AKCTIC MOTIVE IS FAME. THE B.BBLE REPUTATION OUT WEICHS LIFE ANO TREASURE, Ami from lliln I aim nf Vlnir t li l)nr. ftitn " lliti se-irrhln fur t Mnrlll I'nlo I'mvT" A MftH pi llarlr A Irvrr Annl-raia ttr the Ari-tlr tiptnrrr. Eighty-four, seventeen, 84. tT. t.ooked at in any way. wtit.cn In whatsoever fashion, they do not 'em to tnpan more or to be mm th-n just eighty-four, seventeen a common combination if feur figures which an untutored child might write ovpr and again upon a slate. Juggle tlipin this way and that, an a conjuror would four glass balls, and still they are Just eight and four and one and seven, fur aught ire know who have not beeh Intruded In their singular significance. But the other dny a man came out of the north nnd stood on a bleak and for ...iilng hill at Cane Sublne. and Bhook Is head, and said, "Eighty-four, seven teen." What he meant wan this: 1 lint pluck nud Intelligence anil mon ey had mice more combined in vain: that Lieut. Peary had made a northing of only M degrees and 17 minutes, and had missed liy :l'iO miles the goal of his amliiiion, and mat the arctic still kept ita mystery side within Its cruel, white nnd seductive liosom. Whether nil this should le set down as splenAid lo'iiance or plain, ordinary folly depends much upon the point of view. Like little Peterkln. when he found n skull In the cornfield and wanted to Know "what tliey killed each other tor," here ore many very sensible people who sanely live and die, make love and pay their taxes, and do not unuerstand at all this thing called arctic explora tion." Indeed, there Is so much of a hazo and nolo around tl.e arctic explorer that to find out the man and his mo tive is almost as ('.illliult as to attain to the pole itself. No glorious knight of the Table Hound ever engaged In more shadowy. iitungihle quest, with lees hoi- of what the world calls re ward, or earned the plaudits of a more thunderous, gaping audience, than these knights errant of the snows. The truth Is that the great arctic motive Is composed of many wants Hnd Impulses Imaginations, thirst for knowledge, love of adventure, the am bition to ex?eL end the mere eagerness that men have to be doing something. The Vlklngg wer arctic explorers be cause they wanted to find Nlvlhelm, the mythical land where the frost giants played. Krlc the Red loved the cold spray on his cheek. Later, the early Norwegians sailed into the un known north because new lands were needed fcr the restless men who crowd ed Norway. Othar, of Alfred's court, "desiring to know," sailed around the North Cape in 690. and told a fine yarn about it. Likewise, Harold Hardrada, King of the Northmer sent his prows north ward till they were gray with the frozen sorry, and he ran plump into darkness and barely escaped Ginnunga gap, the abyss of the world's end a most excellent adventure, Indeed, and fine stuft for gran leather talis and minstrelsy for many and many a day. Then came the medieval dream of a northwest passage by the open Polar Sea to the wealth of India and Cathay. The idea took firm hold upon tue rich fifteenth century imagination: and even as late as 1607 Henry Hudson tried to find in the north an open wa terway to the Pacific. Dreams: Yes, But, says Nansen, "England has to thank these chimeras in no small de gree for the fact that she has become the mightiest seafaring nation ot the .world." Splendid dreans, indeed. Ul tima Thule! The words fairly tingle with the reiterated romance of the centuries bold voyages into uncharted deeps where tho blue berga held their sway. v As for modern motive, Nansen gives the clew to it when he writes often and again of "wresting the secret from theso unknown regions of ice," and when he said of his proposed attempt to drift across the pole from the New Siberian Islands to the Greenland coast. "It is not to seek for the ex act mathematical point that forms the northern extremity tf the earth's axis, that we set out, for to reach this point Is intrinsically of small moment. Our object is to investigate the great un known region that surrounds the pole." Nansen reached 86.14. All of which does not yet make clear the bootless tolling, the useless sacri fice, the mtigniflcent courage that arc tie sacrifice, the magnificent courage that arctic explorations exact. To find tho true incentive, we shall have to go deeper yet, and touch those hidden springs that tumble men headlong Into such mad, forlorn and futile do ings as mystify the godB. Only the other day a little dried up' man, with his face scorched to a crust, like lava, returned to Algiers with a simple, brief story of having traveled 