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MAN'S AMBITION
Tie strives to win the Ions, hard race--
To let hi name le known
He longs to stand in tome f.iir place,
Exalted and alone;
Re strive for riches or for fame,
And for the winning w.iits to claim
The honor ai his own.
0
A PERFECT DISAPPEARANCE,-
;--7 f
Dy TALBOT SMITH.
(
J10. HE Ions nnil sensational
trial was o-er, r.nd. In spite
O O of the earnest, wlmle-lieart-
1 J wl attempts of the prison-
"ytOir cr's counsel, limi terminat-
I'd ill .ne on.y possible verdict. All
warn over for Intlir.ip Lyle. Tin?
.ludce. ill a queer, quavering whisper,
bad drawn on tin? fatal headgear of
doom in a manner to suit his peculiar
taste, and spokr n these words which
even tin- most callims cannot hear un
moved, and for the : ext twenty-four
clays Die doomed man was walking the
sorrow-stricken path of the Valley of
the Shadow. From that n we-lnspirlng
moment Wlnthrop I.ylt? was no longer
wholly hiimati. A metamorphosis had
changed the convict Into a helm; whose
Roul was already knocking at the Eter
nal Gate.
The condemned man heard the ver
dict unmoved, save for a tremulous
movement of the lips, wide' the most
self-contained can never wholly hide,
mid pr.ssed down those footworn steps
do many untortut;at"s have trod to the
cell apportione 1 him. Here, by special
permission of the .Indue, lie had tin in
terview with his brother without the
restrict ion.'i f n watching warder.
"1 expected nothing better." said the
prisoner, "and nothing remains for me
now ' but I "eparat!o:i for the end so
close at hand." This as paid in a
loud voice In or ifr that the warder
standi::-.; outride the door, wlii-h was
just ajar, should hear and form a mis
taken conclusion.
When Kusiace I.yle left the prison ho
carried with him, and concealed In an
lutier pocket, a Inter which Winthrup
had written when uie case teemed
.. hopeless, and had managed to slip tin
, Been Into his hand. Not until he was
" at hoim again and behind a locked
fdoor did he venture to read It. It ran
thus:
Before the day of execution corned I
i i shall be far away from this place or
' dead. I want you to do one thitg and
. f promise another. Leave SIO.WD with
. ouf lawyer Koome, to be given to any
one who asks for It, be he beggar,
tramp or gentleman. And promise me
that If I escape no one of my family
shall make the slightest effort to find
"hie or follow me.
Ordinary means of e.scrpo are out of
the question. I shall be shepherded
night and day by two armed warders,
who are rell. ved at Intervals of four
hours. -I know, and you will yourself
see, prison doors are to be opened only
from Uie outside, and were I to suc
ceed In overpowering the guards and
opening the doo", some twelve other
doors and gates would have to be nego
tiated ere I breathed the outside air.
I have oah'tilai 'd t!i periods of duty
and relief of tit" six men told off for
"condemned cell duty," as it Is culled,
and And two ward cx anil Foster,
both young men, will b my guard
, from 10 to 11 a. in. n Sunday next,
'r 'when I shall be at cxi-rcise 1" the prls
J ' on yard. You must get at these men.
not ostensibly, but by ordinary courte
sy. They use The King's Crown, and,
as I know from experience while here,
appreciate a good cigar. Spin a yarn
of bonded cigars to be purchased on
Saturday, or the day after to-morrow,
and you wLsh to shire the delicacies
with them. You need make no secret
of our relationship, (live them a dozen
or so each on Sunday morning as they
.enter the outside gates. Their hours
of duty are from 8 to 1J. I shall
smoke after breakfast, as I nm per
mitted, and as nil will be safe in the
condemned corridor, will persuade
them to Join tic. They will, for the
odor of my undoctnred cheroot will be
an In.sumoiintable lever.
The drug anyl does not take nctlon
for sixty to ninety minutes, accord
ing to the dose. This will bring us to
the bouT of exercise. So far so good.
Now, listen. The foreman of the
works has a sick wife and a screaming
brood. Approach him, offer him a
handsome set-off to pay and pension on
condition that when at work to-morrow
the brickwork of the wall tliev
Vs are repairing may be loiser.ed; this
will be Insutllclent alone, but the lad
der always used In working hours
must be Inadvertently left behind
when leaving for the ulght. You can
guess the rest. The foreman gets the
sack for "gross neglect of duty," and
falls back smiling on my comfortable
check, and I, well, I never mind.
