NEW YORKMHIONg.
Designs For Costumes That Have Be
come Popular in the MetroDO is. . m
' Nw York City (Special). Reseda
tTTeon Las becoma mora fftnliinnnliln
than ever and in considorod especially
eiegant in combination with brown
III
lip
1
m
i.-i
a morning aows.
This becoming bouse gown is of
figured reseda green wool with
flounces of burnt sienna taffeta lightly
embroidered. The little girl's frock is
ehalli.
Green, by the way, is securing for
itself qnite a nice fat slice of popular
favor, ind has serious inclinations
inwards running itself in dangerous
Hvalrv with brown. A dark olive
tone, in a very fine, highly-flniBhed
face oloth, told an attractive tale in a
severely tailor-built coat and skirt
costume seen recently. The coat was
almost au Eton, with just the slightest
presence of spade fronts, that were
thrown baok to the waist by revere of
pale blue panne, run round the edge
with three or four rows of Tom Thumb
black and white silk friuge. As the
skirt was lifted the wearer revealed
glimpses of a pale blue silk petticoat,
and a round toque of tuoked blue
panne, its brim artistically trailed
over on the left fide with Russian
violets, completed a rather more than
usually attractive tout ensemble.
3
white laco with block cloth, and'tho
black lace, no matter bow heavy it is,
has not at all the same look. But s
smart little waist to wear with a blaok
cloth gown that is lined with yellow
is mado of yellow crepe de Chine
trimmed with three rows in the front
and the back of black Chantilly lace,
caught together, eaoh baud of the lace,
with black silk cord fastened with tiny
black buttons.
Flounces unit Fringe.
The spring gowns will be more silky
and lacy. Flounces embroidered and
scalloped will be much seen in silks
and woolens.
There is no question that the silk
fringe which was introduced last fall
will be further nsod, and the innu
merable narrow silk friugos, both ou
tho edges of scarfs, draperies, flounces
and small shoulder affairs, will have a
most broad use. These fringes will
vary from the merest suggestion of a
quarter of an inch ou tho ribbons
through the various widths and pro
cesses of manufacture simple, twist
ed, knotted aud tinseled to the very
widest depths, which will be used as
fronts and to finish the bottoms of
tabliers.
Latent Irea Collar.
The latest fashion in dress collars
consists in a close-fitting band with
out the least flare (that is reserved for
outdoor garments) from 2 J to three
inches wide, but attaining double
that width at the back, where it rises
in an abrupt point. Tho material may
be plain or set on in folds, in prefer
ence the latter, and footed and headed
by whatever may be the trimming of
the dress.
Freshening Up an Old WaUt.
Fashion is kind to those whose
fancy waists have lost their pristine
freshness. All sorts of dainty addi
tions may be made to them, whioh will
make them look like new. Three
rases to this end are shown in the
Flower anil Feather.
Masses of flowers must come to be
the thing. The designs of the past
two or three seasons have discouraged
the belief in flowers, but from this
very fact alone there is enough to
build on to show that the coming sea
son will be a flower season.
Far U the liege.
Fur is tho present rage, and all
hats have as much sable, mink, chin
chilla aud marten as the wearer can afford.
Cloth Coat For a Gli-1.
The long wrap is tho thing for the
young girl. Pelisses that cover tho
entire costume are the rage i.uiong the
fashionable. These gaments are
made from the plainer meltons, stitched
simply around aud buttoned across
the front with straps that extend
across the fastening and button nearer
the side of the garment with large
sjy n r
. aVfc S5 .
DAINTY WAI8X8 FOIt HOME WEAR.
large engraving. One clever woman
turned a high-necked gown into one
appropriate for home wear by cutting
away the throat and draping about
lier shoulders a handsome silk crepe
shawl, whioh she fastened with an
old-fashionod cameo broooh, an heir
loom in tho family. The Priscilla
like effect was very pretty aud quaint.
The laoe shoulder drapery, with
frills and ruc-in ribbon, is very Laud
some and should be used only with a
waist of silk or other rioh material.
The tie aud belt bowed to match are
very fashionable. They can be changed
frequently and give the effect of a
change of costume.
A Cloth Continue a Neeeaalty.
