TWENTY YEARS AOO.
I've wandered through the village, Tom, nd sit beside the pen
Where you ire still reducing rock a you were doing when
I left you hack in eighty-four ah me! How time does fly!
, Excuse me while I wipe a briny teardrop from my eye.
The game old bricks are in the wait you couldn't eto.il the briefest
The same old warden watching you, to thwart the same old tricks.
Hut few are left to greet me, Tom. and none ia loi t to know
The way they came to aend up you, just twenty years ago.
Your cell looks rather different. Torn the bars have been replaced
ly new ones stronger than the bars your trusty file defaced,
But the same old lockstep's still in vogue you 'journey to sa.il ho
With little of the awkwardness ot twenty years ago.
You know I was your lawyer, Tom, and when the sentence came
You tried to make me shade my fee. and said I was to blame,
But I had done my duty you are doing yours, I know,
So let us, I'i'uy, dismiss the theme of twenty years ago.
V. F. Kirk, in Milwaukee Sentinel,
FIREPROOF
00
By Morice Girard
sMOJV ELL, Gerald, you seem
X smb )i strangel;' distrait to-night;
O Wo It Is toothache or love,
Jl v man?" exclaimed the Jovhu
"fOW rector of Menstonc, tin
Itev. Hurry Ingold, a squarson f the
old school, now fast passing nwny.
Mountjoy started as the older man
laid his luinil on bis shoulder.
"Not toothache, I'm thankful to say.
I've never been troubled Willi that iu
my life."
"Then it must be the other thine."
Ingold linked hU arm Into bis friend's
and drew him Into u recess. There were
several of these convenient rest lug
lduees In the treat ballroom of Mol
bins Castle.
The scene was certainly not one
which favored either
abstraclion. Sir Harry Guyter, the
owner of Mrllans, was giving u ball
to Inaugurate bis shrievalty of the lov
liest county of England, in the eyes of.
at any rate. Its Inhabitants, Devon. It
was an affair of the elite of the coun
ty, with a largo military, naval and
marine element thrown in, to give a
touch of brillh'.nee and color to the en
semble. It may be doubted whether
more beautiful women or u liner body
of men bad ever before responded to
the hospitable Invitation of the lord
of Mellans Castle than on this particu
lar occasion.
From the alcove to which Ingold and
Mountjoy bad retired glimpses could
be obtained of the dancers as they
floated past on the carefully polished
floor. Gerald sat forward, looking ea
gerly at the couples gracefully circling
round to the tune of a wall,, played
by the marine band from Plymouth,
stationed in the whispering gallery.
The younger man was so intent and
preoccupied that he seemed already to
have forgotten at any rate, he was ob
livious of the propinquity of his com
panion. Ingold looked nt the fresh, strong,
handsome face with evident sympathy.
He knew perfectly what wus passing
behind that inadequate, lll-nttlng mask.
He knew that every time the revolu
tion of the dance brought Bertha
Iteeve and her parlner. Lord Dayre,
Into Mouutjoy's line of vision, a hard
ness came about the flexible- mouth,
and something very like pain showed
Itself in the clear gray eyes.
"You don't think Bertha would ever
look at him, do you, Gerald? Why,
be could crumple him up in t: palm
of one hand. She is the finest girl In
the room, and that's not saying little.
And 'be! Why, he has the Intellect and
frame of an under-sized monkey!"
"What does It matter to me whether
the looks at him or not? Besides, you
never know what a woman thinks or
what she likes."
"Don't you? I do. I never was a
marrying man; but not the most In
veterate husband lu this room, or any
where else, for that matter, can teach
roe- about what a woman likes or dis
likes." "Perhaps, then," lie remarked, some
what testily, "you will tell me what
tbey do like?"
"Well, above all things, some one
Itronger than themselves more Inches,
more fibre, more strength. Only a
woman who wants a title, and can
content herself with that and nothing
more, will marry Dayre; and I can
assure you, with all the confidence in
life, that woman Is not Bertha Reeve."
"I cannot help thinking some
times " Gerald said almost under
bis breath.
"That Bertha cares for you--loves
rou?" put In the parson.
"Almost that," Mountjoy assented,
tfter a pause.
"Why don't you take your courage
In both hands, and ask her?"
Gerald looked at bis friend. ,
"How can I?"
"Why not?"
