THE LOWER EANCH.
m-
BY HATTIE HORNER LOUTHAN.
.MOK. ASON GRANT sat In his
liKlit spring wagon, wait
O I O Ing to go with IiIh wife and
t R tuT friends to tlio Lower
Ranch. She was really
going, nlthough she hnd
vowed thnt slip never would. Hut they
were not reaily yet. and he bowed his
head on his hand and allowed his
mi iid to wander over the aluioHt twenty
Jenr of their married life.
No one would over neru.se Jason
Oant of sentimentality: yet In thin
retrospection hit) thoughts dwelt with
singular persistence upon a pertain
morning In a haying season long neo,
when pretty Mnry Moure hnd crnin to
lielp his mother co:ik for tho hay hand.
I!p recalled the Jealous pans with
"which he saw ilie young minister drive
Mnry to t li door-for .bison flrniit.
Ii::rd-worklng, rloe-hiiii'led, grasping,
v.-ns never given to Heiitlnictit. But
twenty yean made a ('.inference; nnd
lie had heea at that time what most
of th" other f:ir:ner hoys were even
though every one thought liim wrapped
up la land-getting and Mincy-miiking.
liwv well he remembered that day!
lip had made numerous trip, neces
sary ami innpeeary, from hay field
to house, Just for a v.ord with Mary
Moore, or Tor a glimpse of her plump
form and blooming faee. The picture
ihnf rose oftonest before him was that
Tit Mary, framed ly ilie doorway. smil
ing upon 1 it in a h" turned away with
the liamucr for whic'.i he had made
one of those tiii:i"vary trip. That
sm!!e had made his hart heat like a
linminer at another sort foulisli fel
Jor. :
-Mi, me: h could nee It all in detail
the jvllo-.v farmhouse with grc:i shut
ters, the I'-anto" for tool, the hench,
ti.'p grindstone, the scythe, the garden
rak. ilie wood-pile with the ux in the
old stump, the wel!-nweep, beyond the
atretch of orchard fence. t'.w I nrn.
.swallow-circled, and the fast-multiply.
.Ing HiaeU of emerald hay.
-faso:i, the only son. had InVrlted
l'ie (irant homestead: mid Mary Moore
Jiiid ii.'en wise, from th" worldly point
r,l vie:,-, in accepting his haul, grasp
ing though It was, rather than that of
the young mliiist'r. which had heen
offered her on that very morning's
drive.
It was more the spirit of innate eo
rjiiplry that prompted her to Inform the
reticent yov.ng farmer of the honor
proffered her ly the minister; though
Jason Clranr. during the soher second
thought following the arduous Inslst
ir.ee of his own proposal, came to the
;oneJusio: that t!ie information had
been vouch -d him hi order to bring
lilw to the point.
H'.i rather had for some time lin.l
li!s business eye upon n rl-h bottom
land ranch, an entire sec.ion, six hun
dred and foriy io i.lly acres, woo led,
watered r.nd gently sloping, and lying
In th It; vlii.l,'. . ,l:-th of the much
itnikn.Vrf I li i , from s it to s.-nt
i : il:- a.'j..:r- ; v.-.-Ml. ;. W!:-:i old
l:.".:n ;ir,i: i Cr.n.; v. -n his last III
L shortly i.e.",, re ills ion's wedding.
I'.e c-o:i!',d to .--ic-iive brill-
tr.-oor.i tii.-.t 11: cowed ra:i'-h r iuid
J e had upon a ,":'.n!l payment. niM bv
Mmnh!- the 1 - ivy, ii:o;i:.ii long-time
nw :.-!.:. hci. I l.y ej.st parties; and
lh;:t the acc liren er.l o it was worih
fve.i p. oi;:cr.c:.;e:it cf the wed
.i!r.r. 1. ut love is love; his Kundering pro
posal wai i.i::''. r.nl the marriage
r."I-iirated slr.r.ly r.,ter tiie old father
l:ed "en l.iid to r.-st. It was not tin
t:i '."i" v.-.'d.li:;- ,';,v that tiie youn?
rar.c!,iiM., t(1;.i l)s irl(lo of t()(
OSn l per, ;,. ;,, 5f ().., I.ow;. U.ulf.,(
that it would ivriuire all Ids readv
Money for the first ayia.-it. and that
thr? would have to defer their intend
ed weddn" tour to the Statu capital.
Ii.Hten.1. idie r.,c,:it accompanv him to
Ihe eonnty-scat. wli.re he must eo to
Jj.t up tl: tr.m-i'er of t!ie liiori-,'ir.-.