When the news of my flight readies
you, look upon me as dead and burled
lu Newton Churchyard. In fact. It
wont help you to do otherwise.
1
Wlnthrop was in good spirits at the
close of his brother's visit, and kept
himself In the same mood for tbe next
few days, in spite of the trying sceues
of farewell with his friends and rela-
" tlVM.
V Tu Lye family, wealthy and pow
littV rful, was bent on preventing by any
Wit means the disgrace of the scaffold. It
was a great triumph for Justice when
X tlC ,.Aluinul lt.l,..,a . l,u atflll , V.
lawyers came to naught In court and
elsewhere. Even public opinion, won
to sympathy by the uritliunt struggle
which Lyle made for his life, by his
talent, bis spirit, his beauty of face
and manner, his steady and solemn
declarations of innocence, was resisted
and overcome by the ottlters of Jus
Uct. ,
Tba care taken to prevent prisoner
under sentence of death from escapa
or suicide is very thorough, bt It re
eaiads on of the car taken by rail
"y companies to prevent accidents.
AND WOMAN'S,
Within her gentle bosom sh
Conceal a daily prayer
For riches and renown that he
And she may jointly share;
She plans and trie a best le may
To t ike and hold the height, some day,
With Inm beside her there.
-x. E. Kiaer.
Jl
.
'
depends on men for success, and en
gine drivers will drink, signalmen fall
asleep, telegraph clerks miss the right
word and guards fall to swing a warn,
lug lantern.
Everything worked successfully.
Wealth and the rank of Hie convict
achieved wonders, and an escape
which read more III;- a romance of
IMtmas than n chronicle ol Newgate
occupied public attention for the usual
nine days. Every one remember the
stir created by I.yle's disappearance.
The oinelala. mad with :.i,-e and
shame, really ixliaiit .d the means at
their comma tul to find the criminal.
Eltlnlly the case was put Into the able
hands of lietectlve ' ord. one of the
smartest and most vigilant men in the
secret s-rvice.
His efforts came to naught within a
year. Lord held on for six months
longer, studying wi'h Infinite patience
clews, actual and thet vetle, that prom
ised something. Lyle had vanished in
to thin air. Had he dissolved intc ele
mentary gases at the pri.iou gates, lie
could not have left less trace of his
path Into the world. Not one clew
ever led to any result, not even to a
decent "iieory of his escape. Lord con
tinned the pursuit out of pure fascina
tion for a mystery which overtaxed
his powers and tool; the edge off his
natural shrewdness.
After resigning his post, and joining
an orchestra as t;rst vl din for faith In
his abilities ti ially deserted him this
fascination accompanied him, and
proved a great bore to his friends frore.
the endless speculations It led him to
indulge.
On his mantelpiece he kept a photo
graph of Wintbrop Lyle, and the slim,
hard llgitre, the pale, thin high-bred
face, the severe expression and dark
eyes had a prominent place In his
sleeping and waking dreams. In the
end no one took any Interest In his
cherished mystery, save the boy who
played the 'cello in the orchestra.
It was always a gretit relief to Lord
to turn from constant brooding on the
tints of Lyle's picture to the society of
the young musician; for Josef (ianz
was a soft boned, easy young German,
slow In speech and movement, given
to song and laughter, fond of his wife
and 'cello and bnliy; fonder of the Lyle
problem than Lord himself.
When the boarding-house In which
he lived, the day dreams and the world
grew wearisome, the detective went
over to his friend's house and spent a
Sunday evening with Canz. He had
a cosey home, and its owners, its pic
tures, its very furniture, spoke of ease
and comfort.
Josef was fair skinned, fat and Jol
ly, and loved to sit with his baby or
his 'cello at his right hand. His wife
and child were plump and rosy, and
even the gray professor father, with
his habits of study and solemn expres
sion, had a fat and contented air about
him.
Not having been long In the country,
they spoke English with a gentle ac
cent. German pictures hung on the
wail, and fierman colors were every
where. Fran (Janz could not abide
English cooking, and at her table were
ever dressisl the seasoned dishes of
tho Fatherland. When they gang
songs or Indulged in old memories, the
little village near Munich was the
theme. The one promise to baby to
induce him to be good was a visit to
Munich when he had come to bo a
man. Among thpse simple people Lord
might talk his hobby to death and be
listened to with reverence.
