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For Black Footgear.
By treating all “dry stocks known
2s chrome tanned black leathers” as
follows they will give satisfaction.
These leathers include such skins as
the new gun-metal calf, box calf and
chrome wax calf, and are best treated
by giving them an occasional applica-
tion of olive oil.
In case one cannot get this vaseline
will do.
For blackening,
paste serves,
bolishing.
The same holds good for patent
leather, while a liquid dressing should
be substituted for the paste for glazed
kid shoes.
This same expert cautions one
against too frequent applications of
paste or liquid dressing for any and
211 shoes. These are hard on the
shoes, which often ‘require no more
than a rub with ‘a strip of flannel.
An old-fashioned wax calf requires
the old-fashioned paste and a good
brushing.
As for patent leather shoes, they are
more reliable than ever in the history
of leather tanning. The mere fact that
surface cracks appear at first need not
cause alarm, since these are hardly
noticed after a little wear, and a few
applications of the paste dressing pre-
pared for this handsome leather.
the usual patent
after which comes the
Heavy Loads.
There are those famous weight-car-
riers, known to all travellers, the
Swiss mountain women, who walk up
tne steepest slopes with pack baskets
of manure on their backs, and the
porters of Constantinople, one of whom
will hike a small piano on the curious
saddle he wears. Now Mr. Perceval
Landon, London Times correspondent
in Thibet, speaks of:hill-counfry carry-
ing that is most extraordinary.
On the Indian plains porters carry
eighty to one hundred pounds, but hill
men when working by the job take
three times as much up frightfully
bad paths. ‘I have myself seen a man
carry into camp three telegraph poles
on his back,” writes Mr. Landon, “each
weighing a trifle under ninety pounds.
Further East the tea porters of Se-
chuan are notorious, and loads of 350
pounds are not unknown. Setting
aside the story of a Bhutla lady who
carried a piano on her head up from
the plains to Darjeeling as too well
known to be likely to be exact, the
record seems to be held by a certain
Chinese coolie, who undertook in his
own time to transport a certain cast-
ing, needed for heavy machinery, in-
land to its owner. The casting weigh-
ed 570 pounds, and the carriage was
slowly but successfully accomplished.
“An, English bricklayer,” adds Mr.
Landon, “is forbidden by the rules of
his union to carry more than fourteen
pounds.” And in New York the car-
rying of a-few schoolbooks by chil-
dren without knapsacks is said to
make them lopsided.
Latest Styles in Side Combs.
Combs are vieing for poularity with
the many handsome flower and feather
decorations and the feminine heart
should be content with the splendid
assortment which is now for sale. All
fashionable combs are flat and only
the real shell is worn by smart women.
Side combs of amber and tortoise shell
are the best selection. Shun those
dreadful white rubber affairs that look
extremely unbecoming ana clumsy in
a woman's hair. As hearly as possible
‘the ornaments should match the color
of the hair, and for day and general
wear they should be plain. The more
elaborate effects are for evening, and
nothing makes a woman look so dowdy
as to see her wearing enameled cr
stone-mounted back combs shopping
or to business.
For the woman who possesses heavy
hair the big pins are a luxury and
keep her coils in place, while they
lend a decorative feature to the coif-
fure. But the woman with thin locks
cannot wear these. Not only does the
tiny barette at the nape of the neck
add an attractive touch to the coiffure,
but it is invaluable for keeping the
short hair in place. All sizes are used,
but the best taste will select those
which are rather small.
Costly Negligees.
Crepe de chine and its many varia-
tions are ideal materials for negligees
of the dressier sort, not intended for
hard wear, and particularly dainty
matinees of much draped handkerchief
type, with hemstitched borders, are
made of this lovely material in the
delicate shades. Accordion pieated
robes and matinees of crepe, inset and
trimmed with lace, are of brocaded
crepe in exquisite color harmonies,
trimmed with lace, and perhaps with
silk or satin in plain color, says the
Philadelphia Evening Telegraph.
The flowered ribbons that are so
wonderfully lovely this year are often
effectively used as trimmings for crepe
negligees, or, for that matter, for negli-
gees of any fine one-tone material.