H Mrs. .Tason firant-how prowl
0i" Km of the i.ew name infor'iip 1
tier triemls and the inliilsrer-who had
the pace to hide his disappointment
nml ol'lclate at the weddiii-4-that fr
. present ;s;,and and nu,"
would Journey t., the county -scat and
tP at th Pest hotel till "my lius
ImndV business was settled, that of
1'U.vini; six hui:dre nd forty ai res of
the richest iM.ttom-lanil In the country;
that later they would build n line
bouse nn their new ranch, and move
there; and that they would go on their
wim'.iHiik trip in the fall.
Nepdless to suy, that weddlnc tour
na never taken. Ho thin was the first
't a lon-4 nerles of credits to Mary
'rant lii her account v.ith the Lower
Jian h. That fall her health was not
l!i( liest: by sprlni?. bnhy Itubrn came
Mid the multiplication of household
-area tied her to the home ranch. Hut
-Mnry wnn youn nnd mron, nnd like
xny other lovinit womun, centred her
I enrt In her liusband, home nnd hnby.
nns about her work, nnd lauub'Hl
lown any mention of a wedillnx tour.
Thfre were so mnny otlier thing she
wanted more; a Imby-carrhiKe, aonio
new clothes, nnd nn Imtrain cnriiet
for the best room. But her inothcr-in-law
said Kho had ralsd one ho:i and
ViJt daughter wltho it n baby carrluite;
that the weddiiiz clothes could be
made over, nnd that rag-carpet oui;ht
la be Rood eiiouub for farmers' wives.
When Mary nppealed to ber hu
tand. he wild irrarcly that lie feared
ihe'd bare to wait nv. l lie. a the emi
unnual payment on the Ixiwer Itanch
wn about due, ami be hardly knew
low be wa to meet It without aiicri
firing otne box on the then low mar.
tet Then Mary. In a burst of uener
oalty, ald be must do nothing of the
ort He ahouhl hare ber butter and
"3g income, wblcb waa no little. Ko
he continued to carry ber heavy baby,
made over ber meagre wedding outnt,
and apent tbe eveuinga tearing and
sewing carpet-rag.
That fall th old tnotber died, and
the funeral eipenie conauwed much
of tbe money waved toward tbe winter
payment on tbe Lower Hancb. New
.winter clothe were not to be thought
of; the butter and egg iacome eon
tiiiuad to Sow Into U Lower Eaocli
V
fund, nnd by spring Mary wns nsklng
a quarter at n time for thread and
other necessities. 8tlll she wns proud
of her husband as n land owner, and
kept sayliiK that she would go with
him some day to see the Lower Itanch.
Hut it was ten miles distant, n lon
ride for her nnd baby in the heavy
wasron, nnd she wns nlwnys so busy.
That season the crops were almost
n failure through drought, nnd the
hogs hail to go, market or no market.
In the spring another bnhy added to
Mary's cares nnd she made Huben's
Infant clothes do for the tiny girl.
How could she nsk for new things
when barns must lie painted, hired
hands paid, and that senil-aunual pay
ment always staring them In the fare?
A hired girl had been the dream of
her honeymoon days, nnd the necessity
for house help grew as the passing
years Increased the work, and slipped
babe nfter babe Into her reluctant
nrm. Hut she was told, impatiently,
I fear, that slip could see that thren
hired men couldn't put in and culti
vate nnd gather nil the crops of the
homestead and Lower llaneli and thp
rented land; he must have more help.
When once the Lower Hanch was paid
for, she could have n hired girl nnd
welcome.
It wr.s the fifth year when the mort
gage wns due that a diplomat le trip
had to bp uiade to the county-seat.
The last payment was overdue, with
only part of the Interest paid. Hut
the n-'c:it was wisp. He had learned
upon inquiry .'.u.t Ju.-o.i (irant was
honest, hard-'virkinif anil ambitious:
that he alwr.y : paid, ns he demanded
tli be paid to tiie last penny. So there
was no troul le about the extension of
the mortgag;-; and the ranchman re
turned home radiant. Ills wife was
not ns sympathetic as hp laid expected.
Every year of th- extension of that
mortgage me int another year without
belli in tiie house.
Tiie second five years proved harder
than the lirst five. Mary's superb
health yielded more nnd more to thp
sfaln. Thp rosy face nnd nrms grew
brown nnd leathery from exposure nt
the washtub. in the pardiui nnd In the
barnyard. She took Ipjs pride In hpr
self nnd children now, went less fre
quently to church, though thp minister,
still unmarried, called to protest. She
grew more nnd more silent, unfriendly
and self-contained, ns she "trod her
eternal circle" of cooking, dlsh-wnsh-Ing.
sweeping nnd mending, washing,
milking cows nnd rocking babies.
