The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, January 21, 1903, Image 3

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    Snared ttanitt nn New fklrlt.
Shaped Hand on New Skirt.
Although yoke or shaped bands are
not universally becoming, they are.
en on most of the new skirts. The
one that have the least effect of cut
ting the figure In two are simulated
by braid or strapping. The short yokes
are th most generally satisfactory,
as they appear to be simply the con
tinuation of the basque or blouse.
Plaited and gored skirts are both at
tached to them.
Knastan Aejrlrtillnral School.
The ministry of agriculture in St.
Petersburg has Just derided to found
an agricultural high school for women,
which will be the first institution of
the kind In Europe.
The women who pass through this
institution will enjoy the same right
as the successful male students of the
existing; high schools. They will there
fore be deemed eligible to fill various
posts under the ministry of agriculture
and will be further entitled to hold
.the position of administrators of the
crown domains and of teachers in the
intermediate agricultural schools.
Although the date has not been set
for the opening of the new institution,
820 young women who have had an in
termediate education have announced
their intentions to continue the course.
Fashionable bnl fnbernmln.
It seems incredible that there should
be one live squirrel loft on the face
of the earth. Find a woman of fashion
who isn't wearing at least a touch of
gray squirrel fur and win a prize. But
few content themselves with a touch."
Most have stoles or wide capes, not
to mention coots that come almost to
the feet, and in every way it is in evi
dence as the fur of the season.
One can't help wondering what has
given it vogue, for rarely is it becom
ing. It is too dull a shade of gray, and
the fur itself Is too dead looking. Chin
chilla, to the contrary, is charming,
but squirrel has only the advantage of
novelty. To an old woman it is nothing
less than fatal. Not even rouge helps
It out when a middle-aged woman
draws her squirrel cape close around
her. Mme. la Mode has spoken, and
squirrel It Is for the year. Kansas City
Journal.
Kavlval or the 111 no FrncK ( out.
From over the water comes the news
that the blue frock coat is to be re
vived. That is not so bad if the revival
la confined to the coat alone, but as to
its accessories well, that is another
atory. When our grandfathers walked
abroad in all the magnificence of their
blue frock coats they wore flowered
waistcoats which were quite as gaudy
as their wives' best gowns. They wore
high Btocks, fob ribbons and all the
paraphernalia that in those days went
to the dressing of a fine gentleman.
That was all very well In the days
when a gentleman in question took
snuff from Jewelled boxes and spent
most of his time discussing the affairs
rftbe day In the chop or coffee houses.
Jut in the bustle and hurry of today
all this grandeur would seem sadly out
of place. Let the blue frock coat come,
but let it come alone; when quietly
dressed up to it look as neat as any
other, and its reappearance should be
welcomed. New York American.
. Simple rural Handwork.
Plain huckaback towels can be trans
formed into pretty toilet articles by
the girl who knows how. A nice pair
of bathing shoos can be made by cut
ting out uppers (using the uppers of
cast-off old shoes as a model) and
stitching them to a pair of cork soles.
Bind the edge with colored) braid and
aew on little lings around the edge.
Then sew a tape or ribbon to the back
earn and pass it through the rings as
a fastening to tho shoe.
A useful dressing cape to be thrown
over the shoulders when "doing" the
hair or drying it after a shampoo at
borne is made by dividing a towel In
half to a depth of 13 Inches, leaving 11
Inches of undivldej towel below. The
two halves hang down in front, while
the undivided part forms the back.
Overcast the edges to prevent fraying,
and trim the ifront in any way fancy
dictates. Towelling lined with oil silk
makes a neat pponge bag for traveling.
Another handy accessory tor traveling
s a, toilet case made from a atrip of
towel 14 inches long by six wide. This
atrip la lined with oil silk, then fold
ed over at each end and sewed down,
so as to form two pockets. Any amount
of decoration can be lavished on this
little article.
Tho Neweet Vail.
Perhaps the most important adjunct
of a pretty woman's toilet is her veil.
Upon it the effectiveness of her com
plexion largely depends. A good veil
softens tho tints of the tenderest skin
and adds lustre to the most brilliant
eyes.
- Upon the selection of her veil the
wise woman expends much time and
thought. Whether it fchall be black or
white, or the black and white mesh,
known as the beauty veil, because of
- Ita almost universal becomingness, la
a question which she decides only after
muoh pondering and more trying on
before the glass. ' .
