1 FIRST WOMAN Story of a Chicago Ciri Who IT wns perhnpi nntural that the dozen or so correspondents, artist and explorers who bad- been dodg ing volcanoes on two Islands for a week should feel that they were the only passengers aboard, and that ev erybody should love them for the dan gers they had passed. There Is no doubt about It, some were a trifle "brash," and there was much talk about eruptions, pillars of steam, mountains of ashes, rivers of mud and cities of ruins. They had not been nbonrd a day, and had not yet got well "shaken down" with the other passen gers. A sunny-faced Ultle woman of gentle speech, with fluffy white billowing all iiboiit her In the light breezes, reclined rent fully In a steamer chair outside lie starboard staterooms of the deck rahln. She listened courteously to the irrson.il experiences of halt n dozen men who bnd Just "been through the ruins of St. Pierre," murmuring from lime to time, "How very Interesting!" It was the Blueuose skipper who Hist yave mo the hint. I thought I saw a wicked gleam In his eye as he over flowed In a Bermuda chair nearby, and bis five feet (elrcumfereiitinlly) of wlnd-lanued seaman quivered all over in silent mirth. "The Joke, O worthy mariner," I quoth, skirting his flunks, "give me the tip. Let me In. Tut me next. I enjoy comedy, and I lack cheerfulness. Wherefore those mirthful body quakes?" "young man." he said, slowly, "some of these boys have gone full steam ahead without looking at the chart or taking soundings. There arc other hookers than the Madinna bumping the sad sen waves. Do you fall over board?" I thought I did. and respectfully withdrew. That afternoon I cast an chor by the deck-chair of the sunny faced woman In white and said gently, but firmly: "I should like very much to know what you saw, and how you felt. In the ruins of the dead St. Pierre." She laughed. "Well, let's go up on the roof of the back porch, as I heard the young man from Indiana call It this morning." And so, on the hurricane deck of the Madlana homeward bouud from Barba does. In the shadow of the cloud crested peaks of the Dominican Moun tains, I heard the story of the first woman to visit the desolation of the burled city at Martinique, and the only woman yet, so far as I know. ' "When the news of the catastrophe reached us at St. Kitts," said the woman In white, "my husband, D: Joseph Ilaven, who represents the United States on that Island. an nounced his intention of going to Mar tinique at the earliest possible oppor tunity. I thereupon announced my In tention to the same effect. He didn't want mo to go, of course, out of course I wont. You know I'm a Chicago girl. We caught the Madinna at Basse Ten e on Wednesday, May 14, and anchored in the harbor of Fort de France ca Friday night. "On Saturday morning we went ashore and wandered through Fort Cp France. "All Saturday showers of line ns!i fell from time to time over the town. They came in gusts, blinding our eyes nnd streaking our facta. I kept up an umbrella most of the time in an effort to shield myself, but the ashes sifted down the back of my neck Just the same. I had used umbrellas for ninny sorts of purposes, but never thought I would use one to protect myself from a storm of allies from a volcano. The houses were covered, nnd the people In the streets looked like ghosts In a fog. The statue of the Empress Jos ephine was completely draped In the ghostly mantle. "We had Intended golns down the coast to St. rierre on Sunday, but the captain of the Cincinnati declared that It was unsafe. I spent the day In visiting the hospitals. "On Monday morning at C o'clock we went aboard a tiny stcamlmat which iJr. Haven had charlercd. There were about half a dozen in the party. "Dark clouds were rolling out of Mont Pelee as we. drew near. We steamed up nnd down the roadstead three or four times, in front of the ruined city. The grim, ghostly desola tion of the scene, as viewed from a distance, was too much, almost, for my mental grasp. There was no detail to seize upon. It was a relief even to look at the menacing outpour of steam and vapor from the volcano. "We went ashore at the extreme southern point of St. I'ierre, where a littlo strenm separated the city from the village of L'Anse, that lay under the slope of Morne d'Orange, on the top of which was the splintered statue