CREATINC COSTUMES, Tlie Vast Army In Prance Devoted to the Cause of Fashion. It Is a matter of great interest to the visitor in Paris to observe the extent to which the whole city is given over to the service of fashion. Costumers and their assistants abound on every [ band. It is estimated that somo fifty thousand of these, including women and young girls, are at work in the city. The name of the Rue de la Fnlx, I where the most fashionable shops are situated, has eomo to stand for tho en tire dressmaking quarter, although many equally attractive cstablish tnents are to bo found on the Avenue ■de l'Opcra, tho Ruo Royale and Boule vard Haussmann. A glance at the books of some of these houses proves that Paris is all that she claims to be as capital of the world of dress. Tho leading queens and princesses of Europe order their choicest gowns here. Even tho favorite® of the Sul tan and the women of the Mikado's Court ore said to wear on occasion dresses created by the artists of the great Paris houses, and belles of South America are their most extravagant clients. English and American women are naturally among the most fre quent shoppers seen in Paris from abroad. To adapt themselves to this foreign patronage the mannequins or models, who stand to try on and show off the superb costumes, are chosen to repre sent the average style and build of women of different nationalities, Ger man, Russian, American or Spanish. These girls receive about $350 a year. Sometimes the dress is created in a modest atelier, or shop, or again In an apartment which has not the least re semblance to a business establishment. Places like Paquln's are almost thea trical with their spacious rooms and well-dressed attendants. Thoso sales women who achieve success In at tracting and retaining customers often receive, It is reported, from S3OOO to S4OOO yearly. The proflts of a popular establishment are large, but the per sonnel of the assistants in such a place Is of the utmost importance, tact, ex perience and good taste being abso lutely essential. The dressmakers of Paris take the greatest pains to keep themselves informed ns to the fluctua tions in fortune of their clients, so many of whom are persons well known to tho public, and the credit of aristocratic or theatrical patrons Is always carefully noted. In fact, a lit tle secret police force, It is rumored, has these matters constantly In charge. Many persons who cannot personally visit Paris contrive to trade there by means of samples sent through the mails. It is to this custom, as tho story goes, that the Introduction of the well known mlrrolr velvet Is due. A sample of ordinary velvet sent by mail was crushed in the stamping in such away as to assume an unusual brilliancy. The dealer receiving it, studied to gain tho same effect In a new velvet, and produced the mlrrolr variety, which proved an Immediate ■success. If Paris Is the centre of fashion, nearly all industrial France assists In the production of nrtieles of dress. Whole towns depend for their pros perity on tho making of tho materials used by Parisian costumers, such as Lyons, Amiens, Roubaix and others. Taking the country in all, probably no less than 1,400,000 masters and work people are employed in this manner, and since caprice Is ever the chief element of fashion, these Industries are being subjected continually to •change.—New York Tribune. I.'Art II oilman. Since the Exposition In Tarls there have been many allusions in the dally press to "L'Art Nouveau," or the new art, and tho striking exhibit made by Its expounders; but It Is doubtful If one In ten of the roporters, who helped to spread Its fame, understood In what i. consisted or wherein It differed from art. In studying an exhibit of I'art nouveau, whether applied to furniture, fabrics, or objects of house hold decoration, two elements are at once discerned—novelty and unrest; if and two prominent faults are noted— A lact of proportion or scale, and a cer tain incongruity both In tho selection of the various parts whose union pro duces the total effect, and In a confu sion of treatment, that which Is prop er to ona material being applied to another without proper alteration. This new art declares itself based upon principles of natural growth and col oring, but these laws are continually violated by the curves introduced into nearly every design. Indeed, the curves most commonly met do not at all suggest a vigorous plant bursting into life in the spring, but rather sap less and withered forms of dead vege tation. L'art nouveau has not become a fad in this country, even with the smart set that is always seeking novelty. The comparatively few examples of it that appeared In the fashionable decora tors' shops have had slow sales. Nor have the hangings or ceilings and mu ral decorations been received with any .A greater favor. This seems rather ' strange when we remember the attrac tion that the novel and the bizarre lias for many persons.