f
L
A VICTIM OF REFORH.
How the Captain of the Coaster San Antonio Wat Undone.
By John Fleming Wilton.
The Ban Antonio was a square-stern-d,
slender tunneled coiatcr. not beau
tiful or shapely, but profitable. So
profitable, Indeed, that she was now
being painted nnd her skipper had gone
East to get married.
To the friends of Captain Van Olin
da tha two farts were IndicntUe of a
revolution. To think that the grimy
Ban Anton' should glory In fresh col
ore! To think that her st'fMegged,
heavy-handed, hoarse-voiced tyrant
should take a wife! Now that the day
e,pproaohcd when the bridal pair were
expected, the mate and engineer grew
strangely uneasy. "I don't like It a
bit." said the maie. "1 tell yon, En,
when a scarred old rufflnn like the
skipper gets a wife, there's trouble
brewing. Why, he can't even get along
with UB."
Ben Harris, the chief engineer, grunt
ed amiably, "Oh, you take It too hard,
8am. One 'ud think It was you. In
stead of Van, that was getting spliced.
It won't make any such tremendous
difference to you and me. We'll just
work on twenty-four hours a day, same
as usual. Old man may beef around
a little more, may lat the mess-boy a
little oftener, but I reckon we'll make
about the same number of revolutions
per minute. Nothing makes much dif
ference to me, s' long as I have boilers
made of tomnto-tlns. 1 horrify to
think what'U happen some day when
they get really hot up."
"Go on," grumbled the mate; "you
ait around in any old weather and
watch your stew-puns, and run that
egg-beater engine of yours, while I'm
trying to tell by the color of the wa
ter where we're at, and hanging old
clothes on a rotten clothes-line to try
and. claw off a lee-shore. And then,
when the old man finds we've gone
back twenty miles Instead ot fetching
fifty, he, blames me."
"So he does, so he docs. And I
s'pose you'll be pretty soro when they
be two of 'em to cuss you. Likely
enough the new niis6us is ten feet long,
and has an arm as heavy as a packing
case. But she can't fool with me. If
she does, I'll accidentally rock up
against the maln-steara anc: scald her to
death. Bay' Sum, have ye got some
good, stiff pvitty? The donkey-boiler's
fcot a hole In it, and I'd like to patch
It I've used up all the oiler's shoes
already on that hole. Somehow, leath
er won't hold."
The r&ato gave no response to this
pleasantry, and went forward to hit
a deck-hand who was over-acxiously
tightening a fast
It was on a fine February afternoon
that Cap'aln and Mrs. Van Olinda were
met at the gangway of the San Antcnlo
by tha mate.
Hello, Satn!" shouted the skipper.
"How's every thing? '
"First-rate, sir," a.iswered the mate,
with one eye on the "mlzrus."
"Sah, this is my wife, Mrs. Van
Olinda," said the captain, proudly.
"Mrs. Van, this is Mr. rwlzle, my
mate," ,
"Mr. Twlzzlo, I'm glad tc meet you,"
responded the lady.
"So'ra 1," paid the mate, after a pause
of decperation. For the lcdy, into
whose face he was looking, was a
wholesome, clear-eyed matron of per
haps thirty-five the opposite of all he
had fancied. The husband did cot no
tice bis mate's embarrassment, but in
stentorian notes he was calling: "Ben!
Ben Harris! Hang you, Ben, where
do you keep yourself?"
The engineer rose out of the engine-
room depths and walked steadily up
with outstretched hand. "Glad to see
yon back, sir. Congratulations com
Wit
JFOQ
plir
pliments" this last to the lady.
'Jr. ..Harris, I'm pleased to make
your acquaintance," said Mrs. Van
Olinda, without waiting for her hue
kand. - .
"Hope youll never regret it," an
swered the chief, politely. He, too,
was surprised, but he plumed himself
cm never showing his feelings.
It was late that evening before the
San Antonio reached her new place
cm San Francisco water-front. When
all was fast for the night, the mate and
engineer washed away the most of the
Time and went aft to dinner. The lit
tle saloon WAS anlek find enun In tieur
white paint, and, to the mate's dis
gust an inadvertent placing of his
band on the bulkhead left a smut un
mistakable. "And I just washed it,"
he muttered to the engineer.
"P'raps it was the other one," sug
gested the chief.
