The Scranton tribune. (Scranton, Pa.) 1891-1910, November 14, 1896, Page 8, Image 8

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    TIIE SCRANTON TIUBTJN15 SATUHDAY MOBKING, NOVEMBER 14, 189.
8
NEXT GOVERNOR OF
THE EMPIRE STATE
Character and Record of the Mai Who
Will Succeed Mr. Morton.
HE IS TRULY A SELF-MADE MAN
School and ColU'ee Life of Frank 8.
lilntkllis Standing n a News
ltier Man and a I.awycrIlis ln
dicndince ia Politic, and His
Public Services.
Troy Letter, New York Tribune.
In a quiet, very qulot business street
of this elty one can see tucked on the
wall of a brick UiilUins near a win
dow of the second story a small tin
sii;n. upon which are printed the words
"Fiank 8. Murk. Attorney-at-Law.
Investigation discloses that a similar
siKn ornaments a staircase lruclinu to
the ottice on the second Moor.
Mr. lilack occupies three rooms in
this bul Mint; an unte-room. which
looks out on a back court, and two
rooms whose windows open on First
Ireet, III which the buililintr is sit
uated, ordinarily the ante-room is lit
tle occupied except by Mr. Blacks
clients for a few moments while he
is busy with other callers, but nnvv
.,,1 .v ii i tlinmiTeil nil day by politi
cians of Troy mid elsewhere in the(
state, anxious to obtain a moment's
chut with the Uepul.lican governor- I
elect. Sir. ltluck is thoroughly ood :
1 .....I I... ww...L..u nil viHllnt'S '
JlillUieil, UIIU tin ma ....
utTubly, but it Is plain that he is be
coming perplexed what to do with the
crowds of people who insist upon see
ing liir.i, and Is conscious that a vast
amount of time which he would like
to use otherwise is belntj taken up
with them.
Mr. Klack's law ofllce proper, the
first room one enters from the ante-
i m. has n bis; table in its center,
ami its v.iiIIm nre- hidden from Hljtht
by shelves tilled with the calfskin cov
ered volumes used by the lrtful pro
fession. The Interior room, where Mr.
lilack has private consultations with
his clients ami now with prominent
men of the Republican party, is adorn
ed with portraits of James ll. Itlaine,
Juiniel Webster and ltufus t'hoate,
three men whom Mr. lilack especial
ly admires.
AT WolIK KAUTV KVKltY DAY.
Nowadays Mr. Mlack comes down to
his law olliee from his house on the
heights which overlook Troy at an early
hour for the purpose of Bettintr rid of
a tremendous correspondence which has
suddenly overtaken him. lint for a
Ifood naturcd, tolerant way of looking
upon this creat Interruption to his
former steady application to Ills briefs
nud l.iw books. Mr. lilack would have
reuson for considerable liHrrassment of
Pl'lrlt. A fanner, after listening to one
of Mr. 1 '.lack's speeches at ludensbun?.
vald to the writer: "That man isn't u
politician he's a humorist." And, In
deed, Mr. Black's grave face conceals a
merry spirit. and his appreciation of the
humorous In life Is so keen that It must
relieve the tension upon him to a great j
extent, lie Is also said to lie shrewd
In his judgment of men, and Is not to I
lit humbugged by u display of Interest
fd friendship.
Mr. mack's rise In public life has
been si i rapid and for so many years
was he a hard working lawyer, with a
practice that kept him in his olliee he
Hid a great nniouujl of work ns a con
rulting lawyer that even in Troy his
face is not a familiar one, and the facts
of his interesting life are not well
known. Here, as elsewhere In the State,
U.irc undoubtedly Is a desire to know
more atiout the man who for two years
to come will be the executive of the
great State of New York with Us ,imu,-
t f Inhabitants. Ills friends in this
vicinity within the last week have gath
ered together interesting particulars of
his ciueer which have not hitherto ap
peared In any biographical sketch of
liim, and these afford considerable ma
terial for forecasting his record as gov
ernor. They Indicate a man of great In
dustry, Indomitable courage and high
public spirit.
SON OF TDK PINK TREK STATK.
Mr. lilack was born at l.lmington, In
York county. Me., on March X, ls'il!, and
thus he attained the age of 43 years.
York county Is in the southwestern
part of Maine, forming one of the coun
ties of Thomas It. Uecd's district. Mr.
lilack's father had a rocky farm with
a fractious soil. It was hard work for
him, with his eleven children, to sustain
his family upon the product of such a
farm. C.reat economy had to be exer
cised, and every member of the family
went to work at an early age, yet Mr.
lilack. notwithstanding the privation of
tills life, loves the tild place and Is anx
ious to buy it and keep it In the family.
