V
NEW YORK FAgfflONg. 1
II Designs For Costumes That Have Be
ll - come Popular in the Metropolis.
New Yowc Citt (Special). Very
long trained skirts are demanded for
home wear. Tea gowns, and all gowns
to be worn for formal occasions and
strictly for the bouse are always more
graceful when they are made long.
The present idea of the dressmakers
seems to be to make these skirts and
the same idea is carried out in soma
of the street gowns with a silk drop
kirt that only just touches, but is
finished with two or three accordion
pleated ruffles. The nnlined skirt
itself has a faoing sewed in with the
tiniest of stitches, that must not be
allowed to show; the facing is deep
i
1 .'r. -fl
DRRHSY TEA OOWN.
enough to make the skirt hang well.
The idea is that when the long skirt is
lifted there is only to be seen the silk
under skirt, with nil its frou-frou of
ruffles. For light gown the ruffle
should be edged with lace; the effect
is very dainty and atlraotire.
One beautiful tea gown is iu the
form of a sweepiugcoatof soft, creamy
oloth; from the shoulders to the waist
is an inset of coarse laoe, embroidered
in gold, and through this one can see
theshoulder waist enoiroled with blue,
while soft yellow chiffon falls in front.
Anolbor tea gown has an underdress
figure. The npper part will still fit
closely, but the flounce allowing of so
much more of a flare, makes on the
whole a more graceful fulness around
the bottom.
The Lateet In Vella.
One has heard on all sides that veils
are out of date; certainly they were
hardly worn during the summer. In
fact, no smart woman wore them last
season, but now the winter winds are
with us again people aro glad of tho
protection of a veil to keep stray locks
of hair in that perfect neatness which
is necessary, l'he very dearest, veils
are now worn; they aro or Russian
net, with a very wide mesh, the spots
being far apart. At a distauce theso
veils are hardly noticed.
Hllfl ftllka !ae,l In Milliner?.
Stiff silks, such as glnces, have been
relegated to millinery, being employed
for hats and sometimes for the back
of a oloth gown, satin occasionally be
ing substituted. It is usually of a
lightdl' or darker shado than fli rf.
of the gown, and also forms the lower
part oi me snirt. me clotli falling over
it like a tunic A fnvni-itn ntvln fr,v
tea gowns is draped with chiffon in
iue ironi Having satin or brocade at
the aides.
The Tailored Shirt Wailt
The tailored shirt waist is quite tho
most stunning of the styles present
ed; it is as often of silk as wool fab
ric. Fleece-lined piques are also
popular. The fronts of these waists
are quite fancy regardless of tho tailor
cut of collar, cuffs end back. The
fluffy front has been discarded for the
strips of silk embroidery that is, silk
on wool or fancy ribbon, which latter
trimming is the handsomest.
Ilrnn.l Bulla Nnw.
Broad belts of Liberty satin or vel
vet are seen on some of the new cos
tumes, iu sharp contrast to the nar
row belts that are so much in fashion.
It must be confessed that a broad
belt, when w6ru under an Eton jacket,
looks very smart, just the edge show
ing at tho back, but these belts must
always bo of satin or velvet, cut on
the bias. A broad ribbon belt is
quite out of style.
Olil Ilodlce Like ew.
A bodice that has been worn for
DIUrED COTTON WAIST.
MODEL IN BAND El) SH.K.
of white satin, with a lace coat, cut to
follow the lines of the figure and em
broidered with brilliantly oolored roses
and having scarf ends of pink chiflou
floating in front. A blue tea gown
although white, rose and yellow seem
to be the favorites this season is sin
gularly pretty. It has a trailing ooat
of silver mail, with a black and white
sash, the ends of which are delicately
flowered.
Tiro Lata Walet Model..
A draped waist model is pictured
iu the large engraving whioh can be
easily copied in cotton. The founda
tion is silk and indicates an eutire
bodice closely tucked.
The round yoke is of mousseline de
soie, ami the draped scarf which out
lines the yoke is also of the same ma
terial, edged with silk ribbon. Thin
idea would serve excellently for tho
waist made of Persian lawn, and the
draped portion oould follow the model
aihown, made of lawn, tucked and
edged with a narrow niching of Valen
ciennes lace. It could also be out in
to deep points, sort of handkerchief
points, made of strips of insertion
edged with laoe, or of lawn more sim
ply finished. In a design of this kind
rosettes would be omitted.
