I NEW YORK FASHIONS.
jl Designs For Costumes That Have Be- I
H come Popular in the Metropolis. |
NEW YORK CITY (Special).
Checked tweed in brown and beige
made this stylish skirt, which may
form part of a cycling or golf suit, or
be used for general outing or rainy
day wear. The skirt comprises four
gores and displays the sheath effect
at the top with a pretty flare from the
knees to the lower edge.
The front gore is of narrow width
at the top and joins to wide circular
side gores shaped with underlaps,
over which the front gore closes with
double buttons and loops, as shown,
or with buttons and buttonholes, if so
FOUR GORED BICYCLE SKIRT.
preferred. The centre back gore is
gathered closely at the top, the ful
ness being invisible under the deeply
laid plaits that meet closely in back.
This arrangement gives necessary
saddle room when mounted and a be
coming flare when off the wheel.
A deep underfacing of the material
held in place with rows of stitching j
about an inoh apart finishes the lower i
edge of skirt. A smooth interlining of I
haircloth is recommended to insure j
both safety and style. I
To make this skirt will require j
three and one-fourth yards of material 1
forty-four inches wide or two and one
MISSES' WAIST.
half yards of fifty-four-inch material
for short length, and two aad three
fourth yards of forty-four or two and
one-eighth yards of fifty-four-inch
material for full length.
A CharinluK Waist.
Mauve drap d'ete, velvet of a darker
shade, 'white corded tnfftta and irregu
lar insertion are stylishly united in
the charming waist illustrated in the
large engraving. The pretty bodice
decoration of velvet is finished separ
ately and applied over the completed
waist. It may be used as an acces
sory, for other waists may be worn
with low pompadour neck and short
sleeves for evening dress. The full
fronts are supported by fitted liniugs
that close in center back, the square
yoke of corded or tucked taffeta being
applied over the lining. The collar is
of taffeta to match the yoke facing.
The two-seamed sleeves have becom
ing fulness at the top and are ar
ranged over fitted linings, the wrists
being decorated with bands of velvet
and insertion to match the bretelles.
The mode presents opportunity for the
introduction of three contrasting ma
terials, which is ofttimes desirable
when remodeling misses' waists. The
bretelles may be of some material dec
orated with braid, ribbon or passemen
terie, the yoke and collar facing being
all-over lace underlaid with satin in
white or some becoming oolor.
To make this waist for a miss four
teen years of age will require one and
one-half yards of material forty-four
inches wide.
Tlie Correct Tlilne to "Wear.
Shepherds' plaid woolen materials
in black and white, petunia and white
and gendarme blue and white are the
very height of fashion just now for
making up into skirts, and the correct
thing is to wear a short jacket or eoat
made of satin-face amazone cloth to
matob the color of the check material
of whieh the skirt is made. The fancy
shape revers and collar are faced with
the shepherds' plaid. White crystal
buttons are used to decorate double-
breasted and open-fronted coats, and
certainly look more stylish than or
dinary bone buttons.
Llßle Thread Glove*.
Thread gloves, having for years
been the joy of the simple and sen-
Bible, have recently been taken up
with a rush by the fashionable and
rather freakish element. This is
chiefly because with their capital
suede lisle gloves the manufacturers
have achieved a cotton hand covering
that fits exactly and smartly. Thread
gloves in a variety of soft tones are
very preferable to silk, and women
with pretty, plump hands and arms
wear elbow sleeved muslins in the
afternoon with flesh, pink or lilac
suede lisle gloves reaching to the
crook of the arm and end of the
sleeve. One potent argument in
favor of these hand covering is that
net only are they cool, perfect protec
tors against sunburn, but they wash
just like lisle thread stockings.
Foulard as Popular as Ever.
The craze for foulards has by no
means abated. In fact, as the season
advances so are more patterns sprung
upon the market. They are all of the
very softest, satiny order, very differ
ent from the hard combination of Bilk
and surah of yore. The most popular
colors are a mixture of blues and
white, but pink and black, and even
mauves, have been in great demand.
A Rnfw in Jewelry.
The butterfly is becoming the rage
for everything, just as the bowknot
was a while ago. When enamelled in
natural colors it makes a pretty pin
for stocks and the hair. As brooches
set with precious genm they are be
wilderingiy lovely, and add to the
fineness and daintiness of lace.
A Novelty in Coinbt.
Pompadour combs, in real or even
imitation shell, aro considered the
best taste by many. If set with semi
precious stones or genuine jewels they
are prettier in dark hair than the plain
shell.
Sanlte* ot Chiflon and Silk.