When Mr. lilack was 11 years old his
parents removed to Alfred, Me., and
there he attended what Is now Lim
erick ncacleniy. It Is nn Interesting cir
cumstance that in September last Mr.
Muc-k addressed his old neighbors on
the political issues of this year from a
platform erected near the Limerick
ncademy, Thomas 11. Heed being an
other speaker on that occasion. From
Limerick ncademy he went to Lebanon
academy, but he was a poor boy, and
his school days were interrupted fre
quently by the need of earning his liv
ing. He taught school and thus earned
money to continue his course of study
at Lebanon academy. Some of the time
he was attending this academy he
walked three miles to It, and then three
miles back home In the afternoon. At
the academy h organized a debating
society and was one of the leading de
baters. At eighteen years of age he was
six feet three Inches in helsht and
tif slender build. With some money gain
ed In teaching and some loans from his
father, which he afterward repaid with
his first earnings, he entered Dart
mouth college in lS7i. He was not well
prepared for college, but by hard work
he made good the studies in which he
was deficient. As before, he taught
school to pay his expenses. One year
lie taught school on Cape Cod in a
village which rested on a bis sand
dune called the Hog's Hack. In his
Junior year lie could only attend his
classes eleven weeks of the session.
The remuinder of the year he was
teaching school. While he was a senior
he taught school at I'rovincetown,
Cape Pod. and there became acquaint
ed with Miss Lois K. Hamlin, who, on
Thanksgiving Day, 187U, became his
wife.
Despite the fact that In the first two
years of his college life he was im
peded by his insiitficlcnt preparation,
Mr. lilack was one of the honor men
on commencement day, had been the
editor of two college periodicals and
had twice been chosen a prize speaker.
DETERMINED TO BE A LAWYER.
While In college Mr. lilack taught
a class In Alstead academy. In New
Hampshire. Upon his graduation he
was Invited to become principal of
three different academies, each at a
salary above $1,000 a year. These were
large salaries to offer to a man only
twenty-two years old, but he had an
ambition to be a lawyer, and he chose
the harder road of preparing for that
profession. Hut he had to earn some
money immediately. Henry W. Smith,
of this cltv, a fellow student at Dart
mouth, offered him a partnership at
selling chromos. They made Home,
In this state, their headquarters. Mr.
Hlack, while selling pictures, became
acquainted with W. M. Ireland, editor
of the Johnstown Journal. Mr. Ire
land at the time was librarian of the
state senate. Pleased with Mr. Black,
he offered him tha post of editor of
The Journal.
Mr. lilack accepted the offer, and
quickly attracted attention to that
humble newspaper by the Independence
of tone It suddenly assumed. It was in
1878, and a conflict arose between Hos-
coe Conkllner and James fS. Blaine. Mr.
Black was from Maine and greatly ad
mired Mr. Klaine. Consequently he
wrote fiery editorials in favor of Mr.
Bluine and in opposition to Mr. Conk
ling. Mr. Ireland jumped home front
Albany in a hurry and Informed Mr.
Black thut he whs a Conkling
officeholder and could not per
mit that sort of a thing to
continue. Mr. Black of course gave
up his Kecial task, but In th meantime
he hjjui begun the study of law in the
office of Wells, Dudley & Keck.
Soon after the Conkling-Blaine episode
Mr. Smith suggested to him that he
come to Troy and continue his law
studies here. Mr. Black took this ad
vice and entered the law olliee of Hub
ert son & Foster. He earned his liveli
hood as a reporter for the Troy Whig
and wrote for legal newspaiers. Wh n
he first came to Troy Mr. lilack lived
at the Smith homestead, five miles dis
tant from Troy, and dally walked to
Troy and returned to the homestead.
His Industry was quickly recognized,
and he became managing clerk for Rob
ertson & Foster. In 1S7. four years af
ter he was graduated at Dartmouth, he
was admitted to practice at the bar.
RAPID ADVANCEMENT.
Partnerships In the firms of Robert
son & Foster and Smith & Wellington
were offered to him. He became a
member of the latter tlrm and remained
with It for one year. Then he leased his
present ulllces on First street, nnd nev
er since has had a partner. His reputa
tion as a lewyer constantly grew until
he became known as one of the leaders
at the liar in Rensselaer county. He
worked ceaselessly In the preparation
of his cases until he hnd thoroughly
mastered them. So thorough was he
known to ht In his work that other
lawyers frequently went to him for ad
vice, and he thus built up a large "con
sultation business." He did not
mingle In social life. From his law of
fice he went to his home on 1'lnewood
avenue and there gained needful rest in
company of his wife and his son Arthur
a boy now fifteen years old attending
the High School.