The second model iu this group i
of silk banded with narrow blaok vel
vet ribbon, an eutirely new concep
tion, and one which leuds itself excel
lently to the copy int. Iu aootton waist
it would be made entirely of tucks, or
tucks alternated with insertion.
, The baok shows au unbroken line
of tuoks from the neck to the waist.
At the front the line is broken at the
tst, from whioh point the bands ex
Jteud around the body to the side
eama.
In the silk waist black velvet stock
and cuffs are piotured; iu the cotton
waist the linen collar would be worn
aad the sleeves finished to the wrist.
some time gets rubbed under the arms
and across the back long before the
rest of it is ut ail shabby, und yet it
looks far too old to wear. To renovato
and make like new make a little
bolero or zouave jacket to wear over
it, either of velvet, lace or cloth.
Narrow Inco sewn together does
equally as well as that bought in the
piece. The clotli or velvet could bo
edgod with fur, and yon will havo n
new bodice for a trifling cost.
A Model IMhIU Skil l.
It is generally understood that
pluidu, especially the large plaids that
ure worn this season, show off to bet
ter advautage when made up on the
bias iu a circular skirt. Tho illustra
tion gives a model tkirt designed
principally for pluid material. The
upper part is hlicath lining, but from
the knee down the skirt flares stylish
ly aud falls m graceful folds toward
the baok. The single box pleat is up
plied narrow at tho waist line, 1ml,
flares at the bottom, where it trains
slightly. Although desigued especi
ally for plaid and for double faoed
materials, this model would be ap
propriate for cheviot, camel's hair,
homespun, Venetiau or any of the new
novelty cloths.
BEARS NEWS OF DEATH.
Tor Slim Flgurea,
The seamless skirt is suitable only
for very slim figures, as it outlines
the shape too plainly to be worn by a
etout woman. The perfect fit and out
of this skirt, to make it hsug proper
ly, will insure its exolubiveuess, It
coald not be copied in obeap, ready
uade skirts and have any kind of style
to it.
The shaped Spanish flounce is also
very much in evidenoe, and will be
mere popular in cloths than the seam
less cut. as it is suited to almost anr
CIRCULAR SKIRT WITH BOX PLEAT IN BACK
To make this skirt for a woman of
medium size will require three and
three-quarters yards of material fifty
tour iuohes wide.
VIR. OIMNENT THE ONLY REMAINING
AANSPREKER IN AMERICA.
(arrival In Mllnanke nf n Cnatoin Our
nmnuion In New York and Still In
Vogue In Holland His llnalneee la to
Announce lleatha.
"Yes, mine is a queer business.
Death to you means a loss; to me it is
lot only a profit but n livelihood.
Death aud I are friends. On him de
fends my living. Were there no
leath, I, ns aanspreker of the Dutch
!amilies of Milwaukoe, would not be
n demand. As it is, I am his messen
ger." So spoke Adrian Dimnent to a New
fork Hun man iu Milwankco, Wis.
lie continued:
"Yes, the lifo of an aanspreker is
Indeed a strange one, and yet in Hol
land it does not attract much atteu
;ion. But here iu America little of us
(s known. Iu the early Dutch colonial
iajH in the East there were many of
is. At present I know of no other
parson iu this country who makes his
living as I do. I am perhaps the only
tnrvivor in the United States of au
ancient custom which is still in vogue
In the rural districts in Holland; but
,lie progress of the time has gradually
jrowded us out of the business in this
jouutry. As for myself, I cannot ex
sect to follow my strauge vocatiou
aiuoh longer. lam eighty-two .years
)f age aud life at that stage is uncer
tain. I sometimes wonder whether
with me will die the custom of the
Dutch aansprckor of Milwaukee."
Mr. Dimuent's business is to go
from house to house and announce
the death of any member of the Hol
land colony who may die here. In the
rural districts of Hollnud every village
nd town has its annspreker or an
nouncer. The relatives of the de
seased engage the aanspreker and he
;alls on a list of the friends and ac
quaintances that the bereaved family
may wish to inform of the death.
