GREAT ISCHICAGO!
Manifold Attractions of This
Most Marvelous of Cities.
HOW TO SEE THE WORLD'S FAIR.
The AVomier of the Wet Han Become
the Wonder of the W<A*ld—Her Cliur- 1
urteriiitlcH—Her lllfitory in a Nutshell. '
Her Three "Sides," North, Went and i
South—Her Few Statues, Iler Many
Hotela, Theaters, Churches, Cluha, Sa-
IOOIIM and l)c])ot8.
ICopyrlght, IP9U, by American Preaa Associa
tion.]
It is the common remark of theso days
that the growth of Chicago has no par
allel in history. Fifty-five years ago
there were 4,000 Chicagoans. When
the war began there were 100,000.
When the great fire came there were
350,000. Now the school census shows
1,400,000, and the gain since it was
known the World's Columbian exposi
tion would be held at Chicago has been
uot less than 000,000 souls.
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WOMAN'S TEMPLE.
If we seek for causes, we are told that
Chicago was the point farthest west
ward by water carriage in the temperate
zone during the greatest historic migra
tion of the human race. If the emigrant
desired to reach a region westward of
Lake Michigan, the journey as far as
Chicago would bo the easier and least
expensive part of it. A city is made
not by itself, but by its surroundings;
not by those who stay, but by those who
pjiss through. Tlio entry of steam power
into the affairs of men only increased
the advantages of Chicago. That <tfty
could offer to a railroad the most freight
ami the greatest number of passengers.
Fort Dearborn was built in 1803. It
became untenable during the British
war of 1812 on account of Indian hostil
ities. The garrison, with women and
children, marched out on Aug. 15,
1812, and on reaching a treo which now
stands dead nt Eighteenth street and the
fake a massacre began which finished
with the escape of only a few of the
whites.
With the advent of the civil war Chi
cago, as a railroad center, rendezvous
and news distributing point, became the
cynosure of the west. Its press carried
the news of battle and made the daily
newspaper a necessity. As battles were
not everyday events, the local affairs of
the young city were ceaselessly pressed
upon the attention of the people, and a
skating rink, a murder, a horse race, an
artesian well or a baseball tournament
served to fill western Americans with
the never ceasing idea that in some way
Chicago was the most wonderful si>ot
on the globe.
The young men of Michigan, Indiana,
Illinois, lowa and Wisconsin, increasing
the wonder and curiosity of their elders,
fooked steadfastly on Chicago for in
spiration and good fortune. It was at
(this date—war times—that the New
York Tribune and Moore's Rural New
Yorker lost their supremacy in western
animls. Tlio western star of empire rose
clearly into the firmament of history.
The reader must recall the fact that
theso people were pioneers. They had
built log houses in the forests. Wells
had been dug and curbed, baskets had
been made, brooms had been made,
shakes (shingles) had been split, feuceH
had been built, and the tools were but
an ax, a saw and a spade. A city of
350,000 souls, with stone fronted palaces |
sfr stories high, had risen in their very j
sight. It was mighty to them. It was 1
their all. New York, Philadelphia,
London, Paris, Vienna—these cities, '
with their smooth streets and Rhadv !
vistas, were in another world.
NEW PUBLIC LIBRARY.
On the night of Oct. 8 and the whole
day of Oct. 0, 1871, this marvelous city
burned. The loss was reckoned in the
hundreds of millions. Chicago had
been. It was no more. Chicago was
like a dream. Theso tidings—the most
frightening that the world had heard
in modern times of peace—came upon
the western states with paralyzing
force.
For days men went dazed about their
bnsiuesa. Without Chicago, what would
they ditf What would life be worth?
Where would the news come from?—for
nothing ever seemed to happen outside
of Chicago. Withal, there was joy that
the conflagration was the greatest that
ever wast It fulfilled the fond expecta
tions of the west. They told you sol
these fanners, thrashing in their bams.
Chicago Rebuilt.
The city of Chicago was mainly re
built in the year 1872. For a decade
later there was a uniformity in the lines
of five story business blocks that gave to
the city a solemn and mighty appearance.