In spite of ooats and skirts, an en
tire cloth oostume remains a ueoess-Ay
in every wardrobe. There are, bo
many bewitching little short jackets
that can be worn with any gown that
it is very hard to resist buying them.
They are almost without exoeption in
the Eton shape at the. back, but with
Jong tabs in front, are made of differ
ent colors iu clotAi, two shades of gray,
the lighter shade being used in the
revers, collar and oufts. In blue they
have facings of darker blue velvet,
and $xt outline of blaok satin making
14 revets still larger. Then there
are the short velvet ooats, of whioh
'mention has been made before, and a
few as yet only a very few of black
cloth, eutirely oovered with small steel
beads, and made with black satin re
vers heavily embroidered in steel and
jet.
The Widening of Skirt. '
If the contemplated widening of
skirts is really seriously thought of,
too much cannot be said regarding
outdoor garments, for nothing can
j"jsibly be narrower or more sheath
like than their actual out and appear
anoe. The long, shapeless coat form is
ths most fashionable, and is but little
wider at the foot than at the shoul
ders, where it fits as closely as possi
ble. For this garment there is a perfeot
., and with reason, for it has a most
elegant and stylish appearanoe. ,
Lao Combined With Cloth.
Lace jno'xets to be worn with oloth
kirts, lace waists and cloth sleeves,
and laoe oapes and cloaks are among
. the latest devices on which money can
spent in providing au up-to-date
trousseau. The oombiuing of laoe
with oloth is very effective, and adds
jbucu to the beauty of the broadoloth
gowns made of colored oloths. It is
father too sharp a contrast to put
pearl buttons, to the elaborate con
fections of chenille-embroidered cloth
cut in several tiers, simulating four
separate coats, one overlapping the
other. ,
The edges of each of these falw
coats are cut out ,Vn design and em
broidered with chenille iu the same
tono of rioh biscuit. Beneath the
chenille embroidery appears a band of
gray chinohi.ila fur, also formed in
contour following the shape of the coat
edge. i
The front of this garment has a stole
of chinchilla and the collar is a broad
reverei of the same fur. The entire
iusiAe double-effect of cream chiffon,
witAi antique laoe embroidered with
umall seed pearls, further enriches
this garment. This, of course, maj
be used as a visits, theatre or after
noon reoeptiou wrap, where it is not
CLOTH CHINCHILLA COAT,
COMPRESSED AIR'S USES.
VARIED WORK WHICH IT IS BEINC
MADE TO DO NOWADAYS.
expeoted that the garment need be
removed.
The entire gamut of shape, design
and color is exhausted iu making
these long individual affairs.
Matin; Ilallronil Train! Handle llns;
Kniret Itlnc Cathedral Chime; rlullit
Jlrldge! Make Uaket (live Sliain
linnti Dilate Carpet; loe It All Well.
All are familiar with tho uses of
compressed air iu bicycle tiros, in
door brakes, iu pneumatic mattresses,
ud iu the department store cash tube
system, to mention a few modern ap
plications, which, however, are novel
ao longer. But does every oue know
that baskets are now made by com
pressed nir, that statuary is chiselled
jy it, that carpets and furniture are
cleaned and dusted by it, that build
Tigs are painted by it, and that a mod
)rn train service would be out of the
inestion were it not for the practical
efficiency of air under pressure? Out
ride of the engineering world how
Many people imagine the scope and
,he multitudinous uses of airtools aud
machiuery in the building of bridges,
in the carving out of tunnels, in al
most every branch of mining, in ship
building, etc.?
A NECESSITY IN r.AILr.OAniNO.
Riding on a modern, thoroughly
equipped railroad, did it ever occur
;o yon that air is used to signal and
Ucer the train and to work the brakes?
That the carpets, the cushions and
;he furniture of the coaches are cleaned
nd dusted by pneumatic brushes; that
;he cars are painted by pnoumatio
paint-spraying machines, and, to
mention the latest appliances, that
:ue baggage is handled by air elevators,
the bell rung by a pneumatio ringer?
