Three Costumes
(EffilEMlIOTSmiPILlI
0 ?
ALKING COSTUME. Cloth or
Berge would make up well In
this style; the skirt has a
floating panel down front tak-
to within a few Inches of foot.
basque of the Russian coat Is add-
under a belt of black satin, the
ers are also of satin edged with
l:k and white striped silk: this
In a binding of satin trims the
ves; a frill of soft lace adds a
lib.
(at of black satin, trimmed with
lch feathers.
lisltlng Dress. Eau de Nil Vene-
cloth Is used here, the skirt Is
fitly hlgh-waisted, and Is trimmed
way down each side by cord
in on quite straight, with a waving
liarrower cord between; a row of
tons Is sewn on the inside, little
alngs aro left at tho foot, to show
WING THE FALL COSTUME
ly New Ideas Aro to Bo Found
Among the Latest Effects
Designed.
tactically all the new coats are
lo full length and cut on straight
They aro made ud In noncee.
finished taffeta and rubberized
Inong tho novelty coats for fall are
e made of taffeta or silk serge
1 lined with heavy cloth, tho cloth
Ig used for the trimming,
tits, and especially silk velvets,
I in the highest favor, and three
frocks are seen now where before
I were shirtwaists and suit skirts.
he large collar revers and deep
l-back cuffs aro much In evidence
Bw jackets. Quite a number have
Is trimmed to correspond with the
3ts.
te grandfather frill is still in fa-
Formed of a triple frill of point
Iirit net falling In a cascade down
side of the corsage, It makes a
ly finish for almost any gown.
ien sleeves are of the peasant
large folded back cuffs are usu-
employed as trimmings, with per-
a narrow undersleevo of some
Ir white material, net or all-over
roldery.
ick or dark blue taffeta tailor-
bs, trimmed with fringe, are one
le inventions of the year. Taffeta
hming into more and more favor
la strenuous vogue for it is un
itedly ahead.
TWO-SIDED JABOTS.
Ie modest little Jabot which used
1 In tho V of tho coat opening
(looks prim and old-fashioned, In-
New jabots are stupendous at
which make tho whole- coat
white and fluffy with sheer ma-
and lace frills. This Jabot has
ao side a rever of tucked lawn
Dace. At the straight eilgo of the
Is a jabot frill of plaited lawn
ace, very wide at the top and ta-
to nothing at the bottom. The
turns back over the left side of
loat front, the rever lying flat
Is tho right side.
pieces of matorial trimmed with cord.
The Magyar bodice Is trimmed to
match, with the addition of black
satin, which forms straps outside
cord, and finishes collar and cuffs.
Hat of Tagel to match, trimmed
with a feather and bead cabouchon.
Smart Dress. This, becoming dress
is made up in vieux rose delaine, pat
terned in black and white, and in
plain vieux rose delaine. The tunic
and lower part of bodice aro of the
fancy delaine, the latter Is prettily
trimmed with strappings of black
satin, which also edge tho over-sleeves
and yoke, while lace is used for the
under-sleeves and yoke; the lower
part of skirt and upper of bodlco are
of the plain delaine.
Hat of black chip, trimmed with an
aigrette and a large rosette of vieux
rostf tulle.
ADORNMENT FOR THE BABY
Much Consideration Has Been Given
' to Designs for the Small
Household Monarch.
Sunray shirring is coming In again,
and very quaint It looks on the little
white bonnets for infants and their
sisters of two or three years. The
backs of tho bonnets are stiffened
and round and tho side portions also
are shirred.
One dainty little bonnet of this
stylo is bordered with a band of white
fur, and a second has a narrower
band of mink and tiny dabs of the
mink over the ears.
Pink apple blossoms apepar on on?
model, and a cluster of round, pink,
unopened buds on another. A wreath
Is also a very pretty decoration, one
being just an applique of alternating
leaves and petals, the leaves being of
moss-green velvet and the petals of
pink silk. "White chiffon makes some
of theso bonnets and white bengallne
others. One combines the two mate
rials, tho chiffon being shirred in
bands and used to trim the more
severe outlines of the bengallne.
For a very new baby a long dress
has a three-Inch ruffle at the foot,
applied with cording. A bow of pale
blue ribbon, with streamers that
reach almost to the hem of the long
skirt, is caught at the left side near
the shoulder.
For a little tot in short dresses
there is a dainty coat of accordion
plaited white chiffon, with a forward
turning hem, and a little cape made
of white bengallne, embroidered.
Children's Garments.
The best-selling styles In children's
garments are those that are enniod
from women's wear, says tho Dry-
goods Economist. It is surprising how
becoming these Httla coots nro. SYr
example, the shawl collar and side
fastening, so popular with the grown
ups, aro also meeting with great suc
cess in children's coats. Thn namo
Is true of the hood effects, pointed col
lars, new Shane sailors and Innrnvn-
ble revers. Even the cut-up seams are
being employed by the designers with
considerable success.
