THE SGRANTON TRIBUNE SATURDAY MORNING JULY 24. 1897.
13
II.
44-M-M--H-M-M-44-H-f--4-M-M- 4
, LIFE IN DREAMY HAWAII.
Cosmopolitan Character and Easy Morals of the
Population of the Sandwich Islands.
kltltiUMH
.4444. H
Honolulu Letter, Globe-Democrat.
The Hawaiian, or Sandwich Islands,
are 21 degrees, north of the equator, 2100
miles southwest from San Francisco
and 3400 miles northeast from Austra
lia. When Robert Louis Stevenson was
living In Honolulu, in the Hawaiian
Islands, he wrote to a London friend
how to come where the author was
abiding. He wrote:
"You go across the United States to
San( Francisco: there you go aboard a
steamer, then take the first turn to the
left."
There are eight Islands In the Ha
waiian croup, of which Oahu, Hawaii,
Maul and Melokal are the principal
ones. Hawaii Is by far the largest Is
land, and has over 4200 square miles.
Molokal Is occupied by a colony of
lepers, and Faul Is one-half lava beds
and extinct volcanoes. Oahu Is the
chief Island of all. It has two-thirds
the 'population of the group, and Hon
olulu, the metropolis and capital of the
nation. Is situate there. There are, by
the census of 1896, 119,000 people In the
Hawaiian Islands. Of these 36,000 are
the natives (Kanakas, or Hawallans),
31,000 are Chinese, 14,000 are Japanese,
3400 are Portucuese, 3150 are Ameri
cans, 2200 are English and Scotch, 1800
are Spanish, and the remainder are
French, Dutch, Australians, Chilians,
Peruvians and representatives of all
nations.
HONOLULU HARBOR.
The entrance to the harbor of Hono
lulu Is one of the most charming that
may, come Into one's travels, wherever
he may go on this earth. The water
Is a peculiar deep blue, the breezes
blow soft as a caress to one's cheeks,
and the air Is delicious with the pun
gency of tropical verdure. The great
crescent bay Is fringed by rolling hills
that rise one above another, and are
green-thatched by thousands of pic
turesque cocoanut trees, waving palms
and banana trees. Broken, lazy clouds
as white as cotton hang above the
wooded town, and are set oft by the
mighty black wall of torn and serrated
lava mountains that rear themselves
as a background to all. Surely the dense
deep blue of far-famed Copra Bay can
not be quite so beautiful as this.
The arrangement of the streets In
Honolulu reminds many Americans of
those in Boston or the older part of
New York. All the streets are narro.
and well kept, but, with a few excep
tions," they meander here and there at
will. A dozen thoroughfares are crescent-shaped,
and twist and turn when
one least expects It. All the streets are
smooth and hard, under a dressing of
thousands of wagon loads of shells,
pounded down and crushed by immense
steam rollers brought from San Fran
cisco. Narrow gauge tracks for horse
cars traverse the main thoroughfares,
but the nickel travel Is mainly Kana
kas and Chinese. Honolulu's white cit
izens drive their own vehicles, and for
the use of those who have neither
horse nor carriage there Is a legion of
one-horse hacks. As for the more pros
perous natives, some of them own car
riages and others move about on horse
back, the women riding astride and
managing spirited animals with grace
and ease.
! HANDSOME DOORYARDS.
There can hardly be more attractive
dooryards the world over th'an these In
Honolulu. They are all ample, and In
pome cases cover bIx acres. The poor
est laborer In Hawaii must have a pro
fusion of palms, roses and a dozen
varieties of trailing, flowering vines
above his cheap whitewashed house or
hut of palm branches. Geraniums grow
20 feet high, like enormous bushes, and
heliotrope grows In stalks as high as
one's head, and Is cut awav with a
hatchet when it sets too luxuriant.
Mignonette grows in clumps a yard
high along the streets. Surrounded as
the city homes are by the trees of the
London Letter In the Sun.
"Do not lmaslne," said the London
householder, "that the troubles of the
head of a family In this town are over
When he has signed the lease of a house
and moved In and arranged for the
prompt payment of the rent. Those
things are merely preliminary to the
trial of housekeeping. I suppose you
don't know anything about housekeep
ing in London?"
"It Is much the same as housekeep
ing in any other large city, I fancy,"
the Jubilee visitor replied. He had been
over long enough from America to have
a number of English expressions nt his
tongue's end, and "I fancy" was one of
them. "Civilized people In the same
Ophere In life live much alike all over
the world, don't they?"
"Really!" said the householder. That
word is a great, soft cushlqn for an
Englishman to fall back upon in time
of need. It Is more serviceable In the
long run than "Just fawncy!" being
capable of expressing more meanings
and emotions. If he wishes to be sar
castic, enthusiastic, to express doubt,
surprise, contempt, admiration, or al
rnost any other feeling, "Really!" is
wnat he fans back upon In nine cases
out of ten.
"Really!" said the householder, giv
ing the word the Inflection that means
sarcasm. "You think so, do you? I
believe that is quite a common notion.
Indeed, I used to Incline slightly toward
that belief myself. But It is all a fall
acy. People must and do live accord
ing to their circumstances, wherever
they are."
