NOTHING MENIAU
BT HELES BVEBTSOX SMITH
Id looking over six columns of wo
men's advertisents for "work wanted"
in a morning paper, we find twentr
jne advertisements of whicn the drift,
translated into plain term, is this:
"We want work; or, rather, we want
money, and snppo-e we shall have to
make some effort to get it We don't
know how to do an; thing in particular,
but we are willing to take any position,
providing some one else does the work
mil we get the money."
How else are to be construed ap
peals like the following; "A lady in
rednced circumstances would accept a
position as housekeeper, or anything
not menial!
It is true that twenty-one such pur
poseless wails are but a small propor
tion of the six columns of advertise
ments, most of them making at least a
olaim on part of the advertisers to pos
iess an ability to do some special
thing; bat they pot into words the
feeling of a very large class whose
ideas of the qualifications necessary to
earn a living in any way are still more
indefinite.
i-'or some years past I have been so
ituated as to know much of the piti
ful needs of helpless women, and the
till more pi if ul shifts to which they
will resort in order to escape the ne
cessity for work; and 1 have come to the
conclusion that the dictionary-makers
nave a good deal to answer lor in giv-
ing uomestio service as one 01 me
definitions of "meniall The resem- j ainus 01 crocnet are worKea in ex
blance between the sounds of mean ' tremely simple patterns, resemoling
and menial is so strong tbut the oon- the net work uped in guipnre d'art, the
elusion is almost irresistible to the nn- pattern being represented by groups
educated that "Meniil service is a of treble crochet. Hometimes only an
mean thing; hence, domestic- service, ! openwork design is crocheted, a closer
being menial, must be mean; of course,
only a mean person can do mean
things; we are not mean, therefore can
do nothing menial" a conclusion
which puts domestic service ont of the
question. Vet the two words not only
have nothing in common, but are even
derived from different languages;
mean in the sense of vulgar and base,
ooming from the Anglo-Saxon; and
menial, through the N'ormau-French
adjective nieinuf, from the noun
"iHKHnie family, household, or com
pany" and have not in their original
significance any closer relation than in
present fact, which is none at all.
In the struggle for subsistence the
poor are neo. ssarily handicapped.
though less so in this country than in
any other, and poor women everywhere
are even more heavily handicapped
than men; and this "menial" bugbear
Is one of the heaviest of the impending
weights.
1 once knew a pair of middle-aged
listers who had lust all by removing
their money from a safe investment at
Ave per cent, to pnt it in an unsafe
place st fifteen per cent. A wealthy
lady of their acquaintance rented and
stocked for them a small "fancy
itore' in the little town where they
bad always lived, and where everyone
folt kindly toward and wished to help
them. But the town was hardly large
enough to support such a store In a
way that would enable the two sisters
to hire nil the assistance which they
fancied they required. Even to keep
their own books they felt to le "meni
al;" yet there wa9 no help for it, and
one of them did manage to keep
their little accounts in a slipshod
ityle. The other sister, it seemed,
snuld not even do so much as this.
The lady who furnished the capital
was obliged to make all the purchases
herself and to affix the selling price to
each article, and even then would find
that the sister who most grudgingly
acted as "saleslady" would continually
oonfuso matters in such a war that for j
a hundied skeins of wool sold at one
time a greater price per skein would be
stked than if sold singly; that for a
five-cent paper of pins ten cents would
be demanded, or a spool of silk worth
forty cents would be sold for twentv.
To the miudd of these unfortunate sis
ters th earning of one's bread in any
lorm wag "meuiai, and the sole con
solution of their lives was in telling of
the luxuries they had once enjoyed
iwmon injuries grew no less in appar
ent number ami quality as they re
ceded from view).
Of course a speedy end came to this
sort of work, the patroness being de
cidedly ont of pocket from ner at
tempts to help, and the sisters uniting
in attributing their failure to her peu
anoosness and the harshness of an un
friendly world.
Another woman stranded on life's
lands by the death of her husband an
verworked bookkeeper decided that
ihe "would accept" a position ns house
keeper in a wealthy family where she
would have to do "nothing menial."
fjnder examination it was ascertained
mat she had never kept a house in
iven the plainest way, did not know a
"prime rib roast" from a "chuck,"
aad no idea -whetevsr of the require
ments of a fine establishment, and
Kuld not even have arranged the de
Kils for the simplest will-ordered din
ner. Mi 6 had fancied the duties of a
aousekeeper to consist eolely in hiring
nd discharging servants and paying
the monthly bil s. Kven for these
things she was unfit, knowing nothing
of the duties or rights of servants and
nearly as little of the simplest rules of
srithmetio.
A highly educated woman, who for
fears had been practically the honored
"head of the house" in the family of a
wealthy invalid widow, took pity on
this poor soul and said: "It is evident
that you do not know Ihe elements of
;he calling upon which yon wish to
nter. If you are in earnest, I will
leach yon, but I must have you under
my own eye. I am allowed an assistant
who must be able to fill any gap in the
Household service. You do not know
the things that such an assistant should,
bnt I will waive that and teach yon
svnrything, and you will have a good
Dome and jJl'J per month while learning.
"What what," liesita'iup'y queried
the api licant.'-whatshall I have to do?
"Well, you see, my dear," cheerily
replied the housekeejver, "if the cook
is ill, or quits, or misbehaves herself,
just when we expect a large party to
dinner, there must always be some one
who can step in and make good all de
ficiencies. I can, and have done so
many a time, I will teach you what
you have to do to make everything run
imoothly. In such an emergency,
when in the city, we send out and buy
what is lacking, but you most know
what and how to order, and how to
iish it all up, and see that it is properly
put upon the table. Then sometimes
we may have to change a chambermaid
9T waiter. Yon must know how their
work should hs done, or you cor.ld
not judge or train a new one. See?"
