TALE OF
?np!ron'i Tennie Moddl
Studied hygienic twaddle.
Till flic rot it in her noddle
Tiiat ahe rmildn't live on food
And he ucd to fit mul ponder
n tho happy Over-Yonder
Where the hnt angelic winder,
And on audi tiling ahe would brood
Nol'ning not by art dieted
Mix Sophronia molested.
Anil xlre lot herself interned
With the rernaiiiia f.id.
Till the little wit rrcntrd
In her sic ill I evaporated.
Ami ber common one wax stated
To go slumping to the bail.
Well, this Inle mul liave an ending,
And it ia no mo pretendm
Tliat the end wo are intending
la a triumph, for it ain't;
Miss Sophronm Jennie Muddle,
Willi her hygienic twaddle,
-iirougli eternity will toddle
As a prodigestcd taint.
I' iltimore News.
o o
o o
Ihe
Man of Resources
By FRANKLIN WELLES CALKINS
-UOJaV N the suiniiipr of lSii","
S an )t said Kelly, the post trailer,
s X H,a,,,pt' ut i iake a
) consignment of goods to
WOW the Black Hills country,
where most of the blanket
Indians were supposed to lie gathered.
"I set out about the middle of Au
gust with a string of puck horses and
two men Eat Lnmouro, my driver,
BUil Little Chief, to act as guide and
li.t nreter to the Chcyennes anil Gros
Ventres. I eo.uld then apeak Sioux
very well, but Little Chief could talk
In seven wholly different Indian
tongues; without him such an expedi
tion could hardly have beeu under
takers. "We Jogged across lo the Little Mis
souri, and followed that stream nearly
to its head without meeting Indians.
Then wo crossed over to the l'.elle
PVorche, nnd followed that past the
pine hills. There were no buffaloes ex
cept stragglers, stray bunches of old
bulls Ulat had been left behind in the
tnnn-h of south-going herds.
"When we had reached n creel; called
Medicine Dance, I.illle Chief tin
noiiiiCi'il that the Ognl!uhs and their
Bllics had all none south after the buf
falo, lie sahl the Ogalialas, or a good
part of them, had wintered on this
Tei k the year before, nnd had raised
t crop of vegetables at their village
during the summer. They had gone,
lud if they had Intended to return
would not have moved their village nnd
taken all their horses out of the coun
try. "It was too lute In the season to turn
north to the lilnckfoot country, so
there was i.othing we could do but
craze our stock and hunt and rest for a
time.
"Then one morning a party of In
dian appeared. There were fifteen or
twenty of them, a wild lot of fellows
nx. iinted on swift horses, who circled
about our ramp, riding like the wind.
HE 1 then shook their blankets- at us
In token that thv wanted to talk.
"Little Chief made signs to tln-m to
rome on. and they approached cau
tiously. They proved to be mountain
Crows nnd half of thrm had never
seen a white man before.
"They had nothing to trade. They
were all armeii with bows and arrows,
and the only sign of civilized life lii
their outfitting was a few old woolen
blankets.
"My Interpreter was acquainted with
the river Crows of the Yellowstone,
nnd after thtr curiosity was a little
satisfied, he talked with these fellows
In their tongue, lie could get but
litt! out of them, but they pronil.-ed
fo retiu-n b their buffalo camp and
bring In some peltries In a day or two.
"When we had seen the last of them.
I was quite ready to pack up nnd pull
out for the Missouri, for I knew that
our visitors belonged to the wildest
tribe then In all the Northwest, and
that the Sioux regarded them as the
most expert and inveterate thieves in
existence.
"However, when I proposed that we
f'-t out of the country. Little Chief
counseled delay. He said that we
might be sure these wild Crows were
watching ns keenly, and that If we
fhonld display any signs of fear or
in. easiness they would the sooner at
tack US. Si I listened to his Indian
Wisdom, whether for the best or not
I've never been able to guess.
