
sumers never know the difference. The
production of Java is steadily failing
off. Indeed, the government is grad
ually giving up the cultivation of cof
fee, finding the profits small in com
parison witn former years, and in the
near future the crop will be entirely
in the hanos of private planters. Of
late the business has been so unre
munerative that many coffee estates
have been turned into tea farms. We
import about 800,000,000 pounds of cof
fee, and of this huge quantity only
about a million and a quarter pounds
are Java. In 1898 our supply of Java
was near 0.500,000 pounds."
This broker continues: "The de
mand for Java has been sustained by
its name. During the civil war a bag
of 'Old Government' was worth its
weight in gold. While the army was
making coffee out of burnt potatoes the
stay-at-homes were sipping small cups
of this treasure, which was measured
out as carefully as if it were the rar
est wine. The name has lived in the
memories of the old folk, and Its po
tency has been the encouragement and
excuse for much fraud. Even the
cheapest store has pretended to keep
on hand a supply of 'Old Government'
for customers who would not think of
drinking anything else, and I doubt
if one of them ever had an ounce of
the genuine article in stock. There
are coffees quite as good as Java, and
I am glad the people are beginnig to
wean themselves from 'Old Govern
ment.'
"Because Maraeaibo is cheap in price
you must not believe it a 'cheap' cof
fee, in the sense of inferiority. We
import about 43,000,000 pounds annu
ally. In 1890 it was invoiced to us at
• a fraction over 8 cents a pound. In
1900 the price was about 1 cent high
er. Rio will always be our cheap cof
fee, I suppose, because there is more
of it, and there will continue to be
more of it. The Brazilian crop is over
1,100,000,000 pounds. Think of that.
Why, it is 400,000,000 pounds* more
than the United State 3 consumes. Most
of the Rio used in public houses is
mixed with chicory, which greatly
improves the taste.
"Steady coffee drinkers who are not
able to obtain a satisfactory brand
of the bean become so fond of certain
adulterants that they demand them.
Take chicory: It has an injurious ef
fect on the oowels if taken in too large
quantities, but all cheap restaurants
that make a specialty of coffee use it,
and proprietors have told me in all
seriousness that should the chicory be
left out for a few days and only the
pure coffee fusion be used their cus
tomers will complain and threaten to
go elsewhere. The adulteration of
ground coffee is a fine pubject for con
r gross investigation. Whew! If you
could only know what you get when
you buy it! The French use caramel
or burnt sugar, a cast-off product of
the refineries. And everybody brags
about 'French coffee.' Among other
adulterations are roasted wheat and
beans, rye and potato flour, acorns,
ground date stones, etc. Coffee sub
stitutes are flooding the market—cere
als, essences, etc.
"It is a hard matter to adulterate
the green bean, and nearly as difficult
to adulterate the roasted bean; but
ground coffee is dangerous. The peo
ple who roast their own coffee, a small
quantity at a time, have the best infu
sion and save the most money. It is
the rule among certain firms to under
roast the bean in order to escape the
less in weight, which is considerable.
An under-roasted coffee is unfit to
> drink. Beans cooked to a reddish
brown color lose 15 percent, when
chestnut brown they lose about 20
percent, and when they become dark
brown, the correct color, they lose
about 25 percent, by weight. In cer
tain. South American countries, Colom
bia, for instance, the bean is cooked
until it becomes a coal. The beverage
made from it is very black and strong
and clear, but has a bitter taste that
would not suit us. All coffee substi
tutes lack caffeine, and caffeine is what
makes coffee coffee.
"Coffee is poison to some people. No
question about it. Some folk find it
astringent: others laxative. Thousands
of apparatus for making it have been
invented. The patent office is packed
with pots, etc., some of which cost
$25 apiece. Yet we have seen an old
negro cook at a camp fire make the
most delicious coffee in a tomato can.
