THE PRESIDENT'S. MESSAGE,
Recommendations 1o Congress Concern
ing Needed Legislation.
WORK OF DEPARTMENTS REVIEWED.
President Roosevelt l"ays (ilomlug Tribute to
the Lite Pre idem McKlnley federal
Courts Should Be Given Jursilcllod Over
Any Man Who kills or Attempts to Kill the
President Peace and Prosperity Wage
Worker nod Farmer Industr.al Develop
ment and the Trusts Insular Possessions
Civil Service Low Peace With All the
Nations.
Following is the first annual message,
in part, of President Roosevelt to the
Congress of the United States:
To the Senate and House of Represen
tatives :
The Congress assembles this year un
der a shadow of a groat calamity. On
the sixth of September. President Me
Kinlcy was shot by an anarchist while
attending the Fan-American Exposi
tion at Iltiffalo. and died in that city
on the fourteenth of thai month.
Of the last seven elected Presidents,
lie is the eliird who has been murder
ed, and the bare recital of this f.ict is
sufficient to justify grave alarm among
all loval Aemricans citizens. Moreover,
tue circumstances of this, the third as-
sassination of an American President;
have a peculiarly sinister significance. I
Both President Lincoln and President
Garfield were killed by assassins of
types unfortunately not uncommon in
history: President Lincoln falling the
victim to the terrible passions aroused '
by four years of civil war. and Prcsi- .
dent Garfield to the revengeful vanity
of a disappointed i'iiee-secker. Presi- ,
dent McKinlcy was killed by an utterly
depraved criminal belonging to that
body of criminals who object to all gov
ernments, good and bad alike, who are
against any form of popular liberty if
it is guaranteed by even the most just
and liberal laws, and who are as hos- 1
tile to the upright exponent of a free
people's sober will as to the tyrannical
and irresponsible despot. j
The anarchist, anil especially the an- !
archist in the United States, is merely !
one type of criminal, more dangerous j
than any other because he represents i
the same depravity in a greater degree,
The man who advocates anarchy direct
ly or indirectly, in any shape or fash-
ion. or the man who apologizes for an- '
archists and their deeds, makes him- j
self morallv accessory to murder before
the fact. ' !
I earnestly recommend to the Con- i
gress that in the exercise of its wise
discretion it should take into consid
eration the coning to this country of
anarchists or persons professing prin
ciples hostile to ail governments and jus- 1
tying the murder ol those placed in
authority. Such individuals as those
who were not long ago gathered in open ,
meeting to glorify the murder of King ,
Humbert of Italy perpetrate a crime. '
and the law should ensure their rigor
ous punishment. They and those like ;
them should be kept out of this country;
and if found here they should be prompt- i
ly deported to the country whence they
came ; and far-reaching provision should
be made for the punishment of those !
who stay. No matter calls more ur
gently for the wisest thought of the i
Congress. j
The Federal courts should be given j
jurisdiction over any man who kills or
attempts to kill the President or any '
man who by the Constitution or by .
laws is in line of succession for the 1
Presidency, while the punishment for !
an unsuccessful attempt should be pro
portioned to the eti'.rmity of the of- j
fence against our institutions. '
Abounding Prosperity j
During the last five years business
confidence has been restored, and the
Nation is to be congratulated because
of its present ab. ninding prosperity.
Such prosperity can inner be created
by law alone, although ii is easy enough
to destroy it by mischievous laws. If
the hand of the Lord is heavy upon
any country, if tlnxl or drouth come-,
human wisd nr. is powerless to acrt
the calamity. Moreover, no law can
guard us r.gaii:-t the conseruenses of ,
our own folly. The nun who are idle
or credulous, the men who seek gains
not by genuine work with head or hand .
but by gambling in any form, are al
ways a source of menace not only to
them-elves hut to others. If the bn-i- '
ness world Iom--, its head, it loses what
legislation cannot supply. Fundamen
tally the welfare of each citien, and .
therefore the welfare of the aggregate
of citizens which makes ihe Nation,
must rest upon individual thrift and
energy, resolution and intelligence. Noth
ing can take the place of this individ
ual capacity; but wise legislation and
honest and intelligent admhiistratio.i ;
can give it the fullest scope, the largest
opportunity to work to good effect. i
Trusts. J
The tremendous and highly complex j
industrial development which went on ,
with ever accelerated rapidity during !
the latter half of the nineteenth cen
tury brings us face to face, at the be- 1
ginning of the twentieth, with very
serious social problems. The old laws,
and the old customs which had almost :
the binding force of law, were once
quite sufficient to regulate the aconmu- '
lation and distribution of wealth. Since j
the industrial change, which have so i
enormously increased the productive
power of mankind, they are no longer
kiillicient.