During these years of meeting pay
ments, she s '1 .om expressed n want
of n need shoes or school books for
the children, a bottle of medicine, or
small donations for tho parsonage
but she was cmfnr.tPd by tho Lower
Itanch nnil Its next payment.
At length f.. t.-.--;-r;;e wr.s lifted,
the last payment met; but the sign of
pardonable relief was quenched by the
Ko;u eu'.r:ii '.h.tt th"" "fine house"
now bp built- for renting pur
poses. The projected Branch Iioad
from county scat to county seat was
enjoying its biennial boom, the Lower
Kaiieh was on its surveyed route, nnd
as nil the adjoining randies were mak
ing Improvements, it, was Just pure
business to keep up with the neighbors
and be ready for what might happen.
The "flue house" was begun nnd
finish mI. nnd Haui'limnn Grant urgefl
his wife to. go with lii til nnd aeo It.
Mary smiled one of her grim little
smiles, and said she was too busy nnd
too tlivd; the children might go Itu
ben, Mandy and Juson. She really
never had been to ths Lower Ranch,
near as it whs, The longing of earlier
years to visit hnd (hanged, tlrst into
Indifference, nnd by-and-by into n post
tlve aversion, quite unnccountuble to
her husband.
The years that followed were full
of prosperity for Jason Grnnt. He
bought mora land to raise more corn
to feed more hogs" his eternal circle.
Ills possessions increased fields,
barns, stock, family. He would hnve
hired n girl for his wife, he told her
one day ubout here; but country help
was high-priced, nnd besides, Mandy
and Mag were quite old enough to
take responsibilities. To this Mary did
not respond. She was growing to be
almost ns silent ns lie.
More yenrs, more prosperity, more
Improvements on all the ruuehes nnd
now of tho state of nffulr nt tho old
r;'."eh house. Just u glimpse.
l.aiichiiiiin (irant sits inside the fly
screen of the west kitchen door. Mr.
Grant lias "done" the supper diUe
ami strained the milk nnd apt the yeast
and picked the chickens and put the
baby to sleep and heard Mag and
Willie's Sunday-school lessons, and
now she draws ber mending basket
near the 'amp, and approaches ber
husband on the mntter of their share
of the minister's salary. The Joneses
give ten dollur beside most keeping
the minister and his sister In meat.
The Turners give ten dollar and never
go to town without taking a bushel
of turnips to the parsonage. And didn't
he mind, they had set down four dol
lars and one-half last revival time, and
only fifty cents of It wns paid, besides
the half bushel of potatoes and what
butter she hnd spared?
Emboldened by hi silence, she goe
on to remind bliu that Huben need a
new pair of boot, since be nud the
team have been promised a week In
Turner's timber. And Mandy ought
to hnve a new calico dres If she
take the little one to Sunday-school.
And he, herclf, would like to get
another bottle of that Iron tonic Just
to carry ber over baying aeason; tbe
other bottle bad aort o' braced ber up.
She bated to go to Dr. Dean again,
when be wasn't paid yet for tending on
Willie and tbe baby.
Jason Grant la aaronliued. Doesn't
be let ber bava half tbe butter and
egg money, and oughtn't a woman to
keep berelf In little thlnge wltb all
that! lKiu't all tbe atorea where the
trade carry calico J And Buben'a
boot will laat anotber two ciontba at
leant; be noticed tbtm only laat gun
day. A to tbe parson, doesu't be,
Jaaoa Grant, give eacii of Uia cUUOrtn
a penny every Sjimlny for the collec
tion? She doesn't stop to calculato
how much that nmonuts to in a year;
women nre nothing at figures anyhow.
Well, he'll spe the pnrson some of these
days and see about that four dollars.
Maybe he'll take some more potatoes.
He settles buck to his paper without
a mention of the medicine. Hut bis
wife persists, though half frightened
at her own temerity. Can she have Just
enough to get the tonic? She enn't
sell butter nnd eggs nt the drug store.
If she can only be carried over till
cool weather. She Isn't feeling right
smart, nud baby pulls her down
nnd "
Her husband breaks In lmpntlently.
