Jewelry Mem.
Sea gentle are favored for summer
belt buckles.
La Valllercs will flourish on the
summer girl's ueck.
Finest Kilt filigree flnlRhes some of
the loveliest a.ioll comba.
Rhinestone belt buckles for the
back are either oblong or oval.
Cupid Is lugged In, however, as a
summer scene Is not complete minus
the little Rod.
It Is different with turquoises, espe
cially turquoise matrix, which has
been brought to shame by floods of
dime Imitations. Philadelphia Rec
ord. Knnereeanltlve lillilren.
There are children born Into the
world in these days of nervous and In
dustrial strain and ctrife so highly
strung, ho intensely sensitive, that
they shrink from u sharp word as some
natures would not recoil from the
ting of a whip. A curt reprimand
v 111 bring the tears welling to the
yes of such a child and a sob to Its
throat. A sensitive, plant will die
under rough treatment that may be
given a hardier plant with perfect
impunity. Children are very like flow
ers. Some of them require moro light,
more warmth, more care, moro con
sideration, more direct manifestation
of affection than others do. Denied
these they never attain their fullest
possible development, hut are often
tiopelesaly dwarfed. Rochester Her
ald. .
The Hon Hunntirnl.
It Is no longer a simple matter to
find an odd and pretty boa, so quickly
are all tho new ideas snapped up and
made common.
One very pretty one Is of bluish
mauve chiffon, fringed with hyacinths.
This is for wear with a theatre gown.
A white chiffon boa is spotted with
velvet pastilles and interlined with
plush. A Marie Antoinette boa is of
rose-hued chiffon, the flat pleats con
fined by a trellis-work of forget-me-nots
and button roses. Another is a
cascade of point d'Alencon frills, fall
ing above and beneath a collar of em
broidery in faint tints and gold on
au Ivory ground very quaint and
very French In effect.
Cur for I'aeven Blionldare.
Doctora end tailors have noticed
that the numoer of patients and cus
tomers who have, uneven shoulders
re increasing. Tho right shoulder Is
usually higher than the left. Thli
Is true especially of men engaged In
office or literary work. The effect Is
due to the way men sit or write at
their desk3. The right elbow rests
on tho desk, throwing one shoulder
higher than the other. Few persons
when writing keep the shoulders erect.
The reason that few women clerks are
so affected Is because the most of
them use thee typewriter, which forces
them to sit more erectly.
When you notice that you are af
fected the best thing to do is to change
your way of sitting at your desk. Two
simple exercises win help you out.
The arm of the lower shoulder should
be extended unward, the hand grasp
ing a dumbbell; that or the higher
shoulder should be lowered and be
made to support a heavy weight.
fthlrtwalata of Crash.
From crash are evolved Borne of the
smartest models of strikingly novel
aspect Shirts come of this loosely
woven fabric In blue a dull, odd
shade, which reminds one of the blue
peasants' costumes in the pictures of
Breton and Dutch humble folk the
painters send from abroad; also in
tan and in gray, the latter being espe
cially stylish. These waists are made
with six half-Inch aide pleats on each
side, turning toward the arm and
stitched to have the effect of box
pleats. The waist closes with four
vtry large pearl buttons set on box
pleat two inches wide. The back is
ornamented with six three on each
side of the narrow pleats, which con
verge becomingly to the waist line,
The fullness of the sleeves is gathered
into a two-inch-wide straight cuff. To
wear with the waist Is a stock with
turnover and tie of white lawn, hem
stitched and edged with a narrow bor
der of blue crash. The tie finishes
with a natty little bow In front. Bos'
ton Herald.
The Gowning aT Waraen.