The growth of cities has gone on be
yond comparison faster than the growth
of the country, and the upbuilding
of the great industrial centers has !
meant a startling increase, not merely
in the aggregate of wealth, but in the !
number of very large individual, and
especially of very large corporate, for
tunes. The creation of these great cor
porate fortunes, lias not been due to
the taritf nor to any other governmental I
action, but to natural causes in the
business world. oerating in other I
countries as they operate in our own.
'1 he first essential in determining how '
to deal with the great industrial combi
nations is knowledge of the facts pub- '
,)icity. In the inteiest of the public, the
Government should have the right to in- I
spect and examine the workings of the
great corporations engaged in interstate i
busings. Publicity is the only sure rem-
cdy which we can invoke. What further i
-.., ...i;.. i. ..i ;.. ,i,.
iiiin.u.ki civ iiumu in iiiv ay vi
crumental regulation, or taxation, can
only be determined after publicity has
been obtained, by process of law. and in
the course of administration. The first
requisite is knowledge, full and com
plete knowledge which may be made
public to the world.
Artificial bodies, such as corporations
and joint stock or other associations,
depending upon any statutory law for
their existence or privileges, should be
subject to proper governmental super
vision, and full and accurate informa
tion as to their operations should be
made public regularly tit reasonable intervals.
The large corporations, commonly
called trusts, though organized in one
State, always do business in many
States, often doing very little business
in the State where they are incorpor
ated. There is utter lack of uniformity
in the State laws about them: and as
no State has any exclusive interest in
or power over their acts, it has in prac
tice proved impossible to get adequate
regulation through State action. There
fore, in the interest of the whole peo
ple, the Nation should, without inter
fering with the power of the States in
the matter itself, also assume power of
supervision and regulation over all cor
porations doing an interstate business.
This is especially true where the cor
poration deives a portion of its wealth
from the existence of some monopo
listic element or tendency in its busi
ness. There would be no hardship in
such supervision; banks arc subject to
it, and in their case it is now accepted
as a simple matter of course.
There should be created a Cabinet
officer, to be known as Secretary of
Commerce and Industries, as provided
in the bill introduced at the last ses
sion of the Congress. It should be his
province to deal with commerce in its
broadest sense; including among many
other things whatever concerns labor
and all matters affecting the great
business corporations and our merchant
marine.
The Parmer anj Wage-Worker.
With the sole exemption of the farm
ing interest, no ore matter is of such
vital moment
to p- r w hole people as
the welfare of
t' e wage-workers. If
the farmer and thi
wage-worker are
well off, it is abseil'
others will be well
fore a matter for I
that on the whole
day in the I'nitcd
fore in our history.
tely certain that all
iT. loo. It is there
arty congratulation
, ages are higher to
tates than ever be- S
anil far higher than
.-. The standard of i
in any oilier cour.tr
livinir is :iKis Iiit'lirr lli.-nl ever hefonv I
Kvery effort of legislator and admiuis- j
trator should be bent to secure the j
permanency of this condition of things '
and its improvement wherever pos- j
sible. Not only must our labor be pro-
tectcd by the tarilY. but it should also ;
be protected so far as it is possible ;
from the presence in this country of
any laborers brought over by contract, j
or of those who. coming freely, yet rep
resent a standard ot living, so depressed ,
that they can undersell our men in the j
labor market and drag them to a lower j
level. I regard if as necessary, with
this end in view, to re-enact immedi
ately the law excluding Chinese labor- :
crs and to strengthen it wherever nee- !
cssary in order to make its enforce- j
n'.er.t entirely effective.
Our present immigration laws are ,
unsatisfactory. We need every honest I
and efficient immigrant fitted to be- !
come an American citizen, every im- j
migrant who comes here to stay, who
brings here a strong body, a stout I
heart, a good head, and a resolute pur- j
pose to do his duty well in every way, 1
and to bring up his children as law- i
abiding anil God-fearing members of j
the community. But there should be '
a comprehensive' law enacted with the '
object of working a threefold improve
ment over our present system. First,
we should aim to exclude absolutely i
not only all persons who are known to j
be believers in anarchistic principles j
or members of anarchistic societies. '
but also all persons who are of a low
moral tendency or of unsavory reputa- ,
tion. This means that we should re- j
quire a more thorough system of in
spection abroad and a more rigid system !
of examination at our immigration
ports, the former being especially neces- I
sary.