How much does a bottle ccst? Thirty
five cents. He counts out the exnet
change into her extended hnnd, mutter
ing thnt ha doesn't see how he Is ever
to improve the Lower Ilnnch If she
keeps on. Nearly n wholo half dollar
for n bottle of patent medicine that
won't do any good either. Women nre
always sick or think they nre. If they'd
only tnke care of themselves! He is
never sick. Always money! Does she
think bis breeches pockets nre chuck
full nil the limp? A man can struggle
along nil his days nnd work like n
slave nnd never get ahead. And tc
see his money, good straight silver,
cash, mind you, worse than thrown
nway on such fool things us patent
bitters! It II downright outrageous'
And two new sickle.i broken and n new
sulky rake to buy, and n stock-well to
(Mg on th? Lower Hanch, nnd won't
that ranch be hers when he Is dead?
After several such Interviews, .Mnry
Grant's aversion to tho Lower Itanch
grew Into n sort of mania. Not only
did idio refuse to see It, lint she began
Jo tell li?r neighbors In n boastful way
that slip had never seen the big piece
of land, bought when she was a bride,
now more than eighteen years ngo,
nnd what was more, she never would
go near It. It was the one subject
upon which she was talkative. The
habit grew upon her. She would tell
the same story to every one. even to
chance acqunnintices. She went so far
ns to repeat tier vow to the minister
in the presence of her husband a vow
which the minister never forgot and
which the husband never forgave.
Hut one day, after n week's absence
nt the county-seat, Jason Grant re
turned home too jubilant to remember
petty wrongs. The Hrnnch IJoad was
to be built, in fact was being built.
Tho survey was completed, construc
tion begun, nnd oh! what n fortune, a
station was located right In the south
west corner of his section. A town,
rejoicing in the name of Grantvllle.
was to be laid out, nnd he would be the
Town Company, with the price of lots
to be fixed nt his discretion. Now she
must go to see their town on their
ranch.
She heard him through with her little
mirthless smile, but shook her head.
She could not go; she was always too
tired.
And she clung to her resolution. Tho
road was completed, the town laid out.
lots sold and houses erected by th?
magic of all Western booms. 'Grant-
vllle fiourshed thnt summer and fnll.
There were the smell of new lum'.r.ir
nnd fresh pnlut and the sound of saw
and hamiupr. A quarry wns o;iened
within two miles of tho town. The
new cemetery, with Its two frosli
graves, was laid out In the northeast
corner of Jason Grant's ranch, and
even there was n boom In lots.
Hut thp Town Company's wife naver
saw the town. She kppt her vow with
the dogged persistence of her class,
though the town was their nearest
market. She remained nt home alto
gether on Sundays nfter the services
were transferred from the country
sehoolhouse to" the new church In town.
And tho neighbors whispered that
Mary Grnnt wasn't tho housekeeper
she used to bp. She hadn't entered
butter nor preserves nor patchwork
quilts nt the county fair for three
years. Her marigolds nnd holly'.ioeks
died from want of nttentlon, nnd
Mandy took the entire care of the last
baby. Even the minister's sister had
to acknowledge that Mrs. Grant "didn't
serin to take any Interest."
Jason Grant sat tu bis light sprint;
wagon waiting to go with his wife
and her frlpnds to thp Lower Ranch.
She was renlly going, although she had
vowed that she never would. But they
wero not ready yet. and be bowed his
bend on his hnnd and allowed his
mind to wander over all the years of
their married life.
Presently the minister came out of
the house, nnd spoke n word to his
sister who hnd charge of the children.
Then he come to the side of the spring
wagon nnd touched the nrm of the
dreaming man. If the minister bad
been a woman, he might have said
something bitter, since ho had never
forgotten Mary' vow. As it was, he
climbed to tbe wagon-sent In silence.
took the reins from Jason Grant's hand
and gave the sign for ths procession to
start. Waverley Magazine.
An 4othority oa Knpolcon, '
Frederick Masson. who ha Just been
elected a member of the French Acad
emy, la famed as one of the greatest
living authorities on Napoleon. Ho
represents In Its most acute phase tbe
French Napoleonic cult. His collection
of Napoleonic relics Is second to none'
except that of Prince Roland Bona
parte He baa spent a lifetime In con
noting the minutest details of Napo
leon' public and particularly private
life. But M. Masson la more than a
luero antiquarian and commentator
upon unpublished documents. He baa
a magic touch wblcb gives life to the
personage whom ba discusses, and It
Is said that bis election to tbe Academy
represent a most Important Uterar
acquisition to that august body.
TJntUrf round BUtloa In Pari.
Ac extraordinary pleo of engineer
lug la begun by tbe municipality of
Parla, wblcb will keep tbe Place de
l'Opera closed for nearly a year, and
when it la reopened It will have be
neath It aa underground metropolitan
railway atation of three floor, where
tbe aereral line will Intersect oa tbe
different level. Metallc flooring will
separate tbe three line, and will up
port th roadway. Tbe loweat line 1
twenty-one meter deep, but aa water
Is reached at A depth of ten meter
Urge part of tbe work will be done by
means of compressed air compart
meats. Beasuriag eight by twenty-flve
B.atiXi,-8grUigOI4 UeDUbUcAO, .
