sd
wi
&-r
NO SUCH THING
AS “NEW” STIL
ES
U.S. EXPLOYMENT
S BUREAY!
ioe d 8
Ghaiges Merely Sia Siages oi 6ract Labor Laarcanl 10 Act
Ever Revaiving Cycle.
VIEWS GF ARCHAEOLOGIST.
Annual Report of Smithsonian Institu-
tion Says Leg of Mutton Sleeves and
Flounced Skirts Are Seen In Fres-
coes of 3,300 Years Ago—Origin of |
Styles.
Washington.— There are no such
things as new styles in women’s fash-
fons, according to Pierre Clerget, di-
rector of the high school of commerce
of Lyons, France, as it appears by the
annual report of the Smithsonian insti-
tution.
Pierre Clerget after reviewing fash-
fons from the days of the Egyptians to
the present time shows that many
“new’’ styles for 1915 were known in
the period B. C.
“An English archaeologist, Mr. Ev
ans,” writes M. Clerget, “found in the
Mycenaean palace of Knossos in Crete
some frescoes painted 1,400 years be
fore our era showing ladies of the
court clothed in resplendent garments
with enormous leg of mutton sleeves
held to the neck Ly a nariow ribboi:
their flounced skirts. ornamen ed with
embroidered bands. are expanded be-
hind by enormous bustles.”
Thus is the bubble of the modern
“creation” of styles pricked,
It was during the reign of Francis I.
and Henry II, in the fourteenth and
fifteenth centuries, that women's
gowns took on lines conforming to the
body, having previously been chiefly
tunics or robes. Women then appeared
with fitted doublets, skirts and wraps
with collars. And this, says the author,
was ‘the starting point of fashion
which will sleep only for perpetual re-
awakening, making evolutions in irreg-
ular cycles at the will of its creators.
“The reign of Henry IV. brought us
the great bell skirt, built on springs,
which we find later with the crinoline,”
he says. ‘Then toward the end of the
seventeenth century the fullness dimin-
ished, giving way to padded dresses.
Reduction in the size of the skirt con-
tinued until about 1750, when fullness
again came into fashion, and by 1785
the skirts were ridiculously full. There
was another reaction, the hoopskirt,
gave way first to the bustle, then to
the one piece gown.
“Skirts were very full again toward
A810 and, passing through all sorts of
‘graduations, with a partial return to
fullness in the back, ended in 1860 and
1865 in the culminating point of the
crinoline. This marks the departure ;
from orientalism and brings us toward
the epoch when very simple and
straight robes were worn, until we
reach the other extreme, the clinging
gown, not forgetting the harem skirt,
an exaggerated revised edition of the
eccentricities of the period from 1805 to
1815.”
And so the cycle revolves.
After outlining the effect upon styles
exerted first by monarchs and then
more recently by modistes, M. Clerget
gives an expose of the manner in which
many styles are created and of the
trifle often necessary for their coming
into being.
“Any striking idea may inspire a
fashion,” he says. “Under Louis Phil-
Mppe all fashionable young men of the
capital wanted their trousers plaited at
the. hips like those of the African
chasseurs. Trocadero ribbons became
the rage as a souvenir of the voyage
of the Duke of Angouleme to Spain,
and the Russo-Japanese war gave us
the kimono. It is to the passion for
sports that we owe the English styles,
the success of the tailor made costume,
the fashion for furs and leather gar-
ments,
“Literature also has been a great in-
spiration, as shown by the works of
Victor Hugo. The use of white mus-
Hns was the inspiration of Taglioni, as
were the ‘waves of the Danube’ taf-
fetas, while ‘Atala’ collars and the
‘Marie Stuart’ hats were successively
worn.
“And, while we have spoken up to
this point simply of clothing, we should
pot think that this is the limit of fash-
fon’s domain. It controls conversation,
the manner of walking, how to shake
hands. Such a word as ‘epatant’ (stun-
ning) owes to fashion its recent admit-
tance to the ‘Dictionary of the Acade-
my.” The general use of such a drink
as tea, the abandonment of wine in
certain circles, vegetarianism, may all
be regarded as fashions. The passion
for traveling and for sports becomes
‘widespread, there is less taste for
home, there is less desire for books and
interior ornaments.
d UBaliig i. 0uSe.
Complete Preliminary Efforts to Bring
Together Those Who Want Work and
Those Who, Want Workers — Post-
masters Distribute Application Blanks
to Unemployed.
Washington.—The department of la-
bor has completed the preliminary
work in connection with the federal
employment bureau, and necessary
blanks are being sent to employers
throughout the country and to post-
offices for distribution to those who
are seeking employment.