' It's so nice to h"ar a clever detec
tive speak by the hour at a great mur
derer and villain." Frau Canz said to
her neighbors. The old professor did
not pay much attention, while his son
Josef was a tireless listener, and had
many speculations ou the plan of es
cape used by Lyle.
"I have a theory," began Josef slow
ly. "What another?" The detective
langhed and the professor glanced Ir
ritably at his son.
"A new one." said Josef, placidly.
"Some time, when I have tltted the
Joints, I will tell you how that Lyle
escaped. He was no ordinary man,
and when he disappeared, it was for
ever. It is an art to disappear well,
and he must have been skilled In the
art. I know its rules, and the princi
ples on which these rules are based.
It Is curious and Interesting, this art."
Loril felt curious about this matter,
knowing that (iauz would make a
clear, forcible statement of his the
ories. For he had studied logic and
rhetoric at Innsbruck, and could put a
case In which he was Interested very
strongly.
"There is such an art," Josef began,
and your man Lyle was skilled In It. It
would be a treat to bea;- him discourse
on it."
''Wouldn't it, now." said Lord, with
scorn. "Especially if, while listening,
one had the reward of cupturlug bltn
in his inside pocket. liut that will
never be."
"Probably not," said Josef, "unless
he gets tired of hiding. You know. I
always took an Interest in the poor
fellow. I seem to know him as well
as you, so orten have you described
his words and ways. He wa a thor
ough Englishman by birtb, training,
appearance, cleverness. Old family,
high spirit and all that; Cambridge
graduate, well dressed good figure,
athletic; brown hair, green eyes, pale,
severe face; quick in movement,
speech and thought Then ha was lu
vsoU.ve. (8a tRUematiCK ajw of
pieasure, but cared nothing for music
or wine or books. And he learned
enough of drugs to poison his wife too
cleverly."
"How could he have been so hard
and cruel?" said Frau Ganz, with a
sigh.
"I don't believe he did It," snld Josef,
softly. "His lawyers, the great pub
lic, his relatives, and many good peo
ple believed him Innocent. Lord says
the case not an awful sifting, and the
more they sifted the less certain some
were of his guilt, while others were
more certain."
"But the art. the art!" cried the Im
patient detective.
"Ah, yes, the art, to be sure. Well,
first, have I described Lyle accurately'
I might say he was Just the opposite
to myself In most tilings.''
"Two young men," answered Lord,
"couldn't be and look, less alike."
.Toef smiled.
"I arrived in this country about the
time ho escaped from jail. I could
read English then, and, I remember
the newspapers wer? full of him. But
until I met you the case did not Inter
est me. Let me show you what the
principle forces a man to do. when il
Is successfully carried out. You think
It means running away to Brazil ot
Persia, lu a wig at:d blue spectacles, a!
they do in a play. No. The man whe
disappears according to this principle
must escape, not only from his pursu
ers, but from his friends, and, above
all, from hlms'lf. He must change
his country, never meet old friends
again, get a new language, a new
trade, a new place In society, a new
set of parents and relatives, a new
past, a new habit of body, a new ap
pearance. He must think, speak, walk,
sleep, eat and drink differently from
in past days; he must change the color
of his hair, skin, eyes; In fact, he
must become another man as really as
If he had changed natures with a par
ticular person."
"L)er gondry Is safe," said the pro
fessor, with a huge laugh, "und so is
der brofession of detective. Who
gould bragtise dose rules; und If dey !
gould, what use would be detectives?"
"It makes fine talk," said Lord. "All
very well If such tilings could be done.
As they can't, your theory isn't worth
a straw. It's impossible." New York
Tribune.
Mother Kteplmiit anil Her i:uly.
A remarkably iut.dligeut elephant,
working a few years ago on a new
bridge In Ceylon, had a young o.ie to
whom she was devoted. It died, and
she became inconsolable.
Formerly the gentlest of creatures,
she grew irritable and even dangerous.
One morning she brok the emtio
which confined her and escaped Into
the forest.
One night about ten days after her
escape, the otllcer who had been In
charge of her went out to lie In wait
for bears at a pond In a jungle at some
distance.