2000 miles among the Moroccan Ber bers, a somewhat peculiar people, who would have made a fine but deplorably HKly example of him, if they had pene trated his disguise. He had do partic ular basinets in thus taking death by ;he arm, except a desire to know things. So with that woman, Mrs. Workman, who recently climbed I.oongma glacier in the Himalayas, af ter Indescribable hardships and per ils, Just because the wanted to do something big and exceptional. She doesn't like pink teas. It is a mighty good thing, we cannot doubt, that all success In the world is not spelled with the same set ot characters. Most men like to excel. Borne choose seven figures on the cred it side of the ledger. Somo take to mu sic, to painting, even, In their extrem ity, to the romantic school of Action. Tsar art men who devote many toil- some henrs to Mastering the carom; nt least two or three htv" sacrifice-, their Hie intellect to chess; while the lives that have heen "thrown away." with splendid fury and abandon, Just to carry a .-itpppry pigskin ball neros a muddy field to a wlitownshod line tilled Roil, are really enough to kerp prudent folks aw.ike at night to the prejudice of their health and the peril of their precious happiness, So, nfter all. the reason why men try to reach the pole, going blithely through, silences that are at one with the silence of the stats, over white nessos that are atilti to the whiteness of death the renson is that the pole Is there, and, within the limits of his tory and tradition, no man has seen it. What more, forsooth? And this adven ture has one marked adant.i;e. too. over most other avenues of spright ly endeavor: Th"re Is only one No tb Pole, and unless the eotth come a cropper in tne celestial fl Ida, .Hid v.it to spinning on another axis, the nvn who finds It shall not tied to sit tV rc and watch It. He will have won hi--Xureka for all time, and may res: ' Mich temperate rone, of serenity as his rare and restless spirit can com mand. And. finally, who kn-ws? t'o!' -liitf could- nut have foreseen the IVclurn tion of Itld-'peniletv e v. hen he d out to ('ml sum-thing. I-'r.viMiii did not d renin of the telephone wH:i t played with kites In a thunder sti'im Kvery new outpost of science. e,i.ry star that swims into our ken, eery ts land of the seas s irpiise the wr.rhl -ini! often Its discoverer, too. What is t;.?re at the North Pole? The Garden (, IMen, or an awful spectacle nf lie nu.t snow and niriht? No matter: it Is stili unknown; and human curiosity t stronger yet than death, and fears nol man nor devil nor any unseen thing. IS. A. Bingham in the New York .Y:ii! and Express. CUAINT ANO CURIOUS. A lake schooner was loaded at Du luth the other day with 844U tons of ore, equivalent to 281.333 bushels of wheat. This ts the largest cargo ever floated on the great lakes. The famous Bat Hole mine, in the mountains of Arizona, was discovered by a woman who watched a trader rat carrying things out of her tent to Its hole In the i-oeks. The mine. It Is naid, has paid millions In dividends. One of the largest happy families on record was recently broken up by the police of Paris, France, because the neighbors complained of the night ly racket. The hostess of this home kept 70 chickens, 30 pigeons, one goat, four cats, eight dogs, one parrot, and 1:' small blrdj. Captain Harland of the British steamer Hardanger reports having run Into a rain of bats on tho trip from New York City to Baltimore. The ship was attacked by great numbers of the bats, and it was with great difficulty that those on deck could protect thenibelves from their sharp tin-like wings. The largest apple in Boone county, Kan., has been found growing on a tree in a millet patch on f.ie farm of Mrs. E. A. Jones. The tree was small, and wos not supposed to have any fruit on it; but this applo, which is of the Ben Davis variety, is 15 inches In circumference, and weighs a pound. The millet around where It grew was 11 feet high. The bicycle cyclometer which is made so economically and compactly for use on the bicycle lias evolved Into a machine used now for a great many purposes. One form or another of the cyclometer has now been adapted to e number of machines where It Is de sired to keep tab on the number of rieces turned out. The latest article of this kind Is a tiny device by which tne officials of telephone companies are enabled to know at a glance which of the girls of the telephone exc hange are rhirking work. The machine is fastened in an inconspicuous place on the switchboard and makes accurate record of every teelphonlc connection made by the girl attending that parti