8
THE SCR ANTON TnigUNE-8ATUBPAY MOINTNQ UECiSMttiSK SC.
189G.
THECITY OF MONTREAL.
THE WONDERS OF
THE QUEEN'S DOMAIN
The Picturesque, Historic, and Intensely
Interesting City of Montreal.
RECORD OF ITS RAPID GROWTH
ISricf Description of Its allicdra's,
lis I5riiUr, lis Public Libraries, ItH
Tlu-atem nnd It I'ulilic I'uiks,
Together with a tiliincc lit Sumo ul
Its Singular Social t omlitions.
Special ConisiKinili'in i' of The Tribune.
MMiitii al, Canada. Sept. So. A branch
of the 1'anadlan I'tuilie extends south
West to Present t en the St. Lawrence
river, where ferry ennneetinn is made
with Oxdent IpIUK, N. Y.. and rail lines
tu .New Knsdand and New York, nnj
also Lake rhnmphiiti. Krnm ottnwa
to Montreal is Il'i) miles, a four hours'
ride, and the end of the Kastern divis
ion of the Canadian i'aeitle railway.
We follow the Ottawa river alonK the
Ottawa valley on its northern Imnk
until it unites with the St. Lawrence,
toi'inlng; the eastern boundary of the
tiiiiiiKUlar island of Montreal.
The line first crosses a lonjr Iron
lirldne, uivInK a line view of Chaudiere
Full, anil, shortly after, the Callneau
river. Semi it crosses another Iron
l.t idue over the niitKiiiticeiit falls of the
l.ievre river, while tile strikini; trrottp
of pariianiiiit luillillnns on the lilith
el! IT to tin- liKht, reeedinit from nltr
pl:,'l;t, !s piite reinlndful of the Capitol
of Washington.
At ItitcUhmhain, twenty miles dis
tant. Is a branch road that runs north
ward tn phosphate, mica, and plum
batro mines, from which ureal quan
tities of these minerals are shipped.
INeiir Calumet are the celebrated Cale
donia mineral springs, u noted health
lesoi t for the provinces. Here, too. are
ext.-n:ive saw-mills, which art- also
found frequently along the river. At
I.iuliute ate luiije paper mills and
Wood-working industries. The route is
nloiuj the Ottawa liver, whleli divides
tin- province of Ontario and (Jiieliee.
The valley Is divided into loan, narrow
11 ml well-tilled French farms, mostly
devoted to dairy products. There is an
nlr of thrift and comfort amonif these
old French settlements which Is es
pecially noticeable. Streams pour down
from the Laureiitfan Hills and several
picturesque villages are passed in quick
sueiislon as we near the metropolis,
with hills and distant nioiouains on the
one hand and the broad and beautiful
Ottawa river on the other, on which
numerous steamers, lumber bat tles, and
rails of lumber are constantly Keen.
INTO JIONTIiKAL.
At Ste Jtose, seventeen miles from
Montreal, is a churtnins French villain-
and a favorite summer resort. At
Saull nil Kccollets are rapids of a
brunch of tin- Ottawa river, ten ihIUm
above Montreal. Five miles outside of
the city is Montreal Junction, a resi
dential suburb, with many handsome
private homes. Here trains radiate to
the Maritime province, Huston, Port
land, ele. Soon we roll along over a
viaduct of masonry arches, with the
city spread out before us ami enter the
commodious, handsome and palatial
p-isseiicer depot of the Canadian Pacini-
railway, on Dominion Square, one
of the most nuiKtiiliccrt depots In the
world nnd itself one of the sights of
Montreal. It is an Imposing stone
structure fronting on two streets, and
paid to resemble a Norman rastle. it
certainly is a rare combination of ar
chitectural beauty, comfort, and ele
gance, and no expense was spared to
ensure its thorough adaptation to the
Tiquireuients of the company.
This editlce may honestly be called
palatial, resembling as it does a palace
far more than a railway station. I'P
utairs are the head olllces of the com
pany, where the business of the Rival
artery of travel is arranged. Helow
are the minor olllces. Here Is the
ftrond (jeneral waiting room and ticket
ottiee, with its lofty cetlinir, its noble?
arches and massive polished granite
columns: nnd the ladies' waitini; room,
nn illustration of how modern skill can
blend luxury and comfort; and last,
but not least, the law dining room,
also liRRgaKe. freight, etc., all a fit
ting illustration ;' the enterprise of
! this great road. From this. Wlndsoi
street, station are made up trains run
ning direct to New York. Boston, Port
land, nnd all Canadian cities east, and
'also the through trans-continental
trains west for the Pacific coast.