And the bright black eyes of the
housekeeper (a daughter of one of
New York City's lawyers in by-gone
days, aud widow of a clergyman)
looked encouragingly at the frightened
creature she was hoping to help.
"But," stammered the latter, a
woman who before her marriage had
been a worker in false hair, and whose
ideas were as false as the hair "bnt
can't do anything menial, couldn't
demean myself to housework I" and off
ihe walked, throwing away such a
chance for improvement as seldom
aomes to any one.
The next time we heard of her she
was working at her old trade, getting
four dollars per week, out of which
the must pay for board and lo lging. I
Bnt she is sustained by the thought
mi sue is aoing "nothing menial.
That all honest labor has an inalien-'
able dignity of its own, just because it
is honest labor, whatever may be the,
kind, whether light or heavy, agree- '
able or disagreeable, is a thing t'.at
cannot be too strontrlv insisted upon.
There are too many who think it pr. f-
erable to live in absolute penary
rather than to do any work that in
their eyes would seem to derogate
from the position which they falsely
esteem themselves to hold so long at
they can say that they have done
"nothing menial." Chriallan Union.
.fancy work.
Of all the dainty work with which
women can occupy their fingers and
their spare time, and which is capable
of gi eater variation than almost any
other form of fancy work, is that of
crochet. This work continues to in
crease steadily in favor, ana a large
, variety ol cotton ana threads ol all
colors have been lately placed on the
market lor this special purpose, x or
tunately, many of the prettiest pat
terns are the simplest, the more elab
orate ones resembling rassemeuterie
rather than lace. The latter varieties
aro made heavy and close, by having
the main portion of the pattern worked
over sinall leather molds and metal
rings, even wooden balls being covered
with stitches and made to answer
for drops and tassels. Handsome
trimmincm fnr ilrnNi-H nnrl rr. an(U Cftn
be made in this stvle. if one is not
obligi d to count the cost, as they must rupted by triumphant barks, crunch
be made of silk twist. Crochet made Ing of backbones between sharp little
with ivory cotton is largely used for teeth, an occasional angry yelp from
trimming canvao embroideries, and is a bitten terrier, and above all the din
extremely appropriate to the creamy
j 01 tue coarser aiuos 01 single
lul cnu uauvos, oumo ui iucmj uumaci
euect being given by durnmg stitches.
worked in colored flax, in and out
among the meshes of the crochet. In Qght well, a dog fight wasn't In it.
this work fina gold thread is largely j For several days previous a pro
used. In contrast to these course laces fesslonal rat catcher had been oper.
are the very delicate trimmings made iting In the basement, aided by a
with braids, some of which are so deli- j ;ouple of ferrets and the terriers.
cate as to resemble lace, mesa wasn
and wear well aud are very nselul
for trimming aprons, children's
dresses, morning dresses, as well as for
sideboard do h-, sheets, pillow slips,
and other articles for household nse.
Crochet is regarded by many who
have never tried it as very difficult,
bnt this is not true if one has the least
inclination for such work. It can eas-
ily be learned from written directions,
therefore we srive from an exchange a
.set of very plain instructions, which if
j careiuny ionowed cannot lau to resuu
i in success.
Terms tsed is Crochet. Chain
I eh. I 'io start a chain, make a slip
knot in the end of the material and
put the 1 o k through. Catch up
thread and draw second loop through
first, still keepiug it in the needle.
Catch thread aud proceed as before,
until required length is made. Single
crochet (8 c; put hook through work,
take up thread and draw through; t ike
up the thread again and draw through
the two stitches on the needle.
uou i. le crochet dci; tane np the
thread as if for a stitch, put the boon
through the work, take np thread and
... .u,Ku "a"
!. ti.i- ... i:t
r.ni,ta ,.ttwii.i.ii.T.ii.!ir..n
through a'l three stitches at once,
instead of two.
Long treble crochet fit cl; like
double, e-cept that the thread is taken
up i or put ovei I twice, instead of once
before insertion of hook in work, mak-
ing four stitches on the nee.lle. Work
otf by twos, as in double. In the extra
long ireDie i extra i t ci me inreaa is
Y r.l i. I it. V
, , , . . , i! , r .lsral sharp yelps, a squeal or two and
stitches being worked off as directed I . ' ' . j A. ,
for donhln I low n the corridor rushed three big
Picot l p i; chain three, four, or five
stitches and form into a loop by one
single or double crochet in first stitch
of chain.
Single Slit 11; two double crochet
I'd c put in one opening.
Double Shell; fonr doubld crochet
(d c I put in one opening.
All other shells are specified iu direc
tions pi ven as "a i-hell of three
Btitol.es" "a shell of five stitches," etc
these terms aud the methods of work
ing them out, onco fixed in the mind,
the crochet worker has a large fund to
draw upon and can applv her informs
tion in an almost infinite number of
ways.
BLOTTER COVKR.
Blotter Cover. This handsome
blotter is mounted in tan-colored plush
and cream satin. Ihe decoration on
the satin cover is partly in embroidery
and partly brush work in metallic
colors. The bow-knot is worked in
solid satin stitch with pink silk. The
larger of the scroll-like leaves are also
embroidered in delicate green si'ks.
with the dark edges in very fine chen
ille; the forget-me-nots are worked in
pale blue. For the not work, in the
corners, gold-colored silk is stretched
and caught down with stitches of gold
thread. The rest of the work is in
gold, green, and copper metallic colors,
the spider's web and border being in
gold, the Fcrolls and leaves in green
and copper colors. The blotter is tied
with a bow of pink ribbon with metal
tags at the ends.