cular part of the board. T".ie record is made automatically. T.ie counter is attached at-will by simply Inserting two pins into two socket screws. The operator after inserting the plug presses the lever, and when this Is cone the Instrument registers one. rrrfnrrfKl Ilia )unua to Mfe. Wing Lee's refusal to allow a phy sician at the Homoeopathic hospital to remove his queue to dress a wound, msy result In his death. He was struck over the head with a stool and his skull fractured. Rather than have his fair removed he preferred to take his chances with death from less effec tive dressing of his injury. The doctor who wa3 called to dress the man's wound started to shave the crown of his bead so that a proper dressing could be made. To this 1-ee strenuously objected. In his broken tongue be Intimated that rather than have his queue removed without which he can never again return to China, he would take bis chances with death. Pittsburg Post. Aupraalativa aftha lnlqur, "That young woman bas some very original Ideas," said the susceptible young man. "Yes," answered Miss Cayenne, "she must have. Otherwise she couldn't pos siuly derive so much enjoyment from listening to her own piano playing." Washington Star. Volcanic ashes mixed with cement taava been used successfully In the con struction of a breakwater In Otaru Har bor, Japan. WORLD'S FUEL SUPPLY. COAL RESOURCES HERE AND IN OTHER COUNTRIES. llflr)Htr In Mining MaihntH snlttl tiite Inr ('itt-tttid I'riritlrnm llnnil. l.l l.lka Coke The foia hlhtlat nf tha nf ' i I net In tha tutnra. "The world's Htel supply," r.l'rt an officers of the Bureau of American lie publics, "has recently been niado the subnet o' m Intpfc f;rij stu ly by Dr. Ferdinand Fischer of outtctiKcn, Ger many, who has collected with much care all the available data as to tho coal resources of the globe. His find ings are made of peculiar value by the recent anthracite strike here, with Its focussing of American attention on fuel." It Is a curious commentary, that while China, so far as is known, Is richer In coal than any other country In the world, almost none of It I yet available for steam power. It Is large ly used by the Chinese, but mainly In the regions where It Is mined. The land routes are so poor that It does not pay to haul coal more tha'i 23 miles-. Unless a mine ts within this distance of water carriage, the area of tho distribution of the output Is confined to the immediate neighbor hood. Steamships nt fc-lrjnghul are to day filling their bunker with co.tl brought from Kuropp. because It is cheaper than coal xpcnslvely brought from Chinese mines Mi the Interior. In Dr. Fischer's opinion, Germany has a coal supply thill will meet the nerds of that country for about Jituo yenrs. Dr. Fischer also reaches tne conclusion that probably within the next 50 years, and certainly within this century. Great Britain, at the present rate of consumption, will exhaust her coul resources. She certainly cannot go on supplying the larger part of the world's export., The total production of coal In Great Britain in 1WI amounted to 2 1'J.0 16,1)45 gross tons, against 225.1S1.3U0 tons In l'.00. Japan has large coal resources, particularly in the southern provlncp of Kiushiu. Borneo Is rich in coal formations, as is als New South Wales, a fact that is enabling Sydney to forge ahead of the other Australian cities In Industri al development. Africa and South America are poorer In conl than any of the other continents, but the devel opment of coal mines In South Africa bids fair to supply the Industrial needs of the country. According to returns to the Vnlted States Geological Survey from produc ers representing fully 97 percent of the entire coal output of the United States, the production of 1001 amounted to 292,240,758 short tons, valued at $348, 81.1.831. As compared with 1900, when the output amounted to 269,831.827 short tons, worth 306.S91.364, this rep resents an increase of 3 percent In quantity, and 13.6 percent In value. Tho production of Pennsylvania an thracite showed a phenomenal Increase from 51,221,353 long tons in 1900 to 60,242.560 long tons in 1901. This rep resented a gain of 17 1-2 percent, the largest percentage of gain made by the anthracite trade in 20 years. Part ot this Increase was due to the strike In 1900, which reduced the output that year by over 2,500,000 long tons. Tho Increase lu the value of the anthracite product Is still more striking, the amount received at the mines last year showing a gain of more than 31 per cent over that of 1900. A period of prosperity enabled consumers general ly to pay higher prices for