FASHION FOIBLES.
COM) WRATH KR STYLES IS
WOMAN'S DRK9S.
' Vh Handsomest Unsqne for Rtout
. Women Newest Sleeves Rrald
ins !lu Been Revived,
nd Is Popular.
' JIT HE idea that a plain, smooth
' I fitting basque id the proper
I mode for a lody of gonerons
proportions ii not correot
one, m the severity of outline brings
into undesirable prominence the glar
ing defects of a too stont figure. The
graceful lines produced by tbo smooth
wt or plaits on each front, the soft
fullness of the vest that is gathered at
the top and shirred elosoly in suecos-
i aive lines at the lower edge, with the
extra nnder-srm gore render the style
presented in the donble column illns-
- tretion aa ideal basque for stont la-
8TYL18H BASQUE
dies. Fanoy silk in dark Persian
hades is the material shown, the vest
and crush collar being of plain silk in
the lightest corresponding color. A
I -single row oi passemenierie outlines
I the second fold on each front, and the
basque closes mvisioiy in centre, n
plainer effect is desired, the vest and
' crush collar can bo omitted, and the
fronts closed with small buttons and
buttouholes, as shown in the small
drawing, and by omitting the plaited
fronts, and covering the linings
smoothly with material, a plain glove
fitting basque is the result. Full gigot
sleeves can be gathered or plaited at
the top, the wrists being completed
with a single row of passementerie.
This will be found an excellent model,
nd while specially adapted to the re
quirements of the stout, is becoming
to all figures. Crepon, serge, cloth,
camel's hair, Henrietta, cheviot, satin
or silk in plain or fancy wonve will
V UD,OIUl OMJ IAOUIJ 1T1IU TED, ,UU UUllltl
1 -of sott or sheer fabrics, velvet or
I ' fanoy silk.
I The quantity of 44-inch wide ma-
' terial required to make thiB basque
.yards J for a 88-inch size, 3 J yards;
for a 44-inch size, 41 yards, and a 46
inoh size, 4 J yards.
LADIES' AND HISSES' SLEEVES.
No 1 represents the new melon
dleeve in six seotions, suitably devel
oped in blaok satin, a narrow jet bend
ing outlining fonr of the seams. The
narrow under portions are shaped in
regular ooat sleeve outline, the other
cations having ronnded edges that
. narrow top and bottom in a style that
aoarccsts the name. A slriD of canvas.
tI feather bone, is sometimes laid un
r the seams to make them stand out,
jd ooat-sbaped sleeve linings are pro-
-Xided to support the adjustment.
ao. I represents the melon sleeve in
pale colored satin, shortened for even
ing wear. Each upper seam is deco
rated with a narrow frill of oreamy
laoe edging, headed by a row of ool-
(orea seqnins to correspond in color
to the satin. The lower edge is com
pleted by a band.
no. a is tne mandolin sleeve shaped
in t!.-ie seotions, with ample fullness
at the top, gathered between the
SLEEVES FOB LADIES AND WS8E9.
HHca to fit into the arm's eye. Ore
yon is lbs material represented, the
vppet seams being outlined with nar
row passementerie from shoulder to
wrists. These modes ars extremely
I uhr, and will impart nn-de-aieele
stamp to any basque or waist in"
whioh they ars inserted. It is edvis
. able to interline the seotions with
ctnoline, haircloth, or other atiff fab
rid if the coveted stand-oat effeot is
V ernantity of 44-lnob wide material
r -i to make that aleeves fdr a
I li- yard for Ko. 1 da-
sign, 2) yards for No. 2 design and Si
yards for No. 3 design ; for 86-inch
size 21 yards for No. 1 design, If
yards for No. 3 design and 2 yards
for No. 8 design ; for a 40-inoh size 2
yards for No. 1 design, 11 yards for
No. 2 design and 2 yards for No. 8
design. For the misses' sizes it will
take of the snme width material for a
twelve-year-old size lj yards for No.