Broad flowered sash ribbon is perhaps
set in, round the bottom, sleeves, etc.
with openwork stitch or edged by nar-
row lace or ribbon ruchings; ahd one
very successful robe in white crepe had
broad bands of rich flowered ribbon
running down each side of the front,
from lace yoke to hem and running
round the full flowing sleeves.
Tiny bouillonees of silk or velvet,
very narrow shirred or ruched ribbons
of silk or velvet, flat silk braids or
lace ruchings, applique embroidery or
lace in every form, embroidered or
stitched bands of contrasting maiterial,
shirrings, tuckings, cordings, smack-
ing, hand embroidery—these are some
of the many varieties of trimmings for
the negligee, and the expense of the
garment is limited only by the wear-
er’s taste and income.
Woman in Industry.
In a recent issue of Harper's Week
ly, Edith Abbott makes a spirited re-
ply to a recent article on “Women in
Industry,” by Flora McDonald Thomp-
son, which appeared in the North
American Review, Mrs. Thompson hav-
ing maintained that woman is a
“frightful failure” in industry, first
because “her average earnings are less
than $1 a day,” and, second, because
her employment has tended “to lessen
efficiency and to increase the cost of
production.” Miss Abbott combats her
facts and her conclusions‘at every
point, with the result that even the
skeptical observer of woman in her in-
dustrial relations is likely to readjust
some of his notions.
For instance, Miss Abbott finds that
in Massachusetts, which she considers
typical of the whole country, more
than 7 percent of the women engaged
in manufacturing industries earn more
than $6 a week. If one includes with
these the highly paid women who are
engaged in trade and the professions,
for whom wage statistics are always
wanting, the average rises very much
above Mrs. Thompson's average.
Apropos of the contention that wom-
an is an “economic pervert” amd a
“frightful failure” because her em-
ployment has tended to increase the
cost of production, Miss Abbott points
out that the increasing employment of
women has gone hand in hand with an
almost phenomenal increase in the effi-
ciency of American industries.
“Whatever be the principles on
which the business enterprises of to-
day are conducted.’ she says, “they
are certainly not run as charitable in-
stitutions, and it is a fact not to be
questioned that every laborer who is
a part of the great machine is there
because she can add more to the prod-
uct than his or her labor costs.”
In conclusion Miss Abbott disputes
the soundness of the theory that the
woman in the factory is encroaching
on “man’s work.”
“Just how the line of delimitation
between ‘women’s work’ and ‘men’s
work’ should be drawn, or why such a
line should be drawn at all, I confess
that I am unable to understand; but
it is a fact unquestioned in economic
history that women have been a part
of the factory system since it began,
and that factory work is clearly wom-
en's work—if there is such a thing.
For more than a hundred years women
have been patiently and efficiently po-
licing the machine, and to denounce
them today for encroaching on ‘men’s
work’ is to show one’s self unacquaint-
ed with the facts.”
Fashion Hints.
Colored umbrellas are carried with
tailor-made dresses.
In colors we shall have spots and
ombre of shaded effects.
Colored spangles are all the rage for
evening dresses.
Maize and all shades of purple 4nd
a tender gray-green will be popular.
Tartans will be introduced as trim-
mings in the form of piping or straps.
Ostrich feather scarfs will take the
place of last year’s pelerine stole, and
for theatres and later on for garden
parties the new chiffon muff will be
much in evidence.
Flowers are mixed together regard-
less of color. Crimson and lemon
roses, with blue forget-me-nots and
bunches of heliotrope are a favorite
Aower combination.
Dresden roses in a variety of strange
shades, pale mauve, pastel blue,
bright green, and cowslips, pink, blue
and green, are among some of the
curious flower novelties.
Leather appliqued sunshades of
strong silk in its natural color are
intended for motoring, and the summer
sunshade will consist of billowed chif-
fon encrusted with lace.
There is a feeling in dress which
tends toward simplicity. We are weary
of the overtrimmed styles, and are
happily returning to the long, noble
lines and flowing draperies which art-
ists love.
