I NEW YORK FA MOM, j
If Designs For Costumes That Have Be- S
H come Popular in the Metropolis. . i
NEW YOKK CITY (Special).—Few
materials are BO generally satisfactory
for fall weather wear as is cashmere
in its various colors. The charming
little gown shown in the illustration
A CHARMING LITTLE GOWN. J
amply exemplifies the fact, and is ad
mirably suited to both dark and light
tones, although the model is pale blue
banded with ribbon of the same
shade. The skirt, which is straight,
falls in graceful folds and is finished
with a deep hem. The waist, while
simple and childish, is rendered dressy
by the bertha, which, in this instance,
is white like the guirnpe, and made
of fine needlework-. The lining fits
snugly and closes together with the
bodice proper at the center bacK. As
shown the guimpe is made of tucked
material, but any plain, white goods,
LADIES' JACKET.
such as nainsook or Persian lawn, can
be substituted if preferred. At the
•waist is a belt of the ribbon with ro
settes made from a narrower width.
.To make this gown for a girl of six
years two and one-half yards of ma
terial thirty-six inches wide will be
required.
Jacket That Matches Skirt.
Stylish tailor-finished jackets that
mutch the skirt are made in this style
of broadcloth, vicuna, black aud col
ored cheviots, handsome coverts and
the latest weaves in French camel's
hair serge. In the large eugraving
gray choviot is illustrated with collar,
lapels and pocket-laps of velvet in a
very dark shade. The black is ren
dered close fitting with the usual
seams and the fronts may be finished
in box style or be fitted with single
bust darts. The fronts lap in slightly
double-breasted style, round flat crys
tal buttons effecting the closing. The
lower outline, wnich displays the dip
effect now fashionable, curves slight
ly over the hips, and the backs have
flatly pressed coat plaits at the
side and lap at the termination of
the center-back seam. Pockets are in
serted on each front, the openings be
ing covered with square laps. Above
the closing the fronts reverse in pret
tily rounded lapels that meet the roll
ing collar iu uneven notches. The
stylish coat sleeves are shaped with
under aud upper portions which may
have the fulness taken up in four short
darts or be gathered, if so preferred.
The buttons may be omitted and the
jacket finished with a fly closing, and
the collar lapels and pocket laps may
be of the material, strictly tailor fin
ished with machine stitching. Sepa
rate jackets in this style may be of
fawn, tan, brown, blue or black cloth,
cheviot, kersey or melton, braid or
Btraps of cloth giving a fashionable
completion when a more ornamental
effect is desired.
To make this jacket for a lady of
medium size will require ono and one
half yards of fifty-four-incli material.
Morning Jackets.
Soft silks, soft woolens, and even
cotton crepe cloths make very attrac
tive morning jackets.
When expense is no object, the pet
ticoat, or skirt, und jacket of figured
or flowered silk trimmed with ruffles
of lace is a delightful costume; but it
takes many yards of silk to make the
requisite number of ruffles on tho
skirt, and it takes a great many yards
of lace to trim both jacket and skirt
according to the correct style; conse
quently most women find it better and
much less expensive to have simply a
pretty morning jacket.
A good model is the one that fits
tight in the back, has a half-fitting
lining in the front, the front of the
jacket loose from the shoulders, tied
in with a ribbon belt that starts from
the side seams; the sleeves, medium
size, finished at the wrist with lace
ruffles; the collar a high one with a
lace tie in the front.
This can be had in any color or in
any material, is exceedingly pretty in
dotted Swifs, or even in some less ex
pensive cotton material, while in silk
with insertions of lace it is very smart
and attractive.
Dyed Guipure an Autumn Fanry.
A fancy of the autumn is dyed gui
pure, and a most comfortable sort
of gown it makes for out-of-door gath
erings. It is made over taffetas of
contrasting tone. Lavender blue linen
is another novelty which at this sea
son is being used a great deal. A
linen dressalways looks well for morn
ing wear, although some of them are
quite dressy affairs. One which has
a short bolero has pounded lapels fast
ened withra chonx of black satin. En
crustations of guipure and pipings of
mousseline de soiemade a gown of con
siderable effect.