With the invention of the water ele
vator, buildings might profitably go
higher than six stories. The Moutauk
block, on Monroe street, near Dearborn,
ventured skyward ton stories, and there
were citizens who avoided Monroe street
until the autumnal gales proved that tc.i
story buildings would stand. The year
1884 saw the completion of a group of
thirteen story structures—the Board of
Trade, the Royal Insurance, the Home
Insurance, the Pullman and the Rook
ery. The foundations for these stupen
dous piles entirely filled the cellars. Chi
cago had been noted for the flimsiness
of her architecture. Suddenly each
builder seemed bent on outdoing his
neighbor in cyclopean construction.
High buildings were experiments. In
four years—after many doubts—they
succeeded. The Auditorium was pro
jected by Ferdinand Peck, and its dedi
cation by the president of the United
States and Adelina Patti discovered to
all observers a gathering of persons of
vast wealth. No city could be other
than metropolitan whose Inhabitants
could afford to rent over fifty opera
boxes at $2,500 for a season of three
weeks.
Meantime the Boulevard, which was
once Michigan avenue, stretched south
ward for fifty blocks lined with houses
nearly every one of which was as hand
some and commodious as the Vanderbilt
mansions on Fifth avenue in New York.
The Lake Shore drive'bn the north was
coped with a marble breakwater, and
the towers and keeps of Potter Palmer's
Middle Ages castle rose conspicuously
among 500 other houses whose magnifi
cence was gainsaid by nobody. The
Duke of Marlborough came to Chicago,
and bad the grace to say that he thought
Michigan boulevard was the finest resi
dence thoroughfare he had Been in the
world.
With one more epoch of architecture
wo arc arrived at the gates of 1893 and
the World's Columbian exposition. It
was discovered by the inventors that if
a steel houso were built it would require
but a comparatively small foundation.
Thus the Taeoma building ros£ to six
teen stories with no outside walls.
When it came to that, terra cotta cast
ings were strung on iron joists. In this
way the cellar of the Tacoma building
could be made to bring a large rental
each year. Marshall Field had ex
pended SIOO,OOO on the foundations of
the Woman's temple, at Monroe and La
Salle. These pyramids of stone com
pletely filled the excavation to street
grade. It would cost many thousands
of dollars to take them out. But out
they came, and the enormous Woman's
temple—the dream of Mrs. Carse and
Miss Willard—thus preserved its nether
regions to increase the revenue of its
landlord.
Wo are thus at 1892. On every hand,
scorning the regular roof lines of 1872,
rise buildings just twice as high, the
sixteen stories of today being each very
low and not higher together than ten
stories of the old days. Iron and tile,
marble and plato glass, red clierry and
POBTOFFICK AND CUSTOM HOUSE,
terra cotta are everywhere. A letter
can be mailed at the elevator shaft. The
old buildings—called old now, with only
twenty years of age—are all doomed.
Their handsome facades, their stately
columns, arches and acanthus leaves cut
in stone must be demolished, keeping
Chicago in turmoil, but preparing the
city for the labors of the future. If
huge monuments are prophetic it must
be that those labors are to bo tremen
dous.
Visiting Chicago.
During the next year Chicago will be
visited hs Paris and New York are vis
ited. People will not go there on busi
ness, nor to change cars for some farther
city. They will journey thither to in
spect the World's Columbian exposi
tion, of which they have heard so much,
and to see Chicago, of which they have
heard so much more. What are the
chief characteristics of that city? What
kind of place is the tourist to behold?
Are there any sights, lions, attractions?
How is living, how are hotels, how
about the drinking water?
ClliCligo'H llutoU.
There are about 2,000 houses in Chi
cago, Lake View, Evanston, Hydo Park,
Englewood, Austin and Oak Park that
carry the names of hotels. Thoy range
from the caravansary, with 200 suites of
chamber and bath, to the cheap lodging
house, where ten cents will rent a place
I to sleep. Besides these accommodations
the newspapers teem with advertise
ments of Ixrnrd to be had, and if the
visitor will visit some handsome street,
and thereafter search in the advertise
ments for a boarding house in that
quarter, he cannot go awry, fie will be
safe, comfortable and economical. A
list of well kuown hotels is appended.
Their highest prices by the day are
given. Where that figure is nine dol
lars, it mnst bo understood that guests
can be kept as low as four or five dollars
a day:
Highest
Rooms, per day.