Little Silk Boleros.
The dressmakers have experiment
ed with boleros for two seasons, and
they seem to have landed them Into
fashion nt last. They aro worn In
bright colors with white muslin gowm
or old-fashioned frocks of floral or
gandie. They aro finished around the
edge with a plaited niching of ribbon
or a ruffle of lace. The severs ones
have only a thick cable cord covered
with silk or satin.
To Clean Sliver Mesh Bag.
Any woman who owns a Gorman
or sterling silver mesh bag or purse,
and who has learned how one soila
light dresses and gloves, will be-glad
w Know mat she can clean it In a
few minutes herself at home. Just
take plenty of soda fcommon hakine
soda), this Is what the Jewelers use,
ana a little water and brush, rinse
wall and dry and think of the econ
omjr It looks as good new.
W
HEN and where cotton was
first utilized in the Indus
trial activities of tho world
cannot bo definitely estab
llshod. It linpn Tint nnnpnr
to have oeen cultivated or woven into
fabrics in ancient Egypt, and expert
chemical analysis of the cloths used
for wrapping Egyptian mummies
proves that theso materials were of
linen and not cotton. Tho records of
India, on the other hand, demonstrate
that from time Immemorial tho rnt-
ton plant was cultivated and Its fiber
converted Into wearing apparel, and em
ployed in tho useful and ornamental
arts. Cotton has nlsn hoon known nnri
used for a thousand years, at least, In
China and Japan. In the rich litera
ture of India this beneficent plant is
hardly more than incidentally men
tioned. Its textile value and uses
were known to the Hebrews nnd
Phoenicians, and nrohnlilv. thrnneh
tho latter, to the Greeks and Romans.
The Arabs and Saracens Introduced
cotton Into western. Europe In the
ninth century, but it was not until the
fifteenth century, when merchants of
uenoa brought cotton to England, in
exchange for woolen goods, that Its
possible commercial and Industrial
importance was realized. Although
Columbus gives no description what
ever of the cotton plant, later Spanish
and Portuguese explorers found cot
ton garments worn and cotton ex
tensively cultivated by the Indians on
the Islands of the West Indies and
In Mexico, Peru and Brazil. Cortez
sneaks hlchlv nf tho skill nf tho Moy.
lean natives in cotton weaving and
spinning. Plzarro found cotton fab
rics In ancient Peruvian tombs which
some modern archnonloeists trace
back to a civilization antedating that
of the Incas. Early Portuguese his
torians describe cotton as they found
it in Brazil.
Tho cotton nlant 1b n momlinp nf
tho Malvaceoe or mallow family, and
the total number of species actually
existing Is very large. In its wild
state it is apt to be a perennial, but
when cultivated it freciuentlv he-
comes an annual. In size the plant
varies from less than a foot high to
sixteen or more feet. The flowers are
either single or in clusters, varying
greatly In size, while the color ranges
from a yellowish white to a pale yel
low and a rustv red. There aro in
finite variations in the form and size
of the leaves, some being smooth and
glossy and others hairy, but they aro
always lobed, having three, five or
seven lobes. What Is known as the
"boll" Is,! for manufacturing purposes,
the most imnortant nart nf tho nlnnt
as it contains not only the seeds but
aiso tne lioss. Tho pure white va
rieties of floss, obtained by careful
cultivation and selection, are pre
ferred, but amontr the brown nnri met.
colored varieties there are some of
high Industrial value.
Cotton Is primarily a native nf tho
tropics, and the number of species
diminish rapidly in direct ratio to
their distance from the equator. The
cotton plant, whether wild or culti
vated, is found in a belt of land en
circling the clobe ho
grees north latitude and 30 degrees
soum laiuuae, though only where
local climatic conditions nro fnvnri,i
can cotton bo raised as far north as
45 degrees, as for example In Asiatic
Russia, which has the same latitude
as Massachusetts.
The chief cotton-nrnd 11 Pin nrAfiH f
the world embrace: in tho United
States, the southern states. Including
all those parallel with or south of
North Carolina, as far west as New
Mexico? practically all of British In
dia: and Egynt. whloh rnnlra tM...i
a cotton-producing country, followed
oy Asiatic Russia, Central China and
Japan, Brazil, Mexico and Pei
Among other countries where consid
erable quantities of cotton are grown
ur i-uu i,o grown, are Paraguay, Colom
bia. Venezuela and Central America.
The Latin-American field has remark,
able possibilities.
In the seventeenth century the first
attempt to grow cotton was made in
Virginia, and by 1C53 the staple had
already become of much national Im
portance In tho British colonies of
North America.