"But look nt "
"Walt, a moment," the householder
Interrupted. "I know what you were
going to say, and I will admit the truth
of It at once and save you the trouble
of sayng It. It was the people of great
wealth whom you had In mind the no
bility and aristocracy, as we call them;
the millionaires and swells, as you call
them In America, People with money
to .burn; that Is your expressive New
York phrase (or lti I believe."
"Yes, I was thinking principally of
the very ,yeal(by people," the Jubilee
visitor adhiltUfl.
"arartted,. tbn. -as to the'ni,." the
householder jSugTiea.. J'THey live vey
mucqSllKe 411 over the world, because
thelr'opportunltles are bo limited, poor
f ellpjvs., ,Qf course they do not bother
ti0me)ya, yrlth the petty cares of
htfii8fc.kepplng, end they would be great
&P'A KisH?y ala5 but wne" K comes to
amusing themselves they have to fol
ItJead like fi flock of sheep. You
TME
M 1 HH--M--H--H--H--fj;
I
- H"t"Hr - H"H" t H H H
tropics, they give Honolulu the ap
pearance of a land of country vlllns.
Even the Chinese and Japanese have
dwellings and environments that ap
peal to the artistic taste. And why
not? Land Is cheap; airy, graceful, pa-goda-llke
structures suit the climate
and do not rob the purse, while na
ture's landscape gardening can not be
surpassed. A tiny palm Is thrust into
the ground, and rain and sunshine do
the rest BqCorOjOno is tired of wait
ing, a slender, smooth trunk springs to
a goodly height, and bears a head
dress of plumes and a necklace of co
coanuts. Since the republic was formed In Ha
waii the business part of Honolulu has
grown fast. A number of commercial
blocks worth $70,000 and $SO,000 h'ave
been elected. Most of them are but
two stories high, for no one In this
land of rest and siestas Is going to bo
Induced to climb stairs, besides, as we
have said before, land Is cheap. The
street scenes always Interest visitors
here. White duck suits and Panama
hats, the latter ribboned with delicate
shades of silk, and muslin dresses
with wide-brimmed leghorn hats,
are common among the upper classes,
and given an equatorial glamour to the
passing show. The prevalent Kanaka
male Is picturesque In a straw hat
bound with flowers or peacock feath
ers, a negligee suit with lloral circlets
hung about the shoulders, his feet un
shod and his nttltude supremely rest
ful. The female native wears a brlght
colnred Mother Hubbard gown, a
wreath of flowers which Is called leis,
and she, too, goes barefooted. She is
always neat and never without a
wreath of flowers or vines about her
head or wnlst. No one accuses her or
prudlshness, and she Is likely to have
an unappeasable appetite for pol, raw
fish and tho hula dance. Quite often
she eats so much pol and so little of
anything else that she becomes af
flicted with Incurable sores and dies be
fore her time. Death, In truth, has
held high co-rnlval In these Islands
since Captain Cook's men landed. The
Kanaka had enough of his own way of
dying, but Christendom gave him many
more. Because of gin, licentiousness
and the kahuna doctors, his race is
fast passing eff the stage.
COSMOPOLITAN.
Then there are on the streets people
from every oriental nation, Japanese
merchants and policemen, Chinese
laborers, peddlers and horsemen;
Siamese fishermen, planters from the
Phllllpplno Islands, British and Ameri
can men-of-war's-men, and tourists
from every civilized country. There are
hundreds whose nativity It Is hard to
trace. Not Infrequently intermarriage
occurs between Chinese and Kanakas,
Japanase and Portuguese, Americans
and half-caste native women, and the
issue Is a sort of composite which, it
must be confessed, is often an Improve
ment on the mated types.
It isnot the class that determines
one's standing In this cosmopolitan
Hawaii, but his diet. The aristocratic
may dine on oysters from Chesapeake
Bay, on mushrooms from the South of
France and sip Mumm's extra dry; the
British have their roasts of beef every
day, notwithstanding the warm tem
perature; the Chinese confine their diet
to rice and the Portuguese have all
manner of dishes reeking with garlic
and chills. For the Kanaka there Is
abundant' pol, an edible that might pass
for bill poster's paste five days old;
dried and smoked squid, cooked sea
weed, raw mullet, pol, dog roasted
In tl leaves and a combustible drink
made from the fermentation of a root
after it has been chewed by native wo
men, comprise the real delicacies of the
Hawaiian cuisine. For the Japanese
and their cousins of the flowery king
dom tho Island supplies rice and shark's
fins. Tons of home products for the
Oriental table arrive on every 6teamer
see there are so few things for them to
do. Just sum them up: A steam yacht,
of course; a private railway train, per
haps; shooting, horse racing, cards, the
sea, the mountains, and a brief stay In
town.
VERY DIFFERENT.
lFtllt Mi nro n frrtn in Vft Vimlrofr
numerically," he continued. "It Is we
people with no money to burn who form
the bulk of mankind. And you will
And that our customs are vastly differ
ent In different countries if you inves
tigate. We have not a host of menials
to order about as the whim strikes us,
like the 'nobs,' nnd we drift naturally
into living In the way that Is easiest
and most economical. Now our house
keeping In London Is very different
from yours In America, for example,
and much harder."
