ELLEN OSBORN'S LETTER.
The Season Begins with tho Marl
borough Wedding Festivities.
MUHnimlrc'M Montor Dosoanta—How Men's
Costume Is Affected by Women's Exam
ple—Green in Gowns and Neckties—
Tea Gowu Varieties.
COPYRIGHT 1835.
The season begins!
Not so many years ago the middle of
September marked, in New York, the
opening of the town gayetics. What a
difference in 18951 It is now November.
Cornelius Yanderbilt and liis family
have but just returned from 1 heili colos
sal new castle in Newport, "The Break
ers," to their Brobdingnagian new
castle in New York. The Vanderbilt-
Marlborougli wedding next Wednesday
is the great social event of the month,
and may really be said to open the sea
son, in the strictest sense. A dozen
weddings aro to follow it in quick suc
cession, in St. Thomas' church. The
pressure of u real duke's knee at the al
tar rail is a hint to fashionable bride
grooms expectant to kneel there also,
und the clergy, sextons and other ap-
//: n " VO'ApA
ffi? h O "Vl
\_iv
THE GOWNS WE SIIOI' IN.
pendnges of the church are counting
their chickens before hatching, with
more certainty than usually attends
that delightful operation.
A fashionable woman is nowadays so
overwhelmed with invitations, re
sponses, begging letters and other cler
ical business that she is quite satisfied
not to get into harness much be
fore snow flies. Society observances
amount to a profession. Have we not
all heard of late that a daughter of
.lulia Ward llowc is to train the daugh
ter of a western millionaire in these
observances, and that three years arc j
reckoned none too long for the tuition? j
"One first principle of society, my i
dear young lady"—so we may imagine
the first lesson of this mentor to be
gin—"is the principle of extremes. In
high society we breakfast like pigs and
dine like Lucullus. Even this state
ment which 1 have just made is ex
treme, hence modish.
"Thus in fashions, again, we have the
plainest of gowns for outdoor use, and,
for no discoverable reason, glitter like
bulteWlies after the clock has struck—
'' J |j|
AN 1895 EVENING GOWN.
well, ten, let us say. But whereas a
woman may wear the plainest of gowns
coaching or walking or golfing, let her
shop—this year at least; the next it
may be different—in a gown of gayer
style, befitting the joyfuiness of the oc
casion. For the theater, anywhere.in
the house, if abroad, or in a box if at
home, evening dress by all means. If
in the orchestra chairs in New York
one mny—in Boston should—wear a
material as old as black satin, but en
liven it with white satin and creamy
lace, and a ruche of pink roses—like
.this —"
And at this point I can imagine tin;
Mentor diclosing such a gown as [
saw shown Ihe other night, after the
wrap had been thrown aside. And the
wrap was a dainty trifle of velvet with
dace, niul bends and jet and paste buck
les so com pounded thatitscemed to need
straightway another cloak for its own
protection.
The Mentor will descant upon the
reign of velvets this year of grace, 1895.
She will speak of blouses, and reeoni-
IV9P# b> U C'T the use of I
Dresden and Louis silks with their
delicate China-like patterns. Bbe will
descant on the glories of stamped and
embossed velvet. She will speak of
lea gowns, not so long ago things ail of
soft and clinging silks and satins, but
now built of stuff as heavy and sub
stantial as velveteen or even velvet, so
much do the times change and we in
them. An olive green tea gown of vel
veteen with old twine colored lace at
ncek and cuffs, and bishop sleeves to
the wrist, she will commend if her
heiress is dark and well colored.
Let us drop the Mentor, who in real
life might refuse to he disposed of so
easily, and speak of a tea gown suitable
for a particular type of warm blonde
—a pale silver gray velvet or velveteen,
made with a gathered a nd pointed yoke
of amber eliiffon in front, and decked
with bands of silver embroidery. The
black is in Wattoau folds with a stole of
yellow chiffon and the sleeves are all
of the chiffon, in big puffs to the wrists,
interrupted at the elbow with sil
vered bands of embroidery. Cer
tain types of quiet, little mouse colored
women wear such a gown with disquiet
ing effect on the opposite sex. There
is a tea gown, too, and this shows the
wide divergence now possible in a "ar-
ment whose type used to be fairly fixed
—in white crepe de chene, with a short
zouave jacket of old rose velvet bor
dered with pearls. The sleeves are vel
vet to the elbow and crepe thence to
the wrists, and all the way roped with
pearls. The colar is a combination of
the velvet stock with stoles or Geneva
bands in front and back.
