The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, November 02, 1904, Image 6

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    . Kotk.-1Ii following article has
been widely published and li on of
th most remarkable illustration of
the value of careful mnrshnlling and
analysis of fuel In presenting a tub
Jact to the public.
LEVELER9.
Million of Whisky, Tobscee and
Cofffe.
The Crentor made all things, we be
lieve. .
If ao, Ho must liave mndo these.
AA'e know Mint Ho mndo food nnd
water for, and nlr nnd sunshine, but
Why Whisky, Tobneeo nnd Coffee?
They are here sure enough and each
frrformlng lta work.
There must be some great plan be
kind It all; the thoughtful ninn seeks
to understand something of that plan
and thereby to Judge these artlelea for
their true worth.
Let us not sny "bnd" or "good" with
out taking testimony.
There nre times nnd conditions when
It cerlnlnly seems to the ensunl observ
er thnt these stimulant narcotics nre
renl blessings.
Right there Is the nmbusb thnt con
ceals a "killing" enemy.
One rnn slip into the hnlilt of either
whisky, tobacco or coffee easy cnouuli,
but to "untangle" Is ofteti a fenrful
atruuvle.
It seems plain thnt there are clrenm
atnnees when the nnrcotle effect of
these poisons is for the moment bene
ficial, but the fenrful argument ngnlnst
them Is thnt seldom ever does one find
steady user of either whisky, cof
fee or tobacco free from disease of
ome kind.
Certninly powerful elements In their
effect on the humnn rnce.
It Is a matter of dally history testi
fied to by literally millions of people,
thnt Whisky, Tobneeo and Coffee nre
mlllng, promising, beguiling friends
On the start, but always false ns hell
Itself In the end. una- Uicy gei mm
Li, -id enough to show their strength,
they Insist upon governing nnd drive
the victim steadily towards ill health
In some form; If permitted to continue
to rule, they will not let up until phy
Icnl nnd mentnl ruin sets In.
A man under that spell (and "under
the spell" Is correct, of any one of
these drugs, frequently assures him
elf and his friends, "VLy, I enn leave
elf any time I wnnt to. I did quit Yor
week Just to show I could." It Is a '
ure mark of the slave when one gets
to that stage. He wiggled through a
week lighting every day to break the
pell, was finally whipped, and began
bis slavery nil over again.
The slave (Coffee slnve is well ns
Tobneeo nnd Whisky) dnily reviews bis
condition, sees perfectly plnin the
stendy encroachments of dlsense, how
the nerves get wenker dny by dny and
demand the drug thnt seems to smile
nd offer relief for a few minutes and
then lenve the disenscd condition
plainer to view than ever and grow
ing worse. Many tlniPS tho Coffeo
slave realizes thnt he is between two
fires. lie feels bad If lie leaves off,
and a little worse if he drinks and a!
Iowa the effect to wear off.
So It goi on inmi iiii.v n day. Every
eight the struggling victim promises
himself that he will break the hnblt
and next dny when ho feels a little
bnd ins he Is quite sure to), breaks,
cot the hnblt, but his own resolution.
It Is nenrly always n tough fight, with
disaster abend sure If ;ho hnblt wins.
There hnve been hundreds of thou
sands of people driven to their graves
. through disease brought on by coffeo
drinking alone, and It Is quite certain
thnt more humnn misery Is caused by
coffee and tobneeo thnn by whisky, for
the two first are more widely used,
nd more hidden nnd Insidious In the
effect on nerves, heart and other vital
organs, and are thus unsuspected un
til much of the dangerous work Is
done.
Now, Render, whnt Is yonr opinion
s to tho real use the Creator hns for
.these things? Tnke a look nt the ques
tion from this point of view.
There Is a Inw of Nature and of Na
ture's God that things slowly evolve
from lower planes to higher, a sturdy,
tendv nnd dignified advnnce townrd
snore perfect things In both the Thy
leal and Spiritual world. The pon
derous tread of evolutionary develop
ment Is fixed by tho Infinite and will
not be quickened out of natural law
by any of man's methods.
