BASQUE AND BLOUSE.
STYLISIIOARMRXTM FOR L.AD1K9
AND MISKS.
tlesrrtptton of a Handsome Dnuble-
m Breasted Manque A lllntise of
IJrown Serge The tautest
In lodl" Wntsta.
-
X" BEENlSH gray vigoronx that
I matched the skirt made the
VjT stylish basque depicted in
the illustrotion, the reams of
sleeves being piped with dark green
Batin, which also facet the lapping
idea and rippled lover edges. Kmall
green lab. shaded pearl buttons in
gronps of four- are used to decorate
the fronts and sleeves, the neck being
finished with a smooth, standing oollar
of green velvet The basque is glove
fitting with donble bnst darts and the
nsnal back seams to the waist line, be
low which the seams are sprang to
give the modish ripple effect all
STYLISH DOUBLE BREASTED BASQUE DESIGNED BY MAY MANTON.
around. The front laps widely, closing
with the collar at left shoulder and
down left front in doable-breasted
tyle, buttons and buttonholes or hooks
and eyes being used to oloee, as pre
ferred. The stylish sleeves are shaped
in fonr sections, the fullness at the
top being laid in box plaits, with
piped seams in centre of eaob, and
side plaite turning toward baok and
front The basque is adapted to the
tailor modes that are simply finished
with machine-stitched edges, and can
be stylishly developed in plain or
mixed woolens, cheviot, tweed, covert,
tnAlfcnn etr fiuied ninth, small, medinm
or large buttons being equally fash
ionable. 'wide required to make this basque for
lady having a 80-inch bust measure
is 8 yards.
A BLOU8B rOB HISSES.
Brown serge made the stylish blouse
shown in the seoond large illustration,
the broad sailor oollar being of grass
linen, edged with batiste embroidery.
Fancy gilt filigree buttons deoorate
the fronts, whioh oan be used in dos
ing, or the closing can be made invisi
ble under the wide box plait. The
blouse is simply shaped by shoulder
and nnder-arm seams, the lower edge
being finished by hem, through
whioh elastio is inserted, to draw the
fullness into position at the waist line.
The fall sleeves are in bishop style,
- gathered on upper and lower edges
HISSES'
Into str Jght, ronnd cuffs at the wrists.
The oollar can be made of the same
material as the blouse, camel's hair,
tweed, cheviot or flannel being suitable
materials that can have the collar and
cuffs deoorated with braid or gimp.
Wash fabrios make useful blouses in
dnok, percale, sateen or gingham,
trimmed daintily with embroidered or
lace edging.
The quantity of material 86 inches
wide required to make this blouse for
miss fourteen years of age is 2
arda.
. . mlbow nduvao.
ribow i'mth are the sleeves of the
' izzx. . IJk that regard lot fashion
which Las made the sex famous, all
women, those who possess beautiful
wrist and those who do not, have ao
cepted the ediot. All sorts of devices
are employed both to simplify and to
elaborate, but whatever else may be
changed, the fundamental fact re
mains. Chiffon, laco, soft muslin, silk,
nit go to thn make up. The droop
from the shoulder is maintained.
Flowers encircle the shoulder, and all
sorts of surprises by means of which
the upper arm ran be shown in part,
are in vogue. The only one law is
length.
Ihi flaish even is as varied as are
the stuffs from which they are made.
For an elbow that is faultless a band
of roses it extremely chic, but the
arm that shows one vestige of bone at
the joint calls for soft frills that at
tract even while they conceal.
A pretty fashion, and one that ef
fects a compromise, drapes the sleeve
over the upper portion and allows
freedom to a small part of the upper
arm. Such a one made all of chiffon
is soft and lovely, bat woald scarcely
bear copying in any material lot
icate. '
idel-
liADlEa' WAIST.
Fancy Persian velvet and red satin
is here deoorated with jet emhoidery.
The waist is fitted in front with single
bust darts, and can be made with a
seamless baok, and closed at the left
shoulder and underarm seam ; or with
a French baok and oIobcJ invisibly in
the centre, as illustrated, or with the
nsnal seamed back and closed in either
preferred way. The neok is finished
with a close-fitting oollar, over whioh
a stook of ribbon is tied in a large
spreading bow, with ends at the baok.
Comfortable sleeve linings are faced in
pointed outline, with red satin covered
with jet embroidery, in vermiouii pat-
BLOUSE.
tern, fall gathered puffs of velvet be-
ins arranged stylishly at tne top.