Palmer House,.,, 746 $o oo
Grand Pacitlc OCX) 600
Trcmont House.23o 5 00
Auditorium 600 0 00
Great Northern 400 0 00
Sherman llouso £OO 6 00
! Richelieu 150 0 00
Leland 800 6 Ou
Wellington ~..200 0 00
1 Victoria £OO 6 00
Southern 150 4 00
I Virginia *OO 6 00
Clifton House 200 1350
Hotel Henrlci (Gorman) 100 8 00
Atlantic 250 2 00
Hotel Grace ISO 2 00
Brevoort 250 2 (X)
I Burke's 00 2 00
! McCoy's 250 2 (X)
i Oofe's 250 2 00
I Kuhn's 110 U 00
1 C0mmercia1,.........M0 2 oo
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TUB HEART OF CHICAGO.
BrieKS 133 2 60 (
Windsor ; 108 3 no
Saratoga..... 200 3 (A
Brunswick 3 no
Graml Palace 200 2 00
Transit House (stockyards).... 200 2 00
Woodruff 100 4 <X)
Worth 60 3 00
Gau It 200 2 00
Washington 60 2 00
The precincts of the fair grounds will
teem with temporary hotels, and the
sleeping cars will bo utilized. Rapid
transit will carry thousands to their fur
off homes over night, and other hun
dreds of thousands will enter Jackson
park to leave it at night for home, see
ing Chicago not at all. There need be
little apprehension of trouble on the
score of accommodations, for Chicago is j
a vast city, with over sixty square miles ;
of improved real estate. It is a fact that
the Democratic national convention of j
1892 was not especially noticeable in the j
city streets. The scene on the main
streets at the noon hour, when the great |
office buildings empty their tenants for
lunch, is one not to be forgotten by per
sons inured to solitary surroundings.
Thorough fares.
The visitor will wish to know what
streets are important ones in Chicago.
He will be confused by the bridges, for
he can always look two ways and see a
bridge. All the streets of the central
section of Chicago are crowded with
people, but the great thoroughfares for
the stranger may thus be named:
North Side—Clark street.
West Side—Directly west, Madison
street; going northwest, Milwaukee ave
nue; going southwest, Bluo Island ave
nue.
South Side—State street, for the stock
yards; for the fair, Wabash avenue; for
carriages, Michigan boulevard.
Thirty years ago Lake street was all
in all. Twenty years ago Clark street
was supreme. Now State street possesses
the most valuable front feet and cor- :
nors. The crowd at Cliristmastide is ;
like the gatherings in Fourteenth street, j
New York city—perhaps more numerous. I
Chicago has not yet reached the Baron j
Hanssmann stage. Her streets are near- i
ly all at right angles. To relievo this evil
condition of things there are but four or ;
five diagonal streets, and but two that j
pierce the heart of the city. Along I
these namely, Milwaukee and Blue ,
Island avenues—live the vast foreign j
populations that have so steadily swelled !
Chicago's census.
This lack of direct communication will !
fall upon visitors to the World's fair as ,
their most serious burden, for it will 1
often double the cost of their street car |
fares. Chicago is in reality three cities, !
as effectively as Brooklyn, Jersey City
and New York. With the exception of
the new railroad, whic\i is to go south- 1
ward from the Douglas park region to
Jackson park, all other roads lead down
town first and thence to the fair. At
the same time the inconvenient situa- j
tion of the West Side hotel, restaurant
and boarding houso keepers will moder
ate their views of the traveler's necessi- I
ties, and he will obtain a measurable
abatement of high prices.
THE ROOSEttY.
On the great thoroughfares rapid cable
cars run at a fare of live cents. From
Lake street to Jackson park is over
eight miles. Tunnels go under the
river on the North and West Sides. The
West Side cable is the newest, swiftest
and best.
We have said Chicago is three cities—
the West, North and South "Sides."
The West Side.
For many years the West Side of
Chicago was as populous as both the
other quarters. The World'B fair and
the massing of the millionaires' houses
on the South Side, together with the
annexation of southern suburbs, have
brought tho South Side to a purity in
population.
