THS Et«)i©TS Off AW©N-
Kew York City.—The popularity of
the bolero appears to increase as the
season advances. In Its latest form
it is collarless and includes elbow
PEASANT WAIST WITH BOLKKO AND
GIItPLE.
sleeves. For afternoon wear it is made
of velvet cloth and taffeta, and is
worn over a waist of soft silk. For
morning wear it is shown in French
flannel, and is worn over an unllned
waist of the same or of figured India
surah, as preferred. The May Man
ton model shown is in Russian green
broadcloth, with the waist of soft fin
ished taffeta in a harmonizing lighter
shade with girdle, collar and cuffs of
velvet in a shade deeper than the
cloth. The bolero is edged with a band
of the material machine stitched and
has a trimming of small gold buttons
arranged in groups.
The foundation for the waist is a
GOWN.
lining cut with back and fronts only
and fitted with single darts, which
close nt the centre front. On it are
arranged the shirred fronts, the right
Bide of which extends over the centre
of the lining and closes Invisibly at
the left side beneath the jacket. The
sleeves are in bishop style, with
straight pointed cuffs that close at the
seam and hook over invisibly. At the
neck is a (stock with turn-over collar
attached. The girdle is shaped, gath
ered at the front and smoothly drawn
to tit the figure, forming soft folds
that meet at the front. The bolero is
entirely separated from the waist, and
includes a smooth back and fronts
fitted with single darts. The sleeves
are one-seamed, and are shaped at the
lower edge where they are faced and
turned over to form cuffs or allowed
to fall in bell style, as preferred.
To cut this waist for a woman of me
dium size, three and three-eighth
yards of material twenty-one inches
wide, two and three-quarter yards,
twenty-seven Inches wide, or one and
one-eight yard, forty-four inches wide,
will be required, with two yards of
material twenty-one inches wide, one
and a half yard twenty-seven inches
wide, or one yard forty-four or fifty
inches wide, for bolero, :.nd one yard
of bias velvet for girdle, turn-over col
lar and cuffs.
Gown For Housework.
Every woman who is called upon to
perform such household tasks as dust
ing and the like recognizes the ne
cessity for a suitable gown. The May
Manton design Illustrated in the large
cut is essentially practicable and is so
completely simple as to commend it
self at a glance. Preferably it is made
of washable stuff, such as percale, in
order that it may be laundered and
made fresh at need; but flannelette is
entirely suitable when greater warmth
Is required, as is any inexpensive light
weight woolen material. With the
gown should be worn the simplest of
npcktles and belts.
The waist is in Spencer *tyle, and
differ? froju a shirt waist in extenriinir
' to the waist line only. The back fits
s smoothly across the shoulders and is
i drawn down at the waist. The fronts
are gathered at the neck and again
at the waist line, and the entire lower
edge of the waist is attached to the
upper edge of the belt. The sleeves
are in bishop style and are finished
with pointed cuff bands that lap over
at the seam and hook invisibly into
place. At the neck is a shapely stand
ing collar. The waist is closed at the
front with buttons and buttonholes.
The skirt is cut in live gores and
falls only to the floor. It fits smooth
ly across the front and about the
hips, and is arranged in gathers at the
back. The placket is made at the 4eft
front seam, where it closes invisibly,
and the upper edge of the skirt is at
tached to the lower edge of the belt,
the left half of the front gore being
attached to the extra portion and
hooked over into place.
To cut this gown for a woman of
medium size seven and a half yards
of material twenty-seven inches wide,
seven yards thirty-two inches wide,
or six yards forty-four inches wide,
will be required.
The Flare Keriuced.
It is noticeable that on new model*
of winter jackets or winter capes and
cloaks the collar is carefully cut, so
that the flare is much reduced from
its former proportions. This looks
better when the jacket is seen from
the side or from the rear.
Woman's Russian Waist.
Russian styles are always comforta
ble and desirable and are, just now,
in the height of style. The smart May
Mautou example illustrated is a waist
at once simple and extremely tasteful.
The model is made from the new vi.
cuna waist cloth in Russian blue with
piping of black taffeta stitching ill
black silk and cut steel buttons, but
flannel, cashmere, taffeta, and all the
familiar waist materials are equally
appropriate. As shown the waist is
cut pointed edge that renders it pecu
liarly smart, but the points can bo
omitted aud the edge left plain, aa
shown in the small cut, if desired.