As he and his native attendant were
returning, early in the morning, the
native silently nudged him, and they
saw In the dim, gray light an elephant
with her calf making their way toward
the camp. They both sprang behind
trees, and when the elephants bad
passed the naUve Insisted that the
older one was their old friend, the in
consolable mother.
When they reached the camp they
found that the truant had returned',
and had gone from one person to an
other, touching each with her trunk,
as if exhibiting ber adopted child,
which she had evidently begged, bor
rowed or stolen in her absence.
Her good temper and usual docility
returned at once, and her owner
blessed the good fortune which had en.
ablcd her to procure a baby elephant
Wlllielrnlns Fanner Queen,
The Queen of Holland Is an enthusi
astic farmer. A dairy has been estab
lished In connection with the Itoyal
Castle at Loo, and it Is run on quite
liulsinessllke lines by its owner, large
quantities of butter and mlk being
sold regularly from the dairy, which is
now self-supporting and prolltable. An
other bobby of the young Queen Is
photography, and, like Queen Alex
andra and other distinguished ama
teurs, she is quite an expert wlfh the
camera. A pretty story Is told of the
Queen's fondness for the accomplish
ment. Noticing a peasant women on
one of her drives In picturesque cos
tume, holding a baby in her arms, she
asked permission to take a picture, tc
the great delight of the woman, whe
received a present after the snapshot
had been taken, while the baby got
kiss from the Queen. Westminster Ga
zette, i
Tba Larger Life.
I am quite clear that one of out
worst failure i is at the point where,
having resolved, like ange'-, we drop
back into the old matter-of-fact life
and do Just what we did before, be
cause we have always done It, and be
cause everybody does it, and because
is our fathers and mot'iers did It;
all of which may be the very rea
son why we should not do It.
There Is no station of life, and BO
place of one's home, where. If he
wants to enlarge his life in caring for
people outside of himself, he may not
start ou a career of enlargement which
shall extend definitely. And we shall
find the answer to our question to bs
that the man who enters upon infinite
purposes lives the infinite life. Ho en
larges his life by every experience of
life.
Russia' Fur Trail Decreasing
The wealth of Hussla In furs ia being
rapidly sapped. It Is reported that In
a certain district of the Yenisei govern
ment, where' fifty years ago hunters
annually shot 28,000 sable, 0000 bears,
IM.Ooo foxes, 14.000 blue foxes, 800,000
squirrels, 5000 wolves and 200,000
hares, hardly a sable ran be found to
day. The blame is laid to the wanton
destruction of wild animal In ha
course of the bunting expeditions. No
steps seem to have been taken to put
a stop to this.
A Nliwl Mctapbar.
The following, as a pulpit nixed
metaphor, beat any that you quotes
writes correspondent to the West
minster Gazette. It was beard In a
York church aome years ago, and I can
guarantee Its genuineness: "An open
door Is presented to you, my hreUtreu;
If yU will but embrace It It will afford
xou no abundant jrresCi' '
Agricultural.
About Your Cattle,
What are you raising cattle for? If
for milk and butter and other dairy
products, you want Jerseys, Guernseys
sr Holsteln; If for the beef market,
fou want Short Horns, Tolled Angus
or Hereford. Arrange these uanici to
luit yourself.
Fartlls Ebb.
To decide whether eggs are fertile
or not hold them between the thumb
and forefinger, with one end toward
the thumb and finger, In a horizontal
position, having n strong light In front
of you. The unfertilized eggs will
have a clear appearance, both upper
and lower sides being the same. The
fertilized eggs will have a clear ap
pearanee at the lower side, while the
upper side will exhibit a dark or
cloudy appearance.
Novelties In Vegetable!.
fo not be tempted to abandon the
old reliable varieties of vegetables for
novelties, but first test the novelties
as experiments. Some of them may be
excellent, but all varieties depend for
success upon climate and soil. It Is
never safe to make a complete change
In any kind of crop by substituting a
new for an old. Some so-called novel
ties are old varieties under new names.
The best variety is the one that has
been tested and found suitable for the
farm upon which It Is growu.
Rnrcvssriil Cnmhl nation.
Pevon years ago I built my first com
blned hotbed, eoldframe and winter
storage pit. It Is the only successful
combination I know for such uses.
When converted into a storage pit. the
sash is replaced by a door in the end.
makes access possible without disturb
lng any part of covering.