Three beautiful parks skirt the west
ern environs of Chicago, connected by
the system of drives which Is to lncloso
the entire city. On the northwest Is
| Humboldt park; centrally lies Garfield
I park, with its artesian well. On the
southwest is Douglas park. Each of
these pleasure grounds is decorated with
a handsome pavilion and a still more
striking conservatory. Large lakes are
| a feature of the landscape, and row
| loats may be had for hire in each park.
! Union park is a pretty square on Wash
iugton boulevard.
AltT INSTITUTE, MICHIGAN AVENUE.
The most beautiful street of west Chi
cago is Ashland avenue, which, turning
into Twelfth street and Ogden avenue,
offers to wheelmen and drivers an as
phalt pavement without equal anywhere
in the city. Leaving Garfield park, en
tering the city, turning into Ashland
boulevard at Union park, turning into
Twelfth, veering into Ogden avenue,
reaching Douglas park and taking Doug
las boulevard for Garfield park again,
the cyclers may have a nearly ideal ride
of over seven miles. Jackson boulevard
is paved with asphalt and has many
magnificent houses. Washington boule
vard, a fine macadam residence street,
is perhaps the finest of tho West Side
driving avenues.
The population of tho West Side is
about 600,000 souls. It has two good
theaters, and tho display of shops at
Halstead and Madison streets is the most
I brilliant to be seen in tho whole city.
! Tho reader must not forget that railroad
! trains will run from Ogden avenuo U
: Jackson park direct, thus making the
southern part of the West Side easily
! accessible to the exposition.
I The churches of Chicago, as a general
thing, are not large. Often, tob, the
I architects have striven to depart from
j tho conventional aspects of ecclesiastical
: edifices. There is not a church on Madi
. son street, which is five miles long.
The North Side.
Should the visitor find himself on the
I North Side, ho should not miss a visit to
| the waterworks at Chicago avenue and
i the lake. The building and its isolated
| water tower are ornaments of the city,
| while the great pumping engines will be
| a fascinating study for any one who has
! never been on board ship.
! Following the Lake Shore drive north
: ward past tho superb homes of jnany mil
i mionaires and the archiepiscopal palace
! of Archbishop Feehati, the statues and
1 flower beds of Lincoln park aro soon in
1 view. This is the favorite resort of the
children of tho city,
j Here Mr. Charles F. Yerkes operates
a beautiful colored fountain at night,
and hero is displayed the largest collec
tion of wild animals in the city. This
zoological garden is deficient in inon
; keys, giraffes and famous birds, but
j maintains an excellent show of catlike
j animals, bears, wolves, seals, ruminants,
i beaver, otter and other rodents. The
| floral display at Lincoln park is excelled
j at few places in America. Tho regatta
lake, an artificial waterway a mile or
j more in length, has been made for the
benefit of oarsmen.
! Passing without from Lincoln park,
j the inquirer is soon at Gracoland, where
i are gathered many beautiful tributes
|of love and affection for the dead. The
j chapel at Graceland is one of the finest
lin the world. The Ryerson vault of
I polished granite, tho Farwell obelisk
and other great stones are well worth
| seeing. Farther north is Rose Ilill eein
: etery, with Long John Wentworth's
I great monolith, erected by himself; and
j Calvary, the Catholic burying ground,
| witli Mulligan's monument, is still far-
I ther north.
At the beautiful northern suburb of
; Evanston stands the Northwestern uni
, versity, the most celebrated seat of
| learning in Illinois.
The Mouth Hhle.
The long and narrow strip which is
reached by State st reet and Wabash and
i Michigan avenues harbors the wealth
and pride of Chicago. When a West
i Sider gets a million he moves to Prairie
; avenne. Within a stone'B throw of each
other on Michigan, Calumet and Prairie
avenues live a hundred men who to
gether are said to own estates worth
j $800,000,000.
I The best system of street cars and
transfers is on the South Side and was
built up by C. B. Holmes. The first !
elevated road was from Congress street >
(the Auditorium) to Fiftieth street, and i
will reach Jackson park. The suburban
service of the Illinois Central (lake shore)
road accommodates vast numbers of peo
ple. The exposition is on the South Side,
at the finish of handsome drives and
parkways. Property on the West Side
has not advanced in value. Some of the
real estate stories told on the South Side
would task a strong credulity. The
South Side always had the court house,
postoftice, the great clubs and the Art
institute. When the churches moved
out of the center after the tiro they all
went southward.