The newest styles in veils are shown
la the five accompanying Illustrations,
and from these the most fastidious
.woman will surely find something to
elect that will suit her.
One of the most popular and effec
tive veils, shown this season is of a
fine open black mesh with large black
chenille dots, It has no'.Wng very
novel about It, but many women wear
this veil to the exclusion of all others.
For the girl who finds a black and
white veil becoming a very pretty one
of white net with large and small
black chenille dots is shown. Another
of whlre coarse mesh with clusters
of black dots Is mucli worn by the
girl who wishes to be thoroughly up-to-date,
even Jn the minor accessories
of her costume.
A veil of white Brussels net with
black and white scroll border and dots
Is also very becoming and decidedly
modiBh.
Newspaper TVnman,
Concerning the work of women on
newspapers and the effect of the work
on women. Kate Mastcrson writes in
the Era Magazine:
"Not a few of the women who have'
gained notable success in the news-1
paper field within the paRt decade have'
graduated Into higher literature, such '
as play writing and story telling, and
have thus achieved additional reputa'j
ii, hi. niifiia nitve biiiih me uuuuuuieu
promise of their future into the mor
pleasant paths of domestic life.
"The question of the suitability ol
the Journalistic field for women is on
which may be looked at from many
va-itage points. Where there are so
many who have made successes in this
Hue. who shall sny that It Is not a de-;
slrable one? The same rule applies to
this as to every other walk of life re-,
quiring good health and nerves, grit,
perseverance and steady, earneBt, in-1
dustry. It Is generally acknowledged ,
that the work of Journalism is a dlfl
ncult one even for men. A woman
over-sensitive and not of good consti
tution, and, above all, without plenty
of pluck, migh better choose some oth
er arena for her battle with life than
a newspaper office.
There are, of course, numerous de
partments of the work, such as book
reviewing, art criticism, fashion writ
ing and the like that are admirably
conducted by women who are rarely
brought In contact with the actual life
of the office and its politics, but these
positions are the plums that do not fall
in every lap, but are apt to come as
rewards for harder work in other fields
"The almost constant association
with men in the reportorlal department
of a paper, the discipline of the office,
the late and irregular hours as well
as the nature of the work itself are not
calculated to increase the gentleness or
reserve of a woman's nature, while, on
the other hand, all these are factors
which will educate and broaden the
mind and familiarize the woman writ
er with life in its real and varied as
pects. "But there Is an undoubted tendency
toward the deadly blight of 'new worn
anlsm' to the girl in this work which
it is difficult to escape. There are un
doubtedly women who have preserved
their womanliness, not of soul but
of manner through years of Journalis
tic work; work which has taken thorn
into scenes unpleasant to look upon
and more unpleasant to write of. They
have learned to accustom themselves to
the unconventionallty of office work
and tho frequent brusqueness of edi
tors, understanding that the present at
titude cf men employed upon a paper
is one of kindness, good fellowship and
sympathy for the woman workers on
the staff.'.'
BENEFIT
Exquisite gowns are made of white
panne with Incrustations of black
Chantilly on skirt and bodice,
Toqueg of velvet whose sole trim
ming consists of a posy of violets or
white roses on the top are extremely
modish.
White satin makes a capital back
ground for chine velvet painted gar
lands in soft pastel colorings mingled
with lace.
One of the newest stoles, of beaver
is crossed with bands of ermine and
from the ends depend a cluster of er
mine tails.
.A brooeh in the form of a flower
fashioned from a large amethyst and
rimmod in rose gold represents an ar
tistic Jewelry production.
Some costumes of white and pastel
cloth are trimmed with bordering
showing spots of various tints. The
border Is edged with a narrow fancy
braiding.
The latest gold chain purses are
models of attractiveness and elabora
tion, most of tbem being inlaid with
jewels and finished with claspB of ex
quisite workmanship.
Sets of fine linen and lawn edged
with lace of good quality are taking
the place of the hemstitched collar
and cuff sets which have become too
popular for exclusive taste.
Seed pearls of exceedingly fine lus
tre and color are utilized for a rope
necklace aien at a fashionable jewel
ers. The twisted chain is finished
with tassels of the pearls, topped with
clusters of diamonds.