1 design, H yards for No. 2 design,
1 yards for No. 3 design; for fourteen-year-old
size, 1 yards for No. 1
design, 1 yards for No. 2 design and
and 2 yards for No. 3 design ; for a
sixteen-year-old size 2 yards for No. 1
design, 1 yards for No. 2 design and
21 yards for No. 8 design.
EVENIXa WAISTS.
Odd evening waiMs to wear with
satin or brocade skirts ars always in
demand. What the modiste calls a
simple little waist for a this season's
bnd is a baby afTair of white chiffon
and fine laoe over faint pink silk. It
is cat square and rather low in the
FOR STOUT LADIE3.
neck and is outlined with a narrow
band of sable, whioh falls in three
tails over the blouse corsage. The
sleeves are voluminous puffs of the
chiffon, with its laoe insertion. They
reaoh nearly to the elbow and are
made over a foundation of pink silk.
Tabs ot pink velvet shirred and then
edged with lace fall over the top of
each sleeve in epaulette fashion. The
shirred velvet is also used to form a
rather narrow waist band.
BRATDIXO AGAIN REVIVED.
Braided effeot are exceedingly pop
ular in all sorts of fabrios this winter.
Intricate designs carried out in cord
like braid appear on many plain cloth
dresses. A broadcloth in dark green
was almost covered by braiding in
blaok. The front panel of the skirt
was wi ought from waist to hem in an
intricate pattprn. The bodice, whioh
was out low to allow the wearing of a
collar and chemisette, was entirely
covered with braiding. The melon
aleeves had their seams outlined with
rows of braid. Big, black poorl but
tons fastened the bodioe.
PLAIN AND FANCX OATES.
Short capes are much worn, and are
made in velvet, silk and plain orianey
cloth, trimmed with rookiags of lace,
jet and feather trimmings or with
bands of fur. Short, tight fitting
jackets are worn by young girls, and
are mad of cloth or twed or velvet.
They are sometimes tight fitting in the
book and loose in front
Bear are reported to be more nu
merous in the Okefenokee Swamp,
Georgia, this season than for many
are past, On farmer living near the
swamp had sixteen hogs killod by
beam within Mven days recently.
WILD RICE.
ROW INDIANS HARVEST THIS
PECULIAR CEREAIi.
Sown In a Mud-Hottomed Lake, It
Crowds Out All Other Vegeta
tionGathering;, Roasting
and Threshing. .
WILD BICE harvest is a
season of great festivity
among the Indiana living
in the region where this
peculiar cereal grows. This region.
says the Chicago Times-Herald, takes
in Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, the
Dakotas end Nebraska,
Of nil the gifts of nature wild rice
is the most highly appreciated by the
Indian, chiefly because It can be ob
taincd with less labor than any other
of bis natural foods, Uoveroment aup
plies alone excepted. The only care it
una iff ii
SEPARATING THE
requires is to sow it in a shallow, mud
bottomed lake. After that it will
flourish for centuries, orowding out all
other vegetation and spreading grad
ually until it takes up all of the lake
containing less than live feet of water.
Its only enemy is the muskrat. These
animals are as fond of wild rice as an
Indian, the only difference being that
the muskrat eats the roots while the
Indian prelers the grain. It the musk
rats get inti) a field of wild rice great
quantites will soon be found floating
on the surface with the roots eaten
INDIAN METHOD OF THRASHING.
off. This will continue until the en
tire growth in that particular lake is
destroyed unless the muslirats are
driven out, As the muskrat's fur is
valuable, the Indian has no con
scientious scruples against performing
the amount of labor necessary to keop
tbo muskrats out of tho lake upon
whioh he depends for a living.