"You know the state of mr ex
jhequer just as well as I do. I have
the oldest name In the county and the
poorest property. My pedigree Is as
long as my rent roll Is short. Bertha
la MIbs Iteeve, of Reeve, the richest
g-lrl in the west, absolute mistress of
herself and all her belouglugs. If she
were poor I would ask her to go with
ai e to Canada, or somewhere, and wo
ould make out life together somehow.
Rut as It Is! Would not meu say I
was a fortune hunter? Nay, should
I not feel like one myself? I cannot
iven talk to her like I can to other
(Iris. I should say that she thinks
that fellow Dayre a genius by the side
f me. Look at them now."
The dance was over. They were now
it the further end of the salon. Lord
Dayre was half a head shorter than
his companion, Au Ill-matched pair
physically, any one would have said
off-band. Out tboss who knew the dr.
eumstances might bare Judged differ'
tntly. For In rank Dayre would take
rank of any one at the ball, and In
wealth the mistress ot Iteeve, an or
phan rullug In ber owu right, bid uo
peer.
Neither Ingold nor Mountjoy spoke
I word for the next few minutes,
which atviurd like an eternity to one
f them at any rate. Gerald felt per.
fectlj cvrlalu that what Its loved most
e o
l:i the world was slipping from his
grasp, and his fate wus being decided
while the band rested from Its labors,
and the gay assemblage prepared It
self for the next lioui in the pro
gramme. There seems something specially in
congruous tu blank despair gripping
the heart under such conditions. The
brilliancy of the lights, the beautiful
dresses and conspicuous uniforms all
seemed to mock the gnawing pain at
Gerald's In art.
Bertha Iteeve and Lord Dayre passed
Hie alcove. As they did so these word
I'eil, Mifily ns they were spoken. o:i
two pairs of ears: "I hardly know
what to say; it is ail so unexp"cted.
You do not wish me to decide to
nighl?" "May I come for my answer to
morrow?" Then the speak":' passed out of
hearing of those Involuntary listen
ers. "I cannot stay here," Mountjoy said,
in n horse whisper, very unlike his
usual tones. "The air of the place
chokes me. I shall get nwny without
any fuss. They won't miss me. If
they do, make some excuse to Sir Hur
ry and Lady Guyter. Say I was tak
en bad, or something.','
With a squeeze of the hand Gerald
slipped out of the alcove. Mechani
cally he found his coast and hat, and
then went out nt the hull door. lie was
glad that the stables were likely to be
deserted. II had not brought a
groom himself. In Ids present slate
of mind be baled to have to make
even trivial explanation and excuses.
With some difficulty be managed to
And his own mare among the hundred
horses tethered wherever standing
room under cover could be found. The
carriages were outside iu the greut
yard.
Gerald was Just Issuing from tho
stables when lie heard u great shout
ing from the direction of the castle.
He let go his mare's bridle: she gal
loped otit of t lie yard and disappeared.
Mountjoy smelt burning wood. He
ran toward the entrance of the court
yard. - When he reached the great
gates his heart stood still. All the
basement and ground floor of Mellans
were In Karnes. Panelled mid lined, as
the tine old rooms were, with oak. dry
as tinder, centuries old. with a great
staircase of similar material In the
centre, the castle was just adapted for
rapid conflagration.
As It turned out afterward, when
Investigation Into the cause of the out
break was made, the lire originated
with the overturning of a lamp lu
the butler's pantry.
Gerald rushed to the main entrance,
before which a crowd of guests were
standing. They all seemed paralysed
with fear. The young man brushed
thein to one side. He could see Bertha
Reeve nowhere. She must be in the
burning building still. And there was
Ingold, too, the man he loved best Iu
the world.
Gerald dashed into the hall, meeting
overwhelming smoke. Ho was chok
ing, and his eyes, were smarting and
red hot. He could hear the cries of
girls, the shouting of men above. In
bis frenzy be could have flung himself
Into the flames which danced before
him.
Then an arm was laid upon bis
shoulder, and be was half drugged,
half led, out. It was the parson,
whose courage wus of that order which
rises calm and resolute to the greatest
emergency.
The men, under Iugold's direction,
were bringing up long ladders.
Up and down they went In relays,
bringing In their arms fainting wo
men. The gentlemen above either
helped by banding iuseusible burdens
to the rescuers, or stood back to wait
their turn.