After eighteen years of costly and
extensive experimenting, the pneu
Siatio interlockiug signal and switch
tysteni has been made a success aud a
fixture at the leading terminal sta
tions in tbiB country. By its aid one
3ian now does the work that would
otherwise require the combined efforts
of six operators, and he doeB the work
better, the chances of his making mis
takes having been reduced to a mini
mum. The system in use at the Bos
ton Southern station in the largest
known. There are no fewer than 238
pneumatio switches in operation,
sloven trains may move simultaneous
ly into or out of the train shed, 113
semaphore signals areprovided for the
100 possible routes presented in the
twitch system of that terminal.
AIK AS A CLEANSER.
Cleaning car cushions and carpets
by compressed air has lately been in
troduced. A pipe flattened at the end
until it is almost the shape of a spade
is used. The air rushes through per
forations at the thiu, wido end, clean
ing the material without touching it,
at a much swifter rate, aud much
more thoroughly than ordinary brooms
or brushes could. Besides, the wear
and tear consequent on beating the
material is done away with, which is,
of itself, a great saving. Armed with
a single pneumatio cleaner one man
can do more work in less time than
three men could formerly do with
canes and brushes. As for painting
cars tho pneumatio paint spraying
machines now in the market are evea
superior to those used in painting the
World's Fair buildings in Chicago in
18J3. A painting machine has been
invented that will coat 46,000 square
feet of surface in six hours and a half
in the hands of a skillful operator.
Painting by air is not only immeasur
ably snifter and cheaper than old
fashioned brush work, but it has boon
demonstrated that paint supplied by
the air machine is applied mors thor
oughly and is more .durable than
brush painting. The ' Pittshurg . and
Lake Erie Railroad, the Louisville
aud Nashville Railroad and the Illi
nois OtAral Railroad were pioneers
in this Held. The last road is at pres
ent repainting about 400 cars a week
with compressed air, while the Louis
ville and Nashville Railroad reoently
covered eighty-fivo buildings under
this method in reoord breaking time.
The Grand Rapids aud Indiaua
Railroad has gone one step further by
lately adopting the pneumatio baggage
handler system, This device has
proved itself ablo to handle heavy
baggage much more rapidly than it
could otherwise be handled, and,
moreover, to do away with breakage.
The day of ths baggage-smasher may,
therefore, ba past. Tho maohine is
a very simple arrangement of air cy
linder and baggage support. The
latter is lowered to the platform where
it receives the baggage. Then it rises
quickly and is automatically Bwung
around by a cam action, carrying the
baggage iuto the car. The lift is oper
ated by air drawn from the train tanks
to a speoial reservoir, and it is con
trolled by the baggageman. The ma
chine has a lifting capacity of COO
pounds, with seventy pounds of air
pressure; it has a spring scale device
providing for the weighing of the bag
gage as it is handled, and it is able to
load trunks at the rate of six pieces
every thirty-five seconds. For coun
try stations where now there is only
one man to handto the baggage with
the usual disastrous results, this de
vice will save many a trnnk from be
ing damaged or smashed.
If you wish to hear looomotive bells
rung by compressed air you must take
a train on the Kansas City, St. Joseph
& Council Bluffs Railroad, on which
line a number of prominent bell ring
ers are iu operation, giving admirable
results.
AIR TOOLS FOR BRIDGE DUILDINO.
It would be impossible to do the
high class work of modern bridge
building construction without the aid
of air tools. All the world pricked
tip its multitudinous ears when the
suooess of American builders in build
ing bridges in Africa within a previ
ously uuapproaohed time limit was
established beyond doubt. The
press was very busy and patriotio on
the subject, but forgot entirely to state
the reason why the superior swiftness
and workmauship of the engineer had
been made possible, The firm which
erected the Atbara and other bridges,
attributes its success aside from an
admirable system of orgbnization, to
the extensive employment ofjpneumat
io maohiues.UThe most diffloult and
time-oonsumlng work, which was form
erly done by hand, is now done at a
much quicker rate and in better shape
by air tools in every modern American
bridge shopThere abpngfjf
ifuvuiuaviur .
air dri!twr llUH'.veruil to tllOU"
tn. if
t.