Evening bodices for young girls are
out almost in V hearts, square or
rounded styles. Elbow sleeves are
most generally worn, and these dress-
es are really becoming and modest
looking. Young matrons wear a wider
decolletage but it is softened by pre-
‘elles of velvet or tulle.
A Few Health Hints.
Once upon a “time the -insidious
grapeseed was looked upon as the arch
enemy of man’s appendix and the
chief cause of man’s appendicitis.
People used to look grave if they hap-
pened to swallow one unawares, and
an orange pit was looked upon in cer-
tain quarters ag sure death. With
greater experience has come a modi-
fication of these views,
lay great stress on the avoidance of
chills after exercise. or. when .much
fatigued in mind or body.
food well and not to swallow any
food that has not been perfectly sof-
tened. Aperient salts, waters and
pills must be avoided, unless pre-
scribed by one’s physician, and should
in any case never be allowed to de-
velop into a habit.
The Maid’s Reference.
The matter of references is most
important. The mistress owes it to
the maid as well as to herself to see
that these are all they should be. No
matter how excellent is the written
reference shown by the servant, it
should be verified by the prospective
employer. In many cases the mis-
tress of a departing maid will write
for her an uncandid reference for the
sake of saving herself an unpleasant
scene, or from a mistaken kindliness.
She does not wish to endanger the
maid’s chances of securing further
employment, and she prefers to
stretch the truth to being honest in
the recommendation she bestows. A
lamentable want of honor prevails
among housekeepers in this regard.
Too much stress can hardly be laid
upon this necessity for honesty in the
references given. It is the protection
of the maid as well as of the mis-
tress.—Harper’s Bazar.
Housecleaning the Kitchen.
First clear out the kitchen, shake
the flannels in the sunshine and pack
away in borax powder to discourage
moth visits. Next do up the curtains.
If they are very dusty they should be
thrown into cold water and rinsed
out. Handle them gently if they are
frail. Put into a second water, warm,
and let soak for twenty minutes or
half an hour. During this time have
heated a boilerful of water, to each
gallon of which has been added a tea-
spoonful of borax and half a bar of
white soap, shaved fine. Squeeze the
curtains out of the cold water. Lay
them in a tub and pour on the boiling
suds. Within another half hour they
will be white and clean. Rinse in {Wo
waters, and then add a little bluing
to the third. If the curtains are cream
colored, a little coffee in the last wa-
ter will keep the creamy tint. When
washed in this manner there is abso-
lutely no need of rubbing. To rub
curtains on a board is to destroy
them utterly. To attach them to
frames is ofttimes equally disastrous.
The best way is to equeeze them
gently and pin on to a sheet laid on
a large rug.
Where table linen has grown yellow
and dingy with winter use, do it all
up at the same time the curtains are
freshened.
If not necessary, then begin with
pantry shelves, next woodwork and
lastly furniture and floor. Prepare a
bucket of hot borax suds. To a pail
of water add half a cup of borax and
half a cake of shaved Castile soap.
Three or four pails should do the
kitchen to perfection, no brush is
necessary and no hard rubbing. Just
a careful wiping and drying. And
every stain should be treated the same
way, and if there are any old rusty pots
and pans dip them in a similar solu-
tion, also your silver and your porce-
lain dishes and your brasses, vases
and jars.
This solution will not injure any
sort of fabric, and is actually benefi-
cial to the hands.
The day following the cleaning, put
up fresh sash curtains of cheap white
or blue and white dotted swiss, and
make sure there are plants of some
sort in the window. Have a rocking
chair handy to rest in. while watch-
ing baking .or preparing vegetables.—
Mary Annable Fanton.
Recipes.
French Cake—Two cups sugar, 4
eggs, 1-2 cup butter, 1 teaspoonful so-
da, 1 cup of milk, 2 teaspoonfuls cream
tartar, 3 cups flour, flavor and frost.
French Dressing—Mix 1 teaspoon-
ful of salt, 1-4 teaspoonful of
pepper, a few grains of cayenne,
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and
four of olive oil.