Some experts say boil the coffee; some
say don't boil it. Some foreigners pre
) fer to make it in a saucepan, and they
have it as clear as crystal and as
i strong as alcohol. While I was in Su
matra, several years ago, I drank cof
>
fee made of the dried leaves of tho
coffee tree instead of the beans. At
first I supposed they were brewing
tea. But it was as tine coffee as I have
ever tasted, and certainly contained a
large proportion of caffeine. This
ought to open new Held. My,mother
always parched her own coffee. She
was one of the 'Old Government Java'
friends, and regarded every grain as
precious. The parching was done in
an ordinary sheet-iron baking pan, and
when the dark-brown color was at
tained she glazed the beans with the
white of an egg. That was to keep in
the strength. Then she crumbled the
shell to make the coffee settle.
"I should like to own a large coffee
plantation. It is nice business—a gen
tleman's business. Several years ago
several friends of mine in Hamburg
organized a company with a capital of
$500,000 and purchased a plantation
at Quezaltenango, Guatemala. There
were all told 16,500 acres, from 2200
to 5000 feet above sea level. Some 4000
acres were planted In coffee shrubs,
over 1,500,000 being set out. Over 3000
Indians were employed as laborers.
These men met with great success.
The plants were some of the stock im
ported from Mocha by the Jesuits over
a century and a half ago, and the qual
ity of the bean produced is very supe
rior. The finest grades are sent to
London and Hamburg, where they
ietch big prices. The sweepings and
the unwashed are shipped to San
Francisco. An annual profit was made
on the investment. I look to see great
quantities of tine coffee grown in Nic
aragua, Costa Rica, Honduras. Salva
dor and Guatemala when the canal is
built."—Victor Smith, in the New
York Press.
WHISKERS OF MICE.
Eyebrows of Hours and Human Kyelaslios
Uitiitl iii One Trade.
The business done In mouse whis
kers is considerable tills year, for tlicy
are used in the making of the wonder
ful new fly for fishermen—the ' new
gray gnat." And they are expensive—
nearly two cents per whisker. Trout
rise very much better at mouse whis
ker flies than at the same "gnat"
dressed in jinglecock hackles, which
look much like them.
The trade of artificial fly making is
the lightest-fingered business In the
world, and it is not one man or woman
out of 5000 who can learn to tie files.
These tyers are remarkable for the
beauty and delicacy of their hands, and
only the cleverest of fingers can deal
with the "niggling" work of knotting
hairs that can hardly be seen.
In making a fly the earth has to be
ransacked for precisely the correct
feathers and hairs, and one hair wrong
will make all the difference.
It takes an expert tier only 15 min
utes to turn out a fly, which consists of
a tiny hook, with wings of Egyptian
dove feather, legs of l'ox hair and a
body of mouse fur, wound round with
a thread of yellow silk. A carelessly
made fly will have neither legs nor
"feelers," but the true expert adds the
legs and puts on a pair of long "feel
ers" of cat hair, white at the tips. All
these tiny details will be exactly in
their places and so finely tied to the
hook that the fly will take half a dozen
strong fish and be none the worse.
Bear's eyebrows, being stiff, and ex
actly the right shade, are used in a
newly invented fly that Is killing quan
tities of salmon this year, and these
eyebrows come from the Himalayan
brown bear and cost about $1.50 per
set. There are always agents all over
the world searching tropical forests
for the right birds to supply fly hackles
and one of the most sought after skins
Is that of the rare "green screamer,"
an African bird, about the size of a
fowl, which has a tiny bunch of feath
ers on each shoulder that are worth sls
per bunch to the flyfflaker. One of
these birds only supplies feathers
enough for half a dozen flies. Numbers
of men spend their lives —and lose
them, too —in collecting the right kind
of birds for fly feathers.
There is no limit to the enthusiasm
of an artistic fly tier, who will use
hair from his own eyelashes to finish
off an extra special fly. Baby's hair is
a much-sought-after material, if of the
right shade —golden yellow—for all the
lighter salmon flies, and one curl will
make a dozen first-class flies. There
are many salmon and trout fishers who
pay S3OOO a year for their flies alone.