Half a dozen times Gerald had been
up and down the ladder he hud made
his own. Ingold was at the next. On
each journey be had brought some one
to the outside air ami safety, and then
handed her to another willing helper
to take away. But that some one wus
not the girl for whom, with ghid prod
igality, he would have given his life.
Then at flie last, when ulmost all were
saved, Gerald saw Bertha. He
Jumped from the ludder top through
the window and ran to her. The
flames were at the lack of her, and
hud begun to singe her light dress.
Ird Dayre was still by her side. Just
as Mountjoy reached her she was over,
come and tottered backwards. Lord
Dayre, with a quick effort, saved her
from falling. There were uow only
these two and Gerald left at that end
the most dangerous part of the great
salon. Borne devil seised him, whis
pering In bis ear: "She has hulf giv
en herself to Dayre; let hint save her"
For years the memory of that terrible
lapao haunted uliu.
"Take Iter, Dayre, od carry ber
dowu."
Tho peer was hardly able to support
Bertha's weight, much less carry her
down the ladder. He glanced at the
window, filled with the eddying smoke;
tueu ha turned to Gerald.
"Curse yon." he said; "yon know I
can't do it. Take her yourself."
"If I do," replied Mountjoy, -I take
her for good and all."
Then he gathered the girl up In hi
arms and carried her down the bid
der, L( rd Dayre closely following.
Iu tho afternoon of the following
day Gerald rode over to UeeV! t; In
quire after its mistress.
Dressed In a teagnwu, looking very
white and Interesting, slu received
him lu her boudoir.
"I came to ask lifter ynti," he said
"To confess to ask forgiveness."
"For s.ivirg my life? It surely Is
easily obtained."
"1 had the devil in me!" he cried.
Then he told her nil.
"So yon have come to me for nhsolu.
linn?" she said. "Then you shall have
It without any pains mid penalties
since you saved my life." Sh added
looking at It tin with a half smile. "Lord
Dayre only asked me whether I would
care to be one of his parly for n yacht
ing expedition. F.vcu that I would not
promise n.Thand. Had It been what
yon thought "
"Bertha 1"
"I should have had no hesitation at
all." London World.
TtiBrlilns Si liocil in t'Wslu.
Persians servants are always sum
moned and addressed by their masters
as "children." When Mr. Wilfred
Sjiarrow became tutor to the children
of the royal family of Persia he wus
greatly nmu.vcd by the daily customs
of tin' little princes. He tells of his
llrst day in Hie schoolroom:
We were in Hie middle of a lesson
when Akbar Mltv.a, Hie magnificent,
laying down his pen and taking oil' his
spectacle, complained of the heat,
which was 1)."i in lire shade, "it is
hoi, yr.- snlr." he salt'.
1 made to reply, whereupon he re
sun: 'd his work: but in a moment lie
lifd 1 1 i his voice oiiee more. This
lime his tone was loud and imperious
"Bachaha' (child; he cried.
To my a in.'. .en). 'lit, In stepped the
idately general, and stood in an atti
tude of brave humility at a respectful
dlstiiRce, his head bowed and his
hands clasped folded at the waist
"Ab-l-lkhmerihiii" (drinking water)
was Akbar' a word, and smart the sur
tip's action. Out he went, and back
be cuuio with u silver teapot In his
hand. Very solemnly aud slowly he
went the round of the class, and rais
ing the spout to each thirsty little
mouth In turn, waited iu patient si
lence until the imperial thirst bud been
quenched. While one little prince was
being served, his neighbor, eyeing the
silver nipple,' sucked his litis In antid
ilution of the refreshing draught. As
for me. It was mine to iwel-ln the hu
mor of the scene, which wf.s followed
soon after by au interlude Iu which
our friend, the major, in full dress,
was summoned by Bahrain Mir.a, tho
lmp'Tinus. to clean his slate.
These Interruptions tickled my sense
of humor, undoubtedly, but they
achieved a more useful cud than that.
They were the means of showing uie
that the nrsf tiling 1 should have to
teach these youthful Kajars was not
modern languages, but rather the first
principles of self-help, sclf-reliauce,
self-dependence. .,
1'mnonal anil l'nlitlrul Kniiiltli-.