It may be from three to five feet
high at outside, or eaves. Excavation
Is made to bring the top ot outer post
about twelve Inches nbove ground lev
el. Make bottom two or thre Inches
lower In centre for drain, with tw
Inch tile. Use best hardwood posts, not
less than five by six inches, long
rijAX OF HOTBED.
enough to be set below bed level two
and a half or three feet. It is to be
permanent, and only sound, long last
lug timber should be used for walls,
and even these should bo heavily
painted or covered with pitch. Use
boards or plank outside as well as in
side of line of posts, providing dead nir
space, and protecting inside wall. All,
except side walls. Is of portable con
struction to allow taking down for
driving or backing team In while fill
ing or removing dirt, manure or stored
crops. Use a four by four inch ridge
pole, as shown at A, to support two
by four inch rafters, held together by
heavy bent wire at B. I'laee two by
four inch centre uprights every six
feet, resting on fiat stone or plank.
Nail one by one Inch strip In the cen
tre of each rafter for a sash guide. To
prevent wind penetrating or lifting
sash use ridge board on top, and a hook
and eye at bottom of each sush, Iteg.
Stubbs, in Farm and Homo.
Iled Kaapberry Culture.
It costs more to grow red rasp
berries than it does to grow black
raspberries. Bed raspberries should
sell for nearly twice the price of the
black. If the market will not pay
higher prices for the red varieties
than for the black It will not pay to
grow the red raspberry, but lu most
localities red raspberries are in active
demand at high prices. I advise
growers of small fruits to have at
least a moderate sized plantation of
red raspberries. They are not diffi
cult to grow, and are an attractive
fruit to offer In connection with other
small fruits you are selling. Bed
raspberries should be planted in rows
six feet apart, with the plants three
feet apart in the row. These plants
can be cultivated both ways for a
time. When properly cultivated they
.will bear fruit a long time, much longer
in fact than will the black raspberry.
CuUibert, London, Shaffer and Col
umbian are prominent red raspberries.
Growing of Corn.
One of the best ways of killing the
weeds In the corn field is to destroy
them before the corn comes up, and
.we make It a practice to run the weed
er lightly over the seeded ground if
there Is the slightest promise that the
soil Is likely to be weedy. Another
round of the weeder Just before the
corn shows through will take out a
lot of the weeds and not Injure the
corn In the least but leave less work
for the cultivator to do In Its first
rounds, which Is as soon as the rows
can be fairly defined. It Is true, this
first and subsequent cultivating would
kill off the weeds, but not so certainly
as by the plan Indicated. If the soil
Is fairly rich and( the seed bed well
prepared for a good variety, this plan
of early and. constant cultivation, as
long as the corn can be worked, will
give one crop which will amply repay
for the labor Involved. While corn Is
grown by nearly all farmers, there are
a few little points like the above wblcb,
if put Iq operation, yield such results
as to upset any ideas that we know all
there is to know about raising corn.
As ta Wheal Growing.
There seems to be a general opinion
that wheat production has greatly fall
an off In sections located outside the
great wheat belts, and while this is so
In soma . States, and particularly so
iwlth some Individuals, statistics show
that the. falling, nff u. not so great
I : ;'
l 1
j K ii-s II I
: ; I " 1
i
Is generally supposed. On the othet
Land there are Individual farmers whe
are good wheat raisers who have giver
up their farms almost entirely to othei
crops, limply because they do not fee.'
able to compete with the great wheal
sections of the West.
It Is doubtful if this Is good policy,
for while the farm may frequently bt
used to better advantage, there is al
ways a market In any section for a
crop of good wheat, and always us
for a small crop on the farm. Then,
too, wheat Is one of the best crops tc
nse In a rotation, having a value to
the soil in this respect so great that It
would pay to grow It even If the sale
was comparatively limited. If it could
not be sold t a fair price It has con
siderable feeding value, particularly
where poultry Is kept. Do not cut oul
the wheat entirely until you have in
vestlgated Its value on your farra.
Indlanapolls News.
Injury to Fruit Tree by Mire.
The Horticultural Section of thp
Iowa Experiment Station Is In receipt
of numerous reports from various sec
Hons of the State conveying the Infor
mation that during the period last
winter In which the ground was cov
ered with snow, many fruit trees were
badly girdled by field mice. Such trees,
If left unattended, are very likely tc
die. The majority of them, however.
may be saved by covering the Injured
portion with earth. The growing lay
er which lies Just beneath the bark
will form a now layer of bark if It is
kept moist by banking up with earth
for two or three inches above the glr
died portion. The earth should be firm
ly tamped about the stem and pains
taken to see that U is not separatcJ
by the tree swaying in the wind.