Therefore we see many (lustrations
honing bow nature checks too rapid
advance. Illinois rnlses phenomenal
crops of corn for two or three years.
If she continued to do so every year
ber farmers would advnnce In wealth
far beyond those of other sections or
countries. So Nature Interposes a bar
very three or four years and brings
on a "bad year."
Here we see the leveling influence
at work. '
A man Is prosperous In bis business
for a number of years and grows rich.
Then Nature sets the "leveling Influ
ence" at work on him. Some of bis
Investments lose, bo becomes luxuri
ous nnd lazy. Perhaps It Is whisky, to
bacco, coffee, women, gambling, or
, some other form. Tbe Intent and pur
pose Is to level hlin. Keep him from
evolving too far ahead of tho masses.
A nation becomes prosperous and
great like ancient Rome. It no leveling
Influence set In she would domlnnte
the world perhaps for all time. But
Pome Nature sets bur army of "level
era" at work. Luxury, over eating and
drinking, licentiousness, waste and ex
travagance, Indulgences of all kinds,
then comet tbe wreck. Sure, Sure,
Sure.
Tut law of tbe unit Is tbe law of the
oia us. Man goes through tbe same
process. Weakness (lu childhood),
gradual growth of strength, energy,
thrift, ' probity, prosperity, wealtb,
comfort, ease, relaxation, self-Indulgence,
luxury, Idleness, waste, do
iMucbery, disease, and the wreck foj-
lows. The "leyetMs" are in tne bnsnca
long the pathway of every successful
man and woman and they bag the ma
jority. Only now and then can a man stand
out against these "levelers" and bold
his fortune, fame and health to the
nd.
So the Creator has us for Whisky,
Tobacco and Coffee to level down th
successful ones and those who show
signs of being successful, and keep
them hack In the race, so thnt the great
''field" (tho masses) may not be left
too far behind.
And yet we must admit that same all
wise Creator has placed It lit the pow
er Of man to stand upright, clothed In
the armor of a clean cut, steady mind
and say unto himself, "I decline to ex
change my birthright for a mess of
pot age.
"I will not deaden my senses, weak
en my grip on affairs nnd keep myself
cheap, common nnd behind In fortune
nd fame by drugging with whisky,
tobneeo or coffee; life Is too short. It
Is hard enough to win the good things,
without any sort of handicap, so n ninn
Is certainly n 'fool tinder' when he
trades strength, health, money, nnd the
pood th'iius thnt come with power, for
the half-asleep condition of the "drug
per' with the certainty of sl-kness and
disease ahead."
It Is a matter each Individual must
decide for himself. He can be a lend
er nnd semi gVi If ho will, or he enn
go along through life a (imaged clown,
a chenp "hewer of wood or carrier of
wnter."
Certnin It Is thnt vV the (ircnt
Fr.thcr of us nil i'"-- ' -t sem to
"mind" If some of - children nre
fiKlish nnd stupid, lit seems to select
others (perhaps those He Intends for
some special work I and allows them to
be threshed nnd castigated most fear
fully by these "levelers."
If fl mnn tries flirting wllh these lev-
( elers awhile, nnd gets a few slaps ns
a hint, he hnd better tnke the hint or
a good solid blow will follow.
When n man tries to live upright,
clenn, thrifty, sober, nn.l umlrngged,
the Creator Intends he should, happi
ness, health nr.d peace seeiu to come
to him. Hoes it pay?
This article was written to set peo
ple thinking, to roue the "Cod with
in," for every highly organised man
and woman has .line when they feel
a something calling from within for
them to press 'o the front nud "be
about the Father's business;" don't
mistake It; the park of the Infinite
is there and It pays In every way,
benlth, happiness, pence, and even
worldly prosperity, to break off the
habits nnd strip clenn for tho work
tut out for us.
It hns been the business it the writ
er to provide a practical nnd easy way
for people to break away from the
coffee hnblt nnd be assured of a return
to health nr.d all of the good things
thnt brings, provided the abuse has
not gone too far, and even then the
enses where the body hns been rebuilt
on a basis of strength and health run
L.to the thousands.