Waists in this style are chosen by la
dies of good figure to display rioh lab'
rios and handsome garniture of laoe or
passementerie, the style being often
changed by the addition of dainty
waist accessories now fashionable.
The quantity of 44-inoh-wide mate'
rial required to make this waist for a
lady having a oi-inoh bust measure is
2 J yards; for a 86-inch siie, 2 yards;
for 0-inoh sue, 'l yards.
Maine paid last year $1603 in boon
ties for seals caught in the waters off
the coast of the (State. The btfanty Is
in w MBtat oi ut uMimia.
LADIES1 WAIST.
KENT UOXOK FOB WOMEX.
Mrs. fill He R. Pardee Chosen Secre
tary of the Utah (Senate.
The Senate of the new State of
Utah has elected a woman to the offlco
of its Secretary, namely, Mrs. Lillie
It l'ardee, Mrs. Pardee is a notlro
SBCRKTARYOF THE UTAH SKXATH.
of Ohio, where she was born in 18(36,
and a graduate of Bucbtel College,
where she received the highest honore
ever given to a graduate of that col
lege. Until ber marriage four years
ago she was professor of Greek and
Latin and instructor in the gymnasium
of the same oollege. Her maiden name
was Lillie It. Moore. James V. Par
dee, an attorney of Salt Lake City, is
her husband, and they have a daughter
three years old. Mrs. Pardoe is a
type of the younger generation of
Qentile women. She was brought into
prominence during the preparations
for Htntehood through her gifts as an
orator. She has a line stage presence,
a rich, sonorous voice of great cat ry-
ing power, which has had special
training. Py reason of her earnest
work in the Woman s Republican
League she was appointed Seoretarv
of the County Committee, and was
afterward nominated by the County
Convention for a seat in the Senate ot
the new State. Owing to the deoision
of the Utah Supreme Court against
the legal right of women to vote at the
recent election, Mrs. Pardee voluntar
ily withdrew her name from the ticket,
in order not to endanger the interests
of her party in the Legislature.
A Wealthy Fireman.
A young man in blue overalls and a
greasy cap and jacket has been em
ployed as fireman on the Long Island
Railroad for the past ten days. He is
George D. Pratt, the son of the lato
Charles Pratt, the multimillionaire
Standard Oil priSce and one of the
world's leading philanthropists. Ev
ery one is interested in seeing a young
man who has been brought np in
wealth and luxury evince an energy
and indepcuilenoe of character that
enable him to step out of a life of aim
less social engagements aud adopt
some nseful pursuit oalling for down-
right bard work. This is what Mr.
Pratt, who graduated from Amherst
College with honors in 18D3, has been
doing for the last two years. As one
of the representatives of his fathor's
estate, whioh is the second largest
stockholder of the Long Island Rail
road Company, he proposes to learn
the railroad business through every
grade from laborer up. He started in
the car shops at Morris Park, and after
bis servioe at the beuch, the forge,
and in the aasemblying room be
learned how to use tools, how every
part of a locomotive is made and bnw
the whole is put together. After hav
ing served the requisite apprentice
ship In tne department be jumped
into the looomotive cab and com
menced shoveling ooat in the capacity
of a fireman. He is in a fair way soon
to get a knowledge of the business of
railroading in general, and to gain a
particular knowledge of the anairs o
the Long Island Road, in which he is
so largely interested in a financial
way. New Orleans Picaynue.
Paper Crockery.
Current Literature fully describee
the German process of making paper
dishes plated with enamel. Tho
dishes are principally of paper puip
and shaped by oompreasing and cutter
dies, so that in one operation the
plate is out, shaped, compressed
and ready for baking. The plating
sabstanoc, or enamel, is procured
from waste silk, whioh is chemically
dissolved and in combination with i
roper mordant is made into enamel
he shaped dishes are simply dipped
into a tank of this hot enamel for
several minutes, withdrawn, allowed
to oool and are ready for the usual
finiahintr nrooesa. Anv color can be
obtained by this new and inexpensive
enameling, recently introduced into
this country. The advantages of this
paper orookery are cheapness, per'
manent gloss, smoothness, anti-crack
ing of the enamel and neatness.
The Braggart Spirit.