Wide sashes of crepe de Chine,
chiffon, hemstitched taffeta and soft
Liberty silks iu evening shades or in
bright Roman stripes are telling items,
of dress. They fasten with a rosette
and a second rosette catches the ends
together a few inches below the waist.
On the Wearing of V«ili.
White veils are becoming only to
brunettes, to women with very large
eyes or a brilliant complexion. Black
veils with big dots should be worn by
women with large features. A plain
mesh is the most genteel in appear
ance.
Chilli'# Frock.
White dimity is here daintily as
sociated with fine tucking and lace in
sertion which is sold all ready for yok
ing. The fashionable square yoke
forms the upper portion from which
depends the full front and back, that
hangs in graceful folds from gathers
at the top. A deep frill of valenciennes
lace edging outlines the yoke, stand*
ing out stylishly at the shoulders
over the moderately full sleeves. Tha
JHIIiO's FBOCK.
sleeves are gathered on the upper and
lower edge 3 and completed at thi
wrists with bands of insertion and
frills of narrow lace edging. A nar
row frill to match finishes the neok.
It is a verv popular style.
P 1 "
« \ FOR WOMAN'S BENEFIT.
ft Ml
Hut Pins to Match.
It ia now the fashion to wear one's
bonnet pins and hat pins strictly in
pairs instead of using at random. Tho
day of individual hat pins is on the
wane. Henceforth these articles will
be either matched or bought or pre
sented in pairs. The flower-head pins
ire always pretty, especially the amar
anth or periwinkle pattern, or the
small white camellia pins.
Haud-Embroldered Stocking*.
Ganze thread hose and hand-em
broidered stockings are the choice for
wear with slippers in place of the
luxurious spun silk, and, though of
linen woven, they are no less costly
than the best silken web. Some of
the hand embroidered hose have tiny
green leaves and scarlet berries strewn
on blaclk ground, or minute butterflies
and dragon flies are pricked out on the
gauzy film of linen. All these fragile
splendors are set off with low-heeled,
perfectly plain black Fatin slippers,
shaped with wedge toe.sand cut as
low as possible about the foot.
The Latont Fad.
The latest fad with the ultra-fasli
ionable is the absence of the envel
ope. We have gone back to the days
of the olden tiiuts when the red wafers
aud the sealing wax and the folded
paper were all that custom demanded
or knew. The modern or recalled
fashion has substituted the daintiest
tinted wafers to match the paper, helio
trope, robin's egg blue, cerulean, lilac,
fawn or cream, for the niucilaged flap
of the envelope. One must write on
i big sheet if it is a letter; on the
smaller size for notes, invitations,
etc.; fold and seal, and then a wafer
may be udded for extra strength, or
the seal alone will answer, if desired.
She Shop* for a Railroad.
It is well known that many city
women earn comfortable incomes as
shoppers for women who live in local
ities where the shopping facilities are
meagre, but the shopping of no other
"purchasing agent" covers as wide a
range as that of Mrs. M. T. Reed of
Chicago. Mrs. Reed buys everything,
from gingham aprons to locomo
tives. In fact, the latter and all other
railroad equipments have now be
come her specialty. She ha< re
cently been appointed purchasing
agent of the new Pacific and Northern
Idaho railroad, and has already pur
chased many tons of railway machin
ery, steel rails and other railroad ap
purtenances. She has not yet relin
quislijd her regular shopping busi
ness, but says it is easier to buy a lo
comotive than a new spring bonnet.
She is the only woman on record who
goes "shopping" in steel works aud
machine shops, but is very fond of
the work and has proved that it can
be done with emiueut success by a
woman. Mri<. Reed Inn been a busi
ness woman just one year.—Leslie's
Weekly.
On the Fitneftft of Tiling#.
An idea of the fitness of things cau
be very successfully applied to the
purchase of stocks aud collars, which,
after all, are the important feature of
the shirt waist. The chic of this kind
of dress depends so much on the right
collar and tie that it is well t > aim for
the correct thing, since what is suited
to one kind of shirt is out of place
with auother. The broad Ascot tie,
which so many young women seem to
regard with favor, should never be worn
except with a coat or vest, which con
ce ils the ends. The bow ties of silk
with long ends are very pretty, and
feiniuine, too, but here care must be
token not to have the ends too long or
the good effect is lost. The thiu,
dressy white shirt waists require a
fine linen stock with embroidered
turn-over edges and a bow and ends
of taffeta or batiste, which, of
course, extends arouud tho neck in
a narrow band. A plain standing
linen collar, with a ribbon carried
twice around the neck, forming a
stock, aud tied in a bow iu front, is a
favorite way of dressing the neck; aud
tucked stocks of silk, with a little but
terfly bow iu front and narrow turn
over collars of embroidered or hem
stitched linen lawn, aro very dainty
and generally becoming. Narrow
Brussels laco ncarfs tied around the
silk stocks are also very pretty. In
liuen collars there are the high, turn
over variety, with round ends, worn
with a simple narrow tie, and the
high band turned over fully an inch
around tho top.—New York Sun.
