The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, December 05, 1906, Image 2

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    Women Who Do
Mrs. Russell Shge. World's Rich
est Widow, the Most Pliilnnlliropic
of Women 1 lappy In Disbursing
"Uncle Russ' " Millions Wisely ::
Oi'iicrnslt' and, licncvoU'iii'i) are
words that sound HtnuiKC nssoclutcd
with tl)( niuim of Kiissell Hunts, at
least the Ilusscll Sag of pupulnr estl
niatlon. Vet It may have been one of
"Undo Hush' " grim Jokes to i-ujoy tlio
reputation of being tight with money,
knowing nil the while that Mrs. Kagp,
If she survived him, would sit up
nights unit get up early mornliiKH to
devise ways of spending his savings in
worthy philanthropies.
Margaret Olivia Ploctim Huge is a
great hearted, brainy woman, iptlte up
to date. In the best seiiHe she goes in
MRS. HtlSHRLL BAOR.
for the new woman. Two years ago, at
tho nge of seventy-six, she received the
degree of mistress of letters from New
York university. Her first act after ob
taining possesion of the fSO.OOO.OOO
left to her' by her husband's will was
to double the legacies he had bequeath
ed to each of his relatives. Thus she
cut off at the outset wearisome, money
eating will contests. One of her next
acts was to call before her the various
hired people who had served the Rages
long and well and reward them ac
cording to merit. Charles Hoss, her
coachman, has driven the Sage horses
forty years, and he received a cheek
for $2,000. Three women got each the
same amount, which proves Mrs. Saga
to be a good equal rights woman. She
has lately shown much Interest In wo
men artists and Is expected to be a
generous contributor to the fund bolus
raised to erect a building for the Wom
en's Art club In New York.
Mrs. Heidemenn, Insect Modeler,
Employed by the agricultural depart
men at Washington Is a woman whose,
occupation Is probably unique. Mrs? '
Otto Heldemaun places worms, bugs
and Insects under a powerful micro
scope and makes drawings of the cren-'
hires' bodies thus magnified. After .
that she reproduces In clay or other !
material the solid bodies of the crawl
ing, flying things she has drawn. The '
Insect model Is In each ense Immense- i
Iy enlarged over the creature's original '
size. Tills Is in order that all parts of
It may be studied with ease and exact
ness. The effect is sometimes almost
terrifying. The utmost dellcncy of eye
and touch Is required for Mrs. Helde- ,
matin's task. i
A Girl Revolutionist.
In Hamburg, Germany, Elizabeth
Kolph, a servant girl, has been sen
tenced to three years' imprisonment
for political revolutionary activity. In
the Humburgjocnl legislature a plan
was set on foot to pass n law which
would deprive huudrals of poor work-
logmen of the ballot. The scheme had'
rich capitalists behind It. A meeting
of workmen was held to gee what
mensurL's could be taken ugalnst the
proposed bill. Some of the speakers
were for submitting peaceably to the
wrong when suddenly up the aisle to
the platform from the back of the hall
strode Elizabeth Kolph,'. her heart on
fire. She mounted the platform and
flashed forth a speech go full of elec- 1
trlcity mid revolt against the rich that
It carried all the audience before her. .
She put herself at the head of the i
worklngnion nnd led a raid of destruc
tion on the houses and property of
rich Hamburgers. She had such pow
er over the mob that they did her bid
ding like automata. For this she waa
sentenced to prison. I
W!iere Work8 Women Are "If-
' Danbury, Conn., is a town of fac
tories, especially bat factories, and 11
per cent of the workers In these shops
re girls and women. They are well
dressed and well to do, many of them 1
owning their homes. They mingle In t
the best society of the town In fact, '
they are the best society of Danbury. j
In no other place In the world prob
ably are factory women so happy, so
respected and so well to do. They
themselves gay it Is all owing to a wo
men's trades nnion they formed twenty-two
years ago. They stuck fast to
gether and held to their principles and
have always won in case of trouble I
with employers, although there has
been little of this. Often a factory
girl marries her employer or one of his
sous. The Hat Trimmers' union is the
largest, having 1,600 members. Mrs.