Cotton In England became a com
;etltor to the then strongly in
benched woolen industry, and its
ninufacture being made profitable
through the great Inventions of Ark
wrlght and others, it received govern
mental protection and encouragement.
Arkwright's and other English patents
er Introduced Into America, and at
the close of the eighteenth centui
Whitney's gin was invented.
Tho beneficence of the cotton plant
as an agent of civilization can hardly
be overestimated. Its sudden develop
ment is almost unpnralleled in the
historv of economic products, and its
enormous importance tuauy In the
agricultural, commercial and Indus
trial llfo of the world renders It diffi
cult to believe that scarcely more
than 200 years ago cotton was prac
tically unknown to the civilized na
tions of the west. The superiority of
raw cotton for the purposes of textile
manufacture consists in tho fact that
the fiber of its floss has a natural
twist possessed by no other vegetable
fibers, which renders it peculiarly
adaptable for spinning arid weaving.
Cotton and cotton wool, In medicine,
surgery and dentistry, have an over
increasing number of applications.
Finally, goods manufactured out of
cotton nre relatively cheap.
The usefulness of cotton does not
end with Its adaptability for spinning
and textile manufacture. Its seeds
furnish an oil which Is edible and of
Industrial valuo. The stems and
leaves furnish nn admirable fodder for
live stock. Indeed, there Is no por
tion of the plant that has not a high
valuo. Human Ingenuity has con
stantly discovered new applications
of its products, notably, the manufac
ture of gun cotton, a highly exploslva
substance, obtained by soaking cot
ton in nitric and sulphuric acids, and
then leaving it to dry. This sub
stance, when dissolved In a mixture
of rectified ether and alcohol, yields
nn adhesive liquid called collodion,
much used In surgery.
Every republic In Latin America
grows cotton. In some of them
Peru, for Instance and along various
parts of the Caribbean coast, cnttnn
is an indigenous plant, and was used
I
Open Boll of Egyptian Cotton.
by tho natives before the discovery
of America; in others It has been In
troduced because the soil and climate
were found to be nnrtlcularlv well
adopted to all the needs and ronulro.
raents of successful cultivation.
Mexico. Brazil and Peru aro tho
three republics In which cotton nnltl.
vation has the widest ej tension. In
Mexico the native cotton was found
along tho eastern shore, but every
state In the republic can grow or Is
actually growing cotton today, and
the annual yield would be very much
greater even than It is if other crops
did not prove at present more profit
able. The same assertion may be made
in regard to Brazil. Every state has
Its cotton fields, but only along the
Atlantic seaboard of tho mld-troplc
state Is It cultivated sufficiently to
form a staple for export. Almost
every state In Brazil also has cotton
mills, and theso form a very pros
porous Industry In the country. One
third the entire industrial capital of
the country, representing ?G0,O00,000,
fs Invested In cotton millB.
Before tljo time of modern com
merce the manufacture of the raw
material into the finished product was
necessarily a matter or domestic activ
ity, but as the mechanical arts prog
ressed in the United States and Eu
rope raw cotton was exporto-l, manu
factured abroad Into cloth, and as
such imported by tho cnun ry grow
ing it The United States eten today
continues this practice, as great quan
tities of raw cotton are exported to
the Bplndles of Europe to be returned
transformed into delicate fabrics
The same process is going on in Latin
America. The factories of these coun
tries cannot keep pace with the de
mand for cloth
STRUGGLING FOR CHAMPIONSHIP OF WORLD
RIGHTS OF A RUNNER
Cobb Declares Spikings Are Re
sults of Attempt to Block.
Greatest of Baseball Players Says He
Would Not Intentionally Injure
Fellow Player Football Tac
tics Are Used.
"I hate to be referred to a3 a
brute," says Tyrus Cobb, greatest of
ball players, and now in tho zenith of
his grand career. "It isn't very pleas
ant for a fellow to be called a rough
performer and a deliberate crlppler of
his fellowmen. I wouldn't intentional
ly hurt another player for twice my
salary, and yet, whenever somebody
bumps up against theso spikes of
mine, they all say I do it intention
ally, and discuss which would be the
better way to eliminate the spike or
to eliminate T. Raymond Cobb.
"Let's have a little understanding
about this thing and, also, let's go
back Into baseball history a little way.
Long ago there were players, some of
them much slower and heavier than
myself, so I am told by veterans who
knew them, players who, despite this
bulk and slowness, stole more bases
to the season than I do nowadays. I
find from the old guides that there
were dozens of men who made good
baserunning records, say from thirty
to seventy a season, and that this
wasn't considered at all remarkable.
And yet I fall to find In the old news
papers mention of many collisions, or
many cases where basemen were
spiked by the sliding runners.
