THIS SCRANTON TRIBUNE- SATURDAY MORNING, MAY IS, 1807.
11
Diuresis of Women and fbe
YANKEE SEWING MACHINES.
They Are Admittedly the
Million Hade
Now York, May ".America, bays tho
3un, Is the sewlntr mnchlna centre of
Ithe world, ana New York Ih the centra
jf tlio tewing machine Inilustry of
Vmerlcn. In this city nearly ntl tho
front factories producing th'eso mach
ines tiro directed nnd controlled, and
fully 90 per cent, of the sewlns machine
rad of the world Is nrtnaged und
handled here. The production amounts
to more than 500,000 machines annual
ly, und nearly I'W.uoo persons In on
way or another make their living out
of sowing machines, either as factory
operatives, agents, clerks, canvassers,
collectors, or In some other capacity
connected with tho making and mar
keting of machine.
Tho American sewing machine, like
the American watch and the American
reaper and mower, is tho standard of
excellence for the civilized world, and
the export trade In sewing inachlnos
penetrates to the uttermost ends of
the earth. Everywhere throughout
Christendom tho American sewing ma
chine holds tho market against all
competitors. It Is not a question of
price, but of merit, quality and repu
tation. The only country that Is mak
ing nny headway In tho struggle for
tho sewing machine trade is Germany.
There they have gone Into It seriously,
and nro turning out mnchlnts that
show a great Improvement over their
product of a few years ago.
PATIONTS.
It Is now twenty years since tho ex
piration of the lust Important patent
on a fundamental principle of tho sew
ing machine; hut the inventive genius
of the age has not been Idle nil this
time, and patents covering devices of
greater or less utility have been grant
ed In large uumtors. From Feb. 21,
1842, to Sept. 10, 1S93, there were Issued
by the United tSates 7,439 patents for
flowing machines and accessories. Many
of these patents cover several minor
features ot. tho sewing machine. So
that the aggregate of patented inven
tions Is much larger than 7,439. Among
the patents Issued during tho fifty-four
years ending with 1S95 were the follow
ing: Sewing machines making the chain
stitch 433
Sewing machines making tho lock
Btltch CU1
Sowing machines for itltchlng leather 431
Machines for sewing on buttons ".!
Machines for making buttonholes .... 44S
Feeding devices blO
Miscellaneous parts of sewlns ma
chines '.'.CO
Attachments, ruillers, hemmers, cord-
ers, etc i,wi
Cabinet cases and tables ..,, 473
Motors, foot, hand, steam, electric ... 170
. jv The earlier machines had no driving
power except the common hnnd crank.
This involved the use of the right hand,
and only tho left hand could be used
for managing and guiding the material
to be sewed. Isaac Singer conceived
the Idea of using a treadle sin. liar to
that employed on the old spinning
"wheel, and also discovered that Willi
the addition of a balance wheel on the
upper shaft for increasing the momen
tum ho could run his machine by foot
power. Soon after came tho Iron stand
with tho rocking trtadle for both- feet.
Mr. Singer missed a great chance here.
IK- did not realize the supremo valuo
of these discoveries, and so neglected
to taki- out patents. Two years later,
when his devices had become public
property, he saw th lost opportunity.
One of the latest devices for driving a
sewing machine is a revolving treadle
ivlth the blcyclo movement, hut none
f the new wrinkles have proved so
satisfactory ns the old-fashioned rock
ing treadle.
The proportion of hand to foot power
, sewing machines us?d In Europe nnd
In Asiatic countries is for greater than
In tho United States. The operation of
a hewing machine by hand power in
this country Is exceptional and Is usu
nll confined to tlio.--e in some manner
crippled or physically unable to apply
, foot power. In Burrpe and Asia much
of tho sewing machine work Is done
by peripatetic operatives who travel
from house to house and carry atom;
their own machines, and ns they find
the iron stands and wooden cabinets
an Imperlment th'ey prefer the hand
power machine that can Iks rested on a
table, bench or box.
INVOLUTIONS WROUGHT.
In no branch of manufactures has a
greater revolution been wrought by tho
, sewing machine than In boots nnd
shoes. By its aid the quality, style,
and value of footwear have bsen great
ly enhanced, while prices have stead-
" ily declined, until there Is no nation on
f earth today whose people are so well
and so cheaply shod as are the people
of tho United States. Changes In shoe
making methods and processes havo
been most radical. Formerly the fit
ting of the uppers was accomplished by
sending them out In smnll quantities
to bo sewed and Mltched by hand In
the homes of tho operatives. When
sewing machines were Introduced the
scattered home industry wus concen
trated In factories, and 3team power
r was employed for driving the ma
chines. In 1SG1 the first machine for
sewing on soles was put into successful
'operation, and a royalty of 2 cents on
each pair of shes was exacted by tho
owners of the patent. They must have
had a liberal Income from this source,
as In one day of ten hours 900 pairs
L of shoes could bo sewed on one ma
chine, and by tho aid of machines 350.