pors and so on, all of which enter into
the work of modern construction, ac
celerating production Immensely, while
improving the product. But if there
is any one tool that is moro indispen
sable than tho rest it is tho pneumatic
hammer, which makes possible tho
various and difficult forms of riveting,
calking and chiseling. This hammer
consists of a cylinder in which a piston
reciprocates, delivering a continuous
series of blows against the end of tho
die. The hammer is light and pow
erful. For small rivets it can be held
in the hand, but for heavier work it is
supplied with a yoke support, and
thus fitted it will drive and fit the
largest sizo rivets in use, which are
generally one-inch in diameter. Prob
ably the hardest manual labor iu ship
and bridge building is riveting. Com
bined with this is an amount of tech
nical skill acquired oulybylong aud
arduous apprenticeship, and varying
with the class of rivets driven. Iu
additiou the necessity for heavier
plating, doublings, etc, requires the
use of larger and longer rivets, which
cannot bo properly closed dowu by
baud. The pneumatio hammer in tho
practical device which has enabled
builders to surmount thee and other
obstacles. The air tool al9o saves
money.
AMLIAS CHIMES.
New York may know that in the
chimes of St. Patrick's Cathedral on
Fifth avenue, the oity possesses one
of the finest orchestras of this kind in
the world, but does New York know
that these bells are now rung by com
pressed air? Nineteen bells, the
heaviest of whioh weighs about six
thousand pounds, tho lightest about
three hundred pounds, constitute the
set, which has been placed iu the
northern spire, 180 feet above ground.
Electrioity is the trigger, and com
pressed air the power in this opera
tion. The largest orchestral chirao in
the world is that of the church of St.
Germain L'Auxerrois in Paris, which
set was finished in 1878. Their con
struction consumed fifteen years, but
they never ran successfully until last
year. Thero are forty-four bells in
the set, which, it is said, will be opera
ted by compressed air to welcome vis
itors to the Paris Exposition.
It might boro the lay reader to de
scribo the new air-tight system for
pumping artesian wells, the hundred
and one handy little inventions, such
as pneumatic track eanders for loco
motivos, sand-blasting machines for
removing the scale from metals of all
kinds, coal cutters, etc.; butthore are
a few things in the way of ''air novel
ties" which are most interesting.
Take tho work of basket-making.
Surely no one ever heard of any of
the old machines turning out 180
bushel baskets au hour, or 1800
baskets a day, but a compressed air
basket-making machine is now doing
it at Traverse City, Mich.
Then there is the fountain air-brush,
whioh some say will soon bo adopted
by artists for applying color on oan
vas. It is shaped like, and is ' but
little larger than, a lead pencil, is
handled iu tho came manner, applies
color in largo quantities in a short
time, and is adjustable for the finest
lines.
MISCELLANEOUS I'RES.
the pneumatio mail-tube dispatch
system has now developed so fast in
this country that even eight-iuc'a
tubes, Jwitb cartridges carrying 000
letters, are in successful operation.
Tho longest circuit ever built iu the
world is the niiv.Ti line recently laid in
New York City, extending from the
termicrul Postoffioe to the Grand Cen
tral branch Postofflce, a distance of
three and one-half miles.
A method of sweeping and oleaning
railroad stations by compressed air
blowers has been instituted by the
Central Railroad of New Jersey. It
has been found that sweeping and
scrubbing and oleauing can be done
far more effectually with air than iu
any other way. Gangs of men fur
nished with compressed air-blowers
are turned loose after working hours
upon the floors of various buildings.
They go over every square inch of
surface, and over the walls and the
furniture with the blowers, which
sweep every speck of dust and dirt
before them, doing the work much
better than double the help could do
with brooms. The railroad hands
have found many uses for the com
pressed air, whioh is so handy for
them. They find that it will clean
clothes and fine fabrics as well as
plush Beats and carpets, aud dozens
of them take their clothes and uni
forms to the men who handle the
oompressed air, to be cleaned. The
work takes but a few seconds, is
done thoroughly, and has the ad
vantage of costing nothing. The men
have also found another and still more
unique use for the air.
"I never pay for a shampoo any
more," is a common saying around
the yards now. "I can get the best
shampoo to be had right here for
nothiug. How, d'ye Bay? compressed
airt"
A Uood Trick.