These announcements take the place
of the customary newspaper death
uotice. Usually where daily newspa
pers are printed there is ltttle need
for the aanspreker.
When years ago the Dutch settled
in Milwaukee the need of au aan
spreker became apparent. Although
there are several thousand Dutch fam
ilies iu this city, there is no newspa
per published iu their language. Con
sequently they have for years relied
an the aauspreker, Mr. Dimueut, to
keep them informed on the deaths of
members oi the colony.
"You see," explained Mr. Dimnent,
"there is no way iu which onr people
ivould know of the death of a Hollan
der were it not for tho aanspreker.
When an American or a German dies,
the usual death notice in the news
papers is all that is necessary. But
we have no Dutch papers here. It is
true that many of tho 2,500 families
)f Dutch descent in this city do take
tome of our city papers. Many read
German and the younger generation
reads English. But take the old Dutch
settler, he who came direct from the
rural districts of Holland to this coun
try, ho cannot read any other than his
native language and not always that.
He has spent his days on the farm
and is now ending his last years iu
quiet retirement. Outside of meetiug
his people at the Dutch church on
Sunday he knows little of what his
fellow countrymen aro doiug. When
a death ocours lato in tho week wo
son always reach him with au an
nouncement of tho funeral from the
pulpit on Sundays. But where a
Dutch resident dies early iu the week
and tho funeral occurs ou or just be
fore Sunday, wo cannot reach him by
this means. Tho auuspreker is then
called, in.
"I havo followed this business for
inauy years aud I suppose I must have
broken the new of the death of their
friends to thousands of people. No,
it is not always an easy task. Oue
must understand the business like
anything clso. It is easier to iuform
a ohauco acquaintance than a dear
friend or relative. Tho aanspreker
must use tact aud judgment. He
must adapt himself to circumstances."
When it is taken into consid
eration that iu his rounds he
calls ou two or three hundred
families aud that wheu he makes
the announcQtuent of tho death
he is plied with a hundred and ouo
questions, it will be seen that he has
no time for gossip. Neither has he
time to Btop to console friends or to
listen to reminiscences of the depart
ed. Usually beforo he starts out ou
his trips he obtains all the informa
tion he can from the relatives as to
tho illness nf the dead person. Ho
ascertains the funeral arrangements,
and then studies to put his facts into
us few words as possible. AV'heu he
starts ou his trips, he figures as close
ly as he can to save tune ou the ar
rangement of the order iu which ho
takes tho families. Ho does not ring
the bells nor rap at the door. That
would be time wasted. He must work
quickly, aud thorofore walks right in
to the house of the family he is to no
tify. Ho announces briefly the cir
cumstances of the death aud the de
tails of the fuueral. Theu he leaves.
It is not necessary for him to prefaco
his remarks with au introduction of
himself. Every Dutch resident in
Milwaukee knows him. He does not
have to say whether ho is ou otlicial
business or jnst paying a visit. Every
body knows that when Adrian Dim
nont, attired in bis black suit of
mourning, calls, he brings bad news
and that somebody, has passed ovor
the meridiau of life.
Although eighty-two, Mr. Dimnent
is'a man of remarkable aotivity. His
trips take him miles about the oity,
but be goes over his routes with a
vigor that surprises many of the
younger men of his people. Winter
and summer, rain or shine, he makes
the trips whenever he is called upon.
His journeys last from early morning
until often very late at night. Where
meal times overtake him he dines.
The old man finds a meal awaiting
him whenever he ohooses to eat. But
even his meal hours are often our
tailed when the time for his getting
his notices about is short.
. SOME ADVERTISING FACTS.
Illnta to Hear In Mlntl XV Urn Talking
Through the Freae.
The reputation of the firm depends
largely npon the advertising which it
circulates, in the sense that the pub
lic judges a store by the tenor of its
announcements. Cheap advertising
gives the impression that the storo in
cheap. Polished advertising reflects
a weil-couductod establishment.