of St. Mary the Virgin. The littlo .steamer ran closa In shore, and we Were landed on the beach by a small boat. I bad to Jump, but took the right moment, and got ushore -without a wetting. How was I dressed? Oh, I wore Just ordinary womankind clothes, with a sLort skirt, the 'Italny Dnly' skirt you call It lu New York, and stout boots. "At the first step I slumped In ashes to my boot-tops, and ufter that every thing was ashes. Great, gray-coated walls, that rose In Jagged edges to the first story near where we lauded, they told me were the ruing of the rum dis tilleries. "Wo made our way pa'nfnlly over the ruins, and crossed the ash and mud choked bed of what bad been the little stream that divided St. Pierre from L'Anse. There, on the slope of Morne d'Orange, under the statuo of the Virgin, had been two very fine estates, the homes of Dr. Barbe and M. Leon Marie. Their estates Joined, each having Its handsome, solidly con structed chateau, Its servants' lodges, and Its niaguificent grounds, gardens, walks and driveways. "L'Anse had uot felt the full effect of the blast that came from Pelee on thn morning of May 8. The ash Hue that marked the desolated zone from the zoua of safety ran Just beyond on IN DEAD CITY.I Explored St. Pierre' Ruins. fx the crest of Morne d'Orange. But there was nothing left of life In L'Anse. Chateaux, lodges, walks, and walls were blended lu one gray ruin. The big Iron gates that had opened to the grounds of the Barbo estate lay prone, broken and twisted as by some giant strength. "Just Inside the gates lay a gray, charred form, perhaps the body of a servaut who had got that far In his rush for safety. All around, as we proceeded toward the chateau, lay other gray, charred forms. I couldn't think of them as the shells of those who but a little before had breathed the breath of life. The sight of one dead body may be grewsome, oven horrifying, but in the presence of hun dreds, thousand, of them, the Impres sion Is too general; It Is so much as to benumb the sensation of particular and Individual horror. They seemed to me at the time as so many ashen mounds, 'Tclee's wrath had been frcnkful. Massive stone structures were demol ished, but here before us, a hundred yards or so from the striekeu chateau, was a frail lodge, oue of the Servians' quarters, standing Intact, with not an Inch of the wood of Its shingled roof scorched. My husband pushed open the doer. Into a little room perhaps 12x10. "The single article of furniture In the room was a box-made cot against the fclde of the further -wall, with a little extension running out from the head, like the bnse of an L. On the cot lay a negro woman, in an attitude of sleep. Her face was calm nnd un marked. The white garment she wore was not oven blackened. "A short, black clay pipe hung from her lips, and rested with the bowl ou her breast. "On the table pnrt of the cot stood a half-filled bowl of gruel, with a spoon still In It, a part of a loaf of bread, uud a little tin oil lamp. "Lying on the floor beside the cot were two little children, perhaps throe nnd Ave years of age, the head of one resting ou the breast of another. Their single garments, little slips, were not oven scorched. It was as If they had fallen down while at play and gone to sleep. '-'The mother had evidently had her morning meal and lain down ou the cot to smoke, with the children playing about tho floor. They were not crushed, they were not burned. They must have been killed, sharply nnd suddenly, by some very deadly gas, as quickly and mercifully as by a light ning stroke. "Dr. Barbe's fine chateau we. found In ruins almost complete. Broken walls were standing to the second door, and part of the roof still remained. The in terior was a mass of broken stones and ashes. Dr. Barbe, with bis family und all his servants, perished. "Wo had a mournful mission to tho ruins of the estate of M. Leuu Marie Signor raravacleno, the Italian Consul at Barbadoes, was one of the party, nod he was looking for tho body of his daughter. This young woman, who was one of the most beautiful girls lu Buibadoes, had been at school at the convent on the heights of -Morne Itouge, back of St. Pierre. She was about finishing, and her family, who Idolized her, had been making all sorts of preparations for her homecoming. Her brother had imported a