The newest mackintoshes are smart
tis well as serviceable. They are a
sort of compromise between the Em
pire and the Japanese style, and are
distinguished by a yoke, large, loose
sleeves and elthor a cape collar or
Capuchin effect.
The serpent is conspicuous in this
season's designs In brooch and lace
pins. It appears in various guises and
attitudes, but probably the most effec
tive and at the same time artistic Is
a brooch of emerald matrix with two
tiny serpents in dull gold colled about
the rim, one having a rnby and the
other a diamond eye.
6 7T
Manlla'a IMata.
tn Manila the principal phz.i Is R
beautiful flower garden, two sides of
which are bordered by the cntbedrnl
nml the Palace del (inhornmlor. while
the oilier two are flnnkeil by private
residences. It Is nlsn used it it place
for recreation fur young nml old. Mere
on certain evenings nf the week nn ex
cellent band nlds In drawing crowd!
of citizens, wlioellbcr do not cure foi
n drive or ride to meet sonic friends ot
prefer ft short wnlk nml n breath c
air Indon with the perfume of tropica
vegetation. For those who like ft drive
or rliln on horseback nml to Inlinlo the
sen breeze there Is n Jioulerard con
sist Ins of two roads, which meet In A
right angle, one of which runs nlong
the sen like, where they hnve every
ilny nliont sunset n regular corso
which, after ft few turns In carriage
or on horseback, Invariably culnilnnti's
In n soclnl gathering Just nt the angle
where the two rnnda meet nml where
the music of the military I supposed
to be. (lie chief ntlr.ictlon. If nobody
listens to Its strains It serves nt nil
events as a pretext for the people to
exchange the news of the tiny. More
over, It 1 hero that invitations for tho
rest cf the cvsnlng are given or taken.
Tamper anil fair-ltesnerr.
When one loses rnmtnnnil of him
self nnd throws the reins upon the
neck of passion, he nin.v have for the
moment n rertnln enjoyment In iho
license: but there must surely come a
reaction of regret. When he Is enlm
again, and the lit has passed nway,
every serious person must lie ashamed
of what lie said nml what lie did, of
the manner In which 1:,. gave himself
away, and the exhibition which he
made of himself.
Ho will recall the nniiizoment on the
faces of his friends, and the silence
which they adopted as n protective
measure, nnd the soothing language
which they used, as If they were speak.
Ing with a baby, and the glance which
passed between them. He will not
soon be thought the same of with them
as ho was liefore this out hurst, nor will
ho bnvo the same claim upon their
confidence ns a sound nnd clcnr-headcil
man. He has acted like n fretful,
peevish child, nnd has for the time for
feited his title to manhood and the
place of a man. New York' News.
A Moroccan Incident.
A correspondent of the London Pally
Chronicle writes thus from Tangier:
"Morocco Is not yet completely civil
ized, in spite of the fact that the Sultan
has a motor aud plays a good game of
billiards. During the recent disturb
ances some villagers who had been
grossly Ill-treated sent a deputation
to the bashaw at Tangier, who prompt
ly Imprisoned them, nud set out with
his nlde-dc-camp and eighty men to
puulsli the liiiileoiitonts. Hut the vil
lagers were desperate, and defended
themselves, captured the bashaw, and
rolled him in the mud, while the
wretched aide-de-camp had his eyes
burned out with his own spurs, nnd
was left naked on the ground in tho
rain the whole night. The son of the
slierecfa was permitted to take him
to Tangier the next day, on condition
that the deputntlou should bo released
from prison, and no further trouble eu
sued." Oat or m CIm,
"There was a dog flght'golng on Just
around the corner out of sight," ex
plained the man who was telling the
story, and who always sees the funny
sldo of life. "Back of me, coming as
fast ns his little legs could carry him,
was a small dog uot much bigger than
a rat. As a matter of fact the biggest
thing about blm was his bark, but his
every action seemed to say: 'Oh, I do
hope that scrap won't be over before
t get there!' I and that small dog came
In sight of the fight at the same mo
ment. There were six dogs In the
mix-up, and not one of them was
smaller than a calf. The way that
small dog suddenly stopped, took oue
look and then turned and legged it for
home caused me te laugh aloud. He
acted as if be had suddenly remem
bered that it wasn't his day to fight."