USES OF THE FINE-ATl'LE.
The first mention made of this de
licions tropical fruit may be found in
Evelvn's diary, wherein ho writes that
it was brought" from liarbadoes, and
was esteemed a rare luxury at the table
of Charles the Second.
More than this, for late years we
read that one of the loveliest and thin
nest of fabrics, called "pina-cloth," is
made from the leaf 11 1 ires of the pine
apple plant. The threads of this duintv
texture, both of wrap and weft, are
each singie, unspnn fibres, conse
quently only small pieces of the finest
of these goods can be made and nnrrow
in ninth at that.
Of the coarser grades of this textile.
end to end may be joined in neat
fashion, ami increase the length of warp
threals, bnt only skilful hands can
make such delicate connection. Pina
cloth is very slrong, and the best
specimens far exceed the fine,t lawns
offered iu market.
.Ladies' handkerchiefs of this material
are olten rieh'y embroidered in silk,
thus becoming elegant and costly luxu
ries. Other have simply "independent
borders" in pale tintsbine, pink, or
cauary a few shimmering threads that
are extremely pretty additions; not
nnfreqneutly upon such one rinds a
finishing edge of narrow costly lace,
thus enhancing the general effect, and
they are r demand at Christmas and
other holiday times for dainty feminine
gifts.
The great bridge across the Missis
sip i River nt Memphis was opened for
traffic on May 1. The length of the
bridge including approaches, is 15,
63 .64 feet. Nine thousand tons of
tt'-el are required for the structure,
nd its cost will be about $3,000,004
RAT BAITING IN WASHINGTON.
rsrrst an! Tsrrlsrs In th Fostofflo
ntf Treasury Building-.
There was great sport up at the
Postoflice Department the other day.
If it could have teen advertised be
fore hand and an admission fee charged
the box offlce would probably have
tlone a big business. Kven without
this the audience was a distinguished
one, being headed by a cabinet officer,
no less a personage than Postmaster
General Wannamaker, and compris
ing also several assistant Postmaster
Uenerals there are four in the de
partment and a number of othw
oflieials.
Twenty-seven big nts, gray old pa.
triarchs of the rodent tribe, that had
infested the dark vaults of tha build
ing for years and grown wily and
tierce, were cornered in a room and
did battle royal with three under
sized but plucky terriers. They sav
it was a great tight. No one had an
opportunity to referee the rounds,
f rom the beginning until the end
there was a scrambling, scurrying
bunch of angry rats mixed up with
the three dogs, vicious squeals inter-
rising the applause of the spectators
wuo stood In the doorway watching'
gene.
The rats were outclassed, but they
made the best fight they could. They
were finally knocked out by the ter
riers. One of the witnesses, with a
tinge of sporting blood in his veins, i
laid afterward that it beat a cock
tight all hollow, and as for a dog
The rats w
were destroying the files and
It was necessary to get rid of theiu.
This modern pied piper of Haiuelin
put the ferrets in the rat holes. They
would disapear and 'pretty soon
there would be heard a great scam
pering under the floor. A dog would
then be stationed beside the hole to
Kill any rats that
came that way.
j Usually the rats were driven before
die ferrets and would come out at t.h
aie lerreis ami wouiu come out
oprmsite end of the building.
That's
jow so many were cornered in one
room. At least 500 rats were killed
and it Is thought the building is rid
of them altogether.
The fame of this exploit spread
abroad. The Treasury Department
people heard of It and sent for the
pied piper liamelin. He agreed to
dear out the rats anil promised to do
ill he could to duplicate the sport
which had been enjoyed at the Post-'
jttice Department. A messenger
I stood ready to summon the expectant
jtllcials as soon as "time" should be
L11lted. The clerks who knew of It
Kept t,,eir eve3 on theif cL,ef read
to follow them when they were called
to witness the fun,
One day the latter part of last
we-k. at the uoou hour, a number t
womeu clerks were promenading up
11IU down one or the long corridors,
caking a little exercise and exchang-
I'ug little feminine secrets and bit
if department gossip during this
a,lddav recess. There were probably
dfteen or twenty in the length of the
;rridor. Suddenly at the upper end
r trie corridor there were heard sc-v
?ray rats, hotly pursued by a terrier.
Dnward they caiue like the charge of
;he light brigade. Women to the'
right of them, women to the left of
;hem, on came came the thro rats.
Well, a man who was there says it I
was a sight! There was one long con
:erted feminine shriek, several Hashes
if white, and in alout twelve seconds !
:he corridor was empty.
The rat killer otierated in the
tiuilding for several days and killed a
arge number of rats but he did not
tucceed in cornering any; and now
;he officials are kicking because they
lidn't get as much fun as the I'ost
ttice Department sports. Washing
ton Star.
Hnlp ul Hints.
Rich, Juicy beef, minced fine and
'ormed into a steak, broiled ovei
irigtit, clear coals, Is very nutritious
ind acceptable to invalids who have
Decome tired of an ordinary steak. A
ine mutton chop, cut rather thick
ind laid for broiling between two other
.-hops cut very thin, makes a nourishi
ng and very palatable dish. The
jroiler should lie held so near the fire
.hat the outside chops become fairly
:harred bv the heat. They are there
'ore of no value afterward. Remove
.he center chop when it is done,
icason carefully and serve as soon a
possible.