new car riage from England for a coming-out gift, and her father had built a new residence especially in her bono". Plans were In preparation for a grand fete when she came home. "On the day before the disaster the nuns sent her from tho convent to the residence of M. Marie, thinking that. In Its much further distance from the volcano, she would be safer there than at Morne Rouge. The convent was un touched, while every soul In und about M. Marle'g place perished. "The Marie estate was an extensive one. M. Marie e itertulued lavishly, and had a corps of forty servants. On the very eve of the destruction of St. Pierre he had a big house party from the society folk of the city. None of the merry guests who drove through the big carved gateway that night ever went out nga'i. Half a dozen big elegant carriages were found In the courtyard. Under one of them lay tho body of a man. All about the grounds were other bodies, some of them lying ia heaps. They were charred and un recognizable. Bodies of horses, cattle and chickens were strewn about. In the bed of tho little rivulet lay a dozen cattle, with the herdsman's body among them. "The Marie chateau was a heap of stones and ashes, surrounded by Jag ged walls perhaps ten feet high. The Italian consul, with a force of work men, conducted a systematic search for the body of his daughter and re covered it. In addition to other means of Identification, this body was cor soted. Martinique girls do not wear corsets usually, and never lu the morn ing. 'Tassing over the stone bridge over the rivulet, we mad-? our way toward tho city. The road was strewn with bodies. On some of them tho clothing had not beou burned; other bfldles were charred so as to bo uurecognlz able as human forms. In one place we saw the bodies of a man and a horse lying in the roadway before a gate. One of tho mau's legs was thrown partly over tike horse, as If he had been In the act of mounting to flee when both man and steed were overtaken by the deadly breath of the volcano. . "From the ruins of tho city -we saw the Potomac steam in and cutters laden with men put ashore from her'. It was the lauding party coming ashore to rescue the bodies of Mr. Prentls, tho United States consul, and Mr. Jap, the British consul. A few minutes later the big British cruiser Indefatl gable steamed Into tho roadstead and luy to without anchoring. "Mont Pelee began to look threaten ing. Tho clouds, that arose from tli" volcano got denser and blacker, au't-' seemed to be rolling down over ' mountainside toward the city. decided to embark again and put off to our little steamer. "This took some time, nnd the as pect of Peloo momentarily grow more awesome. Suddenly a huger gust than usual surged upward from the crater, and billowed down toward us. The sky grew overenst, crashes of thunder smote our oars, and bright flashes like lightning played through the dense ness that now enveloped the great mountain's flanks. A deluge of rain came suddenly, nnd the air was sharp with a sulphurous odor. "Tho steam whistle of the rofomao began shrieking wildly, nnd we wore near enough to see her enst off her linos from the landing buoy. The cap tain of our steamboat had lost his entire family at St. Pierre. With an exclamation that not all the riches of the world could tempt him to stay a moment longer cear tho accursed spot, ho beaded full speed seaward. "For a moment or two the Potomne bended away from the shore. We had been lying very close to her nnd could see all thnt went on nboard. Then a big fellow rushed on deck, Jumped to the pilot house, there was a clanging of bells, nnd tho little tug began to swing her nose shoreward agiiln. "At that Instant tb siren of the In defatigable omitted the most blood curdling shriek I have over heard, or ever hope to hear. I nearly Jumped overboard. Then tb? big warship dashed for the open sea. It was for all tho world like tho flight of a gront Hi Ing monster suddenly nnd badly wounded the siren cry of pain, and the precipitate rush for safety. "Then, the grandest sight of nil thnt made my patriotic soul forgot for n moment our terrible peril. The blnoic pnll bnd come down so that we couldn't see the city. "Right Into tho Inky wave of black ness, this Stygian pit, plunged the little Potomac, like an Intrepid soul charging nlnne nil the forces of sheol