Advertisiug was never originated
nor intended for the purpose of sell
ing off plug-uglies and old undesirable
lots at a wholesome profit.
eve
How many peoplo make price the
first consideration? If we are to judge
from the dry goods advertising of the
period, the great majority of citizens
must be of an economical turn. But
statistics prove the opposite. Most
peoplo spend all the money they
moke. Many spend more than they
make, l'rioe low price is the weak
est of foundations for an advertising
campaign.
I ,The "cheap John" advertiser's storo
is seldom referred to by the public as
a "good store." Annmberof bargain
hunters will always be attracted by
the "cheap Johu" man, but the peo
ple who desire "good goods" seldom
cross his threshold.
e
No advertiser who ever startod out
with the idea that the sure road to
success was to '"humbug the public,"
ever "lasted" in business,
ewe
The "superlative npon superlative"
advertiser has, iu some instances,
been successful up to a point, but he
never succeeded in reaching a digni
fied aud respected position iuhis com
munity, e e ,
Every advertiser should remember
that one of the easiest things in the
world is to mold public opinion. Tho
advertising can be written so that
people will come to regard tho store
which it concerns as a first-class store
or as a trashy establishment.
The advertisiug which "doesn't
pay" is the advertising which is not
backed up by the merchandise. It is
folly to blow aud bluster about a poor
stock of goods. Better indeed to keep
out of print.
e e
It is not every ono who can write
good advertising. Meu who are fitted
by native ability and education to
write discursivo articles and editorials
often make a very poor hand at ad.
writing. The ad. man must possess
peculiar abilities. He must bo ob
serving, be quick to grasp the'talking
points of nu article. It is not neces
sary for him to bo a litterateur. If ho
addresses himself to the public in
plain, comraon-seuse English half the
battle; is nvou. But the argument,
the logical- argument, must be there.
'
Bo brief and to the poiut. That
piece of advice is being continually
flung at advertisers. But there in
danger iu brevity for all that. Soma
ada. are so brief that they possess no
convincing power.
It is only continuous advertiiiing
that pays. Spasmodic efforts have
never beeu known to yield results.
The fellow who advertises only when
trade is dull, or rushes into print as a
last resort, is never going to build up
a great business.
If you find that it pays you to rnn
a page ad. dou'ttry to reduoe expenses
by chaugiug it to a half page.
e e
One of the gravest mistakes a man
can make is to imagine that "big
words" make good advertising. They
don't any more than they make go oil
literature. The best writers of both
literature aud advertising are tUoso
who use the simplest language.
It is a nico accomplishment to be
able to find just the light adjective
when aud where it is needed. Soino
ad. writers must have a dictionary or
k book of synonyms at their elbow all
tho time, judgiug from the variety of
the superlatives which appeir iu cur
rent advertising. And some of them
are so inappropriate as to be ludicrous.
Dry Qoods Economist.
Hallore Scarre In Germany.
With the rapid growth of tho Ger
man Navy and the German marino
there has beou uu increasing scarcity
of native crews, especially iu respect
of trained young sailors. A few years
ago Germany furnished a large por
tion of tho crews of English vessols,
but to-day the crows of German ves
sels are partly composed of foreign
ers. This chaugo is due chiefly to the
pheuomenal rise of German industry,
which has boen accompanied by a
uniform rise in wages paid for skilled
lubor, which has acted as an iuoentive
to draw away from a seafaring life.
It is already foreseen that, with tho
doubling of the German Navy now
contemplated, this dillioulty will in
crease, aud steps are being taken to
meet it. At Bremen the North Ger
mau Lloyd Company is organizing a
cadet school to train young men for
the oompuuy's service. Berlin Cor
respondence New York Times.
Uneuoeeeeful.
Willie (who has never before seen
fife) "Oh, mamma, there's a man
trying to stop up the leaks of bis horn
to keep the uiusio from running
"?." Judee.
Long Time to I'reaa a Coat.
Ambiguous signs and advertise
ments occasionally meet the eye iu
this oity. Some are evidently inten
tional, made so with the object of im
pressing the memory of those who
read them. Others are the result of
accident. A saudwioh man paraded
Broadway the other day bearing oue
of the latter kind. It read: "Your
overooat cleaued and pressed for forty
days for 75 cents." A passer by who
asked the saudwioh mau why any ono
should want his coat pressed for forty
days when plenty of tailors would
press it in a few minutes while the
customer waited received only n va
cant Btare for answer. New York
Tribune.