Detroit Free Tress.
The Heflneinents of Dnelllng.
A large meeting of students of the
Berlin University was held recently,
nt which a resolution was passed re
questing the Minister of Wnr to recog
nize the sword as the official weapon
in all duels between ofllcers and stu
dents, and only to permit the use of the
pistol in cases of (1) the most serious
family Insults, (2) if one or the other
party Is physically uuable to use a
sword, (3) It one of the parties suffers
from a contagious disease which can
be communicated through the blood.
The concluding clause of the resolution,
which was agreed to jy sixty-five stu
dents' "corporations," numbering 2318
students, reads: "The students are of
the opinion that the lives of officers
and students belong to the fatherland,
and that they should not be risked on
account of petty differences."
Conltl Belli. ra Soma of Thau.
An amuslug story is told of a New
England minister who often spenks in
behnlf of a certain charity lu which
he Is greatly interested. lie hns a fine
voice and u graphic way of telling Inci
dents both huiorous and pathetic, so
that his hearers are often "moved to
laughter or to tears."
At the close of oue meeting, at which
ho had spoken with great effect, and
a large gain for the charity hat. j
the direct result, a little old lady ap
proached the minister.
"Oh," she said, earnestly, "I've been
so Interested in hearing about those
poor, dear children! And I suppose a
great many of those stories you told
are really true, aren't they" Youth's
Companion.
Ocos, formerly one of the principal
Mexican porta on the Pacific coast,
bag almost completely disappeared In
the sea, owing to the sinking of the
harbor bottom after an earthquake.
Vnre TValer.
To purify large quantities of watet
tn ease a filter Is nut obtainable It la
a good plan to use alum, for this will
cause all Impurities to sink to the bot
tom, when the clear water at the ti:p
may be poured oft and will be fit for
use. One tablespnonful of alum will be
required for four gallons of water. It
must be stirred In thoroughly and then
allowed to settle.
Lamp Shade Clilo anil ttalntv.
Chenille Is everywhere this season!
Even lamp shades are now garnished
with It, or even made of It. Some dain
ty candelabra shades are of pinked and
pleated white china silk as foundation,
with chenille ends of pink falling over
It so closely as to wholly cover the silk.
Each length of chenille Is finished with
a tiny sliver or gold bead or button
to give it sufficient weight to keep It
in place. These beads reach Just below
the pinked edge of the white silk, and
the top ends of the chenille are caught
about the neck of the shade with a rope
of twisted strands knotted on the outer
or "show" side. The effect of the whole
is chic and dnlnty, and gives an espec
ially soft quality to the light diffused
through It.
Tliat Walhroom Cloaaf.
The bathroom closet Is usually
crowded with botles and packages, but
It does not often have exactly the as
sortment of medicines and appliances
railed for In emergencies. Clear out
the old stuff, half-emptied bottles, etc.,
once in a while, says the New York
PoBt, and see that there are always
on hand the simple remedies most often
needed In the family. Ammonia, witch
hazel, sweet oil and lime water should
be there, and a one per cent solution
of carbolic acid with which to bath:
wounds and scratches. If a but is flrst
bathed in carbolic and then painted
with collodion there will be little bleed
ing. The sweet oil and lime water,
which the druggist will mix in exactly
the right proportions is the best of
remedies for a burn. Add to these n
ten-cent box of absorbent cotton, a roll
of antiseptic bandages and a hot water
bag, and the closet will be ready for
ordinary acctdenta.
A Table for the Cook.
The following table should be pasted
In every housekeeper's cook book:
Four even teaspoonfuls liquid make
one even tablespoonful.
Three even teaspoonfuls dry material
make one even tablespoonful.
Sixteen tablespoonfuls liquid make
one cupful.
Twelve tablespoonfuls dry material
make one cupful.
Two cupfuls make one pint.
Four cupfuls make one quart.
One dozen eggs should weigh one and
one-half pounds.
Use One tcaspoonful soda to one
cupful molasses.
One teaspoonful soda to one pint sour
milk.
Three teasponfuls baking powder to
one quart of flour.
One-half cupful of yeast or one-quarter
cake compressed yeast to one pint
liquid.
One teaspoonful extract to one loaf
plain cake.
One teaspoonful salt to two quarts
of flour.
One teasponful salt to one quart of
soup.