This did not mend matters, nnd they
OeVoured their meal in silence. But
. with a full stomach there usually steals
over the noinial wan a sense ot the
completeness of life, and a vatjue ap
preciation of blessing. Both the offi
cers of the San Antonio yielded to this,
and over their pipes they sought each
the other's opinion on the new mistress
jf their ship.
"She's too good for him," said Har
ris. Anally. - . .
"I'm not s sure ot that." replied
Twlr.r.le. "It. doesn't lower any fo-'
anan to marry a good,, skillful (seaman.
And he evidently sets his 'course to
please her. They're gone to the play
tonight"
Bo the mess-boy told me when I was
cleaning up."
"WeH. now, Ben, doesn't that show
he's bound to do the square thing?
Hut but that I agree with you that ahe's
all right. Somehow, she reminds me
of my mother."
-"liookee here," suggested the mate.
"The old skipper's married, see?
. What's te binder us getting a few wed-
i f ' presents ourselves? I need new
w
stores sails and such and you are
forever cnsnln' your boilers. D'ye
s'poso we could get 'em?"
"Sort o' mean," answered tho engi
neer, "sort o' mean to mix her up with
our troubles. Though, by Jlnxa, sho
will be mixed up anyway if the lid ever
comes off thoe-e pots below. We don't
know but what he might welcome some
trouble like that. .Marriage is uncer
tain in Its efTi-cta on some people."
For thre days they stowed cargo for
a run north to Portland, and the cap
tain watched operations without any
suspicion that his vocabularlc mate
and tinkering engineer had conspired
against bin-. fcr his own good. The last
case was lowered Into the hoi J; the
last unruly bundle of iron blasphemed
into Its place, and the San Antonio put
out Into the channel and headed for the
Golden Gate. It was clear and WErm,
and under the declining sun the try
stretched Into a shimmering glory of
dazzling, sparkllrg beauty. Mm. Van
Olinda answered her husband's call and
camo up to the ridiculously small
bridge. With quiet eyes she watch
ed tin solemn ferry-boats trundle by,
the shins lying in the stream .with
yards, trimmed to a hair, the busy
moles, domineered over by tipsy coal
craft, and above, and about, and
throiuh all the wonderful light of the
sun. With a ne stuie of comprehension
of what all this was to be to her, she
put one hand over the rough fist of her
husband. The mnte turned modestly
away, but he heard her murmur: "Oh,
Van, how I love this!"
That night Twlzzle sought HarrlB In
the engine-room, and, after relating
the above event, asked his opinion? on
It. "D'ye reckon he's going to run her
to suit himself?" he said in conclusion.
The chief swung himself upon an
oil-barrel lashed in the corner, and lit
his pipe. "Who knows?" be said,
finally.
"I don't," the mated admitted.
"Well. I ll tell ye what I think. I
thing all women are very easy han
dled, if you know how to get about
it."
"How do you go about it?'
"Ura-m several have wondered,"
said the engineer. "Personally, I have
an opinion that they're summat like
engines. Ixiok after 'em, keep 'em run
ning in clear water, don't let 'em race
'cniselves sick, and whatever else ye
do never take your eyes off 'em one
minute. Coax, wheedle, pet, talk nice,
and never cuss. Save your cussin' for
a place where it'll do good."
"If Van ever cusses her," the mate
broke out, "I'll hit him sure as I'm
Samuel Twlzzle."
"You're racing now; shut off steam,
Sam. It's not your business, nor mine.
Anyway, that Isn't the question. And
let me tell you," continued Harris
warmly, "that you'll get into trouble
quicker that way than any way I know
of."
The mate felt foolish and started to
ward the deck. "We might suggest oc
casionally," he hinted.
"Oh, yet, suggest if you like not
a baj idea, that You suggest good
stories, and I'll suggest new boilers.
You bet; suggestion 's the safe way."
So the consplratfti-s parted. '
The next day the chief left the en
gines in charge of his assistant, and
smoked a pipe on tho forward deck.
Presently he thought he would look
in on the cook and see how matters
progressed in the galley. To his utter
astonishment he found Mrs. Van Olinda
superintending some culinary opera
tion that was wholly strange to him.