"Ilarder!" the jubilee visitor repeat
ed In astonishment. "With your Eng
lish servants, housekeeping harder here
than In New York?"
"Walt a moment!" the Englishman
said again. "You are running off the
track. I have not sold a word about
New York. It was America In general
that I mentioned, I think. You have
such a mixture of nationalities In New
York that It would be hard to say
what Is a 'common custom.' And as to
our excellent English servants. It is
easy to see that your knowledge of
them Is derived from English novels.
The Duchess rlnas and Tomllnson ap
pears In black coat and., white gloves,
and milady gives her orders and Tom
llnson bows himself out. It reads very
nicely, but you don't see many Tomlln
sons In middle-class houses. Our ser
vants give us as much trouble here as
yours In America.
"However, It Is not the servants that
make housekeeping In London much
more difficult than Jt lsin.New York,
We still adhere, Jo the.JBQQd old belief
that the servants, are. In. the house for
our convenience,, not we for theirs; and
they must conform to our customs or
go. There are a dozen things that com
bine to make housekeeping harder here
than It Is In New York In America, I
mean; and chief among them Is the
climate. Climate Is the great factor In
housckecplngjn aH-Cnntxtei
"The cllmatel" t.l)e JujiJleelnltor ex
claimed; "why. you .have no. .climate,
here nothing that we would call a cli
mate, you know. Look at the climate
difficulties that we have to contend
with, at hornet Everything frozen solid
in winter, everything melted down In
summer! You have no such difficulties
here." '
DISHDYIW
from Yokohama, and Hong Kong. From
nil this provender, native and foreign,
domestlo and Imported, the civilized
kitchens of the city are able to make
a discriminating chotco which gives
the bills of fare at some Honolulu en
tertainments a peculiar piquancy.
COLOR LINE.
The color line divides society In Hon
olulu. The Americans are on the top
wave of society. Tho best class of white
people are as refined, polished nnd ac
complished as those of any other cap
ital In the world, and their hospitality
Is superb. In this society Is a large
admixture of tho New England relig
ious sentiment, sprung from the mis
sionary families which came hero be
tween 1825 and 1850. It supports the
churches and Is back of every religious
and moral movement. Many of the half-
caste families are thoroughly educated
and are familiar with European cap
itals nnd languages. They live In lux
urious homes, filled with the products
of American, English and French hand
icraft and art. At this time many of
them are living upon allowances, their
thriftless mode of life, now represent
ed In mortgaged estates, having made
It necessary to put their affairs In the
hands of trustees. In the winter season,
when hundreds of American, English
and French tourists come here, there
may be weeks of picnics among the
banana and cocoanut trees, evening
dancing at the hotel, dinners and re
ceptions at the great roomy residences
of the English and Americans, who
came here a generation ago, married
a Kanaka girl, inherited from her a
great amount of land and got rich In
growing sugar and rice for the United
States.
LIBERAL MORALS.
Social restrictions arc lax among all
but the Americans and English In Ha
waii. Ex-United States Minister Sal
mond said recently that It was lucky
for old St. Anthony In his hours of
temptation, that his visitors were not
Hawallans. The native Kanaka wo
men are models of cleanliness. They
have clear, dark complexions, graceful
necks and arms, black sensuous eyes,
petite figures, plump, round hands,
vhlte. sound teeth and red lips. They
are the personification of good nature,
and they love to be graceful and pleas
ing. They can not le said to have the
severest Ideas of morality, and the mis
sionaries have found that characteris
tic the most formidable stumbling
block In seeking their conversion. The
young Kanaka women are at their best
on n feast day, when they are gor
geously decked with flowers and gar
lands of leaves, and when an orchestra
begins to play, their black eyes melt
and sparkle, and their feet and arms
move In sympathy with the music. No
less an authority than the Duke of
Suthetland, who spent a month in Ha
waii, in his Journey about the world,
said the young Kanaka women were
the most charming of any dark-skinned
race in the world. Is It any wonder
then manv a man from America or
Europe vh'o has been buffeted by the
hardships of the world, has found the
cheer and Joyousness of feminine ac
qinlntanco in Hawaii so irresistible
that he has sunk Into languor and
lethargy there, and never again left
the Islands? Men and women do pret
ty much as they like in Hawaii, pro
viding they keep the laws and never
Interfere with the neighbors. The very
balmlness of the air, the profusion of
flowers, and the general ease and care
lessness of the Islands beget a freer
mode of living among the people than
the people In the colder zones know.
BATHING RESORT.
Tho Coney Island of Honolulu Is Wal
klkl. It Is about four miles from the
city, and is on a curved shore, upon
which the great blue ocean rolls a lazy
surf all the year round. Mammoth
palms, giant cocoanut trees and. ferns,
covering over 100 square feet each, rim
the shore of the bay. The water is the
bluest blue, and is always warm and
agreeable. Every one, except the Chi
nese, goes to Watklkl at least once a
week for a s lm. The natives go there
several times a week, some every day.
They love to bathe and their feats of
swimming are famous everywhere.
Many a planter has complained of hav
ing had all h'ls Kanaka help desert him
In the midst of a harvest of sugar cane,
rice or coffee, to go for a few hours'
swim at Wnikikl. When Robert Louis
Stevenson and family lived In Hono
lulu In 1888, they spent months at Wal-
fv
H
THE CLIMATE.