Green is so much the season's color
that even dull man covets a touch of
it in his neckwear, in the enamel of his
cuff links, and in the very material of
his suit. He w ears it, in all these eases,
hi combination with red. a thing less
daring than it sounds, if there be a
plenty of nonresisting buffer of brown
or gray to reconcile the rival colors.
The mystic relation between men's
wear and women's has often been ob
served. rn tints and colors the sterner
sex arc shamele-s imitators, as who
would not be who had Veen the pretty
street dress, which may have cost but a
trifle, so simple was it, that I saw yes
terday. The skirt material was a mix
ture of grayish green or greenish gray,
cut perfectly plain. A zouave of the
same cloth was edged with gray em
broidery with a dash of red. There
was a gathered stole collar and u plated
vest front in pale-green silk with white
dropped through it here and there like
a plummet of light in a sunny sen. With
such a gown a hat mainly of quite dark?-
green velvet can he worn, with huge
curling black ostrich feathers, if one
wishes; or the lighter greens and grays
can be very sparingly used in combina
tion with the darker and better shades.
One is reminded of Wnttcau shep
herdesses and Greu/.e milkmaids this
season by a number of things; by tho
sweet little jackets an<H>y the demure
fichus and kerchiefs of spotless lace,
and most of all, perhaps, by the very
latest Paris fad, a demure little apron,
so puffed and furbclowed and disguised
as scarcely to be recognizable, ap
pended to gowns of the most delicate
and costly material. Such an orna
ment is seen to advantage on u Louis
fioize gown In Pompadour brocade,
with blue and pink flowers on a white
ground.
ELLEN Osnoitx
CARE OF THE WOUNDED.
New Method of Transporting the Disabled
on Hoard Ship*.
The naval surgeons at Washington
have perfected the rules which will gov
ern the treatment und care of the dis
abled in tim£j>f action on board ship.
The method of transporting those who
are disabled is a matter of great im
portance and cannot ulvvays be easily
and rapidly, done in times of excit
ment. To facilitate the prompt atten
tion which should be given to those
who are injured, a structure bar has
been perfected capable of being rigged
for lowering from the main deck
through a hatchway into the sick quar
ters.
This bar is seven feet long, and, made
of one-inch wrought iron piping, with
ELEVATOR FOR THE WOUNDED.
each end forged flat and fitted with a
sharp hook, having play in a three
quarter-inch opening, is given the neces
sary obliquity by means of a suitable
sliding binding strap held together b}
a bolt, which can be tightened by a
thumbscrew, and attached to a ring
into which the hook of the tackle Is in
serted. A guiding line is made fust
to one end of the bar when required.
Hammocks are to be utilized for trans
portation along decks from which the
sick or wounded are to be lowered. The
hammock, unlashed and spread on the
deck, contains a mattress upon which
the wounded man is laid. The blanket
spread over him is secured by three 01
four lashings. Instructions will be
given the stewards and their assistants
in lifting and placing the sick and
wounded men so as to give them as little
suffering in the transportation as pos
sible.
To place the sick or wounded man in
the hammock, two stretcher bearers
take positions one and two, respect ive
ly;No. 1, standing astride the patient's
chest, with toes close to the armpits,
stoops and locks his hands under the
shoulder blades, and the patient, should
his arms he uninjured, clasps No. 1
around the neck. No. 2, with his right
foot between the knees and his left
alongside the hips of the man, bends
his right knee and takes hold of the legs
at tho bend of the knees. At the sig
nals, "ready," "lift," from No. 1, they
raise the body in unison, and, keeping
step. No. 1 counting one, two; one two,
etc., they move forward and deposit the
wounded person on the hammock.