The foundation for the waist is a
fitted lining with single darts in fronts
and centre seam in back only. The
back proper is seamless, fits smoothly
across the shoulders, the slight fuluosa
being drawn down at t.he waist line.
The fronts are simply gathered in
slight fulness at the neck and gath
ered in at the waist, while they blouse
slightly over the stylishly curved belt.
The sleeves are in bishop style with
pointed cuff bands that hook over in
visibly. The neck is finished with
high stock collar having a pointed end.
To cut this waist for a woman of
RUSSIAN WAIST.
medium size three afW a quarter yardt
of material twenty-one inches wide,
three yards twenty-seven inches wide,
i ct two yards foriy-four inches wide,
will be imnlrm.'
NEW WAYS OF COWBOYS
CHANCED METHODS ON CATTLE RAN
GES OF THE SOUTHWEST,
Old-Time Cattle Barons Would Become
Bankrupt In These Days of Economy—
Cowpunchers Toned Down-The Texas
Steer's Lost Horns—Greater Humanity.
A Holbrook, Arizona, village on the
red, muddy bank of the Itio Colorado
In northeastern Arizona Is the most Im
portant cattle market In the Territories
and is the rendezvous of cowboys and
vaqueros from all this region, writes
a correspondent of the New York Sun.
From April to December, almost every
day, carloads of cattle are started from
Holbrook toward Kansas City, Chica
go and Omaha. Last year more than
130,000 head of cattle were shipped
eastward from this little frontier town,
and there is little doubt that the ship
ments this year will foot up about
148,000, worth, on the cars here, about
(3,350,000. In the early spring months,
when the shipping season opens, it is
common to see 10,000 or 12,000 cattle
bunched together in the enormous cor
ral along the railroad tracks.
There is an abundance of material
for the seeker of picturesque In this
cattle community. At almost any houi
in the day during the spring and fall
months the main street in Holbrook Is
mouths the main sreet in Holbrook is
lively with from 100 to 200 horses from
the ranges. Every horse carries a
huge saddle a lariat hanging In coils
from the pommel and a blanket rolled
and tied at the rear. . Some saddles are
elaborately decorated with silver tacks
and emblems, and the the bridles on
many horses cost several times more
than the animal themselves are worth.
There are knots of cowboys here and
there on the street, while all the sa
loons are tilled with them 20 out of
every 24 hours. They wear great gray
felt sombreros with gaudy leatliei
straps for bands, skin tight trousers
and short fancy coats witli showy but
tons. All of them wear high boots
with high and sharp heels, and four
3fths of them carry a belt of cartridges
about the waist and one or two shin
iug and finely constructed revolvers at
their hips. Sometimes there are drunk
en, swaggerinr swearing cowboys
who raise a dill in Holbrook, but a
large majority of the cowboys, in the
Southwest, at lent, are decent sort of
fellows, who are proud of their ad
turous work and their skill among
cattle, and despise the drunken fellow
who brags about a bar and thinks it
fun to shoot to frighten other people.
The changes in the methods of cattle
ranching in the Southwest during the
last ten years have removed a large
element of romantic picturesqueness.
The famous cattle barons of the West
of 25 and 30 years ago could not keep
out of bankruptcy in these days of
strict business methods and careful
economy on the ranges if they followed
the old methods. Economy and com
mercial prudence are at the bottom of
tin' innovations on the cattle ranges.
The financial disaster? which de
throned many a rich cattle king from
I.SS7 to 18! iS have necessitated econo
mies where prodigal waste once pre
vailed. Trick. of saving, once thought
contemptible, are in vogue in all up
to-date ranges. Nowadays the bones
of cattle are saved and sold. No one
thinks of leaving the pelt on an animal
found dead on the range. Time was
when such economy was despised and
left for the poor half-breed Indians.
Even the piles of horns left after de
horning operations are over are now
collected and made a source of reve
nue. The fertilizer that went to waste
on the ranges is shipped at so much
a ton to horticultural districts in Cali
fornia and Colorado for use in the or
chards. Cowboys are fined for drunk
enness on the range nowadays. A gen
eration ago the cattle kings bought
whiskey and brandy by the barrel foi
the cowboys to help themselves to.
By new methods time and wear and
tear on the horses are saved. A half
dozen horses and cowboys to do twice
as much work and cover twice as
much teritory as formerly. The brand
ing of calves is done by time-saving
contrivances. A dozen inventions have
been made In cattle cars whereby the
loss from the trampling to death of
animals while in transit to market has
been mininlized, and, also, by which
more stock may be putin a car.