—Cincinnati Enquirer.
Never Sefe to I'ropo.e .llHrrlage.
A servant who. In a moment of
weariness with domestic duties, said:
"Rather than go on like this, month
after month forever, I'll ask tho first
man who passes if he wants a wife!"
Her fellow servant challenged her to
put the question to a man just then
passing by. The young woman was
not prepared to be taken at her word
so suddenly, but, in despiration, be
thought herself of away of escape.
She was Welsh, and hurriedly ex
claimed as the unknown was passing,
"A oes eisiau gwraig arnoch chwi?"
(Do you want a wife?) "Oes" (yea)
very unexpectedly replied the young
man, who, also, mirabile dlctu,.hailed
from the Principality, and with Celtic
sprightliness followed into the hall the
blushing girl, who had fled upon hear
ing the familiar word. The maid, a
farmer's daughter, was buxom and
neat; the swain was an industrious
and amibtious young dealer, with
promising prospects, and soon "mer
rily rang the wedding bells." —London
Free Lance.
Worried Him.
"My wife," said the thoughtful man,
"always kisses me very affectionately
when I am going away for a trip."
"That ought to please you."
"Well, I don't know about that. I
notice she never kisses me so affec
tionately when I come back." —Chi
cago Post.
/ypfefljAL
To Feed HOBS Clover Hay.
A Massachusetts reader wants to
know how to feed hogs on clover hay
as the bulk of the food and at the
same time keep them in growing con
dition?
Probably the best plan would be to
cut the hay and feed it as a slop in
conjunction with ground grain. The
hay should be steamed, but if you
have not the facilities to do this pour
boiling hot water on it and after stir
ring it add the grain and then stir it
again thoroughly.
Corn, oats and clover hay in equal
parts ought to make a good ration for
the average hog, and they should be
fed three times a day as much as they
will eat up clean. —New York Weekly
Witness.
Hen* Better Than Cows.
It is usually said that it requires
four acres of ground to accomodate
one cow, and the average yearly profit
about S2O, to say nothing of the long
hours and hard work in milking and
caring for the cow. This makes a
profit of $5 an acre; a poor showing,
we think, when compared with the
faithful old hen. An acre of ground
will furnish the food for 50 hens, the
profits from which will far exceed that
of the cow. The secret of success
with poultry lies in faithful application
of common sense methods, and no man
need say he cannot make poultry pay.
Every day we see examples of what
can be done; and though we also see
failures, a cause can always be found.
Home and Farm.
Com|>nrl*on of Hay and Pasture.
Does it pay to use a pasture; that
Is, will a larger profit be derived from
cows that are given exclusively the
use of a pasture, or will the same land
pay more if useu for producing hay?
The Michigan Experiment station
found, after repeated tests, that about
four times as much food could be ob
tained from a meadow by allowing it
to produce hay than by pasturing it,
which means that four cows can be
kept on the land where only one can
be kept by pasturing it. One of the
drawbacks against using the land for
hay, however, is that considerable la
bor is required in mowing, curing and
storing the hay, while the cows on the
pasture perform the labor. Also that
cows given green food as pasturage
produce more milk in the summer sea
son than if kept on hay, and must be
given green food in some manner to
be profitable.
Sheltering Tool*.
The farmer cannot afford to have
good tools and machinery on his farm,
unless he can afford to have buildings
to protect them from the weather, and
he cannot spend an hour or a day
more profitably than in cleaning them
up, overhauling them and making re
pairs on them before they are likely
to be wanted again. The plows, har
rows and more expensive machinery
left out of doors this winter will de
teriorate in value more than one-fifth.
The loss would more than pay the In
terest on the eorst of a good building
to shelter them in, and in many cases
exceed the taxes on the farm. If they
were not properly cared for when last
used, take one of these fine days and
gather them up, clean them, oil all the
Iron work and paint ail the wood work.