Ellen Foots was one of Its organizers 1
and Is Its president I
MARCIA WILLIS CAMPBELL. 1
r'ASHlONABLL MOURNIMQ.
The Mnei Itrerut llii it:m of l.u Mode
on This Miliject.
If things cnulluuu to prourem as
they now appear to lie progressing thu
time Is n it fur distant when hup very
tears will be measured and limited lor
us when we are mourning some dear
one. 1 was brought to a realization of
this an I read the recent dictum of the
powers that be, who prescribe lor
us what we must wear, how long and
what distractions are allowed.
With ponderous nuUumly lliu oracle
says:
"A great change lias come to us by
slow degrees as regards widows'
mourning and the restrictions former
ly In force, and very ren-muuhly so.
Widows are at liberty to spend much
time out of doors, walking, driving
and, In short, anything which may tend
to assuage grief. A widow Is at lib
erty to walk veiled, of course the
next day after the funeral, nnd no dis
respect whatever would bo shown by
availing oneself of these modern rules.
She may wear a bat trimmed with
crape nnd a short walking skirt for
country walks. She may begju to see
her friends, rather Informally, after
six weeks and return visits after an
other week.
"The longest period of mourning Is
two years, during which entirely blnck
Is to be worn one year and nine months
and half mourning three months. Dur
ing the first six months for church and
formal occasions heavy crape bands
are de rlgneur. Often the entire skirt
save for a short distance at, the top
is left iintrlmmed. Courtanld crape Is
Tery expensive, but nothing can equal
It for dignity and beauty, and, If one
can possibly afford It, It gives one at
least one gleam of comfort lu the
knowledge of being well dressed and
that no one can dress better, as the
law of crape Is as fixed as were those
of the Medes" nnd Persians. Ewlorn
cloth Is the one sumptuous material for
first mourning and Is especially af
fected by young widows, while older
women like dull cloth, heavy cash
mere and silk wnrp henrlettn, although
this Inst, being half silk, Is not quite
so dull as the all wool goods. Melrose
Is also a good mnterial for mourulng
garments.
"Young widows may wear mourning
of the deepest kind for one year and
three months, when half mourning can
bo adopted If desired. The widow's
cap Is worn for a year and n day, but
the cap Is now dispensed with If not
desired, or It may be worn In such a
MODISH MOCRNINQ COSTUMES.
way as to appear a becoming head
dress Instead of the particular oiulge
of widowhood. Crape bands on guwni
and capes and also coats are worn for j
six months. I.nwu collars and eulIV '
aro worn for six months. They art,
dainty and universally becoming. i
"After the first six mouths touches
of white may be added to relieve t lie
black. Diamonds may bo worn nftei
six mouths and plulu gold ornaments
luter, say ten months. For evening
wear the bodice should be worn blgb
Ao the throat and the sleeves to the
wrist. In such cases the materials are
silk voiles, wool voiles, grenadines,
nun's veiling. Chliiu crape and soft
dull silks may be used for diuuei
dresses. Young girls should went
black for six months, relieved with
white after two months and hall
mourning after six months. If th
young should wear crape It Is not re
quired that It be worn over three
mouths. Boys should wear black
clothes for three months, with blnck
gloves. Some modern persons put n
band of crape around the left sleeve
and think their duty done In the case
of young boys, but respect for the dead
requires a better showing than this."
But what struck me so forcibly in
the matter of the measurement of one's
grief by costume was the latitude al
lowed the young widow In the mattei
of her bonnets. Heretofore) it has beet
almost obligatory that she wear the
close little bonnet, with a narrow lint
of white crape niching along the edge
This was the Tery badge ol her wid
owhood. "Now, If she wishes, that
may be left off and she cad wear a hat
with trimming on It. This Is really
great Innovation.
.. One costume had the dress made ol
eudora, with the heavy crape In forrr
of one wide panel down the front
' while the waist was entirely of the
crape, ' with a tiny shoulder cape ol
the endora. The dull suede gloves
reached to the elbow. The bat was ol
dull silk covered over a frame. Twc
bunches of black grapes were set or
the hat. The veil waa of a light weight
of waterproof crape and turned around
the bat. down around the throat and
then left to fall nearly to the feet al
the back. OLIVE HARPEU.
