I Tha Polar Bear. Ths Polar Bear la aofi and white, Willi silver hair A pretty sight. Ba alta upon A aaow-drltt nloei Or dances on A aaka ol lea. And then mayhap - At other times, The funny ebnp The North Pola ollmba. 8t,MobolM. ' The steamboat Invention. Robert Fulton's Clermont, the first steamboat of any practical value, was launched Into the East river. New Tork. It Is not known who flrat con ceived the Idea ot propelling boats by team. Probably it waa Solomon de Caus, In 1615. Many people experi mented with steam propelling between 17SS, when William Henry ot Pennsyl vania placed a small boat on the Con sstogo river, and In 1807, when the Clermont made Its flrat trip to Albany. 'Among- them were Marquis de JonlTroy, James Rumsey and John Fitch. These aaen produced models which were well Worthy ot the name steamboat, but the Clermont was the first steam vessel . produced which actually carried pas sengers and freight, and Robert Ful ton. Is fairly entitled to the credit of laventlng the steamboat. Brooklyn agle. Feeding Aquarium Fish. Some of the flah at the Aquarium are fed as If they were Infants who were Just being weaned or In the trying pe riod of developing teeth. Instead of presenting the food to them on the end of one's finger, however, a slender, sharp pointed stick Is used. The sea Anemones, the African catfish (among the liveliest fish In the Aquarium), the Siamese climbing perch, sunflah, para lyse flsh, the amphluma, or Congo snake, the white axolotl, the Spanish ribbed newt, the common newt, the trl ton, the tadpoles and the small gold ish are some of those which receive their food In this way. To all ot these Is given minced beefsteak. As they are not sticklers the steak is only top Hound. These flsh are kept In the Class jars In the laboratory and have no opportunity to secure food for themselves. They are always glad to get their meal, which variea from one 7 little piece of the minced steak to a umber of pieces. Superintendent Spencer gives them their meal about 4 o'clock in the afternoon. He carries It about on a little wooden spade which sugjgets a butter paddle such as the good housewives of New England work their butter with. Beginning at the end of the row, he stops in front of sach Jar in turn, and, taking a morsel ot the meat on the end of his stick, pushes aside the ulva floating on the top of the water and pokes It Into the mouth of the flsh, which as a rule Jumps for it Sometimes the meat sticks on the end ot the stick, and then the flsh has to give it a pull. Some of the fish are so small that they have difficulty In swallowing even a single morsel. They are always greedy for it, however, and ready to undertake the task. New Tork Tribune. Rocky Mountain Rats. Anywhere In the altitudes of the Rooky mountains may be found a spo . de of oats which live among the rocks and In the mountain caverns. These rats are not unlike the rodents of other localities in shape and size, but. Instead of the long hairless tails, they possess bushy ones like those of squirrels; their color also la light brawn, which enablea ' the wily little fellows to easily render themselves practically Invisible, for the rocks of. the mountains are of ths same hue, and when startled ths animal crouches v against a bit of rock spreading his bushy tall, which, when so arranged, closely resembles dried fern. Sharp, Indeed, are ths syes that can see the mountain rat when he uses his dis guise although ha may be only four or gve feet Away, Ths -Rocky mountain rat does not Infest houses or cellars, and does not gnaw through boards, but he is quite sun inquisitive fellow, a great thief, and while he prefers to live in ths rocks, fas often causes much trouble to the miners, who are ths only people both ered, tor the reason that the miner is the only Inhabitant of the high alti tudes where the bushy tailed rat bounds. . Recently some miners In northwest ern Colorado brouaht to their cabin a I month's suDDlr of food, amonr whip were 10 bushels of potatoes, which were put in warm place several hun dred feet back in a tunnel in the moun tain aids. The potato were taken to tha tunnel In the evening, and next morning when the cook went for tubers to supply ths breakfast table ' it was found that only about a peck remained. During one night the rats had carried them away. When it is taken Into consideration that only one potato at A time, in all probability, was . re moved from the tunnel the feat of stealing nearly 10 bushels of them was oo small task to accomplish. There must have been hundreds of the rcts at work, and even at that It was a r ir- VOIOUS HCUlUVeUJBUlB. AJ4-1U& c fiu army of little thieves rolling on po tato sac tsVrougb hundreds of A.,jof gloom, and Imagine ths peraeverenoe Chat was necessary. Several days after ths potatoes dls r arad they vara found nicely piled under shelving rock near ths eabta. Mountain rats will not eat raw pota toes, so that It was simply a rase of mischief, snd no duubt the little fel lows enjoyed the pastime. Oftentimes explosions which create terrible havoc are brought about by the mountain rats In various ways. Being of an Inquisitive nature he has been known to tear off the paper cover ing from miners' dynamite, which Is used In blasting. If the dynamite has cry tallied a