In the woods of Northern Wiscon
sin is a body of water designated on
the maps us Sugar Camp Lake. It is
particularly adapted to the growth of
wild rice. It is several miles wide aud
the Whole northern end of the lake is
shallow, with a bottom of rieh, soft
mud. Its peculiar fitness for rice
crops attracted the attention of the
Chippewas years agh. A Chippewa
band established the village of Patwa
waosh on a pretty bay on tho north
side of the lake and sowed the bay
with rice. The descendants of this
band still live on the same spot,
though they have frame houses instead
of tepees. Every antumn they gather
all the rioe they need and let great
quantities go to waste, for wild rice is
a crop that never fails.
To harvest wild rice a birch bark
GATHERING
canoe is required. When the crop is
ripe the entire village sets out for the
lake. Two Indians get into a canoe.
One stands, using a long forked pole
to push the canoe through the rioe.
The growth is so thick it would not be
possible to use a paddle and the bot
tom is so soft and yielding a straight
pole would be worthless. The forked
pole eatohes on the root and give a
good hold for propelling .the canoe.
The other oooupant seats himself at
the opposite end of the oanoe with
atiok three feet long in each hand.
That stick are whittled oat with
great ear for this particular purpose
and art preserved from ytr to year.
As the canoe is pushed along the man
with the stick reaches out and bonds
all the rice he can gather with one
stick over the canoe, then hits th
heads a light tap with the other stick.
The rice shells off easily, though the
kernel is still inclosed 'in the chaff.
This process is continued until the
canoe is filled.
The next step is the roasting. A
potfnl of the rice is hung over a brisk
fire until the chaff is dried and the
kernol is slightly scorched. This is
to make it shell out easily and also "to
make it taste better," as the Indians
explain. It is now ready for thrash
ing. For this operation a bole as
large around as a barrel and a foot
deep is dug in the ground, the sides
being protected with split white cedar
"shakes." Two stick, breast high to
a man, are placed in front of this
hole and the threshing machine -Is
complete. A birch bark basket of the
scorched rice is dumped into the hole.
Then an Indian jumps in barefooted
i -m' i num.. iiimi ;
mum mh
RICE AND CHAFF.
upon the rioe, takes hold of the up
right sticks to steady himself and
prances around on the rice until it is
all thrashed out. Then the whole
mass is scooped or.t again end a squaw
tosses it up and down in a birch bark
basket until the wind blows the chaff
away and leaves only the kernels.
The rice is then stored for use. The
squaws know but one way to oook it,
and that is boiling. It tastes some
thing like ordinary rice, but white
men who have eaten it think it super
ior to the rice of the trrocerv store.
The kernels are from five-eighths to
three-fourths of an inch long, slender
and porfectly round, tapering abrupt
ly to a point at each end. It is black
in color. The stalks are somewhat
like oats, exoept that the leaves are
rnuon larger and coarser in texture.
The heads are twelve to fifteen inches
in length. The kernels grow on scat
tering, fine stems an 'inch and a half
long.
The inhabitants ot Patnawaosh are
happily sitnatod, for, in addition to
their rice supply, tho village is sur
rounded by a maple forest, which
yields an abundant supply of syrup,
the water pt the lake are alive with
fish, and it is but a few miles to large
cranberry marshes, which are a profit
able source of revenue.
Brooklyn's Foremost Citizen,
The venerable James S. T. Strand-
3. 8. T. 8TBAKAHAN.
ban has sinoe the doath of Heary
Ward Beecher been regarded as
THE BICE.
Brooklyn's foremost citizen. He waa
born in Madison County, New York,
in 1808, and in 1844 oame to Brooklyn
to live. For half a oentury, there
fore, be has been identified vaitb the
city, and has been an important fac
tor in its life and growth. He enjoys
the unique honor ot having had his
statue placed in Prospect Park during
hie lifetime by a number of admiring
friends. It stands close by the main
entranoe of the park, in the making of
whioh Mr. Btranahan bad ad large a
share. The veteran's fondest ambi
tion ia to lira to see Brooklyn beoome
part ot Creator New York. Monthly
Illustrator.
FOR FARM A5D GARDE.
BKMEDY FOR HARD MIMTINO.