"Precisely," the householder admit
ted; "and It Is Just the absence of
those great variations of temperature
that makes housekeeping In London
harder than it is in most large cities.
You know In New York that your win
ter weather will be very severe, so
you prepare for It by putting furnaces
or steam pipes in your nouses. You
know that the summer will be very
hot, and you are ready for that with
your big refrigerators full of tremendr
ous cakes of Ice. Here we have no
such extremes; In winter a small grate
fire warms us; In summer we are not
driven to cooling ourselves with Ice.
Our temperature is too much of aJ
dead level. We have our lazy spots,
like all other people, as well as our
economlcaj spots; and the equable tem
perature leads us Into the hand-to-mouth
way of living, which Is the
easiest and cheapest way at the mo
ment, but the hardest and most ex
pensive In the long run."
"Hand to mouth?" the visitor ln
qulredj'ypu mean buying provisions
In smnJl .quantities?"
"I mean buying on Monday morn
ing Just what perishable food will be
needed on that day," the householder
answered, "and no more. And the same
on Tuesday and Wednesday and every
day In the week except Sunday. That
Is what we call the hand-to-mouth
method, and most middle claBS house
holds follow It. When the last meal of
the day Is over and you como In hun
gry, you may find some biscuits and
cheese in the sideboard, but you will
find little else. Monday's supply is
eaten on Monday, Tuesday's on Tues
day, and so on. There Is no such thing
as laying. In a week's or a month's
supply, as you do In America. And
It Is plain enough why this Is so with
us. It Is because we do not use ice
to keep our perishable provisions; and
we do not use Ice because we ara not
compelled to. You don't see much ice
In London, do you?
"Ice!" the American exclaimed.
"Why, I have almost forgotten what
It looks like, I have been drinking
tepid water ever since I landed here;
and not only tepid water, but stale
water. Your water arrangements in
London are the worst I ever saw.
When a water Jug Is half empty the
servant fills It up again, so In Decem
ber you still have the foundation of
last January's water In tho Jug,"
NO ICE WATER.
"You would have fresh drinking
klkl, which ths distinguished writer
pronounced the finest spot for swim
ming nnd bathing he had ever seen.
The scarcity of crime In Hawaii Is
attributed to the calming nnd lan
guorous effects of this tropical climate.
Hero nre over 100,000 pcoplo of all na
tionalities, and there ore less than 100
prisoners, and these, when not re
quired on public works, nro leased as
servants to private families. At B
o'clock In the afternoon the prison bell
rings and tho convicts hurry to their
bars. If one Is late he finds the gates
locked nnd ho cannot enter except by
going through the keeper's office,
where, unless he can make a good ex
cuse, he will lose his credit marks. No
prisoner ever thinks of running away.
MOSQUITOES.
Of course Hawaii has her characteris
tic annoyances, the same as other
lands, they are Insects. Tho mosquito's
name Is legion. In the old times there
was no mosquitoes here. In fact, the
name of them, except a variation of
the English word, can not bo found
In tho Hawaiian language. The whal
ing ships brought the pests In their
stagnant water butts. Oddly enough,
the mosquitoes are of two kinds, those
that trouble by day and those that
ravage by night The two species are
quite distinct as to size and shape as
well as In habits. People say the day
watch seeks a quiet place on the wall
after 6 o'clock In the afternoon when
the night watch turns out and swarms
down upon the human pasture. Great
spiders, like the tarantula, the famil
iar centipede and the barbed scorpion
Infest the Islands, but they are no more
poisonous than the honey bee. Perhaps
this Is due to what they eat or the
nature of their habits, but whatever
the reason Is the fact remains that they
are not even dreaded by the children,
who go among them with bare feet.
Strange as It may seem, there are no
snakes in the tropical island.
NATURAL WEALTH.
The manufacturing Interests of Ha
waii may be disposed of almost as
sweeplngly as the Irish essay told
about the snakes In Ireland. Beyond
four sugar mills there Is no manufac
turing on the Islands. There are some
11,000 acres of sugar cane plantations,
owned largely by Claus Spreckles, of
San Francisco. The richest men on the
Islands, men like Dole, Bishop, Alex
ander and Smith, are American and
English, nnd have made their fortunes
In growing sugar cane during the days
of the reciprocity treaty with the
United States. Mr. Bishop Is popularly
supposed to be worth upward of $1,000,
000, and Is the wealthiest man here.
Since President Dole went into office
the government has done all possible to
encourage coffee growing In Hawaii.
In 1893 the exports of coffee from Hono
lulu were $96,000. In 1896 they were
$270,000. Most of what is eaten in Ha
waii, comes from over the sea, some
from the East and the remainder from
the West. Canned goods, groceries, car
riages, hats, shoes, furniture, crockery,
household effects, nearly everything ex
cept coffee, taro, strawberries, poultry,
grass mats and sugar is Imported.
Even hay Is brought from California.
A growing and prime factor In the
wealth production of Honolulu, beyond
what It derives from retail merchandis
ing, politics and tilling of its tributary
soil, is the opulent tourist. He Is a
continual contributor of largess. To
make him disgorge, the hotelkeeper
lies in ambush and the hackman plies
the brigand's trade. For the tourist the
price of everything-he wants that white
men can supply soars on high. The
Chinese sell him curios and clothing
cheaply, but his Christian brother
fleeces him until he has no wool.