Dr. M. W. Stryker, President of
Hamilton College, told tbis story the
other day in an address before the
Hardware Clnb: "The braggart
spirit anywhere is absurd. Home
little school girls (it is chronicled of
Chioago) were disoussing their olothes,
'I've a lovely new dress,' said one,
'and I am going to wear it to church
next Sunday.' 'Pooh r said another.
'I've new hat, and I'm going to wear
it every day.' 'Well,' said a third,
'I ve got heart disease, anyway 1
German and Austrian Cooks.
Germany and Austria have about
one hundred and fifty oookery sobools.
A tour years' course is uecessary be
fore diploma is granted. Most of
the hotel ohefs have diplomas from
thtf a sohools.
NILVRLY VHIMH) OUT.
Existence of the Few Surviving
BuffalocB Threatened.
Bringing the Yellowstone Park
Animals to "Washington.
The scientists of Washington are
much alarmed ot tho possible extinc
tion of tho buff.ilo. Mr. Lnugtey the
head of thn Smlthsonlau institute,
writes Frank (1. Carpenter in tho
Washington Star, docs not think that
there are as many as 100 buffaloes
loft in tho United States. There arc
a few hero in the Natiouat park, aud a
small herd at Philadelphia. Austin
Corbin, the New York millionaire, has
several, and it may bo that there aro
some small scattering herds lu differ
ent parts of tbo west Of those, how
ever, tho Smithsonian Institution has
no record, and such as exist are pro
bably half-breodH. The onlv pure
buffaloes outsido of the above nro
tliosB of the Yellowstoue park, which
two years ago numbered about 2U0
head, and which erenow reduced to
fifty. Mr. Louglcy has just
received letters stating that
ten of these animals have
been killed within tho past four
mouths, and that tho others are in
danger. Tho chances aro that they
will Inst only a short time, aud Con
gress has beeu notified that if some
thing is not do no at onco this wouder-
ful animal will disappear from the
face of the earth. There are no other
buffaloes on the earth but thoie. The
small herds of the F.ast cannot be
made to perpetuate tho buffalo without
inbrcediug, which will deteriorate the
species, and its only salvation is the
bringing of thoso from tho Yellow
stone Park to some point where they
can be carefully watched aud cared
for.
It is Mr. Langlcy's idea that tbey
should be brought to Washington and
put in the National zoological park
hero. Tho main purpose of purchas
ing this park was for tho protection
of such things as the buffalo aud of
other American animals liable to be-
tiuct. It contains plenty of ground
for a good buffalo park, aud if theso
buffaloes can bo put in it, they will
serve as a nouclcs for tho raisiug of
buff.iloes, which cau bo supplied to
tho different zoological gardens of the
Uuitod States aud ftiruished to col
onies of them over tho country, by
which the species can bo perpetuated.
Professor Goodo, the head of the Na
tional museum, says that we ought to
have at least 100 buffaloes in order to
maintain tho species, and that there
should be herds iu dilTcreut sections
of tho country, tho auiuials of which
might be interchanged to prevent the
deterioration which the iubreediug ef
a siuglo colony would ourtaiuly pro
duce.
Ono of the largest buffaloes ever
known was shot by Mr. Hurualay. It
is now preserved in tho National
Museum. It is five feet eight iuches
high at tbo shoulders, and is teu feet
two inches long from nose to tail.
Many buffaloes weigh over sixteen
hundred pound The uatural life of
the animal is about twenty-five years.
Tho cows usually breed onco a year
and bogin breeding at the ago of two
years. The buffalo calf at birth is
covered with red hair. This hair
changes after a time to brown aud
then black. Tho hair ou the head of
a buffalo is very loug. Mauy a woman,
in fact, would bo glad to have as long
Lair as that of oue of the stuffed buf
faloes in the National museum, whioh
uieasuros, I am told, twenty-two
inches. The buffalo oows weigh less
than the bulls, a good fat one weigh
ing from a thousaud to twejvo huu
dred pounds. They havesmull udders,
but their milk is very rich. It
requires, in fact, the milk of
two cows to satisfy one buffalo oalf.
The bost time to look at a buffalo is
in the fall or winter. In the summer
be is as ragged, ngly and dirty at any
animal on earth. Ho sheds his hair
every year, beginniug about February.
The hair comes off a little at a time.