After the lashing is complete, the man
is temporarily put aside until some per
son or persons detailed for tho purpose,
such as the two divisional aids to
wounded, can transport him by drag
ging the hammock along the deck to
the hatch, where one cf the stretcher
bars is rigged. This is effected most
readily by one person at each end, the
hammock being moved longitudinally.
Arriving at the hatch, the bearers snap
the safety hooks at the ends of the bar
into the hammock rings and lower. The
angle at which this is done, depending
on the size of the hatchway, should
have been previously fixed by loosen
ing the thumbscrew and shifting the
point of attachment to the tackle nearer
the head end of the bar. When the
hammock is released the stretcher bar
is hoisted, and is ready for another
pat ient-laden hammock.
Machinery firings Hotter Pay.
Since theextensive introduction of the
sewing machines we do not hear of the
distressed needle women, at one time
so prevalent. Typewriters get double
the wages they would get as pen writers,
and they do six times as much work
with comparative pleasure and great
leisure. Steamships costing millions
equipped with every known invention
for safe and eflicient service, in six days
at a nominal cost, with every comfort,
lake weekly with almost unfailing reg
ularity thousands of people across the
Atlantic, where in 1790 it took Samuel
Slater, the honored founder of the cot
ton trade, sixty-six days to cross, and
no doubt with great discomfort and
danger. Small newspapers cost at one
time six, eight and twelve cents, and
were loaded with a government revenue
stamp. Now a better paper can be
got for a cent, but the compositors and
printers get much higher pay and have,
like the newspapers, increased many
thousandfold. So it runs nil through,
and the whole world gets benefited.
Some Queer Facta About Air.
The celebrated chemist of the six
teenth century who arguod that it
would be impossible for us to live on
the earth's surface if the atmosphere
should suddenly increase to twice its
present thickness could not have been
far wrong after all; that is, if the ex
periments of I)r. Arnott are to be
taken as conclusive. In bis observa
tions on atmospheric pressure at the
bottoms of the deep mining shafts of
Europe, Prof. Arnott, has found that
the change between the readings of n
barometer at the bottom of a 4,000-foot
shaft and one at the surface is great
enough to warrant him in making the
statement that air at the bottom of u
shaft 20 miles deep would be as dense
as water. Fguring on the same ratio,
he finds that if a hole could be sunk 40
miles into the bowels of the earth the
density of the air at the bottom would
be us great ua thulof quick-silver.
Cvertlolnflf It.
"Dear ono," lie whispered, "(If) you
think J? I m.irrP'd yo-t • our father ,
would ever forgive us?"
"I'm sure hi; would, dear," slie as
serted, softly.
"And would lie give us 11 house of our
own ?"
"I know he would, dearest."
"And would he give us enough to live 1
beautifully on?"
"I'm sure of it. Harry."
'"And would lie take me into the !
firm?"
"Certainly he would."
"And let me run the business to suit
myself?"
"Of course he would, darling."
She snuggled to his bosom, but he put
her aside, coldly.
"1 euunot marry you," he said.hoarse
ly. "Your father is too willing to get
you oil his hands."—X. Y. Journal.
Quilt* Secure.
"I want to consult you on a certain
point," said Miss Cash to her lawyer.
" 1 am at your service, Miss Cash,"
"You know Mr. Squildig?"
"Very well, indeed."
"lie has done nie the honor of pro
posing marriage."
"Ah!"
"What I wish to ask is if you think 1
my money would be safe in liis hands
if 1 were to marry him."
"It would be so secure you could not
even get it yourself." Pittsburgh
Clironiele-Telegraph.
Ho Hud 1*111(1 Tor This.
The amateur chicken farmer was
balancing his accounts for the year ami
in the midst of his work he said to his !
wife: "My dear, how much a pound do
you pay for beef?"
"For the best steak we pay eighteen
cents."
"Thanks. Now I understand why
they say one egg is equal to a pound of
meat."-—Judge.
Curative Value of Talk.
Mrs. Gray—Strange that you should
consult Mr. Jalap when your husband
is a physician.