000,000 pairs of fchocs had been made
up to tho year 1&77 In the United
Btates, and probably an equal or great
er number In Europe. Tho machine
now In general use does Its work In a
manner closely resembling hand sew
ing, and is told on a royalty plan based
on tho rate of production. This ma
chine Is considered one of the marvels
of an age of mechanism. It Is said
tlmt after examining the operation of
the sowing and welting machine of to
day Thomas A. Edison declared 11 to
rank equal with the Ulanchard lathe
In Ingenuity and Importance. Certain
It Is that a shoo which can bo bought
at retail for 3 is In all respects equal
nnd In many respects superior to tho
J3 shoo of fifteen or twenty years ago.
Another effect of machinery has boon
to greatly Increase the finish and boau
ty of ready made shoes.
Buttonhole machines havo also had
a large tale on the royalty plan, and
have been very remunerative to the
owners of tho patents. During tho
early yearB of the sewing machine tho
custom tailors showed great prejudlco
against Its ube, but this prejudice has
wholly disappeared, and the machine Is
C! In central use for making tho
st Garments Tho -enormous -In
Best Jn the World Over a
Annually.
crease during the laRt ten years In the
fnctory production ot clothing has been
coincident with and largely the result
of tho Invention of special appliances
and attachments adapting tho sewing
machine to factory operations In this
performance of alt stitching processes,
Including buttonhole and 'eyelet limit
ing, attaching buttons, staying seams,
etc. From 1SS0 to 1S90 there was an In
crease of G.1C6 to lS.cr.S In tho number
of establishments In the United States
devoted to the manufacture of men's
clothing, and during the same decade
the number of establishments devoted
to women's clothing Increased from CC2
to 20,811. The last mentioned figure
Includes custom dressmaking establish
ments having a uroduct of over $ii00
m value, whereas the smaller figure
for 1SS0 does not Include the custom
dressmaking establishments.
IMPORTANT ECONOMICS.
The concentration of tho manufac
ture ot clothing Into factory operation,
alone made possible by the sowing ma
chine, has effected some Important
economics In the marketing of the
cloths, especially the cheaper fabrics,
such as Jeans, denims, shirtings, etc.
These goods are now sent directly
from tho mills to the factories where
overalls, shirts and other articles of
clothing are made, and no longer pass
through the hands of the selling agent,
tho commission man, the wholesaler,
the Jobber, and tho retailer, each of
whom formerly enjoyed his slice of
profit In the handling. The extent to
which wearing apparel of all kinds has
been chenpened in consequence ot the
use of the sewing machine could be ex
pressed only by figures running far
Into the hundreds of millions.
It Is also an Interesting fact that
while the largo manufacturing Indus
tries dependent upon tho sowing ma
chine much more thnn doubled their
output from 1SS0 to 1S90, the population
of the country only Increased one
quarter. It therefore follows that the
quantity of sewing done In the homo
has been grently reduced and the cost
to tho consumer of sewing machine
products greatly lessened.
In the census reports relating to the
principal manufacturing Industries that
use the sewing machine largely, the
llgures show that tho total value ot
their products In 1S90 had Increased
nbout 75 per cent, ns compared with the
value of their products In 1&S0; they
had about $437,000,000 Invested In ma
chinery, tools nnd Implements of all
kinds, and the total value of their prod
uct was $1,101,190,039. Tho mnnufac
tuies In which sewing machines are es
sential are awnings, tents, sails, bags,
bookbinding, boots and shoes, clothing
for men and women, corsets, flags,
banners, men's, furnishing goods,
gloves, mittens, hats, caps, pocket
books, rubber and elastic goods, shirts,
saddlery and harness, and horse cloth
ing. Tho reports of the sales of sewing
machines during 1S73-7C, the period of
the "sewing machine combination"
which was entered Into by the leading
manufacturers twenty-four yenrs ago,
show a total of 2,303,941, tho average
a year being about BTCOOO. Since 1876
there has been no available Information
other than that indicated In th census
reports. These figures indicate that the
average number of machines made an
nually during the last twenty years. In
the United States has been from 500,
000 to COO.000, and that the average first
cost per machine has been about $20.
UEI'OIti: JUAltKIACK IN m.VNCE
Formalities That .Must Bo Gone
Through llcforc tho Mayor Tics the
Knot.
From tho Pall Mall Gazette.