their fuel, and a railroad monopoly made them do so. The production ot bituminous coal, lignite, cannel coal, etc., in the United States Increased from 212,513,912 short tons in 1900 to 224,769,091 short tons in 1901, indicating a gain ot about 6 per cent. The value of this product amounted to $236,309,811, as compared with $221,133,513 in 1900, an increase ot $lS,l'io,29S, or a little less than 7 percent. The coal production of the United States last year was nearly 20 percent more than Great Britain's; .nearly SO percent larger than Germany's; nearly seven times that ot Austria-Hungary, and more than eight times that of France, England, however, continues to export more coal than all other countries. It supplies far more coal ing stations than any other country. . The business of selling coal abroad Is usually very profitable, and one rea son why England surpasses all com petitors in this line Is because her coal is so near the sea that she is able to ship It less expensively than any other exporting nutlon. Owing to the more extensive use of coal-mining machin ery, much of the tnited States coal at the pit mouth does not cost as much as British coal when raised to the sur face, but by the time it is shipped on the ocean It usually costs more than British coal. England bas special ad vantages for the export coal trade, and she improves them to the utmost, in spite ot the fact that economists assert that the present century will see the end of her coal resources. A comparison ot the coal resources of Great Britain and the United States was recently made by A. S. E. Acker mann, who shows that the area of coal fields In the United States is about 225,000 square miles, as compared with 900 square miles In the United King dom. When it comes to actual mining op erations the American uses much more machinery than the Briton. Mr. Ack ermann says that the annual product of the American miner averages 626 tons, while that of the British miner is only 300. In America the railway freight charge per ton-mile Is about one-sixth as large as In Oreat Britain, Three causes operate to produce the result. Coal In the United States li usually shipped in cars holding SO tons, while in Oreat Britain It is broken up Into six-ton or ten-ton lots; second, the original Investment of capital la rallronds Is UlU'ii grrnter a tulle In England than In America, and the rates must be heavier In order to pay divi dends; and third, our hauls are longer. A recent rniort by Consul Brttnot of St. Etlenne, France, slates that a con cern In that country is now engnRed In the manufacture of solid petroleum, that Is, petroleum so treated that It may tie handled as coal or coke. This product Is manufactured In the form of briquettes, wnlch are composed chiefly of petroleum, either crude or refined, and possess all the desirable qualities of coal and vrdlunry petro leum without any of the objectionable, characteristics of either. The principal expense In the manu facture of the new fuel Is tbe oil, the other Ingredients and the labor cost ing comparatively little. Serious attention has been given In recent years to the possibilities In the use of peat as fuel. In Nortn Euro pean countries, In Ireland, ad In some other regions, the peat deposits have formed for a long time an Important fuel supply. Even In Germnny, which Is relatively rich In conl. the peat bogs are exploited extensively, lu the United States there has been little Inducement for the development of the country's peat wealth; nevertheless, many be lieve that there Is a wide field for profitable use ot this fuel In this coun try. Far greater possibilities In this direction exist In Canada. That coun try la practically bare of coal, but rich lu peat, ami may be forced to consid er the use of the latter on an extended scale. Teat, In Its nnturul state. Is a poor fuel. It holds, suspended ill the meshes of the network of vegetable fibres of which It Is composed, a very large percentage of wuter, und also contains much water In more Intimate combination. A number ot methods of treating it are In operation. It has long been realized, however, that the moBt desirable peat product would be a coke, and numerous attempts have ben made In this direction. Up to the present none of these have proved suc cessful. A process developed quite re cently promises better resultB. If the claims made for It are well founded, the peat coke It produces will soon be a valuable fuel. New York Post. TAKEN AS AN OMEN, Whan tha Hninan' Rapa Itroka All Hnld fnrtlr Was Innaraitt "Although I never saw but one hang ing. I witnessed a Bight that even pro