Vllpuant Nainee of I'oatofltcea.
The poBtofBoe list of the United
States is studded with flippaut names
like Ino, Uno, Igo, aud Ido. Male
volent humor possibly prompted the
selection for Iuo of a postmaster
named Wise, or perhaps it was only
a sense of the fitness of things. Igo
was formerly ou the Star route to
Ono, but was ordered to be omitted a
few days ego, possibly because the
rhythm of the combination was be
joining intolerable.
w
MIOWINTcR FURS,
Ther Are Ueneroual Uaetl on If nt, Uown
ml Coat.
It is n season of furs. Not in years
have such quantities of beautiful soft
sables and feathery chinchilla trimmed
so generously hat, gown aud coat to
say nothing of the whole frocks lav
ishly built of baby lamb wool that are
regal from a point of expenditure and
oxtrome'.y chic in effect. The many
names by which this baby lamb, as
we call it, is known, proves rather
confusing, and the nationality of your
tailor determines under which title
you order it. In London it is broad
tail; in Paris covacue, and iu Berlin
breitsohwanz. Ono of the prettiest
of these handsome fur gowns was
worn at a fashionable tea the other af
ternoon, The skirt was perfectly
plain and exquisitely hung, while the
jackot extended bolow the waist line
in one large scallop just in the centre
of the back, and then rounded off
toward the front, where there was a
decidedly pointed dip. Carved ivory
buttons that were not very large
servod as fasteners. Sable rovers and
Russian cuffs and collar were the final
touch of smartness. When the coat
opened there was a glimpse of a most
beautiful whito satin antique shirt
waist, appealiugly simple. The hat
was also of Court sable, fashioned after
an English walking hat may ono be
bourgeoise and whisper that the hat
alone cost $150? With such hats iu
their trouseau, women are not likely
to discard them, as has boon predict
ed, because cheap imitations are
bountiful. If anything, vulgarity of
the imitations rather enhances the
value of the real. Besides fur hats
are far too becoming, and whon or
dered from clever milliners prove tho
grand ohio of almost any costume.
Up to the present time there has
been bnt little need of fur jackets.
However, the last few days have de
termined that the woman of fashiou
has shown rather a preference for
seal, and in the jaunty short coats
there is nothing rioueror prettier. Of
course the baby lamb jaokets hold
their own in popularity,
Mrs. "Jaok" Astor's street baby
lamb ooat is a very pretty model, with
its inlet girdle of velvet overlaid with
braid. Tiny cut steel round buttons
are seeu in the front. With this she
wore a simple black cloth skirt, and
the daintiest of pale blue tucked vol
vet hats, trimmed with a black choux
at one side. 'Earrings of turquois
surrounded with brilliants iiave an ex
tra touch of color that was most bo
coming. At Mrs. Anson Phelps Stokes's re
ception a few days ago oue of the
prettiest and most distinguished cos
tumes was sable-tail short jacket
fastened .with blue cameo buttons,
surrounded with cut steel, and worn
with a gray oloth skirt, and a very
flat velvet toque, also of gray.
Iu fancy inexpensive furs thero is a
large collection to choose from. The
grays, though pretty, are rather passe.
Cinnamon bear is smart, aud makes a
good boa and muff. White long-hair
boas and muffs are quite the smart
touch at the moment. At a receut
luncheon just suoh a set was worn
with a pastel-blue costume, and the
tout ensomble was good aud uuusual.
If one is going to order a muff, it
is best to stick to the round conven
tional shape, as it will be fouud to bo
more satisfactory in the long run.
Some of the fancy fur and velvet
muffs are smart, but unless a woman
has many such thiugs she will fiud
them tiresome. Thero has never been
a time whon clothes were so pretty, if
well chosen, but the selection cannot
be made too carefully, aud in this
luy of lavish display the woman who
knows adheros to simplicity. New
York Times.
Aa to Xoaea.
A perfeot nose is one of the rarest
thiugs to be found in this world. Of
the different features of the face the
nose is undoubtedly the principal.
It cau mar or enhance the beauty of a
face, no matter how imperfect or per
fect the other features may be, aud al
most always eiiaraoter can be read
from tho noes, Tho Roman nose de
notes bo'.srrr? of character, also
"reut business enterprise.