Most strangers who visit the Islands
are given a chance to see the surviving
forms of primitive life In the South
Seas. The hula dance is one of these,
and It Is the most complete display of
barbarism which this quarter of the
world affords The motive of the dance
Is grossly sensual. A dozen young wo
men, nil partially nude, perform th'e
dance just as they learned It from their
ancestors. Sometimes It Is performed
to the music of an orchestra, but the
primitive accompaniment Is the thump
ing of calabashes and a song.
GREAT EATERS.
The Hawallans are extraordinary
eaters. Their luau, a monthly feast, Is
eagerly anticipated days, ahead, as
children reckon Christmas. It is a
r
water In your sleeping room every day
If you managed properly," the house
holder replied, with a knowing smile.
"No Londoner leaves his room In the
morning without emptying his water
Jug; then the maid fills It up afresh.
If you leave It half full sho will simply
fill It up and leave you some of the old
stock. Good, fresh water from the
pipes Is far more wholesome than Ice
water. Nothing Is more hurtful than
Ice water."
"Yes, I know," the American Inter
rupted. "I have absorbed a good many
of your curious London notions. Ice
water Is very hurtful, so you drink nice
stale tepid water, which Is more whole
some. And you are all very careful of
your livers. I never saw such a livery
country In my life. Every Englishman
either thinks his liver Is out of order
or takes great precautions to keep It
straight. A man can't have toothache
here or rheumatism or a sprained ankle
but vou tell him his liver Is out of
gear, and advise him to take pills.
Thank goodness we don't have to
bother about our livers In America
they take care of themselves. Is It your
extremely bad cooking here or the ad
ulterated beer you drink that makes
you all so livery?"
"Give It to us!" tho householder
laughed. "I like to hear you tell us
such wholesome truths. We are not a
bad sort of people In most ways, If you
don't rub the fur backward; but nobody
can deny that our cooking Is execrable
and our beer bad. And we run very
much to liver. Still, It was our house
keeping I was telling you about. On
account of the absence of Ice, as I have
explained, we buy our perishable pro
visions day by day. Now ns to the
manner of buying them. Have you
seen any one going to market since you
have been here to a real market, I
mean, such as vou have In New York
and other American cities?"
"How could any orie go?" the Ameri
can asked, "when there are no mar
kets here to so to?"
"Precisely," sold the householder.
"This Is the only large city In the world,
I suppose, without retail markets. We
have them In the provincial towns, hut
not In London. Of course wo have
plenty of markets here, and some very
celebrated ones, but they nre all whole,
sale places, and housekeepers do not
go to them. The only one they ever go
to Is Covent Garden Market, for fruits,
flowers, or vegetables, and they lose
time and money when they go there,
for Covent Garden prices are higher
than prices In the shops. You see th
Lv )) r
grand spread, and the person who can
not devour then several pounds of food
Is the subject of solicitous Interest
among his associates. The Hawallans
never sit at tables or In chairs, and
this feast is servnd on mammoth palm
branches spread on the floor of a house
or more often on the hard earth In a
grove. All who partake of It sit Turk
ish fashion on the grass mat, where tho
native delicacies are served. Pol In
wooden bowls Into which tho feeders
dip their fingers when they want a
mouthful has tho place of honor. Pol
In made from a tuber made from taro
root. It grows nowhere outside of Hn
wall. Another delicacy Is raw fish. It
takes strong nerves to sit nnd see a
native woman reach Into an aquarium,
pull out a writhing mullet and bite off
Its head. Yet that Is what she Is apt
to do. Some of the more dainty ones,
who nro well brought up, select a live
minnow and roll It under the tongue,
flnnlly swallowing It as we do nn oys
ter. Sometimes thero Is roast dog,
with which Inquisitive tourists nro
served under the name of young suck
ing pig. Those who had boon deceived
In this wise nay that unidentified dog
is a luxury only second to pheasant
nnd soft-shell crab. Among the en
trees the live squid has an honored
place. It Is sliced, peppered and spiced,
and hxnded about on tl leaves to the
guests. Then thero aic all manner of
berries. Some are as hot as cayenne,
pepper, and how any ono can ever
chew them by the dozen Is a mystery
to tho pale faces. Raw shrimps, salted
seaweed, a batter of sweet squash and
the Inevitable gin for those whom the
feast has left' unsatisfied, are on the
luau list of creature comforts.
FISHING.