Ono Instant we saw her silhouetted ngainst the velvet wall, the neJt she was swallowed up In Its awful gloom. It was full speed ahead, not away from the peril for the Potomac, but Into the face of it. Her commander nnd other officers nnd men of tlie United Stntes Navy were ashore in th path of the volcano's fury, nnd the littlo Potomac know her duty. "Hot ashes shrouded the docks of our little steamboat before we got Into the sunlight ngnln." New Y'ork Sun. Th lrop of n Penny, Have you ever noticed the Interest that money attracts, even If it Is only a single cent? The next time that you see a copper coin dropped lu a street car Just obsorve. Every eye In the car will turn to the spot where it dropped, and there will be manifested a real general concern over Its' recov ery. Two or three bends are likely to come in contact over the point of its disappearance, uud then their owners will draw suddenly back nud try to appear unconcerned; but lu another second they are again leaning for ward. The man who dropped tho cent Is usually the first who appears to hnve brushed memory of the trivial occur rence aside, but Just us soon ns the eyes in the car have turned from bin) his own are sure to go back to the floor In tho hope that the truant coin will be seen. When bo has gone there Is a re newed interest among the passengers, for the stage of "Anders keepers" has arrived, and those near the spot of disappearance become quite diligent until they life nware they make a centre of attraction. But Interest in that little coin is not lost while there Is a passenger left, and when flit car Is empty the conductor takes his virn and resunvets the cent. Chicago Trl buue. Terrier With GUn f.ye. The owm.i'8 of the prize Boston ter rler. Uoland, who caught the distent" per lust year and lost the use of an eye, buve seut to New York for a glass eye, on the advlco of vetefl. mirluns who believe It will Improvo tlie appearance of the animal for ex hibition purposes. It is believed that this Is the first attempt ever made to give a glass eye to a nog, nud the outcome Is awaited with Interest. Uoland weighs eighteen pounds, has n three-quarters length fail, and Is al most perfectly marked lu brludle and white. He is u brother of Itoxle, on-.' of the finest terriers In the country. In 18!i8 Itoland won a reserved prize In tho novice class at Bralntree; the sauw year he won first prize in tho novice clnss at the pet dog show lu New York. January. 1S09, at Providence, he won second in limit class, also third in limit class at Boston terrier show. The same year ho won a reserved prize lu limit class and third lu oik'U class at Boston dog show. At Providence the same year he was first In limit class and reserved in winner's class. Last year he won first in limit class at 11 ivldence and re. served In limit class In New York. New York Herald. ftjrlen Asphalt. Asphalt is found in the provinces of Syria ou the banks of the Dead Sea, flouting on the surface of Its wuters. Through the action of earthquakes the asphalt has been tort) from the bottom of the sea and driven toward the shores, especially to the eust. The nar ratives of the Oreek and Human his toilan to the effect that asphalt ui small Islands was upheld by the salt water and driven over the surface of tho sen are without doubt true. This asphalt, and generally the oriental oi Egyptian, Is pure and expensive, and used principally lu the manufacture of a certain kind of varnish, but foi general purposes, owing to Us brittle, ness as well, is useless In the asphalt Industry. American Asphalt Journal. Children nnd Ruhool. It Is curious the difference la tb regard children have for their school and school work. When a fire started in the Warren street school a little girl went sobbing down the street, with Mtiviiiiilug eyes, because sin feared hor school was to be destroyed, V moment later a boy came tearing lown the street ou bis wheel working shouting, "Hurrah, kids, . ou tire!" Toledo ANIMALS' SUMMER GARB WHEN FURRED AND FEATHERED CREATURES CHANCE ATTIRE. Soma Drees In Accortlnnr. With Their Age Cotmn Depends on Cllmnte Thick Wrnne of Winter (lire Wny to something Cooler, It seems almost a pity that It did not occur to Horr Teufelsdrockh. when he , enriched the empire of thought by his famous "Philosophy of Clothes," to add a few remarks