"For two or three days we kept an
vc out for Ihe Crows and closely
lc rded our stock at night. Then, see
ii.g no further siirn of our visitors, we
concluded that they had returned to
their villages, which must have been
two or three hundred miles distant. 1
' We had packed all our ware and
r.w skins." with the Intention to pull
.ut at sunrise In the morning. .Tost
N-foro daybreak the Crows came. Hat
was supposed to i,e night herding, but
he was probably asleep on the prairie
w hen the drums nnd yells sounded.
The rascal slipped up on us quietly,
Iiavliig shod their ponies with buffalo
moccasins, fur side out,, and they were
right on top of lis when they drummed
us out of blankets. Wo Jumped to our
feet and worked our Spencer repeaters
with all posslblo speed, while a yell
ing mob rode over nnd round us.
"Owing to the darkness, we came off
without a scratch: but when the stam
pede una rolled out of harm way we
tood there, three men on foot, with a
stock of trader's goods on hand, five
hundred miles from the Missouri. And
werse still, when daylight came, wo
foutuJ ourselves surrounded by a war
Iiriy oi uiiriy nve or tony crows.
"Tha rascals were lined up on the
prairie on two siues, aim when we
stood up on the creek bank, they yelled
. all manner of threats at us. There was
bo doubt of their Intentions. They were
utter our goods and guns, and incl
dentally our scalps. I had brought
four Hpeneer rifles for myself and men,
and the Crows were oru.ed only with
tows and arrows and a fnr old tuuz
aie-ioauina; guns.
"Wt beta little council of war, and
A MARTYR.
rhe nte lijy and wheat and liar,
She rhewril aonp-mita unull nnd snarl,
With a teuk she ne'er would parlev,
Nor with Ko'.id st ufj I ke that;
But ahe stuck with hum persistence
To her prediget cxiiterce,
And she fought with lii in re!at mo-
All temptation to get Ut.
So in course of time ahe ureir t'
l!e a part ot what she's . hew to
Jteady Onts he ate at J.OJ
Ami Asciitie bran ut ;
At jnat 5 alie'd eat her ilinnf.
Of Dust-Corn (that wm a winner!)!
As ahe kept on growing thinner
S'e asepticized the in rL
e
o o
tlnally decided to make some, bull-boals
for our goods and take up our inarch
as quickly as possible down the creek.
There hud been rains on the moun
tains, and there was water enough in
the Medicine Dance to float the wide
bottomed skin tubs of the Sioux.
"While I vatched the Crows Little
Chief and Rat fell to work cutting wil
lows and making frames for the boats.
As they had some half tanned bull
pelts nnd plenty of thongs, there was
no liltllculty in building tiie craft. In
mi hour they had their lirst bull-bout
loaded.
"I'y mid-afternoon we had our sup
plies allo.it-live boats lightly loaded
and tied together. Then we took up
our march. Hat cordelling the bouts,
and Little Chief and I walking on
either bank of the creek. There was
bat little timber along this streutn
only patches o," willows. There was no
covert th.it we couldn't have driven the
Crows out of in a few minutes, sa we
did not fear an ambush.
"We believed thai', nt least until help
Came, they would attack us only under
cover of night, anil so we pushed
ahead as last as Hat could pull the
boats. When braver diiuis lay across
the channel, cither Little Chief or my
self would help lift the tubs over. Our
progress was dis.-omugiiigly slow. The
Crows followed us leisurely, quite like
an escort of cavalry.
"At night we camped where the
banks of the creek were bare of vege
tation, but offered pits where we could
command the level Hats on both sides,
"A little after midnight we were at
tacked. The Crows came with n rush,
and for a moment I thought we were
done for; but our sharp tire and good
cover discouraged them, and they clat
tered away. Our shots knocked over
two ponies, but if any of their men
were hit at this time they succeeded In
concealing tiie fact.
"In the morning we took up our
march again, with the Crows follow
ing like two flocks of buzzards.
"Toward noon they rode on abend,
nnd about three-fourths of them dis
mounted nnd took possession of the
creek channel. Hut we had plenty of
ammunition, and we bombarded every
turn of the banks and every bit of wil
low or timber cover, and so drove
them out. We wounded one Indian In
ibis light.
