The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, May 14, 1902, Image 3

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    TALKS
rWaMNNND
iji T '
llracctata Aa-alu In Vntaa.
llrn.elets are again In vot;ite,and ar
ihown In every design ami material
ever wrought Into hands Tor pretty
wrists, from the exquisite Oriental
workmanship to glittering bands of
Kerns. Very bcautirul they are, psi"
claly when worn with the present fash
Ion of lare undersleeves thut llnlsli
the latest mode of sleeves.
Tha NwhI raiU.
Parabola are medium alzu anil leas
bell shaped, and fur dressy use are lit
erally burdened with masses of rich
lace (lace more tlianchllTnn) Insertions
and applique, combined with llouuces
and ribbon strconiors and knots that
bold artificial flowers, to correspond
with the flower hats. All-over lace
parasol covers are reserved for more
exclusive wear with all over lace
gowns, which are worn on ceremonial
occasions In the day as well aa for
evening functions.
lha I.ntrlt tml inr Moniirama.
The New York girl st 111 clings to
the monogrnm fad. She has hail her
tnonogrnm embroidered on her
shirtwaist, worked on tho In
i.lcp of her dainty silken
hose, and traced In rhlne
stoncs and Jewels Into bicklos for
slipper, belt and Imlr-barette. And
now she has a new nionog.am fancy,
the most novel, the prettiest of all. It
Is a lace monogram nnd It decorates
t'or parasol. On a wiiite taffeta para
sol she will have her monogram ap
pliqued In black Chiv.itllly lace let
ters ; otherwise the parasol will be per
fectly plain. The effect Is extremely
smart. Hpr monogram Is ecru Ara
bian lace letters she will alHO use.
And It' she has many purasols, one per
baps will have the monogram la Per
sian Bilk embroidery instead of lace.
A changeable green and blue silk par-
vlsol with no other decoration but the
nsonograra appliqued upon the silk In
I f ters of Persian embroidery la dis
tinctly novel. Woman's Homo Com
panion, ftcanly In tha riinrk.
The beauty of the cheek Is oftenor
destroyed by the loss of teeth than by
tny other cause. This, therefore, 1h
an additional reason for taking good
ice of thPHR features whoso nerleet-
ess of condition Is essential to every
1 1 andsome face. The teeth, tndjed, are
I given, us not only for the purposes or
I mastication, and to assist us in speak
ing, but to help us preserve tho beauty
md contour of the face.
It Is most Important that the teeth
o brushed thoroughly at night, for K
s then, when the tongue la in repose,
hat the acid of tho tiallva gets In iu
wn good work on the teeth. Milk of
nagnesla should be used after brush-
ng the teeth at night, as It helps to
rotect the enamel from the action of
he aclda that form In the mouth dur-
ng sleep.
In some cases, tartar accumulates
u rapidly that It must be removed
every six months, for neglected tartar
brings a whole train of evils In Its
wake. It consists of lime, and from
first setting around the teeth near the
gums it goes on extending down
around the roots until in US final ac
tion the teeth loosen and fall out.
New York Press.
Tha Olrla Latter Guild.
The plan to establish a Olrlla Lettr
guild In thla country has not met with
an enthusiastic reception. The fail
ure of the scheme, at least so far as It
has gone, is probably due to the too
apparent effort to "Improve" factory
girls, who, with democratic spirit, re
Bist all advances from their richer Bis
ters that savor of patronage.
The Girls' Letter guild is an English
organization, headed by the Bishop of
Coventry. Its object Is to bring the
illiterate and uncultured girls of the
working classes luto touch with wom
en of refinement and culture by a
system of letter writing.
Oentlewomon become members of
the guild by the payment of one shil
ling a year, and the promise to write,
ence a month, a long friendly letter
to any girl who may be allotted to her.
Members of the guild are expected to
ahow an Interest In the daily occupa
tions, amusements, difficulties and
pleasures of their protegees. The
object, of course, Is to correct false
Ideas of life and to inspire a liking
(or wholesome living.
Women who have undertaken th
work say that it Is most interesting,
tut that the one letter a montii be
comes a small part of the responsibil
ity. New York Tribune.
The Itaatoa of Hata.