Mrs. Black—l find it more helpful to
consult Mr. Jalap. When I begin to
tell him about my bad feelings he al
ways asks nie to hold out my tongue.
But my husband only tells me to hold
it.—Boston Transcript.
Fin do Steele.
The outraged parent clapped his hand
upon liis sword.
"Draw and defend yourself!" he
hissed.
But the profligate sou preferred to
wait until the old man had got back to
the city. Then lie made it a sight draft,
with expenses of collection added.—
Dockland Tribune.
Modiolii Item.
First Doctor—l had a very interesting
case the other day. The diagnosis was
all right, but the course of the disease
was decidedly abnormal.
Second Doctor—What course did it j
take?
First Doctor—The patient recovered.
—-Texas Sittings.
Much in Little.
"What a bright, vivacious girl Miss
Lovett is! She seems to have an un
limited capacity for enjoyment."
"She lias, indeed. 1 myself have
been her consume six consecutive plates
Df ice cream and then accept an invita
tion to go for soda water."—Truth.
FiiHlly Remedied.
Young Husband—My love, these bis
cuits are sour, horribly sour.
Y'oung Wife (who took the chemistry
prize at boarding school) —I forgot to
udd the soda, my dear; but never mind,
lifter tea we can walk out and get some
aoda water.—-Boston Transcript.
A Clone <i (leaser.
"Button," button, who's pot the button?"
We really do not know,
But the man witli the contribution box
May be üble to tell you, though.
—L. A. W. Bulletin.
TAlil.i: ETIQUETTE.
She—\ ou shouldn't make a face, even
when you have found a bad oyster. It
eliows very bad taste.
He—Yes, 1 think it docs.—Lesle'u
Weekly.
Hotter by Fur.
With due respect to the wise men,
When all is done and said,
'Tis better to have loved and lost
Than to have loved and wed.
—Brooklyn Life.
Must Cull on Her Husband.
First New Woman (at tlie club) —
Have you finished your social duties for
the day, dear?
Second New Woman—Horrors! 110. !
I feel that I really must go home and
call on my husband.—N. V. Journal.
Uencriilly l'ned.
She—You say your verses and othej
literary efforts have appeared in ull the
leading magazines?
lie —Yes; every big advertiser uses
my work. —Brooklyn Bife.
Knew Its Dancers.
Lndy of the llouse—Are you familiar
with nil kinds of work?
Weary Willy—Ves, mum; I'm onto it.
—Fuck.
\ Utterly Miuiih-Icks.
"I admit some of the stories abou', .
me are true," said the cholera microbe, i
"but I didn't go into this business iu |
pursuit of health."—Chicago TidbuueJ
VAIMNA ANNE DAVIS.
Known in tho South a3 "Daughter
of tho Oonfodoraey."
*2f-r Experiences During the War In the
Prison Cell of llcr Father—Educated
with Cure In Europe—Suc
cors 11 h n Writer.
If anyone should ask Miss Varina
Anne Jefferson Davis for the story of
her life she would reply,in the language
of the needy knife-grinder: "Story!
Bless you, I've none to tell!" This
would be quite true so far as her
own recollection goes, but at the
time of lier life of which she knows
nothing but by hearsay she had
some thrilling experiences.
"Winnie Davis," as she is always
called, was born in the executive
mansion at Richmond, Ya., at the
close of the war—in June, 1804, I
believe—and when she was in long
clothes she was sharing her father's
prison cell with him. She had her
experiences of war before that, for
she took part in the retreat from Rich
mond, jolting along for hundreds of
miles in an ambulance. Even at that
early stage of her career she showed
that she was worthy to be a soldier's
daughter; for, according to her moth
er, who ought to know, she never
fretted or was cross, and if tlife ambu
lance gave a particularly hard bounce
over the rough roads her baby checks
would flush with pain, but she kept her
tears back for more trying occasions.
Her father had been at Fortress Mon
roe for a year when Mrs. Davis and Win
nie joined him. The other children,be
ing older, were left in Canada with
their grandmother. Winnie was still a
babe in arms; all daylong she would
play contentedly in her father's prison
room. She was much petted by the of
ficers and their wives, but she preferred
to be with her father in his cramped
quarters rather than to enjoy the free
dom that he could not share.