Old ,Jzank Walton should have come
to Hatfttatl before ho wrote of the de
lights' of angling. Here he would have
found the most devoted race of fisher
men that lives. Every Hawaiian, from
tho little -chubby brown-faced boy of 6
years old to the white-haired, decrepit
old man, goes fishing. Half the love
matches among the young men and
women are made while they fish oit the
shoro or from the cumbersome log ca
noes. It would be torture to keep a
Hawaiian away from the shore, when
he knew that schools of edible fish" were
feeding there. Ho strips himself of
clothing down to the simple clout, and
pushes oit In a long, narrow canoe
with outriggers Into tho still water be
hind the coral wall, guiding his frail
craft with paddles. He feels his way
to some rarrow break in the jagged
cordon of reefs, and waits until the
last and higher comber has wasted It
self in the shallows. In the nick of
time he shoots his cancx? through the
channel and it rides over the waves like
a water fowl.pauslng on easy swells be
yond. The depth Is about 5 fathoms,
nnd the ocean floor shows acres of
gleaming sand, with archipelagoes of
coral rock sprawling darkly on silver
plains. But the fish' are found further
out, and the native paddles along until
the frail craft rests over a depth of 100
fathoms. The canoe is a mero racing
shell, as crankv as a scooped out log,
but the angler knows Its tricks and
stands upright In It, leans over its side
or walks from stem to stern. His fish
ing gear is quickly adjusted. Ho has a
stout grass line, such as nets and the
warp of the royal feather cloak are
made of. Slender ns it looks, it will
stand a powerful strain. The cord Is
tied to a piece of iron like a sash
weight, which hangs In the deep water
like a horizontal bar, and serves as a
sinker and as a rod to hold the three
short lines to which the hooks are tied.
This device Is dropped half way to the
bottom, and the angler prepares for his
work with a long pull at his gin bottle
rnd a hearty "Here's good-by to all of
you" In his native tongue.
There Is a tug at the line. The Ka
naka hauls In quickly and brings two
3-pounders to the surface, where they
gleam like flakes of gold. He baits
anew, and In a few moments another
yellow fish, or perhaps a red snapper
nnd a banded sea perch rewards his ln
dusty. Hour by hour ho casts his line,
and he Is bound to fish until Ms gin
gives out.
SCENIC BEAUTIES.
The visitor at Honolulu finds many
places of Interest outside of the city.
There Is the Iao Valley, called the Yose
mlte of Hawaii, where stupendous cliffs
of basalt rear themselves 13,000 feet
high, and about their feet rush foaming
rivers. Then there are the wonderful
shopkeepers buy from the market, and,
as they are regular customers, tho
marketmen cannot afford to hurt the
shops' trade by underselling them.
NO RETAIL MARKETS.
"No there are only two kinds of
places here for the housekeeper to buy
her food the stores or the shops. Per
haps you do not understand the dis
tinction we make between stores and
shops. A big concern where you can
buy everything meat, vegetables,
fruit, silks, laces, bonnets, clothes, bi
cycles, cigars, crockery, like your de
partment stores In America we call a
store. The small place that sells only
meat or vegetables or stationery or
shoes Is a shop. In the absence of re
tall markets all provisions must be
bought either from a store or a shop.
In the army and navy stores, and the
civil service stores, and such places as
Shoolbred's, we can buy anything we
need under one roof. But for tho army
and navy and civil service stores ono
must be a member, and have a ticket.
And most people live so far away from
them that a dally visit Is next to Impos
sible. That is one of the disadvan
tages of such a largo city. So most of
us are driven to the shops. Have you
learned the names of the various klnjls
of shops?
"Oh, I have learned a few dozen out
landish names," tllj American repllid.
"Cheesemonger, for Instance; he's the
fellow who sells cheese, butter, eggs,
and so on. And greengrocer; he sells
vegetables. And Italian warehouse
man; he keeps nothing Italian barring
a few olives, but sells sugar, coffee, tea.
Jams, Jellies, and canned goods."
"Tinned, my dear fellow," the house
holder Interrupted. "Never say 'can
ned' in London; they are always
'tinned' goods."
"And fishmonger," the American con
tinued. "He sells fth, of course. And
pork butcher; ho sells only pork. Why
tho other butchers shouldn't sell pork
as well as beef and mutton Is more
than tho American mind can grasp.
Then you have the corn factor, who
sells dried grains and beans and peas.
Why most of .theso things should not
bo united in one respectable grocery
store I do not understand."
"No matter," said the householder;
"It Is tho fact we want, nnd I see you
understand tho fact. No doubt you
have discovered that these shops aro
usually some distance apart. When
my wife goes out In. tho morning to do
her marketing she must vUit one shop
after another, spending a little time In
volcanoes nnd acres and acres of hard
ened black lava, Tho sugar, rlco and
coffee plantations are unlike anything
seen on the continent, and nre pictur
esque In their setting of majestic moun
tains and groves of cocoanut palms all
about. The plantations aro worked by'
Chinese and Japanese, and their llttlo
homes of bamboo and leaves, their
queer little gardens of flowers nnd
strange vegetables, make the farms
seem like a bit of Asia dropped down
here.
Sir Edward Arnold has written beau
tifully of tho scene from Pnll Heights.
Everyone goes there while In Honolulu,
and Is well repaid. The view from Pall
sweeps the whole Island. The land
slopes slowly to the sea on the south
for seven miles, and Is occupied by
small farms of Chinese, Japanese and
Kanakas. The farm of each nationality
may be recognized by tho mode of Irri
gation and tho crops grown. To tho
north thero is a sharp descent of fifty
degrees, right down over 1,300 feet. The
whole island Is spread before one's gaze.
A mile away are hundreds of acres of
green cane plantations, close besldo
them nro groves of cocoanuts, farther
away are the fields of rice, and round
about are pineapple farms. That area of
dark green away off In the distance is
coffee plantations. Streams of water
like ribbons of sliver twist here and
there. In tho distance Is the blue ocean
as smooth as a mill pond as far as tho
eye can reach.