Reaching -the city et early evening
nnd the atmospheric conditions being
favorable, the electric display through
out the city was magnificent. The arc
lights s-emeil like a section of the sky,
with twinkling stars above relleeted In
the deep, clear waters of the St.' Law
rence river and harbor below. This Is
our introduction to the metropolis of
the dominion. What of Its early his
tory, its present condition and future
prospects?
MONTHRAL IN HISTOKY.
Montreal was discovered and visited
' by Jacques. Carter in the fall of V"
and founded in 1042 by the French.
A hundred yearn bef-rp the Hi it ish
conouest of Canada, the French bar
tered with the Indians here, and their
hnrdy soldiers, priests, traders, and
voyagers explored the vast wilderness
around, building forts, establishing
missions and trading posts, and plant
ing settlements on all the great rivers
and lakes. In 1760 it passed into the
possession of the Knglish. Long after
the British occupation, the wants of
the Indiami were supnlled in exchange
for furs and pelts and in this trade
Montreal grew rich and important.
When steam navigation appeared on
the inland waters, the Indians receded
and disapiieared; the entire fertile
country Intuitu settled: towns and
cities sprang up about the old out
posts of the missionaries and fur
traders and agricultural products took
a place with furs and pelts in the com
' merce of Montreal. Then came the
railways penetrating farther into the
Interior In all directions, bringing still
greater changes and giving a wonder
ful impetus to the western country.
The business of the latter with Mont
real prew apace and now we lind ris
ing from the broad St. Lawrence to
the slopes of Mount Hoyal and looking
put over a densely peopled country,
clotted with bright and charming vil
. luges a large and beautiful city "half
French, half Kngllsh half ancient and
half modern," with countless churches.
imposing public buildings, mngnitlcent'
hotels and costly residences: with long
lines of massive warehouses, immense
grain elevators and many windowed
factories; nnd also miles of dock
crowded with shipping of all descrip
tions from the smallest river craft to
the largest ocean vessels.
This village of the Indians of over
two hundred and lifty years u;:o is
today the wealthiest city in Camilla,
the "Queen of the St. Lawrence'" nnd
one of the handsomest most substan
tial and imposing cities on the conti
nent. It is 1st) miles "Southwest from
Quebec and only second to that ancient
city in historic interest.
TI1K MOXTUKAL OF TODAY.
It is situated on a triangular Island
of the same name about thirty miles
long and ten miles wide, formed by
branches of the Ottawa on the north
and the St. Lawrence on the south, and
by virtue of geographical position, at
the head of ocean navigation, its port
may be said to form the connecting
link between the ocean commerce and
that of the great lakes ami riveiV
which fm m the SI. Law rence. In fact
Montreal stands between French Que
bec, ISO miles easl and Kngllsh Toronto
MS miles west. The Island upon which
Montreal is situated contains 111" square
miles, and from its fertility it has
been called the "Harden of Canada."
At Montreal the tourist will hurdly
fall to stay for a few days, for here
i are some most Interesting of memor
ials and natural and rare curiosities to
attract the student of history. Let us,
reader and writer, linger together for
a time in and around this "City of the
Itoyal Mountain," which is a veritable
connecting link between the days gone
by and the days that are.
Like Quebec and Ottawa, It has Its
upper or newer town and lower or old
town, the newer portion being well
laid out and the old being built after
the French manner. Here is the old
Camilla side by side with the new,
here Flench Canada nnd Kngllsh Cana
da come Into close and perpetual con
tact, and yet maintain their Individ
uality. Tile city Is built upon a series
of terraces which is supposed to lie the
former levels of the noble St. Lawrence,
cupped by a mountain heavily wooded
over seven hundred feet above the
liver. The river Is one nnd a half miles
wide opposite the city and its front is
lined for nearly two miles with lofty
and massive walls, quays, and terraces
of gray limestone, said to be uneqileled
in the world except at Liverpool, Paris,
and St. Petersburg. The public and
largely the private buildings are built
of stone, quarried from the face of the
mountain, ami the stranger is Im
pressed with their solidity and beauty
of architecture.
a city of c.yr.';ciiKS.