In the eyes of the French law mar
riage 13 entirely a civil contract. It
does not recognize a marrlnge celebrat
ed In a church or other place of wor
ship, nor will any priest or clergyman
oillclato until n certificate of the civil
union hns been presented to him. I
myself have recently undergone the
painful operation of being married in
France by this civil process, and it has
seemed to me that, instead of benevo
lently assisting to crown the happiness
of loving couples, the law places every
possible barrier to keep them apart.
The plain narrative of my own experi
ences mny be found of Interest.
My wife is a Frenchwoman, an or
phan, and 25 years of age, the only near
relation that she ha3 living being her
maternal grandmother. I myself am a
British subject of full age, resident In
France, and had wo both been British
subjects we could have dispensed with
tho formalities of French law and been
married without trouble before the
British consul. The first step I took
was to go to the Malrle, or town hall,
of tho district In which I lived, and in
terview the functionary who was In
charge of the "Bureau des marlagcs."
This ductal was an asthmatlcnl old
gentleman with a troublesome cough,
who was none too gracious In regard
to my suggestion that I wanted to get
married. He glared at me through his
glasses as though I were a criminal
upon whom ho was about to pass Judg
ment, or at tho very least an applicant
for parish relief. He condescended to
Inform mo that, although I was 29
years of uge, ho should requlro tho
consent In writing to tho marriage of
both my parents, us well as that of the
parents of my fiancee, before even tho
banns could be published. "But," I
objected, "I am a British subject and
my fiancee is an orphan, and of full
age."
"Then you will be dispensed from ob
taining the consent of your parents if
you can get your consul to give you a
certificate stating that, as a British
subject, It will not be necessary for
you, according to the laws of your
country, to obtain tho consent of vour
parents to your marriage. As for
mademoiselle, your fiancee, she being
an orphan, we shall require the certifi
cate of decease of both h'or parents
and the consent in writing . of hor
grandparents, If living."
ASTONISHED.
I began to feel astonished, and told
tho old gentleman that, with tho ex
ception ot her matornal grandmother,
all her grandparents wero dead. "In
that case," eald the old gentleman, "I
shall also requlro copies of their certifi
cates of decease, and tho consent In
writing of her maternal grandmother,
unless she Intends to bo present at the
wedding." Ho further informed mo
that It would be necessary to produce
copies of my own and my fiancee's
birth eerUacs.tea, uot only, as I sup-
peed, to prove that wc had beerf duly
born, but alio to satisfy him that wo
wero being married In our proper
names though I fall to sec what there
would bo to prevent nny one from us
ing other people's birth certificates.
Beycnd this, It appeared that certifi
cates attested by a police magistrate
would have to bo forthcoming from the
owners of our respective places ot
abode, certifying that we had resided
there for nt least six months previous
ly, and, In addition, a doctor's certifi
cate to the effect that we had bcem
duly vaccinated.
As soon ns 1 had been able to procure
the necessary documents, which took
a week or ten days, I paid a visit to
the British consulate, nnd there ascer
tained that the officials deigned to
transact business only between the
leisurely hours of 11 and 3; and, ns It
was then live minutes past 3, I was
obliged to return on the following day.
I was then Informed that I must leave
my birth certificate and the sum of 27
francs GO centimes, and cnll back In a
couple ot days. At the time specified I
called, and was handed a very formid
able document stamped with the Brit
ish royal arms, and setting forth In
Franch that as a British subject of full
age I was free to contract marriage
without the consent of my parents.
This was accompanied by a transla
tion of my birth certificate, which was
appended to tho original document I
had left. The whole of these docu
ments bore consular stamps, and were
signed by the consul. I now had to
take my documents to tho revenue of
fice, nnd there pay two francs to have
them stamped; and from there I had to
proceed to the French foreign ofllco to
get the visa to tho consul's signature,
which cost me another two francs.
For the second time I returned to the
Malrle, thinking that my troubles were
at nn end; but alas! the asthmatlcal
old gentleman waded carefully through
the mass of papers which I had In
dustriously accumulated, and found
that he could not accept them because
the consent of the maternal grand
mother wus not drawn up by a public
notary, who In France is a ministerial
olllrer. I remonstrated with the old
gentleman, and said It was monstrous
that a young woman of 25 could not
get married without the consent of her
maternal grandmother. "Monsieur,"
he replied testily, "such Is the law. I
did not make the law."
INDEED A TASK.
I began to feel that I had undertaken
a task almost beyond my strength, but
I resolved to go through with tho busi
ness even If It took me years to.tccom
pilsh.I communicated with my fiancee,
who went off to see her maternal
grandmother; but the old lady fell Into
a state of nervous excitement at the
Idea of having to execute a notarial
deed, and endeavored to persuade her
granddaughter to give up her foolish
notion of marrying an "Anglais," of
which, she said, no good could come.
After a great deal of trouble she was
persuaded to consent, and we have
finally managed to convey her to the
nearest town where a notary resided.