Never mind getting a painter to do
the job. Buy a can of ready mixed
paint and a cheap brush. Use any
color that you like, but use it freely,
not as an ornament, but as a preserva
tive of the wood as the oil is of the
iron. We heard of two farmers who
owned a harrow in partnership, and
thought it should be painted, but
could not agree on the color. Finally
they compromised, and one painted
Ills half black, while the other used
yellow ochre. We never learned which
half wore out first. While overhaul
ing, see that all bolts and nuts are in
place and broken parts mended. —The
Cultivator.
Winter Keep of Citl>l>;tge.
Cabbage may lie kept by any mode
which nearly excludes the frost, pre
serves a cool temperature, and a slight
degree of moisture. A pile resting on
the earth would keep better than if
resting on a floor, and would require
less protection. It would be likely
thus to receive a proper degree of
moisture. A common way to keep
cabbage by the quantity is to leave
them out in the ground until near
the end of November, and then pull
and place them inverted on smooth
ground, packed closely together in
beds five or six feet wide, with six
feet spaces between. They may be
thus left till the ground is about to
freeze, when the earth between the
rows, is dug and placed as covering
on the inverted heads, about six inches
thick, the tips of the roots projecting
above. With less labor, the spaces
may be plowed and harrowed until
the earth is fine and mellow before
It is placed on the cabbage, tne plow
throwing the earth nearest to them
upon the heads. With this treatment,
the work must be done earlier than
by hand in order to have the soil
in right condition and it is always
best to cover them up as late as
practicable. It is important that the
ground has very thorough drainage.
A great many regard it as of great
importance to plow the earth many
times, making it mellow two feet
deep in forming a trench or hollow
to place them in; then the mellow
earth is thrown against the heads with
the plow. Tile frost cannot penetrate
the mellow earth. If the work is done
before very cold weather sets in
the central part of the row may be
left nearly uncovered, and when freez
ing commences, the whole covered
with the mellow soil. For early win
ter use. cabbage may be stored In
cold cellars packed in large boxes, of
damp moss; or they may be set in
their natural position in low boxes
filled with earth, damp moss, damp
suwdust, or placed in heaps out of
doors, and covered with a foot of
chaff, or with straw.—Charles Ashley
in The Epitomist.
I)etrm?tion of Western ICunges.
Being born and raised in the heart
of the range west of the Rocky moun
tains, and having observed from year
to year the destruction of the feed
upon these ranges by the immense
herds of cattle, sheep and horses, I am
constrained to write a word regarding
this destruction. Twenty-five years
ago the valleys and mountains of
Idaho, Nevada and Utah were waving
with rich grasses, enough being pro
duced every year to feed more head of
cattle than has ever been grazed on
it in any five years, providing it had
been fed as stock is led on any good
farm. We cannot term it destruction
where grass is consumed by the stock
turned into beef, mutton or horseflesh,
but when the grass is eaten and the
roots trodden out and the ground left
barren it is destruction. I have ob
served that cattle will graze on a
range from year to year and there will
be little damage done to the roots of
the grass, but with horses and sheep
it is not the case. Horses eat the
grass to the very roots, exposing them
to the hot sun, and the roots die.
Sheep do not eat grass when they
can get weeds that they like, but woe
to the range that they traverse. As
I write I look upon Mount-Cuddy and
see great clcuds of dust rising. If
you could be transported to the scene
on the mountain side you would see
some 2000 sheep in a drove traveling
along the mountain in the cool of the
morning eating their breakfast. They
nip a little on this bush and a little
on that one, while under their feet is
being trodden the rich grasses, which
they seldom touch. This brand of
sheep will tramp and uproot the grass
until It becomes too hot to travel, then
they will take refuge beneath the
brush and trees until evening, when
they will again begin their march of
destruction, treading out thousands of
acres of grass during one summer.