Bl6fJEPlT
EXERCISING FOR BEAUTY.
lorn Hint For Women Who I)lre
Muscular Development,
The following exercise Is recom
mended for filling out the chest nnd
throat: Tnke the usual erect' position
with chest out high and finp, IippIs
together, nnd hips bnck. Hrlng the
rms directly forward with the hands
tightly clinched nnd palms uppermost;
then drnw the nrms bnck as if you
were pulling nt reins, keeping the nrms
directly nt the sides nnd sending them
bnck ns far ns pver yon can. All this
time the chest must be kept forward.
Never allow it to rplnx. With every
pull nt the make-believe reins take a
deep Inhalation, exhaling wlipn the el
bows nrp far bnck. nnd take n rest of
four or five seconds. This exercise
means muscular development. ' It
should be started slowly, nnd Increased
gradually, first day repeat only five
times; in n week increase to ten. As
you get stronger, you can make it fif
teen. Hollows nt the base of the neck Is nn
r.rtlictlon with which many women
au Her,
A tiny little scoop Is considered
pretty, much prettier Indeed thna a
neck that is layers upon layers-of fat.
However, for an actual hollow In the
neck tills exercise will lie found bene
ficial: Heels together, hips back, chest out.
Close the teeth tight together, turn
the head so you will lok straight
over the right shoulder, then, with the
fingers anointed with skin food, gently
massage the left side of the neck,
sending the finger tips nbout in tiny
circles, always with an upwnrd, out
ward pressure. Massage while count
ing five; turn the bend the other way,
count live ngaln, nnd continue for six
or seven minutes never nny longer.
Hewn re of fatigue when exercising.
Remember that as soon ns yon are
tired you nre In in condition for ex
ercise. Drawing upon thp strength of
the muscles is an pxhilnratlng pastime,
not n task, nnd you should think of
your exercise In that way. Whatever
Is n bore Is not n mental stimulus, nnd
when the uiliid is congenially centred
results arc much speedier and more
lasting.
An exercise for the nervous girl who
can't slppp and who thinks slip Is the
biggest of martyrs and the saddest of
mortals Is to stand erect nnd very slow
ly relax every muscle of the body.
Drop tho shoulders forwnrd nnd let
the chest envit In; head must fall for
ward on the bust. Then very slowly
and gradually raise the chest, letting
the shoulders nnd head go back until
the head rests on the back. Sway the
shoulders forward, nnd in thnt way
bring the head in position without nny
force or tension. There must be no
muscular movement of tho neck. It is
the swaying of the shoulders that takes
tiie head from one position to anotber.
Drop right shoulder nnd lift left, al
lowing head to drop to right. Hack
slowly to position. Of course nil the
muscles of the face must be complete
ly reli xed. New York Commercial Ad
vertiser. ' ' '
Tiie Utile Wnmnn.
Rumor has It that once ngaln the
small woman is to be the "fashion."
It Is so long since ihe time when the
petite was not rather n stignin than
otherwise that the really small people
of my .equuinlnnce find it is anything
but an easy matter to believe that n
"good time" Is really coming to them.
Time was when the fashionable novel
ists of the day created heroines who
were nil falry-ljke beings with in
Ilnltcslinal waists and impossible bands
and feet; nnd long before their day
the poet Suckling had Immortalized
a certain little bride fashioned on n
miniature plan which greatly tarn
meiuied itself to him.
Hut the reign of the "daughter of tho
gods, divinely tall" the girl who can
go round the links twice in the morn
ing, who can play tennis nil the nfter
p.oon, nnd dance nil the evening has
had so long a reign thnt her smaller
sisters had grown quite accustomed
to their eclipse. Terhaps, now that
"little" women nro to be the rage, we
shall enjoy a period of fashions suited
to pet off her style of beauty to tha
best ndvaiitnge. Hitherto the diffi
culty of dressing both becomingly nnd
fashionably If one's height did not
reach the essential fivp feet seven
Inches bus proved a terrible problem,
th" solution of which defied all efforts.
Philadelphia Telegraph.
The Fsthlonable Skirt.
