household atters Deep Breathing. Depp breathing is a great aid to beau ty. To the woman overburdened with flesh it is absolutely essential, as the increased amount of oxygen greatly augments Alie consumption of waste material, it must be pure air, how ever, to have the desired effect. Not one person In ten breathes correctly, nd not one woman in a hundred breathes normally, the respiration .varying with every change of mental state or physical condition; grief, de pression, fatigue, all have their influ ences in lowering the amount of oxy- gen that goes into the system, and it is a rare thing for a woman to use her lungs to the best possible advantage, unless she has the definite and special Instruction In breathing incident to the vocal training of singers and elo cutionists. New Haven Register. Modern Otrll Expensive. ' "The girls miss a lot of fun by hav ing such high and mighty notions now adays," remarked the old New Yorker. "It's simply out. of the question for a young fellow getting from twenty to thirty dollars a week to take a girl to the theatre or opera often, when it costs him a good part of his week 8 salary each time he does it If her young man doesn't get orchestra seats the girl of to-day thinks him mean; If he doesn't bring her a bunch of vio lets as big as her head he 'doesn't know what's what;' if he makes her ride home (a the trolley instead of calling a cab 'her gown is ruined,' and if he doesn't take her to supper in one of the swell restaurants he isn't worth knowing. "Now, when I was young a girl was eatisfied with balcony seats seventy five cents or a dollar. After the thea tre, as a matter of course, every one climbed Into the omnibuses tnat were backed up to the sidewalk In front of all the theatres. Then, of course, here was the Ice cream treat afterward no one thought of ordering anything else and there were no tips to waiter, either; the man who waited on you was as good as you were yourself; he would have thrown your money In your face If you had Insulted him with a fee. "Well, we used to take our best girls to the theatre two or three times a week in those days, and modern young women have only themselves to blame for the infrequency of their theatre In Imitations." New York Press. Toqnes Still "En Reg!" In Paris. Toques are not omitted from the se lection or new models on show. I bave seen some pretty ones with wide Oat-topped crowns narrowing in ineir base, and brims turned up and shelv ing somewhat outwards. Covered plain with velvet, they are sometimes ren dered very ornate by having a wide band of handsome galon sewn on the facing of the brim. Others have full beret crowns. One of the former is covered with moss green velvet with a broad galon worked with sky-blue chenille on a glace foundation of the two colors. An Indent is cut in the right side of the brim on each of which the galon is curved round shell-forms. Between this opening In the brim and the crown nestles a bird the plumage of which is dark, with little touches of white. It Is entirely of a fanciful order and the tail is of white goura. Another toque ' with a full beret crown is built up of a deep mordore brown velvet and trimmed with wings of a copper hue set outside the brim at the back and on the left side. Both these toques are raised at the back on a narrow bandeau concealed by bows of ribbon. , Less Importance is given to the eachepeigne than-in the late summer models, and I am Inclined to think that the fashion of piling up the hair very high on the top of the head will help to bring about a further change in this respect Millinery Trade Review. Health Baneful to Girls. "Much money too much money," said a New Yorker who has known the town for fifty years, "is more harmful to our young women than It Is to our young men, though the Lord knows, It is bane enough to our young men. It Is a different sort of harm, though, to the girls it unsexes them. The effect is not quite so bad In the lesser cities because they have less money, and the atmosphere is clearer. But in Kew York and the New York girls well, when I think of the con trast between some of the girls I know here and their grandmothers I used to know It makes me sick at heart for the generations who are to be mothered by these girls, If, Indeed, they ever be come mothers. "I am speaking now of the really rich girls who have all the money to spend that they want For example, I know one girl of twenty-five who looks as If she were forty, and she has $25,000 a year income. Not a great deal as Incomes go in New