It Is nn easy and comfortable step to
stop coffee Instantly by having well
mnde Postnm Fond Coffee served rich
and hot with good cream, for the col
or nnd flavor is there, but none of the
cuff cine or other nerve destroying el
ements of ordinary coffee.
On the contrary, the most powerful
rebuilding elements furnished by Na
ture nre In Postum and they quickly
set nbout repairing the damage. Sel
dom is It more than two days after
the change is mnde before the old
stomach or bowel troubles or com
plnints of kidneys, heart,, head or
nerves show unmistakable evidence of
getting better and ten days' time
changes things wonderfully.
Literally millions of brain working
Americans to-day use Postum, having
found the value and common sense In
the change.
C. AV. TOST.
Royal Fads,
The rulers of Europe at present nre
not so much engrossed In ruling that
they have not time to Indulge with
the rest of tha world In "fads." King
Carlos of Portugal is said to be
specially fond of the camera, and
spends a cw!derable part of his roy
al leisure In taking "snap shots" of
things. King Emmanuel of Italy has
a particular fancy for automobiles, a
liking shared also, It may be added,
by President Ixmhet of France, the
Shah of Persia and Prince Ferdinand
of Bulgaria. The Queen of Roumaula
Is a great collector of rare books, as
well as being a poot herself. Tho
Prince of Monaco ia an export In
deep sea life and phenomena, and
Queen Wilhelmlna of Holland boasts
tho finest collection of old lace In
Europe, But most curious of all. Is
tho specialty of the venerable King
of Denmark, the collection of bird's
eggs. His present collection Is said
to be worth $75,000, and it may In
time go to some museum. Leslie's
AA'eokly.
Blame the Parent.
It has long been a debatable ques
tion whether heredity or environment
is ajpsponsible for the depravity and
degeneracy of children. In either
case It Is the parent and not the
child upon whom the responsibility
should rest. If the Iowa Juvenile
court law will compel parents to
look after their children better, In
stcad of hauling them into court on the
least provocation and asking, that
they bo sent to Jail or the reform
school. It will have done such a great
and good work that all the omissions
of the legislators in the framing of
the law will bo forgiven and forgot
ten. About thirty thousand horses ire
said to be slaughtered for their meat
in Pari each year. Tbe carcass of a
good hor yields about 309 pounds of
meat, which can be eaten by those
who do not care what they do.
Putting Children to Bed Early.
Don't let your children alt up Inte.
Tou need and might to have some time
to yourself, and lt'wlll be bnd for the
children, a well as for you, If you
dim't get It. Get your thoughts direct
ed into fresh channels, or in time you
will find It difficult to talk of anything
except the house tha children. Ameri
can Queen.
New Feature In Belts.
Tho newest In belts nud tieckwenr la
white linen or canvas, embroidered In
gold nnd silver threads, the quaint de
signs er ,1; ''' ci I by moan of padding.
All thl in the finest band work ud la
correspond! n ely expensive.
An odd feature ot' the belt Is Its
buckle, which closely resembles a pho
tograph frame. being exceedingly
large, oblong nud covered 'lu the em
broidered linen.
For the Hands.
The exigencies of domestic llfo make
mnny people treat their hands as If
they were insensitive things. The fol
lowing simple rules mny bring each
sufferer solid comfort. The bunds arc
to be rubbed at nii-'.it with a mixture
of lanoHne, one part, and sweet al
mond oil, three parts. Large gloves
of kid or leaiher nre thou to be worn,
says the Kansas City Journal.
For washing the bands the best sonp
and warm v. at'-r must be used, and it Is
preferable to c-unloy a lather. Rinsing
should always to'.iow a lather.
Dressing Sacque Farties.
The bachelor girl gives little dress
lug sacque parties. Her guests come In
shirtwaists and separate skirts, but the
bachelor girl wears a dre-ssing sacque
nnd silk petticoat. This sounds odd.