The skirt mnde with yoke is for the
moment extremely fashionable, and
the yoke may be plain, trimmed,
shirred or of different material to the
rest of the gown. A luce yoke no
shaped as to be much narrower nt the
back than in front and made so that
It fits iu with a panel of the same lace,
which covers the front breadth, or
takes its place. Is most effective, but
the shirred yoke lu wide or narrow
cords, as Is the more becoming, Is also
extremely effective. Some of the veil
ing nnd crepe de chine gowns bvve tbe
yoke only at the sides nnd bnck and a
perfectly plain front breadth. Then
below tbe yoke, nt the sides and back,
the skirt is In accordion or wide pleats.
Tbe fashion is thought to make tho
hips look smaller, but It is necessary
to arrange the shirring most carefully,
so there shall not be a particle of ma
terial more than 1 required on tbe
hip and there must always be the
effect of tbe yoke being shorter at tbe
back than In front.
Not particularly new, but alwaya ef
fective, 1 tbe skirt with the band
tucked yoke. In bias effect, and then
below tbe yoke tbe breadtba alternate
ly tucked and plain. Not only 1 tbla
a amart fashion for muallu and thin
material of all kinds, but for taffeta
aud cloth of light weight a well.
Plttsburg Dispatch.
Tfc ConnoiplHi Olrl.
"Many think tho couinionplaco girl
is a social failure, but abe 1 sot."
says an observing woman. "As a rule,
tbe brilliant and unuaual girls receive
more than their right ahare of praise;
but we cannot belp loving tbe common
place girl for tbe nee little part tbe
plav la life. Yet we seldom tell ber
SO. m mtmmmmtmd
"The commonplace girl I mean th
girl who hn nothing noticeably bril
liant in ber Is so apt to underestimate
her worth. You know thnt from time
to time she has come to you for com
fort because she declared she was a
coclnl fallu-e nnd so ordinary nnd
commonplace.
"Why, it in Just these donr, bright,
little commonplace girls thnt make up
the greater pnrt of the world; It is the
commonplace men nnd women who nt
tend to the small but necessary mat
ters thnt go to make up tbe grent sum
totnl of our lives.
"The geniuses are too busy to pay
attention to these small affairs; and,
beside, they are very rare. Men nre
nlwnys struck by the swept simplicity
nnd nbsenee of vnnlty In the common
place girl, nnd, as a general rule, she
Is the girl who enptivntes their hearts."
Brooklyn Eagle.
Appropriate Ureal.
One of tho grent drawbacks to
woman's feeling comfortuble lu general
society Is found in her dress. For a
man the path Is straight. His eveulng
dres U practically the snnw for all
occuslons. It is only when he wanders
from the conventional nnd indulges In
such enormities ns n four-ln-hand with
n dress suit thnt he makes fatal Mun
ders.
With n womnn the ense Is different.
Slip does not always know how she
ought to drpss. If slip goes to n dinner
nnd wears the only high-necked gowa
in the room she is ns uncomfortable
ns she would lip If she went to an even
Ing party in n low-necked frock and
found every otlier womnn there dressed
to the chin. Because of this. It is safef
for her to find out from some one win
know the ways of the house what will
be the probable dress at a place where
she herself I a stranger. Customs
vary greatly in this regard. I know of
homes where low-cut gowns nre a
regular feature, even nt the family
dinner table, nnd there nre otlier bousps
whare such dressing ns this is nevrt
thought of except for the most impor
tant of evening parties or bnlls. Nets)
York American.
The Henltliy Ilnbr.
A healthy baby is n plump bnhy. A
baby does not "take ofter" anybody
In being thin. A normal baby Is al
ways plump.
Watch the temperature of the nurs
ery. Begin with TZ or even 74 degrees
nnd slowly drop to "0 degrees. IHi no
enervate a child by keeping it In a per
spiration. This alone will produce
cold.
Dash cold water over its chest aftel
Its bath, from the day it is born. Thl&
will strengthen the chest and close the
pores in the skin, thereby preventing
cold.
It is impossible to make a little Spar
tnn of a baby that is not well fed. Anj
neglect in this respect will product
a puny, sickly child thnt will have tc
be watched constantly.
Guard the little stomach with great
care nnd do not experiment with hit
diet, by changing his food or by let
ting hi in eat indigestible things.
Toughen thp outside but never try.
to harden the inside. American Queu
Fad In Hair Ornaments.
The latest decree in coiffure decora
tion is that the ornament shall not
touch the hair. The owner of silvery
So!i!"ii hair enhances the fluffy nureole
effect of her coiffure with soft, lightly
fashioned choux of palest yellow tulle.