It was natural that a lawyer of such
ability and with such a painstaking na
ture should build up a large practice.
When the Troy Steel and Iron company,
a gigantic concern, went Into the hands
of the n-eeiver In I.N'.Kl he became coun
sel of the receiver. A little later also
he became counsel of the receiver of
the tJilliit t Car Works company.
KNTERINfl PUBLIC LIFE.
And now came Mr. Black's political
c areer. In Ixkk and again in 1SH2 he hail
made campaign speeches for Benjamin
Harrison, the Republican candidate for
president, all over Rensselaer county.
He hud become aware, while observing
the course of local politics that
hench-men of Senator Edward
Murphy, Jr., of Troy, were per
petrating great frauds at the
polling places He believed that as the
result of these frauds the Republican
party was deprived of hundred of votes
to which It was Justly entitled; tlfit
Democratic repealers polled hundti'ls
of fraudulent Democratic votes, and
that Oetnocrutic inspectors of election
were falsifying the election returns.
lint the mainspring of this corrup
tion Mr. Black believed was due to the
alliance of wealthy .Republicans with
members of the Murphy machine. In
terested in the street railways, the gas
companies and the electric light com
pany with the Murphy Democrats,
these Republicans took pains that no
real opposition should be offered by the
Republican organization to Murphy's
control of Rensselaer county and the
city of Troy. Mr. Black Induced the
city Republican convention to decide
that It was time "to clean house," as
Mr. ltluck expressed It. The "house
cleaning" consisted in undermining the
Intluetiee of the Murphy Republicans
In the Republican party's organization.
Mr. Black became chairman of the
Republican county committee. He de
clined to make any alliances or "deals"
with Senator Murphy. This was unpre
cedented action by a Republican leader
In Rensselaer county. Moreover, he
Induced the Republicans to endorse the
nomination of Dennis J. Whelan. then
an Independent Democrat, for mayor
of Troy, in opposition to Francis J.
Molloy, who was Murphy's candidate.
Lnstlv, Mr. Black Induced the Republi
can legislature to pass a bill granting
tin; Republican and the Democratic
parties each two election inspectors
at the polls In Troy The Democratic
governor of the state, at the Instigation
of Senator Murphy, vetoed this act.
ROVSED BY MURDER OF ROSS.
The election In Troy followed and
the public Is familiar with the mur
der of Robert Ross, a Republican
watcher at the polls In Troy, by "Bat"
Shea, a Democratic ward worker. What
the public Is not so well Informed
about Is the great part that Mr. Hlack
took In the punishment of the mur
derer of Ross. Mr. Black was the or
gunlzer of the committee of public
safety the day after Ross was mur
dered. He signed the following no
table call:
The cltizfns of Troy are Invited to As
semble 111 the Fifth Avenue Presbyterian
church on Thursday evening, .March 8, at
8 o'clock, to express their iiullunation in
connection with the terrible crime com
mitted in the Thirteenth ward ut yes
terday's election, which has resulted in
the death of Robert Ross.
The undersigned call the meeting, hop
ing that the people of our city, without re.
sptct to any distinction of party, will meet
In the place designated mid show by their
presence ami words their love for t lie fair
name of our city and their appreciation of
any efforts which may be made to brinic
the guilty parties, whoever they may be,
to speedy Justice.
Norman H. Squires,
Chaiics A. MelA'od,
II. B. Thomas,
I'Isek IlUSSey,
Frank S. lilack.
Chillies 8. Francis,
Seymour Van Santvoord,
ieorge H. Wellington,
Let! rand C. Tlbbits.
MU. BLACK'S STIRRING APPEAL.
Mr. Black's speech at that Indigna
tion meeting strongly Illustrates his
character when It Is stirred to the
depths by any such terrible occurrence
as the murder of Koss. Mr. Black thus
spoke plainly about the crime:
Fellow citizens. I have been asked to
speak for ten minutees, but I shall not oc
cupy one-half that time. 1 shall have but
little to say. for I could not express my
sorrow, my indignation and my shame if
I stood before you until my hair had
turned gray. There has never been im
posed on me a duty to which I felt so un
equal as I do to this which now rests upon
me in common with all others who still
have manhood enough left so that they
care to assert It.
Words nre of no nvall unless they sh.dl
stir to action, and the action shall produce
results. If those results are not now to
be accomplished then Is the city indeed
lost. If there is such a thing as adequate
cause for action, even to the extent of
revolution, that cause now exists. There
has Just been committed here u crime so
shocking and glgantle as to put unother
sear on the face of a city long renowned
for its crimes.