"Come In, Mr. Harris," she said
cheerily, "come in, and try some mar
malade." "Murmalade!" gasped the engineer,
feebly,
"Yes; I'm making it myrclf. It's not
cool yet, but it's good. Here" She
handed him a piece of bread covered
with tbo (Inlet table preserve, and he
bit Into it wonderlngly. "Yes," she
wnt on, "we people from Iowa know
how to make thlrgs like that. To
morrow I'm going to n-.ake apple-butter."
"Why don't you leave it to the
cook?" he asked, .
"To that dirty man?" Why, I had
to tell him lust now to go and wash
his handa. He doesn't know anything.
I'm going to get a good kitchen-girl
that'll keep things decent."
"You haven't a big kettle down
stairs, have you, Mr. Harris?" Mrs.
Van Olinda Inquired with anxiety.
"I can't let you have the donkey
boiler," said Harris, gravely, "it's got
a hole in it, but I might patch it up
for you."
"is it copper or iron? You know apple-butter
ought really to be made in
copper."
"I'm afraid it wouldn't do them,
Mrs. Van," responded the engineer,
fearing tie had gone too far. It's Iron,
and rather dirty."
"I'm sorry, Mr. Harris, for all the
cook's pots are too small. It might
do, even if it Is Iron."
Ben Harris, wiih a face of prodigi
ous solemnity,- thanked her for the
marmalade, and descended hastily to
bis own realm.
An hour later the mate came down,
too full for speech. Harris, who was
reading a novel with one eye on his
engines, looked up st him inquiringly.
"Anything happened?"
"Ye know, Ben, bow filthy the foc's'le
Is?"
"Never was In it?
"Well, It's dirty. Ye see, the deck
above it Isn't well caulked., and the
skipper never would have It done. The
water uiai comes in OoesB t hurt lrro
tl.aMia . . . u V '
"What of it?" growled the engineer.
"What of it! Why, the missus snoops (
for'ard, see's a new place she's not
been Into, and down she goes. Then
up she comes."
"Are ye sick?"
"Go topside and look." With this .
the mate collapsed.
Ben Harris shut his book on a bit of
waste (to keep the place), and went
slowly up the ladder. When he thrust
his head out of the door that gave on
the deck he looked forward. A half
dozen dirty sailors squatted dumbly on
their blankets, while the' captain and
his wife faced each other In anger.
"Filthy hole," she heard Mrs. Van
Olinda say, "and those men sleeping
there! I wouldn't put a dog Into a
cellar like that."
"Plenty good enough for deck
hands," her husband responded.
"I won't have it on this ship," re
torted his wife. "That's settled. That
place has got to be scrubhe-1 and paint
ed before they set foot In It again."
"But " the skipper protested.
"No 'buts' about It"
The captain glared around, anil
caught an uneasy grin on a sailor's
face. "You dirty scare-crow," he
thundered, "Jump down there and clean
that out; all of ye, Jump! What d'ye
mean by keeping your end of the ship
In such condition? Fly, now!"
The sailors tumbled around, and the
engineer withdrew his head. "That
settles it," he murmured to himself.
"Now for new boilers."
That evening the captain called down
the speaking tube to the engineer.
"I'm going to bring my wife down
to see the engines. Is It all right?"
"Sure." With this answer, Harris
railed the oiler and told him to wipe
down the railings on the ladders.
The captain and his wife were receiv
ed most gallantly by the chief. The
mrtlon of the steamer was very gen
tle, and the machinery ran smoothly
and very evenly. Mrs. Van Olinda
looked and admired. Harris had never
approved of "women-folk messing
around an engine," but he carefully
concealed any such feellr.g, If he ex
perienced it, on this occasion.
"Is there any danger?" asked Mrs.
Van, as soon as Ehe recovered from
her first curlotdty.
"None in particular," said Harris,
with a very apparent attempt at evas
ion. v
"None In particular!" she echoed.
"Is there any? Might the boiler ex
plode?" "Not exactly explole," responded the
engineer slowly. "The boilers are too
old for that There wotilein't be much
pop to them. They'd Just open out
sort of gentle and, easy. No; they
wouldn't explode."
The skipper flgeted violently, but
the chief did not (apparently) notice it
"But he steam would come out?"
she continued.
"Yes, ma'am; it comes out now. Of
course. It would come out more then,
and kill whoever was down here."
Mrs. Van Olinda moved back hastily.
"We had steam heat in our house In
Iowa," she explained, "but I never
knew it was dangerous."