The. second object of a proper immi- j
gration law ought to be to secure by a
careful and not merely perfunctory ed
ucation test some intelligent capacity I
to appreciate American institutions I
and act sanely as American citizens. ;
This would not keep out all anarchists, !
for many of them belong to the intel- j
ligent criminal class. Put it would do
what is also in point, that is, lend to
decrease the sum of ignorance, so po- j
tent in producing the envy, suspicion, 1
malignant passion and hatred of order j
out of which anarchistic sentiment in-
citable springs. Finally, all persons I
-houid be excln led who are below a
certain standard of economic litne-s to
enter our industrial field as competi- '
tors with American labor. There should '
be proper proof of per-oiial capacity to
earn an American living and enough
niorey to insur" a dec-nl start under
American conditions. This v.-oiid stop
the intliix of cheap labor, and the re- !
suiting competition which gives rise
to so much of bitternes in American
industrial lite.
Both the educational and eononiic
le-ts in a wise immigration law should
be designed to protect and elevate the
general body politic and social. A very
close supervision should be exercised i
over the steamship companies which
mainly bring over the -immigrants, and
they should be held to a strict account- j
ability for any infraction of the law. j
Present Tariff System.
There is general acquiescence in our j
present taritf system as a national pol- i
icy. The first requisite to our prosper- !
ity is the continuity and stability of '
this economic policy. Nothing could be
more unwise than to disturb the busi- ,
ness interests of the country by any !
general tariff change at this time, i
lioubt. apprehension, uncertainty are
exactly what we most wish to avoid in
the interest of our commercial and ma
tera! well-being. Our experience in the
past has shown that sweeping revisions j
of the traiff are apt to produce condi
tions closely approaching panic in the ;
business world. Vet it is not only pos- j
sible. but eminently desirable, to com
bine with the stability of our economic '
system a supplementary system of re- i
ciprocal benefit and obligation with !
other nations. Such reciprocity is an j
incident and result of the linn estab
lishment and preservation of our pres
ent economic policy. It was especially
provided for in the present tariff law.
Reciprocity must be treated as the
handmaiden of protection. Our first
duty is to see that the protection grant
ed by the tariff in every case where
it is needed is maintained, and that
reciprocity be sought for far as it
can safely be done without injury I
our home industries. Just how far lh. ;
is, must be determined according to the
individual case, remembering always
that every application of our tariff pol.
icy to meet our shifting national needs
must be conditional upon the cardinal
fact that the duties must never be re
duced below the point that will cover
the difference between the labor cost
here and abroad. The well-being of the
wage-worker is a prime consideration
of our entire policy of eronomicc legis
lation. Subject to (his proviso of ihe proper
protection necessary to our industrial
well-being at home, the principal of
reciprocity nuist command our hearty
support. The phenomenal growth of ex
port trade emphasizes the urgency of
the need for wider markets and for a
liberal policy in dealing with foreign
nations. Whatever is merely petty and
vexatious in the way of trade rtstric-
I
tions should be avoided. The customers
to whom w dispose of our surplus pro
ducts in the long run, directly or indi
rectly, purchase those surplus products
by giving us something in return.
Their ability to purchase our products
should as far as possible, be secured
by so arranging our tariff as to enable
us to take from them those products
which we can use without harm to our
own industries and labor, or the use of
which will be of marked benefit to us.
I ask the attention of the Senate to
the reciprocity treaties laid before it
by my predecessor.
American Merchant Marine.
The condition of the American mer
chant marine is such as to call for im
mediate remedial action by the Con
gress. It is discreditable to us as aNation
that our merchant marine should be ut
terly insignificant in comparison to that
of other nations which we overtop in
other forms of business. We should not
longer submit to conditions under
which only a trilling portion of our great
commerce is carried on our own ships.
To remedy this state of things would
not merely serve to build up our ship
ping interests, but it would also result
in benefit to all who are interested in
the permanent establishment of a wider
market for American products, and
would provide an auxiliary force for the
Navy.
Our Government should take such
action as will remedy these inequali
ties. The American merchant marine
should bo restored to the ocean.
The Gold Standard.
'The Act of March M. lwo, intended
unequivocally to establish gold as the
standard money and to maintain at a
parity therewith all forms of money
medium in use with us, has bcea shown
to be timely and judicious. The price
of our Government bonds in the world's
market, when compared with the price
of similar obligations issued by other
nations, is a flattering tribute to our
public credit. This condition it is evi
dently desirable to maintain.