This has gone on from year to year,
until now the mountains and valleys
of the far west lie brown and barren
in the scorching sun. Not even a
sheep can exist in many of these once
beautiful grassy plains.—F. L. Feath
erston, in Practical Farmer.
Apple* on tile Tree.
The risk which speculators and
dealers are willing to take in buying
apples on the trees and attending to
the harvesting and selling themselves
not infrequently proves a great boon
to the grower. In large apple-growing
regions it is rapidly becoming the cus
tom for farmers to sell their apples in
this way, and if one studies the ques
tion of values, and knows how to cal
culate the worth of his fruit on the
trees, it is a good thing to dispose of
the apples in this way. The purchas
ing companies are generally able to
make better arrangements for trans
portation with the railroad companies
than the individual farmer, and they
also employ a small army of expert
pickers and packers who accompany
them from one orchard to another.
They can consequently pick and pack
apples at less expense than the farm
er who must depend upon whatever
help he can secure in the harvest sea
son. More than this, the speculators
who buy the apples on the trees know
better how to distribute the products.
The apples are carefully sorted by
them In different grades. It might
prove a useful lesson to any grower
to study their methods. First, there
come the choice apples for export or
the fancy city trade. These are select
ed with the greatest care and packed
carefully, often being wrapped in in
dividual tissue paper. For a barrel of
such apples a packer tokl me he ex
pected to receive $3 and sls In ordinary
times. Very lew farmers could secure
•such prices. The demand is, of course,
limited, and the purchasers are hard
to find by the average shipper. It is
the experience of the men who make
a business of handling the apple crop
that helps them to secure these ex
traordinary prices.
The next grade of fruit is ordinary
prime, which usually represents the
grade called fancy in the ordinary
market. Those apples are also care
fully picked and packed, but not
wrapped in paper. They command all
the way from $2 to 14 per barrel. Then
below them are the good and choice
fruits, which sell for about $2 a barrel.
In markets when apples are scarce,
these speculators ship another grade,
which pa'sses as common to ordinary,
and they may sell from $1.50 to $2.50
per barrel, according to market condi
tions. Anything below these are
packed up any way and shipped to
some factory, where the apples are
dried, and the poor sorts made into
jelly. Sometimes the large apple spec
ulators have their own canning, dry
ing and jelly factories, which they
keep running with the fruits they can
not dispose of satisfactorily in the
market. In this way there is no
waste. Every apple is quickly sent to
market or the factory when the farm
er would lose.
They can and often do pay more for
the fruit on the trees than the grower
could get for It if he picked, packed
and 3liippod it himself; but as said in
the beginning, one must know the val
ue of his apples on the trees. The
apple speculators are not offering
more money for the fruit than they
are worth: it is for the grower to find
this out. —S. W. Chambers, in Ameri
can Cultivator.
Triangles on the HeU..
How many women you meet wear
triangles on their heads? These are
examples of the marquise chapeau,
a type of headdress distinctly becom
ing to "la belle Americaine."
The marquise has various modifica
tions, triangular brim and round flat
crown, and triangular crowns with
soft draped brims are both seen. The
general line of the triangle is observed
and the rest conforms to the milliner's
desire to set off her customer's good
looks.
A Smart Black Gown.
A notion that bears the impress of
elegant motif is a soft black gown of
cashmere l'inde, eolienne crape or
muslin cloth trimmed with coarse
ocher colored lace, the lace carried
in long lines from *Uiroat to feet anl
down the back of sleeves, slightly
puffed at the wris\. Behind the lace
is placed a lining of white taffeta. The
best beloved lace in this deep tint is
composed of a sort of drawn thread
embroidery. There is a perfect rage
for this on the continent, where entire
gowns are created of it mounted over
white taffeta slips. What supreme
heights of daintiness cannot the
needs attain nowadays! Truly it is a
craft of most cunning capa.bilities, one
that enables us to individualize, spe
cialize and generally excel.