Montreal is pre-eminently a "city of
churches," taken together with the
convents and colleges are numerous
and imiglillicent structures. The Kng
llsh cathedral, the Jesuit church, St.
Peter's church and the French cathe
dral. Notre Dame, are the most Ini-,
poriant. Here are seventy-nine
churches of various denomlmit ions, the
Catholics largely In the ascendancy.
Mark Twain says he was never in a city
before, when one could not throw a
brick bat without breaking a church
window. In every quarter of the city
you will litul churches, hospitals, con
vents, and other pb.ces oirlellgious re
treat, while on almost any thorough
fare voil meet the black-robed repre
sentatives, both male and female, of
her various ecclesiastical Institutions.
The real estate owned by both orders
of the church In this paradise of the
Kouiun priesthood is of enormous
value. This denomination is also rich
in many educational and charitable in
stitutions located in various parts of
the city. Many of the hospitals and
convents supported by this church we
found well worth a visit, especially, the
"Hospital of the Liivy Nuns," founded
In 17Lii; "the "Hotel Dieu," founded ill
Pi 14. and the Seminary of St. Sulpicc,
founded In Hl.ri7. liesides these, there
are numerous sisterhoods, asyimus,
schools, 'theological and secular, which
further manliest the zeal and devotion
of tills denomination.
MASSIVK CATU KM IA I ,S.
The "Church of Notre Dame" is the
handsomest and most expensive and in
teresting structure on the continent.
It is modeled after the "Cathedral of
Mexico, r.;-.-1 cost G,Wl,UiiO. It is 2".j feet
long and Ml feet wide anil has a chan
cel windur' "f stained glass fil by "2 feet
In sixe. The principal towers are L':7
feet high and one of them contains a
chime of ten lu lls, the largest X'.j feet
in diameter, 674 feet high, weighing
about fifteen tons nnd representing a
cost of $25,000. It is the largest bell ill
America. This c hurch will easily ac
commodate 10,000 people, while latino
often obtain admittance. Its pillars, its
double rows of galleries, its pulpit nnd
its altars, are a marvel of decoration.
It surpasses in grandeur, beauty and
perfection of painting by the most gift
ed artists, any other structure in lite
Dominion. If not on the continent.
The "Cathedral of St. James the
Minor." modeled after St. Peter's at
Lome, and dedicated In 1X!V Is larger
and in some respects more imposing.
Its length Is feet by 222 feet In
breadth. Its height is 25S feet to the
top of the cros. which is IS by 12 feet
and 'weighs 1.7X) pounds. The dome
above this Is IDS feet and the circum
ference outside of the dome Is 240 feet.
From ali ends of the city and the sur
rounding country this dome can be
seen, an object cf veneration to the Ca
nadian nnd admiration to the visitor.
Of the Protestant churches, of which
there are 18 Presbyterian. 14 Episco
pal, 12 Methodist, 4 Baptists, etc., be
sides three Jewish Synagogues, the
Kpiseopal. (Christ church cathedral)
the Presbyterian (St. Paul's church)
and fct. James (Methodist) are the finest
structures nnd most important, while
St. Oabriel Presbyterian church, built
in 1TH2. Is the oldest Protestant church
In Canada. ,
ITS FORKIGN ASPECT.
Tn spite of its nearness to the United
States, as a city, Montreal has a thor
oughly f.ireign asnect. The population
within city limits Is 216.000 souls and
w ith its suburbs amounts to nearly 200.
000, seventy per cent, of whom are
French Canadian and Catholics, the
rest being mainly of English origin. The
bright suburban villages are almost en
tirely inhabited by Frenc hmen and the
French language is extensively used.
Montreal is not only a religious city
but a literary city as well, for here are
several superior libraries that we visit
ed, namely, the MeOill college library,
which contains 25,000 volumes; the Ad
vocate's library, with 15,000; the Pres
byterian college library, w ith 10,000, and
the Montreal college library (Catholic),
which contains us many volumes as
Hie three put together, that is to say,
ful.UOO.
If Montreal Is a city of churches, a
religious and also literary city, is is also
a city of,aiiiiiscmenis. As to theatres,
there are no end of them both French
and English. It is the grand center of
the national game of "lacrosse," and Its
teams have for years held the world's
championship. In winter, Montreal has
its tobogganing, skating, and its gym
nastic halls and Ice carnivals. I'eiiinin
the best skaters and snow -sheers in the
world are the sons and daughters of
Montreal.