When Irishmen do differ, they differ
all over. Tin-re are plenty of Irishmen
lu the House of Commons wlio have
not exchanged a word with each other
for years. Indeed, during the days
vhe:i the old split subsisted it was
quite a common tiling to see Irishmen
separate themselves even lu the din-inj.-roon:s
according to the group to
which they belonged, lu France It is
pretty much the same thing, for there
political differences follow the same
lines as religious and social cleavages,
end, therefore, are the more acute. 1
never expect u Freuch politician to
speak of u political opponent lu any
terms but Ihosa which would rightly
be upplied to a man who ought to be in
penul servitude uud had Just escaped
the gallows. But even In Franco there
ure mitigations. Old Grevy, when he
was President of the Chamber of Dep.
utles although he wus a very stout
Uepublicuu used to play billiards with
Paul de Cassagnac, the swashbuckling
Bouapartist. lu Germany the Social
ists are so hitter In their hostility to ah
other sections of the Imperial Parlia
ment that any one of them who would
venture to accept an Invitation from
Cour.i: Iluelow, the Chancellor, would
lose all his Influence with his col
league; In fact, he would be politically
ruined. T. P., lu M. A. P.
A Grave Krror.
Advertising men are critical of their
owu and others' productions. They
criticise tho nd. or booklet from the
standpoint of technicalities. Is the
language clear Informing grammati
cal? Is there an original idea, and is
It well worked out? Is the illustrator'
work clean-cut and effective? Is the
printing all it should be? The reader
of advertising is critical, too. But his
or her criticism .la entirely from the
standpoint of the urtlclo offered its
quality, utility, price. Good printing,
clear language, pretty illustrations mid
tine Ideas ure hardly regarded, though
readers are swayed by them beyond
question, aud perhaps criticise them
unconsciously. But the proposition set
forth is the chief consideration with
tho reader, and while the advertiser
should never lose sight of technical de
tails he will do well to remember thut
his opinions of good advertising nre
quite secondary to those of bis readers.
To look upon advertising entirely from
the technical standpoint is to make a
grave error. Printers' Ink.
Pood In tWn,
"The food of the Chinese conalsts
principally of rice and lish." That
statement bus appeared In nearly ev
ery school geography or history that
bus been published since the flood.
"It's all folderol and flapdoodle," said
a concessionaire from the Interior of
the great empire. "The streams were
fshed out ages ago, and you seldom
.nd lish In the Interior. Ou the coast
yes. Blucb fish Is eaten. But the
main food of the Chinese Is pork and
chickens. ' Mutton aud beef aro rare.
Less rice Is eaten than you would liu
uglue, but there is an abunduuee of
pulutuble vegetables,1 aud you would
find no illffleult lu muklug out a god
d lunar." -
IN
fashion In llnnilnrlilng.
There Is n fashion ln handwriting
Just as there Is a fashion in clothes:
but, fortunately, the modes of callg
raphy change with less weathercock
like facility than those of chiffons do.
There Is also a vast amount of char
acter revelation In handwriting; so
perhaps even If it became the vogue to
niter the handwriting as often as the
hat, women would be unable to con
form to the rule, says Home Chat.
But to return to the question of
style, or fashion. The woman who
writes what Is called the Italian hand
has almost died away with the old
days lu which the penny post had no
existence and letter writing was a
real art. We scribble now, whereas
when twenty-hours went further than
they do now women produced won
ders In the art of cnligraphy.
The gentle nurtured and carefully
educated girl of the very earliest dsys
wrote a sloping hand, formed her let
ters clearly and carefully, made very
long tops and tails to those letters
that require them, and took a pride iu
forming her up strokes with delicate
fineness, falling oil iiL'.'iiti to a line,
light finish.
She was very particular about the
formation of her capital letters, using
many a quaintly wonderful flourish;
mid she endeavored, as best she might
on her closely lined pages, to preserve
an even line, employing sometimes
ruled note paper, or using beneath
ber paper n sheet of ruled paper, the
lines of which gleamed through the
top sheet and proved a guidance to her
pen.
Many men of culture and refinement
also adopted the Italian style of band
writing. Those who have seen the
signature of that great surgeon. Sir
James Paget, will recollect the sloping
character of the caligraph. the light
ami dark up and down strokes and the
length of the looped letters. But In
Sir .Tames Paget's case, as iu that of
many other men of his marvellous In
tellectual power ond unohstrusive
modesty, flourishes of a pronounced
type were absent.
Miss Braildon's handwriting tends
toward the Italian style with pointed
letters, well defined tails, and n ills
tinct difference between the up nnd
down strokes.