''That night thet'rowseatupedas near
to us as they dared, and danced nnd
pounded their tom-toms ail night. They
hoped to keep us awake and wear us
out, I suppose. Hut we took turns on
guard, and slept just the same.
"The next day we bud two sharp
skirmishes in the creek channel, nnd
In the last we disabled three Crows.
This tight would have encouraged us
greatly, but immediately afterward the
liostiles sent a runner to the west.
"Hat and th. liitetpre'.er now thought
that our only ciianc- of escape was
to crawl away from oar camp in the
iilvhi, each man for himself, and lind
hill cover.
"I knew my help, rs counseled wisely,
but I hung out for another day or two
of bull-boating, and they agreed to stay
with me. I think Little Chief was
persuaded by the prospect of knocking
over more Crows with hi rifle, which
I now gave hi in iu u present. lie was
a keen lighter and a brave man.
"That afternoon our progress was
very slow and cautious, lor timber
had thickened along tiie stream, and
we had to feel our way through the
groves, promptly shooting at every
flutter of a leaf that could excite sus
picion. "Toward lily'it we passed an aban
med village site, where wild pump
kins were growing. Some were ripe
mill of great size, and Hat put two
or three of them into bis bull-boat, to
make a change froji our meat diet.
That night we camped within n
shelter of natural rllle-pits, made by a
short curve just below a short curve
of the creek Just below- a erovo of
young ash. We kept close to this tim
ber, so that we could take to it quickly
if attacked by the Crows, and u deep,
dry ditch protected our position per
fectly from u horseback rush out of
(hit woods.
"We had one of tin; pumpkins for
supper, and while Hut was cutting It
up an idea ciiuie into iny head. Whe.i
we hud untshed the meal It was dark,
nnd I asked Little Chief to find the
Crow rump for inu.
"Whllo he was gone I made n Jack-o'-liinterii
of the shell of the biggest
pumpkin. Then I shaved the end of
ii dry null pole to a broom head, and
tilled the splint with elk tullow melted
by a fire brum). I put tho smooth end
of my polo through the top of my
Jack-o'lautcrii and through a hole In
the bottom till I could fusten it with
tbo shavings torch Inside. I then tied
a crossplcce to represent outspread
or mi, nnd was ready for my trial.
"Hat watched my work curiously,
and though I said nothing, he under-
i ktood iny purpose.
Mood my purpose.
" 'Uuu,' lit mid, dually, "ojt I bit
seen one those not lak these one
Just one leelle head. I think these
weel scare those wll' lngln some eef
J otl geet close 'notlgh.'
'When Little Chief came In he said
Iho Crow camp was nbout n gunshot
above the grove, nnd Unit there were
two scouts on horseback on the prairie
below us, nnd how ninny more'oii the
wntch he could not say. When I
showed him iny Jack-o'-lantern, lie
looked nt It long and earnestly, evi
dently regarding It as n fetish of some
kind. 'Huh:' he said. 'My brother has
made n medicine!'
"I then told him and Hat to stay by
the goods at all hazards, took my gnu,
the Jtick-o'-Ia litem and two blankets,
nnd left them. I went directly to the
month of the dry ditch. This was
fifteen or twenty feet deep and ran into
the creek parallel with a curve or loop
on which the Crows were camped.
"I felt my way cautiously up this un
til I could actually hear the Crows
talking at their ciynp, and nlso- the
sound of ponies crazing close at linml.
So fur I had found my path clear. It
was neck or nothing with ine now.
"I hung two blankets on the arms,
nnd lighted the torch of my pumpkin
head, (irasplng the pole so ns to draw
the blankets nbout my face, yet leav
ing the eyes uncovered. I scrambled
up n steep bank of the ditch. Before
my feet touched the level I heard
picketed ponies running the length of
their ropes nnd snorting with friuht.
Some of them pulled their pins and
scampered oft', and then yells from tho
Indians' camp and a wild rout of con
fusion followed.