Women In India.
Many natives of India are now join
ing with Europeans in attacking the
system of child marriage, and a social
reformer has come forward with a
carefully prepared set of rules for the
education of girls, which, it is said,
"if duly observed, will be found to ba
of great advantage." For it is thought
that by education reform will come,
aud the seven million married girls
not j'et in their teens have plenty of
time, even in the midst of their dom
estic duties, to devote to their les
sons. Tho social reformer advises
their instructors to proceed on these
lines: Don't teach the girl any lan
guages useless to her life. Don't
teach her work which she will have no
occasion to do. Don't waste her
precious time in imparting knowledge
which she will have no occasion what
ever to use. Don't try to teach her at
school what she cau better or more
naturally learn at home. These aud
some others of an equally homely
kind are the rules which the Indian
social reformer lays down for the
amelioration of the uative girl. But
it is open to doubt whether education,
even on sensible lines, is sufficiently
powerful to break down caste Dreiu-
dices, which are, of course, the teal
reason of the native woman's unde
veloped state. The only European
invention which has done anything so
far to destroy these prejudices is the
railway, and it is unlikely that educa
tion can be really usefully employed
until the railway has made a much
further advance in its pioneer work.
Certaiuly the government can nevei
take any steps to interfere in the
thorny question of caste.—London
Globe.
The Style In Piimeg.
Purses carried by women nowadays
are in fancy grains and fancy colors,
the grain of the leather giving an ap
pearance of shading, while the edge:
are bound in a plain shade of the
same color or in a contrasting color.
These pnrses are all made in the com
mon patterns, with change ami bill
compartments.
There is a revival of an old German
purse, which is a big flat pouch when
opeued and has a flat top frame in
four pioces. The sides of the purse
are flat and bound with straight
pieces of steel, while the leather forme
I a bag hanging from these side steels.
! The end steels are half as wide and
; are hinged to the side pieces, folding
! across the top and meeting in the
' middle with a clasp like a change
| purse.
j When opened wide the whole purre
| is spread out about eight inches long,
i There is a place for everything and
j everything iu itß place in one big bag.
Its bulk, when filled with the usual
| array of memoranda and samples,musl
!.be detrimental to its popularity, as it
must be held clasped in the hand, aud
it makes a pretty good handful.
The popular purse, however, is ol
plainest and homeliest type. It is
the "finger purse," named from the
women's habit of carrying it with the
fingers thrust through the big retain
i ing strap across the front. This purse
! is mad • of three plain strips of rough
ly finished pig t-kiu, making two com
j pertinents in the simplest form. One
is gusseted for change and the other
iis a flat pocket for bills. The flap ol
both comj a tinents slips through o
strap across the front pie.e. The
whole is sewed around the edges with
harness stitching, with no attempt at
ornamentation.
To individualize this purse there
are big brass initials, the same as are
used in ornamenting brass-trimmed
sets of harness. These are furnished
with retaining pins on the > ack, which
are easily thrust through the leathei
aud pressed down flat.
There is something rich about the
appearance of these simple purses,
and their o ldity has made them most
popular among the young folk.—New
York Herald.
Fashion Note*.
The rage for white gowns for morn
ing, afternoon and evening use is very
marked this season.
I Piques are more used than ever this
year. Those with alternating stripes
of openwork aro an innovation.
Colored baby ribbon is proper as
drawing strings in underwear. The
more ribbon the fussier aud prettier.
Chemisettes for tailor-made suits
are losing that stiff, ungainly effect
by the introduction of lace, insertion
and flue tucks.
Very smart and handsome are the
all-linen costumes made up iu skirt
and jacket style,like the plain or faucy
piques, in simple tailor fashion.
The most economical hat a woman
with limited spending money can have
is an all-black hat, aud next to this i?
one of black and white combined. *
| Skirts of many of the thin gowns
are tucked down several inches at the
back, thereby giving the desired flat
effect and some fulness at the same
time.
Very dainty and refined looking are
the gowns of gray aud white foulard
' silk,with trimmings of black chantillv
i lace, a vest of black chautilly net laid
over rose pink, with a number of
black velvet bows set here and there
on the bodice.