Champion Typewriter.
A New Y irk girl. I'ose Fritz, onlj
eighteen years cH, ' again the cham
pion typewriter of the Tn!ted Status
When the typewriting machine was In
vented women were not couder'l
capnble of using It.
Ol'ii FASHION LETTER.
This Is a Season In Which
Elaborate Trimming Prevails.
SA1I.OK HATS A It I''. MODISH SUM,
The I'lnlletl Skirt Predominates, N
Matter What llin Mtilerlnl Mny He,
Whole Illrde Are t'si-d on I'lrlure
Hills.
MufTs this season are not only very
Inrge, but they are covered with the
heads and tails of the animal from
which they are made. Many smart
muffs are decorated with two heads
aud a bunch of tails. Tills means tliut
the stoles worn with them must be
large.
Among the cheaper furs silver point
ed fox and white fox are very buud-
BEVItRH 11MIR SUIT.
some nnd an addition to a plain tailor
made frock.
Many of the new fur sets are lined
with chiffon, which Is generally while.
A tiny plaited edging peeplrg from be
yond n brown or black neck piece or
muff Is very alluring.
A black tulle bon trimmed with Va
lenciennes lace and dotted with tiny
bows of blnck velvet ribbon is a dream
of fluffy loveliness. A touch of this
kind gives an exquisite Parisian finish
to a toilet and a dainty ulr to the sim
plest of dresses. I
The tailored costume Illustrated Is of I
sevres blue cloth. The skirt Is plaited I
nnd, the plaits rounded at the bottom,
where they are cnught with velvet but- I
tons to a band of blue velvet placed !
directly at the bottom of the skirt. The
jacket has a postilion back and bolero
fronts over an embroidered waistcoat
of white cloth.
A NET BODICE.
If you are to be In the fashion this
winter you mnst. be trimmed much
trimmed as to gowns, hats and even
.... ...... t .... I e .., .......... .. ....
i i i ii. . '
VmiKcnsii mm yuur iiicouiu on me
wrong side of nothing.
There Is no getting awny from the
fact that the plaited skirt Is tho fash
lounble one for this season, no mutter
what the mnterial.
Great wide wall-of-troy trimmings
have returned to favor and are made
of velvet, cloth or gathered silk or sat
in ribbon. A stunning black nnd white
checked gown Just over from Paris
has a double skirt with each plaited
flounce trimmed with a wnll-of-troy
design done In black velvet.
fine has to get used to the eccentric
shapes of the hnts this season. When
MKT KTEKINO BODICE.
they are first tried on, one Is seized
with a feeling that they will wear a
mantilla of lace over their heads rath
er than one of these freaky things.
They are an acquired taste. Try on
seven, and the last one does the trick.
Comparatively few of the velvet suits
are trimmed with anything but lace
or braid or buttons. Nothing else
seems to set them off In a way at
once effective nnd perfectly In keeping
with the character of the muterial.
Many of them have no trimming at all,
the rich beauty of the velvet being suf
ficiently attractive.
The evening bodice pictured Is of
spotted net. The low round neck has
a fall of luce headed with Insertion.
The baby bloused fullness Is shirred
Just above tho wnlst line on cords and
trimmed with a luce rullle. The sleeves
have a Jabot effect down the center of
thu short puff.
HEADGEAR FROM PARIS.
A great deal of blue In dull, electric
aud Wedgwood tones Is seen In fash
ionable millinery, giving an entirely
new and rich effect to coiuhlnullons of
A rilBNOn MODKIi.
color which must make their own ap
peal to the artistic taste.
It Is the mode to trim picture hats
with whole birds with wonderful tall
feathers that are all curves, but no
curls. Many of these adornments are
made at the bird factories and for this
reason should not prove obnoxious to
bird lovers. ,
The reds lu fuchsia, Jacqueminot, car
dinal and motor have a vogue nil their
own, aud red hats are used with good
effect by women of taste to top their
frocks of brown and bronze cloth.