No one .nvies the possessor of a
red nose- unsigbtliuess is due
to many bnl. Tight-lacing will
eventually cause a red nose; ho will
some form of indigestion; also ex
posure ! ".Vheu the reduess is
due to iu?7Tgsuon the victim should
overoome the cause by caroful dieting.
For the cure of reduess of the
nose caused by exposure to the sun
or heat a good retiring or cold cream
applied and allowed to remain ou for
a while will soothe irritation and re
move the tan.
When the redness is determined
and painful then the cause is more
serious. A form of cancer begins
with irritation aud redness of tho nose,
and it is therefore wise to consult a
physician when none of tho simple
remedies avails.
Black heads and enlarged pores on
the nose are the most general troubles.
Tho former are very stubborn aud
hard to eradicate, but a good pene
trating retiring cream put on to re
niuiu overnight and washed off with
hot water and a chemically pure soap
in the morning will be found very
beneficial. It is best, though, to con
sult a reliable skin speoialiHt. To
contract enlarged pores of the nose
bathe organ in very hot water, and
then splash it immediately with cold
water. The shape of the nose is some
thing we cannot greatly alter. In
babyhood, when the cartilages of the
nose are soft and pliable, the. mother,
by daily molding the nose as she
wants it shaped, can assist nature.
Women's Itlcht to Blake Willi.
Men usually make wills as a matter
of course. Oftentimes a womau ne
gleots to make a will as muoh on ao
oount of her ignorance of the required
form as through negligouoe. And in
stead of inquiring into the subjeot,
mauj dismiss it and vaguely believe
that at their death their affairs will be
oouduoted quite as satisfactorily as
with a written testament.
Wills may be made by any person
not disqualified by age or by mental
incapacity, excepting in some Statef
married women. A female over twel vi
years of age iu New Mexico and ovet
sixteen in New York may bequeath
her personal property. But eighteet
is the age fixed for devisiug real estatt
in California, Colorado, Connecticut,
Dakota, Distriotof Colunbia, Illinois
Maryland, Minnesota, Montana, Ne
vada, Utah and Washington, whilo ic
the other States the testatrix must b(
twenty-one years of age.
Married women may devise theii
soparate estates in Alabama, Arizona,
Arkansas, California, Connecticut, Da
koto, District of Columbia, Idaho,
Kentucky, Maine, Missouri, Nevada,
North Carolina. Tennessee, Utah, Ver
mont,, Virgiuia, Wisconsin aud Wy
oming. It is necessary in the othet
States that a married woman have the
written consent of her husband before
disposing of her property by will.
Au unmarried woman's will is le
gally revoked by marriage, bnt hei
property may be arranged in such
manner as to permit her to dispose ol
it after marriage as she may desire.
Womun's Home Companion.
The New tlata.
It is iu the new hats and small bon
nets that the greatest departure will
immediately take place. While the
cry of tho fashionables iu for the fut
toque; with plumes of malines and
brussels not, still the well-versed real
ize that that is no longer a new story
from the highest standpoint, though
it may be from the popular fashiona
ble standpoint.
A Parisian authority of undoubted
position shows a maline toque iu
which are twined small eriniue tails iu
black and white, the maline being
white. The tails run horizontally
around the hat and are plaoed at in
tervals between the maline, but show
ing the fur distinctly. - The hat is
unique and peculiar. Tho great ten
dency of the moment is toward lower
crowns, flatter hats and smaller diame
ters.
Hats will undoubtedly turn back
ward from the face, many strings will
come into use and big neck bows ol
malines net, laoe and other materials
will quickly come to the front. The
Empire following, while not strong,
is surely coming.
The bats that best suit tho confined
outlines of costume of to-day are the
small affairs, either low or with tall
crowns. Dry Goods Economist.
The Piano a Womutt'e Inetrnment.-
In ancient times women played ol
lutes, viols and all varieties of instru
ments of the violin aud guitar family.