Common Sens© Blouse*.
A great many blouses are made in
old-fashioned so-called "English" em
broidery, the very open patterns for
choice, mounted over pale colered
taffeta. The sleeves are usually of
plain lawn, very finely tucked and of
the bishop tendency, gathered into a
band of the embroidery. A sensible
plan, and the one much adopted by
ladies who play golf or tennis, is to
have a detachable collar hand of the
embroidery; it is so very difficult to
procure a perfect fitting collar at
tached to the bodice. Black velvet
ribbon run into embroidery is very
pretty for collars and wristbands. The
embroidery should be about two inch
es wide, or two rows may be joined
together. These washing blouses are
charming in conjunction with a blue
serge costume worn with a white
Btraw Breton hat turned up all around
and trimmed with soft blue and white
satin and white wings resting under
the brim against the hair.
More Women doing to College.
The increasing number of women
who take a college course is seen
in the fact that within a year the Na
tional Association of College Alumnae
has added 1400 members to its roll,
bringing its total membership up to
4000. Twenty-two colleges are repre
sented in the association.
There is no similar national organi.
zation of college men, hut the women
have found theirs a most useful body.
One of the ways In which it has been
most useful is in opening several for
eign universities to American women
by first creating and then maintaining
foreign fellowships.
One of the association's standing
committees keeps a close watch on ed
ucational legislation. Another, of
which the president of Bryn Mawr is
the chairman, has just presented to
the annual meeting at Buffalo the re
sults of a study of 600U cases of col
legiate and non-collegiate women, de
signed to show the beneficial effects of
health.
The Requirement* of Health.
The requirements of health can be
counted on one hand. They are:
Good air, good food, suitable clothing,
cleanliness ,and exercise and rest. The
first two requirements affect the blood,
and as the blood circulates all over
the body, including the brain, every
part is affected. Fresh air affects the
purity of the blood. The freshest air
Is out of doors, anil It is the duty of
every one who wishes to be in good
health to spend a certain amount of
time in the open air. Good food is not
necessarily expensive food. Exercise
and rest should alternate and balance
each other. It is quite possible to take
too much exercise, and this side of the
question must be guarded against as
well as the other. Women, as a rule,
do not rest sufficiently. Every woman
should try during the day to get a
few minutes' rest, even if it interferes
with her regular work. It is impossi
ble for her to attend to the health and
welfare of her family if her own health
suffers from overwork and lack of
rest. —American Queen.
Orange tOniisoin* in Iliufnvor.
Orange blossoms would appear to
be declining in favor with English
brides. Formerly the flower was
deemed an essential part of the bridal
toilet, and none but widows went to
the altar without wearing them. Even
when a bride was married in her trav.
eilng costume she pinned a sprig of
orange blossom in the bodice of her
gown.
Judging by the fashionable wed
dings of the past few months, how
ever, a ne. order of things has been
introduced. One distinguished brido
went to the altar with a wreath of
myrtle, another with white clematis,
and yet another with lily of the valley.
The reason given for putting aside
orange blossoms is that as natural
flowers were usually worn, the heavy
perfume caused faintnoss to the la
dies. As the artificial flowers so near
ly resemble the genuine article, this
can scarcely be said to account for the
"slump" in the nuptial blossom. Love
of change and a commendable wish
to bring a touch tf originality into
wedding atire, which is apt to become
stereotyped, is probably at the root
of the new fashion.
Mothers Who " Sliow Off" Children.
Some veijy well-meaning mothers
are so oblivious of the sensitiveness of
a child that they speak of his faults
in his presence, and ask advice about
the best way to control him. in the
i same cool manner that they allude
to his attacks of croup and discuss
remedies. But any one who lias the
insight to read what is passing in the
mind of a little one thus obliged to
sit still under torment would be both
pitiful and indignant at the situation.