A waudering tleight-of-hand man
was entertaining some louugors with
an exhibition of his tricks. After
showing a good number of them he
said:
"But 1 have one good trick that I
call the quarter trick."
Of course they all wanted to see
that, so he instructed a good number
of tbem to give him a silver quarter of
a dollar, after having marked it and
carefully noted the date. About a
dozen of the bystanders did so, and
he took them all, shook them up, and
then showed each man another
quarter thau the one he had marked,
accompanying each quarter with the
question;
"Is that yours?"
Eaoh man, of course, said "No,"
and he strolled away, saying:
"Then they must all be mine,"
The Piano In AtcliUon.
Why learn to play the piano? Miss
Ida Simmons, a wonderfully clever
performer, came to Atchison n short
time ago, and only a dozen people
turned out to hear her. She has
spent fifteen or twenty years in the
hardest sort of practice, and is really
a wonderful performer; she can do
wonderful things with her fingers,
but what of it? People don't care if
she oan. Anyway, they will not go to
hear her play. Why should mothers
compel their daughters to practice
four or five hours a dar. and anuov the
I neighbors? AtcM.ou (Kan.) Globe.
MAINE'S INDIAN PRINCESS.
lUlnrated and Acconipllahed, Hho I.I re
With Her Tribe on an Inland.
Near Bangor, Maine, is living to
day a real Indian Princess. She is
Miss Maud Loring, daughter of Peol
Loring "Big Thunder" wise man,
historian, medicine man, and general
prophet of the Tarratiuos, who is the
son of a former chief, who, in turn,
was the son of a big sachem. Maud,
whose Indian name is "Bright Eyes,"
is rather a pretty girl of eighteen, aud
she leads the most luxnrious life of any
Indian iu Maine. She is tho pet of
the tribe, and alto of the priests who
come to say mass in the chapel on In
dian Island, while the Sisters of
Mercy who teach the dusky little chil
dren iu the Iudian school have put
the Princess through a course that
would fit any but a very stupid youug
woman to shine in society.
Maud can speak the Abenaki tongue,
which is, or was, the language of the
Indians of all Down East, iu addition
to French and English. She can play
waltzes on the piano and Catholic
hymus on the chapel orgau; she can
work slippers of soft deer skia in the
most wonderful of bright embroid
eries, paint hunting scenes on minia
ture canoes, war clubs and paddles;
she has a good contralto voice, and she
can paddle a canoe, row an oar in a
batteau, set a bear trap, shoot arrows
straighter than William Tell ever
thought of, aud pick a partridge off a
limb with any kind of a gun as fur as
she can soo the bird.
Once many and powerful, now
dwindled to a few hundreds, the Tar
ratines dwell upon au island in the
Penobscot, thirteen miles above Ban
gor. They are half French Canadian,
but Ihey still look like the red men of
old. The French blood makes no
show against the Indian in their veius.
They work at basket making and also
fashion countless pretty things that
ure sold readily at the agency store to
visitors or at the seaside resorts. Ca
noes, real and miuiaturo, gaily deco
rated paddles, war clubs carved fanoi
fnlly and stained staringly iu red,
green and yellow, bows and arrows,
and a hundred other things they
make, working silently and patiently
with materials brought in winter time
on sledges over twenty, forty, some
times a hundred miles of frozen crust.
The tribe owns a lot of litllo islands
in the river above tho one ou which
their village is located, and from tho
cultivation of these lands aud the
rental of tho shore privileges to lum
bermen they gain a part of their liv
ing, the rest coming from the fancy
work described, from work in the
woods, or on the log drives and from
the interest of a fund held in trust by
tho State, this latter yielding about
81500 a year, which is devoted to the
care of the poor, the purchase of med
icines, etc.
Some of the men earn a good deal
of money in the hunting season by
aoting as guides for moose and deer
hunters. Tho younger men are
among the 'best log drivers on the
PenoVjsoot River, which means the
"best in the world. New York Sun.
The Correct Style uf Skirt.