Beat whites of eggs stiff; add a
pinch of cream-of-tartar to keep
whites from falling when the merin-
gue becomes cold. Spread same on
custards; put into moderate oven and
brown. This will make three small
or two large custards. The above
can be made into a nice cake-filling,
adding the whites of eggs
Lemon Custard—Two eggs, two
lemons, two cups of water, two cups
of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of corn-
starch. Put water into boiler. Mix
volks and sugar; add lemon juice and
the grated peel of both lemons, be-
ing careful not to grate the white
part. Add cornstarch, and pour all
into the boiler. Bake your pastry
light brown, and when your custard
cools pour into crusts.
Physicians’
It is also
of prime importance to masticate the
» would hardly
¥ Russia and the Cholera
Close Guard on the Plague Peculiar Part 3
of Minister Plenipotentiary’s Duties . . .
By Andrew D. White . . ...... neff rns aS §
PECULIAR duty during my last day in St. Petersburg was to
watch the aporoach of cholera, especially on the Persian
frontier. Admirable precautions had been taken for secur-
ing telegraphic information, and every day I received notices
from the foreign office as to the result, which I communicat-
Seofesfeaesgesfesterte ed to Washington. For ages Russia had relied on fetishisms
Sefoleiriololelel oe of various kinds te preserve her from epidemics, but at last
I : : i
i Fd EA 2% her leading officials had come to realize the necessity of ap-
plying modern science to the problem, and they did this well
In the city “sanitary columns” were established, made up of small squads of
officials representing the medical and engineering professions and the pclice.
These visited every nook and corner of the city, and, having extraordinary
powers for the emergency, compelled even the most dirty of the population to
keep their premises clean. Excellent hospitals and laboratories were estab-
lished, and of these I learned much from a former Cornell student who held an
important position in one of them. Coming to town three or four times a week
from my summer cottage in Finland, I was struck by thc precautions on the
Finnish and other railways; notices of what was to be done to prevent cholera
and to meet it in case it appeared were posted everywhere in six different lan-
guages; disinfectants were made accessible everywhere; the seats and hang-
ings in the railway cars were covered with leather cloth frequently washed
‘with disinfectants; and to the main trains a hospital car was attached, while
a temporary hospital, well equipped, was established at each main station. In
spite of this the number in the cholera hospitals at St. Petersburg in the mid-
dle of July rose to a very high figure, and the number of deaths each day from
cholera was about one hundred.
Of these victims the most eminent was Techalkovey. the composer, a man
of genius and a most charming character, to whom Mr, Andrew Carnegie had
introduced me at New York. One evening, at a dinner party, he poured out a
goblet of water from a decanier on the table, drank it down, and the next day
he was dead. But with this exception the patients were, so far as I learned,
almost entirely from the peasant class. Although boiled water was supplied
for drinking purposes, aid some public-spirited individuals went so far as to
set out samovars and the means of supplying hot tea to peasant workmen, the
answer of one of the muzhiks when told that he ought to drink boiled water
indicated the peasant view: “If God had wished us to drink hot water he
would have heated the ..eva.”—The Century.
2
Sr The, TYE
Modern .". Alchemy
Money Made Nowadays by Care Being Taken
8 That Nothing Be Allowed to Go to Waste.
By William Conger Morgan.
HE chemist examines and scrutinizes every kind of waste
“ the factory puts out, in search for something that can be
made of use. Three-fourths of the prepared paints on the
market today owe their existence wholly or in part to the
by-products of the petroleum industry. Carload after car-
load of dynamite comes from the glycerine recovered from
the “sweet waters” of the candie-manufacturer and the
waste of the soap maker, The myriads of buttons used
speak of their rise from the hoofs and horns of slaughter-
*
oan.
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house floors.
The by-products, having been thus called to the aid of the industries, have
grown to such proportions as to outrank some of the older interests, and what
was formerly waste is today the staple article produced, the former manufac-
tured product having become the by-product. Some are doubtless familiar
with the old method of “burning charcoal,” in which the wood was piled in
heaps, covered with turf, and set on fire. The smoke rose lazily week after
week, while the pile was watched day and night lest the fire should break out
and consume as well as char. Finally the mound was torn apart and the coal
obtained. By this method three-quarters of the weight of the wood disap-
peared. An investigation proved that an amount of fuel gas equal in weight to
the charcoal produced was lost, besides about 1 percent of wood alcohol and
acetic acid. One percent seems a small fraction, but in this instance these
products are of prime importance. Today the process is entirely changed.