In other particulars the conditions
have changed also. In former years
the round-ups each spring, generally
about May, were trying times with
the cowboys. Where 15,000 or 20OK)
calves were to be cut out of a herd
and branded the work often extended
over a month, but under the later
methods the work is very materially
lessened. Now, instead of having to
throw and tie each unbranded calf aiul
steer the animals are cut out and run
into a separate herd. They are then
driven into aiMkiclosure where is an
outlet so narrow as to permit the mov
ing of only one animal at a time.
There, as fast as the string of animals
pass, a branding iron is extended
through the open cracks of the heavy
fence and the necessary decoration
made upon the flank of each calf.
Yet even with all the Improvements
the round-up remains a feature of
ranch life. Here Is the greatest op
portunity for the cowboy to display
liis dexterity with the lasso and his
horsemanship. Some ranches at the
round-up season require 400 or 500
horses. The riding is always fast and
furious and seldom is an animal used
more than two hours consecutively.
The famous Strasburg clock, which
gave all the movements of the sun,
moon and planets, was constructed
550 years ag^
coated
L4 K
► Look at your tongue. 4
.4 Is it coated ? %
\ Then you have a baa
► taste in your mouth every 4
4 morning. Your appetite ►
► is poor, and food dis- *
/ tresses you. You have %
4 frequent headaches and
► are often dizzy. Your *
< stomach is weak and
4 your bowels are always
t constipated. 4
4 There's an old and re- ►
liable cure:
PillS :
► <
4 Don't take a cathartic ►
► dose and then stop. Bet-
► ter take a laxative dose \
4 each night, just enough to
► cause one good free move- 4
* ment the day following.
% You feel better the
t very next day. Your 4
4 appetite returns, your ►
* dyspepsia is cured, your
► headaches pass away, \
4 your tongue clears up, t
► your liver acts well, and 4
* your bowels no longer *.
4 give you trouble. >
Price, 25 cents. All druggists.
k made. One pill does me more good J
j than half a box of any other kind I
have ever tried." *
► Mrs N. E. TALBOT, 4
\ March 30, 1899. Arrington, Kans.
► V ▼▼▼▼▼▼▼ *
AFRICAN DIAMONDS.
First Discovered by an Irishman. John
O'Reilly.
Mr. John O'Reilly, who had occasion
In the winter of 1867 to do business in
the Hopetown District of Griqualand
West, on the other side of the Vaal
river, first discovered diamonds in
South Africa. He passed a night at
the house of Schalk van Niekerk, a
Dutch farmer. While bartering with
the Boer and his wife O'Reilly's at
tention was attracted by a game the
children were playing, being particu
larly struck with the peculiar trans
parency of one of the pebbles used in
the game. Though O'Reilly had never
seen a diamond in the rough he ex
pressed an opinion that the pebble
played with by the children was really
the precious gem. The farmer ridi
culed the idea, saying O'Reilly might
have it if he cared for the rubbish,
adding that there were plenty more of
them in the river clay. O'Reilly accept
ed it on the understanding that if it
turned out to be a diamond the farm
er should receive half the sum. At
Colesburg it was submitted to experts
most of whom denied it being of much
value, but Dr. Atherstone, of Grahams
town, pronounced it to be a veritable
diamond weighing karats and
worth £SOO. The then governor oi
the Cape, Sir Philip Wodehouse
bought It for that sum. Diamonds
ifterwards were found in the mud
walls of native huts, and this led to th«
opening of the dry diggings where now
stand Du Toits Pan, De Beers, Kim
berley, Bultfontein and the Premiei
mine.
LUCKY PREACHER
Hakes a Fortune In Mining Stoolcs and
Fays Off Church Mortgage.
Shrewd investment in Arizona min
ing properties has raised Rev. Larkin
A. Rockwell, pastor of the West Pull
man M. E. church, from his position
as a struggling minister on a small
salary to a man of affluence. Several
years ago he began buying stock in
the Azurite, Twine Beauties and other
old mines in Arizona. His investments
turned out so profitably that a short
time ago he was able to announce to
his congregation that he himself would
pay off the mortgage of $2,500 which
rested over the little church where he
presided as pastor. At the same time
he resigned his salary, as he said his
own income was adequate for the sup
port of his family. Rev. Mr. Rock
well was formerly pastor of the Sec
ond Methodist church at Englewood.