In many respects the National Bank
ing Law furnishes sufficient liberty for
the proper exercise of the anking
function; but there seems to be need
of better safeguards against the derang
ing influence of commercial crisis and fi
nancial panics.
Internal Taxes.
'The collections from duties on im
ports and internal taxes continue to
exceed the ordinary expenditure of
the Government, thanks mainly to the
reduced army expenditures. The ut
most care should be taken not to re
duce the revenues so that there will be
any possibility of a deficit ; but. after
providing against any such contingen
cy, means should be adopted which
will bring the revenues more nearly
within the limit of our actual needs. In
his report to the Congress the Secre
tary of the Treasury considers all these
questions at length, and I ask your at
tention to the report and recommenda
tions. Strict Economy.
I call strict attention to the need of
strict economy in expenditures. The fact
that our national needs forbid usto be
niggardly in providing whatever is' actu
ally necessary to our well-being, .should
make us doubly careful to husband our
national resources, as each of us hus
bands his private resources by scrupulous
avoidance of anything like reckless or
wasteful expenditure.
Agricu'tural Department.
The Department of Agriculture dur
ing the past fifteen years has steadily
broadened its work on economic lines,
and has accomplished results of real
value in upbuilding domestic and for
eign trade. It has gone into new fields,
until it is now in touch with all sections
of our country, and with two of the isl
and groups that have lately come under
our jurisdiction, whose people must look
to agriculture as a livelihood. It is
searching the world for grains, grasses,
fruits and vegetables specially fitted for
introduction into localities in the several
States and Territories where they may
add materially to our resources. By
scientific attention to soil survey and
possible new crops, to breeding of new :
varieties of plants, to experimental ship
meats, to animal industry and applied
chemistry, verv practical aid has been
given our farming and stockgrowing in
terests. Insular Possessions.
In Hawaii our aim must be to de
velop the territory on the traditional
American lines. We do not wish a
region of large estates tilled by cheap
labor; we wi-li a healthy American com
munity of men who themselves till the
farms they own. All our legislation for
the islands should be
end in view.
shaped with this .
It is a pleasure to say that it is
hardly more necessary to report as to
Porto Kico than as to any Slate or
territory within our continental limits.
The island is thiiving as never before,
and it is being administered efficiently
and honestly. Its people are now en
joying liberty and order under the pro
tection of the United States, and upon
this fact we congratulate them and our
selves. I ask the attention of the Con
gress to the need of legislation concern
ing the public lands of Porto Rico.
In Cuba such progress has been made
towards putting the independent gov
ernment of the island upon a firm loot
ing that before the present session of
the Congress closes this will be an ac
complished fact, Cuba will then start
as her own mistress; and to the beauti
ful Queen of the Antilles, as she unfolds
this new page of her destiny, we extend
our heartiest greetings and good wishes.
Elsewhere I have discussed the question
of reciprocity. In the case of Cuba, how
ever, there are weignty reasons oi mor
s ... . .,:.,.... ,i, i
a IV il U III llrillOIIUl llltllisi WIIJ HIV 1
i. ..ii i ... i ' .,
policy slioiim ue neiu to nave a pecu
liar application, and I most earnestly
ask your attention to the wisdom, in
deed to the vital need, of providing for
a substantial reduction in the tariff du
ties on Cuban imports into the United
States.
In ihe Philippines our problem is
larger. 'They are very rich tropical is
lands, inhabited by many varying tribes,
representing widely different stages of
progress toward civilization. Our earn
est effort is to help these people upward
along the stormy and difficult path that
leads to self-government. We hope to
make our administration of the islands
honorable to our Nation by making it of
the highest benefit to the Filipinos them
selves; and as an earnest of what we in
tend to do, we point to what we have
done. Already a greater measure of
material prosperity and of governmental
honesty and efficiency has been attain
ed in the Philippines than ever before in
their history.
'There are still troubles ahead in the
islands. The insurrection has become
an affair of local banditti and maraud
ers, who deserve no higher regard than
the brigands of portions of the Old
World. Encouragement, direct or in
direct, to these insurrectos stands on the
same footing as encouragement to hos
tile Indians in the days when we still
bad Indian wars. Exactly as our aim
is to give to the Indian who remains
peaceful the fullest and amplest consid-v
eration, but to have it understood that
we will show no weaknuss lit he goes
on the warpath, so we ni'ist make it
evident, unless we are false to our own
traditions and to the demands of civil
ization and humanity, that while we
will do everything in our power for the
Filipino who is peaceful, we will take
the sternest . measures with the Fili
pino who follows the path of the in
surrccto and the ladrone.