"With my grinning fire-face turned
upon them, with flame and smoke for
a scalp-lock, I inire down ou the rump,
walking steadily, as if intending to eat
up everything iu the way.
"The Crows' camp was cleared al
most as quickly as If a cyclone had
passed over It. In every direction I
saw the Indians run for their horses,
and when they got to them they simply
took themselves out of that country a
If a cavulry troop were after them.
"The next morning we picked up
lilti" ponies which they had left behind.
Six of these were our own, and so we
hud no trouhl" In getting buck to the
Missouri with our freight." Youth's
Companion.
Tiie Flint Hypodermic
"The subject of the tlrst use of the
hypodermic syringe was discussed at
the last meeting of the army surgeon
In New Orleans last spring," suid Ir.
It. L. Jackson, "and one surgeon stated
that the first time it was used, he
thought, was in the Army of the Ten
nessee. While in the Tennessee Army
I wrote to a friend In Augusta, .1. V,
K. Wallace, to try to get me a hypo
dermic syringe and send it to me. I
never had seen one, but thought from
what I had heard about It that It would
be very useful iu relieving the wound
ed soldiers of pain.
"My friend was fortunate enough to
secure one from a physician, and sent
it to me while I was ou duty ut the hos
pital at Kinggold, Gu. I exhibited It to
my friends the surgeons there, eigh
teen in number but none of them had
ever seen one. At that time I was
treating u very severe case of dysen
tery, the patient being a chaplain froiu
Texas und one of General Bragg's most
reliable scouts. One of the surgeons
suggested that we try the hypodermic
syringe on the patient, which was done
by inserting a quarter of a grain ot
morphine in the back. It is possible
that Die army surgeon ut the New Or
leans convention who referred to the
lirst use of the syringe in the Tennes
see Army wus oue of the eighteen I
have referred to." Chattanooga Times.
l'ltklnjr Cottuu,
Heaping the wheat n handful at a
time would be ou a par with the pres
ent method of gathering our immense
cotton crops,
l)ld the reader ever think what it
means to pick out one of our ten mil
lion bale crops of cotton V Did you evei
stop to think that ut leust fifteen billion
pounds of raw cotton must be picked
from the bulls by hand? That i's an
almost Incalculable amount, yet that U
what the crop means, and what the
manual labor Is that gets It out a lock
at u time. The limits of our cotton
crop are to a great extent llxed by the
ability to get it out and ready for
the market not only to get It ready
In time, but to get us much of It out
as possible during good weather before
the cold and wet of winter injure the
staple and Interfere with the Work of
picking It out.
Hut we are persuaded that a success
ful machine would not prove uu un
mixed blessing for this section or for
the farmers generally. Montgomery
(Alu.) Advertiser.
The Climate of Manchuria.
The climate of Manchuria muy be re
garded us good; the heat of the sum
mer Is quite bearable, and the bright,
crisp weather throughout tho long win
ter is most healthy and agreeable, pro
vlded the north wind is not blowing.
In winter, at midday, the sun shining
through uu exquisitely clear atmos
phere is so warm that moderately thick
clothing, with the ears covered, is all
oue requires, but In the early morning,
or ufter sunset, and abovo all, when a
northerly wind Is blowing, furs ure a
necessity. Spring and uutumn are
both short. In the south plowing be
gins early iu April, and by the end of
June or beginning of July the wheat
harvest Is complete. July and August
are tho hottest and wettest mouths,
but in a country extending through
fifteen degrees of lutltude there are
considerable variations In temperature
throughout the country, the rigor ot
the climate increasing as the north is
approached. From a Lecture by a
Former British Military Attache la
Chluu.
The Cry of Ihe Clarsjy.
The service held at St. Haul's Cathe
dral iu connection with the Queen Vic
toria Clergy Fund drew attention to
the conditions under which thousands
of clergymen do their work. Within
the last ten years over 100 clergymen
of the Church of England have been
admitted to the workhouse and pau
per lunatic asylums la England and
Walei, More thun half of the vicar
and rector are living on income not
one of which exceed 3 10s. a week,
and 1341 of them would gladly ex
change their revenue fo; a weekly it.