Montreal Is the wealthiest city In the
Dominion. The evidenc e of lis wealth
and commercial strength Is seen In the
shipping and business quarters, the
double nnllomilltj- of Its citizens and
the growing importance of the city as a
mercantile center. Anions its stores,
ninny nre Immense structures that
compare favorably with those found in
Huston, New York nnd Philadelphia.
One immense concern where everything
is sold, is worthy to be compared with
Wann maker's of either Philadelphia or
New York.
OTI1EP. ADVANTAGES.
If banks can give evidence of wealth,
Montreal has a profusion of them that
are worthy of careful Inspection. There
are fourteen incorporated institutions,
besides a clearin? house, whose clear
ings amount to some S50ti.00fl.0lKl yearly.
Mont a rea I ranks twelfth among North
American cities which have clearing
houses. As a structure of solid carved
stone, with huge Corinthian pillars and
internally titled up In a manner in no
cord with the millions it represents, the
Hank of Montreal takes the lead.
To see the city nt its best the services
of a "carter" should lie secured, for u
drive in and around the city Is chat til
ing. The roads are macadamized In
all directions, nnd the ride up and
around the mountain to the summit, by
the easy grade, brings to view scenery
so beautiful and grand as to call forth
excamatiims of surprise from every
visitor, be he ever so Indifferent. The
climax is reached from the summit of
Mount Koyal. a picturesque eminence
which crowns the city, and Is one of
the principal features of the city, un ad
junct such us is possessed by no other
city on the continent that we have vis
ited. Mount Hoyal Park, from which the
cdty tukes Its inline, Is u long wooded
ridge which rises 750 feet behind the
city, and contains 4:'.0 acres. It was
purchased by the municipal govern
ment for a park in 1S74. It Is approached
by a winding driveway of four to eight
miles, or, the visitor can test his mus
cles by walking up a romantic path
way, or still more direct, up the long
flights of steps or endless stairway
which have been built from the base
to the very summit, or he c an ascend its
eastern tlope by the Incline railway, u
romantic ride where the grade rises one
foot in every two feet. This latter lis
eetit is a novel exiie.'lence that every
visitor should not fail to take.
A Hi KD'S-KYE VIEW.
From this outlook on the Mountain
Summit let us lake a bird's-eye view
of the city. What do we see'.' As far
as the vision extends to the right and
left, the sparkling waters of the St.
Lawrence lire seen; a mighty artery
of Inland commerce dotted with ship
ping, while over the level cultivated
plain to the right in the distance are
the Adiroiidacks, and dimly outlined
on tile horizon are the peaks of the
Green mountains of Vermont. North
ward runs the Lnuretitian range. Hie
oldest of the continent, meeting the
lovely valley of the St. Lawrence, and
in the foreground is the cdty itself, with
its massive public buildings, colleges
convents, etc. Almost at your fe-t,
and excavated from solid rock In the
side of the mountain is the storage
reservoir of the city water works, which
lias a capacity of :;i;,5imi.uiio gallons, sup
plied by nn aqueduct, bringing the wat
er of tile St. Lawrence from above the
La bine Kaplds, nine mile.'-, to a point
whence it is pumped up the mountain
into ibis reservoir.
Farther down and sloping away from
the foot of the mountain, spread out
on all sides, are broad paved ave
nu.8 and u net work of streets inter
secting each other, heavily shaded with
trees and foliaee and adorned w
public and private buildings. Also,
brilliant wiuaivs. . vast warts houses.
open parks, tall monuments and nun
ureda of snires. cupalos and domes.
The bright-roof, d buildings, the glist
eninir ciiurch snires. the commodious
business blocks, amidst ihis wealth of
shade, deliirht the artistic sense and
uresents a nieture surpassingly beaa
llful. In the distance there Is the fa
mous Victoria tubular bridge that spans
the St. Lawrence, called the "eighth
wonder of the world," and with a
length of a few yards less than two
miles, is the lonc sl bridge in the world
being nearly six years in building, and
costing $6,300,000. .