In a speech before the convention of
the American Federation of Labor at
Seattle, Wash., on Nov. 12, 1913, Secre-
tary Wilson said he appeared to convey
the statement “that the department of
labor as now organized and directed
will be utilized to co-operate with the
great trades union movement." Sec-
retary Wilson also stated that ‘the
Photo ® by American Press Association.
SECRETARY OF LABOR WILSON.
organic act creating the department of
labor, in its ultimate analysis, presup-
poses dealing with trades unions and
through trades unions for the better-
ment of wage earners, and properly
80.” He added: ‘All trades union
movements may profit by the assist-
ance of this department of the govern-
ment. Of what value would it be to
mediation to apply to the department
of labor to interfere, to use its good
offices in an effort to bring about an
adjustment of a trade dispute, if the
workers themselves are unorganized.
if the workers themselves have no eco-
nomic force that they can use?”
The postmasters throughout the
country will distribute the application
blanks to the unemployed, who will
fill them out and return them to the
postmaster to be forwarded to the de-
partment of labor postage free.
The applications for employment are
designed to cover practically all forms
of employment, both skilled and un-
skilled, in addition to domestic work
and farm labor. The applicants are
required to answer numerous questions
as to age. height, weight, trade, na.
tionality, qualification for labor other
than trade mentioned, languages spo-
ken, name of two former employers,
reason for loss of last employment and
wages expected.
One difficulty in the present federal
employment bureau plan is the ques-
tion of transportation. On the appli
cation blanks the unemployed are ask
ed to state what, if any, money they
can afford to pay for their transporta
tion to a job, and the employer also is
asked to state what, if any, money he
will advance for transportation to
bring the unemployed to the job he de
sires to fill. It is obvious that the
prepared to pay his own transportation
if the railroad fare amounts to very
much.
Commissioner of Immigration Cami
netti in his last report suggested that
a part of the money received from the
fmmigration service, of which there is
now $10,700,000 in the treasury, might
be used for such a purpose. Should
the question of such a utilization of so
large a fund be brought to the atten-
tion of congress it is certain it would
be carefully scrutinized before consent
was given.
Strong Talker.
“Mr. Smith. won't. you please talk
to me?”
“Why, certainly, my little girl. But
what do you want me to say?”
“Won’t you please talk like you did
when you were talking to yourself in
the library when the dog jumped at
you? Mine's so straight, and mamma
said the way you talked made her hair
curl.”—Baltimore American.
Every Kind In Stock.
“Will you direct me to your range
“What are the economical results of
fashion?’ asks M. Clerget. And his
answer is * af any and varied.”
Changine fashions. he points out.
tend to aid first one commercial branch
then anotlier, and so on indefinicely.
In the matter of mx: tories, Lhe says.
the demand is growing grea for
eheaper stuffs of poorer quality and
Jess durability
But greatest of all sins which can be
aid at the door of fashion is that “in-
tellects are made frivolous thereby.
Those who pride themselves on appear-
Ing elegant are obliged to make the
elothing of themselves a veritable oc-
cupation and study, which assuredly
does not tend to elevate the mind, nor
does it render them capable of great |
{ mot
department?” asked the lady in the big
department store.
Certainly,
me qa,
replied the po
O0TWi ker; e
kitchen or
sman.
lite
+
IS CPENED
OVERS COUNTRY
average man out of work cannot be .
FAKY CROSBY'S
SFLERLID CAREER
Blind, She Was Author of
6,000 Hymns.
WAS IN NINETY-FIFTH YEAR
Composed “Safe In the Arms of Jesus”
In Fifteen Minutes — Was
Player on Guitar and Piano — She
Wrote First Hymn When She Was
Forty-five Years Old.
Fanny Crosby, the blind hymn writ-
er, who died at her home in Bridge
world, her contributions being S0 nu-
merous that a quarter of a century °
ago hymn book makers gave her 200
different pen names in order to make it |
of other authors. No single person had
anywhere near as large contributions
to the gospel song books since the days |
of Charles Wesley or Isaac Watts.
Miss Crosby, as she was best known,
although she was married in 1858 to,
Alexander van Alstyne, a blind teach- |
er, who dicd in 1902, was born in Put-
nam county, N. Y., on March 24, 1820.
She was christened Frances Jane Cros:
by. Her blindness was said to be due
to the error of a physician who or-
dered the application of hot poultices
to ber eyes when she was six months
old, therebv destroying the "optic
nerves.
But the fact that she was blind did i
not depress the child, and Miss Crosby
has said that despite her affliction she
could “climb a tree or ride a horse as
well as any one.” When she was only
eight years old she first displayed her
talent by this bit of verse:
Oh, what a happy soul am I!
Although I cannot see.
I am resolved in this world
Contented I will be.