—The Modern Prls- Cilia. Restrictions of French Girl Lite, "The programme of what a French girl may or may not do Is drawn up very precisely," declares Tli. Ilentzou (Madame Blanc), in the Ladles' Homo Journal. "Unless she is poor and has to earn her own living she never gees out alone. The company of a friend of her own age would not he sufficient to chaperon her. It is an established rule that novel-reading is a rare ex ception. She is entirely subject to her parents' will in the matter of reading. And If she asks to see anything at the theatre except a classical master piece, or an opera, they will tell her that such a thing is not considered proper, feeling sure of her silont sub mission. After she is fifteen years old she Is generally allowed to bo In the drawing room on her mother's recep tion days, but must keep to tho modest and secondary place assigned to her: pouring the tea and presenting It courtesylng to her elders, answering when spoken to—in short undergoing her apprenticeship. She has but few jewels, and under no pretext any dia monds, Custom docs not permit her to wear costly things; nor does it give her the right in general, to have a money allowance worth speaking of for personal use. She receives a trilling sura for charity, her books and gloves. A young girl never takes the lead in conversation, but always al lows the married lady the precedence, and sho finds it quite natural to occu py tho background." Women and Birds, Mr. G. O. Shields, president of the League of American Sportsmen, thinks that women are endowed with lots of good sense. In a lecture before a prom inent woman's club in tho West, he i said: [ "There Is abundant reason to con gratulate the women of this country on their good sense. When their at tention was called to the needless and heartless destruction of bird life which was being perpetrated in order to gratify their lovo of beautiful raiment, thousands of them stopped wearing birds on their hats. It is safe to say that five per cent, of the twenty thousand women who belong to the Audubon societies to-day were form erly patrons of the bird millinery traf fic. They had uot before stopped to think of the wrong that was being done as a result of their patronage, but when their attention was called to it they were as ready to discard the sin ful ornaments as they always are to join In any good movement." The Daby Princess of Italy, It Is said that the baby princess of Italy, Lolanda Margherlta, is a re markably healthy child, with dark eyes, neither black nor blue, a good appetite and a strong pair of lungs. Sho Is the second princess born In the llouso of Savoy since the birth of her grandmother, yueen Margheritu, fifty years ago, and no other bnby has ever had the honor of coming into the world in the old Quirlnal Palace, as this was, until 1870, the home of the Popes. Mrs. Dickens, the English woman chosen as her attendant, lias the direction of almost every detail In the care of tho royal baby, except her clothing. This consists of long linen bands, in the traditional fashion of Italy, which confine tho legs to a cer tain extent, but leave the arms free. NEWEST Fancy Jewelry of fruits and flowers is the fancy of the hour, the floral brooches matching the gown In color. Pale gray lace in an old fashioned netted design is heing employed again for trimming batistes, muslins and vailes. Some of the smartest women are wearing princess gowns, though they are not frequently seen. On tho light woman, properly made, they are charming. Long, wrinkled gloves are good with sleeves which reach a little below tho elbow, and women who have been wearing the long sleeves and under sleeves are delighted at the change. A pink albatross gown has incrusta tion of cream all over lace set into it In medallion form, several rows of them around the skirt and more in tho waist and in the top of each sleeve. An effective white chiffon gown has the skirt trimmed with hands of cream guipure, with a bodice of the lace, tho corselet belt of rose silk, and the guipure collar edged with lines of the same silk. A little girl's frock of thin pink ma terial which falls from a cream lace yoke, edged with a frill of the lace, Is accordion pleated and held in slightly around the waist with a twisted black velvet ribbon. Golf or outing skirts come In pretty reds and greens. Either a pattern In white hairline squares of tho white with white dots at the corners. Thoy are made in the regulation fashion, with placket-hole tabs at tbo sides. There seems to bo no falling off In the popularity of laee stitches which are used in every possible manner with dainty effects. One great tblug in their favor Is thnt thoy furnish a means of making pretty long Hues in skirts and bodices. Pearl pins are useful and economical for the home milliner. A whole hat can he trimmed with white mull, or with any kind of light material, for that matter, with a card of pins. They can be put In in plain sight and form part oi the trimming of tho hat. ABOUT THE CUCUMBER HARDEST WORKED OF VEGETABLES AND SOMETIMES THE BEST. No ro to Dyspeptics When nightly Used anil Lots of TVayß