little it may be easily exploded and the little brown meddlers have caused mote than one terrible ca- tastropho this way. Chicago Record-Herald. Fan Fan, the Fairy. Why the king looked with ' favor upon such a man as Abel El Hansen no one could tell. The king was mer ciful and Just, and wished his subjects to be content. Hassen was cruel and1 selfish and cared nothing for the com plaints ot the people. He was the king's tax gatherer; and no matter, how poor the crops or what misfortune had overtaken a man Has sen demanded the ful? payment ot his taxes and punished him If he did not pay. But he toon rare that hone of the complaints of the people reached ths ears of the king, and the people were helpless against him. One ot the king's subjects was named Abed. He was a peasant, or small farmer, and when a good season came he had barley and potatoes and hay to sell Hla wife worked with him in the fields, and they worked very hard. Never had Abed been behind in his taxes, although there were times when ' t"ok Ms last nenny to pay them. He knew what would happen to him if he aid not. and be always lived in fear. At last. In this past summer, when it rained almost every day, there was not enough sunshine to make the crops grow. Abed and hla wife worked hard er than ever, but It was no use. Ths seeds rotted in the ground and ths hay field was flooded, and when the tax gatherer came around and asked for bis money Abed had to reply: "You see how It Is. I have raised no crops, and so I have nothing to sell. I don't know how I am to get enough to eat, let alone paying taxes." "You know the law," said Hassen. "The law says you must pay your taxes by a certain date or stand punishment. Qive me the money." "But I haven't got it," answered Abed. "Can I have money wnen I have nothing to sell?" MI care not for that. If the money I not forthcoming you shall be tied up and flogged." "Have you no mercy on' one who has met with misfortune? It la not be cause I have been idle, but because ot the bad Weather. Next year I may bs able to pay you double." "Seize him and We him up!" com manded Hassan to hla attendants, and It was done. "It is a shame to punish my husband when he la not to blame," said Abed's wife as her tears fell. Her words made Hassan so angry tnat he ordered her to be tied up and flogged as well. Tho whip was about to be laid on their backs when a voice cried out: "Hold! Why ate this man and this woman to be flogged?" Everybody looked around at the words, and from out of the currant bushes walked Fan-Fan, the fairy. No one knew her. but all supposed she was the child of a traveler. "It Is nothing to you what happens," you have come from the city and ars lost I will send a servant to guide you home." "I thank you, air," replied Fan-Fan, "but I am not lost. Why are you go ing to whip those poor people?" "Because they have not paid their taxes." "But how could they pay? Can you not see for yourself that they have no crops? There Is neither barley, bay nor potatoes here. There has been too much rain and not enough sunshine." "That makes no difference to me," sadd Hassan. "The king needs money, and I must get it for him. Abed must pay me or both of them shall bs flogged." "You are a cruel, unreasonable man!" exclaimed Fan-Fan. "I do not believe the king would permit you to do this It he knew of It" "You had better go and tell htm and ee," sneered Hassan. "I know what I am about, and asaln I tell you to go away." "I will see the king sure enough, but I will not have to go to him. I will bring him here. Behold, his majesty." Fan-Fan waved ber arms about her head, and in a moment the king came riding up and called out: "What now? Why are theae people tied up?" "Oh, King!" said Fan-Fan, as she .went closer to blm. "You know what the season has been. This poor man and bis wife have worked hard, but they have no crops to sell, and cannot pay their taxes. Hassan would flog them because they cannot pay." "Eh? What?" exclaimed the king. "I know it bas been a bad year, and It la my order that one who cannot pay need not It is a cruel thing yo would have done, Hassan. " "Abed is lazy a d shiftless!" growled the tax gatherer, as hs sought to ex cuse himself. "He is far from that, as I well know, and to teach you to be more respect ful to the poor It is my orders that you be tied up and get 12 lashes on the bars back. As for Abed and his wife, untie them and present them with this gold piece." The king's orders were carried out, and it will please vou to learn that Hassan cried out ut every stroke of the lash and felt his diegnace keenly, while Abed and his wife knealt to the king and shed tears of Joy, and hs gavs tbem his band to klsa Chicago Roe-ora-Hersld. MAKING MAPS A FINE ART. A Novel 'Method Which Haa Been De vised by s Bostonlsn. Prof. William O. Ripley of ths eco nomics department at the Massachu setts Institute of Technology, has de vised a simple and interesting method of building up statistical maps that is likely to mako popular a good deal ot curious Information which has been neglected in the past because there was no inexpensive way of putting it on paper intelligibly and entertaining ly. The old-fashioned method of mak ing graphic maps, as they are called, waa to print them In dleffrent colors or In different