ARTIFICIAL LIMBS. BIAKIXO SUnSTITUTRS FOR MISS ING LEGS AND ARMS. An Industry That Is a Boon to Hu manity Various Processes of ' Manufacture Described Cost of Replaced Members. "7T CCIDENT trill (.imnon und r&A .1..1 A - 1.1:..-. T a avft unuvjLi siu a. 11 ra ii himiiiii?ii,iiiii the fcttificial article is truly a blcssinc. It appears to be a difficult task to de termine the date of the first appear ance of this great boon to humanity. For ccntnries the unfortunate cripple was an object of pity, neglected and entirely at the mercy of the unskilled urgeon. Crnde and cruel methods were nriopted by the ancients in cut ting off a limb. It was not nntil the seventeenth century that any humane means of stopping the hemorrhage was discovered. Previous to thnt, after a leg or arm had been knocked off by the use of a mnllet and a chisel, the stamp was scared over with rod hot irejjs Jo stop the flow of. the blood, i And even after all , tliis torture 'the sufferer was compelled to hobble about as best he could without the slightest lope of ever having Lis condition ameliorated. And vet some substitute for a missing morubrr was certainly found by the ancients, for Herodotus, who died in 408 B. C, tells us in some of his historical works of a prisoner who amputated his own foot to free himself from the shackle, and was thus nnblcd to escape and return to his homo, where his friends provided him with a wooden foot. An artificial log was found in 18S3 at Cnpua in a tufa tomb and is now on exhibition in the Academy of Sciences in London. At ti e feet of the skeleton where this relict was found lay three vases bear ing the date of 800 B. C, proving that the art of making artificial limbs is an old one. The beginning of the present cen tury, however, marks the time when CJZI FIRST FORMATION Wl f F'Rsr XX I I . START WOODEN LEG ARTIFICIAL LEG IS VARIOUS teal improvements were made in arti ficial limbs and shapely legs and arms and hands began to take the plaoe of the crutch and the stiff and immova ble wooden peg. Although frequently poken of as "cork" legs, that very useful material has never been a faotor in the making of an artificial limb. Artificial limbs are made generally from red or English willow. This comes to the manufacturer in blooks after a thorough seasoning of twe rears. For legs, these blocks are long Vcugh to form either the lower or Jdf or the upper or thigh part of the 'limb. Then there is the foot bloek. All the work is done by hand. Inven tion has not yet devised machinery for making artificial limbs. The first thing the operator does is to hew the loot block into some rough semblance of a human foot, and into this is put one part of the ankle hinge. Then the skin is rudely formed and the other portion of the ankle hinge is adjusted. When these two parts are put together nd conneoted natural working ankle joint is prouuoed. The ordin ary make has only the baok and for ward motion, though in some eases a joint having lateral action is fonnd necessary. This, however, is not often. The next point to which the work man gives bis attention is the toe joint. This is a simple contrivanoe to look at, but it is an ingenious pieoe f mechanism. It is difficult to get this hinge to exactly anit the step of the wearer. Then oomes the saoket lor the reception of the stump. This is work of great eue, for in the per fect fit here lie all the comfort or dis comfort. In one end of the original bloek as it arrives at the faotory ia a round auger hole. With a peouliar twl. abased like k book, with a sharp 7 i.i ni V i THlCrf P ? AMPUTATION eAgt the workman begins enlarging thi hole nntil he has made it fit the stump so that it touohes with precisely the same bearing every portion of it. ARTIFICIAL tEO FOR AJfrUTATION BELOW thr knee. If the amputation has been below the knee then comes the stout steel knee joint. The making and fitting of this port of the limb requires great skill. The necessity is found for a separate knee piece of wood. This is fashioned into a slnpoly knee cap, and so ad justed that each end works smoothly and steadily in either the top socket of the lower limb or the bottom part of the upper limb. The making of the various hinges which form the joints is an important part of the work. They are made of steel and car-spring rubber, and must be simply perfect in their adjustment to insure satisfactory results. When the leg has beon fitted and all the joints have been made to work ROUGH LET. BLOCK AND STAGES OP MANUFACTURE. perfectly the wood is smocthed on the outside. It is then covered with a coating ct thin rawhide and enameled. Bat with all the care exercised in the manufacture, the most difficult tank, perhaps, falls upon the person who is to wear the contrivanoe. In many cases it is difficult to learn to use it. Acoording to all acoounts people have more trouble learning the use of an ar tificial arm or hand than they do the leg. If but one arm has been ampu tated, the remaining member is made to do all the service. People as a usual thing find it much easier to learn to write with the left hand than getting the knaok of holding a pen or pencil between a wooden or rubber finger and thumb, but if both hands are missing it becomes necessary. In regard to artificial