How much blessings I enjoy
That other people don’t;
To weep and sigh because I'm blind,
I cannot and I won't.
Instructor of the Blind.
At the age of nineteen Miss Crosby
‘was sent to the New York Institution
For the Blind and became so profi-
cient that she was made an instructor.
She never learned to read by the raised
letters, however. For twelve years
she taught English grammar, rheto;
Greek, Roman and American hist Tx:
It was while at the institution that
she met Mr. Van Alstyne. During
this period of her career she wrote
poetry and secular songs, one of the
most popular of the latter being “Rosa-
lie, the Prairie Flower.” Several of
her volumes of poetry were published.
Fanny Crosby was forty-five years
old when she wrote her first hymn.
Some of the most beautiful and popu-
lar of these came to her as if by in-
spiration. 1t is said that one of her
best known hymns, “Safe In the Arms
of Jesus,” was composed in fifteen
minutes, while W. H. Doane, who had
written music for many of her hymns,
was waiting to take a train. He play
ed on the piano the music for which
he wished her to compose the words.
The blind hymn writer had a strong
feeling for rhythm and a keen enjoy-
ment of music, and in her time had
been a skilled performer on the guitar
and plano. In the case of some of her
songs and hymns she composed both
words and music. She used to have a
sweet soprano voice, and her sense of
harmony was so strong that anything
lke a discord jarred on her ear and
would even awaken her from sleep.
8ome of Her Best Known Hymns.
Some of Miss Crosby's best known
hymns are “Saved by Grace,” ‘“Bless-
ed Assurance,” “Rescue the Perish-
ing,” “1 Am Thine, O Lord,” “Just a
Word For Jesus” and “Jesus, Keep
Me Near the Cross.” She composed
with great rapidity and always had
her verses complete in her mind be:
fore committing them’ to pape Many
years ago Phillips Brooks gave her
seventy-five topics and asked her to !
write verses Hased on them. She com
posed every one of the hymns before
a line of any of them was placed on
paper.
Miss Crosby's songs and hymns were
translated into every language and
have been sung in every country of
the world where the Christian religion
has reached. Hundreds of thousands
who sang her songs, so many of which
were published under pen names, did
not know that it was a blind woman’s
Inspiration which they employed to
express their Christian faith and hope
in song. Among her songs other than
hymns which were very popular fifty
years ago were “Proud World,” “Good-
by; I'm Going Home,” “Hazel Dell.”
“The Honeysuckle Glen” and “Never
Forget the Dear Ones.”
Throughout her life Miss Crosby's
¢heerful spirit was unaffected by her
affliction. She once said: “I do not
Enow our (ua. vn tne waoole it has
beer a good thing that I have been
blind. How in the world could I have
Hved such a helpful life as I have
were it not that I am blind? I am
very well satisfied.”
8he remained active almost until her
death and in May. 1911, when she
was ninety-one years old, attended a
mass meeting arranged by the evan
| Bved to be 102 ye
| mother
gelistic comitiee at Carnegie hall, in
New York city. Miss Crosby's mother
and her gwend-
ars.
to be 106 ye
Skilled
‘ Ream amassed a vast fortune, leaving
port, Conn., at the age of ninety-four :
years, was the author - of more than
8,000 hymns which have been sung in |
the Protestant churches through the farmer of near Windber, has gone to
| a Johnstown hospital, where he will
appear that the hymns were the work | given him trouble.
| the trouble Mr. Hoffman faces.
| owns one of the biggest and best
| gone dry.
| week.
| could not haul
this problem by fastening the rope to
i her automobile.
Jumping into her machine, she
switched on the power and soon had
Young safely on the shore. Then she
drove him to the home of his unele in i
| THROUGHOUT THE COUNTY
Attorney James B. Indie of Som-
erset and Miss Edna Adams, were
secretly married in Meyersdale
December 27th. The ceremony was
solemnized by the Rev. J. J. Brady.
The bridegroom procured a marriage
license in a neighboring county and in
this way was able to keep the happy
event from the public for nearly two
" months. Attorney Landis is a son of
the late Rufus C. Landis, of Berlin.
His mother, Mrs. Carrie C. Landis,
resides at Berlin. The bride is a
daughter of the late M. J. Adams, who
, was a member of the executive staff
of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad,
Connellsville division.
The funeral of Norman B. Ream, a
native of Ursina, whose sudden death
was noted last week, was held from
St. Geofge’s church, New York, Sat-
urday morning at ten o’clock. Mr.
an estate worth approximately fifty
million dollars.
Samuel S. Hoffman, a well-known
be operated on for an arm that was
broken last October and which has
This is not all
He
Condensed Statement
CITIZENS NATIONAL BANK
OF MEYERSDALE, PA.
At Close of Business December 31st, 1914.