The heartiest praise is due to large
numbers of the natives of the islands
for their steadfast loyalty. The Maca
bebes have been conspicuous for
their courage and devotion to the flag
The time has come when there
should he additional legislation for
the Philippines. Nothing better can
be done for the islands than to intro
duce industrial enterprises. Nothing
would benefit them so much as throw
ing them open to industrial development.
I call your attention most earnestly
to the crying need of a cable to
Hawaii and the Philippines, to be con
tinued from the Philippines to points
in Asia. We should not defer n day
longer than necessary the construc
tion of such a cable. It is demanded
not merely for commercial, but for
political and military considerations.
Either the Congress should imme
diately provide for the construction
of a government cable, or else an ar
rangement should be made by which
like advantages to those accruing from
a government cable may be secured to
the government by contract with a pri
vate cable company.
No single great material work which
remains to be undertaken on this con
tinent is of such consequence to the
American people as the building of a
canal across the Isthmus connecting
North and South America. Its import
ance to the Nation is by no means lim
ited merely to its material effects upon
our business prosperity; alone it would
be to the last degree important for us
immediately to begin it.
I am glad to be able to announce to
you that our negotiations on this subject
with Great Britain, conducted on bot'i
sides in a spirit of friendliness and mu
tual good will and respect, have resulted
in my being able to lay before the Sen
ate a treaty which if ratified, will enable
us to begin preparations for an Isthmian
canal at any time, and which guarantees
to this Nation every right that it has
ever asked in connection with the canal.
The signed treaty will at once be laid
before the Senate, and if approved, the
Congress can then proceed to give effect
to the advantages it secures us by pro
viding for the building of the canal.
The Monroe Doctrine.
Our people intends to abide by the
Monroe Doctrine and to insist upon it
as the one sure means of securing the
peace of the Western Hemisphere. The
Navy offers us the only means of mak
ing our insistance upon the Monroe
Doctrine anything but a subject of de
rision to whatever nation chooses to dis
regard it. We desire the peace wdiich
conies as of right to the just man arm
ed ; not the peace granted on terms of
ignominy to the craven and the weak
ling. Army and Navy.
The work of ujbuilding
must be steadily continued
the Navy
Wo one
point of our policy, foreign or domestic,
is more important than this to the honor
and material welfare, and above all to
l-the peace, of our Nation in the future.
hethcr we desire it or not, we must
henceforth recognize that we have inter
national duties no less than internation
al rights. Even if our flag were hauled
down in the Philippines and Porto Rico,
cvn if we decided not to build the Isth
mian Canal, we should need a thorough
ly trained Navy of adequate size, or else
be perpared definitely and for all time to
abandon the idea that our Nation is
among those whose sons go down to the
sea in ships. Unless our commerce is
always to be carried in foreign bottoms,
we must have war crafts to protect it.
A great debt is owing from the pub
lic to the men of the Army and Navy.
Thev should be so treated as to enable
them to'sreach the highest point of ef
ficiency, so that they may be able to re
spond instantly to any demand made up
on them to sustain the interests of the
Nation and the honor of the flag. The
individual American enlisted man is pro-
bably on the whole a more formidable
fighting man than the regular cf any
other army. Every consideration should
be shown him, and in return the highest
standard of usefulness should be exacted
from him. It is well worth while for the'
Congress to consider whether the pay of
enlisted men upon second and subsequent
enlistments should not be increased to
correspond with the increased value of
the veteran soldier.
Uprising In China.
Tito nr,ner;i1 terms of llii eel lli,nin t
Clf tile questions growing out of the an-
ti-foreign uprising in China of 1900,
having been formulated in a joint note
addressed to China by the representa
tives of the injured powers in Decem
ber last, were promptly accepted by the
Chinese Government. After protracted
conferences the plenipotentiaries of the
several powers were able to sign a final
protocol with the Chinese plenipoten
tiaries on the "th of last September,
setting forth the measures taken by
China in compliance with the demands
of the joint note, and expressing their
satisfaction therewith. It will be laid
before the Congress, with a report of
the plenipotentiary on behalf of the
L'nited States, Mr. William Woodville
Rockhill.
St Louis Eiposltioo.
I bespeak the most cordial support
from the Congress and the people for
the St. Louis Exposition to commemo
rate the One Hundredth Anniversary
of the Louisiana purchase. This pur
chase was tne greatest instance of ex-
pansion in our history.