Some striking hats In brown are also
trimmed with Jacqueminot and Ameri
can Hen nly roses, while plumage In all
shades of red is considered the height
of fashion.-
Browns lu the russet and tolmcco
tones nre holding their own In the sen
son's hats. Klvallng the browns, olive
and moss green appear lu many of the
most admired French models. Very
charming Paris hats nre in taupe, or
moleskin color, smoke and the metallic
grays, and rich raspberry red, plum,
petunia and Iris and strong dark blues
aro nil seen In the Imported models,
while black hats are growing In de
mand. Then there are the green and
gold shadings, the old rose nuances nnd
the green and brown coiijurlngs nnd
Indeed such subtle and unexpected in
spirations as quite bewilder the seeker
after millinery.
The hat Illustrated Is of flue French
felt In the fashionable smoke tone. The
feathers shade from dark gray to white
at the ends mid are held lu place by n
single red rose.
SOME TIMELY HINTS.
There nre any number 'of round hats
this season nnd many of the plain sail
or shapes that by being tilted u little
to one side are exceedingly pretty, but
the sailor Is now only made use of for
the simplest sort of wear.
As Inst year, a bit of contrasting col
or Is often found on the revere or on
oibl's btbjtoio dbsss.
the waistcoats of even quite - severe
tailor madea. . Plum color, a peculiar
deep blue and certain shades of red
aro used in this fashion on black, blue,
gray and even pale shaded frocks.
AH over braided jackets are to be
much worn with perfectly plain cloth
skirts.
The mushroom shapes of the summer
have survived In a lot of fetching little
turbans, wltk tbelr brims turned down
Instead of up. Tulle and artificial
plumage that can give no offense to
the most sensitive member of the Au
dubon society are the trimmings most
often used on these desirable hats.
The frock sketched Is of a- simple
little evening toilet for a. young girl.
The mnterinl Is dotted pink mulle. In
sertion edged with narrow black vel
vet, put on In a fanciful design, trims
Bklrtand shirred bodice.
JCDIC CHOLLET.
i f
A Touch Down!
Yes, the College Days Cigar has scored a success from
the outset.
It has become the steady, companion of a large pro-
Eoition of the college men, young professional men and
usiness men wherever they have learned of its merits.
It has the unusual quality at a low price to deserve
this to command it.
College Days
CIGAR, 6 for 25c
No such cigar quality has ever been sold in ordinary
cigar stores even at 6c. straight before.
It's only the National Cigar Stands' plan that makes
he College Days possible at this price.
Tswbaal cigars aro mow sold ia the 2,000 Droff Stores hsvrbf
a NsMobsI Ciw Stands Emblem in tk window.
STOKE & FEICHT DRUG CO.
MAIN
The Proof of the
Flour is in the Loaf
KING MIDAS Flour proves every time. No bad luck
no poor baking. You don't have to be an expert
cook to get creamy, flaky, ta$ty loaves of bread.
Use a regular recipe
and your every batch
will be a perfect
success.
Makes bread
longer it tastes better and affords more real
nouFishment--it means more bread and better bread
to every barrel. The extra half cent a poupd enables
os to make KING. MIDAS Flour the best flour .that
it is possible for anyone to make. .
Sold by Quality Qrocers Everywhert.
SH4WE BROTHERS CO., PhffaefofpMa
Strongest in tit World
LIFE Insurance in the strong companies will be
better, more desirable, easier to sell in the
future This is particularly true of The
Equitable combining as it does, greatest strength,
promptness in meeting death claims and largest
dividend earning and paying ability.
4
Its Pittsburg Agency, with the richest field in
the world, and doing a larger business than
most entire companies, offers unusual
facilities to men of standing, ability and
integrity.
EDWARD A. WOODS, Manager
Equitable Floor, Frick Building, Pittsburg
JOB WORK
of all kinds
THE
J
STRF.F.T.
(but less flour)
of bread
FlLtBUJUS
that keeps sweet and fresh
promptly done at
STAR OFFICE.
I.elsO