RESOURCES
Loans and Investments.. ........... See, .. $715,878,01
U.S. Bonde...................... rai 77,000.00
Banking House.,............. Gel Savanah vas 29,800.00
Due from Banks and Reserve Agents..... ....... 116.240.56
Cash. ........... Grsaesesinesseadi ina eaah.enal 5201S
Total. ... $992,681.73
LIABILITIES
Capital Stork... .....c.ch vautivennne ee. S 05000.00
Surplug..... .................... free vanranasee. 100,000.00
Udivided Profits... ..... .... sv.....vuuash.. 2303489
Circulation .. ........ srrusrieadieses deasven ae 63,100.00
Deposites ..................cccoec iin 180,055.01
Total. ... $992,089.73
y
ee eed df df off lf ff ae dk
oN
farms in that vicinity and has been
hindered by a lack of water. This
is the second time his cistern has ,
He blames undermining
and as soon as he leaves the hospital
will enter suit against the coal com-
pany. }
Berlin's handsome new school house
has been completed, and the formal
dedication took place Monday, though
the building has been occupied for a
S. G. Braucher of Somerset
had the contract for the construction
of the .building, and his work is en-
tirely satisfactory.
The Lincoln Automobile Company
of Somerset was granted a charter
this week at Harrisburg. The com-
pany is capitalized at $10,000. The
purpose of the corporation is “the
buying, ‘selling, exchanging, renting,
repairing, trading and dealing in auto-
mobiles, supplies and accessories.”
The incorporators are R. L. Richard-
son of Johnstown, Harvey E. Stahl,
J. T. Bowman,.and W. J. Phillips, of
Somerset. The company will conduct
a garage in what formerly was the
Doctor Bittner stable. :
DOCTOR DIXON TALKS
ON EVILS OF WORRY.’
Worry—to choke or strangle says
the dictionary. It is not necessary to
seek for the further definition for that
is truly the physical manifestation of
mental torment. |
Worry strangles our mental powers :
and chokes the bodily functions.
There are innumerable instances in
which physical decline and death are
directly traceable to worry.
It is true that in every one’s life
force of circumstances, bitter expe-
riences and trying problems must be
met, considered and conquered.
matter how vital these may be or how
much real thought is required in
their solution, worry will never aid
and it inevitably handicaps all efforts
to obtain a clear poiont of view and
the establishment of a true perspec-
tive toward life’s happenings.
The ancient philosophers deemed
worry unworthy of men of true men-
tal attainment. Our physical make-up
is so finely adjusted that any dis-
tress of mind reacts upon the bodily
functions. Excessive anger is often
followed by illness and worry with its
accompanying morbid thoughts has
a like influence.
There is a close relation between our
physical and mental selves and a
sound body is a reserve force behind
the mind. When: you are tempted to
worry bestir yourself physically. EXx-
ercise in the open air, a long tramp
or some similar diversion will often-
times prove a sufficient stimulus to
aid materially any mental effort you
may make to cast off the burden.
Another way even more effective
measure is to keep busy at one’s daily
tasks. Occupation if it be of a nature
to require close application is one of
the most effective cures for worry.
AUTO TIRE A LIFE BUOY.
Girl, Hauls
Tying Line to Motoreas,
Skater From Pond.
Ag Miss Elsie Ditson of Paterson,
N. J., was driving past Bowdin’s mill-
pond, in Cedar Grove, in her automo-
bile her attention was attracted by
the cries of William Young of Jackson
Mills, who had broken through the ice
while skating. Young was struggling
frantically to pull himself out of the
water, but at each effort the thin ice
broke beneath his weight.
Miss Ditson tied a piece of rope
about an extra tire which she carried
and tossed the improvised life pre-
server to the man. He got it under
his shoulders. but a new difficulty
arose, for Miss Ditson found that she
him out. She solved
Mn (TIS 4
QCedar G
ove.
No |}
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The last department is a
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All new Subscrib-
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TY ASS COO SAntal
RHEUMATIC
SUFFERERS
GIVEN QUICK RELIEF
Pain leaves almost
Lu..dren Cry
FOR FLETCHER'S
CASTORIA
A ANN AANA A
mr.
i i A LS
as if by magic when
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remedy for Rheuma-
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It goes right to the
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fi Don't delay. Demand
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Baltimore & Ohio
SYSTEM
LOW FARES
OF THE
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California
EXPOSITIONS
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~
a AA ln lS SN)
Don’t forget you can get the great- |
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world, ‘“The National Stockman and
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per year, ‘‘The "Woman’s World,"
and Kimball’s Dairy Farmer, all
h the Commercial, for $1.85
FULL INFORMATION AT BALTIMORE &
OHIO TICKET OFFICES.
3 oo
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