fessional hangmen have not seen," caid A. A. Albrechton of Columbus, Allss. ' "It was at my home. A young Mlsslsslppian named Purdy had been convicted of murder in the first (legrco and sentenced to hang. The evidence was wholly circumstantial, nnd before he was accused of that crime the young man had borne an excellent reputation. He was also connected by marriage with some of the best people In the state. "Nevertheless, ho was sentenced to hntig and the governor would not re prieve him. There were two fat-tors In the community, one believing blm guilty, and the other considering iilm innocent. The latter talked of rescue, I ut It was all talk. "Tho scaffold was not Inclosed and when young Purdy ascended the gal lows he walked erect and fearless. He denied his guilt, and all who saw blm were compelled to admit his bearing was that ot an innocent man. The black cap was pulled over his face, the sheriff pulled a lever, and tho next we saw was a man getting up from the ground snatching the black cap from his head and declaring dra matically: 'God has proved my inno cence.' "The ropo had broken. That was enough. Former enemies turned Into udlierents, and before the sheriff could again take his prisoner to the gallows and get another rope he was in the centre of a crowd of thousands of people, all of whom were swearing there were' not sheriffs enough In Mississippi to hang an innocent man. "Purdy was takea home, and an es cort of 250 armed and determined men went with him and remained until there was no danger of any further proceedings being tuken. Without any legal formalitluB the matter was al lowed tb drop, and Purdy Is living IS miles from Columbia, respected an! happy. "Joy almost killed his wife when lie saw him alive at tho time she ex pected his corpse to be brought home. To say Purdy Is guilty la now almost as much as a mnn's life is worth down there." Denver Post. Varsavaranca and Inspiration. "I 'was once told." said Anthony Trollope, the novelist, "that tbe surest aid to the writing of a book was a licce of cobbler's wax on my chair. 1 certainly believe more la the cob bler's wax than In Inspiration." And by way of explanation he adds: "Noth ing Is so potent as a law that may not bo broken. It has the force ot the waterdrop that hollows the stone. A small, daily task, if it be really daily, will beat the labors of a spas modic Hercules. It Is a tortoise which always catches the hare." It was his custom to rlBe at 5.30 and write for three hours, with ills watch before him. He required of himself 250 words an hour. This, at the end of 10 months, gave him three trhee-volume novels. The man who everlastingly keeps whatever it may be a succoss New York Press cnifwyp cbmfwyqpj New York News. Tha Librarian' Mninor. "What," we ask of the librarian, "do you suppose is the greatest library I book in the world the book that is in tha most demand?" "Carnegie's bankbook," he respond confidently, without looking up from bli work. Baltimore American. HOW SALT COOLS COFFEE. A Utile r.tparlmant Worth tha Trying Out nf Mara t'nrlnally, HiUwocn bites, of simple breakfnst he li.'iil ordered, the young clerk pnzed nervously nt the restaurant clock. It wns plain be had overslept himself, and wns paving Hie way to future In digestion by bolting his food. The cof-To- was the stumbling block. It tva Intl. very hot, but the clerk needed It bndl.v, and be sipped It carefully, Imv. lug due regard for bis mouth ami tongue. Hut time pressed, nud. with n parting glance at tbe dock, be rencheil for bis glass of lee witter nnd prepared to pour some of the frigid lltild into his cup. "Don't spoil your coffee, young man," nn lil nn elderly gentleman, who wns eating his breakfast on the other side of the table. "Yon take till tho good out of It by putting Ice or Ice-water In II." The clerk wns nt first Inclined to re sent the Interference, but the patri archal appearance of the other ninn tempered his resentment. "What am I to do?" be asked. "I mn lute for the oflice. ami I want this coffee Imdly." "Let me show yen a little scheme," said the elderly unit). Taking the cylindrical salt cellar from the tnlile. be wiped It carefully with a napkin, then reaching over, deposited Ihe slass Vessel In the cup nf coffee. "Salt, you know, has peculiar cool Ing ' properties," lie said, meanwhile holding the receptacle firmly In posi tion. "They put It with Ice to luten sify the cold when making Ice-cream. It Is used extensively lu cold storage warehouses for cooling purposes, and being Incased In glass docs not affect Its power to any great extent." As he spoke be withdrew the salt cellar from