"What does all that mean? Simply
this: that in those days everybody
recognized the right of the base run
ner to a clear field and a fair chance
to steal the next cushion if ho had tho
speed and skill. Nowadays the in
fielders think that tho way to stop a
runner Is to use football tactics; to
step way over on the side of the base
nearest to tho approaching stealer and
block him off from reaching the bag.
They receive you on their shins or
BIG SLUGGERS STRIKE OUT
Tyrus Cobb, Larry Lajole and Honus
Wagner Have All Fanned Three
Times In Single Game.
Those discussing tho "relative mer-'
its of the big leaguo batsmen, Ty
Cobb, Larry Lajole and Hans Wagner,
can no longer remark in any argu
ment against Cobb that tho world's
greatest ball player has been fanned
three times in one game while Lajole
feet, they strive to check your slide
so that it will bo a physical (Impos
sibility for you to arrive at the base,
and then they bring down the ball for
tho putout.
"It's worst of all at the homo plate,
for thero the armored catcher, with a
big body protector and shlnguards,
meets you as you come in and squats
on you or on the base path, so that
you can't butt through or squirm past
his huge bulk. As a result of theso
tactics nobody dares to slide head
first nowadays. Duff and McCarthy,
who were great base runners in the
olden times, have told mo that in
their day the acme of perfection was
the head-first slide, twisting the body
to one side and reaching out a hand
to touch the base. The man who tried
that now would get his hand spiked or
his neck broken.
"Now, under all baseball law and
the logic of common sense, tho base
runner has a right to try for his base
with a clear, field and no football
blocking. I believe that, and I Insist
upon it. Furthermore, I don't want to
play hog. Half that base is mine, and
I claim that half whenever I go after
it.
"I don't slide past the bag, nor even
over the boundary of the half that's
mine. If the baseman stands where
he belongs, on the half-base that Is
his, or on tho farther side, ho won't
get spiked, and ho has a fair, even
chance, if he is active with his hands,
to touch me out. That's square enough,
isn't It?
"If tho baseman deliberately comes
over the base, standing in the road so
that I have no chance to slide in ex
cept by violent contact with him,
whose fault Is it if he gets the spikes?
Think It all over and then decide; am
I a brute, a butcher or a reformer?
I think that I'm a real reformer, cor
rectlng abuses and trying to brin
back certain phases of tho game to
their condition in the earlier days."
ABOUND
Honus Wagner.
and Wagner never underwent that
torture.
Manning, who used to pitch for the'
New Vork Highlanders, set down
Tyrus three times in a game played
in New York. That was some time
ago. Still, Wagner and Lajole never
experienced tho same displeasure un
til recently, and a peculiar coinci
dence was that both Larry and Hans
fanned three times on the same after
noon. Peorge Suggs, former Tlgeri pitcher
for Cincinnati, handed It to Haiw,
while Ed. Walsh, who won' fame this
season ,by pitching a no-nit no-run
name, struck out Larry in Uvxce out of
cur times at bu
Ono hit games are becoming too
common.
Hughle Jennings has started out on
a still hunt for pi,.chers.
Cleveland has signed a Baskette and
Cincinnati a Bagby. Buckeye forever.
Chanco scorns to have a couple ot
O'Tooles In Cheney and Charley
Smith.
Sullivan Is the most contagious man
In tho major leagues. He bos been
catching ever since '09.
When Merkle of the Giants failed to
touch second in 1908 he asked Ale
Graw to cut his cable. McGraw re
fused and hasn't regretted it this sea
son. Hlldebrand, the Great Falls (Mont.)
pitcher drafted by the Reds, is hav
ing hib first season in professional
ball, and he made his entry by pitch
ing a no-hit game for the Great Falls
team.
The mid-season training stunt of
the Pirate's a two days' rest at West
Baden may be all right, but remem
ber what happened to tho Phillies
after Fogel took --them to Atlantic
City?
Tom O'Brien, who comes from Den
ver to Boston with Casey Hagerman,
Is hailed as the Marty O'Toole of the
Western league, and Denver fans will
be greatly disappointed if he fails
in this time up.
President C. H. Ebbets ot the
Brooklyn club has filed an objection
to the action of tho national commis
sion the other day in limiting each
club to 40 players. Ebbets says that
in trying to build up his Brooklyn
club he needs more than that num
ber and wants the olubs to vote on
the proposition before the proposed
new rule is made effective.
Fred Tenney, at present manager of
tho Boston club, was elected vice
president and director ot the club at
a meeting of the board ot directors.
Tenney's promotion to the vice-presidency
probably means tbaf he will
look after the business Interests ot
the club next year and Johnny Kllng,
the former Cub, who many think Is
now managing the club, will b se
lected as leader.