shades of ths same col or by ths lithographic process which Involves a separate printing for each shade and Is altogether a costly thing to do. A modification o( the principle of the lithographic map Was Prof. Rip ley's Idea. Instead of printing tills map in outline first and then printing each shade or color upon it separate ly, he pasted the various tints repre sented by shadings In black and white upon his outline foundation and then made plntes cf ths resulting patch work. The Idea is so interesting and Is ca pable of so manyappllcatlons which are both entertaining and instructive that It is worth describing. The nec essary equipment for building the maps Is simple a good map to use as a model, a sheet of tracing paper, a carbon copying sheet and some "slip pleboard," which Is a kind of paper ruled In fine parallel black lines on a sort of corcuroy surface so that it has A grayish tint Bcraplng the stipple board gently with a sharp knife chang es the black lines to dots, so that ths shads of gray appears lighter, and rubbing it lightly with carbon or cray on brings out cross lines on ths whole sheet By sufficient scraplag or car born rubbing stlppleboard can ba made pure white or dead black. (Suppose, for example, a student wlahea to depict in such s way that the meaning shall be evident at a glance how public health is dependent upon the quality of the water supply, and how important a factor a good system of water works is. Having set tled on the range of percentages which his shades ot color must represent, and having divided the statistical fig ures which are so meaningless to many people In accordance with this plan, he first traces from an atlas the outline of the United States with Its various subdivisions on his transpar ent paper and then by meaua of a car bon sheet transfers it to a piece of stiff cardboard, which Is the basis of his final map. Beginning up in ono corner ot the country, with the state of Washington, he would transfer tha outlines ot the state to stlppleboard and shade it fry erasures or by black ing so as to express his statistics of the Washington water supply in ac cordance with a scheme ot tint grada tions, each state having its special tint. Then he would cut out its northern and western boundaries with the scis sors, letting the south and east sides go untrlmmed, and paste it down in its proper place on the cardboard backing. Proceeding the aame way with Oregon and Idaho except that they must each be of a different shade, of course, lu accordance with tholr special figures he would Bttck them down so that they overlapped the ua trimmed edges ot Washington, Just as shingles overlie one another on a root, and thus keep on in the same way un til he bas shingled the entire map down to Florida, which, being the last piece to take its place, must be cut out on all sides. Rivers and the coast line are drawn In with Ink, and where ever the "shingles" overlap into the ocean they are scraped white with a penknife. If the range of figure is very wldo it may be necessary to supplement the four or five shades which It is possible to produce by means of tha stipple-' board with intermediate tints, and for this purpose paper Is specially printed in the required gradations. The in terest that can be got out ot thl.t .slm pie paste-and-sclssors process ot graphical statistics by the amateur, the student, the scientist or author is almost without limit for there is hard ly any series ot facta that cannot be thus pictured. A great advantage of the process apart from its simplicity 4s its lnexpenslveness for reproduction. Philadelphia Record. High Collar and Wesk Necks. "A remarkable fact" said a Portland haberdasher, "has been revealed by the inauguration among men of very low collars. The fact Is that the high, stiff collars . heretofore worn have weakened men's neck muscles, pre cisely as the corset weakens the back muscles of a woman. Several men who bought from mo at the beginning of the summer batches ot low collars have returned them, with the state ment that they are uncomfortable be cause they don't offer any support to the neck. High, stiff collars are a great support, you see; they relieve certain set of muscles of the work they ought to do, snd these muscles bo poms in consequence flaccid and atro phied. Then, when a low collar is put on, weakened muscles are set to work, and the result Is discomfort and pain. Portland Express. The Indispensable Telephone. It Is often remarked "How did ws over get along without the telephone?" and in view of some of the statistics In regard to the business done by large retail establishments It was Interesting to bear the other day that in a depart ment store recently In one day there were 2000 "busy" calls. In other words, In addition to all the calls which were successful there were 2000 which could not obtain connections. Ths outgoing telephone business alone ot this estab lishment exceeds 130,000 calls a year. Nsw York Mail and Express. Ths Plow. f waa Cways Interested In the study of agricultural Implements and ths difference in construction of ancient and modern ones, and I suppose it is very Interesting to others who are anx ious to till their soil and manage their farms In the best manner. My earliest - recollection of A plow at work