Republican news item. (Laport, Pa.) 1896-19??, January 05, 1899, Image 7

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    H FOR WOMAN'S BENEFIT.;:
A New Safety Pocket.
Apropos of jewel cases, new safety
pockets for jewels and valuables are
sold for the woman who has no faith
in safe deposit vaults. The pocket is
made of suede, is five inches broad
and ton inches long, and has a strong
band at the top by which it is fastened
to the waist. It is so ingeniously con
structed that only a very bulky object
could cause it to bulge out beneath
the gown, audit closes with a metal
lock, like a reticule.
Season's Dress Goods in Black.
Black dress goods suitable for any
and all occasions are whipcord, serge,
Eudora, or a grauite-like weave; none
of these are recommended for cool
ness, as the coolest black gown for
best wear, outside of semi-transparent
goods, is foulard. Where oue dress
has to answer for mauv occasions,
black is the best choice, and a silk
warp fabric will present the more
dressy appearance if made with a white
yoke covered with cream colored gui
pure.—-Ladies' Home Journal.
Mannerisms of Fashion.
I wonder if you've ever noticed how
every passing fashion brings with it
its own set of mannerisms. Of course
you can't remember when hoops were
in vogue aud you never saw a woman
in crinoline gather her voluminous
draperies about her in order to seat
herself without tilting her petticoat
hem skyward. But you remember, 10
years or so back, when reeds aud wires
and other devices made skirts more
than bouffant in the back. Women
then had a way of settling their skirts
that would be strange to us today.
Four years ago or thereabouts Mile.
Up-to-Date gave her huge sleeves a
fluff now and then. Last summer she
held her head haughtily back, because
her hat was tilted over her eyes. This
fall she droops hor head meekly for
ward, to balance the toque on the back
of her head, and the mannerism the
fashions has given her is an odd little
way of pulling the front of her bodice
out now and theu, so that it may de
scribe as ample a curve from collar to
belt as possible. Next year she may
smooth down her skirt or rumple hor
sleeves, but just now the front of her
corsage engages her bauds and her
attention.—Washington Post.
Inklings of London Faftliion.
In London, everywhere aud on all
•sides, there is a great deal to delight
and please both sight and fancy. There
are notable changes in skirts. Tney
aro prepared under various guises at
the shops, almost ready to put on,
with but very little intervention on
the part of the dressmaker. Braided
and trimmed skirts, sold with mate
rials for bodices,in boxes, are at hand
for those who need them, whether
made iu cloth, rep or some thinner
fabrics. Singularly pretty are gauze
skirts, needing only onejoiu and ready
shaped as they issue from the manu
facturer. They are shimmering fab
rics which seem to have imprisoned
rays of sunlight, with here and there
at regular intervals medallions of lace
inserted, these united by light sprays
of embroidery.
Russian uet in white and black has
been utilized, too, made up with one
or two rather full flonucings and satin
ribbons of the half inch width black
on bliick and whito on white run oil.
A. girl with a small allowance may
reckon herself fortunate possessed of
such a dress, and it is to bo strongly
recommended to the notice of the
many who have by them a half worn
out black silk or satin skirt, well cut,
"bien entendu." Whito mousseline
<le soie lias been mounted also in the
prevailing fashion, namely, skin tight
about the hips, the problem of the
moment being whether now and then
these thinner fabrics will not yield to
the undue strain upon tlieni, and the
added flounces below cut on the
round but not gathered, though the
method of cutting renders it very full.
The junction is hidden by trimmings,
which take the form of light embroid
ery intermixed with a renaissance lace
composed of braid and a variety of
etitches. The Queen.
A Jacket for tlie Yonnij fJirl.
Jackets for young school girls this
winter are most of them built on the
lines of a box coat, with a few modifi
cations. They are a trifle longer than
last year's jackets. One that was
very jaunty was made of dark red
cloth. It had a straight front and a
plain back, with the under arm seams
curved a trifle. The front fastened
to the left side in double breasted
fashion and was ornamented with two
large crystal buttous. Dark blue moire
faced the roundiug lapels and collar.