"Oh, then you wouldn't mind this
little affair. Why, I e'pose this would
n't heat that house, even if we fired
up extraordinary. Do tell, to think
that after living in a house with real
steam heat, you should care to see
this." Harrls'E voice was very gentle.
He was talking for the skipper's bene
fit But retribution was swift.
"I imagine," the captain roared out
(after long repression), "I Imagine you
think this Is funny."
"Funny?" repeated his wife. "I don't
see anything funny about it Oh, yes,
Mr. Harris, what was the funny kettle
you promised to loan me?"
"I I forget," stuttered the engineer
In, horror.
"Oh, I remember," continued Mrs.
Van Olinda, "it was the donkey-boiler."
"The donkey-boiler!" shouted her
husband.
"Yes, to make apple-butter In. Have
you put that patch on It, Mr. Harris?
1 hope It wasn't an awfully big hole?"
"Excuse me, please," said the engi
neer hastily. "I must see to some
thing." He did not return until his
visitors were gone. But his soul was
at peace. A couple of hours later the
captain appeared alone. Harris looked
non-committal, and handled a heavy
steel spanner gently. But his supe
rior was past fighting, and simply
breathed heavily; "I think, Ben," be
said, presently, "that you might have
joked about something else."
"lxok out for that main steam-pipe.
If you lean on It, it'll break, sure."
"Hang you and your engines! Why
don't you keep them In repair?"
"If you can find anything about my
engines, Cap'n Van Olinda, that ain't
all repair, and re-pair, show me It
I've nursed your blasted pots and pans
just as long as I'm going to. Anybody
but me couldn't make that heap ot
cheap tinware turn a peanut-roaster."
"Well, why didn't 'you say so be
fore," growled the skipper.
"Say ho! Haven't I said so? Then
you risk your wife down here, and 1
don't want her death on my head."
"She seems to be afraid of your life.
She don't know me, you old lummox!"
"Does she still want the donkey-boil
er to make apple-butter In? I ain't
'got &ny further use for It."
The' tantafn turned away, but half
way up the ladder he stopped. "Ben,"
he said meekly, "III put new
boilers In her next tiip. I'll be
clean broke, but I'll !o it. Twlzzle
has already made a list as long as a
woman's tongue ot what be wants.
Now. let me tell vou. Ben Harris." he
rwent on with sudden temper. "Don't
you ask me for anything more. Ye
won t get It while I'm bcss."
This la the blstoiy of the reform of
the San Anton', as instituted by Ben
pumin Harris, engineer, and Samuel
Twlzzle, mate. San Francisco Argo
naut
TAKING CARE OF A TRAIN
THE ELABORATE SYSTEM OF IN
SPECTION AND RENEWAL
The Largrat Itrpalr shop In tha Wnrlit
Mrmaikahle I.ocnmotlva Hnapltal Itaa
, Joit Hran Camplrtd at Colllnwooil,
Ohio Mare!nn Wrecking Machinery.
Few people who travel, and few of
those who dally depend upon the rail
roads of the country for the hauling
of freight, have any Idea of the part
which the army of men who work,
day in and out, on repairs only, play
In the world ot transportation, nor
of how many thousands of human
lives are annually saved by the con
scientious attention of these men to
their work. In the Inspecting and re
pairing departments of the American
railroads are employed not less than
1(10,000 men, to whose skill and quick
perception the public owes a debt of
gratitude.
The a veto pe passenger train Is thor
oughly Inspected at all large cities,
100 to 150 miles apart, and Is hastily
looked over at many other stops be
sides. Six minutes' time Is allowed
for a thorough Inspection. Four men,
two at each end, begin the work of
looking over the wheels, the trucks,
the couplings and all parts of the car
which are liable to get out of order.
These men from both ends meet at
the middle of the train, and the in
spection Is completed. While they are
doing this work the oiler, who Is nick
named In the ear repairing circles
sometimes as tho "dopcr," looks out
for hat boxes and properly lubricate
all the heated parts. At the same In
stant the Ice-man, with his tongs, Is
lifting chunks of Ice Into the tanks
In the Interior of the coaches.