In Italian and Flemish pictures up to
tue end of the seventeenth centurv
women aro represented playing ou
stringed instruments. Domenichiuo
represented St. Ceoilia playing ou tho
violoncello. After the intro''M"tiou ol
the harpsichord, however, i above
all, after the replacement of i..o harp
sichord by the more perfect pianoforte,
stringed instruments were generally
abandoned by the fair sex. Tho
pianoforte now came to be regarded
not merely as the only instrument for
a woman to oultivate, but also ns oue
which every woman was bound to
learn.
Women Now Wear Rubber ITeela.
Rubber heels for all shoes and boots
are now worn by women. Tho heel is
a ready-made affafr, ' about half an
iuch'in thickness, aud its advooates
say , that its use lessens the jar of
walking, especially upon city pavo
meuts, to a degree that very materially
affeots the number of headaches to
whioh many women are subjected.
FaaMon'j Faila ami Fanelea.
Crocheted buttons are revived again.
Mistletoe is au adornment newly
adopted by the milliners.
A coat back with basque effect and
bolero front forms one of the now
bodices ou au imported gown.
The tops of sleeves continue to be
more trimmed either with stitching,
cording or some applied decoration.
Some of the corduroy velveteen
and cloth gowns are trimmed with
bands of white kid edged with beaver
fur.
Graduated fringe is oue of the
novelties, aud it is far more graceful
than the straight variety. It is fouud
in all lengths with a knottod bead
ing. Something new in skirt lining, oE
English make, is called raerveline. It
is very fine, soft and'eilky, resembles
moire, and comes in a great variety ol
colors.
Silver fox boas with two feot and
the pointed head of the animal at ore
end and two feet and the bushy tail
at the other are decidedly the fashiou,
for young ladies especially.
Hats with deoided and rather high
crowns are becoming rather popular,
but the latest advices from Paris en
sure us that it is the hat with the
broad, low orown whioh is the nov
elty. A very beautiful example of the
ever-popular black and white contrast
is an elegant oostume of black cloth
oombined with black and whito fig
ured volvet, black silk passementerie
and black and white buttons.
The smart form of the fashionable
lace sleeve is a mitten finish over the
baok of the hnud, kept iu plaoo by a
vory narrow band arouud the thumb
or oue of the lingers. Several small
buttons fasten this sleeve at the
wrist.
A beaver brown cloth ooat stitohed
with while Bilk and oompleted with a
collar and revers of grebe, is one oi
the season's developments in the de
partment of outdoor garments, which
has surpassed all previous records iu
the production of varied styles.
A useful petticoat just received
from Paris is built of lavender flannel,
olosely fitting the hips and reaching
to the knees, where it is extended to
the proper length, with a deep silk
flounce covered with a number ol
small ruffles edged in tarn with laoe.
This novelty combines warmth and
style.
Some of the skirts made with the
box-plaited backs and plain fronts are
effeotive, notwithstanding the killing
comment with whioh they were
lauuohed, that they are particularly
buoomiug to bad figures. That
was in comparison with the sheath
skirt. Perhapn they are, but it would
not be safe for a very bad figure to
rely upon the plans alone for style
preservers.
PRE i.
JOHN I. BLAIR'S
uoaiaeas noiee ror the n .
Clerka. th
When John I. Blair, re
cently, worth from$50,OOii nf
000,000, and who is said to iyt
in the course of his ninci.t. 1
of life more railroads i, Jgi
land than any other privai hu
in the world, kept a com
Grovel Hill (now Blaimt,.
Jersey, in 1831, he en , 3
clerks. He had theu beet l
for himself eleven yenm.
np for himself before hee
years old. '
For his two clerks l,.
irit
set of rules. The
origi,
Blair's handwriting, wastn
lato Charles D. Vail i
Howell, who has had it it lr8,
sion for forty years. Th.0
85 referred to in the rulr,.,'
by Aaron H. Kesoy, then
Blair's two clerks. Tin u
as follows: I
"IUJ1.RS A llKrr,ATIONKT0 f.
BY J. I. BLAHl's cr,,.' 1
"1st . Tho Storehouse nt c0
in tho same to bo ktpt n j
perfect ordor. Notliiug :
mitted to Lie iu a Slovn
about the floor. Neitl.j
shoes, Goods or any otbert.