There is a controversy as to what is
tho oorreot style of skirt. The smart
tailors are turning out the olose-fit-ting
habit skirt with a seam dowu tho
back, or with a circular back aud a
seam in front, while, on the othe.t
hand, some of the very sinartost im
ported cloth costumes have double
box-pleats directly in the centre of the
book, or a box-pleat iu tho back and a
pleat on either side. Aud others,
ugaiu, have a Bide panel made entirely
of pleats. Eaoh aud all must needs
have a most careful fittiug around the
hips, for fashion demands everythiug
very close-fitting, until half-way down
the skirt, aud from there down the
(skirt must begiu to flare, until at the
foot it flares much more than it has
for some time.
The most attractive skirt turned out
by one of the leading Paris houses is
iu a light gray cloth. It is made to
opeu iu front and show a small shaped
front broadth, is trimmed on either
side with a band of velvot the exaot
color of the cloth, aud has straps of
velvet that fusten the sides together.
The bottom of the skirt is cut in scal
lops that fall over a scant bias flounce
and that are outlined with velvet.
Another of the new skirts is made
with a double box-pleat in the centre
of tho back, a plain front and side
breadth, and on each breadth bands
of velvet ribbon outlined with gold
braid and put ou in graduated sizes.
The plain habit skirts are almost
invariably absolutely plain ; if they are
trimmed, it is with braiding. Still
another style of cloth gown, that is
made in the habit fashion with a
perfectly plaiu baok, has a band of
velvet half way down the skirt, and
above this baud of velvet the material
is embroidered with chenille dots of
different sizes. Altogether it would
seem as though there had never been
so many different styles of skirts, aud
yet with one point to be considered in
all that they must fit perfeotly, and
are almost without exception made
with the drop skirt. Harper's Bazar,
Adventure of Harone Burdelt-Coutt.
An amusing experience of the Bar
oness Burdett-Coutts is going the
rounds. The Uaroness was once shop
ping in Paris and was passed from one
department to another by the shop
men, always witn tne remark, "Two-
ten." She was escorted from counter
to oounter, and everywhere the oabal
istio words "two-ten" were repeated.
Struok by the peculiarity of this re
frain, the Baroness asked the proprie
tor as she left the establishment:
"Pray what does 'two-ten' mean? I
noticed eaoh assistant said it to the
other whenever I went in your shop."
"Uh, it is nothing," he replied:
"morely a password that they are in
the habit of exchanging."
But the Baroness was not satisfied
with this explanation, so in the even
ing, when the porter, a young man,
brought home herpurohases, she said:
"My boy, would you like to earn
five francs?" '
Of oourse, he bad no objeotion.
"Tell me," said the lady, "what
does 'two-ten mean and I will give
you five f ratios."
"Yuy, flout you know, ma'am?" said
he, evident astounded at her igtror-
anco. "It means 'keep your two eye
on her ten fingorsl' "
The mystery was solved. Thoshop
men of the Trois Quartiers bad taken
thn richest and most generous woman
in Great Britain for a shoplifter,
London Tit-Bits.
It 1 Trne
That skirts are less tight.
That sleeves are tighter, but broador
on the shoulders.
That street dresses are shorter, but
house dresses, if possible, longer.
That an untrimtned skirt, unless it
belong ,o a severe tailor dress, is a
rare as a white blackbird.
That the newest bodices are made
with boleros.
Or, for house. wear, with basques.
Or with ouirasse corsages cut in
front like stays.
That the newest tailor dresses have
short Eton coats or test jackets of al
lied varieties.
That the redingote, the princess
dress and the poLonaise are leading
styles.
That tho newest capes and victo
ries, in cloth or fur, have the 1830
style of drooping shoulders.
That velvet gowns will be the height
of fashiouablo elegance.
That soft, brilliant, long-faced sable
cloth is the most bsautiful of tho new
materials.
That cote de cheval, which looks
liko the sheeny coat of a well-groomed
horse, aud a variety of gold aud silver
dusted silk aud chenille-embroidered
stuffrf, are the promising novelties.
Hint the pastel colors, even for
cloth dresses, still enjoy a vogue, and
that, except for red and a few shades
of orange for trimmings, the general
preference is for neutral aud subdued
tones.
That lace, fringe and bonnnz work,
which includes many varieties of ap
plique and embroidery, are the ap
proved trimmings.
Wavy Hair.
