ffOME T>KESSMAKING
DESIGNS for the FASHIONABLE CRETONNE---By MAY MANTON
TRULY cretonne has become one
of the fad 9 of the season. First,
it was introduced a little care
fully and cautiously. We saw it as
trimming upon white and we rather
liked the effect, then some parasols
in cretonne appeared and now, we
Dave cretonne skirts and cretonne
roats, cretonne used for very nearly
ill daytime occasions, for it no longer
is confined to the sports costumes and
to the garden costume, it also has
entered the realm of the afternoon
town of general wear. If the colors
ire well choaen and the design is not
too large, the effect is good, therefore,
the success of each costume de
pends upon the taste and discretion
af the owner. The material is pleasant
lor summer wear and it launders suc
:essfully, so that it has a great many
tdvantages. In the picture, there are
ihown various uses. The pretty gar
den costume up at the extreme left,
illustrates not alone cretonne, but
iteo the garden smock which may
(airly be described as one of the suc
. esses of the season. It is a very pretty
Afternoon costumes are always
Interesting. They vary, of course,
from the very simple to the very
elaborate ones, but they fill such an
important place in the wardrobe, that
they are constantly coming up for
consideration. A charming one of
white chiffon cloth is made very
•imply, but given an indescribable
touch of distinction by embroidery
of a semi-conventionalized design
on each side of the bodice. The skirt
is just a full, gathered one, with three
itraight flounces that are without
fulness, but which overlap one another
and each of which is finished with a
garment, a thoroughly comfortable
and becoming one, and, while it is
dubbed the garden smock, it is smart
for tennis, golf, the morning walk and
for all similar uses. In the picture,
it is made of white linen with cretonne
trimming, but the treatment of- the
costume could be reversed of course
and the smock made of the cretonne,
while the skirt and trimming are of
white. The second costume is a sim
ple one with shirt waist and skirt, but
the fact that the shirt waist is trimmed
with collar and cuffs of cretonne gives
it the costume effect. It is a very
simple model and one especially
adapted to the home dressmaker be
cause of that very fact and it occupies
a very important place in the ward
robe because of its extreme availability.
It is good for the morning hours, no
matter to what use they are put and it
is really perfect for tennis, golf, boat
ing and the like. The skirt is made
in what is known as sports style, with
only a seam at each side to be sewed,
while the front edges are finished with
hems and lapped one over the other to
wide hem and two tucks. The em
broidery combines white with yellow
threads and tha wide crushed girdle
is of the yellow silk. A widely different
costume, but still one designed for
afternoon wear, takes the form of an
Eton suit of navy blue faille with white
silk and with chiffon trimming. The
band on the full skirt is of the white
silk and the girdle also is of the white
silk, held by blue crystal buttons.
The jacket is a very novel one, with
under-sleeves of white silk, banded
with blue silk and with cuffs of the
faille, but there is a wide rolling collar
with a narrow band of the blue.
be buttoned together. The big pockets
serve the double purpose of con
venience and smartness. Besides
being available for cretonne, the model
is an excellent one for linen, for piqui.
for cotton gabardine, and for the
genuine awning cloth that is one of
the very latest fancies of the fashion
able world.
The afternoon gown is made with
a bolero flounced skirt and shows very
pretty, daintily colored cretonne com
bined with white cotton gabardine. It
makes a very pretty toilette and a
very dainty one, but it would of
course be quite easy to spoil the effect
by an unwise choice of colors. To be
good for such use, the cretonne must
always be dainty. The circular
flounces give a very pretty and graceful
flare and they are arranged over a
plain foundation. For the cretonne,
the edges of the flounces are left plain
as a matter of course, but the skirt is
one of the very useful sort; it can be
made really elaborate and become
adapted to taffeta and materials of
the kind, if the flounces are cut with
pointed edges and are bound either
with braid or with the material, cut
bias. The little bolero is as pretty for
silk as it is for the cretonne and the
silk could be used to produce just the
color effect shown here, for flowered
silks are very beautiful and very many
and flowered taffeta on a foundation
of plain white would make a very
handsome costume, adapted to more
formal use than this one, while giving
the same picturesque result that seems
so essential to present styles.