The horse cars are still running on
many West Side streets, and electric
lights have been kept out by the gas
trust. All but two of the railroad depots
are on the South Side; tho stockyards
are on the South Side. Some property
eight miles from the court house south
ward is worth S3OO a foot; some two
miles southwest is woi but SOO a foot.
Yet these very inequalities make tho
West Side a cheap place for the frugal,
keeping them out of tho way of those
prouder souls who love to support a lib
eral expense.
Monument*.
The monuments of Chicago are not
many, am) are, with the exception of
the one erected to the memory of Doug
las, of a minor value as city exhibits.
The Douglus monument stands on a fine
plat overlooking the lake from high
ground at Thirty-sixth street It was
finished at state expense. Both railroad
and cable cars pass this conspicuous
memorial on their way to the exposition.
In the Hay market, on West Randolph
street, West Side, stands the monument
erected to the memory of the eight po
licemen killed by the bomb of May 4,
1886. The bomb was not thrown in the
Hayinarket or where the monument
stands. Tho spot lies to the right of the
monument anil 200 feet into the cross
street called Desplaines, and commonly
pronounced as it is spelled. The cele
brated meeting of revolutionists was
held still farther away.
The other public monuments are near
ly all in Lincoln park. Tho great eques
trian statue of General Grant stands
on a rude stone structure. St. Gaudens'
statue of Lincoln is highly praised and
loudly condemned, according to the taste
of the visitor. It represents Lincoln in
modern attire, risen from a stone chair,
reading the emancipation proclamation.
There is a beautiful group of Indians,
and there are handsome effigies of Lin
naeus, Schiller and La Salle. Sheridan
is to have a monument in Union park,
on the West Side.
Gruat Iluildlngtf.
Tho visitor will do himself an injus
tice, if ho be from rural districts, if he
do not carefully inspect at least a dozen
of the celebrated tall buildings of Chi
cago. Here science and art have united,
with wondrous profusion of means, to
delight the eye and bring comfort to the
occupant. In the Auditorium, for in
stance, are 50,000,000 pieces of Romax
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THE UNITY BUILDING,
mosaic and acres of Mexican onyx. The
Auditorium has the largest theater in
tho world. A tower some twenty stories
high is always open to sightseers at a
fee of twenty-five cents. Tho Auditorium
all in all is tho principal "lion" in Chi
cago proper.
The Masonic temple is, so far as is
known in Chicago, the largest and most
novel structure on earth. It covers the
quarter of a city block. It is intended
to he a city in itself, with ten stories of
stores, seven stories of offices, three
stories of lodgerooms and a roof garden
twenty-one stories from tho ground.
Tho pillars in tho rotunda are eighteen
feet in circumference. The rotunda
itself terrifies the spectator. Calcula
tions of tho economies gained by tho nse
I of this building are the favorite paa
times of its tenants, and it cannot be
[ doubted that the advertising advantages
of doing business there will soon show
' themselves in the most surprising man
ner. The Masonic temple is at State
and Randolph streets.
Tho Woman's temple, at La Salle and
Monroe, is perhaps the next largest pile,
and its success is wholly assured as a
business venture.
The Chamber of Commerce block, the
Tacouia, the Rookery, the Pullman, the
Home, tho Uermania, tho Ashland, tho
Royal Insurance, tho Mouadnock, tho
I Unity, the Pheuix, the Rialto ami a
dozen other vast, steeplelike structures
will demand a share of attention. Those
buildings best repay a visit which, like
the Masonic temple, the Royal, tho C.,
B. and y. and the Chamber of Commeroo
(at Washington anil La Salle), offer a
central view of their entire interior.
, You may stand at an upper balustrade
in these houses and look sheer to tho
floor. The wainscoting, ceiling, walls
and pavement are often masses of orna
mental variegated stone,
j The store warehouse of Marshall Field
; stands at Fifth avenue and Adams.
I Richardson, the architect, is said to
1 have charged SIOO,OOO tor the plans.
The building is remarkable for tho large '
size of its blocks of dark granite. It
gives a darkish look lo the entire vicin- ;
ity. This is the largest dry goods busi
ness in tho world.