It definitely
, , . .1
decided that we were to become a great
continental republic, by far the fore
most power in the Western Hemis
phere. It is one of three or four great
landmarks in our history the great
turning points in our development.
The Charleston Exposition.
'The people of Charleston, with great
energy and civic spirit, are carrying
on an Exposition wdiich will continue
throughout most of the present session
of the Congress. I heartily recommend
this Exposition to the good will of the
people. It deserves all the encourage
ment that can be given it.
At Peace With the Nations,
The death of Queen Victoria caused
the people of the United States deep and
heartfelt sorrow, to which the Govern
ment gave full expression. When Pres
ident McKinley died, our Nation in turn
received from every quarter of the Brit
ish Empire expressions of grief and
sympathy no less sincere. The death of
the Empress Dowager Frederick of Ger
many also aroused the genuine sympathy
of the American people; and this sym
pathy was cordially reciprocated by
Germany when the President was assas
sinated. In the midst of our affliction
we reverently thank the Almighty that
we are at peace with the nations of man
kind ; and we firmly intend that our pol
icy shall be such as to continue unbroken
these international relations of mutual
respect and good will
' THEODORE ROOSEVELT.
jM3IB
New York City. Norfolk styles, In
nil their variations, nre much In vogue
and nre specially clile In shirt wiilHtg.
The May Mnnton model shown Is
slr.ipllelty Itself, yet Is snmrt to nn un
usual degree. Tho original Is uinde of
hunter's green velveteen with pipings
of green nud w hite Fekln stripes, nnd
is worn with n fancy stock, but cordu
roy, Annuel, waist cloths nnd tnffetii
nre equnlly appropriate, while the
pipings enu bo of pluln silk or sntin,
In place of tho stripes, when such
trimming suits the r.iniei i.'il better.
The lining is snugly fitted nnd closes
nt the centre front, but scpnrntely
from the outside. The waist proper Is
fitted by menns of centre back, f'.iouI
der nnd uuder-nrm sleeves. The t epnr
nte pleats nre applied ami uurrc .v os
they nppronch the waist line to j.'.ve a
tapering effect to the figure. The back
fits smoothly, but tho fronts can 1 nr
rnuged In gathers at the waist - ad
justed to the figure by means of n
belt as preferred. The closing U ef
fected Invisibly through tho hei.i be
neath the centre pleat. The f eves
nre lu bishop style with narrow p. - nted
cuffs. The neck Is finished v.l.h n
regulation stock over which a "ibon
can be worn os Illustrated or v '.lieu
can be finished to match the pier's.
ETON JACKET IN THE
To tut this waist for a woman of
mpiltnm size four and five-eighth yards
of material twenty Inches wide, three
nnd a half yards twenty-seven incnes
wldo or two yards forty-four Inches
wide will be required.
Woman's Eton Jacket.
In spite of the favor shown the
longer models, the Eton Jacket: Is In
the height of style, and by ninny wom
en is preferred to all other wraps.
This jaunty little coat Is suited alike
to the costume and the separate wrap,
and allows of being worn open or
closed as preferred. The May Man
ton original, shown, la the large draw
ing, Is made of French broadcloth In
tobacco brown, nnd Is worn with a
skirt of the same and over a shirt
waist of white taffeta, but velveteen,
corduroy, zebellue, camel's hair, che
viot and all suiting materials, as well
as the. heavier cloaking cloths are ap
propriate. The back extends to the
waist line only, but Includes under
arm gores that render the fit specially
satisfactory. The frouta nre fitted
with single darts and are elongated to
extend below the belt at the centre.
The neck Is finished with n regulation
collar that rolls over, with the fronts,
to form revers. The sleeves are In
cont style, simply stitched at the low
er edges. When closed tho jacket Is
buttoned In double-breasted fnnhlon
uud the revers beeomo short, but when
worn open they are rolled back to the
waist.
To cut this Jacket for a woman of
medium size three and three-eighth
yards of material twenty Inches wide,
oue and a halt yards forty-four Inches
wide or one nud three-eighth yards
fifty Inches wide will be required.
How to I'ut on Gloves.