Of all things let us avoid exploiting
our children either in the way of
exhibiting their perfections or their
weaknesses. A certain loyalty is due
the child from the parent. If the lit
tle one shows himself just as he is to
the close confident of all his moods
it is a betrayal of his trust for the
mother to repeat his confessions or
describe to others what she has
learned about him. Ah, that all moth
ers would cultivate in themselves the
steady self-poise and firm will which
would enable them to pursue the even
tenor of their way with their families
heedless of what other people say or
want! A mother needs some of na
ture's grand indifference. Nothing
does it matter to nature that people
slander and defame her, murmur about
her changeableness and decry her
ways. They may find fault or praise,
that which is right is done, and the
day comes when the critic's cry is
hushed. —Florence Hull Winterburn,
in the Woman's Home Companion.
How Kosa Honlieur Died.
In Harper's Jules Claretie relates
a pathetic incident attendant on the
death of Rosa Bonheur, whose friend
and critic he had been for many years:
"It was while visiting Paris during
a rainy spell, and after having rashly
taken an open carriage from her house
to the station, that the artist caught
cold." says 11. Claretie, "and on ar
riving at By, went to bed, never to rise
up again. One might well
have said that Rosa Bonheur
was made for the country,
for the peasantry, and for the animals,
and that she should never have left
them for even a day. At all events,
she came back to die amongst them,
and sweetly, without complaint, re
signed and resolute, just as she had
lived through so many years of hard
work. It was my mournful consolation
to give my beloved friend her last
pleasure. I had written in the Journal
apropos of the medal of honor which
the Salon jury wished to give her,
only they knew she would have re
fused it. Into this article I put all my
admiration for the artist, all my re
spect for the woman. I was ignorant
of the fact that, having been impru
dent enough to brave the cold at Parts,
Rosa Bonheur had returned to By
sick. What say I? Sick! Ah! she was
lost, the victim of pulmonary conges
tion.
"She could no longer speak when
the paper was brought to her. But
the faithful servant, perceiving the
name of Mademoiselle Rosa on the
page, sat down by her pillow and read
the article in a loud voice. The dying
woman shook her head, and her lips
parted in a last wan smile, which
seemed to express her thanks. This
was in the morning. Gradually her
vision grew clouded. That evening
she was dead.
"And now I dedicate, as a new
crown or chaplet for the monument
erected in honor of Rosa Bonheur
these few pages of souvenirs—sou
venirs of the affection with which she
honored me, and of conversations far
too short, alas! with one of the most
noble and elevated of spirits, one of
the artists most unrivalled, and cer
tain to remain illustrious in the future,
whom it has been my privilege to
know, to admire, and to love."
fFo
The newest veils are of mousseline
de soie hemstitched, with large dots
in white.
A handsome clasp for a fur or other
variety of mantle is of pink enamel,
ornamented with a spread eagle in
gold.
In the new fabrics for evening wear
a white satin of soft lustre, brocaded
with violets in natural shades, is es
pecially pretty.
Persian band trimming is still very
popular. Stitched bands of silk or
cloth are also much used in the em
bellishment of winter costumes.
The modish weaves for evening
wear are delicately fuzzy, although
making a bold showing of smoothness.
Below the surface they look glossy.
For house wear suede boots have
taken precedence of patent leather
this seasan. Satin shoes and slippers
are worn for evening and match the
gown.
Jet is to lie seen more and more in
hatpins, combs for the hair, necklaces
with pendants, and in dog collars with
sonic special design set into the front
and strings of jet carried around the
re3t of the collar.
Occasionally the coats for women
are obe seen wit'll belts, ..lit almost
without exception they are more
stylish and attractive without them.
The belt makes a break in the lines of
velvet or fur that is not desirable.
Knots for the hair, which are sold
ready made, are to be found of nar
row black velvet ribbon combined
with either narrow flower ribbon, gold
or silver ribbon. The result is a
simple little knot, but very pretty.