These are days when, as Shakes
peare says, "rooks and daws and maid
ens bleach their summer frocks." The
summer frock is a concomitant of
warm weather that we would not will
ingly do without. However much they
may delight in young leaves on the
elm, the perfume of lilac-blossoms,
the morning notes of the birds, and
other outdoor matters that poets like
to sing of, mankind in general.'If they
are oueat, will tell you that the chief
Joy 01 the season is In the privilege
of looking at, and being with, care
fully gowned women. Here is one
note of spring that the city man has
oftener than his country cousin. The
latter may see green fields and run
ning brooks, but the former sees moro
marvelous frocks and frills. Thin
habit of spring gowning is a good
thing. , Daintily dressed women,
whether their frocks be of silk or of
muslin, help to make the world blight
er. They add a great deal to the sunt
of life's cheerfulness. There are very
few women who need any encourage
ment to make themselves attractive;
but If any do, they should realize that
gowning is not merely to be Indulged
in for their own pleasure. It Is a
positive duty. Woman's Home Com
panion. Clilnaaa Malita at School.
One of the Boston kindergartens Is
rtieuded by three tiny Chinese maid
ins. They are demure little things,
says the ttostun Transcript, and do
not. skip or Jump or talk, but their
eyes take In all things that pass or are
passed. Hand in hnnd they linger aud
look into the any shop windows, or
watch tho rushing electric cars with
a wholesome fear of them. They hnve
no eyes for the people, but the people
have eyes and stretching necks for
them. Everybody holds them In view
as long as possible, and no wonder,
for until recently the streets of Bos
ton never saw a Chinese baby tod
dling off to school.
It is, Indeed, something new to al
low a Chinese girl to have any free
dom outside the home walls. These
thlldren no longer wear their native
costumes. They wear their black hair
waved and hanging around their
shoulders like American children, and
the bows of ribbon bringing It back
from their faces are as brave as any
ever worn by daughters of the West.
Their hats are as picturesquely large,
their frocks as crisply short, as those
of our babies; and their feet are 'as
lightly free as their grandmothers'
were tightly bound.
At the kindergarten they are very
quiet moro so than the c'.her chil
dren but they are not Inattentive,
end are very bright and quick when
thry really know what they nre to do.
They nre patient and industrious, and
show no freaks of temper. Their nat
ionality peeps out a bit In their Inven
tion of design in card work. If all
tho children nre given the sam.
r.iigles to do with, the chances are
ten to ono that the Chinese children
will produce a design that Is "Chines
ey." No wonder people look and smile
at these little Chinese babies, for they
are as cunning as dolls.
Tha lllnnee Halt I New.
New ideas are as plentiful as daisies
in summer time. A very new thing is
the blouse belt. This consists of a
wide girdle of black satin. It Is fas
tened with a brllilant buckle, which Is
hooked at one side. Upon the other
side there is i.nother buckle to match.
The idea is that with a blouse waist,
nil baggy in front, the buckle Is hidden
and the proper place for it, therefore,
is upon the side.
The blouse girdle Is pulled down In
front and fastened with a pretty pin.
while tho back Is rolled as small and
as round as possible, the object being
to secure length in front and that
smart, lock at the back which Is nec
essary, If one would be well gowned.
The blouse of the minute Is the
black silk blouse with very large flow
ers In It. This Is the Dolly Varden.
The black material is either silk or
satin and the flowers are very bril
liant, but not vety largo.
The blouse Is cut rounding In the
neck to show the pretty lace chem
lssette, or It Is cut square and finished
with a sailor collar. It Is a very be
coming thing and can be worn fortrav-
ellng, or for afternoon, for It is adapt
ed to a wide variety of uses.
The new blouse sleeve Is very baggy
between the elbow and the wrist, while
at the wrist it is brought In and fitted
to a very tight small, narrow cuff.
The contrast between the bagginess of
the lower arm and the tight cuff is
very pronounced and pretty.
The Russian fancy for weaving a
blouse as a coat Is a growing one. The
muslin or silk shirt waist is worn by
the summerg lrl. But over it there Is
slipped a silk blouse, which buttons
down the front and ties at the low
square neck with a big satin ribbon
bow.
The waist may be finished with a
stiff elastic which is, after all, tho
best way to finish a blouse wuiat. A
strong hook holds it in the front.
If a different finish is desired the Rus
sian blouse can be belted and finished
In front with a big buckle.
An attractive green straw hat is
tiimmed with white hydrangeas with
a little green foliage.
Pearl buttons lend the finishing
touch to collars, cuffs, revers and
strappings on tailored wash dresses.