Using It lt's An cient and Aristocratic—Mnkes a Drink r in Egypt—Odd Ways of Serving. The cucumber is the hardest-worked member of the vegetable kingdom. At least It is if we may Judge by tlia variety of its uses. From America to Asia Minor-It appears as an article of food on dinner tables and supper tables, all over the civilized world. But that does not exhaust its possibili ties by any means. In Egypt it is made to yield a pleasant cooling drink by ingenious treatment A hole is cut In the cucumber, the pulp is broken nnd stirred with a stick, and the hole closod with wax. The cucumber, still fastened to its stem, is lowered into a pit After a few days the juice fer ments, nnd the Egyptian drawing it off has a liquor exactly suited to his taste. When my lady wishes to allay sun burn or to soften and whiten her skin, on general principles she calls for cu cumber soap or cucumber cream. The very name makes her think that the preparation must be harmless as well as efflcaclous, and the Beau Brum mels of to-day use cucumber pomade with the same sense of security. Then pickles—what Is more univer sally popular than the pickle, and what new-fangled Invention can bear comparison with the old-fashioned time-honored cucumber pickle! From the days of kilts and pinafores when boys and girls ate a huge penny pickle with surreptitious bites, to the days of formal dinners, when baby cucum bers appear as gherkins, what relish sharpens hunger like n pickle? Yet the cucumber In its natural state is at once the temptation and the menace of the eating world. Plump, green and inviting as it is, doctors who have delicate digestions in charge taboo it. The average man eats it cheerfully, but with a sneaking fear of consequences. Mental science should turn its attention to cucumbers for a while. If it should convince the universal mind that cucumbers were in reality digestible and could issue a gunranteo with every cucumber sold, the digestive woe of humanity would be wonderfully lightened. In the meantime household scien tists have advanced to the rescue. Nothing is beyond them. They have deduced the most Illogical of foods to their principles. They have discov ered the innermost sources of the squash and the potato and all their kith and kin. With persistent dili gence they have tabulated foods ac cording to their nutritive value, and by following these tables the poorest woman in the slums can learn how to keep homo happy, nud her husband well fed on ten cents a day. Now cucumbers do not stand high In their list. They are among the or naments. They represent the acces sories, the poetry of diet as it were. But, however, these modern scientists have lessened the ancient prestige of the cucumber they show how it can be made digestible at least. Buy a medium-sized cucumber to serve raw Is the tlrst of tbo modern rules for tbo hygienic housekeeper. It should be a good green and firm to the touch. Remove thinly skins from both ends and cut otl a thick paring. This is important because the cucum ber contains a bitter principle, and much of it lies near the skin and the stem end. Not a trace of green should be seen when the paring is finished. The cucumber should then be cut into slices, wafer thin, and put Into salt and water. Let not the unwary cook bo led to think that this will make them brittle and crisp, however. They will be as flabby as celery a week old —but digestible. Since most people prefer their cu cumbers crisp or not at all, this method finds little favor except among inva lids and incurables. But cold water without the salt answers almost the same purpose, and tbo cucumbers come out after their soaking as fresh and tender as if they had just been picked from the vines. Drained and covered with crushed ice and served they make a dish fit for a king. Kings, Indeed, have appreciated the value of the cucumber from time Immemorial. For the cucumber, as far as lineage goes, is an aristocrat among the vege tables; not a mere interloper a few paltry centuries old, like the potato. Even In Bible times it was eaten and enjoyed under the name of mandrake. X'liny sets the seal of royal approval on it by telling that the Emperor Ti berius bad cucumbers served at bis table every day. How many other Emperors may have laid up for them selves indigestion by Indulging in the juicy cucumber, is an unrecorded list. But in a digestive war of the vegeta bles cucumbers could undoubtedly carry off the honors for the most mis chief done to mankind. How Tiberius liked his cucumbers, Pliny does not say. But for ordinary every-day use modern taste prefers them raw. For state occasions, or when a few extra frills are desirable, cucumbers may be served in more un usual ways. Old ones, too large and tough to be good raw, are delicious boiled. For three or four persons two large cucumbers are enough. Faro them, cut into lengths of three or four inches, half them and remove seeds. Put Into boiling water, salted; leave them until they are tender; serve in a hot vegetable dish and if desired put melted butter