It often hangs in bunches to his black
skin, and be will fight you if you touch
it He is troubled by the flies at this
timo, but he goes off to the nearest
mudhole and rolls in it until he has
plastered his body with mud. If the
hole is not deep enough he will dig if
out with his horus and huad, and will
then get in and roll over until his en
tire skin is coutod. He curries such
couts of mud throughout the summer,
aud about the first of October ho
comes out with a fall suit of beautiful
black hair, whioh thiokeus as winter
approaches, and whioh affords him
wonderful protection from the oold.
The value of buffaloes ha been in
creasing more rapidly than anything
in this oountry. About twenty yean
ago they were a drug in the market
Thonsauds of them wore killed for
their tongues, but A good buffalo is
now worth at least 8500 whan dead.
Its skin is worth from (100 upward,
according to quality, and the head is
worth frdm 8'100 to 8300 for mount
ing and preservation as a rnlio of this
great animal of the past. Such is the
value of a dead buffalo. Live buf
faloes for breeding are worth much
more, and I am told that the govern
ment buffaloes are worth from 81,000
to $2,000 npieoe. At this rato the
fifty iu tho Yellowstono park nro
worth from 850,000 to 8100,000. Thoy
are worth 825,000 to the hunters who
can suouk in aud kill them in tho
wilds of the Yellowstone park. Sup
pose there were fifty 8500 deer in the
Adirondack mountains s how long
would it be before they would be
killed by hunters, no mattor what tho
laws might be? The Yellowstone park
is twico as large as the Adiroudacks,
aud is fifty times as far from civiliza
tion. The country about it contains
people who care nothing for the but
(ulo or other game, except for the
money which they can got out of
them. When you think that a half
dozen such men could clean out this
herd in one day, provided tbey could
find it in one of the many wild val
leys, and thereby make 825,000 out of
tho job, you got some idea of the dan
ger which exists.
A Story About The Hull an.
Why does the Sultan allow what was
ouce a respectable fleet to rot to
pieoes anchored off Stamboul ?
Simply -beoause he cousidors
irouclad a dsugerou instrument
an
in
the hands of sny Minister or
the
resolute Commander.
It is truo that there are no ships
to guard his coasts, but also there
are none to stoam up the Bosphorus
aud throw a shell into his place, and
that is the first objeot to be thought
of.
The inoident whioh lod to tho ordor
for the extinction of the Turkish navy
was as follows: A transport was
bringing a number of time-expired
men home, when they respectfully
mutinied, aud boggod their officers to
go below, as they wished to do some
thing whioh might not be approved of.
Some nou-commissioned oflicors thon
took command and anchored off
Doima Bagtohun, and after firing a
small salute, bogan shouting. "Long
live the Sultaul"
This demonstration caused immedi
ate confusion at the palace aud vari
ous high officials were dispatched to
parloy with the mutineers but thoy
insisted on seeiug tho Minister, and
when he at last appeared they said
they knew the Sultan had given
the money to pay thoin, but that thoy
had not received it, and thoy would
not budge until they did.
No arguments were of any avail,
and the money had to be sent for and
distributed alter wbicu the men
weighed anchor with a cheer, and
gave up tho ship again.
Thn Sultan, however, reflected that
what a transport hud douo peaceably a
heuvily-ariuod man-of-war might do
with evil intent, and calling Hassan
Pusha to him, he declared that he
wanted no more navy,
Iu this light-beartod manner a
brauoh of national defense, whioh has
been the pride of its oftloors, was
sacrificed to tho royul fours for per
sonal safety, and Hassan Paoha, who
has steadily carried out his master's
program, has ever sinoe boon in
high favor, and is, to all intents and
purpose", Minister for life. Loudon
Staudurd.
Russian Pennants Huts.
The floor of a Russian peasant's hut
is either the bare earth or that cov
ered with some straw ; lue walls are
white-washed. The general appear
ouce is that of cieaniiuess. in one
corner of tho room a small lamp is
suspended before the ikon. A h'.rge
stove takes up one-quarter of the
room. If there is more than one room
iu the hut the stove is built through
the partition wall, so as to boat the
other room as well.
The stove is also whitewashed and
fed with straw. It is full of little
pigeon holes, into which articles can
be put to be warmed aud driod, From
it a platform of wood, standing two
and half feet above the floor, ex
tends to the opposite wall ; on this
the peasant sleeps at night. Thus
half of the available space of the room
is taken up
Cloths hang from the roof. Bound
tho wall runs a shelf, on which, among
other things, are the dark brown
loaves of rye.