Loudon l'er,
TAli.OR.MAOE CIRL ON WANE.
DreamiiBlcera Endeavoring to Kalnlillah
Mute or Frllia and Furbelows.
Is the day of the tailor made glii on
the waim? Eo many of the dressmak
er WOUld lintf lis In. I!.. eo till ntnl
that in every detail of dress the woman
who wishes to be correctly gowned
shall the Intensely feminine note, be
Hounded and the severe "mannish" 'pf.
feet, once thought the smartest, be
uone nwny with.
The severely plain shirt waist Is cer
tainly not as smart as the elaborately
fashioned and embroidered one of
laces, line batiste or muslin, silk, satin,
or crepe de Chine. The so-called tailor
made walking costume is this year in
the minority, while even the most
lotiL'h nnd ready costume Is either
trimmed or made lu some distinctly
feminine way, instead of being on the
same line ns men's clothes.
L'ven tho street skirts nre now made
with Hating flounce or pleated flounce
Willi side pleats and box pleats much
more often than iu the once popular
plain gored pattern. Coats and Jackets
ure rarely now finished only with
simple satin or silk racings but are
more or less elaborate ns regards the
trimmings,
But ou the other hand, while the
fashion still holds sway 'with outdoor
sports and country life, the "tailor
Hindu" styles can never be out of fash.
Ion. "Short plain gored skirts" of good,
sensible fabrics that will stand any
amount of liiird wear or bad weather;
mixed cheviots, tweeds and rough
serges will be made on the old fash
ioned practical lines and be it also
known that there are some exceedingly
smart designs In shirt waists which are
very plain and severe of linen with
tucked or pleated fronts and high linen
collars; these are expensive, for they
nre a fud of the moment, and like the
plain rough costumes must be most
eurefully cut and fitted.
There Is somethingchnrmliigly dainty
Biid feminine about the more elaborate
separate waists of this season. Those
of the embroidered muslins with Just a
little fulness nt the shoulder or directly
in i rout una then with n band of the
innteiinl with narrow lace at either
side are dainty and becoming, easily
made und suitable with uny skirt anil
coat.
The accordion pleated chiffon, chiffon,
ette, thin silk or crepe de Chine waists
are churmlng also, even if not espe
cially novel. While the same materials
made with folded surnllce effect m-o
very smart now under the short Jackets
nine are so popular this spring, and
which are so made that the fronts can
be worn open or turned back if de
elred. Fancy lace collars and ties are more
fashionable than the plain or embrold
orcd linen nnd lu everything it is no
ticed that soft bows instead of hard,
uncompromising tics are preferred.
Knt Before IMlllua- Out.
A thorough society woman, one who
understands herself, will tuke some
thing before going to a dinner party.
It may be Just u cup of hot tea, per
haps a stimulant In the way of n cup of
black coffee; or, better than all, a cup
of hot milk and a biscuit. This braces
up the nerves, stays the stomach and
keep the body well nourished until it
Is time for dinner.
The woman who sets out for a formal
dinner party without eating anything
before she goes runs the risk of faint
ness mid dullness before the dinner
hour. Sho is certainly much less alert
than the one who takes a bite before
starting out.
The most snccfssful beauties arc
those who do not cut a great deal nt a
dinner party. They take a bite of this
Mid n taste of thut, but nothing more.
They do not pretend to do more than
laste the dishes, and they are rewarded
for their abstemiousness by the bril
Hunt complexion, the cleur eyes and the
sharp wits of the womau who Is at
peace with her digestion.