"2nd. No article of Go
ing, or any other matter,:
nse of unnecessarily. iof
most prudent and respectii
This is a matter worthy to nda
and Lived np to; as carei.f t
Negligence is the ruin of i!
and this particular, above i
ought to be most strictly
dently observed; in oti(jfot
Merchant, or any other f:f
Unless this Principle, tlk
portant of all, is lived npts
less to undertake any J!u;
ever, with the Idea of Mi""
ing. And any persou .T
live np to this Ilule of c;.ji0,
my confidence. i
"3rd. Every article of ?ma
to bo kept in their pluce,:.lt
respectable, and neatest mi
order. , tl
"4th. Tho Books aro nn
posted np by the hoaj tcr
ovory item examined by t.,r',
second clerk, the Charge
age thereof; that innoc
can be found. Which, i!ty
will givo our business i,e
worthy of notice; and ir. j
our customers and ourselvr ,r
urn
no
wo
"5th. I cannot allow w
assooiate too muoh with I
moral characters; nor Frte
1 1' -V- ', I T T
Luverus. neuuer uo in
scull! e or wrestle with suet
themsolves above this, a8i))e
result from it, but a Grej:,
will bring on them, such i-. j,
ness and lounging about m
And those characters will. 0,
privileges in my absence, fi
give Hneasiness. n
"6th. I wish my clerks c. ,
uuiu tu go xveguiar 10 cum
isa good principle. It i
example to otuers, n tuej;.
be immediately benefited lett
"7. Never permit yonr-j
sevon brooms to sweep tbeijn
neither five blickevs tokce:. . .
.IDE
XP
HIS
I 8
fr
and other like'extravaganc
portion. Those priuciplei
ganceare disgusting, aud f
any man in due time. Can
th
ge
inr
Vf
lot
nt
,e i
ol
it'll
en
toe
be
arcfu
cU i
a
it tnita liatfAi. a. wltw i. it
(uu. iun ureal, i riuap
are these and must bo o:
any person, going into I:
carrying ou same; vhioli
strictly attentive always to'
ness. Be Punctual in all
careful and economizing in
MUtl.O l,ot nil ll,i,l:
Watch the situation of you:
Striotly attend to your i
moderatelv pressing the !
he has funds that you ku.! '
dunned, in due form, yon J"
it i, ti,"r
of your own Affairs. Avo;
coinir to anv rdaco where r
business. It is always btn
tend to your business. I'j;
tract debts, look ahead au'ew.
culations to pay them
or A decent, ca
mau will appear muc
Hemp Suit, than a sloreuH
fop iu a Silk Suit,
"N. B. The elerk best
with the above rules shall;'
the first of next April five'
if both live up to it, fived
with my good will. w
"N. B. Always couBiiloit-3
doing business for yotiw
you do my business. I'.'aj
to the Rules .laid down, 1
men of you; and it will rol
yourselves. All that I can r
would be of no Service, if V
comply with my rules, uuJ ;
advice. ty
"If you pursue the cours
laid down, all will be safo,
have tho pleasure of keopic;',
tured; but if not all will bed '
and I must Eternally linJ'lhc
riiotOKraphlnc Toi"1""?
Photographing torabstouiW)
industry which has been i';n.'
a oolored mau of this cii.' i
at one time boy-of-all wort";
graph gallery. He lJ!2j
branched out for himself,
ready established a reuitiu;
ness, whioh promises to op.
wider field iu tho afuture, L.
tho various cemeteries wit' r
eras, and when the da? J
takes pictures of many ol W,
ing monuments. After 1" JT(
oped his plates he takes p' j
among the relatives of tbef r
and usually finds a ready j
pictures. Of course, ho j
chances, for he works eu'
out orders, trustintr to rfu
his sales. Still, he says i';
dom that be doesn't get "i
alflfft halt a linliit. nf llft'l
marble works, w hero toni4 '
made, and by striking wl''T-
is hot he takes a picture bV,
the bereaved relatives hu"
stone. fThis is always '?
Philadelphia lleoord. B
Home-Made War i-U'1
A Paris correspondent ; j 1
field (.England) Daily in
states that bo has seen V
in military costumes, '
British, manoouvering i
the east end of Paris iu
fans mwspaper wiiioo ,
ny means of photograph, j
pictures
spot."
et the war