In the field was one ot A side-hall pattern, on ths old New Hampshire farm. It was mads in Worcester, Mass., and ons of ths same kind still remains a farm here, of whioh tho writer has charge, and Is in very god condition still; but has not been used In years. Ths wooden mould board plow, with strips of Iron nailed on ths mould board, which my maternal grandfather used In years long gone by, and with which I used to play at plowing in tender years, would bs very pleasing to have now to place beside one of our modern plows. Indeed, what would that grandfather have thought, to have bow told that In years to come the soil would bs perfectly turned and pulverized with a disk made of steel, and the plowman riding on a comfort able seat beside. Would it not have been a hard thing for him to believe, think youT Wherever it csn bs used I consider the disk sulky plow ons of the finest implement a farmer can own. Truly, the plow Is destined to be im proved as much as have many other farm implements, and ths soil can bs worked In a mors thorough manner, and with much greater ease to ths team and plowman, than in years past Ws need to clear our fields from all rocks and other obstructions as rapid ly as possible, so as to bs sbls to take advantago of labor-saving Implements and machines ss much at possible. r. H. D., in th0 Cultivator. House for Winter Layers. The winter layers must be provided) with a warm, well-ventilatod house for roosting and a light, airy shed for days that are disagreeable. The roosting house contains beside the roosts ths nests which msy occupy the space be neath the dropping boards, and should be so arranged that they can be taken ont and cleaned separately. Soap boxes make excellent nests, and the straw or hay should be re newed at least once a month. Ths dropping board should be kept clean, and air slaked lime should be sprink led over them every few weeks. Kerosene should be sprayed over the roosts every month, and the in terior ot the house should be white washed at least four times a year. The scratching shed, which adjoins, should be roomy and light, the front facing the south 6r southeast It should havo curtains or large doors for closing during rain or snow storms, as otherwise the straw and Ut ter will soon become soiled and ob noxious to the fowls. After having a light breakfast, say one-fourth a full meal, the hens should be allowed to pass to scratching shed, where they will at once begin to scartch and hustle for grain. Sheaf oats mako splondld material for the scratching shed, and will tempt the hens to work long after all the grain has disappeared. On bright days, even though the weather be very cold, the hens should be made to go out doors at least) for a short time. They may prefer at first to remain Indoors, but will soon become accus tomed to it, and will enjoy the dally outing. Ons thing, and I might say the most Important of all to remember, Is that hens must not be allowed full meals until late In the evening. If satisfied early In the day, no amount of coaxing will Induce them to work thereafter. . They will huddle together and grow fat, but will not lay. If they refuse to scratch with a par tially satisfied appetite, they should be starved into subjection and be given no food except the grain in shed. They will soon busy themselves, and hust ling hens are the ones that lay during the winter months. Home and Farm. Corn .Stalk Disease. The term corn stalk disease Is applied- to a disease occasioned by pas turing cattle In stalk fields late in fall or early in the winter. An out break, if one '-should occur, usually takes place in from two to 14 days af ter the animals are turned upon the stalks. The great majority of cases occur betwoen the fifth and the eighth days. It is also observed that all ani mals affected die within two or three days of each other. There Is nothing in the anpnaranco ot the fodder to in dicate that It may cause trouble. Cat tle may graze and do well on one field, and from 10 to 60 percent be lost on another separated only by a fence. It makes no. difference whether the cat tle are allowed to graze for only a few hours or left In all day. After one outbreak has occurred a second rarely follows. . The disease has never been reported from feeding cut fodder, even when taken from the same field as that In which disease has occurred from grazing. The cause has never been determined, but it is most often observed aftor a dry season. The general symptoms are that the animal Appears dull, persists In stand ing in one place, or if he moves, It is with a noticeably perky gait There Is marked prostration; the animal will fall on th knoes, and may require sev eral attempts to rise. Some act as If eraiy, but ths majority are stupid. Thsr is mots or less frothing at Us mouth, and almost constant swinging of ths head from side to Bids whether in tho standing position or lying down. The movements are indicative of pain. Ths course Is or very short duration, from two to SO hours, the majority living less than six hours. Too often the history rs that ths cattle wers all right in the evening, and from ono to eight found dead In tho morning. As the cause is not known, and a success ful treatment has not been discovered, the prevention cannot bs prescribed except