But, really, the dressing sacque is a
marvel in frills ami Is made of the fin
est lawn and needlework and the silk
petticoat is a wonderful thing In ruf
fles and lace. It can cost anything up
to $50. Of course, with the silk petti
coat the bachelor girl wears a bewitch
ing pair of French-heeled slippers and
her hair Is done low, In girlish fashion,
with a bow of ribbon at the back.
The Too Kind Mother.
Too little selfishness on the part of
a mother Is apt to beget too much of It
In her children and her husband, says
The California Ladies' Magazine. Per
petual surreuder of her rights and
privileges bree'.i corresponding Indif
ference and neglect from the family
without their realizing It. She has so
long yielded all the now dresses to ber
daughters that they think anything
will do for her.
"She doesn't care much about going
out, anyway. There's no use asking
her to take a ride or to go to the pic
nic; she's used to staying at borne."
About French Beauty.
Marcel Prevot, the well known
French novelist and dramatist, has
raised a storm of protest In Paris by
making the following assertion:
French women nre never beautiful
now. Many of them are pretty, and one
never sees a plain Parlslenne, but their
prettlness Is due to their toilets. They
have engaging looks that are well
manipulated. Color comes and goes,
but their maids can fetch and carry it."
M. Provost declares that there Is no
such thing in Paris as masculine beau
ty. He says ho agrees with Taino,
that men are extremely ugly nowadays,
and that if In an assemblage of men a
really handsome Frenchman were to
appear It would cause unpleasant com
ment, and the man would have to go
home and disfigure himself in order to
retain a good reputation.
Jewel Don'ts.
Don't set sapphires in gold If your
hair be black or gray try silver, Ivory,
green, gray or while enamel.
Don't grudge the expense of nn ex
periment look upon It aa tho price of
a losson. Tho best lessons are those we
give ourselves.
Don't fall to seek the sapphire If
your eyes approach the "violet" of ro
mance the association with the Bame
will make the eye seem deoper and
more gem-llko.
Don't think that stones and colors
must "match" to harmonize.. Find a
variety of tone In variety of stones.
Study sapphire, Jade, and lapls-lazull
togother for example, and then try for
a background of brocade that will cur
ry the harmony still farther.
Don't wear your mistakes after you
know them, even though they "cost
money." You will always feel dissatis
fied and uncomfortable while they are
on your person.
Color and Weather.
The woman who Is always1 tastily
dressed considers the weather when
choosing which gown to wear. Of
course the weather may change sudden,
ly, but a general observance of tbe ef
fect of weather upon color is usually
possible.
Red, pink or any color largely made
up ot rose la not pretty when worn In
tbe sun on a hot day, say tbe Pitts
burg Preaa.
Green and white in combination nre
prettiest on warm dnys. Pale blue and
white, pale blue, violet shades largely
of blue, cream color and soft white ma
terials are attractive on wnrm days.
In winter tlmo or during tho fall
months or even on a cold summer even
ing nothing Is prettier than red. Its
very warmth adds to Its beauty. At
evening coolness makes tho color at
tractive. The pink shudc.s nrn always
effective when under tho shade of
trees. Therefore pink gowns are pret
ty nt Inwn parties.
Ye seek what charms us, whether It
ho color or personality. If women wish
to nppenr nt their best they will ob
serve little things. The big things will
tnke care of themselves.
Teach Girls to Cook.
Let girls learn to rook, and let them
learn to do it well. No girl has a
right to marry nnd go Into a house of
her own until she thoroughly under
stands how to superintend every
branch of housekeeping, and to do this
she must have a practlml knowledge
of how to do things herself. Let girls
have a part of tho home housekeeping
before they marry, says the Philadel
phia Public ledger. It does not tnke
half the time nor such great exertion
to see that the house is properly swept
nud dusted nnd put In order, to prepare
eakesi and puddings and mnke dainty
mixtures to tempt the appetite, as It
does to follow a golf ball for a morn
ing nr to fly around a tennis court. It
Is all very well to say that nien need
an Intellectual companion, and one who
enters Into ad Is Interested In all their
pursuits. So they do, and the fact Is
that, as a rule, men marry without
thinking whether the woman chosen Is
capable of preparing a nieal or not. It
Is a pity that they are so short-sighted,
ns not only a man's health and cheer
fulness, but, In a measure, his success
In life depends very much on tho kind
of food he eats In fact, the whole
household Is influenced by diet.