The first five years of tlic little
Winnie's life were spent in England;
then she was brought back to Mem
phis, Tenn. At an unusually early age
she showed a taste for reading, and her
parents directed her young mind
through tlic fields where the best lit-
MISS WINNIE DAVIS.
craturc grew, says Harper's Bazar. Her
father was particularly proud of her
precocity, and loved to read aloud to
her and listen to her wise comments on
what ho had read. The climate of the
south did not. agree with the child, so
she was sent to a boarding-school at
Carlsrulie, Germany, where she not
only learned the language of the coun
try, but became equally proficient in
French, so t hat when she went to Paris,
at the end of her German school days,
she had only to put the finishing touches
to her knowledge of that language.
She also studied music and drawing*,
and though she never has done as much
with those two arts as she should have,
considering her talents, she occasion
ally charms her friends with a song or
delights them with the gift of a part
ing by her hand.
At the age of seventeen Miss Davis
returned to her native land and con
tinued lier studies under her father's
direction. She not only studied and
rend with him, but she shared his love
of horses, and many were the long
rides they took 011 their thoroughbreds
through the woods at Beauvolr. Though
a studious girl, and fond of reading, she
is an out-of-door girl as well, and not
having a horse In New York, where she
spencb* the winters, or at Nnrrngansett
Pier, where her summers are passed,
she mount* her wheel and flies over the
roads in a manner that would astonish
her favorite horse if ho could see her.
Miss Davis made her social debut
in New Orleans, just after her return
from Paris, as queen of the carnival.
Shortly after this she accompanied her
father to Atlanta, Ga„ where at a recep
tion tendered to him she was intro
duced to the cheering crowd by Gen.
John Gordon as "the daughter of the
confederacy," and by that name she is
known ail through the south. That the
confederate soldiers regard lier in this
light is proved by the number of regi
mental and brigade badges which they
have presented her, and which she
\vi ars when she attends their reunions.
Miss Davis' debut as a writer may
be said to have been made in a pamphlet
she wrote for a New Orleans literary
.lub, and which was published and
passed through three editions. She has
written for the North American Re
view and other periodicals, so that
when she wrote "The Veiled Doctor"
she was hardly a novice with the pen.
That, however, was her first novel;
but, judging by tlie way it has been re
ceived, it will not be her last. In fact,
I believe that she was already engaged
on another before "The Veiled Doctor"
was published.
The death of her father, Jefferson
Davis, which occurred during lier sec
ond visit to Paris, was u severe blow
to Miss Davis, and she w as so prostrated
by it that her life was despaired of.
Youth and high health were or. her side,
however, and she recovered.
How Rapidly a Man He -Im.
When reading a man usually gets
through 400 words a minute.
What is ;:,s§t
Castoria is Dr. Samuel Pitcher's prescription for Infants
and Children. It contains neither Opium, Morphine nor
other Narcotic substance. It is a harmless substitute
for Paregoric, Drops, Soothing Syrups, and Castor Oil.
It is Pleasant. Its guarantee is thirty years' use by
Millions of Mot licrs. Castoria destroys Worms and allays
feverislincss. Castoria j)rcveuts vomiting Sour Curd,
cures Diarrhoea and Wind Colic. Castoria relieves
teething troubles, cures constipation and llatulency.
Castoria assimilates tlio food, regulates tlio stomach
and bowels, giving healthy and natural sleep. Cas
toria is tlio Children's Panacea—the Mother's Friend.
Castoria. Castoria.
"Castoria la an excellent medicine for chit- " Castoria ts so well adapted to children that
dren. Mothers have repeatedly told mo of Us , reC omme n d It ussuperior toauy prescription
good effect upon tlieir children." kuowu to me."
Da. G. C. OBOOOD, n. A. AncnKß, M. D.,
Lowell, Mass. 11l So. Oxford St., Brooklyn, N. Y.