HALF THE DUTY.
The people are met here to denounce It,
but denunciation Is only hulf the duty;
the other half is to place the responsibil
ity. The fear thut has so long rested upon
the city, the subserviency that has ch.ir.
acterized Its Inhabitants, should be tiling
off and the truth should be spoken. The
responsibility wus not upon the outlaw
who tired the shot. He was the product
of corruption w much as his revolver
was the product of Invention. The pistol
responded to the power that created iiini.
Against him you must make the charge
of murder, but you must reach above
him before you place the responsibility
for It. If he had not believed thut he
would be protected. If ho had not believed
that murder was part of the damnable
trade In which he had embarked, he
would not have committed It.
The loud upon "Bat" Shea's shoulders
Is not one-half as great us that upon the
shoulders of those who fostered him. If
they had been honest, he would have been
impossible. You may hang "Bat" Shea
and all his friends, but their successors
will continue to rise up and will linullv de
stroy you unless you cleunse the ditch out
of which they sprung. You will never
preserve that which Is worth preserve.'
until you strike at the responsible soliiee
of attack. You can never slop the terrible
evil which has cursed this city until you
stop praising the authors of It and cov
ering them with honors. As long as you
denounce them In public and In private
court and receive their favors you will be
their slaws and victims, for your action
will be neither sincere nor effective until
your public uttei slices und your private
sets shall Le consistent.
A SEEMINl! PARADOX.
I do not understand how the leader of a
disreputable gang of repeaters and crim
inals can be the personal friend of dea
cons and elders und straitened creed wor
shipers, and at the same time the pro
nounced enemy of every decency which
these worshipers pretend to conserve. If
laws are to exist, you must guard their
enforcement. You must resist the pow
ers thut delile them, whether such powers
be wchk or strong, whether they be re.
pcarcrs, those cheap and detestable
worms, or the protecting class aliove them
In the disgraced garb of policemen's dress,
or In thu still higher form of corrupt and
unscrupulous leadership.
This murder should be avenged; Its ;-ei-etition
should l. prevented. The evil
which now confronts you Is u coward us
well us u criminal, und if you have the
co il rime to fuee it. it will crouch and slink
away under the steady gaze of all aroused
public conscience.
A TOUCH OF HUMOR.
You didn't believe Sumter was fired
upon, but it was. You have looked In ths
face of this crime so long that you have
liuuily made up your minds to Htjiarut'.i
yourselves from It even If you have to
tear u dollar bill In two. ttUaughter).
Then there is nothing left for you to do
but to put grit Into your determination.
There Is not the hast doubt of your re
demption. There is honesty, intelligence
In this city, but It Is cast down, nailed
In, and of late years there has not been
any hiMitln-r for ll. You should Insist
UHn the laws being enforced, if they ure
opposed by the police or persons lusher
ill authority, tl.oud applause.)
Mr. lilack ns counsel of the commit
tee of safety labored unremittingly to
prevent the packing of the Jury which
was to try "Bat" Shea. All that he
desired was to secure a just trial for
Shr-u. Five of the members of the jury
which convicted Shea were of his own
religious faith, the Roman Catholic.
Six ot the members of the jury were
Democrats. No man had a fairer trial,
and the Court of Appeals afterward
gave a decision that he Imd been Justly
tried.
ELECTED MEMBER OF CONGRESS
Mr. Black gained such prominence
at this time that It quite naturally
-happened that he was nominated for
congress by the Republican party in
1MI4. Senator Murphy attempted to de
feat him, but Mr. Black was elected
by the lar;e plurality of 11.440 votes
over his Democratic predecessor as
representative of tile coniffess district.
In the house of representatives Mr.
Black was appointed a member of the
important committees on Pacific rail
roads and private land claims.
Mr. Black's nomination for governor
by the Republican state convention
mi Aug. ITi was n surprise to him. He
hud not expected the honor. His friends
here had believed that they could bring
about his nomination, but he had not
shared 111 their sanguine views. When
nominated he decided to make few
speeches, und those he did make to
be on national uff'alrn, since the pco
dc of the slute nnd nation were chief
ly concerned ubout the right settle
ment of the silver issue.
AT MR. BLACK'S HOME.
Mr. Black lives In a roomy and beau
tiful cottage on Pine Woods avenue.
The house has a line lawn In front of
it. It Is a two-slnry house of wood,
painted white, with a broad hall run
ning through its centre and with
spacious verandas surrounding it. Mrs.