First Aid at Home.
It Is wise to hnve in the earliest
household accumulations means for
quickly relieving the pains of scalds
and burns which are Inseparable from
household duties. If such Injuries are
sovere one should not rely upon home
treatment, but send for a physician at
once, for the patient will undoubtedly
require an anodyne as well as medi
cal treatment for tbe nervous shock
sustained, says the Portsmouth Herald.
Whllo waiting for the doctor, dip a
clean white cloth in sweet oil and lny
over the burn to exclude all air. If
sweet oil Is not at hand, use melted
Inrd, pure beef or mutton fellow melt'
ed, or vaseline. It the patient Is faint.
give a stimulant and apply smelling
salts to the nostrils. In canes of slight
burns prompt home treatment will suf
fice. If the blister Is only slight, quick,
ly apply cold water and then dust the
spot thickly with flour or make a batter
of flour and water and tie one with
cloth. A solution of bicarbonate ot
soda, one teaspoonful to four parts of
water, will relieve the stinging of even
a deep burn. In halt an hour after this
application carefully press out the ac
cumulated fluid from the blister and
apply an oil dressing. Equal parts of
Unseed oil and lime water make an ex
cellent dressing; It Is used by tbe pro
fession and should be kept In every
home for emergencies.
Fashion Note.
A return to black for evening wear
Is predicted.
Silver ornaments set with opals are
among the Jewelry novelties.
Scarfs of guipure or chnntllly tak
the place of the old-time boa.
The voguo of fringe for skirt and
waist trimmings Is on the Increase.
Java linen In white and blue shadoa
is a favorite nialerlul for morning
gowns.
A novelty in braid used for edging
the seams of a gown gives the ap
pearance of piping.
White alpaca embroidered In blue
and scarlet and finished wllh sash or
Liberty silk makes an effective bathing
suit.
For the fair autouioblllst the newest
cap Is of a heavy grado of khaki, with
peak of Chinese goatskin, in dark
green flecked with gold.
Many of the now gloves are lined
with contrasting colors or have a frill
of loco sot on with shirred ribbons and
falling over the glove touo.
Oold and mother of pearl trimmings
have hnd a long day, but they will be
used as much as ever next season for
tho decoration of eveulng gowns.
Largo lints are much to tbe fore at
summer festivities. They are worn
very much uplifted on one Bide and
low on the forehead after the fashion
ot the Gainsborough and Reynolds.
Quaint little Jackets of tha fine crim
son cjoth, or cashmere, made In the
eml-sacque shape and finished with
black silk fringe, lace, or passemen
terie, are being worn In Paris as sup
plementary wraps, and are particular
ly effective with white dresses.
I I t': jSSxsLL
Us of Screen.
AVhero two persons use tho snme
sleeping apartment one great Incon
venience is tho lack of privacy. Every
room used by two persons should hav
a largo screen as part of H furniture,
says tbe Brooklyn Times. Tim frame
ran be purchased for very tittle mon
ey and Is easily filled In with stlkollne
or cretonne. Or a bamboo porch
screen may be suspended from the
colling by inserting screw eyes Into
the plaster and dividing the room In
to two parts. Where a room Is bed
room and silting room also this con-'
venlenco shuts off tho bed and wash
stand, nnd If tho screen Is stained
preen or brown It Is not at all unsight
ly. How to 8elect Good Prunes.
Prunes should be largo nnd stilid
and hnvo the stirfneo unbroken If one
wnnts them worth tho cooking. Take
one In your hand, pull and tint ten it
out. If It leaves tho skin unbroken
nnd shiny you niny feel safe that you
hnve tho proper arllclo.