U1U urouani, Me., lias a woman
paiuter of a new kind. She paints
houses and barns and fenoos, aud does
it for a livlug, and makes a good liv
ing at it
TO!. THE HOUSEWIFE.
HOW TO THRAT tETTUCB.
When lettuce comes ffoin the mar
ket immediately out off the roots far
enough to loosen tho larger leaves.
Wash it all thoroughly, spread out an
old napkin, or belter still a square of
cheesecloth, and place tho clean, wet
lottuco leaves, as though they were all
together like a peddler's pack and
plane it on' tho Ico. When timo for
serving arrives, though it be not for
two or throo days, the lettuce will be
clean, crisp and pcrfootly dry.' This
is the very best way to prepare it.aad
does away with drying each loaf a
procoss sure to bruise the tendor
leaves. Celery should bo treated the
same way. Cut off the big tops, pre
pare it for the table piece by piece,
wrap it in a wet cloth and keep on the
ice. At meal time there is nothing to
do but put on the oelery dish what is
needed and it will be clean, dry and
crisp. - New York Mercury.
AN IDEAL KITCIIBH.
The coiling had boon painted bo
fore the dry lug of the piaster so that
it could always be scrubbed when
smoke and steam and flies had discol
ored it Its tiut was the very last and
palest and coolest shade of blue.
The walls were wainscoted with hard
wood for a height of some six feet
from the floor, so that all spatter of
grease could be washed off at once.
The same compatible end would have
beeu attained, however, had the wains
coting boon of varnished pine. Above
tho wainscoting tho wall spaoe was
covered with a yellow draped paper of
the kind that receives varnish, and
that, owiug to the coating of varnish,
can be washed. The paper costs fif
teen cents a roll. This kitchen was a
donble room, the range being in the
outer room and a pipe from it running
through the inner room to the chim
ney, whiob did not overheat that
room in summer and made it comfort
able in winter. In this inner room
was the irouing table and the marblo
slab for pastry-making.
In both kitohens was a white porce
lain sink, open beneath with rows oi
hooks for pots and pans and bright
copper artiolos ; thore was no possi
bility of hiding places under these
sinks for uncleaned utensils or for oily
rags or for filth of any sort On a
sholf over the sink of the innoi
kitchen stood the lamps, and in this
room they were cleaned and trimmed
and fillod. The corresponding siuk of
the outer kitchen was usod for dishwash
ing and general kitchonwork. Over
tbis sink hung a doublo row of skil
lets and stewpans, the outside a dark
lapis lazuli, the inside pure whito por
celain. In the adjoining pantry were
places for the flour and grains, for the
broad aud cake and pies; a refrigera
tor for cold meats aud one for milk
and butter. In the kitchens them
selves were cupboards for the kitchen
dishes and for tho ironing utensils.
In the outer kitohen wore a sofa
and some rooking chairs, seldom usod
till after dark, when the varnished
roller shades were drawn down ; also
a swinging lamp over the rango and
another above the table where the
kitchen poopfe ate, and the whole
pluce looked then as if it were more a
fairy laboratory for the making of
flowers than a common kitchen for
the cooking of meats. Chioago Ba
cord. RECIPES.
Broiled Salt Mackerel Freshen in
cold water over night, skin side np.
Use a wire broiler and broil quickly,
being careful not to scoroh ; slip care
fully onto hot platter, squeeze a few
drops of lemon juioo over. Serve with
slices of lemon.
Veal Toast One cap of miuoed
veal, one cup of hot water, a pieoe oi
butter large as a butternut, one-half
teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon
of pepper i have ready on a platter
slices of bread nioely toasted and but
tered i when the minoed veal is hot,
pour on toast
Potato Salad Cat evenly one quart
ot oold potatoes ; chop fine half an
onion ; pour over French salad dress
ing and lightly mix. Serve very cold.
The dressing is made of three table
spoons of oil, one of vinegar, one salt
spoon of salt, one-half a saltspoon of
pepper. The potatoes themselves
should also be slightly salted.'
Gumbo Soup Fry out the fat from
shoe of baoon or fat ham, drain and
fry in it slices of a large onion until
brown. Put into tbis a quart of to
matoes and a quart can of okra and a
little chopped parsloy with about three
quarts of water, cookiug slowly for
three hours, Soaaon with two tea
spoonsful ot salt aud half teaspoonful
pepper. It only requires tor one din.
ner halt the quantities (for five per.
1 ions).