Not one woman in a thousand stops
to consider the real reason why slid
wears a bat. Savages do not have
any Idea of decorative millinery; their
cbapeaux am Intended for use. The
first hat, it is said, was donned as a
protection from cold and storm by
those whom advancing years bad de
prived of a comfortable thatch of hair
or those whose tender age entitled
them to no supply.
Hate were therefore worn by the
very old or the very young. Borne of
the ancient head coverings were mod
eled on the plan of the protective
l.eadgear worn by warriors when they
went into battle, and were mere plecea
, cf fur. sewed together with thongs of
kin. Aa civilization advanced, decor
ations were added, aud aa refinement
brought with it the Inevitable aubjec
tton of humanity to hair tonics, even
people in tat prime of life were eon
b
pelled to protect their scanty loolis
with coverings of soma sort when
Storms raged.
Then what had once been a reproach
to the wearer came to be made of dis
tinction, like the earl's roronete.l cap,
the scholar's hat or tho monk's hood.
The first trimmings o.i hau represent
ed social or political distinction, Ho
fccttes, wIioro colors had sotiu special
significance, were first used. A gient
ii;any of the old time pymhoM nave
been revived by fashion designers who
have no Idea of their meaning. For
It'stnncn, a very smart three-cornered
riding anil hunting hat of dark felt
with turned up brim Is obviously a
another mollification of the helmet,
It resembles much the hat under whlcti
the American soldiers won their liber
ty. The fashlonnhle marquise hat Is
another molllication of tho helmet.
with its stiff, tnmed back front Itnlpn-
tided by trimmings. Pittsburg Press.
Ilia Meal if a Wife.
A woman who says she has hnd ex
perience, having hnd two husbands
and three sons, gives the following
opinions of man and his llttlo piiirer
eiices: "A man of mediocrity and
that means most htiHtinnds, or, at leaat.
every other woman's hiivtband lias his
Ideal of a wife. The kind he likes
dresses handsomely and becomingly
oi'. a very small allowance. She must
never go Into debt for anything, but
must always pay ready money, wheth
er she can manage to get It from him
or not. Her Jewels must, on no ac
count be eellp.ted by thoae of any other
women of her si t, but when she buys
them, and the bill comes in, her hus
band is furious about tho outlay. He
sulks for a week, but when he would
l.ave sulked quite as long If, at the
Inst dinner party, she had shone a
secondary star to any lady of their ac
quaintance. "A man loves his wife to be gentle
and sympathetic to himself. If she 1.4
too much so to her boys, and they take
advantage of It and get Into debt and
go to her to help them out, then hu
rays: 'Pother sympathy."
"If she Is too good to the poor, and
gives them of the household abun
dance, he Is apt to be cynical and
censorious talks uf 'encouraging a
parcel ot Idle rogues,' of 'hi Incrimi
nate charity,' and the harm It does,
oi; d of the danger of pauperizing the
reedy. None of these -considerations,
however, prevent him from giving to
charities that print his name at the
head of the subscription llsU. or fork
ing out a quarter lor cases that come
t nder ills immediate notice. It is only
the wife who is to subordinate her
kindly Impulses to considerations of
political economy.
"A man likes his wife to be cheer
ful. He does not always concer i him
self very particularly about the means
to make and keep her so, but he dis
approves utterly of n sad or pensive
face. He may have cut her to the
quick with some bitter word be
fore he leaves home in
tiie morning, but he Is extremely nn
I'oyed If he perceives on returning any
signs of the wound he has Inflicted.
A man hits hard, but he never expects
to Bee a bruise. He has forgiven him
self for administering. tho blow; why
should not the recipient be equally
quick about forgetting It?
"A man likes his wire to bo Intelli
gent, quite sufficiently so to be able
to conduct the concerns of lire, and to
appreciate his own Intellectual parts
end enjoy stray ebullitions of tils wit
r.ml humor. She muBt applaud theso
with discrimination, and in that deli
cate manner which infers no surprise
at his possessing brilliancy. But he
U exasperated should she be too In
telligent. His depths are to be invio
late, but he likes to sound her shal
lows; and so well does she know this
that Bhe often assumes a shallowness
when she has it not." New York
Commercial Advertiser.
FoaVoStfl?