The sleeves wore close fitting and
loug, with a spring at the hand that
showed the moire facing. The edges
of the jackot were finished with a
double row of dark blue stitching.
A pretty little model for a slender
girl was made with short rouud
basques, that relieve very much the
"straight up and down" look of a
400 slender figure. Olive green cam
el's hair was the material chosen. The
skirt was quite full around the bottom
aud was trimmed with three rows of
narrow dark green soutache, caught
up into rounded scallops and attached
with olive buttons. The corsage wns
a blouso opening overa narrow dark
fjreen velvet vest that wns gathered.
It had short round basques, cut away
•t the front and trimmed at the top
with three rows of the soutache. Six
rows of the braid, laid in bunches of
tkree, began at the under E'm seams
and slanted up to the edges of tho
vest, where they were held with the
vlive buttons. Three rows of the
braid trimmed a pointed strap of tL«
cloth that hooked across the lowec
edge ol the vest. The sleeves were
close fitting and were mounted by
square epaulets of cloth trimmed
with the soutache. The high,straight,
collar was of green velvet.—Philadel
phia Times.
A Device for the Handkerchief.
It has long been a question with
women and a matter of anxiety, just
what to do with their pocket handker
chiefs nowadays. Even the new wom
an must have a handkerchief, but a
new woman's gown is fashioned with
but little regard for the safe keeping
of this very necessary article of ap
parel.
The tight fitting skirt permits of no
old time bulging and handy pockets.
Such an introduction into the sheath
like fit of tho fashionable skirt would
be something entirely unheard of and
unallowable, and yet so far no one
seams to have contrived a substitute
for the necessary square of linen
which must be carried by rich and
poor alike.
Some maidens contracted tho habit
of tucking the dainty, flimsy, lnce
trifle up the sleeve. Then it became
the fad to tuck it into tlie purse, but
this, too, was soon abandoned, as it
proved ruinous to any handsome pock
etbook.
There is never a want but there is
found a supply for it, and so in
the case of the handkerchief holder.
The di9iculty has been met and con
quered, apparently, and tho new belt
comes forth with a new clasp attach
ment. It is made of oxidized or fili
gree silver, and is worn on tho right
side, directly under the arm.
The favorite handkerchief is made
of the thinnest, sheerest material pos
sible, and is finished with a narrow
hem. One corner is embroidered with
a large and heavy monogram, the
larger the better. It is to be woru
fastened directly in the centre of the
the belt clasp and tucked iu so that
the corner containing the monogram
shows plainly. For the patriotic girl
there are handkerchiefs embroidered
with a regimental decoration or the
stars and stripes, while for the girls
with beaux to their strings private
signals of yachts or olubs are in evi
dence. —New York Herald.
ISermucla's Only Woman's Club.
One of the most interesting and dis
tinctive of clubs is the Nineteenth
Century club of Bermuda. The club
is distinctive because it is the only
woman's club on that inland, and is
specially interesting as an evidence
of the conquering spirit of club life
iu a most conservative community. It
was the outgrowth of a bit of club
leaven spread duriug a visit to Ber
muda, made two 01 three years ago, by
Miss Julia A. Kempshall of Brook
lyn. Miss Kempshall is a well-known
club woman, with a genius for found
ing clubs that is as marked as it is in
voluntary on her part. She was the
chief inspiration and first president of
the flourishing Cambridge club of
Brooklyn, and is repeating that ex
perience in the Prospect club of the
the same city. Her natural reference
to club life in America while at Ber
muda aroused the interest of the
ladies the e.
From a little inform al talk, intend
ed more to describe the club life of
America than to make it an inspira
tion to do likewise in Bermuda, the
Nineteenth Century club came into
existence. Its constitution and gen
eral scheme aie modele 1 after the
Cambridge club of Brooklyn. Mrs.