Black, as already stated, was a Miss
l.ols Hamlin, daughter of Dr. milium,
of PiMVincetown, Mass. She was born
there, and was fond of boating, natur
ally, ns a Cape didder. She was grad
uated ut the High School at Province
town, and thought for a time of at
tending college, but uhaiuUined her In
tention. When she und Mr. Black were
married they cumu at once to this city
and lived not far from Its business
quarter for a time, but eleven years ago
they bought their present home on Pine
Woods avenue and have lived there
since. Mrs. Black Is fond of music,
und her piano playing Is the special
pleasure of herself, her husband and
her sun.
Mr. and Mrs. Black have not yet de
cided about their plans for the execu
tive mansion. That house is not home
like. It is a big barn. In fact, only (It
for public entertainments., w'hile Mr.
and Mrs. Black will occupy it this win
ter. It Is probable thut they will open
their Pine Woods avenue house again
in the spring und live there until Jan
uary 1, WM.
MRS. BLACK.
Mrs. Black Is a genial, frank speaking
woman, with a cheerful and youthful
face. She will undoubtedly be thor
oughly well liked ns the governor's
wife, and be of great assistance to him
In entertaining his guests at the exe
cutive mansion.
Mr. und Mrs. Black have onlv one
child, a boy, Arthur, who Is now fifteen
years old und who Is In the second year
of his course at the High School in
Troy. He will continue in school there,
while living with his parents the com
ing winter at the executive mansion.
SO.MKTHIX; A1IOI T LAMPS.
The Story ol the Accidental Discovery
oftlm Area nd Chimney.
From the Philadelphia, Times.
To the Egyptians have been given the
honor of inventing the lamp, but it
seems more than probable that they re
ceived It from the older civilization of
India. The lamps originally used by the
Hebrews, the Egyptians, and the
Oreeks were simple lit vessels with a
small handle at one end and at the side
a little projection with a hole forming a
nozzle. In the back was u larger open
ing, into which the oil was poured. The
oil used was generally vegetable but ac
cording to Pliny it was sometimes of
liquid bitumen.
The lamp commonly used In Egypt at
the present time is a small glass ves
sel, with a tube In the bottom In which
is placed a wick of cotton twisted
around u straw. The common lamp of
India Is a small earthen saucer, with
a bit of twisted cotton for u wick. The
ordinary traveller's torch or lamp In
India Is a bundle of strips of rags on
the end of a stick, with oil poured over
It. in '"Bible lands" the lamp commonly
used Is a small earthenware plate,
with the edge turned up to muke it hold
a small quantity of nil.
Among the most beautiful ruins of
antiiiuily that have been preserved nre
a great number of Egyptinn. Creek
and Roman lamps, formed of clay,
metal, terra cotta, and bronze. The
museum at Naples contains the finest
variety of specimens to be found any
where. These were recovered from the
ruins of Pompeii und Hereulaneum.
Some lamps were hung with chains to
bronze candelabra: Home were sup
ported by beautiful brackets.
In 1S74 Ami Argand, a Swiss residing
In London, made an entire revolution
in nrtllichil light by Inventing a' burner
with a circular wick, the tlanie being
thus supplied with an Inner and nn
outer current of air. To Arrant! we
also owe the Invention of the common
glass lamp chimney. He wits very de
sirlous of increasing the light given
,out by the lump that he had Invented,
and to that end had made many experi
ments, but all to no purpose.
One night, ns he sat at his work
table thinking, he noticed an oil Husk
lying near, off which the bottom had
been broken, leaving a lung-necked,
funnel-shaped tube. He carelessly
picked this up nnd "nlmost without
thought" laced It over the Hume of his
lump. The result astonished and de
lighted him. for the tlame became a
brilliant white lliiht. Argand made a
practical use of the hint thus given
him by devising the lump chimney.
If the Haby Is Cutting Teeth.
Mrs. Wlnslow's Soothing Syrup ha
been used for over llfiy years by mil
lions of mothers for their children
while teething, with perfect success. It
soothes the child, softens the gums,
allays nil pain, cures wind colic and Is
the best remedy for diarrhoea. Sold by
druggists !n every part tf tho world.
He sure and call for "Mrs. Winslow's
Soothing Syrup," and take no other
kind. Twenty-five cents a bottle.
ARMENIAN CITY
OF THE DEAD
The Kuios ol Anl, Oae or the Aocieot
Capitals of the Kiojs.