Another effective method of treat
ment, which is more trouble, but sur
er, perhaps, is to wrap the wound with
broad strips of cloth coated with graft
lug wax. The wax Is made by boiling
together four parts resin, two parts
beeswax, one part tallow.
To make this work effective, the
wound should not be allowed to be
come dried out, and no time should be
lost in covering the girdled portion. Id
cases where the Injury has not been
too severe, this treatment may also
prove effective in saving trees injured
by rabbits. Indiana Farmer."
Hog Cholera A Preventive.
Panic time ago I heard a friend won
ler if there was such a thing as a
specific for hog cholera. Immediately
there came to me a vision from long
ago, of two gentlemen sitting on the
broad veranda of a Southern farm
house, one, my uncle, with whom I
lived, the other a planter from Missis
sippi. The foreman of the plantation
had just reported the death of ten
more fat hogj from cholera, and my
uncle had remarked to his visitor that
he had already lost more than fifty
hogs from that disease, and added that
the time would soon come when hog
raising would be a lost industry In the
South because of It. The visitor re
garded him attentively for a minute
and then said slowly and Impressive
ly, "There is not the slightest need ot
hogs dying c cholera. While I know
of no cure for the disease, I do know
a certain preventive, which I have
used on my plantation for years, and
urged upon iny neighbors, but its very
simplicity prevents its general adop
tion." "What Is it?" asked my uncle,
eagerly. "Its simplicity will not de
ter me from Its use, I assure you."
It is simply tar," replied the visitor.
I have a quantity of pine tar run,
and three times a week I have each
ear of corn given them liberally
smeared with It. They root It about
a little at first, but they will finally
eat it, and I have never had a case of
cholera since I began to use It." From
that time it was used on my uncle's
plantation, with the best result. Miss
M. E. Lowman, in The Epltomlst.
Hobs For Meat.
For hogs we prefer the Poland-Chi
nas. . bile they do not produce as
targe litters as some other breeds,
they are large hogs and ftf a digtiltied
appearance. For meat, feed boue and
muscle producing food until about six
months old and give them a steady
shove thea and fatten on corn and
sometimes mush. For meat, we often
kill some of the old sows. These we
fatten In the same manner. Do not
feed your sow for at least twelve hours
before killing; longer Is better. When
ready to kill, go quietly to the pen
with rifie iu hand und shoot the ani
mal. To knock It In the head is a
brutal method and Is fast being done
away with. Bleed It quickly. Take
It to your barrel or vat and place It
In the same. ' Pour the water, which
must be boiling hot, over the hog and
scald well. Rake away the hair and
then scrape. When this Is done, hang
a hanoib fob Boas.
the hog on a banger like the one In the
cut. Place the hog on the book B and
then lift it up on the lever A. Place
the legs against the fence or other sta.
tlonary object. Take out the entrails,
etc., and wash oft by dashing water
over it After it has cooled cut it up
and place in the storeroom to cool un
til the next day. Two days are better.
Then apply salt and lot it stand far
another day or two. Then pot It down
In salt in barrels or boxes. When It
has thoroughly taken the salt, take It
up and smoke it either with hickory
chips or the liquid preparation. We
have tried both, and they are both sat
isfactory. Use whichever you wish.
The condensed smoke Is. I think, per
fectly harmless. Mlisourl Correspond.
ft QhjA ."Vi-maii 1 1 -'
New York Clty.-rretty house Jack -
ets are among the comforts of life that
no woman should be without. This one
i quue novel, ltiasmucu as it includes
BOV8K JACKKl'.
garments of the sort are appropriate
for Immediate wear, challle, r.lbatross
and the like for cooler weather. The
shaped back gives admirable lines nnd
a yoke collar that extends well over
the shoulders, and Is both simple and
attractive. The original, from which
the drawing was made, is of white ba
tiste, ring-dotted ' with blue and
trimmed with bands of embroidery,
collar and cuffs being of white, but all
the pretty washable fabrics used for
also nn effect of neatness, while the
A Late Design
'.oose fronts are both graceful and com
tortable. When liked the box pleats
:an be omitted und gathers used in
their stead.