A very strong beef tea or beef
nice, stiffened to a jelly by boiling a
alf's foot with the meat when it is
uade, may often be eaten cold when
hot beef tea will be refused. Al
ow one calf s foot to about three
xiunds of moat. Chop the meat,
.vhich should be clear lean beef, into
pieces about the size of a hickory nut.
Let the calfs foot be thoroughly
washed and split. Let the meat and
alfs foot simmer with a tablespoon-
ul of butter in the bottom ol
he brothpot till they are well
Drowned. Then put them a lust
nough cold water to cover them, and
et them come slowly to the boiiing-
joint. Skim the broth thoroughly
ind let it boil slowly, covered closely.
or five hours. It should never boil
violently, merely simmer, with bub-
jles rising slowly at the side of the
Dot. Strain it into a stone jar and
et it stand over night. In the morn-,
ng remove any grease that may have
iscn to the top. The stock should
e a delicate jelly. Break it up. Add
he white of an egg and an eggshell.
ut it in a clean stock pot and
ring it back to the boiling-point.
Let it toil again slowly for about flvs
ntnutcs. Remove the thick, leath-
ry scum, and strain tho claritied
clly into a clean stone pot, reason it
nd set it aside for use. There should
ot Im? more than a quart of It when
one. N. Y. Tribune.
Thu Uig-lnbottiam Ba-rsrs,
was 3 o'clock in tho mornine
v hen Mrs. Higinbotham shook her i
lushand. I
"Ugh," he responded unconsciously.
"Hiram! Hiram!" she exclaimed
n a whisper.
"U Ugh," he observed. I
She gave him another shake. !
"Hiram," she whispered, "there's
obbcrs down stairs."
"Ugh?" he ventured again, this1
.line with a rising inflection indicat
ng that he was gradually absorbing
.he idea that something was wrong.
She gave him a tremendous shake. I
n "i uwu.iuvou auuuicu. BllkllllC
traight up, ' what in thunder's the
ow, Maria?"
She clapped her hand over her,
oouth.
"Sh-sh ."she whispered, "there's
rarglan ( downstairs."
Aw," he growled, "we oucht to
thankful tK . ..,
Go to sleep;" and he fell back t tn
' pillow.
, "Hiram, I tell you," she Inslsteo
with another shake, "there's burglan
downstairs. I heard them. You kc
down and see what they want."
"Maria," he protested, "I'll dc
nothing of the sort. If they don't
see what they want they can asi foi
it. That's business."
I "But you shall go down, Hiram,
and see," she urged and pleaded at
the same time.
i "I won't, I toll you, Maria. Be
cause your father owns a dry goods
store is no sign that I believe it is no
trouble to show goods, and I repeat,
madam, if those burglars wmt any
thing they've got to wait on them
sehes. It's after business hours an)
way. You must think we run an all
night place. Go to sleep, I tell you.'
Mrs. Higinbotham gave a sudden
clutch at his arm.
"There," she nearly screamed, !
near them coming up-stairs, now."
i "Well, dear," he said soothingly,
"you'd better jump up aud put on s
dress. It will never do in the world
for you to receive strange gentlemen
In your present attire."
"We'll be murdered In our beds,"
ihe wailed.
"Do you really think you will?" h
inquired with some interest.
"I'm sure of it Hiram," she sobbed.
"Suppose you get out and lie on th
door, Maria, and then you won't be,'
he suggested heartlessly. "I'm will
ing to take mine right here in bed,
where it's warm."
Mrs. II. began to cry.
"What's the matter, Maria?" Mr.
H. asked as if he had Just that mo
ment discovered her grief.
"You're a mean, horrid man, Hiram
fliginbothaiu," she said in her na
tural voice, aud she began to get out
,t bed.
"Where are you going, Maria?" in
Inquired, uneasily.
"Down stairs," she answered hero
ically. "As between you up-stairs ano
the burglars down stairs, I prefer the
burglars," and down stairs she went,
and the black cat in the preserve
Iloset upset four jars of her finest
luinces in its mad effort to escape.
She screamed, but Hiram Higin
botham made no sign; he knew he
h:id fo.ri70.t.teri to nut. t.ha rnt. tn
-n..r u i, i. v,.. .. . ..
the night and reported to his wife fnllure :lt hm"11 llat button, ot the kid
n.i . .;.. . ..... .i .v.. havo gilt dots in the centre und are
tliateveo thing was all r.ghtlrei1 g,,t eiled T-pj are fii,tl.ned by loo,,8
t less. if gQe COTlt Bnj are naej to close
- j corsages and sleeves.
I Faucv outing fiaunels will be esie-
INFtUENCE OF CALMY AIRS.
r Thuy Bosnia to lbs Bast Vigor at '
Kncoarsgtiig? I
In the name of reason and veracl. '
ty, out of what peoples have mainly
.rome the art, the science, the power
and the glory of the world? From
what nations have we received
the richest legacies of the human
brain and soul? From the dwellers'
in harsh climates, or from those
countries where, life being something'
beside a ce:'a eless struggle with the
elenieuts, the soul has had time to '
blossom? asks a writer in Kate Field's
Washing ton. How about all those'
enervated and emasculated races, I
anyway?
How about Arabia, which preserved
for ages the learning of the world? ,
How about the entire Orient, "the
originatress, the nest of languages,'
the bequeather of poems?" How
about the Hebrews "ancient of an.'
cients;" the old empires of Assyria
and Persia and India, venerable
mother ahd priestess? Ho about
Egypt, builder of imperishable monu
ments? Did not Palestine send forth a
prophet or two under her midsummer
Christmas stars?
