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gr FOR TTIE nOME DRESSMAKEK36'
THESE arc chic models designed
especially to be worn at the
Southern resorts. As a matter of
course they forecast the coming of the
Spring fashions. What the fortunate
few wear in the South during the
Winter, the majority of womankind
will wear all over the country when
Summer is at its height. For the
younger contingent there is a notable
A Dainty Night Gown and How
It can be Made and How
Embroidered By May Manton
THE liand-made underwear is
always the daintiest, the most
attractive and the most in de
mand. This little night gown is so
simple that it involves very little
labor while it gives charming and be
coming lines, and if you use the pretty,
simple embroidered design you can
6et a wonderfully dainty effect with
x-ery small expenditure of time and of
labor. You will notice that there are
two quite different shapes, but the one
pattern provides both. The gown is
made with the sleeves and body por
tion in one or in kimono style, conse
quently, there are only two seams
to sew up. In whichever way you
finish the neck, it is designed to be
slipped over the head. There is no
jpeninj, consequently, there are no
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buttons and buttonholes to be made.
The sleeveless gown with the V-shaped
opening and the Empire ribbon is very
charming and very dainty for warm
weather wear. For the colder nights,
the round neck with the sleeves will
undoubtedly be preferred. For that
gown, lace insertion is applied over
the lines in the pattern on which the
ftown with the V-shaped neck is cut out.
The gown is cut all in one piece, on
the fold of the material, and if that
material is not wide enough you will of
necessity be compelled to join selvaged
edges to obtain the width. The best
plan to follow is to make the gown
before the embroidery is done. To
do this, sew the scams with fine
stitches, taking what is known as a
back stitch and two running stitches
at one time, then trim off one edge of
the seam. Turn the other edge under
and hem down onto the gown itself to
make a flat fell finish, which is the
simplest and pleasantest and the
prettiest for garments of the sort. You
could make the French fell or the
cjouble seams' but it is scarcely less
labor and it doe# not make as pretty
er u attractive a finish. In the illus
tendency toward simplicity that is
charming. Fabrics arv.' very beautiful,
colors are exquisite and even bright
and it is only by such simple designs
that such effects can be utilized of
their best.
For morning occasions when one
may motor or play tennis or ;olf or
ride the wheel or indulge in any fancy
of the sort there are a great many
tration, the neck ajwf the sleeve edges
of the V-shapcd gown are underfaced
and finished with machine hemstitch
ing that is very pretty, but instead
of that hemstitching, they could be
scalloped using very fine scallops, or
you could undcrface and use a tiny
little insertion as finish in place of the
hemstitching, or you 'could underfacc
and attach the facing with some fine
fancy stitchery, as a briar stitch or a
succession of French knots. The
slashes for the ribbon require to be
worked as eyelets, that is to say, cut
the slit, then push the material up on
the wrong side and work closely over
and over using a fine embroidery
thread for the purpose. Now you will
be ready for the figures on each side
of the front.
Transfer these to the material, usins:
an iron that is hot but not scorching.
Outline the stems and work the re
mainder of the design either solidly or
0 as eyelets, or partly solidly and partly
as eyelets as you prefer. A pretty
effect can be obtained by making the
daisies-and the leaves as eyelets and
the dots all in solid work, but each
individual will like to decide just how
that design should be treated, and it
is possible to make a number of varia
tions, simple as it is.
To make eyelets, punch with a
stiletto then push the material back
and work closely over and over. For
solid work, darn backward and forward
lengthwise of the figure and work over
and over in the opposite direction.
When the embroidery is completed,
press and for the purpose use a turkish
towel folded several times.
' \ To make the gown with round neck
and the sleeves, the edges are to be
scalloped and the designs arranged
one on the front and one at each side.
For the scallops, work a chain stitch
between the lines, heavy at the centPrs
and lighter at the points, or cut a skein
of thread and apply tvyo or more
strands over the design, tacking here
and there in couching style and draw
closely together at each point, then
buttonhole closely over the padding.