by using cut fodder. In a num ber of outbreaks of suppoacd black-leg, Dr. Craig, assistant stats veterinarian of Indiana, has found this to bs pres ent Instead. The disease Is not con tagious and cannot spread from one to another. The occurrence of a few cases In a community should not frighten others to dlscsrd ths use of the stalk field for feeding. Ths Epttomlst Hsy snd Pasturs Grass. Grass may be seeded both in the fall and In the spring, much depending up on circumstances. Hay Is perhaps the most Important article of food for live stock on the farm, and grass is said to be tho "foundation of farming." The grass crop may not be as valuable as corn, but it Is an article of food for which no substitute can be found, as it gives bulk and quality to ths rations, both In the green condition and when cored as bay. There are many excel lent and nutritious grasses known, and which can be used by tha farmer, but hs confines himself to but two or three. Clover and timothy are ths grasses mostly used for hay (clover not really belonging to the grass fam ily), and with all that may be said In Its favor there are many grasses supe rior to timothy. Custom, however, has given timothy, a -prominent place on ths farm, snd.' which It will hold for a long time. But. although timothy and clover are grown on the same land, as a mixed crop, yet they do not ripen together, and are consequently not suitable for each other and for producing mixed hay of the highest quality, for If the clover becomes toj ripe It will contain a large proportion of woody fibre, while if the clover is cut before the timothy Is ripe the lat ter will not be as nutritious as when fully matured. Orchard grass, which Is disliked by many because it "stools," comes Into blossom the same time as clover, and will grow on light or heavy soil. It will also stand drought better than timothy, and will give successive cuttings. Timothy is also low in nutritious matter compared with some grasses, and Its place can be filled by some kinds without risk of loss. Pasturs grass should be used for pasture only, and not for mowing for bay. If a pasture can supply the stock in summer It should not be required to do more. Another reason why ths hay crop should be separate from the pasture product is that the pasture should contain as many varieties of grass as possible, some of the best kinds being profitable If grazed, as they do not grow to sufficient length for being cured as hay. Pasture grass should be short, because the animals will prefer It so, as they can then bet ter select the kinds prepared. The young and tender grass, only a few inches high, is always more highly rel ished than any other, and if a pasture is to be occupied by the stock they will keep the grass down. No farmer, therefore, should expect a crop of bay from his pasture ground. The meadow is depended upon for producing ths bay crop, but the meadow is also giv en up to the animals at times. Tha point is not to take advantage of the meadow, but to make it better, by In creasing the variety of grasses. A va riety having tome fault should not bs condemned) if it also has merit Or chard grass comes early in spring, It will remain for several years, and it thrives whers some grasses could not exist. Herd's grass is excellent on meadow land that la somewhat molvtt. Its running roots soon form a thick; and permanent sod. Blue grass can be made to thrive on many soils, prefer, ring limestone land, and it Is a grass that gives the beet late pasturage, but It should not be grazed too closely early In the season. Adapt the grasses to the soil if possible. There are a great many kinds of hay crops that need not be grown to gether in the fields, as they can be mixed In the feed box when cutting the feed for stock In winter. Clover is the main bay crop, but such a crop as Hungarian grass, which grows in the summer, and In a short time, will add largely to the supply of hay, and ex peirmenbs made show that cow peas and oats, cut when not too ripe, will give good yields ot hay that may per haps bs better than clover in some re spects. One of the most valuable crops, in proportion to cost, is cow peas and corn, front the corn in rows and plant the cw peas in the same row, but between the corn hills, the corn being oqo foo apart in the ows. Cultivate one way and allow the pea vines to grow upon the corn. It may be mentioned that such a mixup crop may be harvested at any time. It adds variety to ensilage and the enslnlage will be more nutritious and also more highly relUhed by stock In winter than If tho ensilage la made exclusively ot corn. -But the farmer should study grasses and bay crops, for there are kinds that thrive on rich soils only, while others will grow on sandy soils, damp soils, medium soils, etc, and if they cannot bo grown together they may be grown on different fields. The greater tho variety the lees the liabil ity of loss during the diy season, as some hay crops will give good results while others fall under the same con ditions. Philadelphia Record. A square foot of real estate Is worth a.dosea castles la the air. New Tork City. Waists made with tucking that gives a yoke effect yet al lows fulness over the bust always are becoming to young girls. This attract- misses' waist. ivs and stylish