arms and hands some great results have been attained. The work on these is muoh more complicated than on the leg, but still hands are made with fingers that will piok np a pin or handle a sword with wonderful faoility. The simplest contrivanoe for making the fingers work naturally is a strap which goes over the shoulder. By "hunohing" or working the shoulder joint this strap is made to act upon a mechanism in the forearm and aotion is thus com municated to the fingers so that they will open and abut. - While it is advisable for anyone who intends procuring artificial limbs to visit the faotory in person to get perfect fit, it ia possible to get fairly good remits from a plaster of Paris cast. It is sometimes impossible for people to reach large cities where this work can be done aa it should, and in aueh cases the plaster oast aerves a good pnrpose. So also in regard to the cost of limb. A perfeot leg will cost about 875, while an arm, owing to the complicated mechanism, will oost from 810 to 8100. There are what the makers call peg legs. These are finished legs except that they have no foot. They are made with a peculiar joint at the knee, ao that the peg can be either stiff or, by turning a screw, can be made to work on a hinge, as the wearer likes best The, sooket recei.taole is hol lowed out in the complete leg, and ttiey can be made very oomfortable. There is a wide difference of opinion regarding the time that ought to elapse after amputation before the artificial limb ahonld be tried, but a fair aver age of all judgments on the matter sets the time at three months, and it will then take two weeks to turn ont a limb. . White willow, the chosen wood for the cricket bat, ia said to be disap pearing from England, 3. J. ACTOR'S OLD DWELLING. The Fur-Trading Headquarter of ;the Original Astor. To live in a house that was once oo cupiad by John Jacob Astor, founder of the greatest fortune in the world, ia to have encouraging surroundings. That is the situation of Mr. E. H. jST.?5-ii::----tSVi trvr. THE ORIGINAL ASTOR flOCSE." Clcrque, of Philadelphia, who is in oharge of the Saalt pulp and paper plant of Sault St. Marie, Ontario. The house is situated on the St. Mary's P.iver, the outlet of Lake Su perior. It is said to bo oua of the places which John Jacob Astor made his headquarters while engaged in the fur trade, in which ho made his for tune before buying real estate in New York. It was probably the furthest went ho reached. Tho establishment of Atorin, in Oregon, described by Washington Irving, was bis entcrpriBo, but he did not go there. Astor arrived in Now York In 1783, and a chance acquaintance with a fur rier on the ship decided him to enter the fur trade. At first he exported furs from Canada to England and re imported thorn to this country. Tbon a treaty with Great Britain enabled him to organize the far trade in the United States. In 1809 ho in corporated the American Fur Com pany in the State of New Vork. After wards he organized tho Southwest Company, with authority from tho Government to trade in the Indian Territory along the Canadian border. This company included the Mack inaw Company, a British corporation, and certain members of the Northwest Company, the greatest trading asso oiation in Canada. Many of Astor's hunters and trappers were Canadians. Astor's company was suppressed by the War of 1812. It is said that he made two million lollars in furs and the China trade be fore he began hie accumulation of real estate. The old bouse is built of very heavy logs, evidently with a view to defense tgainst Indians. There are loop holes for muskets. Mr. Clerqne has idded a story to it and furnished it in t very charming manner. The Tanderbllt Arboreium. All those Americans who are inter ested in the material welfare of their sountry will watch with interest what 3eorge W. Vauderbilt is doing on bis Vorth Carolina estate. Mr. Vander bilt, as is well known, ia making on ins eBtAte a sort of model forest, where loientfflo forestry is to be practioed, nd experiments made in aoolimaticg valuable foreign trees, and in the most profitable management of the native ipeoies ; but every one does not know that his plan includes horticulture tnd agriculture as well as forestry, and that he wishes and hopes to make his experience valuable to American furmers and land oirncrs everywhere. With this view, he proposes to build on his property a little village, in cluding not only n hotel, but houses and stores, where people interested in agriculture, who come properly intro duced, may rent rooms or bouses for themselves and their families, for suoh time as they may desire to study the work going on upon the estate. There can be no doubt that there will ba plenty of applicants, for howhere else in this country can such opportunities for advanced study of the sort be found. Fortunately for his country men, Mr. Vauderbilt is not only able, but willing, to expend large sums o.' money in experiments which may re turn, for the present, nothing but act vanoes in eoieutifio kuowledge; and it is just these experiments wnioh are, perhaps, in the end, ruojt valuable to the oountry. American Architeat. The Limit ot Folly. It teems about the limit of folly to hide money in a stove and leave