York, per haps, but a good deal for one girl to spend on herself. This girl goes the pace of a man, except that she Is of good moral character, as we under stand that In a woman. She has her horses and her dogs and her yacht not a very large one, but large enough and she has the manners of a man, and very nearly the masculine voice. "Does she 'gamble? Of course. I flon't think I know a rich young wom an who won't wager something or other- Tits beginners, . and the very sensitive, won't bet money, but they'll bet what costs money. Tills girl was unusually handsome wben sue was sixteen, but she shows ouly traces of it now. "I know another with $12,000 a year allowance from her mother who spends it all on her own pleasure, and she has become as coarse as a washerwoman and talks like a teamster. I know any quantity of girls who swear profanely, I heard a rich society woman, old enough to know better, curse at her coaebman one night in front of the Metropolitan Opera House. If the coachman had used the language that lady did, he would have been arrested for disorderly conduct. I don't say that the money made that woman vul gar and profane, but I know that her mother would have cut her tongue out before she would have laid it to such language. "And the stories they tell. Good Lord, I've sat at a supper table in one of the finest houses in Fifth avenue with millions of money around me and heard young men and young women tell stories and howl with delight over them that would redden the cheeks of a Carrara marble statue. I don't say the money did it, but I do say that I know many young women who don't have money In excess, and they are not that kind. "The girl who has money must have something to do, and as the ordinary domestic occupations ace closed to her she must go to social dlvertlsements to keep her mind and body engaged. The trend of society is to excess of some sort no matter what is Aom it must be done to the limit and, naturally the girls fall into the customs of the people of whom they form a part. It they like horses they are not satisfied with a pair to drive and possibly one to ride, and have a man to look after them, but -they want to own a drove and get in among them themselves, and talk horse and smell horse and act horse. With dogs It is the same, and a dog-girl will talk about the breeding of the animals and their disorders and their points In a way fit only for pro fessional fanciers and veterinaries. If they take up athletics the same policy Is pursued, and the girls are not satis fled unless they out-man the men in all the courses of physical exercise and training. "Money gives our young women a mannish independence that ordinary girls do not have, and they have no do mestic counterbalance. The result is that many of our rich girls as a rule are not the best material for wives and mothers, and, as they cannot be husbands and fathers, they occupy a middle ground, which is unnatural and undesirable. If I had daughters with money to excess I should not rear them in the New York atmosphere, nor should they have unlimited means, even if I had to put the money in the hands of trustees and allow them only a reasonable portion of their income. There is nothing better in this world than a good woman good in mind and heart and body, and when she has the means to spread her goodness among those who are not so fortunate as she, then she becomes the supremo earthly good she is good, and the money is good. But when she becomes dewom nnized by her money, then the woman Is bad, and the money is bad, and we have in New York more dewomanizcrt young women than anywhere on earth, not excepting London. There they nre worse than ours, but there are not so many of them. Dewonianlzation, as I express It, does not mean immorality; but there are qualities in a woman which make her much less attractive as a real woman than a lack of virtue, and a woman may be' vicious although she be virtuous. I don't say that our rich New York young women nre vicious, but I do say that the poet did not have one of these I have been talking about in mind when he wrote: A Lady with a Lamp shall stand la the great history of the land, A noble type of good, Heroic woman hood. New York Press. A combination automobile hood and veil Is a thing of luxury. It is a chiffon hood with a veil iu front, to be worn over a small hat. Gloves match the costume whenever possible, but the difficulty of exactly matching all shades has kept white ai:d black gloves in fashion. The daintiest of guimpes arc those of