May Manton bodice combines that feature with a collar and V-shaped portion ot lace that Is outlined by the fashionable strap. The sleeves are among the latest and odd to the effect. The original la made of chiffon eollenne. In pastel rose, and is stitched with cortlcelll silk and com bined with cream-colored point de Ven ise, the strap and belt being of velvet In a darker shade than the waist All waist and dress materials are, however, equally suitable; wool crepe albatross, cashmere, simple silks, veiling all being in style and desirable. The waist consists of a fitted lining that closes at the centre back, the front, backs and under-arm gores of the walat proper. The backs are tucked for their BLOUSE Oil entire length and fit smoothly without fulness, but the front is tucked to yoke depth only and Is gathered at the waist line to blouse becomingly at the belt The V is faced onto the lining and the trimming Is applied over the waist. The sleeves are arranged over fitted linings and consist of the caps, the tucked puffs and cuffs. Ths quantity of material required for the medium size (fourteen years) is three yards twenty-one Inches wide, two and a half yards twenty-seven Inches wide, or one and three-quarter yards forty-four Inches wide, with three-quarter yards all-over lace and three-eighth yards of velvet to trim as Illustrated. Wmu'l Blouse Waist. Blouse waists that Include wide verti cal tucks and are made with Hunga rian sleeves are much In vogue and are very generally becoming as well as fashionable. The stylish May Manton example shown in the large drawing Is made of pate pink peau de cynge, stitched with black cortlcelll silk and trimmed with applique of black silk and fancy buttons, but all soft, pliable waist and gown materials are equally suitable and the design suits both the odd waist and the entire costume. The pointed straps make a feature and a novel one, and both stock and cuffs are new and desirable. The waist is made over a smoothly fitted lining that closes at the centre front and Itself consists of fronts and back. The back is tucked to the form of A V to give the fashionable tapering effect to the figure. The fronts also are tucked aud are closed Invisibly beneath the innermost tuck at the left side. The back Is without fulness, but the fronts blouse slightly ' and stylishly. The sleeves are ruude over fitted linings and consist of the tucked upper portion, full puffs and the pointed cuffs. The stock Is finished separately and closes at the centre back. The quantity of material required for the medium Blze Is six yards twenty one Inches wide, four and a half yards twenty-seven Inches wide or two and a half yards forty-four Inches wide. Dalaty MeaUae. It Is Quits ths vogue with many women of tsste to wear as A negliges) a silk skirt and dressing sacques to match, in the placs of the robe or gown. Many of these skirts and sacques are made of pale blue, pink, lavender or old gold China silk, wltb a deep flounce; the skirt, as well As ths sacqne, trimmed elaborately with bands and "Insets" ot white, cream or butter colored laces. Those made ot white China silk, with butter colore lace and black velvet ribbon, ars ex tremely dainty and stylish. , Laee Novelties. Most of the entire lace skirts ars ornamented with ovals In ivory painted velvet Pretty well everything ws have is trimmed with lace, even leather slippers and card cases. Chamois tinted moire mingles with Irish point The time was when we only Introduced Chantllly or white lace Into the fronts of silk stockings; now they flgare on Lisle thread and find great approval. Woman's Blonas Shtrt Wales. Shirt waists made wltb slot seam antt broad box pleats are among the novel ties of the season. This very smart model Includes tbem both wltb the fashionable straps ot the shoulders and centre back. The slot seams at the back are peculiarly desirable, as they are laid to form a V and give a ta pering effect to the figure. As shown the waist Is of pale blue al batross with bands piped with black liberty satin and stitched with black cortlcelll silk, and Is closed by means of large gold studs, but all waistlng materials are appropriate. Cheviot, ma dras and all washable fabrics are ad mirable nnllned, while the many light SHIRT WAIST. weight wools and silks give every sat isfaction over the fitted foundation. The waist consists of a smoothly fitted lining, which is closed st the cen tre front, but separately from the out side, the fronts and back of the waist proper ond the bishop sleeves. Ths back Is without fulness, but the fronts are gathered at the waist line and blouse becomingly over the belt The slot seams are laid in at the shoulders snd extend for the entire length of ths waist and the fulness at the front is ar ranged in small pleats at the neck. The trimming straps ars applied and stitched to position. The sleeves are In bishop style with pointed cuffs that are held by studs which match those at ths front At the neck Is worn a stock of black liberty finished with a bow tie. The quantity of material required for the medium sizs is four and a half yards twenty-one Inches wide, fonr and Biiopsa waist. a quarter yards twenty-ssven Inches wide, fonr yards thirty-two inches) wide or two and a halt yards forty four Inches wide. i f v (