BENEFIT
Prlscilla collars of muslin are beau
til ully embroidered.
Mario Antoinette fichus nre caught
up with pink rosebuds and pale bluo
ribbons.
Sloping shoulder are smart this
tprlng, and so, of course, are"brou4
collars und fichus,
Tho Bonedlctlno collar Is composed
of embroidered muslin, with medall
ions of lace set In.
Graas linen flowers, with edges of
lace to match the linen, have for cen
tres big straw buttons.
Baroque pearla Inset iu gold wire in
various designs decorate purses of
suede in brown and gray.
Pretty Imported brooches are set
with brilliants, in the centre of each
brooch teing an enameled blossom of
some k'ud, forget-me-nots In one, and
in another bright red buds wUh green
leaves.
Any number of tulle veils ore on the
market. There is the regular tulle
mesh In place of the large mesh.
known more generally as veiling, and
upon this there are the dotj and line
of silk in black.
Belts of pongee are pretty aud ser
viceable. They are made on a founda
tion suttlciently , Arm for durability,
rows of machine, stitching adding a
neat finish. Buckles of dull finish gilt
are seen on most of these.
A very lovely collar Is made of ruffle
vpon ruffle of white chiffon, falling one
ever the other, the edges of each ruffle
bet with white hyacinth bells an inch
or more apart. These ruffles form only
the collar the ends being; of white
moire ribbon. It is one of the dalntest
of tbMoAretty things.
5?
WHERE PAlNT HEART WON.
Ilia ll.Tpnnllut t'neonaalnns of II Is Pari
In a I.nva Itomannn
I. uke Maxwell, an awkward farmer
with a heart big enough to love the en
tiro world, yet flllel to overflowing
with 'love for Harriet Weber, was
('own In hl.4 orchard, miserable nnd
Mihappy. Ten years of courtship, with
a passion Mill undeclared, was a hu
morous thing to tiie villagers, but to
l nke. lying prone amid the harvest
Mcnts, It amounted almost to a trag
edy, lint for his hated shyness. Har
riet might now be mistress of the
pietty farmhouse, showing white
through the trees, might have been
there ten years. Now she was going
"out west" to live with her brother
cue shoit week and she would bn out
of his life forever. Ten years of lov
ing, with frequent meetings with his
Idol, were llvahlo at least, but a life
time without a sight of her or the
sound of her voice was unbearablo
even to think of.
"What a tongue tied fool I've been!"
ho groaned. "And oh, heaven, bow I
love her! i must tell her! I can't
let her go! "
With a coinage born of desperation
he dashed like a wild thing through
the orchard and up to tho little vine
i hid cottage. Harriet greeted him In
her sweet, calm way, and thn blush
tl.nt always appeared when she met
him came Into her face,
"Harriet," he begun bravely, "I've
tome to ask you to" Ho glanced
lit her, and then faltered. Oh, Luk'.
you faced your country's foe without
n ttvinor. yet you tremble In every
llbre of your giant body at the Bight
of thU blue-eyed woman! "to ask
;jtt to go with me to tho fair tomor
row," he continued feebly.
"Of course. Luke. If you want me
to." There was a shade of disappoint
ment In Harriet's voice.
Without another word, Luke turned
on his heel. Ho knew now that it
was Impossible for "nlm ever to ex
press bis love. How be nursed the
fate that mado him love; how he
cursed the fate that made him diffi
dent. The country fair was a tremendous
success. Exhibits anil amusements
were high-class, but they palled on
I. uke and Harriet. Late in the after-
rcon tney were following a crowd,
their hearts heavy with longing and
disappointment.
The dapper little man who had at
tracted and was leading tho crowd
paused, turned and begnn a series of
hypnotic maneuver..
"What'B he doing?" whispered Har
riet. "I don't know," answered Luke.
"We'll wait and see."
O blessed hypnotist, verily thou art
a guardian anKul! Hujilenly he paused.
his black eyes snapping and looking
straight at Luke and Harriet. With a
sinuous movement he drew from his
pocket a scroll, which ho unrolled and
held before their wondering ryes. On
this scroll, in largo red letters, wos
printed the following:
"ASK HElt TO MARRY YOU. AND
TAKE HER TO BROWN & GREEN'S
10R THAT HANDSOME PARLOR
Sl'ITE. THEY FEATHER THE
NEST."