New Neckwear*
It is said that velvet stocks are to
be revived for the coming winter, and
that velvet ribbon will be used exten-
sively for trimming gowns. The long
scarfs of tnlle or chiffon are retaining
their popularity and increasing their
length. Lace and net fichus and
jabots are reappearing, and the fashion
will probably grow, as the Empire
mode of dress seems to hold its own.
Skirt of Figured Lawn.
This stylish fikirt of figured lawn
is made without a lining, and simply
worn over a white or colored petticoat
of taffeta, lawn or nearsilk. It may
be trimmed with foot ruffles or decor
ated in auv desired way. The skirt
has smooth front and side gores that
Hare stylishly at the fulness
of the straight back breadth being
collected closely in gathers at the top,
from where it falls iu graceful iolds
to the lower edge where it measures
three and three-quarter yards in the
medium sizes. For drop skirts of thin
silk or foulard, this stylo is appro
priate, soft ruchings of mousseline de
soie, frillings of ribbon or bands of
insertion forming effective decoration.
Lawn, dimity, grenadine, madras,
percale, sateen, gingham and other
WOMAN'S SK.IBT.
thin or washable fabrics will develop
satisfactorily by the mode.
To make this skirt in the medium
size will require five yards of thirty
six •inch material.
a' '4
:-FQH WOMAN'S BENEFIT, 112
c*
Founded by Women for Men.
Miss Helen Gladstone, in an article
on the admission of women to the
Cambridge degrees, calls attention to
the fact tbat no fewer than six Cam
bridge colleges were founded by wom
en for men—Clare, by Elizabeth de
Bnrgh, Countess of Clare; Pembroke,
by Marie de St Paul, Countess of
Pembroke; Queeu's, by Queen Mar
garet of An-ou; Christ's and St.
John's, by Lady Margaret, Countess
of Richmond, who also founded a
divinity professorship, and Sidney
Sussex, by Lady Francis Sidney,
Countess of Sussex.
v Kelt Cla*p*.
The latest trick in the wardrobe of
the summer girl is a broad belt clasp
called a bodice, to hold the belt rib
bon ou flat. These clasps are de
signed to be worn at the back, al
though many girls will wear them in
place of the regulation belt buckle,and
will fasten the ribbon under them in
front* They come in steel and gold.
Another pretty fashion iu belts is a
girdle of homeric metal with a medal
lion clasp, on which some classic fig
ure in gold stands out in bas relief on
the darker background. Under the
belt, which is spiral, there is a colored
elastic, to give increased body. These
belts will be found becoming to slen
der girls.
A N»»\r House COWII from Paris.
"I wish yon could see my French
idea of a wrapper, so different from
some yon see her-," writes Edith
Lawrence in the Ladies' Home Jour
nal. "It is not a wrapper, but a love
ly tea gown, which I eau wear all day
long in the house if I choose and feel
that 1 am quite enough dressed to see
any one. It has the advantages of a
negligee with the appearance of a
house dress. Alice writes me that they
are the latest touch in Paris. Mine is
made of pongee silk and is relieved
with trimming of dark brown ribbon.
It is made all in one, with a broad
sailor collar, and a shaped flounce at
the bottom. There is a large brown
ribbon bow at the left side near the
collar, with a band which passes down
under the brown silk belt; just at the
hip line there is another bow and
band, and still another at the top of
tho flounce."
A I!rave French woman.
It was a brave answer Mine. Torni
elli made to the president of France
when he was attacked at the races re
cently. The president was sitting
right where the crowd could beat him
to death—nothing but a little balus
trade protected him. On one side of
him sot Mine. Loubet and Mme. Tor
nielli. When the first French loyal
ist struck him and the rabble of men
who called themselves the first gen
tlemen of France surged over the bal
ustrade, striking and crying, and the
great roar of anger went up from the
decent people, and it looked ns if
those three people, the president and
the two ladies, would lie crushed and
beaten to death, the two women sat
calm, interested.