Great beauties -eat very little, and
hat they do eat Is of the'slmples't and
most nourishing kind. While ' thev
never refuse delicacies, they do not cut
heartily of them, reserving the appetite
for the biiipk-r and more nourishing
viands.
i 'irr.-
Home Go win. " " "
Now t'iSt good practical common
sense has taught women the economy"
f haviny n different style of dress
for the honsorrom what Is worn in the
!rect, mare and more attention Is paid
o the house gowns ull the time, nnd
Liero is, consequently, a much larger
choice possible In design, material and
rolr. A street gown lasts twice as
long when it Is reserved solely for
street wear, and tho change to n "own
of llghtei texture for the house is'rest
ful and beneUelal to gown and wearer
alike. Veiling, cashmere, crepe de
chine, soft silk and satin, nre nil en
rolled upon tho list of inateriuls for
house weur, while all colors may be
choseu from. For the moment tho
fashion Is In favor of more vivid colors
than last yeur. nnd there ore some
greens, blues, cerise and browns that
are almost crudo in effect and require
considerable toning down to be alto
gether satisfactory. A light brown soft
silk trimmed with embroidered chiffon
In tho samo color and with an apple
green satin bodice would be too glaring
were it not for the yellowish lace Jabot
and ruffles iu the sleeves, while a
bright bluo crepe de chine would b
imposslblo were it not for row of blue
velve ribbon a shado lighter In tone,
and tho white chiffon and lace under
alcoves and full front.-IIarper'Batar.
Coimnaml Mure Attention,
"There I uo use In wen's denying
that a young and pretty woman com
inand more attention and respect In
public than an older and less pretty
one." Tho speaker was a woman her
elf. She smiled remlniscently aud
continued: "When I was a young girl
I wus also a pretty oue aud I never
had to stand up iu a street cur. A
jw went ou, however, I noticed tfcat
the occasions on which I was not
offered n seat grew more and more
numerous, nnd when I consulted my
glass the puzzle was answered by the
mirror. Thereafter I always, on enter,
lug n crowded car. kept down my veil
For some time that served excellently,
There was a brief renewal of the
proffers of seats. But now well, now
I find that even the veil is ceasing to
suffice." Philadelphia Tress.
Barbaric Jewelry,
A modem fondness for barbaric Jew
elry is evinced by the dlspluy in the
shop windows. The newest ring!
shown are called "Oriental banquet
rings," and they nre Immense in size.
They are made of Itomnn gold, and the
bund itself is slender, but the mounting
for the setting is nbout the size of a
hickory nut.
One of these rings has n mounting
In the shape of a cross, about nn Inch
long. This Is set with precious stones
of all sorts, tho emerald and ruby be
ing prominent. Another one is In the
shape of n princess ring, nnd Is studded
with amethysts and pearls.
Ihe Japanese signet lings shown
are larger than ours, nnd they nre sel
to order with the birthstone If desired.
They nre certainly less conspicuous
thun the Oriental banquet lings.
Women and the Theatre,
Avowedly women arc both directly
nnd Indirectly the best friends of the
theatrical manager. .It he can please
the feminine portion of his audiences
he Is tolerably sure of success, fot
w hen a woman likes n play she induces
her men folks to go to It. This being
so, ought not women to be specially
considered in all places ot entertain
ment.' But it is precisely on the op
poslte lilies that the manager com
monly proceeds. Men nre encouraged
to push nnd squeeze past and disturb
and inconvenience ladles between the
acts because smoking rooms nre pro
vided iu most theatres; women, on the
other hand, are expostulated with and
denounced If they wear huts at a uiut.
inee. London World.
I'nrllneliara a Pnnnlar Vnlii-lf.
No fashionable womnn's wardrobe
will be complete this season without a
shirt waist suit of biirliiighaui. Tho
nnme of this material suggests nn Eng
lish manufacture, but it Is made in this
country. Burlingham Is a heavy, fleecy
pongee, closely resembling zlbiline.
save that burlingham Is all silk. It
has sprung Into immediate favor. Less
than a week ago the first package?
were opened, and now there is such a
scramble in the leading shops for
buiilnghaui that it is impossible to
meet the demand. The fabric comes
in white, black, blue and light brown.
A shirt waist suit or a tailor suit of
white bmilnghum trimmed with heavy
Jillk or linen Ciuny inserting would on
highly effective.
Jfew Veil of a CJIrla College,
The girls of Hardin College, in Mex
ico, Mo., nre not going to let themselves
be unhappy If they can't vote. They
apparently know something of the
value of "the power behind the throne."