handkerchief linen with Hedebo embroidery. This is the latest Scandi navian openwork embroidery. For street wear nothing Is better than tan gloves. One may take her choice between one clasp or two in short gloves, both being in good style. Real Valenciennes is not prohibitive. and lasts a lifetime. Point and duch ess are expensive at first, but a little goes a long way, and makes the plain est gown eregaut. Nothing is more acceptable for gifts than lace or embroidery. The collar and cuff sets in the little French shops and iu special departments of the stores art very tempting. To Warm the Feet. Better than hot bottle is a flannel bag for your feet. Make it after the style of an ordinary pillow case and you will find It a great comfort, keep ing your feet and legs very warm in bed, says the Chicago News. Air the Ctotliea, After blankets, sofa pillows, draper. !es of all descriptions, winter clothing, and In fact all the articles of use and wear tuot have been stored In cam phor or moth-proofing substances dur ing the siimmer nre first taken from their coverings they should be be hung In the oppn ulr mid sunshine for at least two days. That precaution will insure the destruction of any germs that may have summered In tbeni. Sponnlua; Cloth. Cloth for women's wear should al ways be shrunken before being made up. This Is done to shrink it and to make it proof against' ratnspots. To shrink cloth spread it out on a long table, but do not open the folds of the material. Cover it with pieces of mus lin made very wet with warm water; then roll the cloth up, rolling the wet muslin in with it. This will bring all the cloth In contact with the wet mus lin. Allow this to remain rolled up for several hours, or a better way would be to do this at night and leave rolled up until morning, when it Is to be opened out and pressed on both sides of the fold until dry, remembering that the right side of the cloth Is al ways inside the fold. Ladles' Home Journal. Vie of the Flat Iron. In making garments, and especially dresses, the flat Iron must be used from start to Mulsh. In no other way can a satisfactory result be obtained In making a cloth, or other nice gown. Every Utile seam must be opened ami pressed out If you are pressing a skirt (and skirts need this attention not only when new, but also during their entire existence), place It right side down over a skirt board, smoothing it very evenly up on the board, and laying carefully any pleats or tucks. When the pleats have to be basled Into place, use very tine thread, ns u coarse thread Is apt to leave its mark In the pressing. Now place a chair or sland under the skirt board to support the rest of the skirt, and tills will prevent It from dragging the part to be pressed out of place. Let the iron be a moderately heavy one, and, after laying a clean wet cloth over the part to be pressed, press (do not iron) your garment; that is, do not rub the Iron up and down and cross wise, but, when changing it from place to place, lift it. Move the iron frequently, or It will leave the Impress of Its shape upon the cloth. Slender Irons are re quired when pressing waists. A seam pressor may be made of a piece of curtain pole, or broom stick. It should be ten or twelve inches long, rolled evenly In flannel and covered with mus lin, and Is a great convenience for pressing sleeves. Ladles' Home Jour nal. Crumpets Mix Into a stiff batter one egg, one-half teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, one pint of milk, and one and one-half pints of flour with which two teaspoonfuls of baking powder have been sifted, n-.id bake on top of range in greased mulliu rings on a hot, greased griddle. Graham Gems Sift together one cup ful each of while and Graham flour, one and one-half teaspoonful of baking powder, one teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a cupful of sugar. Then add one egg nnd one cupful of sweet milk. Rye or oatmeal may be sub stituted for the Graham flour. Chtcken Salad Sandwiches - Bake chow paste In Jong slender shapes, like eclairs, cut narrower and shorter; when cold split apart on the ends and one side and fill with chicken salad; put the top back in place, after inserting a celery plume at each end. Garnish the serving dish with celery leaves and pim-olas or olives. Hoecake-Take a very stiff batter of water and cornmeal. adding a pinch of salt, urease a thick Iron griddle very sparingly, and when hot put the batter on in a large cake about an Inch thick. Smooth and cook slowly. When cooked on one side