over them. After boil ing tlicy may be mashed and seasoned with butter, salt and pepper if desired. Away of preparing boiled cucum bers, which can be made to tempt the appetite of the chronic dyspeptic with Impunity, is to pare taem as before a. J cut them into small regular pieces, put them In 11 baking pan, cover wltS boiling itatci- and cool: gently for twenty minutes. Tliey can be taken out with a strainer, arranged on slices of toast and served with a cream sauce. Cucumber soup, with Its delicate flavor, is an excellent introduction for a hearty meal. Cucumbers stirred with onions are a variation prized by those who like ouions. A particularly artistic way of preparing cucumbers for a luncheon or for a cool supper on a hot night is to pnre tliom as usual. Then, instead of slicing them, pare them round and round to the soft in side, which must not be used. The cucumber ribbons heaped into a dish and served with French dressing are as pretty to look at as they are good to eat. The recipes for encumbers in salad are as numerous as blackberries in August. There is cucumber salad plain, cucumber salad with tiny young onions sliced with it, cucumbers with lettuce, cucumbers with lettuce and tomatoes, cucumbers with just toma toes and cucumbers in so many other salad combinations that they are harder to compute than an example in permutations and combinations. French dressing or mayonnaise dress ing is equally good, according to the taste of the Individual. Cucumbers cut into cubes half an inch square, with sliced tomatoes on lettuce leaves covered Willi mayonnaise dressing are extremely good to eat, and make a color combination which any well regulated painter could not help ad miring. Cucumbers, like apples, bananas nnd egg plant, are sometimes fried; for this they should be cut lengthwise into slices, one-third of an inch thick, dried between towels nnd sprinkled with salt and pepper. Then tliey should be dipped into crumbs, into egg. Into crumbs again, fried in deep fat and drained. Stuffed cucumbers nro quite the most elaborate dish that can lie made of tills vegetable. The cucumbers nro cut in half crosswise and the seeds re moved. The halves are then soaked in cold water for half an hour nnd filled with forcemeat. Next .they nro placed upright on a trivet In a sauce pan. half surrounded with white stock and cooked for forty minutes. Tliey are served ou toast with Bechamel sauce. In the summer months the wise housekeeper seeks for the things that will please the eye as well as the pal ate. In tills search the cucumber meets a definite need. When the mer cury is jumping tip toward ninety the woman who knows what she is about orders her table accordingly. She takes off the thick pad and warm tablecloth, and serves her luncheon on the shining bare table, set witli littlo doilies. She makes a Rembrandt com bination Tilth her iced tea and slices of lemon; her hot dishes are cro quettes on a mat of tender green peas and creamed potato done to a turn. A side dish of Neufchntol cheese in a little cake is acceptable on a hot dny, nnd cucumbers in a green dish com plete a most delicious bill of fare. A titling dessert for this color luncheon Is sliced oranges witli yellow spongo cake. The cucumber on occnsion can In useful ns well as ornamental. The farmer finds it profitable to raise. It needs heat, light and rich soil, hut un : dor those conditions responds prompt ly with plenty of fruit. More than seventy varieties of cucumber are raised In the United States alone, and England, India, Egypt nnd half a dozen other countries beslues the com mon variety have each their own spe cial modification of the vegetable. But it is the manufacturer of pickles who really coins money out of the cu cumber. Millions of cucumbers nro bottled and sold every year, and while the big pickles, the middling-sized pickles and the little pickles slide down the epicure's throat, the pennies slip into the manufacturer's pocket, and he is quite ready to adopt Izaak Walton's estimate of tlio strawberry, and say of the cucumber, "God might have made n better vegetable, hut lie didn't."—New York Sun. It Wixh I'Jiißtcr. "Sam" Elder told the doctors soma pretty good stories the other afternoon at the Massachusetts Medical Socioty dinner, about their own profession. From the way his hearers laughed I should think the yarns were about all new. One was about an old prac titioner, who, because of advancing years, had relinquished all of his out of-town practice to his young nssist unt. One night the older physician was called on by two men in a buggy, one of whom wanted the doctor to come to his house, eight miles away, aud attend his wife, who was very ill. "She will have no one but you, doctor," said the man. "Well, I'll go for $lO. and not a cent less," said the doctor. A whispered consultation went on in the carriage, nnd finally the physician heard a voice say: "Better pay the ten. It's a good deal cheaper than burying her." And the doctor got his money.