A single round silver button takes
the place of the usual button of pearl
ou some of the new white kid gloves.
A clever milliner has Introduced a
new form of buckle, having all the
appearance ot straw, but actually made
in enamel.
Wild strawberries, reproduced In
the natural size and color, together
with appropriate foliage, may be seen
on many ot the hats.
A pretty shoulder cape Is made of
bluck accordeon pleated chiffon, bor
t'rred with brown fur and finished at
tho neck with a high, puffy collar of
chiffon.
A white ostrich boa flecked at regu
lar Intervals with cross stripes of
blight green Is one of the pretty things
to be worn with a green and white
evening hat
Chalk-colored cloth which verges on
white and pale gray and does not real
ly belong in either class is a fashion
able fabric. Putty and cloud gray ars
among the favored shades of the sea
son.
"7F vpti
Iraaa far raid CaflVe.
If the coffee lias not been allowed to
stand on the grounds until the flavor
is spoiled yon can use it In many des
serts such as white or yellow custard
preparations using loss milk, accord
ing to the quantity of coffee you have,
or you can use it In frozen cream, or
for any dark cakes Instead of milk or
water. In fact, Its being a liquid you
can use It wherever the flavor of
coffee will be agreeablo in the com
bination. Craam af Strawberries.
Steam a pound and a half of ripe,
sweet strawberries; rub them through a
fine sieve Into a bowl and three table
spoonfuls of powdered sugar and stlv
until the sugar Is dissolved. Heat one
quart of creamer rich milk, mix two
tablcspoontuls of rrowroot In a lit
tle cold milk to dissolve it and stir
It into the hot milk; stir and let cook
for a few minutes to thicken. Put the
puree of strawberries Into a d!sh and
when the cream Is cooled pour it over
them and stand it in a cold place for
the cream to set. Heap whipped cream
or the whites of six eggs beaten to a
stiff froth over the top. The cream or
eggs may be colored with a little
vegetable coloring peste.plnk or Green,
If desired. Decorate with a few whole
huge berries.
Making flrnrle for ltirallilii.
Preparing food for on Invalid or for
a convalescent is a thankless task at
best. There Is nothing very inspiring
to tho cook in gruels and teas of the
various sorts, but since there will al
ways be a somewhat steady demand
for these uninteresting foods. It Is
well to know how they should be
cooked and why one way is better
than another. Gruels which are mix
tures of grain or flour and water or
water and milk need more careful at
tention than do many French dishes,
To be easy of digestion, gruels must
be thoroughly cooked, and therefore
the milk, when it is added at all,
should be added only when the graTh
has been well cooked In water first,
If the water has evaporated In cook'
Ing, the original quantity must be re
stored before putting in the milk and
the milk be hot boiling and loses much
of Its agreeable taste. Another point
about gruels Is that they should be
drunk slowly. The action of the sa
llva upon the starch is considerable,
and therefore the more slowly the
gruel Is taken the more easily will it
digest.
Tho skill In gruel making comes In
when one knows how to vary the
flavor so as to render the food appe
tilling. Sweet gruel is far from pleas
ant, yet it is well often to add a very
little Bugar. Cinnamon, grated lemon
peel, vanilla, nutmeg and almond are
flavorings that may be used at dis
cretion. Flour gruel is one in which
any of these flavorings is used, al
though when It is intended for a fever
ish patient a little lemon Juice Is rec
ommended. To make it with cinna
mon, for instance, mix one tablespoon
ful of flour, one teaspoonsful of sugar
and one saltspoonful of salt together
and moisten with two tablespoonful ot
cold water, working to a smooth paste.
Now add one cupful of boiling water
and a bit of stick cinnamon. Boil
gently for 20 minutes, taking especial
care that it does not burn. Now add
one cupful of hot milk and let the
mixture Just reach the boiling point.
This !b to be served very hot and
should be strained to Insure perfect
freedom from lumptness.
nouaeliold Hints.
Windows should be cleaned with
chamois skin.
A pinch ot salt added when eggs are
being beaten up makes them froth
faster.