In sham contrast Is the aerial struc
ture. by which the Canadian Pacitlc
crosses the same river at Lachine. the
most modern design of the Cantilever
principle, whose spans apear like the
clusters of great steel cobwebs, oiler
lug little resistance to the winds, but
combining the ureatest strength with
the least possible weight at a cost of
only $1,000,000.
on this mountain Is a lake of re
niarkiible purity and clearness, which
supplies "holy water" for the Catholic
church, s of the city. On this mountain
also are the Protestant and Itoman
Catholic cemeteries.
There are other points of Interest of
which we would like to make mention
such as the hotels, the public parks,
the el. Kant stuiues and monuments,
etc.. if 'time and space permitted, but
we must hasten on to Quebec, the end
of our trans-coiiiiiienlnl trip, of 12,000
miles through the "Wonderlands of
North America." This we shall de
scribe in our next and lust letter.
J. E. Itichmund.
THE I'NI.OADKO lil'X.
The Lady Knew Its Dangerous Char
nctcr mid Wauled II ltcmoved.
From the Detroit Free Press.
She was rather fussy and evidently
given to magnifying mole hills Into
mountains, nnd when a mnn entered
car In which she sat and leaned a gun
he was carrying against the door she
called out:
"Oh. sir. won't you please point that
cini the other way;
"There Isn't the slightest danger,
nindam." he said; "I am used to guns,
"Well. I'm not. It would go off In
minute and kill everybody In the car
if anything struck the noozle."
"You mean the muzzle," said the
mnn. laughing.
"It's all the same by any name. Con
ductor, 1 wish you would nsk men with
llrenrms to stand outside the car.
"He says it Isn't loaded," answered
the condtii b r.
"What! Not loaded! Then stop the
car quick and let me out! Good gra
cious, to think I've been riding all this
time in the same car with a gun that
wasn't loaded. Why, 1 might have
hee?i killed twenty times," and she
nearly fell off in her haste to leave the
car.
TUB KXt H N;E 1'IEXU.
Excuse ni.'. Mr. Editor, I Just dropped In
That. If you've any papers you are goln'
t, llit'iivv :iV!IV.
I'd reel most mighty gratified If somehow
1 could get ..... , ,
A falrlv recent copy of the old Wayback
Gazette.
Of course, it ain't a daily, but still It
ui.nllld 1(1 ,111.
A paper printed once a week Is Just the
liKht idee.
I always tind wllliln it all the news
renllv n I.
While eitv papers dish up stuff that no
one wants to read.
I've been here now a fortnight with my
iliinirhler Mmnlv's folks:
llslirt seen a thing worth readln' but a
tut of chestnut -lokes.
I hone it ain't presumln', sir, too much
for me lo sav.
I don't see how you manage so to let news
get u v, ay.
I've lead your paper reg'lar, but It makes
me fairly fnam
When I never tind a cussed word about
the folks ill home.
1 hope that you'll excuse me if I etnpha
si7.e mv views
Hut you show must blamed poor Judgment
in seleetiu ot your news.
Who cares about the Sultan of New Jer
sev. alivwav?
I want' lo know how Wayback went for
miivor t'ottier dav.
Who cares for Venezuela, or for Cuba or
for Soain?
Who cares how many turkeys Abdul
Huiuid's folks have slain?
We all know Hint MeKlnley was elected
Pies i ent.
I!ut what I want to know now is how
Wavliaek townshio went.
Who cares a continental how they build
the cabinet V
Has ItilTkins sold his grocery? Is huskin'
elided yet?
I've read your special telegrams from ev
ery torettn spot.
Hut they dou t tell whether Jenkins Is a
justice now or not.
Why eouiiln i ynti Just spare a line or
two some time to say
How Mill Join s ran forotliee? Did the of-
llee get away?
And why not take sufllcient space to add
Upon Die slue.
That old man tVllklns brludle cow got
welt at last, or Uleii .'
Conroiinil your foreign lixins! Give mc
the news, you bet :
And the only paper that prints it is the
ol't W nyliiick (iazette.
Frank S. Pixley. ill the Times-Herald,
'. v 1vfk. f Sri )
mm
. Ml M li
. shw) MJ 1
.. WW Mm i m
mm
I til V
l'i,Vi, WVSVsv
T:i. i; ('111 -
I i h .'it tt-T,e5
A PRIVILEGED CHARACTER:
The Toot; 1 would ha.e made a strong protest, but you know you can't quarrel
with nn editor. (
The editor's Wife: Oh, 1 don't know that. Life. (Copyright, 1SD0, by Mitchell &
Miller.
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