Mere not a "flowing HteratHre," a
rather splendid chivalry, a Cid Cam
peadar, a Cervantes sent out of Spain,
aud a Columbus and a Galileo out of
Italy?
j The ancient Romans were a toler
able active and energeric body of men,
considering the enervating climate
' a body with a good deal of mind to i809. "9 ,l Is Sut and dainty and
I leaven it withal. Several more than rH.tSST ' One nn
I ,...,, v..- w I, . . portant point should bo remembered
?1 K,', mind,3 c,aiue ut0 about these waists and that is, thev
' other cities of the peninsula. Bayand ghould alwaV8 be handsomely made and
laurel come near hiding the lilies of lined and finished as nicely as if the
riorence.
Greece reared herself an Immortal
ic 111 pie or two ocueatu ner siuuiog
skies. ;
t Arj, science, philosophy, statecraft
the matchless craft of war. nower.
knowledge, beauty, all the graces of
living and the strength of life, the
poet, the painter, the musician, the
student, the philosopher, the hero,
the saint, have all been cradled In
the breast of the sacred south. The
light of the world through a thousand
windows ha streamed from a south
ern sun.
Against their glorious record what
shall we set? Russia. Norwav.
Sweden, Great Britain even Ger
many, the new home, but not the
mother or the birthplace, of music
The sum of these and many more
will not balance by a long count the
splendid overweight of the other.
By Any Othtir Mama.
The young man laid his cigarette
down on the hall table w hile he went
in to interview his father on the
financial situation. After a few pre
liminaries he said:
"By the way, pop, can I have a few
stamps' to-day?"
"Postage stamps?" inquired, the
father Innocently.
"Xo, sir," was the impatient re
ply; "I mean scads.'"
"Scads my son?" inquired the old
gentleman, in mild astonishment.
"1 mean the 'tin,' of course."
"And what is the 'tin,' may 1
ask?"
"Oh, the 'ready, don't you know?"
"JNo, 1 don't know."
"Don't you know, 'spondulix'?"
"1 can't say that I da Who is
he?"
"Aw, come off, pop. What I'm oui
for is the stuff'?"
"What stuff?"
"Why the 'soap,' of course?"
"Ihe soap? Are you in need of
bath?" and the father looked over his
specs inquiringly.
"No, no," impatiently. "I meaD
the sugar."
"Oh; sugar and soap? Going to
make a plaster are you?"
"Plaster nothing. I want tht
chink.'"
"Chink? What's chink, pray?"
"Why, It's 'dust Anybody knows
that."
"Oh, yes, excuse me. Get the brush
over there."
"Tisn-t that kind I want. It's
-rocks?"
"Well, there's dust in rocks, Isn't
there?"
"Won't you never catch on?" ex
ciaimea ine young man. "I wan't
the duff.' the wherewithal' don't you
know; the 'rhino,' the 'boodle,' plain,
ordinary every day cash, pod, that,
what I want" '
"Oh," exclaimed the father In t
neatly relieved tone; "here's a quar.
ter " and that.', on --
nT- ' vyiUU
CUE RENT FASHIONS.
Above all cations the French show
the greatest genius for shades end har
monious combinations, and it is from
them that we obtain most of our plans
of coloring and combination of shades
and contrasts.
At present the colors are s de
lightfully soft and harmonious, that
there seems to be no exense for offend
ing in tli-s direction. All the present
fashionable colors are capable of sev
eral contrasts, and this is one of the
points that should be carefully studied
by every woman when selecting her
costumes.
Dress 6kirts continue to be of Simple
shope with a tendency to decrease in
length. The "Cornet" which hai suc
ceeded the "Cmi rella" shape has one
a.lvArtace in that it has a team at eacn
side cf the skirt, one for the pocket
and another for the placket hole. It
requires less mater al and is likely to
be extensively adopted for all Buinuier
fabrics. It is l rettily trimmed with
lace or guipure over the hetn, and a
ailk frill beneath. These fckirts are
bbsv to make, and bting tlightly
trained, in accordance with the present
fashion, no i.itliculty will be found iu
cutting off the small train, thus reduo
ina it to walking length.
While every part of the skirt Is made
with a simplicity that borders on se'
vei ity, the bodice and sleeves show great
elaboration. The bodice proper par
takes of three styles the long lius
sian blouse, the short pointed basque
with the coat-tail back, and the Corse
let bodice. In spite of the prevalence
of Ihe liussian blouse, deep basques
are decidedly going out of fashion, and
the maioritv of dresses are now made
with short-waisted or pointed bodices,
generally accompanied with some form
of corselet.
Dress t-leeves have Mill more or less
fulness on the shoulders, while very
many are in the mil ton-leg shape, long
and very close from elbow to wrist
and upon handsome gowns are fin
ished with a fall of real lace. The
bishop variety, with a cuff of greater
or loss length, will be a fHVorife style
nil summer for net, lace, organdy,
lawn, and light fabrics of every de
iijription. .Leather and lace cs a trimming Tor
the same dress are apt to bo thought as
incongruous as the fur and lace used
so much on cloth dresses last winter,
yet we see circles of tan-colored kid
trimmed with gill cord and lapped in
rows to form a galloon for edging
I white guipure
luce yokes and cnlts of
cially popul r for country dresses this
year, their dainty gingham-like stripes,
checks, and dots giving them great
variety ia color. Another favorite
material for wear at summer resorts,
are the gay Bedford cords in fancy
stripes, of white, with colors of every
description. '1 hese fabrics ore ad
mirable for walking, boating, etc.
They are mofj with short skirts and
loose jackets.
No 151ft. BACK vrrw.