All this had taken several days to ac
complish, for the old lady was- over SO
and very deaf. Ridiculous as It may
appear, If the old lady refused her con
sent tho French law would have re
quired as to give three respectful
"sommatlons," or notices, at Intervals
of a month, before wo could get mar
ried. It was, therefore, with u feeling
of relief that I at last found myself
In tho train In possession of the notar
ial act by which she gave her consent
which cost twelve francs thirty-one
centimes exactly for a French notary
would consider he was dishonoring his
profession If he did not charge an odd
number of centimes.
On my return I once more hastened
to tho asthmatlcal old gentleman at the
"Bureau des Marlages," armed with
these documents;
1. My birth certificate.
2. A translation thereof.
3. Tho consular documents setting
foith my lllKirty to marry.
4. A certificate of residence.
5. The "permls de sejour," or permis
sion to resldi in France, which every
foreigner la bound to take out at the
police ollice.
C. A doctor's certificate that I had
been vaccinated.
7. One likewise of my fiancee.
8. My fiancee's birth certificate.
9. The certificate of decease of her
father.
10. Tho certificate of decease ot her
mother.
11. The certificate of decease of her
paternal grandfather.
12. The certificate of decease of her
paternal grandmother.
13. The certificate of decease of her
maternal grandfather.
14. Her maternal grandmother's con
sent to tho marriage.
15. The certificate of her residence
and mine.
16. Notarial documents setting forth
that there was a marriage contract.
17. A declaration that my fiancee was
not my slstei, aunt, mother, nor grand
mother. I tremblingly submitted the whole of
tho above-mentioned documents to the
asthmatlcal old gentleman, who, hav
ing cnrefully adjusted his spectacles,
proceeded to wade through once more
the whole mass of papers from begin
ning to end. AVhen he had finished, he
scratched his head and Bald that, "see
ing that my fiancee was an orphan,
ho was not quite sure as to whether he
ought not also to have the birth certifi
cate of the maternal grandmother;"
but, on referenco to the "Code Civil,"
he found, to my Intense relief, that this
was not necessary. He seemed some
what dlsarpolnted that there was not
same document missing; and, In n
warning voice, he mild: "Well, mon
sieur, you can publish' the banns now,
If you like, but at your own risk and
peril; for Is there Is any hitch nt tho
time of your marriage you must not
blame mo," I accepted tho tremendous
responsibility, paid ono franc twonty
llvo centimes for the necessary forms,
tilled them up, nnd handed them back
to the old gentleman.
MARRIED AT LAST.
At last tho eventful morning came,
and, contrary to the forebodings ot the
asthmatlcal old gentleman, there was
no hitch. Tho room where the mar
riage took place was beautifully paint
ed In white and gold, with a bust em
blematic of tho republic in a prominent
position. At ono end was a raised plat
form, with a table for tho mayor and a
row of gilt arm-chairs facing the table
f6r the parties about to be married and
their witnesses; then a barrier cov
ered with velvet, and, bolov' the plat
form, a, row ot seats for the friends of
the parties, and for thoso who might
care to bo present the law requiring
that the public shall havo free access
to all ceremonies such as marriages,
public competitive examinations, and
eo on. The civil marriage was a very
simple affair. "When wo had taken our
seats n man In livery opened a pair of
largo folding doors at the back of tho
table and announced, "Monsieur lo
Mnlre," whereupon all present stood
up. The mayor, a dapper gentleman
with waxed mustachlos and In evening
dress, with his badge of ofllce, consist
ing ot a red Bilk senrf ncross his chest,
then entered and bowed to tho people
present. The clerk proceeded rapMly
tocnumernteoUr nnmes.and the various
contracts and certificates of which I
have spoken, after which the mayor
read over to us that part of the Code
Civil relating to tharrlnges and the ob
ligations which the law Imposed on tho
contracting parties. This done, we
wer asked It we consented to take
as husband and wife, nnd on replying
In tho nfllrmativo the mayor said. "Au
nom do la lol Je vous unls" and that
was all. As I left the platform to make
way for another couple, after signing
the register, the mayor handed me a
book In a brown cardboard cover, en
titled "Llvret de Famlllo." In this
book are to be entered by the nearest
registrar the births and deaths as they
occur In the family, and I noticed that
the number of spaces allowed for births
was six, but I am not aware If this Is
the limit which the French law Im
poses on heads ot families. The book
also contained numerous directions for
the proper nourishment and rearing of
Infants, drawn up by tho French Acad
emy of Medicine.
TALMAGFS IDEAS
ABOUT WOMAN.
The Noted Preacher Ad
vances Several Interest
ing Opinions Concerning
the Fair Sex.