it to the risk of fire, bnt even that line was passed by some nnkpgwq near Nor way, Ga., who stored a lot of cart ridges in a stove. A woman started a fire in the stove oue day last week and the cartridges exploded, destroying the sight ot one eye and otherwise in juring her. New York Sun.' A Sew Factor In Civilization. The motocycle, as the horseless car riage is to be named in future, has oome to stay. At Tunbridge Wells n exhibition of these vehicles has been moiocxcle, on roim-WHEXD tetbo lbum 010, held, and recently a motoeyole race at Chicago brought the new vehicle still more prominently before the world. The borse has survived steam ; will V be able to defy petroleum? liilHi UK NEW AND NEAT. SOMR 1.ATR DESIGNS IN GAR MENTS KOR WOMEN. gfjllsh Combination In a Waist for Misses Norfolk Dasqite for Gen eral Wear Picturesque Ma rie Antoinette Klc has. IN the first large illustration fancy boncle plaid is nnited with hunt er's green Velvet and decorated with narrow, dull gilt gimp and email buttons to match. The stylish waist is arranged over linings fitted with single bust darts and other usual aeams, and closes in centre baok. The full fronts and baok are gathered on at yoke depth. A pointed yoke of velvet covers the tipper portions of front and back, the front yoke extend ing to form a stolo in centre over the drooping blouse close to the waist line. The neck is finished with ft close-fitting standing collar of vel vet, and a belt to match encircles the waist. Full gigot sleeves are mounted HANDSOME WAIST FOR MISSES. over comfortable linings and com pleted at the wrists with flaring cuffs of velvet, edged with gimp to matoh yoke. Handsome combinations of plain and mixed fabrioscan be effected by the mode, whioh is suitable for all styles of material in wool or silk. The waist can be worn with gored or round full skirt to match, and serge, camel's hair, cashmere, cheviot or tweed will usually be chosen for prac tical purposes, with or without ailk, velvet or other contrasting fabric. The quantity ot 44-inoh wide ma terial renuired in mnba this iraalf fn a miss of ten years old is 2 yards ; for n luuneen-year-oia size, yards; for sixteen-year-old size, 2 yards. NORFOLK BASQCK FOR GENERAL WEAR. Cheoked tweed in Sootch heather mixture made the stylish basque pic tured in tha fltlmr tin.lnlnmn Ulna. tration. This lmsnnl aa. I X 1 aaww tor shopping, walking, driving, ejeuug or general wear. The adjust ment is Clove flttino tn ilia wiaf linn below nhich it falls with a slight rip- pie io lasmonanie length over the hips, the box plaits being graded and ap plied froill tha nhnnlilora an f? IhAAnnttin of fronts and baok to the lower edge oi Dasque. a belt of the material is worn around the waist. The closing POPULAB NORFOLK BASQUE. ia effeoted invisibly in centre front nnder the box plait. Two styles of collar are provided by the pattern, high rolling collar that is closed to the neok, a shown on the figure, and a low-cut revert collar to wear with chemisette, as shown in the small drawing. The fashionable full gigot aleevea are gathered at the top over comfortable sleeve linings and are plainly completed at tha wrists. This style of basque ia simple, in construc tion and dressy in effect, requires no deooration or trimming of any kind, is becoming to All figures, and for these reasons held in general favor, retain ing to-day the popularity achieved on its first introduction to the world cf fashion. Cheviot, serge, camel's hair, vionna, covert and ladies' olotb and all varieties of smooth and rough faced suiting in plaid, striped, mixed or cheoked designs will develop atylisbly by tha mode. Tha quantity of 44-inoh wide mate rial required to make this basqna for a lady having a 82-Inch bust meaanri Is H yards; for a 86-inch size, 4 yards; for a 40-iich size, 4 yards for 42-inch size, 4 yards. ORNAMENTS FOR THE ltAtR. Of late year' it has become tha fashion to wear tome ornament in the hair when in full evening dress. Tiaras, crowns and coronets are, of coarse, the handsomest ornaments, but, after all, the majority of women do not possess suoh jewels. Rhine stones, which closely resemble dia monds in their brilliant appearance, are deemed permissible imitatiyTvof the precious stones, and come inWny quaint and beautiful designs. Mercury wings are very popular, and are to be had in all sizes. When attached to a band ot the same stonos thoy make a beeoming and effective headdress, and can be worn with hair arranged either high on the head or low in the neck, or part way between. Young girls twist a bit of ribbon in their hair and tie the ends of the rib bon into a bow in asort ot wing shape, while the rhinestones are universally conceded to be more suitable for older women to wear. The wings are often used without the bandeau. In that case they are generally fastened to ft long ha roin. LAD 33' MARIE ANTOINETTE FICHUS. The picturesque neok draperies of the Marie Antoinette period are found among the dainty nocossories to the UARIE ANTOINETTE FIOHCS. toilette of the fashionable women. The soft, fine mull, chiffon, silk, muB lin, crepe-de-chine, or Brussels net, of -which tbey are usually made, draped around the neck in soft folds, with the fluffy, ruffled edging of soft lace or