Luke read It, then turned to Har
riet, a glorious smile Illuminating his
features. Her face was crimson.
"Will you go there with me, Har
riet?" he whispered, suddenly grow
ing bold. "I've wanted to ask you for
years."
"If you want me to, Luke, murmured
Harriet, a new, glad light In her eyes.
And tho hypnotist passed on to col
lect another crowd, unmindful and
unconscious of the part he had played.
Maude J. Sullivan, In Woman's
Homo Companion.
Kwlil tilka American Khea.
According to official statistics, there
were Imported Into Switzerland from
the United States during the last three
years boots nnd shoes amounting to
$28,8t0, the Increase of Imports being
about GO percent each year.
These statistics give only the figures
of the direct Importation and do not
convey a correct idea of tho number
actually Imported for most of them
come from distributing points in Ger
many and are entered at the Swiss
frontier as originating in that country.
Five years ago it was not possible to
buy au American shoe In Switzerland,
but we are gradually getting a Arm
foothold In the country, and now it is
no novelty to see in the shop windows
of the largest towns shoes with a little
American flag displayed thereon and
the announcement that they are Amer
ican made, the inference being that
they must, necessarily be good.
This speaks well for the American
article, when it is considered that one
of the largest shoe factories in the
world (turning out five thousand pairs
of shoes a day) is situated in Switzer
lend and Is an important exporter to
the Latin American countries.
Tha Vegetable Heehtaak."
The notion, long held, that the
mushroom presented the composition
of animal flesh la rudely shattered. In
one regard, at any rate, the mushroom
doea resemble a beefsteak It contains
practically the same amount of water.
This fact, aa ascertained by recent an
alyses, hardly Justifies the mushroom
being regarded as a "vegetable beef
steak." It may be a blow to the vege
tarian, but he would have to consume
at least ten pounds of mushrooms In
order to gain the equivalent of a llt
tlo over one pound of prime beef.
Still, the tender mushroom is un
doubtedly easily digestible, and it
contain an unusual proportion of po
tassium salts. . Few will deny that
the mushroom ia an excellent adjunct
to many dishes; it has an appetizing
flavor, and thla quality alone makes it
dletetlcally valuable, London LfcnceL
mar
Ritftanlna; Wilier.
If the hardness of the wnter Is only
temporary and due to tlu lime In tne
Ircsh plaster you can adopt Lie plan
used by engineers who wish to soften
the supply of water used by a town.
This Is dune by adding to the water
In the cistern, the object being to rid
the water of the excess of carbon diox
ide which holds the carbonate of lime
; resent In the water In solution. The
lime combines with the carbon diox
ide to form chalk, and the carbon diox
ide being removed from the water can
no longer dissolve the rarbonate of
lime, and this, together with the chalk
formed, Is thrown down. About one-te-nth
part clear lime water Is lined.
Pulling will soften and rid the water
of temporary hardness, but this Is a
more tedious process than using the
lime.
Tha suiniittr fnrnliihlnffa.
Furnishings for summer homes this
year seem to bo of dull finish dim j
t.'ipcjtrlcs, soft finished Liberty vel
vets and cotton brocades; everything
In fact, to suggest a certain antiquity.
Greens, deep rose and old gold form
the foundation of almost all the fabrics
lor summer use.
Color schemes for room furnishings
begin to appear everywhere, and ex
Qtilslte are the Holland prints. Huge,
splashing flowers are combined- with
natural looking follime and down pil
lows are shown covered with this same
fabric.
These lovely summer fabrics are
t'sed for furniture covering as woll as
hangings. There Is a wide range from
v.hlcii to choose, beginning with de
nim, jute and going on through the
choice of silk and linen or cotton mix
tures, heavy linens and pluln and fancy
china ailks.
I'nrirrlnt the Cellar.
The woman who understands house
hold sanitation examines all her house
bold premises with a scientific Intelli
gence. She begins In the cellar with
the hygienic coat of whitewash, which
purines the air and drives out the
dampness. This whitewash Is not put
on for appearance, but for effect. It
destroys the dangerous germs which
lurk In the mould found In damp
places. Every particle of old vege
table inntter and all debris that has
luln in the cellar bins must be cleaned
p.wny to Insure perfect sanitation.