After wnshlng thorn and allowing
them to stand in clear, cold wnter
over night, allow them to cook over
a slow tiro for an hour. To two
pounds of tho fruit, add one pint of
water, stew slowly for one-half to a
full hour. When putting In the su
gar, a rich flavor rnn bo added by
slicing n lc non nnd grating the rind
Into the prunes. Let them stew until
thorp romnlns Just enough water to
cover the fruit nnd make a rich Juice.
Whnt to Eat.
Furnishing a Long Parlor.
In discussing color ns . affecting
room purport Ions, tho upholsterer
gives the following general rule for
the trentmont of tho long, narrow pnr
lor met with In tho nvernge city
house: -"Do the room In harmonies of
nnnlogy or related colors of a light
tone, and, moreover, receding colors."
Receding colors nre those which con
tain blue In tho ascendency, while ad
vancing colors contain red and yellow
In tho ascendency. The article fur
ther stnten that even In a small or
narrow room with northern exposure
It Is Inexpedient to uso warm colors,
says The Brooklyn Times. Such a
room should be treated In light tones,
gray preferred, and the deficiency In
the light should be supplied through
a warm tone In the curtains.
Coffee and Tea Making.
Do not forget that, to have the best
results, your tea kettle must be often
cleaned out, and filled with water
freshly drawn;' soft water Is best but
whatever kind you hnve, It must be
fresh. Bring tho wnter quickly to a
boll; have the pot made hot by rln-shi-r
with boiling water before the
coffee or tea Is put Into It. Allow one
tnhlespoonful of coffpe to each cup
of the beverage wanted; allow to boll
from three to five minutes, nnd tbe
finer the coffeo hns been ground, the
finer the flnvor will bo. If ground
very fine. It will be belter to tie It In
a llttlo sack, In order thnt the coffee
ninv be clear, (live just time for the
coffeo to get well settled before serv
ing about 10 minutes. Dashing a lit
tle cold water Into tho coffee-pot Just
before removing It from the Are will
aid the settling process.
Do not boll tea-grounds, but be sure
the water to bo used Is fresh-boiling;
and pour It boiling hot over the
grounds; stir the tea Just once after
pouring the water on it. Let stnnfl
about 10 minutes perhaps loss to
settle before serving. If the tea ha
to stnnd any length of time before us
ing, It should be drawn off the grounds
Into a hot earthen pot; If allowed to
stnnd on the grounds, the tannin will
be extracted, rendering It bitter and
unfit to drink. Do not begrudge the
little extra pains which is necessary
to have a dollclous beverage.
Recipe.
Oolden Cream Toast Cut slices of
stalo bread Into diamonds and toast
to a pnlo brown, drying slightly In the
oven beforo browning. Make a rich
white snuco of a pint of milk, three
tablespnonfuls of butter, two tuble
Bpoonfuln of flour, half a teaspoonful
of salt, a dusting of muce and a light
dusting of pepper. Cook until
smooth, add the grated yolks of three
hnrd-bollcd eggs and pour over the
toasted bread.
Baked Squash Stewed plain with
Bait and pepper they are not to be de
spised, but they make a splendid en
tree when bailed with, spaghetti. Ar
range in alternate layers, beginning
with the latter, and sprinkle bread
crumbs which have been moistened
with cream upon the top dressing of
squash. Bake a light golden brown
it must be understood that spaghetti
must previously have been boiled In
salted water and the squash mashed
with plenty of butter. ,
Sweet Plcklod Cucumbers Select
seed cucumbers not too ripe, pare and
cut in pieces two Inches long and one
inch wldo. Sprinkle with salt In the
porportlon ot one cup of Bait to six
quarts of cucumbers. I,et stand over
night, drain and cover with boiling
water In which has been dissolved a
teaspoon of powdered alum. Let stand
five or six hours. Heat two quarts
ot vinegar, five cups of sugar and one
ounc each ot whole allspice, cloves,
cassia bud and peppercorns tied In a
little muslin bag. Drain tha cucum
ber slice and simmer In tbe prepared
vinegar until clear.