Wash canp'Beats with hot water con
taining lemon; soak well; leave in air
to dry.
Coarse brown paper, such as is imed
by butchers, is beat for draining fried
things upon.
A lamp wick should never be allowed
to crowd the tube. If tight, pull out
two or three threads lengthwise.
Did you ever try brlckdust to clean
agatewear? It is less expensive Kan
other articles sold tor such purposes,
and far moie effectual.
In frying with a frying basket al
ways heat the basket before putting it
in the fat, as when put In cold it takes
too much heat from the fat
Strange as it may seem, a clear day
Is much better for making fruit Jellies
than a cloudy one, as the atmosphere
affects the boiling point of sugar.
Varnish for floors, woodwork or fur
niture is no longer considered desira
ble. A soft finish produced by rub
bing Is the accepted thing tnese days.
Do not have a cast-iron rule that
things In your home fitments must
match. Ofteu monotony is the result.
Sometimes varying materials of har
monious coloring are to be preferred to
those that match.
In using the white woe ' -irk so fash
ionable now be careful lo get a yel
lowish or ivory white Instead of the
cold blue white. The latter is decld
edly harsh; a much softer effect is ob
tained from the ivory tone.
Few people realize how infinitely
superior to the One white turnip Is the
common yellow one. Try boiling this
vegetable with a bit of garlic, add
black pepper and a good lump ot but
ter, and you will never use the whit
sort again
mi
FIRE, SMOKE AND LAVA.
A few Timely Note Abont Volcanls
Krnpttont.
Immediately before or at the com
mencement of eruptions the water In
neighboring wells falls nnd the sea
recedes, followed by a returning
wave.
Though great volcanic activity may
b noted at particular periods!, yet sym
pathy between the eruptive energy at
any two well sepnrnted vents has not
been found with certainty to exist.
Antecedent to eruptions, earth
quake., earthquake shocks or earth
tremors occur, especially nnd more
violently previous to the opening of
new vents, as at Jorullo and Monte
Nuovo, and after long dormancy, as
before the first historic eruption ot
Vesuvius.
Enormous flows of lava have oc
curred wothout explosive effects, and
there are vast beds of lava rock that
have not been whon fluid associated
with any volcanic cones, as In Antrim,
Abyssinia and Idaho.
Steam Is most abundant and sea
alt a prominent product of explosive
eruptions, and all the elements ot sea
valor are contained In the ejectmtnta
of explosive volcanoes.
Active volcanoes, with few excep
tions, are either In the sea (Insular
or submarine) or are on coasts either
contiguous to or at but little distance
f.om tht sea.
Inland extinct volcanoes were near
the sea or sea-like lakes at the period
of their activity, as In Auvergne and
and Hunpnry.
The extinction of volcnnlr activity
has followed the removal of the const
line to a very moderate distance, as
in the Roman Campagna.
Volcanic action has gone on for
long periods of time in many areas
without causing any surface derange
ment, except the building up of eones
or the rupture ot very small areas.
The outputs of volcanic eruptions
relatively to the bulk of the globe
are Individually Infinitesimal, and
their aggregate forms only a small
part of even the visible surface of the
earth.
Astronomical calculations, ocean
tides and the general stability of land
and sea during long periods demon
strate great rigidity of the solid ex
terior of tho globe, and consequently
a great thickness of solid rocky sub
structure.
All scientific Investigation seems to
demonstrate that active volcanoes are
due to the sea. which, by giving Its
waters In sufficient volumes when lava
il ascending, produces that explosive
and rending force that opens a new
vent at the surface and adds a vol
cano to the globe. This explains that
wonderful association ' of volcanoes
with the sea that so markedly char
acterlzes their distribution. Philadel
phia Record.