Hard milking is commonly due to a
small milk duct or want of elasticity
of the muscles thut closa the end of
tho teat. This may be romedied by
making n smooth woodon or bone peg
slightly thicker in the middle thau at
each end, to prevent it from slipping
into iho duct. Aftor milking, this is
well greased with fresh vaseline, and
insurtud iu tlio teat. In a few days
the tensions on tho muscle will loosen
it and the milking will be freer. It
must not be oontiuned too long, or
the contrary conditiou a running of
the milk may be caused. New York
Times.
KHEflXd BEETS IN WINTER.
Beets are very tender and easily
injured by freezing. They are there
fore most commonly put in the cel
lar, ns that can be watched more
closely than pits, and there is less
danger of frost entering before tho
owner is aware. Yet as a matter of
fuct bncts are better kept iu pits than
ill cellars. If put in the cellar at nil
some earth should be thrown over
them to keep them from wilting.
Care should also be taken not to have
the cellar too warm, or the roots wilt
sprout, aud thus injure their quality.
Mangel wurtzels are better keepers
than beets. They ripon later, and
will not sprout so early when put in
a cellar. In feeding the beeti should
bo given out first, aud the mangels
reserved until later iu tho season.
Boston Cultivator.
MEAT AND VEGETABLES.
Hens are like consiu their fondness
for green, succulent food. It does
not much matter what it is provided
It be green. It will pay every farmer
to grow a plot of potatoes, carrots
turnips, onions and cabbages es
pecially for them. Hens thus fod are
less liable to disease, and produce
more and stronger eggs thau if given
an exolusivo grain diet.
Meat aud out bone should be sup
plied in wintor,but at this season they
are quite unnecessary, being only a
substitute for bugs and worms, the
natural food of the hous. Every op
porluuity should be afforded for ob
taining these, nnd ono of the best spots
is the orchard. Hens allowed to fur
ago iu it will perform a doublo work,
not merely ieediug themselves, but
protecting the trees by tho destruo
tiou of insects. Now York World.
CALV1NO TIME.
Most fai iiiors hnvo thoir cows come
iu iu tho spring, but it is a question
nhothcr it would not lie more profit
able to have thrin calvo iu tho fall.
This would enublo the fnrmor to give
them the attention which is impossi
ble when ho is rushed with his crops.
Milk and butter are at their highest
during tho winter, and the skim milk
will cnabla him to roar his calves and
feed his full-droppod pigs for the
spring market, while tho cows will bo
dry ut the time wheu tho farmer is
busiest and the milk lowost iu price,
But those aro not tho only advan
tages. In tho winter stablo tho cnttlo
are uot liable to the irritation caused
by insoots, or to be injured by aiul
den changes of tho weather, or chilled
by oold rainstorms, if only for a few
minutes. If the burns they occupy
aro so constructed as to keep them
warm, at tho same tiino being well
lighted mid ventilated iu such a man
neras to not allow the slightest draught
of cold n ir to come upon the cuttle,
they will givu a moro regular and
abundant flow of milk thau iu the
slimmer and of as good quality; but
all depends on the dilligenoe with
which their comforts are attended to,
Prof. Ilobertsou, tho C.mudiun Dairy
Commissioner, states as hisexperiuuoe
that a cow thus managed will give, iu
May, within a fraotiou as much milk
aa Bhe did u woek or two after calving,
aud if milked so as uot to leave one
drop iu the udder will keep up the
flow butter when turned out to pas
ture. Winter dairying is more profit
able than summer, aud it is just as
easy if a regular system is followed.
New York World.
INJCBV TO COUN FODDER BI EXPO80RB.
The unusually small hay orop of
1895 has directed the attention of
feeders to the most valuable of all the
agricultural side produots of our
state: corn fodder, or more properly,
tbo corn stover. The ouston has been
to leave most of this valuable feed
standing in the field and let atook take
what they would of it, after it had been
exposed to the frosts and storms. Ex.
perimeuta have repeatedly ahowa that
well cured corn atover is fully as vslu
able for feeding purposes as good
timothy hay. This oonoluiiou ia, the
result of practical fooding experi
ments, carefully conducted.