It used to be cruelly said of women
who wrote au ill-formed, undecipher
able baud, that they were unable to
spell: and of a truth in many cases
this was undoubtedly so. In ancient
days, of course, neither men nor worn
en could bo 1 lamed for bad spelling
L'nlll the standard of orthography was
settled, how wus it possible for any
body to spell correctly? Still, there Is
l'o doubt that until girls were ns
carefully educated as their brothers.
numbers of them did adopt n form of
handwriting that left the spelling of
their words most questionable ai re
garded accuracy.
A Woman's Appearance.
There- was a time when a woman
going to look for a situation put on her
oldest or poorest clothes either to ex
cite sympathy or to demonstrate that
she was very hard up Indeed. But
all that has changed, aud the woman
who goes In search of work presents
ns good an nppi nrancp us possilde,
appreciating that It multiplies the nd
verse odds to appear out at elbows
and on thu verge of poverty, says the
New York Sun.
There are women who contend that
to be well dressed Is only within
range of u few. But there are others
who have given the question consld
ernble care, nnd they assert that It Is
within the power of all, provided the
matter Is approached from the stand
point of common sense. . I-'alltiro Is
duo not to want of money, but to
want of appreciation of merit or do
merit nnd to n certain slavish order
of mind which leads to a blind fol
lowing of fashion, without seriously
considering whether it i the fashion
for one's self or not.
Here of course lies the differ
nice between the dressmaker and the
artist in dress. The purses of many
ure not long enough for the demands
of the latter, nnd therefore It Is more
Incumbent ou the majority to study
seriously the requirements of their
own physiques, so that they may sup
ply to the dressmaker the want which
Is so costly lu the hands of the artist,
namely, the knowledge of certain In
violable lines ou which their clothing
must be built, nnd to which the reign
ing fashion must Inevitably give way.
The pity of It nil is that woman In
-the pursuit of the beautiful In dress
does not always study it from the
end and object of It nil to present
one's personality In its most attractive
guise Is common to the sex. but at
tainment is reserved for the few.
Possibly this arises from the fact
that, though women may be fully
alive to their attractions, they show a
lamentable Ignorance of their defects.
Indeed, a full realization of both Is
Indispensable to success la this im
portant matter. For nll-lmportuut It
Is, though tunny rank it among the
trivialities aud posslhj.v the snares of
life. The self -respecting woman Is
well groomed, well dressed, present
ing In herself an object of respect.
The critic Judges one by the out
ward adornment rather than the In
ner virtues of one's soul, and pos
sibly does not go far wrong in taking
the former as nn Index of the bitter.
Slovenliness -f the body Is very tiearly
allied to slovenliness of uiltid.
"Kt.ln lu" Flu An.
It requires a pmillar gift for s rfrl
to keep herself lu the "wlm." so tlvy
siiy, A worbly womau said: "Tact
uiii mniicy alone will beig a girl lu
y.m
A I 1 1 I I
WOMAN S
society. It Is more difficult, by far, ti
stay in society than to get In. A
girl's mother must entertain continu
ally and broaden her visiting list
There nre exceptions where th" girl
is so attractive that she becomes the
vogue. But I am Inclined to think
that If she does not reciprocate ami
at least have n few friends to dinner,
she will be dropped gradually by the
relentless pursuers of a 'good time."
The New York man of to-day nsks.
'Does she entertain ':' I'nless there Is
a chance of a good dinner or a night
at the play, or at least a cheering cup
of tea and good company, the full
fledged society ntan Is not Inclined to
bother. For all the sets In New York,
there are ten girls willing to be ad
mitted. Society appeals to most
women and lo comparatively few men.
That Is why the women must lose no
opportunity to conciliate the few ui
there are." New YorV Press.
Hour :1n.srs For Children.
A clever mother recently gave hour
glasses to her three (liihlren. They
were timed to run out the end of an
hour, half hour, uud fifteen minutes,
respectively. The little girl who be
fore had dawdled through her piano
practice, after watching the sands of
time run out so visibly in her hour
glass at once brrught a new .est t"
ber practice. The boys would there
after time themselves on their even
ing "chores." and hurry back to se If
they had been bee.le.i by the hour
glass, says the Pittshurs; Leader.
It was a very good way of teaching
them the value of time. If the ex
periment is tried, however, mothers
must be careful not to allow their
children to curry it to excess nt tirst,
and so grow weary of it as of a worn
out toy.