IN THE SHADOW OF MOUNT ARARAT
It I. ics Near the Resting Place of
Noah's Ark and Met a Fate Like
That of Pompeii When It Was Dc
stroyed iu the Filtecuth t'catury by
an KnrlhiunkeVisit by French
Scientist.
Motis. F. de Mojeau. a French scien
tist, gives In the St. Louis Globe Dem
ocrat an interesting account of a recent
visit to the ruins of Anl the Armenian
Pompeii In the following:
Alenundrnpol, since IHiS a Russian
fortress defending Transcnucasla, be
longed at one time to the ancient
kingdom of Armenia, when it was
known as liumrl. Today It Is a Turkish
town In sentiment, customs and lan
guage, like the City of Kars, situated
thirty-five miles to the northeast, and
boasting of a Muscovite garrison quite
as strong as Alexundroiiol. On leaving
the latter place en route for the other
my Armenian host advised me to step
over at the buried and abandoned cap
ital of his race, ancient Anl, or Annl,
that has lain In ruins for EOt) years.
1 confess the request und the Informa
tion conveyed by It startled me. I
dimly remembered having read the
terrible late of tho town of towns, and
that its destruction was regarded as a
most Interesting volcanls phenomenon
In past centuries, but of Its physical
existence at this late day I hud no
idea. "The coachman I have provided
for you," said the Armenian, "knows
the way; If the horses hold out you will
leach Ant at sundown."
We rode tlfteen miles, maybe twen
ty, over the basalt terraces of the
Alaghez mountain range; a gloomy,
monotonous country, deep valleys,
heaven-storming heights, no trees, no
brushwood as fur as the eye travels,
only here and there a bunch of dried
up grass, but not a living sound, no
bird, no game, no human being; every
thing steeped In yellowish-gray tints,
rocks, sand und sparse vegetation.
Only the lirmamcnt, a wonderful (Ireek
blue. At night full we reached Sum
latl, a village composed of caverns with
a single entrance for man and beast,
devoid of outlets for smoke and other
exhalations. The richest peasant of this
Hellenic colony offered to harbor us
till morning, and, armed with a torch
led the way to his subterranean castle.
This consists of a low-cellnged exca
vation at the end of a passage way,
which latter Is just broad enough to
admit a buffalo. Thank the Lord, our
host, being a wealthy man, lodged his
cattle in a separate compartment,
wher after profound discussion, our
horses were likewise Installed. The roof
of the hall rests on heavy beams, but
that of the llvlnu room was supported
by a sintrle pole in the middle, like a
tent, opposite the entrance was the
fireplace, to the left and right were
constructed recesses S or 4 feet above
the Moor. They had coverings of furs
or blankets, and were Intended for
resting places during the night.
The meal cooked over a lire of dried
cow manure and straw consisted of
milk, fresh bread, eggs and tea, and
was served on stone plates. They have
no trees In this part of the world, nnd
ulmost all articles of necessity and con
venience are made of either Iron or
stone. After prayers our host and
family prepared for bed in the right
alcove, while my companion and my
self withdrew Into the left, though not
to sleep. The mytiuds of Insects In
habiting the earth walls and crevices
probably held a council of war while we
were taking supper, and now marched
upon us in closed columns, overpower
ing us by the first savage attack; The
agony lusted six solid hours, our pre
dicament being the more annoying us
the Greeks evinced, by their powerful
snoring, the enjoyment of perfect rest.
No wonder they hnd welcomed us so
effusively. Probably they knew their
creepers' preferences for foreigners,
THE GREAT ARARAT,
At 5 we were up, and, after a hasty
breakfast, got into the wagon. An
hour's sharp driving brought us within
sight of the grent Ararat, whose snow
capped summits were clothed in a red
dish hue by the rising sun. This moun
tain Is the traditional resting place of
Noah's ark, and our driver, who seemed
to be very well rend In holy script, ex
plained at length the mythical situa
tion of the giant ship after the Hood.
Incidentally It may lie mentioned that
by an earthquake of 1K40 the form of
the mountain has been greatly changed,
so that Noah, if he came back today,
would probably be unable to tell him
self where he landed after his voyage.
Suddenly, after we turned n corner of
the plateau, an endless valley dotted
with ruins lay at our feet. It was Anl,
the city of kings that has been. Still,
seeing the town from a distance, the
stranger to her history would never rec
ognize her torpid state. The Anl of to
day looks more a deserted place than
one that had been visited by a great
natural catastrophe. Like a succession
of enchanted palaces, it stretches from
north to south, grand, silent, Imposing
In its decay, as if awaiting the magi
cian's wand to break the charm that
holds It fettered.