" Castoria Is tlio best remedy for children of " Our physicians in tho children's depart
whieh lam acquainted. I hope the day is not ment have spoken highly of their experi
far distant when mothers will consider the real euce in their outside practice with Castoria,
interest of their children, and use Castoria in- and although we ouly have amoug our
stead of the various quack nostrums which are medical supplies what is known as regular
destroying their loved ones, by forcing opium, products, yet wo are free to confess that the
morphine, soothing syrup and other hurtful merits of Castoria has won us to look with
agents down their throats, thereby sending favor upon it."
them to premature graves." UNITED HOSPITAL AND DISPENSARY,
Da. J. F. KiNcnELOE, Boston, Mass.
Conway, Ark. ALLEN C. SMITH, Pres.,
The Contanr Company, TT Murray Street, Now York City*
DOCTOR
11 EN(iUSH^ ( I
• ! will stop n cough in a night, check a cold 5
i in a day, and cure consumption it taken P
• in time. It the little ones have Croup or P
" i C*>ugh, *
1 I fatal disease. jt
' : f J'" ° n "' I
■ I
' i * * * 'in uelny. I
, The disease progresses so rapidly that P
' | the loss of a tew hours in treatment is P
' ! often fatal. Acker's Kxoi.isii Remi - P
J nv will cure Croup, and it should Hi- p
3 ways he kept iti the house for p
J emergencies. A 25 cent bottle may P
3 Throe si7.es:'isc, 50c. sl. All Drupßistß' i
i ACKER MEDICINE CO. [
I id A? iS Chambers St., New York. (
k N
<2:':. ~v- ■<-
MANSI i: 1 :• 1 \r, MIIvIAI. schooi .
Intellectual and mat tied tiaiaing for teachers.
Three courses of study besides preparatory. Special
attention given to preparation for college. Students
admitted to best colleges 011 tertii'u ate 'i hirty giadu
atcs pursuing further stutb.s last year, tovat adia: -
tapes for special studies in ntt and music. Model
school of three hundred pupils. Corps of sixteen
teachers, beautiful grounds. Magnificent huilriiu s.
I.aico grounds for athletics. Klvvator and infiimat y
with attendant nurse. Fine gymnasium. Everything
fmnished at an average cost to normal students </
si.|j a year. Fall term, Aug. 28. Winter trim, Dei .
2. Spring term, March 16. Students admitted t >
classes at any lime. For catalogue, containing full
information, apply to g Hi ALBRO , Principal,
Mansfield, Pa.
Pflildicnti-r'n F.igll-h IMumoni! lining.
EftNYROYAL FILLS
n II<! Otdj <• in nt. .
w
l-e* jo "Heil'er n.r I'miie'*/- ,
—\ /> Mull. I 0,1100 I t -llliiotiials. V,„
. f t hli 'it -ter <ln liilcul < >.. llinll-ttii-..i uu.. ,
•"* ** ail Local brujutiati. l'liih.du., !*••
Just :i (■ tiess.
One reason why the anarchist
Foams at the mouth, we fear,
Is because he cannot spare the time
To blow It off the beer.
—L. A. W. Bulletin. .
A Home Thrust.
Mr. J'o/./kton —You make a mess of
everything*.
Mrs. Fo/./.leton YOll are mistaken;
there is one thing" 1 have never been
able to make a mess of yet.
Mr. Fo/./.leton—What is that ?
Mrs. Fozzleton—The fish you ealeli
".vheii you go fishing.—Brooklyn Fugle.
Not Prepared to Say.
Smith—l see that Jones was at that
dinner the other night. What did he
think of the speeches?
Brown— When 1 saw him he was jus;
going to read them in a morning paper.
—Brook ly 11 Li l'e.
AH to rolitb'H.
•Tones—Why doesn't Snaggstjuif poli
lies? lie gets turned dowu ail the
time.
Brown He can't. The hnhit has
been formed and he can't breakitolf.—
Detroit Free Dress.
Hunter's l.uek.
Hunter - Hoy, did you see a rabbit run
\y here ?
Boy— Yep.
Hunter—l how long ago?
Boy—it'll be three years nex' Chris'-
Truth.
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n ft ■ IIJ m g
% M 3cm Jfw
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