In the course of nn interview with a
woman representative of the Times
Herald Rev. Dr. T. Hewitt Talmugo
recently gave Interesting opinions of
woman's possibilities and duties. Tho
following nre culled expressions:
"Whether women will ever become
prominent as regularly ordained min
isters I cannot say, but successful they
must be, for they have more control
over those symiKithles which appeal
to tho human heart. If tho gospel Is
to bo preached successfully, It is by
appealing to the heart, not the head. I
have heard most effective preaching
from women In religious meetings, If
not exactly in tho riulplt. In prayer
meetings I always ask women to take
part, and I always find thev Intensify
the Interest of that or any other meet
ing they participate in. That Is," paid
myself have recently undergone the
the preacher, reflectively, "unless they
are women with hard voices and ama
zonlan presence."
"I don't like a manly woman, nor
nn effeminate man," said the doctor,
"but I can-hardly state my Ideal. The
Ideal woman Is not one woman wo
manhood extends over many different
realms. My Ideal wife, daughter or
mother I could describe, but a man Is
so apt to sketch his own homo for an
Ideal. My womanly companionship all
my life has been so delightful, tender,
tweet, kind and heavenly th'at I hardly
want to give any other man the Idea
of it!"
"Why is it tlrat men nro so much
more wicked than women?"
"Oh, most of us admit that women
are naturally better than men, nnd
that they are getting bett"r all the
time. But when a. woini'i starts uut
to be bad, there Is no limit. She Is ns
bad as a man and a little worse. She
goes the whole harJ road usually. That
seems characteristic. AH history
shows It. A good woman is 'very, very
good,' and a bad woman Is" and tia
doctor spread out his bunds as though
he had no words quite stronor enough.
"I think woman ought to have every
good and proper opportunity of earning
her own living and being Independent.
Wherever there is an open door, women
should be allowed to enter It. There
are none too many avenues by which a
woman may pass to fame and fortune.
I believe that girls should be trained
for a life of Independence as much as
boys are. I don't think It was intend
ed that every woman should marry.
Thus every daughter should be brought
up that she can earn her own liveli
hood if need be. The trouble la" (and
here the doctor warmed up) "that
mothers Impress their girls that an ul
timate marriage Is their destiny. Per
haps It isn't, but the daughter is led
to believe so. Hence she spends tho
beautiful days of her youth preparing
to be led to the nltar. Sometimes this
Is a fairly good Idea, If the girl Is of the
marrying sort, for I do believe that a
woman is happiest In the secluded
home circle, but If she bo not of that
kind, the Idea Is ruinous. It is the
fashion to be mnrrled, she thinks, and
she must follow the fashion. When
she arrives at a certain age, If the hand
she would desire has not been offered
to her she will take well almost any
thing! That means disaster. She of
ten makes her own life a failure and
spoils another life at the same time. It
is tho reason for so many miserable
marriages. If, on the contrary, girls
were permitted to keep their Independ
ence and develop naturally, whether In
art, music, science or philosophy It all
tho avocations of tho world were acces
sible, and splnstcrhood as honored as
wedlock then the scheme of things
muBt be bettered. I repeat that I be
lieve Independence to be as essential
to women as to men, and I do not be
lieve It wns intended that every wo
man should marry!"
"I don't think that marriage Is es
sential to develop noblest womanhood,
but I do think that when a clever wo
man marries she will find abundant
directions In which to enlarge and de
velop her talents. If sho has genius,
even more so, for genius Is a faculty
for surmounting environment and cre
ating space for Itsedf."
"I think woman's lnfluenco In poli
tics Is chiefly through her husband and
brother, father or son. Why, a woman
In politics Is almost as bad as a man!
If a woman gets to be a politician"
(hero the doctor shook his head sor
rowfully, as at some horrid sight) "sho
gets out ot that sphere which Is one of
her greatest attractions."
"Then you don't believe In suffrage?"
"I didn't say that. I have been In
regions whero women had the right ot
suffrage, and things went pretty well,
but I do not call theso women politi
cians any moro than I would call ev
ery male voter a politician. I recollect
that I was In New Zealand at election
time. Women havo tho suffrage there,
and I was very agreeably surprised at
tho order at tho polls. Perhaps I am
old-fBEhloned In preferring the more
secluded realm for women, but I con-
Horn?.
sldor tho mnn tho tougher organization,
made to battle with tho rough world,
and I like to seo the- woman protected
and sheltered ns much ns Is consistent
with rer Independence,"
A SYSTEMATIC RBST-IIOUR.
How to Enjoy Complete Relaxation
During tho Day.