The Jacket consists of the fronts,
loined to a round yoke, backs and side
Itacks with full sleeves. The yoke-collar
Is separate and arranged over the
wbolo and there is a choice allowed be
tween a turn-over and n standing col
lar. At the wrists are shaped cuffs
that harmonize with the yoke-collar
ind are exceedingly effective.
The quantity of material required for
the medium tlxo is four .and tliree
luarter yards twenty-seven Inches
wide, four and three-quarter yards
3fty-two Inches wide or two and flve
?lgliMi yards forty-four Inches wide,
with four yards of binding to trim as
Illustrated.
The f.oos Mantle Coat.
V's have adjured it for a long time,
but we have come back to It now, a
"slip on" which Is quickly slipped off.
The fashionable mantles are chiefly
made In I'ght fawu soft cloths, smooth
faced cr fancy woven, and those very
light tones are in the majority; there
are a great many cream. The gray
and the black are not quite so fash
ionable, but are very much worn, es
pecially at this seasou. The buttons
upon these coats are often a marked
feature; Indeed, the jeweled buttons
and the stone buttons of by no means
so costly maturlal but effective, are
having an Immense following. The
blister pearl, the amazonlte, the matrix
opal, and the matrix turquoise all
serve as a ground for the Introduction
of what appear to be rubles, sap
phires and diamouds. Home buttons
are cameos and some are wrought In
metal, carrying out the military ele
ment now so necessary au adjunct to
success.
bbs Green Silk and Voile.
Sage green silk and very thin voile
were combined In' a graceful gown.
The skirt was laid In .very tiny pleats
sad was a triple affair. The first skirt
ended In a deep hem like a tuck, un
der which was a band of silk shirred
very closely. A second pleating and
band of shirred silk and a deep tukad
1 flounce finished the, skirt. The bodice
was pleated and had a collar and stols
: of heavy white lace. The silk-shirred
. bands appeared on the elaborate
sleeves, which had cuff bands of the
lace. High silk girdle.
About Crush Units.
Many who started in to wear the
crush leather Indts have ruined one
or two already by drawing them too
tight. You cannot draw the crush
belt up as you would a plain belt.
Toqiia Decorutlon.
Clusters of red roues ure the fashion
able decorations for white lace and
chiffon toques.
Faney Sleeve.
Fancy sleeves make features of tbr
season too apparent and far too charm,
lng to lie overlooked. The three shown
are all graceful, all smart, yet all sim
ple withal and can be utilized both fot
the new garments and for those of last
season, which must be made up to
date. The model to the left. In elbow
length, is made of white chiffon louls
Ine over cream net and Is trimmed with
lace appllipie. Its lines are admir
able, and it suits all the soft fashion
able materials. The sleeve In the cen
tre is full length, with cuff and frills
of cream lace, sleeve and under-sleeve
of white mercerized batiste, and the
sleeve to the right is shown In simple
sheer lawn with the frill of net top
lace falling In becoming folds, but
combinations of many sorts can be
made.
The sleeves are all made over fitted
foundations on which the full portions
are arranged and which serve to keep
the puffs in place. In the case of the
sleeve to the left the under puff Is cut
off several indies below the upper
by May Manton.
edge and the outer sleeve Is gathered.
The full length sleeve Includes a deep
cuff, faced' onto the lining, under
sleeve and outer sleeve exactly like
those already described, except that
the latter is tucked, and is finished
with double frills. The third and last
sleeve Is a simple drooping puff that is
shirred to fit the upper arm snugly,
ami Is finished with a single shaped
frills
Tlie quantity of material required for
the medium size Is for elbow sleeves
one nnd seven-eighth yards twenty-one
inches wide, one and one-elirhth vnet.
twenty-seven Inches wide or five-eighth
yarus rorry iour incnes wide, with one
yard eighteen or one-half yard forty
inches wide for under-sleeves and two
and a half yards of applique; for full
length sleeves three and nve-elgbtli
yards twenty-one. two and a hi
yards twenty-seven or one and three-
quarter yarus rorty-rour inches wide
with one-half yard of all-over lace!
four yards of lace for frills and two
and a half yards of applique; for el
bow sleeves with frills two and a quar
ter yards twenty-one, one and seven-
VAIfQT SLIIVI4
eighth yards, twenty-seven or one and
three-eighth yards forty-four iocbea
wide, with two yards ot lace to make
as illustrated.