When the cellar has a close odor It
Is a good plan to purify the air by
burning a little brimstone before the
j V. IHieWHHIl IB pui. on. iius win no-
siroy mould most effectually In sonio
place where the coat of whitewash
does not reach. If the cellar has been
systematically aired and there la no
sign of mould about tho place, It will
l ot be necessary to fumigate it. . It
only requires a small amount of brim
Blonn to purify the air of a mouldy
cellar, After fumigation open the win
clows In the day time and air tho
place thoroughly. When the air out
efde the cellar is warmer than that
of the cellar the windows must be
open at night and not during the day.
The ceilings as well as the floor of
the cellar must be thoroughly brushad.
At least once or twice a year and
the spring is tho best time the ce
r.iented cellar floor must be disinfect
ed with copperas. This can easily be
done by a strong workman with a mop
cr sponge, after the floor has been
thoroughly swept. Sprinkle a dirt
floor with copperas. Ten cents' worth
nt copperas dissolved in two palls of
Lot water Is sufficient for a cellar of
ordinary size. The same solution
should be poured down every cesspool,
ctaln and any other place outstdo
which needs purification. New Yorlc
Tribune.
White Flour Gums Into one cup of
tweet milk mingle the yolk of ono egg
Mid a half teaspoonfut of salt. Beat
quickly into tho mixture a cupful of
Bitted flour; after moderately mixing,
fold In the stiff white. Drop in hot
Irons. Bake in a moderately hot oven.
Scotch Scallops Take one cup of
finely chopped raw beef, dredge with
a teaspoon and a half of flour, one
half teaspoon of salt, quarter of a
(.altspoon of celery salt, and dusting
ot naprlka. Add half a cup ot cold
wafer, set over the fire and simmer
five minutes. Add a tablespoon of but
ter, a teaspoon of chopped parsley and
our over buttered toast.
Cream Tomato Soup Use knuckle
of veal and beef bone for soup. Boil
slowly with celery, strain. and add part
of can of tomatoes. Cook half an
hour; strain again; mix one tab!e;
spoonful of cracker powdered with a
cup ot cream in a bowl. Ad I to It
tome of the soup; mix thoroughly aud
pour all back Into the pot. Boll a few
minutes gently and serve.
Soak quarter 'box of gelatine in
quarter cup ot water one hour; rub
quarter ot a pound of rice flour In a
little cold milk; add this to one quart
of scalding milk; stir constantly for
Ave minutes; add a cup and a half of
sugar and the soaked gelatine; stir
for one minute, ,ien add the grated
rind of one loawtrfi; strain this Into a
bowl; when a little cool add half a
teaspoon of bitter almond; turn Into
a mould that has been wet in cold
water; stand ia a cold place until
ready to serve.
SCIENCE AND INDUSTRY1.
To disprove the old tradition that
the moss Is always on tho north side
of the tree, Henry Kraempr has col
lected the following statistics: Of
the trnps be examined, 10 percent of
I he moss w as on the w est side, 10 per
rent on tho northwest, 10 percent in
the north, 20 percent on the northeast,
35 percent on the east, and 15 percent
on the southeast. The remaining 10
percent Is not accounted for.
' A military photo-electric at hool lis
leen opened at I.e Havre for Inform
ing the officials charged with using
npparatus on the seashore for scanning
the horizon. Two hundred pupils from
the Artillery corps are to bo rerolved
tnd, as soon as they are sufficiently
instructed In their duties, stations of
observation, provided with tho most
Improved Instruments, are to be In
rtalled along the wholp French littoral.
Travelers In the celebrated Death
Valley or California havo described
tho wonderful contortions of the sand
pillars that small whirlwinds some
limes send spinning across the hot
plain. Even more reniarknbln are the
"dust devils" seen by H. F. Wltherhy,
the English explorer. In the valley of
the White Nile. Sometimes two of
thpse whirling columns, gyrating in
opposite directions, meet, "and If they
be well matched the collision stops
them and a struggle ensues as to
which way they shall twist. Gradual
ly one gnliiR the mastery, and the
two combined begin to gygrnte alike
and then rush on together." Some of
these whirls will strip the clothes
from an Arab's back, or twist a goat
round and round like a top.