on the summer garb of animals; for In the reasons which lend so many furred and feath ered creatures to change their attire once at least lu every year the learned professor might have found ample ma terial for deep musing. Many of these animals, of course, merely moult, throwing off the old coat for no other purpose than to put ou a new one. In some cases they do It by degrees, as every one knows who l.ns enjoyed a ride In a dog cart behind a white pony. In others the change Is more rapid. Witness tho nntiunl peel ing of sheep which are never shorn. But no matter how long the toilet tuny last in such cases, the fashion never varies. Other creatures dress In accordance with their age. They seem to hold strongly thnt costumes suited to Juve niles are out of place lu the case of ndults. So lion cubs are brindled like tabby cats, nnd cygnets are clothed In smoky-gray Instead of In white. Cer tain sea birds are even more particu lar, for their young are called upon to wear four successive changes of rai ment, equally different from ono an other nnd from the plumage which de notes maturity. This last plan must be a great convenience, to parents who find it dlfllcult to remember the ages of their offspring. They have only to glauce at tho feathers of the little ones lu order to know. Far more frequently, however, the summer change of costume depends upon climate. The thick wraps of win ter have to give way to something cooler and lighter; so the ermine, to wards the middle of spring, Is meta morphosed Into a stoat, and remains n stout until the latter part of autumn. It Is bard to realize that the costly fur which marks the Judicial dignity, which peers of high degree are proud to wear has been stripped from an animal Included by every gamekeeper in his list of "vermin." Yet such Is lu truth the case. In northern countries, where the temperature for months together Is a minus quantity, they become yellow in autumn aud perfectly white a few weeks later, the mnzzle and tip of the tall alone excepted, while In spring nnd early summer they puss ngaln through yellow back Into reddish brown. Arctic foxes follow their example partly, perhaps, for the sake of warmth, dark clothes being better con ductors of heat than light ones of the same thickness aud qualify, lu winter they are us white as the driven snow Itself, but In summer they become gray, or brown, or smoky blue, accord ing to their individual Idiosyncrasies. Nansen tells us in his "Farthest North" that the Arctic foxes were at times the plague of bis life, not only Invading bis camp by night uud carrying off every particle of food which they could find, but repeatedly stealing his ther mometers. The reason tor this larcen ous behavior battled the great ex plorer altogether; he could not under stand what foxes could possibly want with scientific Instruments. But their annual change of attire may explain it. No doubt the animals in question are keenly interested In the variations of temperature, and anxious above all things to know when It is time to think about putting ou their summer cloth ing; and, of course, a thermometer would be a guide. Among the birds the most notable change of plumage for climatic rea sons is that of the ptarmigan. No one looking for the first time npou n ptarmigan in its summer costume, side by side with another In Its winter dress, would dream that the two birds were Identical. One Is ashy gray, mottled nud marbled with chestnut and black, the other Is perfectly white. The reason Is that ptarmigans lu sum mer have to crouch among rocks whic h are covered with mosses and lichens, while in winter they sit upon snow, nud nature dresses them to suit their surroundings. The resemblance In each case is exact. 