One scant cupful of liquid to two full
cupfuls of flour for bread.
One scant cupful of liquid to two
full cupfuls of flour for muffins.
One scant cupful of liquid to one full
cupful of flour for batters.
One quart of water to each pound of
meat and bone for soup stock.
Four pepper corns, four cloves, onu
teaspoonful mixed herbs to each quart
of water for soup stock.
HCFCS
Panned Oysters with Celery Put In
to the chafing dish one tablespoon of
butter, and when melted add one heap
ing tablespoon of chopped celery, half
a teaspoon of paprika, halt a teaspoon
of salt, and the Juice of half a lemon;
when very hot add one pint of oysters
picked over and cold water poured over
tbem; cook until the edges curl; add
one cup of cream, and when hot serve
on toast, '
Dutch Apple Pudding Beat two
eggs; add to them one cupful of milk;
pour this over two cupfuls of sifted
flour; add two level teaupoonfuls of
baking powder and a quarter teaspoon
of salt; turn this into a buttered bak
ing dish; have two apples pared and
quartered; lay them in the batter round
sides up; dust the top thickly with
granulated sugar and sprinkle over a
little cinnamon and bake in a moderate
oven twenty minutes; serve hot with
cream. '
Eggless Ginger Corns. Put one cun
of molass- noe.soh eaolnetaoinBbrdluua
of molasses, one cup of sugar and one
large tablespoonful of butter In a
saucepan and warm slightly, beat up
well and stir for ton to twelve minutes;
then add two teaspoonfuls of glngor,
one teaspoonful of cnlnamon, and grad
ually stir in one cup of milk. Sift two
teaspoonfuls of baking powder and five
cups of sifted' flour and add to the mix
ture. If you want them a little richer,
etlr In half a cup of seeded raisins or
chopped dates. Bake them In wall
greased gem pans and eat tbem hot for
luncheon or tea.
Mt
A FAMILY PERIL.
Rill .Tones, ha has a little boy.
With such a wondrous head
That 1)111 will stand around tor hours
liepeatlng what he anlil.
And even If we do not smile,
lllll Inugb with all his heart,
And say he la a lucky man
To tauve a child so smart.
Of mil's Intentions there's no doubti
He doesn't mean to shirk,
Out keeps on talking of his boy
Wbnn be should go to work.
If that obild holils his humorous bent,
A mournful fnte be'll meet
His fattier won't do work enough
To earn tlie price of meat.
Washington Star.
HUMOROUS.
"Tho fact that some marriages are
hsppy and others are unhappy," says
the Cynical Bachelor, "Is purely acci
dental." Wlgg Old Ilappygolucky Is pretty
well preserved, isn't he? I wonder
how he manages It." Wagg I sup
pose he keeps out of Jars.
Sliarpe I wonder why women are
not admitted as members In the Stork
Exchange. Whealton For practical
reasons. If one came In a man would
be expected to give up his $20,000 seat
to her.
"Young man," said the minister,
gravely, "you must choose between
the nairow path and the broad road."
"Ouess I'll take the broad road," re
plied the rich man's eon. "I own an
automobile."
"Am I to understand that you were
Martial god from the army for a mere
breach of etiquette." queries the Inter
ested friend. "Yes, Blr." boldly as
serted Col. Blupher. "What was It?"
"Turning my back to the enemy."
Son of the House Won't you sing
something, Miss Murlal? Bliss M.
Oh, I daren't after such good muBle as
we have been listening to. Son of the
House But I'd rather listen to your
singing than to any amount of good
music.
Jack (to lndy, come out to lunch)
Are you coming with the guns this af
ternoon, Miss Maud? Miss Maud I
would, but I don't think I should like
to see a lot of poor birds shot! Jack
Oh. If you go with Fred, your feeling!
will be entirely spared.
Merchant Yes. I'-ve lost my entire
fortune. Our most trusted employe
robbed us of enough to force my com
pnny Into bankruptcy. Friend But
you surely saved something from the
wreck. Merchant No. We found the
receiver as bad as the thief.
"Reginald," she said to a wealthy
young dandy who had been paying his
attentions to her, "I would like to ask
you one very serious question." "What
is it, my dear?" he replied. "Would
you object to marry mamma, If I re
fused you? You see, we really don't
want to lose you."