At a recent sitting of the Paris
Academic des Sciences some of the
new Inventions of M. Francois Dus
hand, the young scientist whor.e bene
ficent labors In alleviating the condi
tion of the blind have been recognized
by the Frpnch government, were pre
ented to the members by M. Carnot.
The now devices Include, says the
Iondon Mall's Paris correspondent, an
npparatus which enables blind children
to reckon up columns of figures by
means of a set of blocks and a metal
network ; a specially constructed cine
matograph, consisting of a metal cy
linder, with raised figures on each
hide, which, when set in motion by a
pedal action, gives to those who can
not see tho illusion of a horse gallop
ing on a race course, and by the aid
of another remarkable Invention blind
I uplls are taught drawing.
A self-dumping scow, built on novel
principles, has been put In service at
Havana, Cuba. The scow U built with
a flush deck and a central longitudi
nal bulklipad, dividing the hull into
two water-tight compartments. When
the scow, with its deck loaded, is
towed out to sea. a valve Is opened
which allows water to run Into on?
side of the bont. being retained there
by the water-tight bulkhead. As the
barge tills on one side with water it
gets a greater, and greater list, until
finally it has a position of about 45
degrees, by which time the load all
slides off Into the sea. On opening
o second valve, communicating with
tho other bulkhead, the sea valve be
ing first closed, the water ftowj into
the Becond compartment and the
barge rights Itself, when it Is towed
back to port and pumped out prepara
tory to another load and sea trip.
A most important document on the
subject of acetylene generators has
Just been made public In the report
of the parliamentary commission of ex
perts who have been examining the
merits ot the acctylone gas machines
offered commercially In Great Britain.
Forty-six machines, of different make,
were examined and the report state
they all were found to be safe under
the conditions of the test. The yield
r' gas in the different machines ranged
from over 09 percent of the gas-pro-duclng
capacity of the carbide used
clown to 65 percent. The commission
does not favor automatic machines, as
under the varied conditions of uso to
vhlch the generators are exposed to
under every day conditions, especially
with unskilled labor, trouble may arise
from the automatic apparatus, many
of which are quite complicated. It is
interesting to learn that all machines
offered are practically safe, and that
the type of machinery may affect the
yield of gas to the extent of 33 pep
cent.
Mat flood Way to Kami Money.
The Denver secret service ofpeera
were surprised by being nsked to re
deem a Ave dollar bill wlil'-h had been
cut in half. They were waited on by
a gentleman who stated thut he owed a
man )5. In ordor to do away with the
possibility ot the money being lost, be
decided to send the money in separate
pieces.
He cut the bill in two pieces and
mailed one of them. Tnen he waited
for a reply from his friend, but was
surprised to learn that the halt bill had
not been received. He supposed that
he would be paid $5 by the Denver se
cret service officers. Instead he was in
formed that he bad violated a law. He
was very much disappointed, and stat
ed that in the future he would pur
chase money orders when he wanted
to send money by mail.
The practice ot cutting bank notes
In half and sending them in two sepa
rate envelopes ia much followed In
England, but in the Urlted Stales the
federal laws prohibit the mutilation of
currency. The low rate by which
money can be transmitted through a
money order does away with the ne.
ceoslty of mutilating tho currency. The
case is the first which r..u attracted
the attention ot the officers ot the se
cret service tor a long time. Denver
Times, j
New York Clly. Jntinly Jnckels of
taffeta mill peau dp solo have been
worn for several seasons, nnd nre still
fashionable, but the latest thing In
Ktons is bliick moire. Home lovely
watered effects are shown Iu this rich
fabric, nnd the linings are usually of
ivory satin.
As Illustrated the garment Is shaped
with shoulder nnd underarm seams, ft
perfect nil Just men t being maintained
In the back.
The fronts nro fitted with single bust
darts nnd cut nwny slightly at the
neck. The Eton terminates lit the
waist. Hue lu the back mid has n styl-
LADIES' CObbAHLERS ETON'.
SIIIKT WAIST COSTI VE.
Ish dip In front. It may be fastened
with invisible hooks ami eyes, but Is
usually worn open.