WESLEY MANUSCRIPTS FOUND.
Thoy Throw Now Light on tho Iicgin
ning of tho Methodist Church.
Widespread Interest has been nrous
ed recently In religious circles on both
sides of the Atlantic over the discovery
of certain valuable letters and docu
ments relating to the Wesley family,
the founders of Methodism. These pa
pers throw considerable now light upon
tho relations of the Wesleys to each
other and to various eminent men of
their time. Among the manuscripts
thus brought to light aro John Wes
ley's letters and Journals from 1738 to
1790, a large number of Charles Wes
ley's letters and Journals, other letters
by Charles Wesley between 1717 and
1795, written during his courtship, nnd
relating to marriage settlements, his
marriage, congratulations, etc.
There are also the Gwynne letters of
the same period, one or two original
manuscript sermons by Charles Wes
lev, one of them preached before tho
University of Oxford, April 4, 1742, on
the text, "Awake, thou that sleepest,"
nnd the other preached by him in
Georgia, March 14, 1736, the text being,
"The light of the body 13 tho eye."
There are also six copies of poems by
Charles Wesley, some national and
some religious, a number of manu
script psalms by him, and a copy of a
minuscrlnt hymn composed by him
and rung by the society at Bristol on
December 5, 1778. Then, too, there
are the articles of agreement between
Rev. John Wesley and Mrs. Vnzolllo.
who afterward became his wife, several
portions of his Journal, a number of
letters by him to Rev. Adam Clarke,
one letter from John Wesley to Wil
liam Pitt, the prime minister, five let
ters by Whltefleld, thirteen by Lady
Huntingdon, several from William Wll
berforce to Mrs. Charles Wesley, and
many others by various persons. In
addition to these there Is the original
parchment certificate of Charles Wes
ley's ordination as deacon and preach
er, bearing the- signatures of the Bishop
of Oxford and of Loudon. The last
document cnlls attention to the fact
that the Wesleys were regular mem
bers of thd Established Church In Eng
land. It may also be said, In this connec
tion, that the Wesleys had no Idea
when they started their movement of
setting up a separate denomination.
Their original and primary object was
a revival of spirituality within the
Church of England. It was only when
thty were compelled to another course
by the Inevlatble trend of events that
the organization was formed which has
since been known as the Methodist
Episcopal church.
Then nnd Now.
From the Cleveland Leader.
Tourist Ah, what ancient pllo is that
on tho cliff?
Native That is Count Von Brokc's
castle, which was renovated with tho
very modest pile of Miss Dow, of Chi
cago. each, till between our late London
breakfast and the London lunch time
she has not a minute left. The shops
deliver everything; she Is not expected
to carry home even as much ns a box
of pepper, and that leads generally to
fresh complications.
KEEPS OUT OF THE WAY.
"How so? I can show you in a mo
ment. You know the lady of the house
In London Is not expected to have any
thing to do with the kitchen. If she
were to go down, nnd make some
dainty little dish, as an American lady
often does, tho cook would be desper
ately offended, and would very likely
give notice. After doing her market
ing the lady goes and gives the cook a
list of things for dinner, written either
on a slate or on paper, and that Is
her sole visit to the kitchen. But nn
hour before dinner the cook comes up
in alarm to say that this thing hasn't
arrived, that thing is missing, and the
other is damaged. Then the maid
must hurry out to the shops and stir
them up, and we may get the things In
time or wo may not. It Is one of the
disadvantages of living from hand to
mouth.
"Sometimes the man of the house Is
called upon to do the marketing. I
have had my share of such work, nnd
since my American experiences I find
It iirltating, particularly at the green
grocers' shops. After seeing your won
derful plenty of all such things, and
the way you buy them almost by
wholesale even for a small family, It
is not pleasant to go Into a shop and
buy five pounds of white potatoes, two
pounds of fresh tomatoes, a pound of
strawberries, a pound or two of onions,
a pound of cherries but that is the
way we have to do It. Nearly all vege
tables are retailed here by the pound,
and eggs are sold at so many for a
shilling
"You know,, I suppose, that we have
three kinds of eggs here eggs, fresh
eggs, and new-laid eggs. Eggs, simply
eggs, come from all over the world
from America, France, Spain, the
Channel Islands, Portugal, Switzer
land, even Norway and Sweden. You
pay your money and take your chance.
Fresh eggs nre one degree better. They
are supposed to be a British product,
but the supposition Is not always cor
rect. New-laid eggs are by far the
best, and decidedly the most expen
sive, as we get only from six to eight
of them for a shilling. They come
fresh from farms near London.and can
generally bo depended upon. Of the
BM
tHUIIIIIIl'1'11'''1'1'1
TrTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
STATUS OF
THE NEGRO.
Education o! TwcnljMlvo Years "
t Beginning to Hove Its Effect. ::
ItlHIIItlllimH
From the Arena.