the coffee nud motioned to the you nuer mini to ill Ink. He raised the cup to bis lips, ami to his surprise found the liquid pooled to such nn extent that be could drink It without Inconvenience. "The uses of salt are manifold." said Ihe elderly man with the nlr of one be ginning a litftiire. "I remember once when I was In Mexico " But tbe clerk, with another glance nt the clock, thanked blm profusely nnd dashed out of the restaurant. New York Mall and Express, Tha Tort anil tha Clm lr. Getting a check cashed is no easy matter sometimes. A poet solved the difficulty lust week pretty successfully. Walking into the Fifth Avenue Bunk he said to the cashier, "I don't suppose you will cash this check without I am Identified?" The cashier seemed to agree with him that something ot the sort would be required and bunded him over to the manager. The latter scanned the check nnd said: "Well, I know your writings, but I have not bad the pleasure of meeting your be fore." The poet said the disappoint ment hud been mutual. Then there wus a pause. "Have you got anything about you, except letters, which would be likely to lead to your Identifica tion?" The poet said be hud not. "Well." hummed the manager, "have you. for Instance, any initials In your hat?" The poet said he had not, but If the manager would allow him five minutes' grace, he would go round to the nearest hatter's and have them put in. Then there wus a mutual smile. "Have yon a cnrdV" The poet had. As this did not seem to sutlsfy the dis penser of cash, the poet at last said with a sigh, "You say you know my writings?" "Yes!" "Well, I will sit clown now, and write you a poem "Mr. ," hurriedly ejaculated Ihe mauuger, "we will cush your check!" And he did it nt once. The Journalist. Vlrohow anil Ilia Wax. The late Professor Vlrchow was, In his own country, nt least, almost as tu itions for bis excessive blunt ness of speech ns for his very remarkable mental attainments, says the Philadel phia Press. Often he spoke so unfed iugly to the students who sat un tier blm lu the lecture rooms that they have been kuown to leave bis classes and not return. According to Berlin traditions ouo of the professor's favor Ite replies to a wrong answer to one of hit) questions was: "Certainly not. Any cook would know better than that." On tho other hand he seemed to np predate the spirit lu some of his stu dents which prompted them to answer him back In very much his own tone. Once, when he was presiding in a very old nud faded suit of clothes he turned suddenly upon u seemingly bashful man sitting near him and asked: "Do your eyes tell you the truth? What color is this coat ot miucV" Without an instant's hesitation the young man rose and said: "I presume It was once black. Now It Is any color except white." That student was passed. Ill Family Hotel. Innovations along tho Hues of do mestlc economy in New York City follow each other lu such quick sue cession that they become institutions before they are heralded. A $2,500,000 family hotel Is to bo erected at tbe southwest corner of Sixtieth street and Fifth avenue which will aim to solve the servant problem. To attract fam ilies tbe hotel will have unusually largo and high rooms and will provide servants. Though the lessee of the hotel will have a large force of help tenants will be permitted to briug their own servonfc If they choose. Accord ingly, each suite of apurtmcnts will have servants rooms. The hotel is to have fifteen stories and a froutage of fifty feet In Fifth avenue and 200 feet In Sixtieth street. A roof garden Is one of the contemplated features. There will he a cafe In connection and In tha basement will be safety deposit vaults. There will bt bachelor suites of two, tares and four rooms. New York City. Simple waists al ways possess nn Inherent charm and are essentially smart. This attractive May Mnuton model Is shown in penu de cynge, in reseda with stitcbltigs of cortlcelll silk lu n darker simile. Is trimmed wllh drop buttons of open work silver and makes part of :he entire gown; but the design stilts all gown and waist materials, the odd bodice as well ns the costume. The foundation lining Is smoothly and snugly fitted and closes at tbe cen tre front. The waist proper consists of a plain back and deeply tucked fronts and closes Invisibly beneath the tuck to the left of the centre In con formity with the accepted stylo of the season. The back Is drawn down nt the waist line but the frouts blouse ItLOUSE Oil SHIKT WAIST slightly over the belt. Over the shoul der seams nre applied pointed sirups thot fall over the sleeves and glvo the long shouldered