for about ten minutes turn carefully and cook on the other side. Serve whole, letting each one break off a portion. Fig Cake One and a half cups sugar. one-quarter cup butter, one-half cup of sweet milk, one and one-half cups flour, one teaspoonrul baking powder, one half cup corn starch, whites of three eggs well beaten: bake In two lavers nd fill with fig Ailing; chop one pound of figs, add one-half cup sugar and one cup water, stew until soft and smooth. spread between the layers and frost the top of the cake with white frost ing. Spiced Rolls Dissolve a yeast cake In one cupful of boiling water and one-half cupful of niilk, and add flour as for bread mixture. When quite light, having set to, "rIse,H mix in four eggs, two-thirds of a cup of sugar, one-half cupful of melted butter, a tea spoonful of salt and sufficient flour to knead. When light roll into a tbln sheet, brush with butter, dredge with cinnamon, sugar and sprinkle with cur rants. Roll up, cut into rounds anil bake In a moderately bot oven foi bout twenty minutes. 11I New York City. Unquestionably the Eton makes one of the favorite coats of the winter, and here is one that in cludes a vest and which is so designed as to mean genuine warmth and com fort as well as Jauntluess is style. The model is made of broadcloth with trimming of velvet and handsome Sevan Blouit Coat 4923. buttons and is stitched with holding Bilk, but it is adapted to all the sea son's suitings, while, aguiu, combina tions can be used if preferred. The vest of one material and the coat of another always are effective while the revers can be faced for their entire length Instead of being made with the trimming portions, If better liked. The sleeves are absolutely novel and ex ceedingly smart, the (lure cuffs ren dering them exceptionally becoming. The Eton Is made with the fronts. the back ami the vest. The back is full length and the fronts are cut off above the waist line ami the vest Is ex tended slightly below at the front. The fitting is accomplished by means of shoulder and under-urm seams and the closing Is made by buttoning the vest over in double breasted style. The neck Is finished with a flat collar and the fronts with the 'prettily shaped revers. The sleeves are made with the full upper portions and plain deep cuffs, that are finished with the roll over ones of contrasting material. The quantity of material required Fancy Braids In Meadwear. Chenille and other fancy braid will certainly be used this winter, b".t more for making toques than hats. Cheullie tissue is also utilized to cover small hats and toques and to make soft beret crowns. A very pretty small hat has one of these crowns built of crimson chenille tissue and velvet brim to match and for trimming some large velvet anemones. In other models the chenille tissue la used for the eutlrx for the medium size Is' four yards twenty-one, two yards forty-four or one and five-eighth yards fifty-two Inches wide. Nino Gnreil Pleated Skirt. The pleated skirt shows vnriatlons so many that it would almost seem that no limit to its possibilities Is to be found. Illustrated Is one of the newest and lutest that Is graceful and attractive, both In the round and the walking length, and which is ex ceedingly well liked. The model is made of chiffon broadcloth with trim ming of silk bands, the pleats being stitched flat with beldlng silk, but almost all the materials of the season are sufficiently light in weight to be quite correct. Broadcloth Is always a favorite but Venetian clolh and vari ous oilier weaves of the material also are much seen, while again the chiffon velvets and moire velours and the long list of silks are equally In vogue. The trimming allows of much variation, and while such bands of silk as these are fashionable, there are almost num berless bandings and braids which can be purchased by the yard. The skirt is made In nine gores and Is laid In a combination of narrow box pleats and backward turning single pleats, two box pleats meeting at the front while single pleats meet at the back, where the closing is made in visibly. The quantity of material required for the medium size Is twelve yards Design By Mat Mahtos Gored Flatted Skirt 5178. twenty-seven, seven yards forty-four of fifty-two Inches wide when material has figures or nap; ten and one-hnlf yards twenty-seven, six and one-half yards forty-four or five and one-quar-ter yards fifty-two inches wide when It has not, with twelve yards of trim ming. shnpe interwoven with ribbons. Mil linery Trade Review. TOoman'e