A 111 UM'lllttUtH.
Although Chicago has not escaped the '
murrain of variety acting v/hich all lie ts
the stage, her theaters are as good as
any, and one of her managers, Mr. Me-
Vicker, probably ranks at the head of
his profession in America. Of late years
theaters have succeeded on streets two
miles from the center of town. Thirty ,
theaters give daily performances, of
which the principal ones, outside of the
Auditorium (not usually open), are Mc-
Vicker's, the Grand opera houso, Huo
ley's, the Chicago opera house, tho Co- i
MASONIC TEMPLE,
lumbia, the Eden Musee, the Academy
of Music, the Haymarket, the Criterion,
Havlin's and the Olympic. Central
Music hall is usually open with a good
card, and panoramas of the tiro, Niag
ara and Gettysburg are permanent at
tractions. Moonlight excursions on the
lake and cable rides on the grip car are
favorite pastimes.
Charities, Etc.
The state of Illinois and the city of
Chicago are well off in hospitals and
charities. The Cook County hospital
and its surrounding structures form tho
most notable group of therapeutic and
educational buildings in the country.
Beginning with the Cook County and
Presbyterian hospitals wo may reckon
not less than thirty important Chicago
institutions of this noble character.
Tho public library has 180,000 volumes,
and is strong in periodicals, costumes
and Egyptology.
The Newberry library, now forming,
has an endowment of $2,500,000. It will
stand on North - State street, on Wash
ington square.
The Crerar library will have a similar
endowment, and will bar out novels, es
pecially French ones.
The Art institute is rapidly rising on
the lako front in place of the Interstate
Exposition building.
There are seventeen convents of Cath
olic nuns in the city.
Thero are 465 churches and 317 church
buildings, with steeples, bells or stained
windows.
There are 3,500 manufacturing estab
lishments, and somo of them employ
5,000 men each.
Clubs.
Clubs are an important feature of Chi
cago high life.
First comes the Commercial club,
which is an inner circle of the Chicago
club. It has sixty members, and to ob
taiu admission is the ambition of every
man who is growing enormously
wealthy.
The Calumet club has a great house at
Michigan avenue and Twentieth street.
Its annual reception of old settlers has
made it famous historically.
The Chicago club has recently bought
tho old Art institute. It vacated a line
building. It is the oldest of the clubs.
The Illinois club has a beautiful home
on Ashland avenue.
The La Salle club counts tho director
general of the World's fair among its
originators. It is a Republican club
and owns a marble house on West Mon
roe street.
The Union club has palatial quarters
on the North Side.
Tho Union League club has a home i
opposite the postoffice on Jackson street ,
and is a power in social affairs.
Tho Ashland club has a big house at I
Wood and Washington streets. The
Marquette is a similar institution on
Dearborn avenue.
The Argo club summers at the outer
end of the Illinois Central pier, while
less enterprising idlers swelter in the
heats of the south wind.
The Press, tho Whitechapel and tho
Sunset are clubs that are often heard of,
and about which public curiosity exists.
The Press club is building on Michigan
avenue. It has nearly all tho authors
of the city in its membership.
iii i
THE AUDITORIUM.
Thoro life nt least a hnnilred ether
social organizations ot influence and j
Standing. This feature of city life shows
a rapid development
There are at least fi.OUO dramshops in i
Chicago.
On the whole, Chicago is an excellent j
place for the World's fair. The inhab
itants will not he jealous of the exposi
tion. They will accord to it the gran- !
deur which it has. They foel the need
of a "lion" "worthy of Chicago." They
will not compel the civil guest to waste
precious time outside the gates of Jack
son park. One sees Chicago by passing
through the streets. At the fair the
greatest of sightseers may sup full a
thousand times and still leave a thou- ]
sand things unseen.
JOHN M'OOVEBN. I
WONDERFUL
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If you arc a sufferer l'rom any disease which
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This book, aside from its great m?rit as a
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Drs. STARKEY & PALEN,
1539 Arch St., Philadelphia, Pa.
130 Sutter St., Sail Francisco, Cal.
Please mention this paper.
_ '
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THE NEXT MORNING I FEEL BRIGHT AND
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American
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j j Price, 25c., 50c., and SI.OO per bottle.) |
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