IteiJ
New York Clly. Tucked coats worn
with belts thnt confine them at the
back nnd sides nre exceedingly be
coming to young girls nnd are among
missus' tuckkd coat.
the Intest nnd most a inactive models
shown. This very excellent example
Is adapted both to the costume nnd
to the general wrnp and to the many
A Late Design
materials of the season, but Is shown
In a mixed brown velvet edged with
fancy braid. Tbe long lines of the
frout, provided by tho tucks which
pass over the belt, add greatly to the
style and mnke a specially noteworthy
feature. The sleeves are the new one
thnt are full nt the shoulders nnd are
finished with roll-over cuffs.
The cont Is made with fronts, bnck
and tinder-arin gores, nnd Is finished
at tho neck with a simple roll-over
collar. Tho sleeves aro full and are
pleated Into bauds thai nre concealed
by the cull's. Tho belt Is ndjusted
over the buck and fronts to the centre
tucks, where it passes through open
ings left for the purpose nnd Is closed
Invisibly.
The quantity of material required for
the medium size Is live yards twenty
seven Inches wide, two and three
fourth yards forty-four Inches wide, or
two and one-eighth yards fifty-two
Inches wide, with one-half yards of
velvet nnd one nnd thrcv-foiirth yards
of braid to trim as illustrated.
Uoulila-Uollml Crown Band.
The crown bunds on huts Intended
to be worn ou cool mornings in tne
mountains tire quite different tlmu uny
thing seen before.
To begin with, they resemble a cart
ridge belt more than anything else,
and huve a double tier of quillings
of ribbons urtJtind the crown. The
lower quilling Is of light-colored rib
bon, the upper one a very durk shade
of the same color or of black it white
bo used for tho lower tier. The ribbon
sed Is of a heavy, handsome quality.
The quilling is stiff enough to stand
up like a stockade around the crown.
Tbe light-colored tier comes up outside
of the lower edge of tbe durk quilling,
and 1 also broad enough to lie out
flat for a little on tb briw of Ui felt
bat. Cream-colored felt hnts are band
some thus trimmed with two shades of
brown ribbon or with cream and dee)
leaf brown.
A swirling plume of white cock'
fen titers, poised slightly to the left of
the front, fulls down over tbe broad
belt of double quillings.
"Knlrktrs" for ftrhnot flirts.
For school girls plain serge and
Scotch plaids will be the favorite ma
terials. L'p to fourteen yenrs the choice
of mnke Is between the snllor suit
nnd the Itusslan bloiise frock. Girls
from eight to fourteen yenrs wear
knickerbockers for school and play
time Instead of petticoats under their
dress skirts now; the practical side of
this fashion has recommended It to
most mothers who hnve the comfort of
their children nt heart. These knick
erbockers nre made to match the dress;
In winter of serge. In summer of glng
lnfin or linen. -Fashion Number of
Harper's Bazar.
Klltril Kkln wllh Konnil Tolce.
Skirls thnt nre pleated below a
smooth lining yoke nre among the
smartest of nit smart things for tbe
coming season nnd will be worn for
nil street costumes. This one Is pe
culiarly chle nud attractive nnd Is so
arranged ns to give n plain effect at
the front, which Is always desirable.
As Illustrated, It Is mnde of cheviot
lu mixed shades of brown nnd tan.
by May Mcmton.
an
trimmed with handsome brown braid,
but Is suited to ail seasonable mate
rials. As a matter of course the trim
ming ciin be varied to suit Individual
taste, but the little straps coming from
beneath each pleut are eminently styl
ish and attractive.
The skirt Is cut in seven gores and Is
laid in bnekwnrd turning plents which
meet at the centre back, where the
closing is mnde. The yoke is circular
and is stitched to the skirt with cor
tlcelli silk, the trimming straps con
cealing the seam at sides and back.
As Illustrated, It Is made In instep
length, which is the prevailing one for
the incoming season, but can be made
still shorter whenever desired.
Tho quantity of material required for
the medium slzo Is eight nnd one-half
K1I.TKO 8KIUT WITH HOUNO YOKB,
yards twenty-seven Inches wide, five
and one-fourth yurds forty-four Inches
wide, or five yards ofty-two Incite
wide.