Achievements. Every sens-on we are asked to do something fresh with our figures, says a writer in Lady's Pictorial. Either we are m&de to elongate or compress them, to wear our shoulders square or sloping, to be slim or plump, to have marked hips or to be of the configura tion of the deal board. Yet we always manage to look elegant Listeners. . Three little crickets. sleek nmUblnck, I Whose fyi'H with mischief a-llstcned, Climbed up tin one another's back And at a keyhole listened. The topmost one fried out, "Oho I 1 hear two people speaking ! I enn't unite see them yet. and so I'll Just continue peeking." Soon Dot and grandma he could see -Tea-party they were pluying ; And as he llHlened closely, he Distinctly heard Dot saying: "This pretty little tnhle here Will do to spread the treat on; And 1 will Ret a cricket, dear, For you to put your feet on." The cricket tumbled down with fright I "Kim for your life, mv brother" ! . Fly. Ily !" lie scudded out of sight ; And so did both the others. Carolyn Wells, la St. Nicholas. The Gams of Push and Pull. This Is a very simple game and one that will afford good exerclBe for the legs, waist, sides, back, arms In fact, the entire body. Let two girls or boys take bold of each other by the arms and each endeavor to push the other. A chalk line drawn on the floor a lit tle distance behind each will make the game more interesting. Each en deavors to push the other over this mark. When tired of this, says the Washington Star, change it to a pul ling contest, drawing the line between you. Try to pull each other across It You will find it splendid' fun and it will bring color to your cheeks and develop your whole body. Valuable Information. At a county fair a machine which bore a sign reading "How to Make Your Trousers Last," occupied a prom inent position In the grounds and at tracted much attention. A man who stood gaping before it was told by the exhibitor, a person with a long black moustache, a minstrel stripe shirt and ninety-four-carat diamond In a red cravat, that for one cent deposited In the slot machine would dispense lis valuable sartorial advice. The man dug the required coin from the depths of a deep pocket and dropped it In the slot. Instantly the machine deliver ed a card on which was neatly print ed: "Make your coat and waistcoat first." Harper's Weekly. Uncle Eph to His Son. Yo' schoolln' lasted fo' year; yo' work'll last till ye die. Dat deeplomah is mighty pretty, but hit ain't a free meal-ticket. Big words doan't ketch no 'possums. Ef eddicashun makes ye wear sto' clothes, hit oughter make ye able to pay fer 'em. I doan't see no difference In de kind ob exercise 'twlxt de hoe and de gowl luf stick. ' What I cayn't undnhstnnd am dls: ef de books do do boy so much good, why do he drop 'em soon ez do skool stops? Hit doan't bodder me how much de loafer knows. I only knows he's a loafer. I'd like to see ye try some ob dem g'ometry lines wid er plow In de corn field. He Went to West Point. Lieutenant Loyall Farragut, one of the ofllcers of the Military Order of the Loyal Legion and a son of the naval hero Admiral Farragut, has the double honor of having fought in the army and navy both In the civil war, and it is an interesting fact that he won his commission In the army through a challenge by his father when the latter's fleet was In the Mis sissippi and about to pass up to Port Hudson. Jxnall, then a lad of about 12 years of nge, had been Importuning his father that he might be sent to West Point, when the old admiral re plied: "I don't know how that would do; I'm not so sure whether you could stand fire." "Oh, yes, father, I could do that," said the boy. "Very well, my boy, I'll try you. Come up with me here. The old navy hero and his son went up together Into the maintop, and there they both remained till Port Hudson was passed. The lad never flinched while the shot and shell flew thick and fast about him. Then the father said: "Very well, my boy, that will do; you shall go to West Point" And the boy was made a cadet and rose to be a lieutenant, after which he resigned. The Horrible Examples. Little Clara Cough-lt-off felt very much abused, And coughed to make her mama think that she was badly used. She found it rather hard at first, but practice made it easy. Till she could cough as good as though she really was diseasy! She coughed against her medicine and said it made her sick; She coughed because they wouldn't give her back the spoon to lick. She coughed until she had to cough and went "Cu-huh, Cu-hoo!" When