Prosperity and Literature,
Henry B. Fuller, In an article In the
Chicago Evening Post, notes the inter
esting fact that our national literature
suffers from our prosperity. Though
Mr. Fuller's idea Is aot new, it is nev
ertheless worth repeating. As an ex
ample of the uses of adversity In de
velopment ot great fiction, Mr. Fuller
cites Nlnteenth Century Russia. Says
he:
"The greatest national fiction ot the
nineteen century grew up under the
bllgh.' g shadow of autocracy,' with
a threatening accompaniment of lm
prlsonment, exile, excommunication
and death. The works ot Dostolewsky,
Gogol, Turgeny and Tolstoi, let us
bear In mind, were never written to
amuae the leisure of prosperous per
sons fatigued by the mere attainment
of their prosperity. Greater concerns
were in these men's minds and hearts,
The Russian plow turned up a deep
and tragic furrow, and a rich harvest
came In significant response. With us
the plow ot experience has but scratch'
ed along the surface, and a light and
facile crop Is the suitable return. Our
one great doep experience as a nation,
tho civil war, found us inarticulate,
save for a small New England group,
and timidly provincial in our atiltude
toward tho established art canons of
the elder world; and while, in the
present day, we are articulate to
surprising and even to a distressing
degree, the mediocrity that attend on
mere material prosperity has seriously
qualified the value of our utterance.'
Are Kngllahinen Deteriorates?
Earl Grey writes in the London
Mail that Englishmen are deteriorat
ing. His reasons are these:
1) The towns draw the vigor and
stamina on which the maintenance ot
their prosperity depends from a con
stant infusion of fresh country blood.
(2) This regenerating stream is
running lewer and lower every day,
and threatens before long to cease to
flow at all.
It these two premises are correct,
and I am not aware that they are
questioned by serious men, we are
brought face to face with the terrible
conclusion that unless the present tide
of humanity which keeps flooding into
the towns can be checked and ebbed
back upon the country a slow but in
evitable extinction must be our miser
able fate.
A Swinging Bridge,
A new bridge terry is to be built at
Nantes, France, to transport freight
cars over the River Loire. The bridge
will consist of two steel towers 487 feet
apart, connected by a horizontal track
162 feet above the water. An Inverted
steel truck will run on this truck and
by cable-suspenders carry a ferry-pltt-form
40 feet square and having a maxi
mum capacltyof 60 tons. The estimat
ed cost ot the bridge is $199,000 and it
will be completed in 1903. The fewy
will also carry foot passengers, carts,
etc.. for which toll will be charged.
SCIENCE AND INDUSTRY.
Tungsten, worth eighty rents a
pound, Is largely used In metallurgy,
and gives to steel qualities similar to
those Imparted by molybdenum.
During the year 1901. thirty-six as
teroids were discovered, all but one
of them at Heidelberg, by means of
photography. The asteroid group Is
now known to have 475 members. No.
475 is especially Interesting from Its
great southern declination when dis
covered HI to degrees, for the large
escentrlclty of Its orbit and for the
sm.illness of its perliiellun distance
1.6 times that of the earth. It-was dis
covered at the Harvard college station,
at Arequlpa, Peru.
Both Darwin and Sir John Lubbock
have expressed the belief that ants are
In the habit of planting the seeds
of a grass known as ant-rlce, for the
purpose of providing themselves with
a crop of the sedes for food. The fact
that the grass Is often found growing
abundantly near their nests lends
plausablllty to the theory, but Profes
sor Wheeler says that ail this Is ac
cidental. The ants store the seeds, or
rice, in their nests as food, and when
a grain begins to sprout they carry
It out ot the nest. To say that they
really sow tho seeds, he claims, Is as
absurd as to say that a rook Is plant
ing and maintaining an orchard when
she throws Into the yard the stones of
the peaches she is using, and they
happen to grow Into trees.