Mark on the garment the perforations >
in the pattern that indicates the lines
for the V-shaped neck and the sleeve
less arm-holes. Apply lace insertion
over these lines. Baste carefully and
tfrmly into place, then whip each edge
firmly to the material with tiny close
stitches and when you have done this,
cut the fabric away beneath the lace
the transparent effect
attractive designs. On the one hand
one sees the coat suit of pongee or its
counterpartor of glove silk or perhaps
of a thinner washable fabric. On the
other, the daintiest little lingerie frocks
Smart By May
PRESENT fashions seem especially
designed in the interests of the
home dressmaker. The models
ate simple, there are no intricacies and
no special difficulties in the makina i
ol any garment. What is needed is a
certain sense of color and of fitness and
a eye to get the correct liw*. Wmu
that arc really fascinating. They are
rssentially girl-like and they make a
very pleasant contrast to the coat
suits that have become so generally
accepted.
Girls who like to tramp the country
whatever the season find the simple
one-piece frocks desirable, and serge,
linen and cotton gabardine are favorite
materials.
have these, you can make your own
gowns with certain success. Anions
the costumes shown here, for example,
i there is not one that is in any way
difficult or elaborate. Coat suits seem
planned with simplicity in mind. Any
woman who can cut and sew should be
able to make them.
The two frocks designed for young
pirls give evidence of different effects,
but both are plaited and plaits make
a notable feature of the incoming
fashions. You may have a straight
kkirt that is all plaited or you may havi
a skirt that combines nlaita with olain
WE are living in an exceedingly
interesting period in spite of
its tragedies. Nearly, if not
quite, unprecedented conditions exist.
There are inevitable shortages in cer
tain directions, yet. to the casual ob
server everything is beautiful, every
thing is abundant, there is every op
portunity for the making of handsome
and satisfactory costumes.
Simple Embroideries are Uced
with Good Effects.
It has been stated again and again
that dyjjs arc scarce and the supply
*of fabrics more or less curtailed, but
a trip through the shops would hardly
suggest any such condition. There are
really wonderfully beautiful materials
and there is a certain splendid color
apparent that is noticeable. What
ever we lack for the Spring, we do not
lack color. There is a certain shortage
in applied trimmings, but it is being
more than compensated for in the
clever way in which embroideries arc
handled. If the necessity for such
finish has done nothing else, it has
unquestionably established the needle
woman's art. It is astonishing what
beautiful effects a few simple stitches
can produce. A very lovely afternoon
gown that-is to make part of a Feb
ruary trousseau of Georgette crSpe
in'a wonderful shade of yellow that ha 3
depth and quality and at the same
time is light in tone. The skirt is
finely plaited and just below the hips
to give a suggestion of a yoke line,
there is a little embroidery across
the front and back that shows a
design of a conventionalized wild
rose with leaves. The petals of the
roses arc all outlined with blaek,
within this outline they arc darned
with rose color and occasional gold
threads and the leaves are darned
with green. It makes a most attractive
finish, it gives a very beautiful color
effect and the work is sketchy, it is so
slight. The very newest blouses, too,
are of the Georgette crepe that seems
to fit the purpose as nothing else quite
does, braided with a little straw braid
used just as soutache would be, and
if readers, any of them, have hidden
away in the treasure houses of the
past, costumes that belong to the
middle of the last century, these
straw trimmed gowns will be found.
They were regarded as very chic in
those days and some of the effects
that can be produced are charming.
Today we use the straw on Georgette
crfpe. Our grandmothers and great
grandmothers used it upon taffeta,
and the taffeta of that day was a
heavier silk than the taffeta of the
present, but nevertheless, the colbr
effects remain.
t-paces or you may have a frock that
shows either box plaits or side plaits
attractively used, but you must have
plaits found somewhere in your ward
robe if you will be quite up-to-date.
The box plaited frock illustrated
shows a pretty new monk's collar and
draped pockets that make very smart
features, and they seem especially well
adapted to the younger contingent.
Slightly open neck with long sleeves
are thown in the greater number of
new frocks and unquestionably the
combination .vill make a lk*nje of the
incoming season.
Spanish Influence is Apparent in
the Bolero. '
Verily is thtfre nothing new under
the sun in the world of dress at least,
for what we take to be novel is apt
to be an old idea put forth in new
forrp. The braid of today is quite a
different braid from that of old and
the effects are different, but the idea
emanates from the past, nevertheless.