"There is a history entitled 'Men
Who Bled for Their Country,' " said
the enterprising book agen. "So I
see," remarked the prospective buyer;
"but you also have a volume contain
ing the lives of national politicians,
What do you call that?" " 'Men Who
Bled Their Country.'"
"Tell the truth, now. You are a pro
fessional beggar, are you not?" said
the keen-faced Indlvlduel who had been
braced. "I used to think I was," re
plied the weary wayfarer, "but since
13 cents and an exchange ticket are
all I have to show for a day's work I
am forced to the conclusion that I am
merely an amateur."
"Wasn't It a terrifying experience,"
aaked bis friend, "when you lost your
foothold and went sliding down the
mountainside?" "It was exciting, but
extremely interesting," said the col
lege professor. "I could not help no
ticing all the way down, with what ab
solute accuracy I was following along
the line of least resistance."
Prayer Healing Sustained.
By his decision on the Eva Earl case
In the police court, Judge Dick has ea
tablished the right of persons to en.
gage in the business of praying at the
bedside of sick persons, for certain
fee.
The defendant, Eva Earl, wsj arrest
ed some time ago on the charge of
violating the medical laws of the state
by practicing medicine without a 11'
cense. The person was a Mrs. Prentiss
of Valley Crossing, now deceased.
In passing upon the case Judge
Dick said the whole question hinged
upon the word "treatment," as used
In the statutes. He reviewed the test!
mony In the case, and said that there
were fees paid the defendant; accord
Ing to the testimony she was to receive
$5 for her first vlBit and $3 for subse
quent visits.
The evidence showed that the only
treatment was that the defendant
kneeled by the bed of the sick person
and prayed; this, while it may not
have done any good for the sick worn.
an, evidently did no harm. The Judge
said he did not believe the law con
terapiatect restricting prayer, even
though the person doing tho prayer re.
ceived a foe; be took it that the law
was meant to apply to persons "treat
ing" Invalids, whore there was no skill
and where an injury might follow.
After dwelling to some length as to
the right of a sick person, or the
friends of a sick person, to call In any
one for the purpose of praying, Judge
Dick dismissed the defendant.- -Colum.
bus Dispatch.
Qaeilloned Too Closely,
Tees You and Miss Sere don't seem
to be good friends. What'a the mat
ter? . Jess Why, abe remarked that she
was twenty-four years old, and
Tess And you doubted It?
Jess Not at all. I merely said: "Of
course, but when?" Philadelphia
Press.
(liilMiEW;Y?RK, FASHIONS
New York City. Box plented waists
with, drop yokes,' or deep yoke collars,
are much In vogun nnd are-generally
becoming ns well ns smart. This fash.
lonnble May Mantoii model Is shown
In palo blue pentl do cygue, with tin.'
yoke nml cuffs of the material, bntided
with black velvet ribbon held by fancy
stitches In black cortlcelll embroidery
silk, nnd in further trimmed with drop
ornaments In black silk. All wnlstlng
and light weight dress materials are,
however, appropriate, ns the waist
suits the odd bodice and the gown
equally well.
The foundation lining fits smoothly
nnd closes nt tho centre front, but sep
arately from tho outside. The waist
proper consists of fronts and back,
that nre box plented nnd nrrnnged over
the lining at yoke depth, closing Ini
visibly beneath the centre pleat. The
yoke Is separate and closes nt the back,
being simply tacked to position, nnd
Is finished with a stock that is trimmed
WOMAN'S
to give continuous lines. The sleeves
are box pleated and form puffs above
the snug fitting cuffs.
The quantity of material required for
tho medium size Is four nnd one-half
yards twenty-one inches wide, four nnd
one-half yards twenty-seven Inches
wide or two aud one-fourth yards forty-four
Inches wide.
Woman's Fancy Collarette.
Collarettes hnve become so generally
worn as to be numbered among the
necessities of correct dress. The very
smart Slay Mnnton model shown in
tbo largo drawing Is adapted to silk,
chiffon. Liberty silk nnd to combina
tions with Ince, and is eminently to be
desired. Fur always Is handsome, but
to ninny people It Is overheating worn
about the throat, for which reason col
larettes of silk often take Its place
even In mid winter, whllo for nil other
seasons silk, chiffon nnd the like take
first rank. - As shown, the model Is
mado of heavy white French crochet
luce, combined with black chiffon, but
various laces enn bo used or tho collar
can be of silk.