Tho white people of this oountry ara
wofully Ignorant of the true Intellec
tual status of tho negro. The Southern
people boast that they are thoroughly
acquainted with the negro, but they,
aro greatly mistaken. Their knowl
edge in this direction does not extend
beyond tho ignorant negroes In their
employ. They know absolutely noth
ing of tho educated negroes of this
country, with whom they do not como
In contact. Veryfow Southern white
people know that "we have such Schol
arly men ns Greener, Crummell,
Langston, Blyden, T. McCants Stew
art, Bishops Tnnner and Lee, Bow
ens, Coppln, Reeves, F. J. Grlmke, and
Crogman, who do not suffer by com
parison with tho foremost scholars
of tho nation; that we have thousands
of young men who graduated from
first-class colleges; that we have not a
few men who graduated from the same
colleges from which tho greatest men
of the nation graduated; that wo have
women whose literary and musical at
tainments are equal to those possessed
by the most cultured white women of
this oountry; that we have over a hun
dred authors whoso writings could not
be differentiated from those of whlto
authors by the most critical minds;
that we have three hundred editors
who compare favorably with their
white peers in Journalism.
Nor do the Southern whites put
themselves to much trouble to gain
Information concerning the Intellectual
statue of the negro. They will not
visit our schools nnd other places
where they could get some Idea of tho
Intellectuality of the negro. There aro
forty-four schools In this city (Jack
sonville, Fla.,) for the higher training
of the negros, and I venture tho as
sertion that there are not a half dozen
Southern white people in Jacksonville
who have ever visited, these schools.
There Is Atlanta, Ga., with her Atlanta
and Clarke Universities, her Morris
Brown and her Spellman seminaries,
and her Gammon school of Theology;
and thero Is Nashville, Tenn., with her
Flsk, Roger Williams and Central
Tennessee universities, with her hun
dreds of brainy students; and yet, ex
cepting the few white men who have
visited these schools to see whether
tho professors' children attend them,
not a dozen white persons In the two
plocs have visited them. Nor will theso
popjp read negro literature, from which
they could get an Idea of what the ne
gro is Intellectually.
A FEMALE JEKYLL-IIYDE.
This English Girl Possesses a Marked
Dunl Personality.
Dr. Wilson recently exhibited to tho
London Clinical society a girl of 14,
who possesses a dual personality. In
tho natural state she is a good, honest
girl, but In the abnormal condition
talks like a baby, Indulges In theft
and draws good pictures, though when
in her natural condition she cannot
draw a square. She was normal up to
two years ago, when she had an at
tack of la grippe, accompanied by de
lusions and hallucinations, and her
recovery was attended by a mental
change in which she gave fresh names
to every one, calling father Tom, her
mother Mary Ann, one brother Jim
and another Doctor Sam. She has
excited tho keen interest of the faculty
and Is considered the most remarkable
case of dual consciousness recorded
In medical annals. Whenever her ab
normal st&to was about to assert itself
she cried out: "It Is coming! push
ed aside with her feet whatever was
amusing her, shook, quivered, turned
a somersault and exclaimed, "Hallo!"
as though she had Just arrived, and
when restored to her normal condition
resumes the occupation In which sho
was engaged at the time of her selz
Mre. Imported eggs, wo usually get front
twelve to fifteen for a shilling.
"Prices? Well, our London prices
for most food products are at tho very
least 25 per cent, higher than you pay
in New York and for inferior food, as
I regard it. Much of our beef comes
from America, and so should be as
good as yours, but our butchers do not
understand cutting It so well. We havo
no such thing as a porterhouse steak,
you know. What we call the rump
steak Is supposed to correspond with
tho porterhouse, but there Is a vast
difference. The rump steak has no bono
In it, and It Is not far removed from
what you call a round steak In Amer
ict. For all tho good cuts .of beef we
pay from 28 to 30 cents a pound In your
money.
"You can judge most prices by the
price of beef, Invariably, For good salt
pork we pay 22 cents a pound, and the
same for fresh pork. Butter Is 2S and
30 cents a pound. For new potatoes we
pay 4 cents a pound; coffee, 40 cents;
mutton, 25 cents; cream, $1 a quart, re
duced to your currency. Good aspara
gus Is rarely less than 75 cents a bunch,
and often much more. You know our
English asparagus Is of no account
whatever miserable little spindling
stuff. All the good asparagus Is Im
ported. Flour? I can hardly tell you
the price of flour. Of course, most of
our flour Is American. Over there you
quote the price by the barrel, but hero
we'd as soon think of buying a box of
tea as a barrel of flour. We buy a
small bagful at a time tn or twelve
pounds.
"The only approach we have here to
your comfortable American practice of
the lady of the house going to market
in tho morning accompanied by her
maid with a big basket is In tho French
colony. The French women bring that
habit with them. These drawbacks
that I have mentioned are only a few
of the trials of housekeeping In Lon
don. Our late hours make things a
little worse than they would otherwise
be. And it Is not from choice that we
are so late, but on account of our lati
tude. You see, at this season It Is not
fairly dark here before half-past nine;
and no matter how early we dined we
would hardly care to retire until a few
hours after dark.
"I think I must send tho maid out to
the pork butcher's for thruppenco
worth of Ice. You see, I have contract
ed some of your bad American habits.
Ice water Is bad for the stomach and
deadly for tho liver, but It la very con
soling In this hot weather,"
LMDM0
N-4-L.-X-.