The regulation two-piece cont sleeves
have slight fulness on the shoulders,
At the arms closely and time In bell ef
fect at the wrists.
Machine stitching on the cilpes anil
senms form a smart finish. Home cf
the collnrless Ktons this season arc
strapped with bands of the inolrt, and
others have black broadcloth figures
appliqued on the back ami sleeves.
To make the Jacket in the medium
bIzo will require two and one-half yards
of twenty-two Inch material.
fehlrt Walat Costnmaa tha Vogne. .
Shirt waist costumes will enjoy 'an
extended rogue during the comlug sea
sou, and many liuiruilng effects are
produced lu these stylish toilets.
The latfc'o Illustration shows one of
the most popular modes developed in
blotting-paper bluo llucn, wlfh ecru
lace trimmings.
The blouse has for its foundation a
glevo-rittod lining that closes in the
centre front. This may, however, be
omitted, and thu adjustment made
with shoulder and underarm seams, if
preferred.
The buck Is plain across the shoul
ders, nnd has slight fulness at the
waist arranged lu small pleats. The
fronts fasten with buttous aud button
holes worked through the centre pleat.
A rolling collar completes the neck
aud forms rcvers lu front that ore
drawn together beneath a Jaunty tie.
It is trimmed with bands of ecru lace.
The shield and sailor collar are of dark
bluo linen, embroidered lu light blue
dots. These are adjustable, aud a
pleasing variety may be bud by mak
ing several . shields of embroidery,
tucking or lace to wear with each
blouse.
The regulation shirt waist sleeves
have slight fulness ou the shoulder
arid At tho arms closely. They are
completed with straight ruffs und laps
at the opening in the buck.
The skirt is shaped with seven gores.
flllel snfiiothly nrmnul ill? waist anet
over the hips. The clnfing Is mnile ft-
visibly lit Hie buck under two Inverted
Ideals that are flnily presi'd.
(inslers of three forward ttiriiint!
tucks, are arranged nt the front ot
sluilitht edve of the side mid back
Sores, the first tucks lielntt adjusted to
cover the senilis.
The skirl Is cut off around the bottom
unit the flounce iipplled to form Its
lower portion. Three tucks nt lite top
ol Ihe hem form stylish finish to the
flounce, which Ik very full mid flares
gracefully nt the flour.
A bnnil of Imp N applied nt the top
of the flounce. The mode may be de
veloped In Imtlste, pique, niereprlwtf
cotton or duck, trimmed with lace, em
broidery or stitched bund.
It Is also appropriate f ir sprc. chrr
lot, wool caiiMis or clnillie, which inny
be worn for yii'-htiiiK mid outing par
ties or nil kliuH
To make the waist iu the medium sir.e
will require two mul one-quarter yards
of thlrty-slx-liKh material. To niiiku
the skirt in th? Medium size will re
quire six yards or ihirly-nlx Inch ma
terial. A ltiiniline l,ornetta.
A very linnd'-oiiie lorgnette shows n
heitvy rnl.-rd design In brilliants ou n
ground or Fft xreen eniiinel.
A Kinnrt Wult.
The si.inrt waist Illustrated Is made
of chiliii blue and black polka-dot per
cale, with pale blue trimmings.
The buck Is plain across tho siioul-
ders and drawn down close to the belt,
where the fulness is arranged in small
pleats. It is raced with percale to a
pointed yoke depth.
Tho waist closes with pearl buttons
and buttonholes worked through the
centre pleat. There is slight fulness at'
the neck and the lower portion forms a
stylish blouse over the narrow sntiu
belt.
A plain collar completes the neck.
It is partially covered with n jaunty
satin stock and tie; the bishop sleeves
arc shaped with Inside scams, and have
comfortable fulness on the shoulders.
They are gathered nt the lower edges
and arranged mi cuffs that nre pointed
in front aud shallow at the back.
The mode may be developed in pique.,
madras, linen, lawn or any wash fab
ric. It Is also appropriate for taffeta,
peau de sole, albatross, Henrietta ami
French flannel. The (tiff, collar r.ml
pleat may be of contrasting material
or machine stitched.
To make the waist for a miss of four
WW
VISSES fcUlKT WAIST.
teen years will require one and three
quarter yards of ihirty-sii-lucU mate
rlaL