Tho chemical losses duo to exposure
are chiefly losses ot the group iu which
sugars ami similar solunblo bodios are
found. Those soluble substances are
the ones most readily digested and the
portability of, the food depends in a
largo degree on tho proper preserva
tion of these materials.
Cane growers know liow rapidly
cones deteriorate aftor a heavy frost
or splitting freeze Similar changes
take place iu tho corn plant which' is
related to the cane, but in a smallor
degree, sinco the sugars are present in
a smaller quantity. Tbe changes that
take place iu weathering result in an
absoluto loss of material of the sugar
group since they are converted
into compounds that pass off into
tho air. The albuminoids of the
corn plant ore mora digestibla
thau the albuminoids of bay. But
weathering has the same effect on the
corn plant as over ripeness In hay the
albuminoids are made less digestible,
and so there is a loss of available al
buminoids as well as an absolute loss
from the decomposition that is stead
ily going on. The hardening of the
woody fibre encloses the other mate
rials, so that greater resistance is of
fered to the action of tbe digestive
fluids aud there is less food material
available for tho support of the an
imal. The custom of allowing the fodder
lo stand iu tho field exposed to the
weather, results iu a two-fold loss ;
tho feed becomes dry and unpalatable
us compared with well cured foddor,
and thuro is also great loss of ma
terial. '
This loss of material is both me
chanical from the breaking up of the
leaves, and chemical from tbe destruc
tion of the constituents of the fod
der. About one-half of the total
feed in the fodder is fouud in the
portion ot the stalk bolow the ear.
Practically all this aud a portion of
tho stalk ubove the ear aro lost' if the
fodder is left standing iu the field.
Tho experience of good feeders as
well as feeding experiments carefully
conducted uudur chemical - control,
indicates that the most feeding ma
terial may be derived from the corn
crop by cutting it as early as is con
sistent with tho proper curing of tbe
cars. Danger of moulding may be
lessened by making the shocks smaller
than is customary. Shocks as small
as four hills square ure sometimes
used mid permit very froe circulation
of tho nil'. The labor of cutting and
hnndliiig is con iiilvrably lessonod by
the u io of smaller shocks.
So far as tho writer knows tho
oorn
stalk disease has not appeared among
cattle fed on properly cured corn
fodder, although tho diseaso- ocours
among cattle having the rango of corn
stalk fields. Homo and Farm.
FARM AND OARDEN NOTES.
Do nut stint tho horses that are
idle.
Trim your grape vinos carefully in
tho full.
Storo chats hardly ovor put mouey
in your pocket.
Kumombur tho vino boars its frnits
on new wood only.
Cut back the vigorous caucs to throe
or four buds each.
Horses should bo turned out for ex
urcisu every plunsaut day.
A good plan of feeding grotwid bono
is to mix it with other food.
Chios grown one year are the ones
to preserve for fruit next season. '
It is usoless to attempt to breed pro
fitable poultry from iuferior stock.
Wheu a strictly table fowl is wanted
the guinea will be fouud much the
best.
Unless severely pruned more fruit
will form than can beoome woll ma
tured. Don't let any ot the cropt which
you huve taken puius to grow go to
waste.
Baudaging a horse's legs will koep
them from swelling wheu in the
stable.
Oue and two-year-old vines are not
expected to bear fruit aud are eat back
j two or three buds.
It you have no warm stable let it
be tight at least, floor aa well as walls.
Draught is far worse than a steady
oold.
Various systems for pruning grapea
are now iu use. All are good in
their special way, but oonf using to be
ginners. Canes that have borne one season
never bear again, henoe the necessity
for keeping a supply of new wood
every year.
Train the vine ao it may be laid
down aud covered with dirt in winter
and raised and tied to stake) or trellis)
iu the apring.