When the guards drew the first men
off, President Loubet, tjiruing quick
ly to Mme. Tornielli, said, "Will you
leave?"
"Certainly not, Monsieur le Presi
dent," she said; "am I not in a place
of honor?"
Croquet Again In Favor.
With the growth of the Trelawney
fad, croquet has come into favor. At
the period when Trelawney fashions
were most popular croquet was at its
height, aud so in the natural course
of events the game has found renewed
tavor among the maidens who are
gowned in Trelawney costumes.
The present method of playing the
game is more complicated than the
old. More skill is called for, more
technique needed in the manipulation
of the many colored balls. Even the
wire hoops are set out by a different
rule. The heretofore straight lines of
the rings are doue away with,aud they
are crossed and angled until it re
quires long practice to guide the mul
let for tho different strokes'.
Lovely woman never looked lovelier
or more bewitching than when, gowned
in diaphanous muslin, with billows of
lace aud gay streamers of delicate
hued ribbons, she stoo.l, her dainty
shod foot poised ou a ball, mallet
raised, and with an earnest set ex
pression on her pretty face she con
sidered just how hard to • make the
stroke which would send her oppon
ent's ball flying over the field and far
away.—New York Herald.
WII.V to Wear Veils.
Fashion, who is always having a
quiet sort of a wrestling match with
her bold riva.l Comfort, has been vic
torious this season, aud now declares
boldly that in her train she will have
no more sunburnt, tanned or freckled
faces. She has endured them long
enough. Veils are undoubtedly a nui
sance when ou the golf field, wheeling
or yachting, whtve clear,unobstructed
vision is necessary. In fact, as long
as they interfered with the sight
they were impossible. This year,
however, there is a new way of wear
ing them that makes them a trifle
more bearable aud leaves the eyes un
covered.
The lower selvedge of tho veil is
first arranged loosely about the shoul
ders aud pinned securely at the back
of the neck. The veil is then taken
up over the face and the upper sel
vedge drawn tightly across the bridge
of the nose and under the eyes to the
back of the head. By this arrange
ment the forehead and eyes are all of
the face that is left exposed to the
gun; and the brim of the hat should
be such as to sufficiently protect them.
Brown tissue or chiffon veils appeal:
to be the ones most often chosen for
this purpose; the black ones are really
too grewsome end hideous. Some
tinie.H a white veil is used to cover the
'face aud a brown one is loosely dropped
ever the brim of the hat to do away
with the unpleasant glare of the sun's
rays upon the white veil. It is said
on good authority that the old-fash
ioned green veils will also be worn in
this way during the season.
One accustomed to seeing veils worn
in this new fashion is apt to be rather
astonished at first by the Egyptian
like, curious effect it gives to the
whole figure. The scheme for pro
tecting the face, howevei", is really a
good one. When the veil is not toe
thick, and especially when it is wo. n
by a woman with fine eyes, it is also
not without a subtle amount of at
traction. . -
Her Majesty's Tea IIo»\*e.
Close by the aviary aud the dairy
in the grounds of Frogmore is the
Queen's teahouse, a simple little bun
galow surrounded by a veranda and
surmounted by a red tiled roof. It ie
connected by an open passage with a
smaller building which contains the
kitchen. The furniture of the tea
house is all of plain oak,and the walls
are covered by an old-fashioned
Freuch chintz paper representing
flowers climbing on trellis work. In
fine weather the breakfast table is
set out beneath the great oak trees
which overshadow the tea house, aud
here her majesty takes her breakfast
attended by ludiau attendants and ac
companied by her grandchildren and
the three favorite dogs, who are, ac
cording to the kennel books, "in tho
house." During the meal music is
furnished by two pipers, who march
| to and fro beneath the trees.