On three sides the rushing waters of
the Ariitichal river encircles the city,
while the broad expanse of ruins Is all
along Inclosed by a mighty wall of bas
alt blocks with toweling battlements
and parapets. The citadel Is ut the
northern extremity, the stronghold hav
ing two ranges of powerful walls and
several towers nnd bastions, round and
sleek In atmeurunee, as If but recently
finished. These observations, as stated,
were made from a distance, (in near
lug the spot we found the walls bullet
torn, battered and rent by breaches,
the silent witnesses of many assaults
with stone throwing catapults, ballists
and other medieval wnr engines.
We entered the eastern gate, which
Is quite as well preserved as the rem
nants of ancient fort Iflcflnt ions one sees
in European cities. Of course there Is no
woodwork visible anywhere, only stone
nnd metal; the absence of all vegetation
In these ruins is another surprising
fact. Under the heavy footstep of cen
turies of abandonment, plant life has
entirely disappeared from this desert
of stone and never-yielding mortar.
Where unco a heavy portcullis defied
Asiatic barbarians, nn Iron sign hangs
now directing visitors where to go for
a guide through the ruined city. The
notice was done In French nnd Armen
ian, the two idioms renerall." under
stood In this neighborhood, where sev
enty different dialects are spoken.
The road leadinir Into the Interior
was clear of Iticumberance for a mile
at least, then we left our wagon and
proceeded an equal distance on foot,
climbing over broken columns, heaps
of stone nnd lava and debris of iron
work. Though the road was frequently
dotted with obstructions many stories
In height, we never lost track of its
winding lines, which were perfectly
traceable, even purts of basalt pave
ment havln! remained In place. Sud
denly we found ourselves opposite a
chasm, the bottom of which escaped
tho searching eye. "Here," said our
driver, " the enrth shocks were the
fiercest, according to the old legend;
still they did not reach far enough to
shake the royal palace yonder to
pieces."
WELCOME OF THE MONK.
We looked across the way, where the
outlines of a grand hall rose heaven
ward and then noticed the figure of a
man standing at the entrance and wav
ing a cloth toward us. "He Is the monk
who shows the faithful the sacred
spots," said the driver.
The stranger approached cautiously
and led t over a sort of Improvised
bridge to Ids living place. This. then,
was the ancient palace of the Bagra-tldc-s,
kinss of Armenia. It stood on a
lofty eminence and was approached by
nights of steps, now tattered and torn
and offering many obstacles to the
foot attempting to scale them, but still
showing vestiues of their original
prandeur. I have seen the steps of
Persian architecture, but these of the
royal palace of Anl exceed In that of
the sculptures with which they are
ornamented.
Each step Is borne on the shoulders
of several figures, which probably rep
resent types of the royal vassals and
the peoples under their sway; the step
is fully twenty-live feet long.
There the monk, having gone ahead,
stood holding out Ids hands to help us
ascend. Then we saw, to our utmost
astonishment, that the outer shell of
the palace was almost Intact. Of
course there were no roof, no doors, no
windows, the marble walls were crack
ed and numerous columns broken, b it
the ruins looked ns If they would lend
themselves gracefully to an attempt to
rebuild the grand original structure.
The monk explained the building plan
to us. After passing through the giant
gateway, we entered a grand hall,
which Is still partly supported by col
umns, the old vestibule. I should Judge.
Behind that was a court surrounded
by a double row of columns, then there
were chambers, lodges. Immense par
lors. In some of the latter the mosaic
lloor coveting was still recognizable
and the capitals of the columns were
ornamented with rich foliage; all the
outer walls nre of marble, and the im
mensely thick dividing walls between
the different compartments appeared
to be marble clad.
"History," said the monk, "contains
no descriptive accounts of ancient.
Ants, nut l judge that this palace ana
most of the great buildings of the town
were constructed In the style of Pciti
nnd Assyria. They probably had flat
roofs supported by wooden columns,
of these no vestige has remained, they
hnve been eaten by tire, swallowed up
by the earthquake, burned by lava or
rotte.1 away,"
"Tell us something of the old kings
and old Armenia," I said. The monk
seemed to have awaited this prayer
rather impatiently, for he at once en
tered upon a lengthy report of legends
and facts so interwoven that no one,
at this late date, may tell them apart.