Freight trains are inspected with
Just as much care as the passenger
coaches, but, the work being done up
on the repair tracks, In an obscure lo
cation, the public practically sees
nothing of It. At some of tne princi
pal repair tracks, even In cities of
not more than 15,000 population, as
many as 1200 and 1500 cars are in
spected every 24 hours, and this by
tour men, two working nights and two
days. XVhen a train moves In upon a
track for an inspection but a half
nilnute Is allowed to each car, and so
rapid are tne workmen that they do
It thoroughly In this time. Were the
railroads n5t sure that these men are
perfectly capable of doing the work
In the time now allotted, they would,
of course, increase the limit, for if
there Is one department more than
another In which the railroads are par
ticular about perfect work it Is In the
line of proper and adequate repairs.
When a train of cars arrives in the
yards near the repair tracks the re
pairers place a blue flag in daytime.
or a blue light at night, at each end
of the train. This warns railroaders
that the inspectors are at work on the
train, though they may not be visible,
olten being under the cars; The loco
motive must not be attached when
these blue signals show forth from
the ends of the train. One of the In
spectors passes over tne tops of the
cars. He Is on the lookout for a leaky
roof, If It be a box car; If It be an ore
or coal car, then he must look out
for the condition of the chains which
hold the drop-bottoms. The men
working about the trucks must look
out for a broken flange, a checked
wunel, bent axles, loose bolts, bad air
connections, condition of the air re
servoirs and many other things.
As soon as a defect Is found a card
is tacked on the car by the Inspector.
There are different cards used to de
signate rolling stock that Is In bad or
der. One card denotes danger, and
that the car must be kanaled with cai e
until it Is unloaded and placed upon
the repair tracks. Another card de
notes the condition of the air brakes.
The car may be in such shape that it
must go at the rear of the train, and
have no connection with air, or it may
be that It ran be run between cars
of air, but that the reservoir of the car
must be cut out, the air simply passing
through the pipes of the car. without
having any effect as to setting the
brakes upon It Box cars with leaky
reefs must be transferred to some dis
tinct line of of traffic, such as the car
rying of coke.
No one can well doubt that the car
rerairers are skilled workmen. They
must be able to discern checks on a
wheel and know that eventually It may
mean a crack wnlch will develop Into
a broken wheel. A broken wheel, In
turn, may mean a fearful wreck. When
a man begins as a car repairer he must
first work about the repair track with
some one who Is experienced, and be
fore he learns perfectly every part of
the trade should spend, perhaps, two or
three years. It would seem that these
men would receive big pay, but they
do not get as much as in many of the
other departments. Western roads, it
is said, pay men more than the east
ern for this worK. In some parts of
(he eastern and central states they get
but 15 1-2 cents an hour, while the
switchmen ot the same locality get In
the neighborhood of 25 cents an hour.
This the repairers believe is a bit
unjust, and they are now in some sec
tions of the country asking that their
wages be raised.
. Ot late there has been a tendency
to change the plan of this work to that
of piecework, but the change has not
yet been In effect ong enough for the
man to feel just sure how they like
it By the piecework plan they are
paid a certain scale rate for each
separate bit of work they do. For
example, If' there Is to be a sill put
Into a car the workman Is paid the
scale rate for placing sills. The ques
tions which arise, however, relate to
whether he is to be paid for the extra
work he must do In tearing away
timbers and bolts in a disabled car
prior to putting In the new sill. la
some Instances this would require a
long time; In other Instances not so
long.
Wrecking crews are usually station
til at two or Uiree points on a divi
sion. There Is usually one large steam
wrecker, with a lifting rapacity of BO
tons, and then there will be one or
two hand-wrerkers. The men on these
wreckers receive the same wages as
i..e car repairers who work on the re
pairs tracks, except that for extra time
the men on the wreckers receive about
20 cents an hour. The average wreck
er carries a crew of 12 men. These,
of course, are skilled In their particu
lar line. The modern machinery with
which they work Is marvelous In many
lespects. Every one Is familiar with
the remarkably short time that Is re
quired to clear a track In this day.
That which would require but a few
hours now would have taken several
days a quarter-century ago.
The average American railroad sys
tem employs several thousand men
In Its repair departments alone. In
the big shops of the companies the
largest numbers are employed, but
even In small cities as high as 125
men will be kept steadily at work.
These men are capable of building a
ear, from the trucks up, with the va
rious parts that are so extensive Eome
tlmes alter a wreck that the car may
be said to be rebuilt.