There are two notable features to be
found on the costumes that are being
made for the Summer trousseaux and
for the various functions of the mid-
Winter. The Spanish influence is
apparent in the Bolero idea and the
simple chemise gown is little by little,
step by step, being evolved into a
modification of the princesse idea. We
shall not have the tight princesse gown
for a Ion? time, perhaps we never
shall have them again. It is to be
hoped that we will not. They are apt
to be trying, they are fit only for
women of ideal figures and they really
are not becoming even to the best
formed women of today. The semi
fitted models seem better adapted to
the modern conditions and among the
costumes to be noted are scrme very
attractive designs made on these lines.
The Bolero effects crop up in a great
many different ways. A very charming
little costume that is to go South this
week is qiade with a simple full skirt
and little bolero-like jacket hanging
in straight lines, open at the front and
again at the side seams. There are
various details and features that give
it smartness and crochet, but perhaps
the most interesting feature is the
soft girdle of Oriental silk that is ar
ranged around the figure and that
falls in long ends at one side and is
knotted under the arms, just where
the open seam referred to falls. The
suit in question is of soft blue serge
and this bit of Oriental silk is exceed
ingly smart. The sleeves, by the way,
are finished with bell-shaped cuffs.
Bell shaping makes another notable
feature of the newest models and un
doubtedly we are to have bell sleeves.
The bell-shaped cuffs are already estab
lished facts. In the bolero we can
trace certain of the Spanish influences
and the sash is distinctly Oriental, but
really designers do not seem to be
much concerned as to the source from
which these suggestions are taken.
They mainly are interested in pro
ducing attractive results, and, as
attractive results are what Komen
desire, they can well afford to be
indulgent in the matter of sugges
tion. They may come from where
they will so long as the result is good,
so long as they suit modern needs, are
pretty and becoming.
Without doubt there is a certain
fascination to be found in what we
know as the outdoor or sport* costume,
but the afternoon gowns this season
are so charming that they are .cloro
rivals. The one that is shown here
gives especially good lines and can
aoni-npriatelv h rnoied in a great
Only the Modified Barrel Skirt*
are Likely to Succeed.
We hear a great deal of talk about
the barrel skirt, but very few real
barrel skirts have been seen at all.
By some strange perversion of terms,
a great many of the fashion writers
and designers both are talking of the
skirt that is draped over the hips as
the barrel skirt. Really that wonder
ful creation is distended by means
of hoops and is drawn in again at the
ankles, otherwise it does not deserve
its name. It is not a pretty line, it is
not a becoming line and it is hardly
likely to succeed, on this side of the
sea least. American women are
justly proud of their figures. They
have been willing to sacrifice a good
deal to keep the ideal lines, and they
will not conceal it by any such ugly
garment as the barrel skirt.
Rare Old Laces are Revived.
Afternoon functions arc many at
this season and afternoon dress has
taken on some very interesting fea
tures. Lace is scarce, also are other
trimmings. Paris has solved the
problem by making simple gowns and
wearing with them laces that have
been lying away in the family treasure
house, fichues and collars and what
not to relieve the simplicity. At a
notable function of the week was seen
a straight chemise dress, simple as
could be, of violet panne velvet with
beautiful lace at the neck and sleeves
the only trimming. Heavy lace is
being used for waistcoats with the
bolero gowns and fancy coats. That
it is old lace only adds to its beauty
and charm and the hint may be worth
reading to women who have treasures
hidden away. Oriental embroideries
continue all their vogue. For the
waistcoats already mentioned, the
rich Chinese embroideries arc much
liked and arc exceedingly handsome.
A Season of Contrasts.
Very long blouses that really form
tunics are handsome and are generally
becoming, and are to make a feature
of the Mid-winter afternoon dress.
A most attractive one met at a hotel
tea is of soft grey velvet over a skirt
of pale blue crepc de chine, the skirt
being plaited. A grey ninon was made
much on the lines of a lengthened
middy blouse, finished around the
lower edge with stenciling in a Greek
design of red and blue and narrow
stenciling finishing the* round neck
line. It was worn over a satin foun
dation of the same shade and just the
little bit of bright color in the sten
ciling gave the only relief.
many different materials. It is 4
pretty and graceful gown and is very
handsome in the satin and crope de
chine illustrated. Cr?;-e de chir.e is to
be much worn throughout the coniin;
eat>on and it always i ul ii
Cfi&QlSt willK JlilL
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