The theory of sound is that It Is
caused by vibrations In the air, and
that when it passes through a solid ob
ject, like a wall, these vlbrntlons are
Imparted to the particles that compose
tho object. It has long been believed
that lead Is one of the poorest con
ductors ot sound, poorer, for example,
than glass; but experiments lately
made show that sound passes more
readily through a lead wall than a
glass one. These experiments were re
ported at a meeting of the American
Physical society, the conclusion drawn
being that the medium that yields
most to steady pressure Is the best
conductor. This it at variance with
the views generally held on this sub
ject, and will give rise, no doubt, to
much discussion and to further experi
ments. The recent announcement In several
quarters that a new remedy for cancer
had been discovered In plasters made
from the common violet flower and its
leaves gives some Interest to the true
therapeutic action of the latter. It Is
by no means new In medicine, having
been employed as a domestic remedy
In ancient Rome. The whole plant of
viola odorata (the sweet violet) con
tains an acrid poisonous principle
named by its discoverer, Boullay, in
1828, "vlollne." This poison Is a white
or pale yellow acrid powder, somewhat
soluble in water and alcohol, and hav
lng powerful emetic properties. Small
doses ot the root act as a tonic; larger
ones as a purgative, and In doses ot
from 40 to 60 grains It is an emetic,
The odoriferous principle of the flow
ers has not yet been definitely estab
lished.
Professor Forbes ot Edinburgh has
for many years worked on the problem
of determining the position of a planet
more distant than Neptune. The point
of departure of his method is the
theorum announced by Professor New
ton ot Yale In 1879, viz.: It the par
abollc orbits of comets have been
changed to eclipse the changes can
only be due to the Influence of planets,
and the aphelion of the new orbit is,
In all probability, the position that
the comet occupied at the time of the
change. In 1880 Professor Forbes
showed that seven comets have an
aphelion distance ot about one nun
dred times the earth's distance from
the sun. He has recently found a new
comet of this class. The comet of 1556
Is Identified by him with a comet re
discovered in 1844. Its orbits had been
disturbed by a planet with a mass con
slderably greater than that ot Jupiter
at a distance of about one hundred
times the earth's distance, and calcu
latlon shows that the longitude of this
planet would be at present about 181
degrees. The method followed by Pro
fessor Forbes is necessarily difficult
and slow. It is likely that the extra
Neptunian planet. If Indeed It exists,
will be discovered by the comparison
of photographic plates of the sky,
Several astronomers are now at work
on the problem.
Largeet of Flying Blrde.
For some time past the male con'
dor at the London Zoo has been wld
owed ot his mate, who departed this
life at an advanced age, says the
Westminster Gazette. A new lady
condor has Just arrived to take her
place. The pair together form really
one ot the finest exhibits at those gar
dens; their large size and the per
fectly white ruff, which is literally a
feather boa, surrounding the neck
give to this bird a very distinguished
(.ppearance. The condor has also the
additional distinction of being the
largest ot living flying birds, and, like
Rome, Beems to have been built al
most for eternity. The condor lives for
a very long time. ' It charms the ex
pert ornithologist on account of the
paradox that It has put on the garb
ot the vulture but 1b not actually very
uearly related to those birds of prey.
, An Automobile Home.
The largest automobile In the world
is being constructed for a Parisian doe
toi. In it, accompanied by two medi
cal students, he Intends to make a trip
around the world. It will have .two
stooping apartments, a large workroom
and four big tanks for storing oil.
Chicago Journal.
m IIS" P
New York City. Fancy blouses, with
big pointed collars that open to reveal
contrasting fronts, nre among the lat
est fentures of the season ami have
the added merit of suiting almost all
figures. The smnrt May Mnnton de
sign Is shown In Pompadour slllc show
ing a -white ground, with collar of white
taffetn, full frout and frills of chiffon
and trimming of cream lace and medal
lions. With it Is -worn a soft stock
with cravatte that mutches the waist,
but all silks, soft wools mid tho many
charming cotton fabrics are appro
priate.
The foundation Is a fitted lining that
closes at the centre frout. The waist
proper consists of fronts nnd bnck
and is arranged over the foundation,
WOMAN'S FAKCr BLOUSE.
'A SMART OUTING COSTUME.
closing invisibly beneath the left front.
The buck Is smooth across the shoul
ders and drawn down In gathers at
the waistline, but the fronts nre slight
ly full at the belt where they blouse
styllBhly and becomingly. To tho wnlst
Is seamed the big ornamental collar.
The centre front Is soft nnd full, is
shirred across with tiny tucks at In
tervals, and finished with n stock col
lar. The sleeves nre In elbow length,
with soft frills, but these last can be
cut longer nnd converted Into puffed
under-slecvo of full length gathered nt
tho wrists Into straight cuffs of lace.