The wood is piled on steel cars and.run into huge masonry chambers heated
by furnaces. Here a few hours accomplish the«work of the same number of
weeks in the older process. The charcoal stays on the cars while the volatile
portions pass off. Lime takes the acid out of the mixture, the alcohol con-
denses, and the gas is piped around tc the furnaces and burned. Should this
gas furnish insufficient fuel, the charcoal is burned also, and thus one cord of
wood furnishes the means of heating the next.
The process then becomes, not one for the production of charcoal, but for
the manufacture of wood-alcohol and acetic acid. This 1 percent of wood-al-
cohol made in the United States alone in one year is worth $4,000,000, the
acetic acid another million, while the whole amount of charcoal produced
would sell for less than this last figure.—Harper’s Magazine.
- o tJ
pre ©
i Do Blondes Lack Depth?
Coren
OME one has said that “the best part of beauty is that which
no artist can paint.” In other words, the mere regular out-
S lines of a beautiful woman's face can be reproduced upon can-
vas, but the nobility and character underneath can only be
= suggested. To my mind, any woman can have a sort of doll-
baby beauty, particularly in these days of artistic “make-ups,”
but the really beautiful person is the one whose face is
stamped with that indefinable something that holds one’s ad-
miration after one has picked to pieces any flaws her features
alone: may contain.
That is* why blondes have never appealed to me, for there is only one
blonde in. a thousand whose face has any strength whatever, and when a face
lacks depth and expression it simply reverts to an inane prettiness, noticeable
particularly in milliners’ dolls in shop windows. In that respect the tall, dig-
nified, stately brunette, with her imposing air, deer, midnight eyes and manners
of an empress, goes far ahead of the little blonde, with her shaliow face, ‘whose
scope of existence is rarely more than that of a woodland butterfly, while her
far more brilliant sister is holding the reins of the world.
A blonde seldom wears. See her once and you've seen her as she lvare
is; but in the face of a brunette one is always discovering some new depth and
change as one can watch the varying colors of the chameleon. A blonde is
like a water-color; the handsome brunette resembles rather an oil painting of
one of the old masters.
The woman whose soul
By Pauline Lorrington.
shines through her face—the really great woman—
is the brunette. No beauty can rival hers, for no beauty is so lasting.—New
York American.
How to Rea
i BEADING is not a lost art to the same degree that conversa-
R tion is, but it has in most cases an arrested development
x o
By H M. Alden, Editor of
Harper's Magazine.
through so much reading that makes no demand upon aes-
thetic sensibility, so that one is apt to bring to a fine story
full of delicate shades of thought and feeling, the same mind
which he vields to a newspaper, putting a blunt interroga-
tion as to its meaning as conveyed in the terms of a rational
proposition, and the writer's charm is wholly lost upon him.
While the reader’s surrender to the author must be com-
plete, his attitude should not be passive, but that of active responsiveness and
partnership. This reception involves that quick selec tion we spoke of a while
ago as contrasted with the slow and contr ACs D nsion of fhe plodding
reader. We had in view a vital selection, a ki not a selection
implying ationtion or neglect as in cursory
read books by a scrutiny of their table of contents, ©
be applicable to real literature.
5 i to have
THE ComMron HOUSE FLY
(+) (+)
33! By HAROLD SOMERS
Whenc2 He Comes and
Whither He Coes.
ELLA NORE OCONEE bet bbb tt abe
RE et
IIE common house fly (Mus-
ca Domestica) ig a creature
0 T 8 of such secretive habits,
¥ Rr that although from the
POI very carvliest times he has
been with us, and the most ancient
writers have mentioned and described
him, still very little was known of Lis
origin and history
It remained for the eminent Boston
biologist, Dr. A. 8. Packard, in 1873, to
make known its origin, habits and
transformations from the egg through
the larva state with its two changes to
pupa state, then to the perfect fly.