effect. The sleeves nre full nnd are finished witli pointed cuffs At the neck Is n stock that Is cut to a point at the centre front. Tho quantity of material required for tbe medium size Is four yards twenty-one Inches vide, three nnd seven-eighth yards twenty-seven Inches wide or two and three-eighth yards forty-four Inches wide. - Graceful anil ICftVctlv. Double breasted waists are essential ly smart ami have the added merit of being generally becoming. The stylish May Manton model shown in tho large drawing Is adapted to all waist materials, silk, wool, linen aud cotton, nnd to the fashionable shirt waist suit as well us to tbe odd blouse. In the case of the orlgluul It ts made of sago green albatross stitched with black aud trimmed with small buttons showing black, green nnd gold. The lining tits snugly uud extends to the waist line only aud closes ut the centre front. Both the fronts uud back ot the waist are tucked anil stitched flat, the back for Its entire length, tlio fronts to yoke depth, aud are arranged over tho foundation. The back Is smooth nnd snug, but the frouts nre guthered and the blouse slightly. Th right front Is lapped over tho left to close in double breasted style. Tbe sleeves are the new bishop sort aud are amply full above tbe cuffs. The ueck ts finished with a bund over which Is tho regulation stock. The quantity of material required for the medium size Is four yards twen-ty-ouo Inches wide. Hi tee and three fourth yards twenty-seven Inches wide, three uud oue-half yards thirty-two luches wide or two nnd ouu-elghth yards forty-four Inches wide. Skirts laid lu generous pleats that coueeul the seams aud are stitched flat at their upper portions, are among tbe latest showu nnd are eminently grace ful aud effective. The smart model shown lu the large drawing is shaped with nine gores that allow only uarrow paces between the pleats which pro Tide fulness ami with tha flare on each CHAmilNG, RIMr-LB Hill tIT WAIST. LATEST- gore give a stylish flounce effect where they full free. Tho skirt Is cut In nine gores that widen perceptibly ns- they approach the lower edge nnd nre specially adapted to narrow goods. At each seam, so nrrnimed us to cover It. Is a deep pleat that Is stitched Hat to flounce depth. At the buck Is n flat In verted pleat that gives the requisite snug fit about tlie hips yet provides ful ness below. The lower portion falls It soft full folds that give n flounce effect. To cut tills skirt in the medium size ten and flve-elglilli yards of material t weuly-oiie Inches wide, seven nnd one fourth yards twenty-seven Inches wide, seven and one-fourth yards thirty-two Inches wide or four nnd three-fourth yards forty-four Inches wide will be required. Vrlret fnmHge Vlnleta. Something of an Innovation In tha artificial flower Held, both for millinery and corsage use. Is the violet scented velvet violet. In shape nnd shading it Is ns near the natural product as any manufacture may be, and only the most sensitive olfactory nerves could detect a difference In odor. Wmnnn'a Wanna. Invisible or Princess closings with yoke effvcls nre seen upon many of the latest and smartest waists. This styl ish May Miinton model Includes both features, the tucking lieing graduated to give a yoke effect nt the front, with tine of the newest collars and the fash ionable full sleeves. The original Is of plaid loulslne silk, cut bins nnd trimmed with pipings of black velvet and carved metal buttons, but all wnistlng materials nre appropriate, silk, wool and cotton. Tbe waist Is made over a fitted lln- AND NINE-f 'OftED SKIRT. lug that closes at the centre front separately from tin.- outside, but which can bo omitted whenever washable fabrics are used or less warmth Is de sired. The waist consists of a smooth fitting buck and of fronts that are stitched In tluy tucks at the neck nud shoulders, with, a wide tuck on each front, that meet In the centre nnd cover the hems through which the Invisible closing Is made. The buck Is gnthered and drawn down snugly nt the waist line, but the fronts blouse slightly over tliu belt. The right front edge is lapped over tho left beneath the wide ttlcks so bringing the edges together. The sleeves are full and are flulsbed with cuffs cut to match the pretty col- 8MABT BLOU8B. lur. The stock Is tbe regulation on with the addition of tbe turn-over portion. Tbe quantity ot materlul required for tbe medium slse Is four and one-eighth yards twenty-ouo inches wide, three and seven-eighth yards twenty-seven Inches wide, three aud oue-olghth yards thirty-two Inches wide or two and one eighth yards forty-four Inches wlda. -