The dainty waist has long been a
feature for house or morning wear.
colored nanuel made np in
pretty style and finished at the
nrists and neck, and down tho front,
wun rows ot stiicning makes a verv
serviceable house waist. But now the
silk jacket is taking its place. China
S11K 18 lD0 best material ot all lor these
waist proper of the dress. Other ma-
tensls than silk may be used with verv
goodenect.
Ihe cambric, sateen and cbanibrey
shirt waists are almost a9 pretty as ihe
more elaborate pilk ones. Many of
them are made with narrow pleats,
tame have a fnll ruflle down the front,
ana an nave me sailor collar and deep
enns.
Nothing is prettier for these waints
than the enameled ribbon buckles.
They are made in dainty designs, and
exactly match the real ril'bou belt
which rnns through them. The newest
bnckle of this kind consists of two rib-
bon rosettes, which book together.
The gold ribbon buckle is pretty and
can De worn witn any Pelt or dres
The tea gown, which combines the
ease of the dressing gown with the
ich eleganco of tho afternoon reeep
ion dress, has proved itself too nselul
to ever be given np. Ladies receive
their afternoon callers in a tea gown
and, if it is a very dressy one, may
wear it for dinner, if the dinner be
served to the home party alone. Every
woman of taste, however, never forgets
that it is strictly n home gaiment The
ne w Pompadour tea gowns are made
ol flowered China silk, French cash
mere, challi, soft sutius, with both
!ght and dark backgrounds sprinkled
with small brilliant jai-dincre designs.
They are made with a square yoke and
ra her full belted front, with aWatteau
foji in the back fulling straight from
'he neck, the fold very narrow bnt
4
Ko. 1547. BACK VIEW.
thickly pleate-l at the top. The bishop
ileeves are of tha broca led goods, with
tvey long close coat etlect from the
dbow, this portion being of velvet or
lk covered with point de Oene lace.
Some of tbe more expensive tea gowns
je trimmed wun bertnan, curls aud
gathered ruches of black Chantilly, or
i very fine imitation in silk of black
Spanish guipure lace. Crcpon is also
w,ely used lor these gowns, which
isnally have pnneasie back and large
.tli elhow sleeves, ine SRirts are full
n tho train and hang grace fa lly in
ross-cnt folds. Tho lace or crepon
ronti are often lined with soft shot
ilk.
' he prettiest articles of attire just
ow are the petticoats. Some of them
ma ia of black motrs silk. stritMd
,...V-A..'
&3
No. 1516.
No. 154-t. .No. 1510.
with narrow lines of pink, blue and
yellow, and have tlueo ruches of the
different colors set round the hi m at
intervals of two inches. These ruches
are either out of fringed silk or of
satin ribbon. Other petticoats are
made of shot satin with a gathered
flounce of satin round the hem, and
over this falls a flounce of lace sewn on
with a double heading, through which
are rnn baby ribbons to be tied into
rosettes here and there.
In gloves the suede in verv liufct
shades, like pearl, mode, lavender and
white, finished in black and fcelf colors
are the most stylish. Where a wrap is
not worn, gauntlet gloves will be seen,
bnt with a wrap the eighi-bnt on mos
set better nnder the sleeves. Glace
gloves in the four-button lengths wili
also be worn, as many ladies prefer
this make in spite of the suede. For
morning wear, traveling, etc , a four-
button gray ylace is usually selected,
as mis coior win Harmonize wit a any
tint except tan. kith uutlzr,
So. 15ij0
Spring Toilet tes. No. 1510, shows
a gown of tan-colored.
Kedford cord, with anitliotip. em
broidery mingled with brown velvet
The bodice is hooked at the back, and
made in corselet sboue. rointed at. t.ii
lower edge and straight across the up
per, above which is a fnll guimpe of
tan-colored bengaline silk. The sleeves
are made to correspond, bavin? nnfTk
of bengaline above close sleeVea nf
Bedford cord. The bell skirt. linAil
with silk, is sewed inside the edge of
the bodice, thus forming a one-piece
dress.
Mo. 1547. The second cost n mo in of
pray Cheviot with a selvage border of
blue. Tho boll skirt is bordered near !
ine lower eugc, gatueiod at tho top of I
iub uacn auu nuisned with a narrow
binding, which is covered by a belt
made of ribbon to match the bnrrlnr
i
No, 1651
: ZW'PPfK -v' -? ' SsM ' & v Ta The 'oram at Home was oriB;
rty ' K J market-place. It became aboM
hV;- -K'f?l i W-W-T I 'V-' V - n 1 B.C. the place of assembly of then
lJi4kM--r P- tribes (the Comity
- W) V'53s2& i. , KiV f : was gradually adorned with te-nU
LvV. XJZvJ&fflsX : I -yLt ' nd public buildings. Near D
Pr .-. Y,- .r; Bfe itM'r&$k t rrebroniiinMo.i, the Hom J
b VS.. 24 V WiPT defeated by thn i of hs, November
' iLTt TSI "WWt fe'" 3 After struggle i.i the mor tue'pi1'
: . wl4 I V "v:i f BS& poror Decius and Li, son w-re .1
fr.-.i:-jKjl. - KawW V '" ad tLeir boJies no recovered.
iy'Wi V I " Yi$fe" V- proposed, astl.e science of ele.
&I4 E: y$k?l& V TT v" '-iA " Incity has no name of its own Z X
1' ."V -tit "electrics," 'Ihe pair 0f
'iHSUy -V V; . . ''electrics" and electricu, .
pSxrV?-V,,V-- S $ VrlV V rV. "rv-:. j be in analogy with optics and opticuuT
V :J$Mi 6ri;Mv! vf: . mechanics and mech.nician.maQ
hfeif ; ( ,C5 aDd ""thematician. and
WAtMW-E. - n$m$ Tdb olde-t bank note on reeorl i.