Ingham, its first president, is an
American by birth and education,
whose long residence in Bermuda,
however, gives hor a peculiar fitness
for her office. Imbued with the spirit
of progress, as we translate it here in
America, Mrs. Ingham yet understands
the conservatism of English women,
which likes to make haste slowly. The
club, entering now upon its third
year, may be said to be firmly estab
lished. It has proved its desirability
and its members would give it up with
reluctance. Its membership consists
of 29.—Harper's Bazar.
F» ft hi on'• Fancy.
taffeta gowns trimmed with
bottle green velvet are new this sea
son.
One rich variety of velvet is seeded
with small, heavy satin dots, set
mount 1 little blossoms of heavy satin.
The lac* called applique de Brabant
is intended to be use.l for flowers in
stead of the real lace, of which it is
the closest imitation.
Black aud white satin stocks are
made up with short, narrow ends
crossed in front like a striug tie minus
the tie and fastened with a tiny scarf
pin.
Parisians like the use of fancy wool
fabrics in combination with plain silk
goods. This is a style which gives an
excellent opportunity for remodelling
old dresses.
Tailor costumes are growing se
veiely plain,[which is a comfort to tha
large contingent of women who hav«i
never been able to reconcile them
selves to fussiness iu cloth costumes.
A new material for fancy braid is a
wood fibre ribbon, intertwined with
chenille cord. Theribbou is crimped,
which furnishes a lustrous effect and
gives the name of "satin straw"to the
material.
A pretty hat with a stiff round
crown, covered smoothly with a plain
fawu colored velvet, showing a group
of tucks, is trimmed with charming
effect with red and purple asters iu
crowded clusters.
The use of velvet for wraps and
dresses will be unprecedented. The
new qualities are thick, durable, soft
and pliable without the weight whick
has heretofore been objectionable.
Costumers pronounce the new volvets
perfect oostume fabrics.
| HEW YORK FASHIONS. 1
|1 Late T'nts For the Wardrobes of Those Who l|
||| Like to Be Correctly Gowned. fl;
NEW YORK CITY (Special).—The
cloth gowns show every week some
new feature, so that it seems to be
necessary to have three or four in one
LAriES 1 CUTAWAY COAT.
wardrobe in order to be correctly
gowned, states Harper's Bazar. The
Rkirts of all the gowns are made long,
and as close-fitting as possible over the
hips, and many of them have jackets
or long cutaway coats. There is no
doubt that the long coats and cloaks
are much the fashion this year, and are
SKIRT AND WAIST FOR A YOUNG LADY.
being imported all the lime. A smart
walking gown is made with a velvet
Bkirt, and over this is worn a long
redingote of beige cloth that entirely
covers the skirt. In front there is a
flounce, of the same material as the
redingote, that starts at the waist in a
narrow width, and it gradually broad
ens out until it reaches part way up
the coat. The upper part of the coat
is finished with a deep collar that
forms a wavy cape, and there is a high
stock-collar and vest of velvet, and in
side the stock-collar is a high flaring
collar also of the velvet. On the front
of this coat are large fancy buttons.
The sleeves are small, but have a little
fulness at the top. They are very
long, and are finished arouud the
wrist with a ruffled oiff. To wear
with this coat is a hat of felt, some
thing in a sailor shape, trimmed with
rosettes of velvet and stiff wings.
The same gown in two shades of
green is effective also.
A Popular Modo,
The model shown in the large en
graving is desirable for either silk or
woolen fabrics, charming combinations
being effected by making flounce and
broad collar of contrasting material.
This is also a good design for remod
elling, as the waist can be lengthened
over a new lining, the collar of new
material giving a stylish finish. A
flounce to match collar will five added
length as well as style to the skirt,
and the decoration may be as simple
or as elaborate as desired.
To make this waist for a miss of
fourteen years will require two yards
of material forty-four ifiches wide.
To make the skirt will require three
and one-half yards of material forty
four inches wide.
Muff* to Match the Hat.