When he accepted the call to West
Pullman he found thai, church Incum
bered by a mortgage and the congre
gation hardly more than able to keep
up the interest. The mining invest
ments of Mr. Rockwell are reputed to
have made him worth $500,000. He is
at present in Ariaona looking after
his Investments. He has in view other
charitable dispensations on his return.
—Chicago Tlmss-HeraM.
Boston's Ignorance of Celebrities.
The Boston Athenaeum has long
contained three busts which no one In
that city was able to Identify. The
assistant llbarian, a young woman, has
lust recognised them as excellent like
ness of Lewis Cass, the great states
man; Nicholas Biddle, one of the most
>miuent financiers of the century, and
1 Russian prince, famous all over the
ft'orld.
Shooting Stars.
According to Camillle Flammarion,
a well-known authority, what are call
ed "shooting stars" are small bodies,
weighing at most a few pounds, and
consisting mainly of iron and carbon.
They traverse space in swarms and
also revolve around the sun In long
elliptical courses like comets. When
these little bodies enter the sun's orbit
they are deflected toward the earth and
great numbers of them are seen In a
single night. Their brightness is due
to the heat engendered by the energy
of their motion. Their speed Is enor
mous, 4V& kilometers a second, while
the speed of the earth on its orbit is
only 5 kilometers a second. Conse
quently when a shower of them ap
proaches the earth In the direction op
posite to Its course, the Initial speed
Is 72 kilometers a second; when they
follow on its course they gain
kilometers a second on it. Their
mean rate of approach is between 30
and 40 kilometer® a second. The fric
tion engenders a temperature of 3,000
degrees, Celsius, subject to which they
burst into flame.
Iluntltic Malaria Microbes.
Xt is announced that Prof. Koch, bac
teriologist, of Berlin, who has lately
been hunting the microbe of malaria
in Java and other hot countries, has
perfected a medicine which is to be of
the highest value in all malarial coun
tries. It is half quinine, is to be used
hypodermically and also as a swallow
medicine, and is commended both as a
cure and as a preventive of malaria.
Malaria is very much on the minds of
wise men in many countries just now.
The disposition to blame it all on the
mosquito is supported so far by many
experiments. Not only has health been
maintained in malarious districts
where effectual precautions against
mosquitoes have been taken, but Ital
ian mosquitoes fed in Rome on ter
tian-fever patients and brought to
London and allowed to bite a healthy
man have infected him with tertian
fever. If the rule, "no mosquito, no
malaria," be demonstrated, it will be
a great gain, for mosquito bites are
not so unavoidable as may be thought.
Twlno Made In Penitentiaries.
Minnesota's binding-twine plant, es
tablished in the state penitentiary, is
as much a success as the like institu
tion in Kansas. By this means the
problem of convict labor has been
solved in these two states to the satis
faction of about everyone concerned,
including the labor unions. Members
of the latter are gratified, as well as
satisfied, as penitentlary-maoe twine
is a direct slap at a trust. The farm
ers, too, are happy, as they get their
binding twine at from 3 to 5 cents less
a pound than Is charged for the prod
uct of the trust. The only complaint
in each state is that the penitentiary
plants are not large enough to supply
the demand. —New York Post.
FADED ill HER YOUTH
Pretty faces and graceful forms of young women ! Why is it they are s»
Boon replaced by plainness and lankness ? It is because the young gir) just
entering into womanhood does not know how to
take care of herself and has no one competent to
Mripggk instruct her. It is not necessary that there should
gßr w be anything weakening or wearying abou; the
functions of a female organism. Parents of j oung
girls should inform themselves and prevent theif
*7 dear ones from making costly errors.
That young woman has a just cause of com*
plaint, who is permitted to believe that great
MBBEB periodic suffering is to bo expected, that sever#
AjflW mysterious pains and aches are part of her
natural experience as a woman. These things
If Bfrgl are making constant war on her health, her dis
[l Ra 1 position and her beauty. It is a wanton sacri-
I 'II ■ 1 fice, absolutely unnecessary and cruel. It ia
JO Dr. Greene's
TUB or t ® ie ®' ood an( * Nerves
«DH H Dr. Greene's Nervura blood and nerve remedy
HI ER is the right medicine for every young girl wh»
IV 19 is just entering the first stage of womanhood,
■V n It prepares the system in every way to act nor*
QI El mally. It enriches the blood supply, and keeps
■I R the nerves calm and steady. Fortified with this
■■ H| great medicine, all the womanly duties may bo
8,1 HI undertaken and experienced without the slight*
HI Wm est jeopardy to health. It preserves the gifts of lm
lm nature and assists their development into glow*
L|H MRS. MART FRANCES LTTLE, of 2 Hunter
"I was very pale and delicate—had' no color,
BBlgß I took Dr. Greene's Nervura, blood and nerve remedy,
and now I am well and strong, my Hce is plump, and
BUIH cheeks red, and my complexion pure. ■'
MRS. WILLIAM BARTELS, 239 East 87th S»,
"Dr. Greene's Nervura made a wonderful improve
HMH9|V ment in my health, and that dark, sallow look left ml
KIIBMI face. My friends hardly know me. I have gained fles^
fflHll and am like a different person.