fine embroidery, render them graoef ul and becoming alike to young and old. No. 1 is here piotnred of bnttor-oolored chiffon, shaped in square or sailor ontline at the Daok, the edges being finished with frills of the chiffon, edged with butter-colored Valenoiennes laoe. No. 2 is of whit mull with deep frills of handsome laoe. It is shaped in round ontline in blaok and lies in soft, natural folds around the neck. The ends can hang loosely or tied in a knot over the bust, as here presented. The quantity of 41-inch wide mate rial required to make designs JSo. 1 or No. 3 is 1 yard for either 32-inoh, 36 incli or 40-inoa breast measure, , COATS COXI SHORTER. Coata to tailor-made gowns are made shorter, only twenty -one inches to be exact, with ripple in tha akirt, and they must be lined with silk and not satin. Last month, last week, may hap, satin was the swagger thing for lining, bat to-day it itn t A RATXLES9 HORSESHOE, . An Important Invention That Slay Prove a Hoon for Horses. In one respect the human race has made very littlo improvement during the past few thousand years. This is in the matter of horseshoes. Our pres ent method of shoeing horses has not changed materially for centuries, and has always been rude and irrational. One of the chief objections to the sys tem is that the boot is made to fit the shoe instead of the shoe to fit the hoof. This involves lot of cutting and scraping, and is the chief cause of lameness and stumbling. The use of nails is also a serious objeotion, as, no matter how careful the blacksmith may be, there are eases when ft tender spot will be penetrated. It is quite obvious that nature never intended nails to be driven into horse's hoof. The accompanying illustrations,' says the New York World, show a novel horseshoe that has been sub -jected to a careful and thorough trial on half a dozen horses. In every in- stance it has worked to perfection. The inventor is G. L. Beynolds, of Au bnrn, N. Y. Like a great many works of genius, the one in question is extremely sim ple. It consists of band of metal about an inch high, which fits around the lower edge (of the hoof. At the base of this band there is a sort of 1 projecting shelf, or flange, which is made to fit into a groove which runs TITE HORSESHOB) WITHOUT KAILS. around the inside of the shoe. The latter is made ot steel, of the usual chape and style. The only difference between it and the ordinary shoe is the presence of the groove and the absence of nail holes. When the band is fitted to the hoof (which is done very readily), the shoe in turn is attaohed by slipping the flange into the groove. It now re mains to clasp the arrangement by two screws in the rear. These may be turned to any degree of tightness de sired, and a moderate degree is suf ficient to prevent the shoe from com ing off. The whole arrangement may be put on or taken off in a moment. As the shoe is not nailed to the hoof, there is a perfect freedom for -expansion and contraction. This is very essential point, as all horsemen ' know. The growth ot the hoof is not prevented, and if there is any growth, instead of splittling the hoof, it serves only to tighten the shoe. All the strain on the band as it is tightened comes over the toe and around the tower edge of the hoof at the point where it is the hardest. The ease with which the shoe may be put on and taken off permits its fortunate wearer to enjoy a luxury that has been denied him up to the present time, for now the horse may remove his shoes before retiring for the night. We all know what ft relief it is to take off our footgear, especially , LOWER PART OF 8HOR. in damp weather. There is no reason why the horse should not feel equally relieved when deprived of his heavy iron clogs. Another point of advantage, on whioh the inventor properly lays mnoh stress, is the fact that the shoe is grasped firmly to the hoof at every point. Under the nailing system the last nails towards the rear are driven about half way between the .heol and toe. This leaves one-half of the shoe on either side unfastened. There is thus a considerable leverage, and it is for this reason that so many shoes come off. If this shoe is caught, say in traok, at the rear end, it is almost CPPER FART OF SHOE. sure to come off. This diffloulty is obviated in Mr. Reynolds's shoe. In fact, some persons have objeoted to thia shoe on the ground that it will never pull off in an aooident, thus ren dering the hoof itself liable to injury. The fattening in the rear is made by means of ft spring olinob, whioh may be ot any strength desired. It haa one end fast to tha hoof of the rear nn- right extension of the oalk, and tbe other end has metallio bearing, at taohed to the hoof an inch or mora farther baok than where the last nail is usually driven. The point of the screws, as they are turned in, press npon the centre of this spring, and thus, while the screw presses the clinch flimly down to hold the shoe and hoof tightly together, the spring reaote upon tha screw with equal pressure. Thia spring eases the solid, dead blow that is ordinarily given by the hoof when the ahoa is fastened by means , of nails. The lata M. Stambnloff was ft sol lector ot postage stamps. He had about 40,000 o' them, some of great value.