Ancient Armenia comprises, it seems,
the northeastern part of Mesopotamia
and the Kurdish mountains1 t the
Caucasus and Georgia. The inhabit
ants embraced Chtistlntilty In the third
century and rose soon to u high state of
civilization and culture. The Bagra
tlde dynasty came to the throne in the
year the first king being descended
from n noble Jewish family. He and
his successors were most lenient In re
ligious matters, and permitted mosques
to be built within the precincts of their
capital. They were a peaceful race
and the country achieved great com
mercial distinction under their rule,
but that made them unfit for war and
the Mongols and Turks overran the
country. In the year 1$45 Alp-Arslan,
sultan of the Seljuks, took Anis by
storm and put the citizens to the
sword. The Bngratldes fled to Georgia,
where they reigned In a small way, un
til 1S2. The SeljukB occupied the cap
ital and country thereafter, but at the
beginning of the fourteenth century a
terrible natural catastrophe drove nut
conquerors as well as natives. Then a
terrible earthquake shook the great
city to pieces, and the lava from the
surrounding volcanoes burled one-half
of Its surface. Those Inhabitants that
escaped death fled town and country
and for five long centuries the city that
harbored a million people has lain de
serted, silent, dead.
The most curious fuct In connection
with the city of Anls is that the at
mospheric conditions seem to oppose
decay. The ruins are today as little
weather beaten as several hundred
years ago. The delicate tints of mosaics
as sttaed, have withstood 500 years of
exposure, and the Inscriptions on many
buildings are still easily discernible. I
doubt not that from them a learned or
ientalist could read many pages of for
gotten history.
CITY OF THE DEAD.
For hours we wandered through the
streets of this city of the dead without
encountering a living thing human,
animal, Insect or product of vegetation.
The Dead Sea is a center of activity
compared with the silent town, which
In the days of her glory Is said to have
numbered 100,000 houses and palaces
and thousands of abodes of worship.
"And nre you the only Inhabitant?"
I demanded of the monk.
"The only one In this part of the
town, which a whlrlstorm that occurr
ed 200 years ago denuded of the layer
ol lava," was answered. "In the north
ern extremity the families of several
herdsmen have made their homes In
caves that originally may have served
for burial places. They never cross over
the self drawn boundary line, though,
for they are Mussultnuns. This city
you must know, Is the holy shrine of
Armenian Christendom, whereto the
faithful pilgrimize annually, praying
for the reconstruction of their lost em
pire." The streets of Anls are marked by
facades of the houses und other edifice
that once lined them. The majority of
the smaller buildings has been reduced
to ruins, but the larger ones, having
walls of great thickness, tower high
iu the air, dismantled, but proud of
outline and exhibiting lofty designs.
Columns of nil known and unknown
orders are lying in heaps among the
ruins, plain and fluted, ornamented
with devices und Inscriptions, flower
work and Isis-headed. the capitals of
the latter being formed by one or more
heads of the diety.
At the south end of the town stands
a cathedral of massive proportions.
This edifice Is wondrously well pre
served. Being built in the form of a
Latin cross, it was originally sur
mounted by two eight-cornered tow
ers. Of these one remains. The mid
dle nave supports on graceful pillars a
stone roof that shows only a few
racks. Thus protected the Interior
decorations of Byzantine style ure re
markably well preserved. The arches
nre most lofty and exhibit wonderful
workmanship. In unother church
erected over a mighty chasm between
rocks we discovered two frescoes,
"Marin nt the Grave of the Savior"
nnd "Christ Eenterlng Jerusalem."
The colors were vivid and the figures
easily distinguishable. We visited fif
teen churches and two mosques, one
of the latter being built in the style of
the Alhambra.
licsccndl'v: to the river we saw a
ruined bridge of stone, supporting on
colossal arches three roads for travel,
one over the other, each story over L0
feet In height. Next we encountered n
wrios of wonderful excavations sunk
in the solid rock and extending for
three or four miles. The monks said
they had been used as aqueducts In
time of war. We also visited the
burled part of the town, where our
steps resounded hollow, as If we were
walking over a tunnel. Descending
into the valley we ran across another
series of caves sunk Into the rock. The
monk explained that this was the an
cient bnzaar.
Mennwhlle the- hours lied and the
monk reminded us that we had better
make haste and return to the Greek vll
lnge, us we were expected to give all
the victuals we carried to him for his
services. Seeing the neighborhood
yields nothing In the way of food and
that the old man would not take
money, which was, Indeed, of no use to
hltn, we compiled with his request af
ter loading our wagon with debris and
our pockets with. coins which the monk
had collected from the ruins. Next
year, In May, or earlier, Professor Mar
re, the archaeologist from St. Peters
burg, nnd myself, will begin regular
excavations In Artis. which, as I have
found out on my return trip, can be
reached from Alexandropol in eight
hours.
The princess Christian of Schleswlg
Holsteln has an annual allowance from
the British people of fli.OOO.
3
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