'You might stare Bti-alght at a pturuiigau lu wuuiluer from a dozen yards away and be ut ttrly unable to distinguish It from the rocks, while lu winter yuu would be equally unable to discern it upon the snow. And at tho same time the bird ia the satisfaction of being clothed I:i accordance with the thermometer. The olack headed gull, too, Is black beaded only lu summer All through :o rest of the year its head nud neck .e as white as the rest of Its body, ho change takes place Just about the itne the birds desert the seashore lor the great inland marshes in which they breed; and the odd thing Is that uo sort of moult is involved. The feathers slowly darken until they become al most black, and black they remain till the summer Is over; then the dark hue gradually fades aud in about a fort night's time the birds are entirely white once more. But a far mure common reason for the summer chauge of clothing is the desire to look well lu the eyes of the opposite sex. This donlre la practically restricted to the mules, wbonouopolizo till beuuty and color of form, aud whose great Idea of winning tho af fections of their soberly tinted mates Is to strut In brave array before them. The palm In this respect is borue away by tho ruff, Inning the autumn, the wiuler aud the first two or three weeks of spring this bird is one of the most luslgnillcunt of the feathered race. But no sooner does Us fancy lightly turn to thoughts or love Ihnu it dons a special costume lu which to go a-courting. Its bill becomes orange yellow, Instead of brown; the whole of its plumage seems to brighten. A tuft of loug feathers grows on either side of the neck, and the throat Is swathed in a mass of douse plumes, which are always gay of hue, but are differently colored in every Individual. Theu the bird parades slowly up and down bo fore tho particular lady ou whom his affections are get. Other gallants. equally desirous to please, do tho sa'nr, and the nntural result is a row. Day after day ruffs moot by dozens to fight, while the reeves look calmly on. Plumes are torn nnd feathers fly, fill half the combatants, perhaps; own themselves worsted. Then ttie gentle beings for whose sweet saki the battle IThs boon waged bestow the 'selves up on the conquerors, and it" and reeve go happily off together t.i enter upon the Joys of matrimony. Mallards adopt slmll'" tactics bar the fighting when they feel the pangs of the tender passion coming on. but can scarcely be snld to play falriy; for no sooner has their gayety ol plumage had tho desired effect and won for them partners of their Joys nnd sorrows than '.hoy throw off their brilliant garb and appear In the sombre plumage of their nintps. Ono cannot but feel sorry for the ducks, who choose their suitors purely for tiiolt good looks, only to find Immediately that their beauty Is not oven skiu deep. The Itev. Theodore Wood. Nat uralist. In i lip New York American aud Journal. CURIOUS FACTS. Tho largest coral reef In tho world Is the Australian Barrier reef, which Is 1100 miles in length. In Japan archers test their arrow:! by balancing them on the nnils of ihe second nnd third fingers of the left bun 1 and rapidly twirling them by the feathered end with the fingers of the right hand. If the arrow makes a whirling sound It is crooked and must be straightened. An old English law provides that In default of payment of certain taxes by flic church tho rector shall be put In the stocks. The other day tho rector of Corby, In Lincolnshire, In order to save his church the payment of this tax, voluntarily submitted to sit with his legs In the stocks, while a crowd of of ficials nnd oilier parishioners witnessed the singular ordeal. A remarkable dlsovcry linn been made at (Jirgeh. In Upper Egypt, in the unearthing of human remains at lctist 8000 years old. These represent the most ancient of prehistoric periods, and Dr. Elliot Smith, of the Medical School at Cairo, lias gone there to Investigate the remains. Tho remains nre In a remarkable state of preservation, due, perhaps, both to the dryness of the cli mate nnd the excellence of the em balming. It Is said that In severs! cases tho eyes are so well preserved that the lenses are Intact. A curious discovery has Just been made by Mr. Fuller, of Y'ately. Hamp shire, Into whose possession there re cently passed a richly embroidered tablet, representing King Charles II. nnd Queen Catherine, Neatly concealed in the back of the tablet he found the parchment will of Thomas Hodgklns. a London merchant. The document Is dated April 14. 