Joseph Folk, the boodler-hunting Cir
cuit Attorney of St. Louis, who wnnts
the Democratic nomination for Gov
ernor, spoke to the students of the
college the other day, and they raised
this cry ot tho end of the address:
"Joe Folk! Joe Folk! He's the man!
If I can't vote, my sweetheart can"'
New Bedford Standard.
Women of Japan.
More than 10,000 Japanese women
have volunteered to -go to the front to
act as nurses. Both before and since
the war with China the women of
Japan have attended tho hospital train
ing schools, where instruction Is given
by American aud English nurses, nnd
there ore now no better nurses in the
world than those of Japan. Many of
these nurses, as well as tho women
physicians, ore widows of generals and
other officers who were killed in thut
wur; others are very young girls.
Women Are Slim p-Kjeil Clueati,
Will any truthful woman pretend
that sho ever stayed in the house of n
friend for a couplo of days without
being keenly conscious of n gross mil
management outhe part of her hostess
Liverpool Tost.
The Eton Jacket reigns supreme In
suitdom.
Wider cuffs are uulversul upon the
newest shirt waists.
Souple taffeta Is the name given tho
new soft taffeta Just Introduced.
The very newest point of fulness for
the puffed sleeve is quite above the
elbow.
Hale blue and mauve is one of tho
siuurt mllllueiy combination of tho
season.
Tbo voile costume will be oue of the
most prominent features of tho coming
sea sou.
Flounces and feather will divide
favor as tho correct trimming for tho
uew hut.
The lingerie stylo of shirt waist I
tho prevailing oue, uo matter what the
material.
Lustre is the demand of tho hour ia
ribbons, ns in ull silk material for
Women's costumes.
The Fuqulu shoulder is one of the
most popular of tho season for Etou
Jackets and shirt waists.
Mannish style of glove are quto'
passe. I'reseut costume styles ure 'ull
feminine and glove styles must con
form thereto.
The nun's fold skirt, w'hli h originated
with Faquln, aud tho two-Boiiucud
skirt In typical 18.(0 style, are aoioag
the smartest of ts season.
Now Y'ork City. Dresses for the lite
of confirmation and for the closing
function of the school year require to
be simple at the same time thnt they
CONFIRMATION OR GRADUATION,
are smart and are preferably made of
some transparent material. This one,
designed by May Manton, Includes the
drop yoke nnd broad shoulders of tho
season, with the shlrrlngs that are so
exceedingly fashionable and Is niadn of
white organdy with ruches of the
snme nnd Valenciennes lace. When
liked the neck can be left low nnd the
sleeves In elbow length, so making
the frock nvnllable for a variety of oc
casions. The ruchlngs on waist and
sleeves are specially worthy of note
and give the suggestion of a bolero,
which Is both becoming nnd lu the
height of style.
The costume consists of the wnlst
nnd the skirt. The waist Is made over
a fitted foundation, on which Its vari
ous parts nre nrrnnged, the yoke, that
Is cut In one piece, nnd the sleeves mid
wnlst that are shirred on continuous
lines. The sleeves nre large nnd full
at and above the elbows, but form long
A Late Design
fitted cuffs below which extend well
over the hnnds. The skirt is made of
three pieces, the front gore and the clr
cular side portions, which are shirred
to give a yoke effect, and Is arranged
over n shallow yoke foundation to
which the shlrrlngs are attached.
The quantity of inuterlul required for
medium size is eight nnd three-fourth
yards twenty-one inches wide, six and
one-half yards twenty-seven Inches
wide, or four and one-eighth yards for-ty-four
Inches wide, with one yard of
all-over lace, one-fourth yard of silk
for belt and six nnd fifth-eighth yards
of ruchiug.
A Woman Willi Clray Hair.