Petticoats, whether of silk or lawn,
have to be very carefully fitted tc
wear with tho close-fitting skirts. The
i prettiest to wear with thiu gowns is
, made of white taffeta, silk-trimmed,
I with detachable lace-trimmed ruffles
of lawn, which can be easily laund
ered, or with India silk, trimmed with
lace that will wash.
Wlial Saved Him.
A young artist had presumed to fall
in love with the daughter of a wealthj
■ ship owner. It was long before
: the dawn of (esthetic .taste. The pro
! fession of artist was looked upon as
I merely an excuse for idleness.
When it became known that the rich
' ship owner's daughter had encouraged
| the suit of n painter society was
i shocked. The young man had talents,
no doubt, but they were talents of o
; sort that did not count in those days.
One day ft friend entered the ship
owner's house, and the women of the
family—the vor.ng lady's mother and
sisters—begged him to remonstrate
with the obstinate Emily and save the
family honor.
"The family honor !"said lie. "What
has Emily been doing now?"
"Doing!"answered the full feminine
chorus. "She's going to disgrace us
all by marrying the artist."
"pooh! Pooh!" was the quiet reply.
"The fellow isn't enough of an artist
to make it anything of a disgrace."
The women were indignant, wo are
1 told, but it is pleasant to know that
when the wealthy ship owner heard
the story he was »-o amused that he
withdrew all opposition to the mar
riage. Pearson's Weekly.
j The Spanish are among the most
I charitable people on earth. Without
a poor-tax, Spanish communities of
j 50,000 self-supporters feed a paupei
population of 6000 or more.
i
A tasteful appearance in dress often comes as
much from good laundering as from the quality of
the clothing. Good laundering requires good soap
and Ivory Soap is the best.
The fading of delicate shades is frequently the ruinat'.on of an expensive
garment. Any color that will stand the free application of water can be washed
with Ivory Soap.
J r COPVMGHT 1890 BY TMI PROCTCR ft GAMBLE CO. OINCINNATI
DUln't Mlu Mnch.
On one of the trolley lines leading
to a well-known amusement park they
have a system whereby the cars are
stopped at certain points to allow
uniformed inspectors to count the
passengers, presumably as a check on
the conductors. Among the passen
gers on the car on which the Saun
terer happened tote riding was a
well dressed young fellow with a
penchant for cracking jokes at other
people's expense. When the car
stopped for the count-up he had a lot
of fun thrusting gibes in the inspector,
the conductor and tke trolley com
pany people in general. Finally, just
as the car was about to resume its
journey, he called out:
"Say, Mister Inspector, you missed
me."
The inspector turned and looked
the voung fellow over very carefully.
"Humph!" he retorted, "I guess
the company can stand it. I didn't
miss much."
Theu everybody laughed, the young
fellow got red in the face, the motor
man turned on the current and the
car sped onward.—Pniladelphia In
quirer.
Death For Corn Microbes.
That little bit of rough skin on the
business side of the little toe, that un
failing barometer and inducer of pedal
agony, the corn, is not simply the re
sult of wearing boots too tight or too
loose, as we liave been taught to be
lieve. It has a far more important
pedigree than than, and actually
boasts a bacillus—the corn bacillus.
His identity has long been hidden,but
a Trappist monk discovered the ras
cal and his complete destruction may
be looked for in the near future.
The pesky organism has been dig
nified with a name, Bacillus Diaboli
cus, it is called. Physicians will ab
breviate that to Di. The monk of La
Trappe who found him out gives de
tailed instructions for the capture and
punishment of the vicious mite for the
benefit of suffering humanity. The
prescription is composed of thirty
grains of perchloride of mercury in
solution and thirty drops laudanum de
Sydenham. Place this on the affected
spot and the career of the bacillus di
abolicus comes to an ignoble end.—
New York Press.
Emperor William's Tenants.
The German Emperor, as ia well
known, has since his accession done
all in his power to improve the con
dition of the working classes, with the
happiest results. During his recent
visit to his new estate at Cadinen,
which is in every recpoct considered a
model for the rest of east Prussia, the
Kaiser was greatly shocked at the ap
pearance of the workmen's houses on
the estate, and remarked thathis cow
houses aud pigsties were palaces com
pared with these hovels. He further
gave orders that the dwellings for his
work-people should be improved be
fore his next visit, and said he hoped
that his example would be followed by
other land owners. In east Prussia |
there is great necessity for improve
ment, and it is to be hoped that the
fact that the Emperor has now an es
tate there will have a very good effect.
-St. Louis Globe-Democrat.
What May Happen.
It probably is merely a matter of
evolution, observed Cumso, before
they hold sailing races in automobile
jrachts.—New York Commercial Ad
vertiser.
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