Henltli 3Ieans ISt-atily.
If you wish to be beautiful thero
are four rules you must follow. Ilesa
they nre: Have plenty of exereiso
and fresh nir. good food, sunshii.a
nnd lots of sleep. Thio last Is rjost
necessary.
A hot bath r.nd a few hours' sleep
will do wondera to renew a youthful
appearance.
Never eat or work If you are over
tired. The digestive organs will surely
refuse to do their task properly, and
you will suffer the reaction.
It Is always best to obey nature's
laws just as strictly in regard to our
complexion, as well ns our lives.
I'se tepid water to wash In. and If it
Is hard a little borax will soften it. ns
bard water is very bad for tlie skiu,
New York Ai.ierkan.
Insi-owiijg Nulls.
Despite the protests of many girls
who nre not yet converted, ingrowing
toenails are invariably produced by
pressure or n blow, says the Min
neapolis. Tribune. A shoe too narrow
across the toe or tread of the foot,
or lusutllciently long for caso nnd
comfort, though largo enough else
where, cither cramps or distorts the
fore parts of the foot nnd toes or
arrests the nails In their proper
growth forward, forcing them back
Into the sensitive flesh lit their roots
and sides and causing them to grow In
width and thickness only.
The results of tight shoes ore not
always Immediate, but they are sum
and very painful.
Messaline silk Is a leader here and
abroad.
Comparing the late winter gowns
with the few spring models on view,
one sees little change in the general
outline, or silhouette, as an artist
would call It.
' A churralng dressing Jacket of pure
white crepe and Irish luce is made
like a shawl. The sleeves are formed
by the short points of the shawl, and
a ribbon gathers in the fulness at the
waist.
This season's velveteens have
proven as durable and as satisfactory
in all ways as the manufacturers
promised, and It Is to be hoped that
fashion will ullow them another sea
son s vogue.
There Is a craze for gowns where
the wulst Is a tiny bolero, pelerine, or
sailor collar of the skirt material over
a blouse of thin materlul or luce. It
Is a pretty, graceful fashion and fur
ulshes a hint for making over gowns.
The cotton and silk mixtures con
tlnue to come In. Among them
flecked tissue de sole, silk gauzes, sat
in Usse, and polntllle cotton are fa
miliar In name, but are much mora
beautiful this year than before.
The military Jacket has taken re
markably well. Only tine broadcloth
or the best quality of xlbellue enters
Into Its construction. There Is a lav
Ish use of braid lu frogs, epaulets,
and bindings. This short style Is
adupted only to slender, youthful fig
ures, but ou these U looks unusually
smurt.
Everything Is to be tucksd, we ara
Informed, but the fucks are by no
means to be the straight arouud or
even up aud dowu variety. Tucks in
all sorts of circular and cretwnf
shaped designs nre prcaufed. Hoft
silks aud pougees yield xueniselves te
this sort of needlework manipulation.
Of course. It 1 all baud doue.
New York City. Deep yoke collars
make a characteristic of the latest
waist and give nil the drooping, long
shoulder effect that Is required by fash-1
WAIST WITH FAXCV YOKE COI.I.Ait.
ion. The very attractive May Manton
waist illustrated shows one of a re
movable sort and allows of high or
low neck or of a convertible one, as
the waist can be made high and cov
ered with the yoke collar, or low and
worn either with or without as occa
sion demands: or, again, the yoke col
lar can be omitted altogether and a I
yoke above the shirring uiilv used, t
making a shirred waist with plain
yoke that gives quite a ilitl'erent ollVcr. I
The model Is made of white crepe de
chine, with trimming of Venetian lace,
but Innumerable suggestions might be
made, all the soft materials of the sea
son being well adapted for shirrlugs.
The waist is made over a tilted 'iu
Ing and is Itself shirred at the upper,
gathered at the lower anil Is closed iiN
A Late Design
visibly at the back. The yoke collar Is
circular and can be finished separately
or with the waist, its neck edge being
finished with u stock, or it can lie cut
off at indicated lines and the berthu
portion only used, or, if liked. Hie lin
ing can be faced to form a yoke, the
shirrlugs at the upper edge of the
waist making the finish nnd the entire
yoke itillar omitted. The sleeves are
mounted over lilted linings and are full
at the elbows, shirred at the shoulders
uud finished with gauntlet cuffs, that
are omitted when elbow sleeves are de
sired. The quantity of material required
for the medium size is four and one
half yards twenty-one Inches wide,
four yards twenty-seven Inches wide,
or two and five-eighth yards forty-four
Inches wide, with Hvc-clsjbth yards of
all-over bice ami three and one-quarter
yards of applique to trim us Illustrated,
The tiprlns: Slilrl Waist.