-lV'V:AteV:; - v M-Hl Cbinese note painted about
,S ?' $2&(x9::Jt K rS"- W -. - ' I Qow in the Utitisj Museum. m
fe;V!:SFv V: nTLere arebut three su,vivow of
HMp-Vi. I. P Doctor Kane seM eait.on to the Areni
SSt i M-VS r. ? V Iftefl I not seem to ex-st b.luw m
' ;(h m'th'i &;iA:orV'; -:, y-. fathoms (2100 feet., with the except
i''t'':v: " " 9f the shark, which has been cauJ,
' - ' VC-M Prints to the rea,H,.t, .iliweaWtn
- t$&&&: ' X inR bnt l,1,l,-k a,,r,n" i order ?
jSV ju-.?J.-'4&w? TvffSrJ " sommemorato the centenuiil of
KO. 1517.
The belt is sewed to a point in the bad
and buckled at tho lront The edc;e o
the bodice is slipped nnder the edge o
-I,;. T.. i,.i,-. u l.,-rrn,l at th
waist line, both in front and back, witi
the upper part made iu the form of .
Mikado jacket, bordered at the lowe:
edge. The left half of the front of thi
jacket is hooked on the shonlder anc
undor the arm, the front of the badici
lieing hooked down the ruidd'e.
Children's Coats. No. 154S. Tin
cloak for a little pii'. five years old n
made of light gray, mixed wool, wit!
sleeves and yoke of dark green benga
line. The square yoke of silk, shirroc
with a heading au inch and a quartei
ueep ut the Decs: to lorm a stundiui
. ,i .. .. .
collar, is cathtred at the tower edgi
and at the arm hole, and bordered witl
a bund of ti e. cl-ak material which n
lightly braided or father-stitched
'Ihe sleeves of bcngaline have deei
caps of cloth ornamented with braid
ing, as is the belt, end the l.umi ex ;
tending down the right side of thi
loak. which conceals the opening.
So. 1519. For tte second c'oal
beige colored Cheviot is used, cios
barred with scarlet threads, and trim
rned with a milled collar
beugaline forming bretclles.
of browi
This coa
Ko. 1552.
is made in princsse shape with a fu
vest of the coat material, shirred at th
neck, and sleeves shirred at the wristi
to match. A belt of the same material
bound with brown ribbon complete!
iue coat.
AO. looJ. Clotse Uopice. Thi
front and back of this model are gather
fd at the waist and neck, aud th
pleated basque which is added, has thf
joining cov. re. 1 liy the round belt o
pub. iaeemeuieriu. 1110 mil sleevef
are finished with deep cuffs of paste
4-!
v. :f v 1
No. 1553.
menb rie, and the same trimming de
senile small, round vest fronts on the
oodiee. Straight collar of the bloiife
mater io 1.
No. 1551. Summer CArE. This cir
cular cape is of gray crepon striped
with silk, and lined with satin to match
the silk stripe. It has a Wattean pleat
at the bock, and a pelerine of rich,
black gnipure with jet and lace bands.
lined with satin.
.no uimi, uaium collar in nt nnm
pnre, Laving
bow of blank ,,, -fiL
nun eugod wun
bon with lonir ends f,.t,.n.i .
back. The bottom of the c..,.o i, f "
mml with nn inoi.rimn i - u
ouu it uouuee ot j ,
guipure.
No. 1552.
A group of enameled but-
tons.
No. 1553. rinnrrv T"tTrrr c-
iORMsron Tailor Gown. This is a1
pretty, new, and simple bodice es-'
pecially becoming to slender 6gnres. I
aii-eoiorea wool
trimmed with brown braid. Ihoslashed
18 of tan-coloreil ,,1
m uouice is out tone!
med with narrow braid. Trn.'VI;
With a hnllnn u . . . . '
over.
1T i , INO
7,lu,CT vTiun edges the bodice, and
also covers the straight collar. The
sleeves, close at the wrist, are sloshed
IT-i .Vrume,'.1 V In.8tc,, " lo,lice.
...e neii sKirt is finished with a
ui uie oraid around the
torn.
be?
TOM THCMH DAHLIAS.
air. i. w. trirdlestono, of England,
! IT u-'f1 a new 8trBin ot dahlias
' S. V'b he has 'von tue abve name
I The plants are of dwarf habit as the
name indicat.-s and grow from nine to
.v. iU-uea iu neigdt,
Troiucin(T
lucir Biucie nowera
distinct colors are already announced,
and other styles and varieties will rrob-
Ihis class of dahlias have Romany
ltw-B that .th?y wil1 onqnestion-
Lis Tonlt1 into
The new University of Chicago wUi
have a campus of twenty-five acre
ir.ere's nothing m size when
a ,inf
w" exeri more Influen
omo men Uian a church spire.
Infl.ion. Z 1
.. . Vr
lffe fi O'
I
GLEANINGS AT HOME
ABROAD.
The city of St. t;enne in franc
Whirl,
are made on about eighteen
bund looms in the homes of tne peoTi
With a view of assisting these inf
tries, the city has arranged to run .n
these looms by elccticiiy. 1
in Narcaw, w una, Lowlier anj
Uracow, have sent l ack to Vi, Uua au
Jther cities, iic.:or,ling to previous un-
ran
jerninuuiUK, niu fooiiH II, ry ljaJ j.
stock, and have received bl ack mater
ials instead, r.ounots, ploves, dresses!
turs, oud jewelry are nil to bo black.