Near the first of August the female
lays about 120 eggs of a dull gray
co.or, selecting fresh horse manure in
which to deposit her eggs, and so se-
cretes them that they are rarely seen;
it takes only twenty-four hours for
them to hatch into the first form of
larva, a white worm one-quarter of an:
inch in length and one-tenth in diame-
ter. They feed on the decaying matter
of their environment, and two changes
or casting of skins occur befofe they
turn into the pupa state; this change
comes very suddenly. The entire per-
iod from the egg to the pupa state is
from three to four days. If moist food
is wanting when in this condition they
will eat each other and thus decrease
their number Heat and humidity
greatly assist their development, as
upon careful computation each pound
of manure around stables and out-
houses develops under favorable condi-
tions over 1000 flies. It is no wonder
that where these conditions exist we
have such a veritable harvest of the
fly pest.
In the pupa state when the fly is
about to emerge, the end of the pupa
case splits off, making a hole through
which the fly pushes a portion of its
head, but here it seems to encounter a
difficulty; the pupa case is too stiff and
hard to pass through, but nature comes
to its assistance, and a sort of bladder
( like substance forms behind the head,
which swells out apparently filled with
air; it acts as a means of pushing
away the pupa case and releases the
fly. When the fly first emergés it runs
around with its wings soft, small and
baggy; it is pale and the colors are
not set; its head rapidly expands and
the bladder formation passes away—
within a few hours the wings grow
and harden, it is now a perfect fiy.
The wholz time from the depositing
of the egg to the perfect fly is not over
ten days in duration. Many persons
who observe small flies in midsummer
suppose they are the young, but such
is not the case; they are flies that are
imperfectly nourished in the larvae
and pupa states, and do not attain
full size, in fact, they are the dwarfs
of their race. ~The male fly differs
from the female in the front of the
head between the eyes, being at least
one-third narrower, though in size the
female is rather smaller
In the pupa state they are often fed
upon by the larvae of some of the
beetles, notably that of the carpet bee-
le, whose pupa, the dreaded buffalo
“moth,” will attack the young fly in
the pupa case and eating it possess the
case for itself,
Adult flies like most other creatures
have parasites of minute size that prey
upon them; these can often be seen as
presenting small red specks over the
body of the fly.
The fly hibernates in winter, but
with his usual secretive Labit it is very
difficult to find him in his winter quar-
ters. With the first chill of autumn
the flies feeling the cold, seek tempor-
ary warmth in houses, and clustering
together form bunches in the corners
of walls and other places. They are
then sluggish and not so active as in
the warm weather However, they do
not make a permanent stay indoors,
but on the first mild, sunny day. seek
the windows to get out and find their
permanent winter hiding place; many
prefer to make their homes in the
roots of grass on lawns where they
hide themselves so effectually that the
ice and snow of winter does mot de-
Stroy them in their hibernating state.
If in the first warm days of spring
when the snow is gone and the grass
on the lawns becomes dry and warm,
long before the yellow dandelion shows
its head, a close observer may see num-
bers of flies crawling up on the grass
to get the welcome sunshine, their
wings standing out stiff and useless,
but they soon acquire the power of
flight in the warm rays of the sun. A
great many days, however, elapse be-
fore they appear in the homes of men,
where they are such unwelcome visit-
ors,
Im recent years the medical profes-
sion have demonstrated that while the
fly itself does not propagate disease it
is one of the most industrious carriers
of disease germs which by contact ad-
here to his feet, hairy legs and body,
distributing them to. innocent victims.
If every housekeeper could know al}
these interesting facts which have
never before been brought to their at-
tention they would realize the impor-
tance of securing the very best iy ex-
terminator
Jap Steamship Company.
The numbear of steamers owned by
the Nippen Yusen Kaisha, cr Japan
Royal Mail Steamship Company, is
seventy, of 236,256 gate tonnage,
with another gress
tons now
half year
aero
agg
steamer
building. The