Every wardrobe of the present sea
son must include its sports coat. The
one that is shown here is of awning
striped taffeta and it is worn over a
skirt of pongee It is a good model
for that silk and also for the Jersey
silk that is being so much used, for
serge and for gabardine and for the
cretonne that ia no much under dis
cussion, indeed it is a good coat for
any material adapted to such use. It
is perfectly plain and simple, easy to
make, yet smart in all its lines. The
fronts are underfaced. consequently
they can be rolled back to any depth
or bottoned up closely as occasion
requires and either a sash or belt can
be used, but for the silk coat, the
sash is apt to be preferred. The skirt
that accompanies it is cut in four gores
that flare to give abundant width at
the lower edge, while they are per
fectly plain at the belt. Plain taffeta
makes a charming coat of .this sort
and the striped silks are greatly in
vogue and for really hard usage,
gabardine is one of the best liked ma
terials, while pongee must always be
counted on as being serviceable, cool
and always good in effect, either the
natural colored or blue pongee being
particularly desirable for such use.
Simplicity is the one great essential
requirement of the little girls cos
tumes designed for summer wear.
No. 8""03 makes an excellent model.
It is just a plain little slip-on dress,
buttoned into place at the shoulders.
In the picture, it is made from a very
pretty bit of cretonne and the blouse
beneath is of white lawn, but mothers
can use this design for linen, for
gingham or for the cretonne illustrated
to make a good morning dress, or, for
taffeta, fine voile or some similar ma
terial to make an afternoon frock.
The blouse can be shirred as it is here,
or smocked and smocking makes a
very important feature of fashions this
summer.
LATEST FASHION NOTES
from the FASHION CENTRES
WITH the summer season not
only opened, but really at its
height, a sports costumes are
of exceeding interest. That fur
trimmings would not succeed to any
great extent under the influence of
torrid heat, was a foregone conclusion,
and they are being reserved almost ex
clusively for exceptionally cool days
and for evenings that really mean
chill. One of the newest and hand
somest of the so-called sweaters, is
of glove silk in Navy blue, with bands,
cuffs and collar of yellow, strapped
over with blue, the straps being held
in place by tiny blue buttons. It is
an exceedingly effective combination,
eminently well suited to the links and
tennis court and it is one that is prom
ised great favor The collar is of ths
trimming material there are bands
over the shoulder seams and there is
a band down the front and the plain
yellow silk is used to finish the lower
edge of the coat and to finish the
cuffs. We are seeing some very fasci
nating sports costumes of silk too that
are delightfully summer-like and cool
in effect and altogether fascinating
and distinctive. A new one seen at a
nearby resort is made with kilted skirt
of white habutai silk, over which is
worn a sports coat of silk striped with
satin that also is white, but in pretty
■tripes and with a dash of brilliant
color provided by the collar and sash
of royal purple. The hat, to be worn
therewith, is of Panama with a dimple
scarf of the purple as trimming.
Pongee is constantly growing in favor
aa a material for sports wear. A new
skirt and an interesting one, is cut
894 Design for Embroidering a Wide 899 Design for Embroidering a Blouse
Collar and Deep Cuffs. with Revers. VA \l
8500 Gathered Blouse, 34 to 42 bust. 8591 Gathered Waist, 34 to 42 bust 889 Design for a Braided Band
8666 Bolero Jackets, 34 to 43 bus»
HERE are three new blouses,
each of which shows an inter
esting treatment and finish.
Two are hand-embroidered and one
is braided with soutache. All forms
of needle work and' of braiding are
extremely fashionable for the late
summer and will be extensively used
throughout the autumn, therefore,
these suggestions are especially timely.
The blouse over at the extreme left
is worn with a very wide collar and
cuffs that suggest the Puritan idea
in shape and in cut, but which depart
from the Puritan when they are em
broidered. They are made of organdis
and organdie. hand-embroidered,
makes one of the daintiest possible
materials for accessories of the sort.
FASHIONABLE COLLARS AND FICHU IN LATEST STYLES
NO feature of fashions is more
apparent or more interesting
than the fichu in its many
variations. It malces an exceedingly
charming accessory and in one form
or another, it is becoming to almost
every figure and it is so essentially
dainty and feminine in effect, that it
must make its appeal. Here are shown
three styles. The one on the figure is
a fichu of the simplest sort, finished
•t the waist line in the front where
the ends disappear beneath the belt.
In the picture, it is made of sheer mull
with trimming of lace. No. I is draped
over the shoulders and consequently
is well adapted both to evening and
to afternoon wear. It is especially
charming and handsome made of
embroidered net or of all over lace or
tulle, but for simpler occasions, it can
be copied in mull, fine sheer batiste or
any similar material, the one essential
being that it possess a soft enough
finish to allow of graceful draping.