If there Is anything that mnrs it
woman's appearauce It Is a glove with
the seams twisted and all the fingers
awry. Here Is the correct wuy to put
on gloves. The first trying on of a
glove Is the most Important, because
by this act tho glove Is set. First
shake some powder Into each finger
of tho glove, theu plnce your elbow
firmly ou a table, with the hand up
right and the thumb extended townrd
the palm. Draw the body of the glove
over the fingers, and, after seeing that
each seam of the glove Is straight with
the lines of the IJnger, coax each finger
Into the finger of the glove. Ho sure
lu the meantime that the stitching
sj
SHIRT WAIST,
0N& spft
on the back of the glove Is also
straight. Next Insert the thumb, nnd
look once ngnlu to see If the seams
are nil straight; If not. pull the glove
off nnd liegiu ngnln. The seam nt tho
top of the thumb should be In line
with the middle of the thumb nail.
Snioothe the wrist neatly, nnd fasten
the second button before the top one,
which will not theu suddenly burst
off.
Important ltowknnt.
Brond fur collars nre now In great
vogue. Thoy are ample In proportions
nnd tuner down to the breast, where
lue'collnr Is finished by n great bow
knot of fur. Narrow widths of chlu
ebilln are used for these bowkuots.
The loops reach almost to the waist,
nnd the furred cuds hang far down
to the bottom of the Louis Qnluze
cont. A grenl deal of fur is used up
In the loops nnd ends of the bowknot
of fur. As n matter of fnct the bow
is nlrendy knotted. It would spoil
n delicate fur like chinchilla to be
ceaselessly tying nud untying' it.
A lllxh Turn Over.
Coat collars nre notlcenbly high this
season. He It "Napoleon" or the "high
turnover," It must measure no less
thnn four and n hnlf Inches. This Is
intended to give us n rest from the
lolling nnd storm collars which have
usurped attention so long. The "high
turn-over," being so high, protects that
delicate portion of tho human anato
my, the back of the neck, nnd so It is
of n good shape to fit smoothly on the
shoulders. We have no use for nn
old-style, low-necked coat this winter.
The trend of fashion Is nil the other
way. . ,
Vnr Ilata.
The fur hats in vogue are sonifwhnt
larger than the toques of yore and nre
merely trimmed with soft scarfs of
luce. Put It Is not necessary to think
seriously about winter hendgear yet.
The ehapeaux of the moment, trimmed
with autumnal fruits and flowers, nre
charming; so let us enjoy them while
we may.
HEIGHT OF STYLV
l'erslan I.umb ITaerl lot- Tiiinuilng.
Cream white l'erslan lamb is used
for trimming some of the handsomest
new white and clay cloth coats.
Suit With Ooulile lireiistcd Velt.
Nothing makes a more satisfactory
boy's suit than dark blue serge. The
admirable model shown Is made of
that material with simple bone but
tons, and Is well ndapted to school
wear, but mixed cheviots nnd all otluir
suiting materials cnu be substituted If
preferred.
The trousers are carefully shupe':
and nre correctly fashioned. The vest
Is double-breusted, lu conformance
with tho season's style, and Is supplied
with double rows of buttons and but
tonholes. The jacket Is seamed at the
centre back and curveB to give a grace
ful effect. The fronts are halt loose,
with Inserted pockets covered with
lups. The neck Is finished with regu
lation collar that rolls over with the
fronts to form lapels, and the sleeves
are In coat style, stitched to sltutllate
cuffs.
To cut this suit for a boy of eight
years of age two and one-eighth yards
SOX'S 6UIT.
of material forty-four Inches wide or
oue nnd three quarter yards Cffy-four
inches wide will be required, with otio
half yard of lining for back of vest,
M ft
'PPl
ORCANIST.
! wonder how the organist
Cnn do so runny minim;
3e' getting reariy long before
The choir stands up nnd sings:
ile's pressing buttons, pushing stops;
He's pulling here and there,
And testing all the working parts
While listening to' the prayer.
fie runs a mighty big machine,
It's full of funny things:
A mass of boxes, pipes and tubes,
And sticks and Bints and strings;
There's little whistles for a cent,
In rows and rows and rows;
I'll bet there's twenty miles of tubes
As large as garden hose. ,
There's scores, as round as stovepipes, and
There's lets so big and wide,
That several" little boys I know
Could piny around inside;
Frnm little oits of piccolos
That hardly make a toot.
There's every size up to the great
Big elevator chute.
Hie organist knows every one,
And how they ought to go;
(Ie makes them rumble like a storm,
Or plays them sweet and low;
At times you think them very near;
At times they're soaring high,
Like angels' voices, singing far
Off, somewhere in the sky.
For he cnn take this structure that's
As big as any house.