Most important in waving the hail
in the great undulations which are so
popular for the pompadour effect just
at present is to make it look as natural
as possible. The poiut of difference
between naturally wavy hair and waves
created by the curling iijon is that the
former undulate evenly and match all
over the head, no matter from what
part the hair be combed. Tho waves
fit into eaoh other. The artificial
wavelets are all sizes, and jog atevory
inch or so, showing an unevenness of
heat iu tho iron and no regard for
makiug euds fit together.
While it is not possible to perfectly
counterfeit nature, still, having dooi
ded upon the sort of coiffure desired,
the waves cau be manufactured stir-
prisiugly even. The first lock having
been waved, all others must match it
in size and direction as it tho whole
head were waved in oue impression of
the hot irou. This can be doue ac
curately by taking a few hairs from
the first look and comblu'tig it with
the second to measure the waves.
This must be continued all around
the first lock, and extend all around
the head. Only in this way cau a
waved coiffure be made effective. The
iron must also be of even temperature
throughout the whole process, other
wise one wave will be tighter than au
other. When properly done the most
pimple arrangement is beautiful.
Rich Women n Houflekneper.
, The old idea that a careful walch
over the servants and household af
fairs is beneath the dignity of women
of wealth and position is beiug grad
ually dispelled, and many women io
fashionable lifo, as well as in ciroles
less importunt socially, now feel that
the role of chatelaine is oue to take
pride iu. Mrs. Russell Sage is an ad
mirable housekeeper, looking dowu to
the smallest particular. Miss Helen
Gould understands all the miuutiie of
housekeeping, and with a big white
apron tied about her waist may fre
quently be seen attending personally
to her establishment. During the
days following the awful Windsor fire
she and Mrs. Sage worked indefatig
ably, spreading sandwiches and pouring
oonue ror tue refreshment of the work
ingraen busied iu searching the ruins
of that ill-fated house. Mrs. Willie
K. Vanderbilt, Jr., goes to market
eaoh morniug while at Newport, mak
ing a personal selection of fruits,
meats aud fish for her table, aud pay
ing cash for her purchases au uu.
heard-of thing among Newport cot
tagers. Party Finery For Little Girl.
Party frocks are almost as necessary
an adjunct to the little girl's wardrobe
in this progressive age as they are to
her grown-up sister. For the real
short-frocked tots white, pearl, pink
or blue slippers and stockings are
usually favored, depending upon tho
color of the dress worn. Silks in plain
or open weave look better thau lisle
or cotton, as they fit closer and are as
a rule iu better coloring; and then
they look well as long as they last,
whereas the others fade. Girls who
havo come into their teens may also
wear white and light-colored shoes
and stockings, though growing girls
with large feet wear plain black Freuoh
kid or patent-leather. Sashes are
much worn, and may be of ribbon or
chiffon, as boat suits the gown. Some
tie in a severe bow at the back and
have long ends, while others knot at
the side and havo ends finished with
fringe. It hair-ribbons are worn they
match the sash or the stookings. A
pretty fancy for the hair is the wear
iug of flowers instead of the old-time
ribbon. Woman's Home Companiou.
How the Duche of Marlborough Live
The duahess' time is not so ninoh
given up to society as had been that
of some ot her predecessors. She is
devoted , to charitable works, and the
villagers never tire ot repeating tales
ot her Grace's goodness. No oue
form of charity commands her atten
tion more thau other, unless it may
be her work among the children of
the Blenheim tenantry, aud those of
the neighboring villages. Many are
the "treats" aud pionios they receive
at her expense.
On Sunday ths duke and duchess
usually attend the little Woodstock
churoh, one of the oldest and most
historical buildings in the village.
Occasionally they attend service in
their own chapel in the palace, where
ths ohaplain preaches from an alabas
ter pulpit. Under the marble floor ot
this chapel are buried all the Dukes
and Duchesses of Marlborough. Ains.
let's.
me ..
Mi
IPOPULAR St?
The musoular streiif ' j
been studied by a Oei;
with a speoial dynati'' '
10,000 separate oxpon, ,
that the average man ' I
reaches his maximum,
Age of about thirty-oiif
seventeen he can lift w.