The Queen's breakfast, in common
: with all her living, is of the very sim
plest. At her desire everything that
is good that is iu season is served at
her table, but for herself eggs, dry
I toast or faucy bread are all that she
ever takes.
; Notwithstanding the enormous
amount of business with which she
has to deal, the Queen is to a large
extent her own housekeeper. The first
thing every morning a pa'per of sug
gestions from the clerk of the kitchen
is placed before her, from which, in
her ewn hand, she orders the menus
of the day, both for herself aud such
of her grandchildren as may be with
her. These menus are at once sent
to the kitchens, gardens and other de
partments concerned, to obtain the
viands required, and their contents
duly entered, together with the quan
tities of material used, in the books
which are kept in the loyal kitchen.
In addition to the great kitchen at
i Windsor there are the green room for
vegetables, and the confectionery and
and pastry kitchen. This last is a
most important department,controlled
by a confectioner with six assistants
and fitted up in the most complete
manner. All her majesty's favorite
cakes, biscuits, pastry, etc., are made
here and sent by special messengers
several times a week to whichever of
her residences the court may be stay
ing at.—Pall Mall Magazine.
Gleaning* from the Shop*.
Entire costumes of automobile rert
with accompanying accessories iu tho
same shade.
Much bright green aud yellow neck
wear made of liberty and other light
weight silks.
Cut ostrich plumes and pompons
that are uot affected by the weather in
white, gray and black.
Taffeta and soft liberty silk fichus
in Oriental designs and colorings, to
be worn with white costumes.
White taffeta gowns trimmed with
many narrow ruchiugs of mousseliue
de soie iu some contrasting color.
Bevers, collars and band trimmings
of white silk or satin showing iu
numerable rows of black stitching.
Winged Carriers of Disease.
With regard to cholera, it was found
that when house flies were fed with
pure cultures of that disease the bacilli
were found iu their intestiues aud ex
creta up to four days later. Further,
if in addition to the pure cholera cul
ture a little sterilized broth were ad
ded, then immense quantities of ba
cilli were fouud, iiulicatihg that they
not only thrive but multiply in the
bodies of the flies. Thus may the
cholera l e insidiously deposited on
food or in milk to develop into the
full blown disease in the human bo<Ty.
These, then, are some of the primi
tive ways iu which disease may be
spread, for the germs not only live iu
the water and the soil, but in the air,
ready to fall on everything about us
within easy access to flies.
Iu addition to these direct ways of
transplanting the seeds of disease
there are othor aud more roundabout
methods known to science by which
certain flies, fitted by nature with a
complete inoculating apparatus, in
troduce into the humau blood the
germs of deadly diseases. These flies
are chiefly mosquitoes—uot all mos
quitoes, but certain species that no'
only have the power to elaborate the
germs of human diseases within the
area of their own bodies,but are gifted
with the power of extracting these
germs from the blood of man, and of
giviuar them back toman a/ain. —Lady
Prie tly iu The Nineteenth Century.
Lnbiter Kill* a Hat.
A hungry rat got into a Bath
kitchen the other day, and espying
some live lo\ sters seized one and
started for his hole. The next morn
ing the lobster was found on the
. kitchen floor and the rat was there
also, the lobster alive and the rat—
dead. There are dangers in the lob
sicr business for one who doesn't fully
understand what he is about.—Kenne
bec (Me. 1 Journal.
If Dot had played with common soap
What wreck there'd be to-morrow!
Her hands all chapped, her dress past hope,
Her toys a tale of sorrow.
But mother lets her play like this
And wash whate'er she chooses,
For not a thing will go amiss
When Ivory Soap she uses.
IVORY SOAP—99%> PER CENT. PURE.
COPYRIGHT I8«8 «Y THE PROCTER & GAMBLE CO. CINCINNATI
LOVE BRINGS CONSOLATION.