The collarette Is mnde with the fitted
caiw collar, to which the frills nro at
tached, and a standiug collar thnt Is
cut away In front aud concealed by the
ruche. At tho frout edgo nre ties and
rosettes. Tho rucho Is doubln and
pleated at the centre, but tho frills nre
edged with a tiny quilling, then luld In
pleats nt tho upper edge.
The quantity of material required Is
six and ono-fourth yards twenty-ono
Inches wldo or three yards forty-four
Inches wide with oue-hulf yard of all
over luce for collar.
Qua Metal Novelties.
Gun metal Increases in favor In nov
elties for feminine decorutlon. When
this metul first became popular It was
used In making meu's jewelry alone,
but the vogue for It soon necessitated
Its bolug made up la pretty conceits
for maids and matrons. It Is especially
worn v by women who are wearing
alight mourning. The chief attraction
of gun metal Is that it never tarnishes,
nd that Its toft shade harmonises well
BOX FLEATRD BLOC.1R.
with any fnbrlc or color with which It
Is combined. Among the new orna
menfs that have been made for women
to wenr nre long chains, belt buckles,
snali pins, entire belts nf this metnl
wrought Into filigree work, handling
mounts, enrd eases, purses nml shoe
buckles. The more elaborate of them
nre set with scml-preclous stones.
Kxtravaaant Faelilone.
All fashions of to-day point to ex
travagance. If we have Inexpensive
materials they nre so loaded with trim
mings, or are so minutely nnd expen
sively liniid worked, that they nre denr
In the end. Beautiful velvets nnd the
costliest eniliroldcrlrs nre pnrt of the
modes of the moment, and never lias
luxury been carried to such n pitch lit
Jewelry. Tho neck, arms nnd bend nre
covered with gems, so nre Hie fronls
of the bo'llces. nnd ninny women In
troduce beautiful Jewels on to the
skirts real, not Imitation, flows of
pearls nre festooned over man? of the
draperies on low bodices. Embroider
ies of wreaths nnd sprays of flowers In
their iinturiil tints, ninde of chiffon
nnd shaded silk, nre much worn.
leather nt lite Tliniat.
Leather fobs carrying n metal mono
gram or n design In baroque pearls or
rlilnestones lire now worn nt the collar,
fastetied with n knotted thong of leath
er nliout the throat, and strongly re
mind one of the tags worn by poodles.
For tlie Short Helm.
Crescent shaped pins for catching the
short hairs nt the back nre enjoying
considerable vogue nnd white, . pink,
gray and occasionally black pearls nre
utilized for their embellishment.
Baby lliira Outflt.
Every little girl delights in a baby
doll. The complete little outfit Illus
trated Is copied directly from thnt of
the real live bit by, nml for that rensou
COLLARETTE.
possesses many charms. In the orig
inal the shirt and petticoat are made of
flno white, cambric, the dress of nain
sook with embroidery, the coat of cash
mere, tho cap and the little sack of
fine flannel.
Each garment Is modelled as care
fully as nre those of tbo Infant's ward
robe. The llttlo dress Is made with a
round yoke rf tucking, full skirt and
bishop sleeves. The petticoat consists
of a fitted body, and long, full skirt.
The shirt is opened at the front, and
finished with the regulation bib por
tions at tho neck edge. The sack ll
prettily shaped nnd finished with a
round collar at the neck, all the edgea
being buttonholed with silk. The coat
Is made with tho short fitted body,
long full skirt, and regulation sleeves.
It can be worn either with or without
tho cape, which is simply circular and
cut without seam. The cap Is extreme
ly simple, and consists of a smooth
front portion that Is gathered into the
round crown, the edges being finished
with a lace frill and wide string ties
are added that bow under the chin.
To cut this outfit for a doll eighteen
Inches long, seven-eighth yard of cam
bric will be required for the shirt and
petticoat; one yard of nainsook wltli
seven-eighth yard of all-over tucking
for yoke; two nnd one-fourth yards of
embroidered edging aud oue and one
baby doll's outfit.
eighth yards of insertion for dress; one
fourth yard of flannel for sack; one anil
one-eighth yard forty-four Inches wide
tor coat, cap aud cay. .
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