any one suggested that she tried to cough like you. Little Tommy Try-to-cry had all the world could buy And everything besides, except a good excuse to cry. And so he cried at breakfast-time be cause it came so soon, He cried at luncheon also, because supper came at noon. He cried again at dinner-time be cause it made him weep; He cried because his bed was bad and made him go to sleep. He cried because he cried, and crying made his eyes so dim; He cried because he saw you cry and thought you looked like him. Little Polly Pout-about was always finding fault; She didn't like her milk because the sea had too much salt. She didn't like the Bun because it wouldn't shine at night; She didn't like the snow because It made the ground so white. She bated maple-sugar because lem ons were so sweet; She hated custard-pie because her goldfish had no feet. She didn't like bad little boys because a hen has fur; She doesn't like you either,, as you sometimes look at her. Edmund Vance Cooke. ' Where to Go. . A correspondent sends to the Boston Transcript a list from an did western newspaper, suggesting where different sorts of persons ought to go: Singers to Alto, Ga. Lawyers to Fee, Pa, Bakers to Cakes, Pa. Jewelers to Gem, Ind. Babies to Brest, Mich. Smokers to Weed, Cal, The sleepy to Gap, Pa. Printers to Agate, Col. The idle to Rust Minn. Cranks to Peculiar, Mo. , Poets to Parnassus, Pa. Deadheads to Gratis, O. Florists to Rose Hill, 10. Thieves to Sao City, Io. Mendicants to Begg, La. ' Perfumers to Aroma, HI. Small men to Bigger, Ind. : Paupers to Charity, Kan. Actors to Star City, Ark. Plumbers to Faucett, Mo. , Old maids to Antiquity, O. Tramps to Grubtown, Pa. Bankers to Deposit, N. Y. Wldower3 to Widows, Ala. Apiarists to Beevllle, Tex. Farmers to Corning, N. Y. Brokers to Stockville, Nev. Hunters to Deer Trail, Col. Hucksters to Yelville, Ark. Prizefighters to Box, Kan. Lovers to Spoonville, Mich. Debtors to Cash City, Ark. Chiropodists to Cornie, Ark. Carpenters to Sawtooth, Ind. Politicians to Buncombe, Va. Sewing girls to Scissors, Col. . Cobblers to Shoe Heel, N. C. Grocers to Coffeyville, Knn. Sports to Race Track, Mont. Dry goods men to Calico, Cal. The "boys" to Midway, S. C. "Crooks" to Dodge City, Kan. Theosophlsts to Mystic, Conn. Gardeners to Artichoke, Minn. Swimmers to Neversink, N. Y. Poulterers to Hatchvllle, Ga. Puzzle fiends to Riddloville, Ga. Physicians to Doctortown, Ga. Whist players to Cavendish, Ind. Society climbers to Tip Top, Va, School teachers to Lamed, Kan. Drummers to Modest Town, Va. The hairless to Bald Knob, Ark. Entomologists to Bug Hill, N. C. Peregrlnators to Footville, Wis. Pork men to to Ham's Prairie, Mo. Druggists to Balsam Lake, Wis. Busebail players to Ball Ground, Ga. Reigning beauties to Bellecentre, O. Political orators to Stumptown, Pa, Birds at Work. Arriving by train at Gifu about 8 p. m., we chartered what our 'rtklsha coolies called a number one boat, which proved to be a comfortable houseboat, for which the usual charge Is 5 yen. In a few minutes the artis tic Japs had made it quite festive with matting, red and white drap eries, and paper lanterns (Gifu Is noted for its paper lanterns), and we rowed up the stream to meet the six fishing boats, thankful that here was no moon to spoil sport. After ,wait Ing for some time in the shadow of a cliff, while the boatmen beguiled the time by smoking their funny little doll's pipes (klseru), we saw lights In the far distance, and soon the boats were abreast of us, and we drifted, down the river with them to watch this strange method of catching fish, which has existed for some 1200 years or longer. Each cormorant (u-kai) wears at the base of its neck a metal ring, left loose enough to enable the bird to make its supper off the small unsaleable fish that it swallows, but too' tight to al low the large fish to pass below. A blazing torch is projected from the forepart of the boat to attract the fish, and then the master boatman lowers his team of 12 trained birds in to the water, holding each bird sep arately by a Btring. The ungainly birds immediately set to work con nmore, darting hither and thither ex citedly in search of prey, and on this occasion they caught so many flsh, that we feared some of them would choke outrisght! But when the mas ter boatman saw that one was gorged, he skilfully shortened that particular line of string, lifted the bird on board, squeezed out the fish, and before we realized what he had done, the bird was again at work in the water. Cal cutta Empress.