There nre very few housekeepers,
says tho New York Tribune, who np
predate tho necessity for a systematic
rest-hour In the midst of tho dally
duties. Physicians tell us that there
are very few women who would not bo
benefited In health by nine hours' sleep
at night and nn hour's rest after the
midday meal. Most busy women plead
they have no time for this rest-hour,
and even borrow from the nlgJit hours
which should bo devoted to refreshing
sleep. Most women, however, make
a Bpeclal toilet for dinner. The hour
preceding the afternoon toilet Is usual
ly the most convenient hour In the
day for a nnp.
All women who can spare two hours
In tho afternoon to themselves should
cast off all household and social cares
for this period and enjoy n complete
relaxation In n bath nnd rest-hour pre
vious to dressing. It Is not absolutely
necessary that an hour be spent In
sleep, but It should bo spent In rest
ing In a recumbent position.
It Is not an easy matter for a wo
man who is not nccustomed to sleep
In the daytime to fall in a doze at will.
Sleep, however, can usually be Induced
at this time by a tepid sponge bath
perfumed with lavender water and by
resting In a recumbent position under
tho bedclothes In the regular night
dress. It does very little good to simply
loosen the clothing and Ho down In a
wrapper on the lounge.
After the habit of the daytime nap
Is once established the moment the
bath Is over and the tired women dons
her night attire sho will easl'y fall
asleep, and succh Is the control of the
mind over the body that If she look?
at a watch or clock and firmly deter
mines to awake at a certain hdur
sho is quite sure to find herself wide
awake nt that lime. The daytime nap
should always be taken in a darkened
but well-vcntllated room,, and under
sufficient bed covering. In a sleep like
this a weary housekeeper gains enough
extra strength to onable her to feel
fresh and bright In the evening, when
so many women are worn out. Whore
one must trespass upon night hours
usually allotted to sleep the daytime
nap should be prolonged.
On ordinary occasions nn hour Is suf
ficient from the time ono enters the
privacy of one's rooms to prepare for
the sponge bath and rest until one
arises refreshed from the doze to dress
for dinner.
Not little of the value of this day
time rest consists In n complete change
of all clothing worn In tho morning.
The under llannels often become dank
with perspiration In the morning hours,
nnd are unfit to wear all day and
ought to be aired. Afternoon llannels
should be used with afternoon dress.
Still another set should be used at
night and during the daytime sleep.
Thus three sets of underwear are In
use and a great part of the time are
hung up In the air to be purified. This
frequent change of the clothing worn
next to the skin Is a cleanly and com
fortable practice.
Working women should make some
sacrifice to obtain a regular rest at
midday If only for a few moments.
While they may not be able to spend
as much time as women of leisure, It
Is comparatively easy to contract the
habit of ten minutes' nap directly af
ter dinner, and this short daytime reft
will be of more value than an hour's
sleep nt night.
now to roast ui;i:i
Tcmpcrnture of the Ovcn--A Prime
Pot Roust.
AVhen beef Is to be roasted, It should
be placed In a very hct oven at first,
so that tho surface will be quickly
browned, thus making a coating by
which tho Juices of the meat will all
bo retained. Tho temperature of the
oven should thsn be lowered and the
meat cooked slowly and bo frequently
basted, unless It is In a covered pan.
The time allowed for roasting a large
piece of b.eef Is usually twelve minutes
for every pound and twelve minutes
for the pan, writes a contributor to the
New York Sun, and authority for the
following;
To prepare a piece of beef for roast
ing do not wash it, but wipe It off with
a damp cloth. Place It In a baking
pan, rub some beef drippings over the
top und dredge the top and sides with
llour. Put In the pan a couple of spoon
fuls of drippings. Water should not
be added If you wish tho roast to be a
nice brqwn, and do not add the salt
nnd pepper to the pan until after the
surface of the meat has been well
browned. Remember thnt after the
first twenty minutes roast beef requires
a moderate oven and baste the meat
frequently with Its own drippings from
the pan. If there Is danger of the
gravy growing too brown or cooking
tvway, a little boef stock may be added
to tho pan, and frequently a gill of
cooking wine Is added to the pan in
the last twenty minutes of cooking,
giving the gravy a delicious flavor.
When the roast Is sufficiently cooked
remove It to a heated platter and make
tho gravy. First turn off tho top
grease from the liquid In the pan, and
If there Is not sufllclent liquid left add
n little Btock. Lightly dredge the pan
with Hour and stir over a hot fire. Sea
son with a spoonful of some sauce and
more salt and pepper, If needed. Strain
Into a heated gravy boat and serve.