277 pounds; at twenty, ,
thirty-one, 400 pouml'i
pounds; at fifty, S2H Bjh
seventy, 240 pounds. 4V
Tungsten, obtaiueilf Of
in pure speoimens by r.e,
nxide by aluminum, Ls
by Professor R. Staves
lin. The metal is hard, na
than zinc, and is infuse
trio are. It is practic.(
acids, even in aqua re,.
is dissolved slowly ijt
potash. This metal, iiJ.,
is of much practical
sount of tho hurduess1
steel. t
The element fluorin.
powerful reagent the r. '
nis disposal. Its use
strioted, however, by
that it would destroy a
aept that constructed
lead or fluorspar, but ym
lately shown that ve
re only slightly attack '
of insoluble fluoride ot if
formed over the metal, j
nan be employed even
trolysis ot hydrofluoric
ir
Poisoning by eggs ol
forms is the curious p;i.
nraoy reported to the JS
Journal. Even when in
is in the minutest qua.e(
young lady suffers rig
ing, the tongue beoomiu
dry and the throat soi- J
headache and pain in Uc
symptoms oontinue frca
to two days. They ap;."'
the egg is disguised d
and a small quantity an
placed on the skin p;
rash. Vi
In a recent numbeim
gist is to be found an iirj
on the method used Iron
turing .insects. The j)T
walking carries its tn
ward and inward, so:rr
brane joining it to the 11
pouch or bag, into wl
sect can be pushed after
This is done by slightly 'j
folded wings, bringing i
ward to increase the ct
tail pouch, and then bet P
and thrusting the Lea
body. In spite of viol
the insect rarely escape? 1
what similar method i'
tho hat when on the neo
been noticed toalwaysb.b
so as to form a reoe 11
Prey.
lei
Tho Champion Foin
The "sporting" editor"
responsible for tha folk,
story:
One of the most renin'1
ing experiences is tbatt"
torn fox" which for lei
puzzled and baffled tl?n'
Madison County, Kentfi
after week the fox wa-jj
after running the hornet
death, its trail wa9 lc,d
grass" pasture iu th:t
neighborhood. JJ,
The news of this stra.p.
ance came to tho cars'!
blind fox-hunter, cull-1
who, in spite of his lack
one of the most daring i
riders to hounds iu tl
follows the hounds alon
Kentucky cliffrf, goiusjj
over ground where the 1 1
men dare scarcely fol''11
knows every nook ami cai
cliffs, aud when he come
ly dangerous point bm
takes hold of his horse'
auimal takes him safely ft
A hunt was arranged I id
benefit, and the plia:
started on his laBt run, J
ing him from 8 o'clock lc
he reached the pasture, vj
trace of him was sudden t
teriously lostr-.
Johnson, mounted on
horse, led the chase thro1t
on reaching the paHtur.-J
tinkling ot bells, and wh'm
flock of sheep was grazi:-'
ture. "That explains tal
at once said the bliuil
will find the fox ou the lei
those sheep."
And they did socor
above-mentioned spoitic -
n
Noon Ulnnera
It ha ring beeu rumore
the English custom of t':
the afternoon, after ofllctt
begun to gain ground in C
land, the German Got(
it into its head to iuvi.d
novation as affecting c '
ditions. So au inquirrf
Bremen, a great couiuk
It appears that the Uority,
is still almost nuanimuui "
day dinner; and the
is this: Euglishmeu
mails have the habit ol
to be attended to the n
ixermsns, wim tueir c
and later oftloe hours, ei
swer thoir late mails
In this way they seourei
for promptness, fund the'
often get au order which
to their English compete
is the thrift of the Get
suoh watchfulness of
is that they are making 'J
able strides In the eouiit
-The Pathfinder. f
A Studied Prot
A young lady was L
arily as hostess, and K
much oooupied. One oCl
nervous and absent-u
perceived that this ;L
case, and to facilitate
termiued to bring affn'1'
lie didn't gee a chance. ;i
"Afterward," says the '
ill-starred devotion,
memorandum ou the fl'-f
had dropped it in bit
reads thus: I
" 'Mention rise in salt'
loveliness. Mention pl(
society. Mention. pr
Unole Jim. Never loved
pose.' "Collier's Week'.;
nt'sr mm sriwuiin