—-Bos ton Journal. Warning- to Swlmniois. A correspondent writes to the New York Sun; "Now that the swimming season is here again, you ought to re peat the warning which was published several years ago that apoplexy, not cramps, is what causes the death of so many strong swimmers who sud denly become helpless when bathing. Wetting the head before the feet is said to prevent the trouble." Few ladles consider that they carry some lorty or fifty miles of hair cn their head; the fair haired may oven have to dress seventy miles ol' threads of gold every morning. 1 AGRICULTURAL j ScourH in Young Pigs. "When young pigs liave scours it Is an indication that they are being al lowed some kind of food that Is inju rious. The remedy is to change the food, allowing only warm milk thick ened with equal parts of bran and cornmeal. Influencing the Color of llntter. The color of butter Is largely influ enced by the food. Cutter Is some times white and at certain seasons it may be a golden yellow. The coloring of butter by artificial means, such as the use of annatto, will never be neces sary where carrots are grown and fed regularly. Cows that receive a variety of food at all seasons of the year will usually produce yellow butter. A Feeding Pen Gate. When there are any great number of pigs fed in the same pen it is invaria bly the rule that the larger pigs get the greater share of the feed, and in - w \ g*/ ■ferlr# vm'lffl \ I |\m A GATE FOB FEEDING PEN. consequence they grow better and the smaller, less active pigs get less feed and are Jostled about and fall farther and farther behind. By using a gate, made as portrayed, in the feeding pen, the largo, strong pigs will be hin dered in no way from getting their share, and the smaller ones will bo given an equal chance, or better. The gate (c) is fastened to the lifting lever (b), which is held at the desired height, admitting the desired sized pig by a pin (a), through the posts and through the lever. The lower hole admits the smaller pigs, but the larger sized can not squeeze under. When the little pigs have satisfied themselves, lift the gate another hole nnd admit the next grade, and so on. In this way the smaller pigs will not become stunted by being crowded away from the feed ing trough or floor.—J. L. Irwin, in Farm and Ilome. The Art of Plowing. Owing to creeks and other causes there are many irregular shaped fields which are oftentimes plowed by going around until finished in the centre. This centre is often a triangle. I never saw a plowman but what went around this triangle until it was at last plowed out. To finish this way leaves a large, open furrow, nnd neces sitates turning square around at the point. Often the horses get their feet out of the futTow and make trouble. , mum is t= i 1 la KIT aoUTH PLOWING TKIANGULAE FIELDS. But the worst feature of it is the tramping given the plowed ground, es pecially if in the spring. Few, unless they have tried it, real ize the injury done by tramping plowed ground that is a little wet, which it often is in spring. The sketch shows how to plow out the land with hut little tramping, and by malt ing half turns instead of whole ones at what would be the point if plowed out until done. By plowing as per shape of diagram, five extra rounds will bring sides to a point It is ten feet or ten furrows wider at one end than at the other. You are, say, at the north with a left hand plow. Drive sonth to dotted line. Throw out, turn gee and follow the dotted line. Then turn gee and plow hack, then east, then south, and so on. By throwing out and turning and driving across on dotted lines you are turning ou the unplowcd grouud. When you have plowed off the live furrows on each side, your land is the same width at each end and in good sljape to finish. —Lucious Stockwell, in Farm und Home. Cheese Making on the Farm. The articles needed for making dairy cheese are from six to twelve cows and tub or vat that will hold two miikings. If of wood the night's milk would he warmed in the morning to the proper temperature of eight four degrees. Or one may have a Jacketed or double tin tub. Then all the milk can he warmed by pouring hot water in the jacket and drawing it off, when the milk is sufficiently warm. A whey tub and a pair of cheese tongs to lay across the tub nre also needed. Next comes the cheese knife (which may be a wooden one) to cut the curd at the proper time so as to start the whey, then the cheese bas ket, which any tinman can make and cut inch holes all over the bottom and sides of the basket. A thin strainer cloth must be placed inside the basket to receive the curd, which is carefully dipped into It at Intervals after stand ing a proper time for the whey to he- | giu to separate from the curd. For a dipper a piece tin like a milk skimmer Is nsed. It mnst be there so as not to break the curd. A cheese hoop, some cheese boards and a cheese press complete this primitive equip ment. The sizes of dairy cheese that sell best are those that weigh from fifteen to twenty-five pounds each. If there are no hoops or press at hand doubtless any dairy