The nervousness in women whieh invariablj
comes with pain is of itself certain to stop the
development of beauty in face and figure. Ex*
cited nerves make sharp lines and hasty speech.
The beautiful curves which make women so
Attractive are not possible when the female organism is out of order, as it
snrely is when discomfort and pain are always or even periodically present.
It is only necessary to look in the faces of young women everywhere to see
that this must be so. Else why are they so pale and thin ?
OCT FREE ADVIOE FROM OR. GREENE
Real beauty is rare. It belongs to perfect health. It Is possible to every
women who takes the matter in hand intelligently. Get advice from Dr.
Qreeae. the great specialist la these matters. He will tell you why all this Is
so, and show you how to avoid the stumbling blocks that bar woman's way
to happiness. You may consult Dr. Qreene without cost by calling or writ
ing to Mm at his office, 35 West 14th Street. Naw York City. Don't throw
away your beauty. Write to Dr. Qreene to-day.
Invention of the Guillotine.
Some years before the terrible
French revolution of 1793 a learned
Parisian physician, Dr. Guillotin, turn
ed his attention to devising a mode ot
executing criminals that Xould be
more humane than hanging. He waa
a man of note in the scientific world
of his time, having introduced im
proved systems of ventilation and
other sanitary blessings much needed
in that period. So, when the French
national assembly convened in 1789 It
gave willing ear to his description of
a decapitating machine that would
"whisk off one's head in an instant,
quite without pain." Other matters
were pressing, however; there was no
money in the national treasury, and
the assembly took no action upon Dr.
Guillotin's plan. The matter seiemed
quite forgotten until the"reign of
terror" began. Then a machine Piade
after the doctor's idea suddenly ap
peared and was put into iirmediate
use. Its novelty caught the fancy of
the mobs who attended the daily exe
cutions, and it was quickly named "la
guillotin," after the man who had prc»
posed it. Dr. Guillotin, who had never
made a working model of his inven
tion and who had thought it quile for
gotten, was so heartbroken by ths ter
rible use to which his plan had been
put that he left France.
It requires no experience to dye with
PUTNAM FADELESS DYES. Simply boiling
your goods in the dye is all that Is necessary.
Within the Inst 20 years the numbei
of American and English female phy
sicians In Asiatic countries has in
creased from 20 to 220.
Best For the Bowels.
No matter what alls you, headache to •
oancer, you will never Ret well until yout
bowels are put right. CASCABETS help
nature, cure you without a gripe or pain,
produce easy natural movements, cost you
just 10 cents to start getting your health
back. GASCARETS Candy Cathartic, tbe
genuine, put up In metal boxes, every tab
let has C.C.C. stamped on It. Beware of
imitations.
A division of the wheat crop in Ellii
County, Kansas, would not give each resi
dent more than 1333 bushels.
T* Oar* ■ Cold In OB* Day.
Take LAXATIVI BROMO QCIKINI TAB LIT®. At
druggists rafund the money if it tail* to cure
K. W. GHOVB'S signature la on eacU box. 26c
Arctic dogs burrow under the snow, curl
up into the smallest possible bulk, and
thus sleep.
Mrs. Wlnslow'sSoothing Syrup forchtldrei
teething, softens the gums, reduces Inflamma
Hon. allays pain, cures wind nolle. Wc.« bottle
In China there is twenty times as mud
coal as in all Europe.
Indigestion Is a bad companion. Gel
rid ot It bv chewing a bar ot Adams' Ptp.
sin Tuttl Frutti after each meal.
A good camel will travel 100 miles a tfaj
for ten days through the desert.
Piso's Cure for Consumption is an infalH
We medicine for coughs nud colds.— N. W
SAMUEL, Ocean Grove, N. J., Feb. 17,1SUU.
More .than half the population of tin
earth has direct access to the Paci*ic.