At Colllnwood, Ohio, there has Just
been completed the biggest locomotive
repair shops In the world, by tho Lake
Shore fe Michigan Southern railway.
Later, It Is said that very extensive
car repairing Interests will here be
uddod. The dimensions of the new
shops are r.00 by 3110 feet. The walls
are of brick and the framework of
steel. Here some 2000 men will he
employed, and their sole work will be
repairs. The machinery will be mar
velous, Including cranes with a lift
ing capacity of 100 tons. No locomo
tives will here be built, but many will
l.e rractlcally rebuilt Philadelphia
Iieeord.
THE ROMANCE Of A SQUALL.
A Tugbnat rapraln Who Itorurd a e.'lrl
Itccnuie tlr tliulinlifl.
The rescue of a young woman from
a capsized sailboat last summer in the
Imy by the captain and mate of a Prov
idence tngboe.t hns resulted In a ro
mantic wedding. Capt. Warren H.
Brown, notf of the towboat Gaspce,
was married Saturday night by the
Rev. Charles Dcufleld to MIfs Clara U
Pickering of Edgewood, who owes her
life to the captain's act.
It was on the 2d of lai t July. It was
rather stormy, late In the day, with
thunder, lightning and rqunlls, and
among the craft that were on the bay
was a slooplng yacht, in which a party,
consisting of J. Walter Pickering, Mrs.
Pickering, their two daughters and
Agda Johnson and Ethel Tucker, was
out on a pleasure trip. When they
were off Potter's Cove at Prudence
Island, the boat was struck by a squall
and was capsized. There was a small
row boat with the sailboat, but no oars,
nnd when the accident came the occu
pants had to take to the bottom of the
yacht, aa the smaller boat would hold
but three.
The women were in the cabin when
the squall struck them, and It was
necessary to break the windows In or
der to get them out As the boat
would not hold all, and there was a
chance of bringing assistance by reach
ing shore, Mr. Pickering, with the two
smaller girls. Miss Tucker and his
youngest daughter. Miss Essie, started
for the shore, paddling the boat with
a broom. They disappeared In the
darkness, leaving Mrs. Pickering und
one daughter and Miss Johnson lying
upon the boat's side, which was about
18 Inches above the surface of the wat
er for about six feet of her length. For
four hours they lay clinging to the
boat as best they could, with hands
that bad been badly cut by the jagged
edges of thi cabin windows.
About 10 o'clock the tug Gertrude,
with two barges in town, which had
left Providence early In the evening,
reached tho vicinity, and Capt. T. C.
Brown thought he heard a faint cry
tor help. He steered toward the sound
nnd found the women clinging to the
boat They wero nearly exhausted
and probably could not have, hold on
more than 15 minutes longer. Capt.
Brown called to his mate, end, bilng-i
Ing his boat alongside, jumped from
the pilothouse to the deck. A rope
was thrown to the women, but they
were unable to grasp it, and so Wil
liam Iawaon, a deckhand on the Ger
trude, jumped overboard, and brought
one of the women to the tug, while the
otliera were reached from the deck.
They were taken Into the hot hltchcn
of the tug and given restoratives and
exchanged their wet garments for
overcoats and blankets.
When Capt. Brown found their
homes were In Providence he cut loose
from tho barges, leaving thern an
chored, and stecmed back to this city,
reaching here about midnight. The
women were taken to Mr. Pickering's
home at H53 Smith street in Edgewood,
and left In charge of their friends.
Capt. T. C. Brown of the Gertrude is
the father of the bridegroom of Sat
urday evening. The latter was at that
time mate of the Gertrude, was the
first who saw tho ship-wrecked party
and took an active part In the rescue.
The acquaintance formed at that time
was continued through the cordial in
vitation the captuln and mate received
to call at the Pickering residence
whenever they chanced to be in town,
and the engagement and wedding II
rally resulted. Providence Journal,
Room far Daabt.
Judge (to elderly witness) In what
year were you born, madam?
LaJy In '76, your honor.
Judge Urn! In 1876 or 1776? Chi
cago News.
New York tily.-Rliort blouse Etons
re much more Jaunty than Jackets
which reach below the waist line, ami
are usually preferred for moderate
weuther. The garment Illustrated Is
nuiile of gray Veuetliin with blink
moire trimming.
It Is simply adjusted with shoulder
and tinder-arm seams, the back being
perfectly pluln. The fronts fasten in
I A BLOUSE ETOK.