Ruffles of lace or of the material make
an appropriate finish. No. 3is crossed
both at the front fnd at the back and
with the ends meeting under the arms.
It can be made of white to be worn
over any gown or be made of the ma
In two wide gores that are slightly full
and joined to a deep, round yoke.
The lower half of each side seam is
left open and held together by but
tons and loops. En route to the links,
the skirt ia of walking length, but for
the game, the seams are unbuttoned,
the two gores are turned up and at
tached at the lower edge of the skirt,
ao making a short skirt, just falling far
enough below the knees to be be
coming. With it are to be worn
puttee* and breeches and sport*
women will be quick to see the prac
ticability of the idea.
Early as It is, there are some evi
dences of the coming season to be
met and as often is the case, there are
certain new features being introduced
into the summer costumes that may
fairly be taken as heralds of the
autumn. A charming costume just
completed, is, for example, of blue
and white checked taffeta. The sldrt
is cut at the bottom in a rather odd
shaping and is finished with a band of
white broadcloth with a narrower band
of blue silk as finish. There is a deep
girdle of the silk, cut bias, and which
forms deep points that are edged with
big tassels and a very fascinating loose
bolero-like coat of the plain blue,
edged round with a narrow band of
the white broadcloth. The neck edge
is finished with one of the new high
collars that i* turned over at the
back, but open at the front and this
collar also is of the cloth. Unques
tionably, it will be a little heating
on a real warm mid-summer day, but
the jacket is an extra garment and
can be dispensed with whenever need
The second blouse is made of a
fine quality cotton voile. The edges
of the ruffles, collar and cuffs are
hem-stitched and embroidered and
the effect is an exceedingly dainty
and handsome one and the blouss
really elaborate, yet the design i»
simple and requires very little labor.
The high collar that is open at ths
front is an interesting feature and th:
sleeves with their oddly shaped cuffs
are exceedingly new and smart.
Every form of the bolero is smart, and
in the very height of style.
The plaited jacket that is shown
here is very charming made of blue
pongee braided with black, but can be
terial of the gown to serve as a finish.
Thin, soft materials that drape well
are the best for the purpose and net is
ideal, marquisette is most attractive
it. It makes not alone a
I ' finish but a really elaborate trimming
■ J and with verv littia labor.
be, for with the (town is a fascinating
little bodice of soft blue cripe. For v -»
the next season, we may look for just
such effects in cloth, for checked
cloths are talked and are exploited by
the wholesale and the combination of
checked with plain is always a good
one. One of the most interesting
features of the costume mentioned,
however, is the use of cloth on silk and
it must be admitted that it makes a
good effect.
The combination of plain material
with checked - and with plaid is a
favorite one and both forms are con
stantly appearing. An exceedingly
smart costume, designed for a trip
to the Exposition and which is of
the very generally useful sort for such
need, is made of very light weight
navy gabardine, combined with plaid
taffeta. The gabardine is dark, but
not navy in color and the silk is not
aggressive in its brightness, but makes
a good contrast. The skirt is laid in
rather wide box-plaits and is cut off
a few inches below the waist line,
where the upper edge of each plait is
cut to form a deep scallop. The scal
lops are bound and lapped onto the
yoke of the plaid silk. The silk also
makes the very pretty full bodice
that is finished with a wide girdle and
with a little vestee and cuffs of the
gabardine. The collar it a rolling one.
rather high at the back but open at
the front to be cool and comfortable
and is of the plain blue with white
organdie overlapping it and altogether,
the gown is exceedingly smart and
* handsome.
copied In almost any material and it
can be worn over any blouse. As
shown here, the plain under-bodice
is finished with a neck frill, but the
real feature of the illustration is to be
found in the plaited bolero with its
pretty, flaring sleeves. For immediate
wear, the pongee is charming, taffeta
is smart made just in this way and
flowered silk is one of the newest ma
terials for wear over white gowns and
it is for such purposes that the jacket
will be most extensively employed
during August. With the coming of
September, we will see a great many
gowns made with boleros and skirts
to match and with under-bodices of
crfipe, chiffon or voile as the case may
be.
and the lovely soft sheer muslins are
very dainty and charming. Any one
of these garnitures can be adjusted
over a plain bodice to completely