Fancy muffs of velvet to match the
hat are displayed very temptingly
among the extravagant novelties. They
are flat in effect and made with a
double ruffle at each end, but large in
size. A stylish sable muff in a simi
lar style has a wide circular frill at
each end, is lined with white satin,
and is finished on the edges with tiny
short tails set on two or three inches
apart all around.
The ltoy'g Snlt.
The small hoy of fashion is arrayed
| in blouse and knickerbockers for or
, dinary wear. The trousers are slight
j ly full and loose, depending a little
! from the band which is worn above
I the knee. Boys like this style much
i better than the fitted knee breeches
i heretofore worn.
I Worn on tlie Hat*.
1 novel and beautiful fibre which
< _ led extensively on hats shows a
e, lace-like mesh of heavy silk
. id, woven with chenille cord. A
ition of this is of coarse-meshed
, interwoven with double zephyr
.JP"
Ribbon Frills For the Gown.
The liking for narrow ribbon frills
and ruches increases—if that is pos
sible. Three, four and even five rib
bons of assorted colors are lrequently
combined to complete thetiimming of
a gown.
The Faaliionable Jewelry.
Neck chains, lockets and crosses are
fashionable. The slender gold chains
strung with jeweis are of course pre
ferred. The most ultra chain ties
about the throat and pear shape pearls
finish the ends.
Out-of-l>oor Toilet For a Tot.
A stylish out-of-door toilet for a
tiny miss is here represented in rich
red serge coating, trimmed with Per-
sian lamb fur and tiny frills of black
satin ribbou. Flare bonnet of red
velvet, with red taffeta bows and tie
strings, black soft quills and border
of Persian lamb. The Empire style
needs no introduction. It is graceful
and becoming to little folks, the cape
collar with its circular ripple ruffle
being also a revival of a former style
and at this time a very popular fea
ture.
The deep box-pleated skirt portions
of the coat are joined at the top to
front aud back short body portions,
CHILD'S COAT.
which meet in shoulder and under
arm seams. The cape collar is included
in the sekm with the turn-over collar.
The Cold-Weatlier Cape.
Capes for cold-weather wear ar.
either in shawlpoint or seamless cir
cular shape, aud nearly every model
is of three-quarter length.
|FOR FARM AND GARDEN).
Keeping Onion, in tlie Winter.
My plan of keeping onions through
the winter ia this: Be sure that they
are perfectly dry when cribbing them,
as that is one of the main points to be
considered. If they are to be disposed
of before cold weather comes they can
be kept in any dry place where they
have plenty of air, the best place being
» crib built in the same way as a corn
;jrib, so the air can circulate freely
through them. Onions to be preserved
thtough the winter should be kept at
a low temperature, say about thirty
two degrees. There is no danger of
the temperature being too low; just so
they are kept from freezing and are
kept dry. I keep mine in a cold stor
age built especially for onions on the
shelf plan, each shelf or bin holding
about fifty bushels. The shelves are
built with slats so the air can circulate
freely among the onions. I have kept
them when the temperature was below
zero without their being frozen. Should
they become frozen by chance they
should not be handled, but kept in
the dark. It is not the frost that does
the harm, but moving them when
frozen. Above all things moisture
and heating in bulk should be guarded
against for winter storing. They
should not be over two feet deep; bet
ter less, if too warm they grow and
rot.—lra Graber in Agricultural Epit
omist.
nirtlni; for IIo(f Cholera.
The prevalence of cholera during
the past few years has brought forth
innumerable remedies, most of them
found wanting when tried. So des
perate have breeders become that they
are now working ou the plan of pre
venting the disease by a scientific
system of care and feeding. It is
gratifyiug to know that the hog rais
ers have at last come to understand
that swine are not naturally filth lov
ing animals, nor are they ready and
willing to to eat anything and every
thing offered them. The only sur
prising thiug about the matter is that
it has taken so long for breeders to
realize this fai>t. It cannot be denied
that a mixed ration for swine will do
much toward keepiug them in proper
condition, nor can it be disputed that
the incessant ration of corn weakens
the digestive organs and leaves the
animal open to attacks of disease.