VERY FASHIONABLE THIS SEASON.
single-breasted style, with black silk
loops and crocheted buttons. They ore
fitted smoothly across the bust, but
blouse stylishly over the narrow moire
belt that closes with a fancy silver
buckle.
The neck is completed with a rolling
collar of moire that forms narrow re
vers In front. The sleeves are regula
tion bishop models fitted with Inside
seams. They have slight fulness on
the shoulders, and are finished with
moire cuffs of unique slnipiug.
Etons In this style may be made of
taffeta, peu elo sole, cheviot, broad or
Indies' cloth and worn as separate out
side garments. They are, however,
usually accompanied by skirts of the
same material, and make stylish walk
ing costumes. Th? blouse may be worn
open to display the fancy shirt waist
beneath. If so desired.
To make the Eton In the medium size
will require one uud one-quarter yards
of forty-four-inch matcrlul.
A Walat With Clbow Nlceret.
Robes of black or white luce, span
gled and Jetted net or embroidered
chiffon ure very fashionable this sea
son. The lining of shimmering satin
or shot silk forms an Important part of
the general effect, ami the toilets are
usually made quite plain, in order to
display the rich fabrics to good advan
tage. Tha costume Illustrated in the large
drawing Is mude of saffron lace over
white satin lining and trimmed with
turquoise blue panne. The waist Is
mounted on a glove-fitted, feather
boned lmiug, that closes in the front.
The buck Is drawn sjnootbly across
the shoulders, and has slight fuluess at
the walNt, arranged in tiny pleats. The
front is also plain, and forms a decided
blouse over Uie narrow belt. The lace
cIoscb across the left shoulder around
the urm's-eye and under the arm.
A plain transparent collar completes
the neck. The elbow puffs are tiulshed
with narrow bands that are covered
wUb panna fastened beueatb a rosette.
From these depend deep pleatlngs of
chiffon. The bow at the neck la also
of chiffon.
The circular skirt Is fitted closely
around the waist and over the hips
with small darts. The fulness at the
centre back Is arranged In an under
lying pleat at each side of the closing.
Rosettes of pantio, connected by fes
toons of the same material, are used to
decorate the waist and skirt. This
mode of trimming Is especially pretty
for a plain skirt, and limy be repeated
In the back, the rosettes being pluced
on each side of the centre pleat.
In some rases three or five narrow
ruchings of chiffon are used for foot
trimming, or arranged In scallops and
points at the lower edge of the skirt
To make the waist In the medium
size will require two and a quarter
yards of tweiity-two-lnch material.
To make the skirt In the medium size
will require three and three-quarters
yards of fifty-Inch material.
A Pretty Hat,
A simple nnd pretty hat of a dark
Id no rough straw Is trimmed with a
couple of clusters of lilies of the valley,
with their green leaves.
A Fancy Shirt Walt.
Owing to the great popularity of bis
cuit and ran shades, waists made of
ecru linen are seen In large assort
ments and merit special attention, as
tliey may be worn with so many dif
ferent colors. They are especially ef
fective when nccompanled by a skirt
of marine blue cheviot or serjre for out
ing excursions.
J Me waist illustrated is made of linen
In this fashionable shade. The founds-
tion is a glove-fitted, feather-boned lin
ing that closes In the centre front This
lining may be omitted and the waist
adjusted with shoulder and under arm
seams If preferred.
Tucks extend from neck to belt in
the hack, forming a simulated box
pleat that tapers toward the waist line
In a becoming munner. A smooth ad
justment is maintained under the arms.
The fronts fasten In double-breasted
style, the light side lapping the left and
closing with pearl buttons. Three tucks
on the shoulders are stitched down
some distance and the fulness thus pro
vided blouses stylishly over the velvet
girdle. The neck Is completed by a
plain collar that fastens In the back
and Is trimmed with a band ot linen
lace.
Thy one-piece shirt waist sleeves are
shaped with Inside seams only. They
have gathers on the shoulders, fit the
upper arm closely und are completed
with deep wristbands. The cuffs, col-
PANCX SB1BT WAIST.
lar and edges ot fronts ore finished
with machine stitcbiug.
To niuke the waist in the medium
size will reaulre two Yards of thlrti-
J slz-iucb material.
7"
i A
V J