The salient features of the styles for
spring, lu till wulsts, is the extreme
breadth of shoulder; Indeed, lu many
of the Imported models this breadth
reaches half way to the elbow, hence
yoke effects promise to be a prominent
part of ull the dressy wulsts and also
of a great number of shirt waists,
whether of pique or of thin lawn. Long
epaulette straps, bauds of let-In luce.
folds, shirring, sleeve caps, etc., nre ull
pressed Into service lu the development
of tho new mode. Plain shirt wulsts
are given u modish touch by an insert
ed band of luce or embroidery slmulat
lug Hie drop or 1H3U yoke.
I.lna Collars,
Linen collars of the stiff sort are in
again, after a season of disfavor, but
while the severely plain linen collar is
seen, tho modish stiff collar bears au
embroidery of dots or tiny dowers or
scrolls. Mometlmes Its edge Is scal
loped and buttonholed, sometimes its
narrow stiff linen hem Is Joined to the
collar with open work, aud altogether
It Is a linen collar of a distinctly co
quettish type that Is with us now.
A New In Hats.
A new bleu, or, rather, tin old one re
vived. Is tbtlt the but must natch the
gown, thus necessitating the posse
siou of as many hats as gowns. It if
artistic nnd effective nnd can be man
aged with a little extra cost If one bus
taste and skill for managing one or
two black nod white bats with dif
ferent trimmings, which can be ad
justed hy d,.ft lingers In it few moments.
Mnallii anil Hailxle liiilie.
Sonic handsome muslin ami balists?
roues, entirely hand sewed, were sen
a day or two ago. One of these robe
was of gray batiste, embroidered in
black and white. The skirt was)
trimmed with several embroidered
rutllcs. the fulness supplied by liny
hand run tin ks. The waist was luckcil
In tin same way ami embroidered in a
light, graceful design.
The Newest flliivps.
The newest gloves for reception ami
evening wem- show delicate pink, blmi
nnd mauve linings. A spray of flow
ers, to mutch the lining. Is often em
broidered or painted ou the buck of th
glove. Forgct-nie iiols, violets and ar
butus ore favorite blossoms.
f.rnf Trlmtiilnii.
Leaf trimmings are among the nota
ble successes In millinery. Viob-t
leaves and rose leaves are uel to dec
orate the edge of the hat brim. Ij
tniiiiy Instances they cover it.
lEnlie downs.
Kobe gowns of voile or similar light
fabrics, combined with lace and fag it
log. are often very beautiful.
r.liH-k lvct'i'n.
Very smart Is a black velveteen gown
trimmed with white satin whereon is
braided silver cord.
ItliHi.p nr whirl Wnl.l.
Bandings in Oriental colors are to l
noted among the features of linen and
cotton waists as well as of those mad"
from wool and silk. This smart and
novel May Manton model suits mate
rials of a'.l sorts, but is shown lu heavy
by May Manton.
white linen with bandings of the same
material. The vest effect, obtained by
the narrow front, is exceedingly be
coming and quite novel, yet in no way
detracts troui the simplicity and use
fulness of the waist, whK-h is equally
well adapted to the ei.tire costume
and to wear with n separute skirt
Fronts, buck and sleeves all are tucked
to simulate box pleats, which give tup
crlng lines at the buck and provide
fulness over the bust.
The waist consists of frouts, centre
front, back and sleeves, Willi fitted
waist and sleeve linings that can be
used or omitted as preferred. The cen
tre front is plain and is stitched to the
right front, booked over into the left
beneath the tuck, so making the cloa
lug invisible. The sleeves nre tucked
to be snug above the elbows and form
full puffs below, the centre tucks be
ing extended to the cuffs, so giving the
line that is so notable a feature of the
season.
The quantity of material required
for the medium size Is four and one
quarter yards twenty-one inches wide,
three and live-eighth yards twenty
seven inches wide, or two and ons
Dl.orttK Ult MUilU V aUr.
!irbt:i nids forty-four Incites wkl.
with one aud one bnlf yards of lin
lug live lot lie wide lo trim as illus
WW,
7