Grass anil grain with roots of some
kind are the ideal food. Itoots are
the natural food for hogs and the tame
artichoke seems to be nearer what the
the animal wants in this line than
anything else. Due attention to the
condition of the quarters in which
swine are kept, with a careful regula
tion of food, will not only reduce the
danger from cholera to a minimum,
but greatly add to the value of the
carcass both in weight and quality. —•
Atlanta Journal.
Narrow Crib* for Corn.
All the rules for economizing space
have to be broken in cribbing damp
corn. We can get more room in a
square or octagon building with the
same area outside than in a long, nar
row one. But for drying out corn we
c junt tho space next the outside most
valuable. The crib must be wider at
the top than it is at the bottom, and,
besides, its roof onght to project as
much as is safe,and have eave troughs
conducting all the water that falis on
the roof to the side, where it will
most likely bo bloXvn awav from the
building instead towards it. Of
course a corn crib thus put up is ex
tremely liable to be blown over unless
it is propped well on each side. Where
an expensive corn liouso can fce af
forded, it is well to make m wide
enough so that it will hold t rows
of cribs with the sides vertical on the
outside, but shelviug wider at the top
towards the centre ou each side. We
kuow such a cam crib built near 40
years ago, which, except that it has
had to be new roofed once or twice, is
still in good condition. It was set on
posts in the ground, each capped with
a projection so as to keep out rats and
mice. This part of the scheme proved
a failure. Bats or mice bed in this
corn crib just as they would if it set
on a wall. It would have been better
if a wall had been put under it with a
five or six-feet deep cellar that could
have been used as a pigpen. Probably
when the oak posts rot out the corn
crib will be raised and such a cellar
put under it.—American Cultivator.
A CJood Way to Store Celery,
Small quantities can best lie taken
eare of in a cool cellar with an earthen
floor. A couple of feet from the wall
place a board and with stakes fix it in
ru upright position. Lift the buuehes
and leave a little earth on the roots.
Place a row against the board and
draw some moist soil part of the way
up. Set in another row of bunches
and treat in like manner. When the
bed is three or four feet wide, putin
another board, A foot from this last
board start another bed, and continue
until the entire crop is stored. An
important poiut is to keep the roots
moist, but the stems aud leaves must
be dry. If the soil is dampened when
the celery is being putin, no more
moisture will probably be nee.?«d, but
If rapid drying oat should occur pour
in water ut intervals, taking care to
keep it from the leaves. Keep tho
oellar as cool as possible aud be par
ticularly careful about ventilation, j
Keep the windows open as late as j
possible and bank them up only when ■
there is danger of freezing.
Celery can be stored out of doors in |
about tlie same maune". Hava the \
boards along tho sidts of the beds
several inches higher than the tops of
the plants, so that sticks cau be laid
across to support covering. During
tho fall aud early winter a covering of
•traw wall weighted down will be suf
.icienX Later soil will have to ba
; added. Or covering can be made of
cold frame sash. During the day
these can remain open aud at uiglit be
covered with mats. Here, as in the
cellar, especial care must be taken to
give good ventilation. Also the cov
ering must be removed after a rain so
that the tops may dry off if the ma
terial does not turn water. Of course
when very cold weather arrives,celery
doos not keep as well out of doors as
in the cellar, but that to be used iu
the fall and early winter is better
stored outside.—New England Home*
stead.
Keaftontt for Huilriing a Granary.
I had been using an old-fashioned
crib, such as used to be seen on al
most every farm. It.was 011 my place
when I bought the farm, and I did
not at first realize how much it would
cost me to keep it there; but a few
years' experience taught me that it
was the most expensive way that could
possibly be advised for storing corn,
although upon posts, I never could
keep rats, mice and squirrels out. I
lined it with wire cloth, at consider
able cost of time and money, and that
did not avail anything. Every year
bushels upon bushels of grain were
destroyed. I have 110 doubt whatever
that far more corn was wasted by ver
min than it would have cost me to put
up a good granary.