For a pot roast get a short, thick
piece of the cross rib of tho beef and
lard It with Htlo strips ot clear, fat
pork. Put the pot Iru which the meat
Is to bo cooked over tho fire, and when
It becomes hot put In tho beet and
brown It, turnlg tho meat until every
side Is browned. Add halt a dozen lit
tlo onions, two tnblespoontuls of toma
toes, a bay leaf, a little chopped pars
ley, thrco cloves, a dozen whole black
peppers, two garlto buds, and a cup of
starch. Place tho pot where tho meat
will Just steam and tho liquid simmer
for three hours, keeping the pot closely
covered. Ono hour before serving add
two carrots, sliced thin, and another
cup of stock, If It Is needed. Remove
the meat when done to a heated plat
ter and season the sauce with salt and
pepper and a teaspoonful of Worces
tershire sauce and rub it through a
courso sieve. Pour the cause around
the meat.
A New Idea Jut from Pnrls,
The bottoms of sleeves still continue
to bo trimmed, and there are multitud
inous ways to do It. One new Idea Just
from Paris shows the bottom of tho
sleeve flared out suddenly at tho wrist
to form a bell-shaped pleco that fits
over the hand to tho lowest point of tho
thumb. These aro lined Inside with the
trimming material or Bomo contrasting
a Ilk. Tho bell Is prettier cut In one
with tho sleeve, but can bo made sop
nrate and stitched on it necessary, as
In the case of a made-over gown.
s.
From tho Sun.
An old housekeeper pays that (hero
may bo many new liquids for freshen
ing nnd brightening carpets, but sho
bus yet to find anything that will do
better work than ox gall. Use one gill
to n gallon of cold soft water, stirring
the ox gall Into the wuter with a stick.
With a soft brush rub tho carpet, mak
ing a white lather. Two persons should
do this work, one following tho other
nnd washing the lather oft with dear
water. The water should be chanced
often, nnd then the carpet should be
tubbed with clean cloths until dry.
Many sprint; cleaners do not know
thnt an old carpet scrubbed with com
mon yellow soup nnd hot water and af
terward with clean cold water will be
wonderfully Improved.
Among the crosses many housewives
have to annoy them Is n bathtub of un
inviting appearance In a room that
otherwise looks fresh nnd clean after
the spring renovating. Tho tarnished
surfnee may refuse to become bright,
no matter what cleaning materials are
employed. By being your own work
man you may, at a trilling expense,
make the tub quite desirable. Procure
a small can of common pnlnt of any
light color desired, a can of ennmel
paint of tho same color, and a good
sized brush. Cut eight or ton Inch
pieces of yellow soap Into bits, and put
it oyer tho lire to dissolve In a couoh
of quarts of water. Fill the bathtub
with very hot water, and throw In a
generous handful of powdered borax
and tho dissolved soap. W.hen tho
water becomes cool enough to put the
hnnds In It, scrub the surface with a
brush, letting the water run off as the
vvoik Is done. Again partly fill tho
tub with hot water and scrub It with
the brush nnd sand soap to make sure
that til greasy particles have been re
moved. Then rinse It In clear hot wat
er r.nd thoroughly dry. Cover It with
two coatings of the common paint, let
ting cno thoroughly dry before putting
oi the second coat. Then give It sev
eral coats of the enamel nalnt. This
paint will dry more quickly thnn thi
othrr, nnd the hath will no longer be
an unsightly object. Care must be
used not to tun very hot wnter Into
the bath alone until the paint hns
hardned.
Have you ever used dried lima beftns
for that well known nnd desirable dish,
perk and bcins? They nre excellent.
These beans are also very nice baked
and served In place of potatoes. They
should be allowed to bake very slowly
and n tablcspoonful of butter should
be substituted In this dish of beans for
the, to many desirable, pork.
Hot breads and cakes should be cut
with a warm knife.
. WORTH KNOWING.
Journal of Agriculture.
A sliver polish that t Is alleged will
cl'can sliver without hand rubbing Is made
by mixing whiting with a few drops of
ammonln, then thinning It with water to
tho consistency of cream. It will keep if
tightly corked In a bottle.
If you nro tired of your white laco cur
tains, or if they do not harmonlzo with
your new cream tinted paper, make them
of a pretty ecru tint by washing, drying
and dipping In thin starch made with cof
fee Instead of clean water. Dry them as
rapidly as you can by pinning them fn a
room whero you can have tho wind blow
on them.
The w orst spot made by greasy head on
wall paper can be removed by patience,
perseverance and a hot Hat-Iron and blot
ting paper. Wipe tho Fpot llrst with a
clean dry cloth, lay whlto blotting paper
against It, then hold the hot Iron to tho
paper till tho grease Is absorbed. Try, try
s
5mMm$883&W&WMMM8
Cooking: JBxperts
"Not n pound oflard per year 3 consumed in our
kitchens, and wc conscientiously advise the public
to use almost nnv other fat." Marion Harland
and Christian 'Jerhunc Herrick,
that pure, wholesome, vocotablo food product. IJettor thrm tho best nnd
pureat bird, und la strongly endorsed by physicians for its licaltliful qualities.