Time has healed the heart wound
of James Brown Potter. When the
beautiful and talented wife of the so-
JAMES BROWN POTTER,
clety man left her handsome
home and voluntarily renouncec'
forever her place in the social hurly-'
burly, preferring to make her living
as an actress rather than dawdlf.
through a monotonous exietenee as a
butterfly of fashion, many though'
that James Brown Potter would be in
consolable for the remainder of his
days. Now society hears, twelv»
years after Mrs. James Brown Pottei
made her debut as an actress, that the
distressed husband Is going to marrj
Miss May Handy of Richmond, Va.
one of the most beautiful girls In th<
south.
To Core Constipation - Forever*
Take Cascarets Candy Cathartic. 100 or Sso.
U C. C. C. (all to cure, druggists refund money.
There are 32,000 recently vncolnated arms
In Fall Kiter, Mass.
MANY a dutiful daughter pays in pain for her mother's
ignorance or perhaps neglect.
The mother suffered and she thinks her daughter
must suffer also. This is true only to a limited extent. No
excessive pain is healthy. Every mother should inform her
___________________ self for her own sake and especially
FGGFI MMM 0% MTMLMT or er daughter. Writo
KBVMJWL%XM!LF§ M to Mrs. Pinkham, at Lynn, Mass.,.
mjMf* fMjfICB O * or cr a^v ' ce about all matters.
Awvf nbliv concerning the ills of the feminine
organs.
Many a young girl's beauty is wasted by unnecessary pain at
time of menstruation, and many indulgent mothers with
mistaken kindness permit their daughters to grow carele3S
about physical health.
Miss CARRIE M. LAMB, Big Beaver, Mich., writes: "DEAR
MRS. PINKHAM—A year ago I suffered from profuse and
irregular menstruation f*'Lf — 1
and leucorrhcea. My V tBH
appetite was variable, V
stomach sour and bowels
were not regular, and
was subject to pains like
colicduringmenstruation. vfcll
I wrote you and began to M **
take Lydia E. Pinkham's HF ( wit
Vegetable Compound and MljSu | e\
used two packages of SragjJ A I
Sanative Wash. Youcan't
imagine my relief. My if""* i
courses are natural and|
Vegetable Compound has J J \
done my daughter. She \ \rTAy / '/I
suffered untold agony at irocL / fj/J 'A
time of menstruation be- J. / /
but the Compound has /
relieved the pain, given her a better color, and she feels
. stronger, and has improved every way. lam very grateful to
you for the benefit she has received. It is a great medicine
for young girls."
"Don't Put Off Till To-morrow the Du
ties of To-day." Buy a Cake of
SAPOLIO
W. L. DOUGLAS
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t Worth $4 to $6 compared witk
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Indented by over
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Take no substitute claimed
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Catalogue G Free.
W. L. DOUGLAS SHOE CO., Brockton, Man.
Dr. Bruce's Globules
Greatest medicine on earth for chill*, lever,
atf tie, and all forms of nmlttrlnl iioisouinx.
It room mended and prescribed by phy*!-
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N. 11. HItIUOS, PHARMACIST*
Clifton SpringN, N. V.
I CONTRACT 10 CUR E y iorm *t*
■ wUll I llnU I nerve tronbleor yii intA
Write for testimonials, form of contract mAUinlfl
kr., of Blood Food, Klieumntic Lightning.
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T rem g e r dylor ßt ». * JOHNSON'S
MALARIA, CHILLS&FEVEF
Grippe and Liver Diseases.
KNOWN AUL DBI CCIWTB. jQCI
[IENSION>?"hK"'"K'S
SKjfflSSM.lS^'ffiSSlSsa
3yrs iu ci\ il war, 15 udjudicatiugclaiiuM, utty .siuca
MTltf TTHAT PAPKU wukn kei'LV
IxLulN i-l-UIN ING T J> AUVTS. NYNU-34.
a Beat Cough Syrup. Tastes GoikL <;se 3