supply house could furnish them. Only half the battle is won when the cheese Is made and out of the press. The curing Is a most impor tant matter, and but few farmhouses have suitable rooms for this purpose where a low, dry temperature can be kept in hot weather. If any one in tends to make a business of making dairy cheese a small room should be fitted up with an ice rack in the centre and water drainage from the same. In making dairy cheese from a large number of cows a cheese room or cheese house would be fitted up with factory apparatus and run as a fac tory, only on a smaller scale. And the cheese made by any factory pro cess would be much like the factory make, but with the advantage of only one herd of cows furnishing the milk and that of uniform quality.—Alpha Messcr, in Orange Judd Farmer. six or eight weeks after blossoming. Many other fruits are better for thin ning; this is particularly true of ai>ri cots. The average grower of apples may keep the bearing surface within proper limits by judicious pruning. Thinning apples by knnd Is not a pay ing business with present market con ditions. The time is coming when fruit growers will better understand their work, a more uniform grade, bet ter in quality, grown and marketed by business methods. This Is what our horticultural societies are working for, to place a better product upon the market, and It is reasonable to sup pose that higher prices will follow.— F. L. lieeves, in American Agricultur ist. Hill Culture of Strawberries. Many years ago I owned a small fruit farm near the city of Cleveland, Onio, in the midst of an extensive fruit-growing district, and had re markable success one year with hill culture of strawberries. After enrich ing the land with a coat of stable manure drawn from the city, I plant ed a small plot, little more than one eighth of an acre, with Jueundas, which were then famous because of the unique success of Tames Knox in raising them on the hill-tops above Birmingham at Pittsburg. I had vis ited his extensive plantation, and pur chased at a liigji price this famou3 variety from one of my neighbors, be lieving from Mr. Knox's success that they would be profitable. The soil was a dark, gravelly loam In an old orchard. The planting was In the spring. All rnnners were cut off during the summer, and the plat was well cultivated with the hoe, the plants being eighteen inches apart each way. The growth was very strong. During the following winter they were protected by a light cov ering of straw. The next summer I had them care fully gathered by pickers from the city, in baskets holding four quarts with handles. These baskets were rounded up, and all the stems were turned down on the top of the basket, so that no green leaf or stem was visi ble. I had the first picking taken to a fruit dealer nn the "Square," neat the wealthy residence portion of the city, whoso first offer was $1 a basket. When the second picking was taken the dealer said they were all sold in advance at $1.25 a basket, and if I could have had three or four times as many, the firm would have been glad 10 obtain them at $1 a basket. They were declared to be the finest lot of strawberries ever seen in Cleveland market. I sold from that small plot $325 worth of strawberries during that'first year's marketing. The second year they produced well, but not as fine berries as I might have raised from Wilson plants, cared for as my Jueundas were the preceding year. The person from whom I pur chased the plants had a large plat of Jueundas probably two or more acres—plnnted on clay soil, well un derdralned; but they were very unsat isfactory, as the berries did not ripen, but matured in size while green in color, and they were usually wedge shaped. My berries were finely formed, the color dark, rie.i and uni form, and as glossy as though they had been varnished. The flavor was remarkably rich, almost spicy and vin ous, while those raised on elay soil were comparatively tasteless. I be lieve that any one having a gravelly or sandy loam might have equally as line success as myself if they would plant Jueundas on very rich soli, eigh teen inches apart each way, and keep nil runners cut off. This variety has proved so uncertain that I rarely see it advertised, but in appearance and in quality I believe they are not equalled by any other variety when they are produced in their best form. My crop would aver age one and a quarter inches in cir cumference. Parties who purchased them sent them to friends in Boston, Washington and New York City. I sold the fruit farm before I had nn opportunity to try another experi ment with them. If I shall again have a chance with a comparatively loose soil I Intend to repeat the experiment, but I have not had that opportunity. After one year's heavy crop I should plow the plants under, as they are exhausted in ripening nn enormous crop. Donald Fornley, iu the Country Gentleman. It Is said that the net annual profit derived from the cultivation of tropi cal fruits In Mexico ranges from 100 to over 200 per rent.