Another often noted in social annals,
this time the possessor of "real red
hair." tries bronze red tulle, with an
occasional lar;e black chenille dot,
with fine effect. Yet n third, n woman
whose hair has grown prematurely
gray, wears n delightful "ornament" of
twisted chiffon In tiiree shades of gray,
and a very dark head, the real black,
that Is "ns glossy as a potent leather
hoot," flml.s black gauze ribbon, wltb
a narrow black velvet edge, most suc
cessful when tied lu a wide Alsatiau
bow across tbe head.
Linen belts and gilt harness buckles
are quite u success.
Ivory combs studded with gems nre
especially designed for wear lu white
hair.
The npw Colonial tie has a wide flop
fastening with two buttons, but no
buckle.
Purls seoms daft over lace collar
enpes, cape-shaped boas and large col
lar effects on coats.
Black luce, gauze, chiffon nnd netted
worsted scarf are worn on the bead
for evening wraps.
English pongee coats for driving and
traveling are piped wltb a color and
have removable capes.
The newest long chains have the
stones run through Instead of encasesd
In tho metal of the chain.
The flecked woolen goods to he worn
for deml-siilson street suits will be
trimmed wltb plain-colored cloth.
Coral Is growing rare and costly; the
pale pink bead are choice and arc
shown combined with diamonds.
Sash curtains of scrim have a hem
stitched hem and a border of scrolls
done In cross-stitch with lustra thread.
A few charming toque of luce have
appeared wltb tbe Prince of Walea
tips, three upright, once more In evi
dence. ,
Silk traveling gown have become
populur for many reasons, and they
are unliued, wltb a drop silk petticout
beneath.
Tailored suit plates for fall show
half-length coat, belts, full sleeves,
flaring skirts and stole collars or no
collars whatever.
Change purses of bullion embroidery
ore to be found among the passing
noveltlea; also cbatelaiuea of old-fush-toned
bead and embroidery.
Wrlt bag are growing larger; many
have leather bandies now and sport la
brilliant red, blue aud green shade, as
well aa the more conservative grays,
tans and blacks. ,
Round collars of band-made lace are
back and bring to mlud almilar treas
ure lost to sight decades ago In tbe
deptba of old lace boxes. These re
vivals are to finish collarlesa necks.
Tbe fellow who is contluually try
ing to square himself hain't learned
to knc his uoutti that. - - x
New York City. Long coats make a
feature of advance styles nnd will bo
much worn during the coming season.
This one. designed by May Man ton. Is
well adapted to suiting material and
cloth of lighter weight us well us to
the silks aud pongees of warmer
weather, nnd to both the odd wrap and
the costume. As shown, however, It is
made of black taft'etu stitched with
cortlcelll silk, nnd is trimmed with
handsome buttons nnd held by loops
of silk cord. The long lines of the
pleats are singularly becoming and the
generous sleeves mean comfort ns well
as protection for those of the bodice.
The cont Is made with blouse nnd
skirt portions thnt nre Joined beneath
the belt Botli portions are tucked to
give a box pleated effect, nnd tbe
blouse is fitted by menns of shoulder
and undor-nrni seams. The sleeves nre
tucked to be snug nhove 'the elbows,
but form full puffs below nnd uro
finished with flaring cuffs nt the wrists.
At the neck Is a flat collar.
The quantity of material requlrpd for
the medium size Is six and a half yards
THKEE-QVAhTtB COAT.
SniRRED WAIST AND TUCKED AND SHIRRED SKIRT
twenty-seven Inches wide, or three
yards fifty-four Inches wide.
A Late Model.
Bhlrrings of all sorts nre notable fea
tures of the season aud of tbe latest
models. The smurt May Manton waist,
illustrated In the large drawing, shows
them used In a novel manner, and Is
slnguiurly well adapted to tin? eoft
and pliuble materials in vogue. Tho
original Is made or white silk mull
trimmed with cream guipure lace nnd
Is charming, but the many thin wools
and silks are equnlly suitable as well
as the tine linen and cotton fabrics.
The waist Is made over a smoothly
fitted lining thnt closes nt the centre
front. The fronts nnd the back are
shirred nt the shoulders to give a yoke
effect, and are again gathered at the
waist line. The folds at the bnck
give a tapering effect to the figure,
while the front blouses slightly over
tbe belt. At the centre front is a
shirred vest-like portion that can be
made blgli nnd finished with the col
lar, or cut off at the shirring to form
a square neck. The long sleeve nro
soft and full and are shirred to fit tbe
arms closely above the elbows, but
form puffs at tho wrists. When elbow
length Is desired they can be cut off
and gathered Into bands.