Finally L awoke to the sense of tlia
luxury I was supporting in order to
fatten a lot of rats and mice, and one
day I laid siege to that corn crib and
demolished it utterly. Then I got
out timbers Bxß for a good granary.
The posts rest ou stones, and it is
four feet from the bottoms of the posts
to the sills. The plates at one end
project two feet, and slats slant back
ward for a corn department. The
tloor is of matched stuff. The sides
are cribbed with hard pine, matched.
An alley runs through the building
from the door back to the corn-crib.
Along the sides are arranged the bins
lor oats, buckwheat, shelled corn, etc.
These are fitted out with movable
boards in front, so that they may be
taken out as the grain is lowered iu
the bin, aid putin at threshing time.
If any 01 the bins should not ba
needed, by taking out the boards iu
front a good place is provided for stor
ing bags of brau, or barrels. My
corn-sheller also finds a corner there.
The upper parts of the posts, below
the sills, are neatly wrapped with tin
to keep out mice. An easy pair of
steps, which may be raised or lowered,
furnish means of access.
T never saw but one mouse in this
granary since I built it, and this was
carried in in a pile of bags. I had no
peace until I got the cat aud helped
him to catch the mouse. Since tlieu
every bag that goes into the granary
is carefully examined. Mice may be
carried in also in baskets of stuff.
This may, and should, be carefully
guarded against. Of all the buildings
I have put up, and the number is not
small, none suits me better than my
granary.—E. L. Vincent in The Epit
omist.
Dairy Improvement.
Many dairymen who are making
little or no money from their herds
get discouraged when you talk about
improvement, because the goal to be
attained is set so far ahead of them.
Phenomenal cows, that are to the
dairy like fancy trotting horses to the
horse world, are held tip as "exam
ples" of what plodding dairymen
should strive for.
The man who is told to emulate tho
course of his dairy brother possessing
a 700 or 800-pound butter animal, has
a herd of cows in his own barnyard
that will not average probably over
150 pounds of butter each per annum.
Here is a wide gap to be bridged, aud
it cannot be done with the milch ani
mals he then possesses, or +he rations
he is then feediug. Phenomenal cows
are practically out of reach c.* the
average dairyman, aud to make tuein
they must be bred and fed toward
that end for several bovine genera
tions.
What is more practical and easily
attainable is to increase the butter
yield of cows from 150 pounds to 300
aud eveu 400 pounds per annum. Set
up a goal like this for the discouraged
dairyman to aim at, aud he has some
thing accessible aud iu plain sLlit to
work toward.
Take for an example the present
mixed breed now represented by the
cattle in his stable. They probably
have the physical makeup toon an
average yield a third or a half agaiu
as much milk aud butter as they are
now producing. If you believe them
to be fairly good cows you should, as
a preliminary step toward improve
ment, work them to their full capac
ities. This means that the feed ques
tion should receive your lirst especial
attention, and should never be lost
sight of while you are in the dairy
business. Yon know a steam engino
can run fast or slow, according to the
quantity aud quality of fuel being fed
into the furnace.
In this regard any cow, however
poor, is a great deal like a steam en
gine, and a liberal, well-apportioned
diet will cause her to make steam
(milk) to her full physical capacity.
Having tested your cows in this
way you can then easily separate tho
droues from the workers, the "goats"
from the "sheep." It is a losing pol
icy to feed poor milch cows after you
have proven that they are poor. Turn
them into beef then, and breed for or
buy better ones.
This is the second step toward im
proving a poor dairy. As I enjoined
at the beginning, do not set your goal
so far in advance of ycur capabilities
and possibilities that you will make a
failure iu striving for it. Once ou
the right track, advance step by step
until you have seetued what you have
striven for, better cows, more milk
and real profits.—George E. Newell,
in tho Cultivator.