1048. and Is now In pos. session of a vicar of Ridge, Hertford shire. It is believed that it will lead to the discovery of an accumulated sum of many thousands of pounds for the poor of that parish. In whose favor the will is made. During the tour of tho Now South Wales Minister of Lauds along the drouth-stricken region of the Darling Biver ho had to pass under an extra ordinary triumphal arch, which had been erected at n station called Darling Hotel. The arch was composed of the skulls of bullocks, tho horns of cows, sheep aud rams, together with the hoofs, ribs and bones of these animals, while It was surmounted by the skulls of a bullock and a goat. The legend, "King Drouth," had a prominent po sition ou the arch, which was meant as a practical illustration of the terrible effects produced by the lack of rain. An Oht Huat Kzcamtrnt at St. I.ouli. In excavating on tho site of t ho World's Fair in St. Louis, workmen have discovered uu old bont. which must have been burled theie many years. It is built of zinc and copper from stem to steru. with only here nnd there a fragment of wood. It has a length of some twenty feet, n depth of perhaps five foot, nnd a width of sK feet. , That It could ever have been used ou the Ulver des Peres, excepting in seasons of high water, is thought ' Impossible. It has the appearance of having lie n made for use ou the sea, and is ko large uud heavy that if can not be readily associated with the neighborhood in which it now lies. It has been entirely buried, with the ex ception of a few inclK's of tlu bow, which rose higher than any otlior point. Its grave was on a lilnh bank close to u bend ill the Ulver des Peres. Work men finding the bow 'projecting from the ground, had their curios'ty moused, and culled the intention of Cli'ef of Construction Isaac S. Taylor to their discovery. lie luvestigat k. nnd had u detail put to work unearthing the craft. No oue can offer any sugges tion as to the history of tlv craft. The ground about It Man packed, and had uo indication of having-b;en disturbed for many years. The iiii.i,,.' of the craft, which had evidently been stumped lu the metal side, has been cut out. The bottom, U3iir the bow, has been stove lu by gone; cause, and was evidently the att chaptev lu tuu history of the boat. lut-loriia UUouae. Ia the discussion ut the recent con gross of surgeons lu Berlin on the 'li t aid to the wounded on the battlefield It was brought out by Burns, B.irlels ii i n n a and oiliers that the danger in modern warfare is not so much from primary Inflection by the suiall-callber ptojectile of rapid-fire rilleg as from secondary Infection by contamination of the wouud from the clothing or the dust of the battlefield. The effect of the field surgeon is, therefore, more to ex clude septic aud tetanus germs than to disinfect the wouud. But to come nearer home, the duuger ol (lust Is em phasized by the report that New York City hag over 450 street sweepers ou the sick list with diseases due to the Inhalation uf Infectious dust. A num ber of Itilectious are so coinmtnly conveyed lu dust as to merit the desig nation of "dust discuses." Of tucso cercbro-spinal meningitis1 ia of frequent occurrence lu ei'.ies during the gprlug mouths. -American Medlclno- ., New York City. There are almost as nany styles of Gibson waists In the lew assortment of blouses as the regu ntlon shirt waists, these broad-shoul- .lereil effects belllif vel'V nonllllir nt present. They nre worn by stout nud slender women nllko, but are far more becoming to the bitter. Heavy wash fabrics are usually employed for their levelopment lu order to keep the pleats In shape ncross the shoulders. In the blouse Illustrated heavy grcon madras Is used, the collar and cuffs being embroidered lu black silk. Two deep pleats extend from shoul Jer to belt back nnd front. They form a V lu the bnck. The fronts close In double-breasted style, the right side fastening on the left with small cut Jot mittons. a piain embroidered collar completes the neck. It Is trimmed with n lace protector. The bishop sleeves nre shaped with Inside seams only. They fit the upper arm closely nnd nre quite full nt the lower edge. The narrow waistband Is finished with n flaring cuff. WniQta lii thta mode fire made of nor- cale, madras, pique, linen or duck. The . MISSES' ritOM style is also appropriate for taffeta, noire, French flannel or penu de crepe. To ninke the blouse In the medium size will require two and one-quarter yards of forty-Inch material. An Attractive Coatnme. White batiste, embroidered In marine blue polka dots, is used for this attrac tive costume, with blue satin nud ecru lace fot trimming. The yalst Is made over a glove-flttet, feather-boned lining