And make it squeak as softly as
A tiny little mouse;
And then he'll jerk out something with,
A movement of the hand,
And make you think you're listening tr
A military band,
He plays it with his fingers and
He plays it with his toes,
And if ho really wanted to
He d play it with his nosp;
He's sliding up and down the bench,
He's working with his knees,
He's dancing round with both his feet
As lively as you please.
I always like to take a sent
Where I can see him go;
He's better than a sermon, and
He does me good, I know;
like the life and movement and
I use to hear him play;
fie is the mnst exciting thing
In town nn Sabbath day.
George W. Stevens, in Toledo Times.
Before marriage 1 really thought
That in the right 1 was strong;
Now I'm told I am quite weak
In all excepting what's wrong.
New York Herald.
If n pretty girl has, Indeed, no brains,
It simply goes to show that nature
Isn't giving brains to such as can't
possibly use these In their business.
Puck.
Visitor "And have you any uncles
nd aunts?" Winifred "Oh, yes, lots
of uncles nnd nunts. But I'm very
scarce In grandfathers and grand
mothers!" Punch.
"True greatness," says the Mana
funk philosopher, "Is based upon the
ability to make other people share the
food opinion you have of yourself."'
Philadelphia Itecord.
A paradox really
la debt. For ,in fact, it
Grows constantly bigger
The more you contract it.
Philadelphia Record.
"What business brings the heaviest
returns?" asked the man who "wanted
lo know." "The literary business,"
sighed the struggling author, as be
opened a two-pound rejected book
oaanuscrlpt. Philadelphia Tiecord.
"Ah," said the great foreign actor,
"I have hit ou a plan which will, In
deed,, bring me distinction." "What Is
It?" asked a friend. "I shall make a
farewell tour of the United States
and I shall not go back." Brooklyn
Life. i
Mrs. Hauskeep "The dishes you
have put on the table of late, Bridget,
have been positively dirt'. Now,
something's got to be done about it"
Hrldgot "Yls, mum; av ye only had
Jark-colored wans, mum, they wouldn't
show the dirt at all." Philadelphia
Press. w
The kind hearted lady picked the lad
up and brushed off his clothes. "My
poor boy," she said sympathetically,
"whatever made you take such an aw
ful fall?" "The attraction of gravita
tion, ma'am," nuswered little Harold
Hoiinhill lu his quiet Bostonlnu way.
Chicago Post.
Karly New York's Journalfrm.
A newspaper writer has discovered
that the first newspaper lu New York
was begun ou November 10, 1725; a
leeond oue entered the field November
Ii, 1TJH. During the Revolution there
were five, which, by agreement, ap
peared on each day of the week, ex
oept Sunday nnd Monday. Up to 1833
no Cully had a circulation, of 3000.
Advertising agents wcro unknown.
The Sun, established September 8,
1833, was the first successful penny
paper. It soon printed four times as
many copies as the largest of the dal
lies, and Its success made many Imi
tators. The editor of a dally had but
one assistant, and ho rarely brought
In from the outside more than three
or four paragraphs in a day. Tho total
receipts of the chief newspaper In
1825 might have beeu J35.000; In 1845.
$200,000; In 1800, $000,000; and in 1872,
f 1,000,000. The trade and commercial
weeklies began as far back as 1730,
but most of the strong ones were
fennded Just before Jhe Civil War, and
iiad a very difficult time In gettlug
stabllshed.
Camps For Counuiuptlvei.
Camps for consumptives will soou be
feature of hospital work near Bos
ton. The project will be started with .
3ne cnuip, and additions will be made
from time to time. Ten box tents will
be arranged lu a circle around an
open air fire, nud surrounding them
will be a wall of duck el.iht feet in
height. Tho patients will have an
opportunity to test the value of fresh
tilr, for the tents will receive no other
heat thau that obtained from the open
Qro, and for tho coldtst weather extra
heat must be secured by means of
sleeping boots, hot water Jugs and felt
bhiuUets. "
fcaro Wsdtlluir Fees.
It Is said that the yearly average
f marriage feett received by some
West End clergymen amounts to about
MOO or o00-a neat little perquisite,
by tho way; Tho largest fee ou record
Is the one paid to the l'ove by the
Duke d'Aosta for the privilege of inHr
rylug his niece. At a fashionable wed
Sing lu New York the clergyman re
mtly received 0 chock for $1000. Tho
two extremes in the cnee of a well
mown minister were s foe of $UHJ and
1 loan to tiia bridegroom of $ IU.--IjU.i-lou
Sunday Cowipaulou