A woman with gray hair looks lier
hest iu pale shades of grey, or in
white. A frnnkly mlddle-iiged lady
caused a ripple of admiration in one
of our hotels not long ugo. She came
lu to dinner In a frock of the palest
silver gray, very straight and simple,
with some old lace and dull silver
buckles. She was a pleasunt faced
woman und held herself well, but her
crowning glory wus her head of beau
tiful gray hair, slightly waved and
smoothly shining. A woman whose
hulr has turned gray should not be
moan, or worse still, try to remedy it.
but should make a feature of It dress
up to It, as It were.
The Latest t'ollTure.
The softly waved hulr Is drawn back
loosely and twisted in a long coll from
the nape of tho neck to tho very top
ot the head, where It Is arranged in
two or three puffs, above the pompa
dour. In the Indentation made by tho
coll Is placed u spray of small flowers
and foliage, pinned closely to the head
or a long narrow comb, exactly at right
angles to tho wy back combs have
beeu worn for so long. A very smart
woman was seen tho other day with
her masses of fair hair done In this
new inuiiiier, and a half inch baud of
amber ran from the top of her pemi
online tn ftliA erawn nf liw liefltl.
- i
Voile anit NallonallllM.
The French womnn arrange her veil J
Just to luclude the tltf of her nose,
1 ill: ij 1 1 'hi A
and allows It to fall In loose nnd grace,
ful folds ut the buck. It Is n style thai
Is recalled from the beginning of lss
century. Brown nnd black Chnutllljr
nrrnnged In this way are very grace
ful. The Americans drape the veil over
Ihe back of the hat iu another style no
other nation seems able to copy. The
English woman strains hers over her
face, overlapping the chin. The Rui
slan abjures them nltogethcr. The
Queen.
Hark Clown 1 1 favor.
As Is always the case when light
colors have beeu fashionable for soma
time, there Is a revolution iu favor of
dark ones, so tills year there will ba
many dark costumes worn. But there
ure some charming browns and greens
and purples, and one shade of red In
the American Beauty rose color, nnd
nil of these nre thought very smurt
The black cloth or black velvet cos
ttiine, however, or thp very dark
brown, will be the uiost popular of any,
and the same color Is carried out '
the afternoon and evening wraps.
An t'nderakli-l.
Any girl who has an old party frock
of taffeta can make a very pretty un
derskirt to wear with her house anil
evening gowns. ;For the ruffle get
wash net oi' point d'esplit, and ucrosn
the bottom place bias bands of silk
Sew the ruflle to the skirt with another
band and you have u very dainty af
fair. KflVctlve.
Dahlia Is n favorite color and cerl3?
Is worn quite a little. A gown of
cerise cloth Is very effective, woru
under a wrap of moleskir or squirr
especially for u brunette.
Blouse Walat.
Capo effects of all sorts mark the sea.
son and are becoming to the generality
of figures. This stylish waist, after u
late May Manton fashtlon plate, shows
a deep collar of n novel sort and one
thnt Is quite simply mude. As illus
trated the material for the blouse H
white Persian lawn and the trimming
embroidered flouncing and Insertion.
by May Manton.
The flouncing makes the collar, which
is seumed nt the shoulders, where It
droops well over tho sleeves. All
wuiNilug materials nre, however, ap
propriate and the cupe collar cau be
made to match the waist with the
edge embroidered or trimmed lu any
manner that may be preferred.
The waist is made with fronts and
backs and Is fitted by menus of shoul
der and uuder-iirm seams. The fronts
are tucked at the shoulders to yoke
depth, and both fronts and backs are
arranged in full length tucks that give
a double box pleat effect at the centre.
The cape collar Is shaped by means of
the shoulder seams and Its edges are'
nt Inched beneath the outer tucks of
these groups. The sleeve nro full be
low the elbow, smaller above and are
finished with straight cuffs In conform,
ity with the necepted style.
. The quantity of material required for
medium size 1 four yards twenty-one
Inches wide, three and seven-eighth
yards twenty-seven inches wide, or two
und one-fourth yards forty-four Inches
wide, with one aud three-fourth yards
BLOl'SB WAIST.
- ,, : -
oi eiuoioiuery nine tnchc wide for
capo collar utld 0110 and five-fttehth
yard of Inxcrtlou to trim a Illustrated
la medium size. .. ,