thnt closes In the centre front. The bastlste Is drawn smoothly across the shoulders lu the buck, aud displays slight gathers at the waist. The skirt Is shaped with frvo well proportioned gores fitted smoothly around the waist nnd over the hips without darts. The closing Is made In visible at the ceutre buck under two inverted pleats that are flatly pressed, aud present a perfectly plalu appear ance. The front plastron of lace is perma nently attached to the right lining, und closes invisibly ou the left. It Is com pleted with a plain collar. The sailor collar Is square in tho back nnd tlulshes the edges of the plastron In front. It Is trimmed with u broad band of blue. The full fronts ure gathered and ar ranged ut the lower edge of the plas tron, forming a stylish blouse over the belt. This rastens nt tho left side un der a rosette with long ends. Inside seams fit the sleeves to the upper arm. They flare at the lower edge over full puffs thut are arranged .on narrow bands. The flounces ure of circular shaplug, but slightly full at the top, where they are gathered and arruuged on the skirt. A broad bund of blue41u!sheg the up per edge, und lnco Is applied ou the hems. They are narrow lu front, nud grad uate toward the bnck, providing u smart sweep to the tower edge of the skirt. Dresses In this mode are made of linen, pique, madras or cotton cheviot for summer weur. It Is nlso an appro priate mode for satin, foulard, I ml la silk, crei do chtnc, nun's, veiling or til-batross. ' ladies' fanct ainsor w.ouse. To make tho waist for a miss fow teen years will require one and on quarter yards of forty-four-inch mnbu rial, with one-half yard of contrasting material for puff and plastron. Attmlrnhle Inrtln Linen. There are some of the loveliest sltlrt waist suits In India linen, which art delightfully sheer nnd cool. Many ol them are far from being plain, too. In many cases oven elbow sleeves figure, which, of course, takes them out o( the regulation shirt waist clnss. 0n pretty nffnlr hns n blouse In nll-ovet pin tucks. A smart little hemstitched tie, with stock to match. Is the finish Pin mnrks In clusters of five accent ench of the nine skirt gores, with twn rows of hemstitching In addition. F.m broidery square nrp let In nt the flounce top. the same figuring on tin blouse nt the bust line. A White f-hlfrnn C'ollnr. A deep collar of white chiffon fin Ishcd with several rutlles of the snnif material hns over tho upper plain pnrt a basket work of narrow black velvet ribbons, and set Into the long chiffon ends Is nn Insertion of the narrow vel vet In crosses nnd making a wide open, work band. A New Illume. The Tuxedo blouse Is new. It Is cut lew nt the front to show nn expanse olt shirt front nnd a prim collar and tie The- narrow flat rovers round widest! at the bust nnd narrow to a point. w lint For loU. The new hat for golf nnd outing Is a I wlde-brlmnied Bajutn straw trimmed j with a long striped senrf. Tlalnlr Shirt WWt. This dainty shirt wnlst Is made otj pongee embroidered lu pale blue spots. I Tho black velvet collar Is trimmed! with a blue chiffon stock and cravat. The wnlst Is mounted on a glove-1 fitted feather-boned lining that closeij ENADE COSTUME. In the centre front. This- may fci omitted. The bnck Is drawn smoothl; across ihe shoulders und displays gllgl) fulness ut the waist arranged lu tinjj pleats. The fronts arc gathered nt the necll nnd blouse prettily over the black veil vet belt. They close Invisibly undc: the ceutre box pleat. The pluiu collar! fastens nt the back. The sleeves are made In one piece! gathered nt the shoulders and nt tltd elbow, where they are completed Witt! flaring, pointed cuffs embroidered lij blue. Waists In this style ure n docldol chauge from tho severe tailor-mad! models and the short sleeves give then. au ulry, summery appearance that I'S very acceptable nt this season of ttiJ year. Flue wash fabrics in white aui'j pale shades of blue, pluk, violet, yelt low nud grceu are used for waists l; this mode. lu some the collar, cuAJ nud box pleat ure embroidered, Willi! SHIRT WAIST WITH El.noW BLUEVES. ! the rest of tho waist la plain, Squartj and motifs of lace are often Insert" across the front nud ou the tops sleeves , I To make tho waist In tho medlu'1! size will require oue nnd threo-quutu yards ot thlrty alx-lucb material. ,