Tho gcmilao Cottoleuo Ih sold ovorywhero in ono to ton pound tins, with our
trHde-murlts "OnttoUne" nnd ttrer't hrait in cotton-filnnt urea(A 0U every tin.
jnoi guuruiuccu u KUiu m uiiy uiuvr
' THE N. K. FAIRBANK COMPANY$?,W','4
CIIICAQO, ST. LOUIS,
xwssmcwMmmsi
UP TO
TYYfYTTTYYTYiii?niYTinnniTnTHTniiiiiiisi;iiii;nil
Established I860.
TUB
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M
PSANOS
At a time when, many manu
facturers and dealers are making
the most astounding statements
regardingthe merits and durability
of inferior Pianos, intending pur
chasers should not fail to make
critical examination of the above
instruments.
M
El. C. RICKEIR
General Denier in Northcust
crn Pennsylvania.
iNowTolophono
Adams Ave.,
immnnnnMMMiiMiiiiiiii
again with fresh paper till you got It out.
To prevent tho Icing of a cako from run
ning down tho fides, doublo a piece of
buttered paper nbout thrco Inches wldo
and pin It around tho enke, lotting tho
Ufiper ertRo project halt nn Inch ubovo tho
enke. In this way a enko may be frosted
evenly and thickly to tho vey edge. Do
not remove tho band until the Icing la
perfectly dry.
.Milking Perfume.
Never throw away rose leaves, for
after they may no longer glndden -tho
eye, thcro Is still perfume loft. To con
serve this sweet odor keep a covered
Jnr partly filled with almond or ollvo
oil; when clearing out the vur.es eaver
carefully tho loaves of nny sweet
scented flowers or tho heads of mign
onette and tho like; stir them Into tho
oil, and nfter It has stood for twenty
four hours strain through a bit of
cheese cloth and return to the Jar. Re
peat this process until the oil Is thor
oughly perfumed with the volatile prin
ciple of tho flowers. Whenever a bottla
of pure and exquisite perfume Is de
sired It may bo made by adding to the
scented oil equal parts of pure rectified
spirits; shake every day for a fort
night, and it 13 ready for use.
Rico Ilrcnd.
To mnke a really healthful hot
bread Is a difficult matter. Rico broad
not only satisfies the demands of hy
gienic theory, but Is very delicious to
the palate. To make It, boll one ten
cup of rice till it is perfectly tender,
shake, but never stir rice when cook
ing. While hot, add butter 'the size1 or
an egg, a pint nnd a half of milk, halt
a pint ot bolted cornmeal, two table
spoonfuls of llour, two eggs and salt
to taste. Pour In well-buttered nans,
having It not over two Inches thick,
and bake just ono hour In a moderate
oven. Eaten hot with nice sweet-but'
ter, or good syrup, It Is at Us best.
Smnrt Shrit-Wnist SIcovc.
The Fmnrtcst shirt-waist sleevo haa
the fullness lnld In plaits' at the cuff,
with rows ot stitching running tip each
plait about five Inches, a quarter of an
Inch back from the edge. Another
thing about this senson's shirt-waist
sleeves Is that the leg-o'-mutton-shapo
of two years ago Is the ono to havo
(bishop sleeves have been declared
passe by Dame Fashion), but they will
not droop at the top as formerly, tho
puff being cut at least three Inches
rhort Just directly In tho centre of tho
top to hold them up and give the de
sired effect.
Preserving Cut Flowers.
Alex McClellan of Newport, R. I.,
writes to Meehar.'s Monthly: "In-tho Do
cembor number of tho Monthly, imgo 210,
aipean'd an article on 'Preserving Cut
Flowers,' recommending tho placing ot
tho stems In cold water. Much better re
sults can bo had by using warm water, 1.
e., water of a blghor temperature than
that usually known ns lukowarm. An
other Important point In getting cut flow
ers to keep fresh Is to put the stoma Into
tho water tho instant they aro cut from
tho plant. Let any ono who uses cannas
for cut flowers try tho experiment, and
noto tho difference."
The Latest Cirdlu.
The very latest girdle Is a plain ono
two Inches wide. For some time wo
couldn't get our girdle wldo enough, and
they wero all fulled. Now to change
the fashion the order is reversed as to
both points.
Lost It.
"I noticed you nt the opera last night,
Mrs. Budd. Wasn't that a delightful
aria by Du Mond?"
"So sorry I missed that, but I was
Just giving Mrs. Upton my famous re
cipe for hard sauce." Harper's Bazar.
page itf, National Cook
wuy, juuuu uuiy vy - , . , ,--
NEW VOIIK, "? JTOIf TRSA.
DATE.
Over 2G.000 fit Use.
(jEWJINE
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Book. 5g
KatdauniEa sz
Exchnnoo Building, 115
Scrnnton, Pa.