T r 1 f " a f.. it . . irci n..t i," f t-.
xn. a .ww.. i.i.iiti ti, .u in rellfinna
paintings winch for 1UH II V Vt-ars has h
-n exhibition m a Lond.,1, gallery, lU
bronght to this country and carriej
sbont from place to P if the nece.
arJ- ca'11tal c"u ,,e obtained,
! Is Surrey Comity, North Carolina
there is a mountain whose ontline di
1 plays a striking likeness to the Sj.hym
af F.gypt. It is in the crthwesiVra
part of the State, just ea-t of the Blue
liidge range, and lies prone upon the
Piedmont plains. At a diUuee of tea
miles the figure is the exact coucter-
part of that of a gigantic liou, its bo,ly
i rK"i uuies iu iue precipitous rul.T,.
i ...
sou. uu nean
re ared aloft as if in the
vet of rising.
The Poet's Niirci.-.ns is a flower of
s clear ivory white carrying a goUt-n
3rown tipped with pink in its mid-rt.
It bends gently over aud delights ia
inado and moisture.
The old fables regarding this flowf-r
represents it as the metainorphn-ig of a
roung shepherd with whom a thousand
oymplm bad fnben in love. Kcho waa
;reated with iudifference by t!ie yontli
ind her lieauty wasted away. The nity
ng gods changed her body to stone bnt
;ould not heal her mind, and she still
zanders in remote places bewailing her
achapi-y fnte. Narcisms was over
jiken by retribution, for, f.i Hi m? asleep
ine day at the brink of a f. nntain aaJ
m awaking, desiring to quench his
:hirst, lie bent over the clear waters
where, seeing bis own im:iu'e he be
:ame s fascinated by it thit he
jould not leave the spot. Love
mocked him but Echo heard,
pined und answered him, and so pine.1
away until he died of his "own dear
loveliness," as Shelley has it.
Descending into the shades, he sought
the river Styx from whoso shadowy
banks nothing enn entice him away.
His sisters, the Naia Is, bewailed h s
leath oni, with the help of the dryads
raieed a funeral pile h le Ilio followed
nd repeated the plaints of the nymphs;
but when they sought his body to place
upon the tunerul p lo it was gone anil,
in its place, grew a pale liunvr droop
ing over the river's brim. r"rom that
lay tbe Funienides adorned their
brows with these tl iti r-, emblematic
)f Egotism, of all follies the saddest
ind most foolish. Tims runs the an
sient fable of "Narcissus pining o'et
;he n itainted spring."
Women to ttork the Switchp.
In Holland, where a gooil deal ot
alcoholic liquor is takcu in cotii-.--quencc
perhaps of tne temptation ol
there bein always water at hand to
mix with it men can no longer be
tru-ted to work the svvit. ii. s on tht
railways, and women now Ml their
places. This is a slap in the fa.-c in
deed to the male sex and a .;eut tri
umph to tbe advocates of female
labor. But we have yet t s-e h
the thintr works. The men ay that
there will be looking-glass
in tliti
women
v have
sw.tcn boxes and that tli
will never leave them till 1
smoothed their lat hair and settled
tbe bow of their last ribbon, and that
n the meant hue there will l e col
lisions; that when left to th
!ll-c!V-
for the
not be
mi: and,
they never h ive been in time
train as passengers, and will
more punctual as jmmNwoin-vi
finally, that if they bear their 1
whistle anvwbere in the n ij
iver';
uiiiior-atten-ve.
If
d. rou-Dutch-
hood they will pay very Httk
tion to that of the locoinot
these objections arc not vaii
elude the men, '-we arc not
men."
TflE AFTK liXOON NAP,
German women, with
wompti. with vptv
few ex
ceP: cnH-.. Bl'en'' "'0 mteriioon lrom
i midday dinner nutil 1 o clock coilee m
I ?'oeP- e"'l'li "t very hard upon
: these
pxcdlcnt creatures, who h ive
risen earlv to superintend household
niatters and prepared their Im.-biiids'
breakfasts ntau hour when we are calm
ly sleeply in darkened bedroom". No!
rather let ns rejoice that the luxury is
sheerfully accorded to them by their
lords and masters.
it ;.. ..M - ,
i c i . ' , '
notlwast of risii:ff with the l.irk ,'nnle59
! Ilia lorl- . . , i
a 111- IV ..
! "S sample of their
...v i , I.--- 3 in, mi.i. ii i. lirp iirein
Ucrnian sisters. A well-known lmlr.
. hailim; from i!oston, is busily ens ured
descanting in black and white on the
hunilred and one advantnges of an
( afternoon nnp. "Ibi f nu honr's nsp if
all too short for von! lt it be n pond
hour, denr sisters," she exclaims, "and
yen have no idea how von will wnrd of!
ape and wrinkles! Morn nnrticnlar-
j ly I implore my novelist and journal
istic friends to court nature's soft
nurse. The c) aj ters and parngrapli!
.will flow from the pen in don bio quick
time if a good two hours' sleep is in
dulged in Infore theevening's work be
gins. I'emovo gown aud corset, and if
yon want to rest in the most restful
. fashion in Ihe world, do away with th
-Jillow and lie But."
Poverty is vpry good in poems, but It
very bad in a house. Ic Is very good ii
maxims and In sermon?, but lsverybaJ
in practical life.
man ci-n get wisdom enough t4
ke p biin from srvlng to-morrow thai
he bus been a fcol to-day.
A single steamer carried a carco ol
I copper valued at $010,000 ont of .Lak
I .S 11 1 . r 1 ui r Tl.ia ... .... : 1 i 1
. , ' . nam w xinvtf wrs
v valuable
cargo which evei
(passed through the St, Marj'f oaaal il
a single vessel, D