To cut this blonso for a woman of
medium size three and a quarter yards
'of material twenty-ono Inches wide,
three and one-eighth yards twenty
seven Inches wide, two and seven
eighth thirty-two Indies wide or two
and a half yards forty-four inches wide
will bo required, with two and a half
yards of chiffon, for full front and
under-sleeves and five-eighth yard of
contrasting material for collar.
A Smart Outing Coatmnc.
Outing costumes made with short
skirts and blouse coats are essentially
smart, and have the merit of being
comfortable as well. The stylish May
Manton model, shown in the large
Illustration, Is made of gray Panama
canvas stitched with cortleelll Bilk, and
is worn with a hat ot Panama straw
and a shirt waist of white linen.
The blouse is eminently simple. The
back Is plain and smooth, without full
ness, but the fronts, while plain across
the shoulders, have the fullness stylish
ly arranged at tho waist line and
droop slightly over the belt. The neck
is finished with a regulation coat col
lar and notched lapels, and a pocket
Is Inserted in the left front. The sleeves
are in coat style slightly bell-shaped at
the bands. When the bnsque exten
sion Is used it Is Joined to the blouse
beneath the belt
The skirt Is cut In five gores that
are shaped to avoid darts at the hips
and that widen below the knees. The
flounce Is circular, curved to be amply
full, and Is seamed to the lower edge,
so giving a more becoming effect than
la possible when arranged over the
skirt Ths fullness at the back is sr-
rnnpied in Inverted pleats that nre
stitched flat for u few incites below:
the waist. ,
The quantity of material required
for the medium sign Is nine and n balf
yards twenty-seven Inches wide, five
three-quarter yards forty-four Inches
wide or five yards fifty-four Inches
wide; for the blouse alone three and n
qmirreryardstwetity-sevcu Inches wide,
one nnd three-quarter yards forty-four
Inches wide or ono nnd five-eighth ranis
forty-four Inches wide: for the skirt
alone eight yards twenty-seven Inches
wide, four nnd three-eighth yards forty-four
Inches wide or two nnd a third
yards fifty-four Inches wide.
A Novelty In I'attlrnnt.
A novelty In petticoats is Ihe Polly
Varden. It Is made of printed lawn,
with one, two or three graduated
flounces, and Is pretty and appropriate
for glnghnm, pongep or other thin dress
fabric that Is not sheer. White skirts
nre In greater demand than ever, nnd
may be had In the trained style with,
rich and elaborate trimming, for even
ing wear, or in the handsome walking'
skirt variety, or the simpler styles for
ordinary service on dusty days.
The I.atrnt hi Shirt TfaUta.
The newest thing In shirt waists Is
the glass linen. This Is nothing more'
nor less than the coarse white linen,
with crossbars of blue or red, used for
polishing table glass. It makes up
prettily and is immensely serviceable.
A Hnmlitaine Skirt.
Long trained skirts make -ssentlal
parts of correct brldnl costumes. The
exceedlngly handsome May Manton
design is perfectly adapted to that use,
and is both absolutely new and grace
ful, but becomes suited to simpler oc
casions also by curtailing Its length.
As shown, the material Is white silk
with trimming of Duchess lace iu
bauds, medallions and butterfly bows,
n full ruclio of chiffon finishing the
lower edge, but all white bridal ma
terials are appropriate when tho gown
Is to be worn upon the most momen
tous occasion In a woman's life, nil
handsome dress materials for the
trained skirt designed for other uses.
The original Includes a circular flounce
on front nnd sides, but can be made
plain if preferred.
The skirt Is cut In seven gores, two
of which form the train. The flounce
is fitted to front and sides and can be
A BIVSX-QOBKD TBAINIO SKIRT.
applied over the material or the latter
can be cut oft at t'. iudlcated depth
and the tlouuce seamed to tho lower
edge.
To cut this skirt iu tho mediant sum
fifteen and a half yards of material
twenty-one Inches wide, fourteen yards
twenty-seven inches wide or eight and
a balf yards forty-four inches wide will
be required, '
-T21;le
A