Tbe quantity of material required for
tbe medium size is five and a quarter
yards twenty toue inches wide, four and
a half yards twenty-seven Inches wide,
four aud a balf yarda thirty-two inches
wide, or two and a quarter ynrds forty
four inches wide, wltb three yards of
applique to trim as Illustrated.
Nothing marks tbe season more sure
ly than tbe ahlrrlngs and tucks that
are so abundantly used. The very
smart skirt Illustrated iu the large pic
ture combine the two, aud with them
a full length front thnt add greatly
to its effect. Soft materials shirred are
pretty beyond a doubt, but horizontal
lines tend to entail apparent height.
Tbe skirt consists of a foundation,
tbe front gore, the yoke, tbe shirred
portion and tbe flounce, all joinings
being concealed by the tucks and tbe
birring. Tbe front gore Is laid la
two tuck at each edge that are
stitched list to flounce depth, then fall
free. Both it and tbe flounce are
tucked at tbe lower edge.
Tbe quantity of material required for
the medium else Is eleven aud a balf
yards twenty-one inches wide, ten and
three-quarter yards tweuty-Veo
inches wide, or seven and a half yards
forty-four Inches wide, with balf yard
of til over lace for yoke.
II .
Trimmed With Bin Thistle.
Turple thlstlps beloved by donkeyi
nre most fnmillnr to wayfarers, but
the requisitions of a fashionable mil
liner tnke a different view of natural
history nnd botany. A blue straw
lint Is trimmed wltb bunches of blue
thistles arranged on both sides of the
middle nnd front. A scarf of white
tulle Is twisted loosely nbout the
crown, nnd forms a sort of bed for the
blue thistles to spring from. A green
straw lint with a medium brim has
au Algerian scarf a over-brim trim
ming. This Is of changeable silk
gauze, two shades of green, bluish
nnd yellow green, one of white and
one of blue. A bunch of white thistles
la set nt the left of front.
The New Pendant.
Thp hpart of cut Jet Is the latest
nddltlou to the ladles' chain. Pend-.
nuts nre never long In coming where
ornamental chains nre worn, so it 1?
not thought out of the way to wear a
Jet heart nt least two Inches long
swinging from your two-ynrd neck
chain, whether It be of bpiuls, black
liogwood, which imitated the expens
Ivp teakwood bead chaltrs, or In the
twisted bead chains of cable effect.
The hpart is no prettier n finish than
the tirssel, but then It has the appear
uii 'p of smartiipss, because of Its com
parative novelty. You see heart
shaped pendants of dull-finished Jet,
but they ui'p not nearly so handsome
as the sparkling Whitby Jpt.
The liny of the Flounce.
Flounces nre crowing in fussincss
nnd Importance day by day, especially
where evening exigencies nre con
corned. A charming creation suitable
to n lair debutant was nrrnnged lu
delicate pink chiffon. Its trained skirt
decked with three frou frou flounces
each one whereof wns stitched with
narrow ribbon nnd lnce. The belie
bodice wns finished by a pointed peler
ine of the chiffon, dotted with dlmnnte
and hemmed lncp, nnd bore elbow
sIppvps with handkerchief wing frill?
at their base.
The Fitted Bodice Now.
The return of the fitted bodice is
liPTiilded. Women birve heen trying
to get rid of the pouch pffeci. in bo
dices and coats for some time, and
the autumn nnd winter models show
that they are succeeding.
Womnn's Shirt WaUt.
Variety in shirt wuWts appears to
know no limit. Month by month nnd
week by week new designs appear,
each one seeming more attractive than
thau the last. The Muy Mauton model
Illustrated shows a broad. pleat at tbe
front with tucks at each side, and
also from tho shoulders, that are or
rangod to give a double box pleated
effect, and Is exceedingly becoming
at tbe same time that it is simple. Tbe
original is made of whlt3 cheviot, but
all walstlng muterinls, silk and wool,
a well as linen and cotton are appro
priate. Tbe waist consists of the fitted foun
dotlon. v hlch enn be uhd or omitted
ss preferred, the fronts nnd the buck.
The back Is plain, being smooth J
drawn down in guthers at the walsl
line, but the front Is tucked nt tb
shoulders and gathered at the wahd
line to' pouch slightly over tbe belt
The sleeves are tucked at their upper
nortlon but form full Duffs below tbt
elbows nud are gathered into straight
cuffs at tbo wrists.
Tbe quantity of material required foe
tho medium size Is four aud one-btlf
yards twenty-one Inches wide, four
ailBT WAIST WJTBl BROAD FUAt.
yards twenty-eeveu inches wide, three
and three-fourth yard thirty-two
Inchea wide, or two and ane-fourU
yarda forty-four Inches vide-