THE SCBAXTON TRIBUNE-SATUUDAY MOBNING, NOVEMBER 7, 189.
The Moqui Indians and
Their Queer Snake Dance.
Ko!ab!3 Feaiura, of a Sinj-jiir 3b
ss3 'foaj a Stra.iga and
Interacting People.
IMS PHBIfED FQ3EST
EirntiVB of a Threa Vacks'. Sojourn
Among t!ia Picturesque Hatiw
TribCS Of the Far SCUiUWeSt HOW
u.iaj vi iuu mi (
v. t rt,:u- rn-v Mida tn !
tu8 MOq'Jl Ctillaraa Were IBiae lO
tA Irhfin! Kit farSOll'S V'Slt. I
IjO 10 acnooi mi wisuu s i.sn-
, , . . . I
Oid-TllUe VaV 0 TfapPing Mite-
!
lops Soma of tie Remarkable
Sights to Be Seen in Cnilcedony
Part.
T!. . te.J 'v lMhrook. Arizona, en
l one for tit- -Mooui snake dance, with
r. J. f'randoll. a first-claw piiotogrnph-
-r. to fi-eoru wnnt we inn, iv
.n i'.v mi tnile tr:iin on the Santa !
F- railroad, rapidly passing through I nv.-ay by wind and rain, the great lec
l!ie foothill 'district ot the f-an Gnbrll j .ding forces of nature.
: ll. y. which extends eastward from vviTTNT: I vvn
l Angeles slxtv miles ulontr the, - LMNMITM. LAN i.
-..utliern sloj-.u (f.tlie Mevra Madre 1 Scarcely any vegetable life is se-n on
mountains'. j I lies- buttes. Many sti nnt?e forms give
i'Msing the summit of the range near a picturesque npnearanee to the land-H-spfi-ia
we follow the Mojave river: ycape. The different colors of the d!s
iiii i n t is In.-1 in the sands of the desert, i integrating strata of rock and earth.
Notico,il.,le near I'agdad may oe s?on ;
mi extinct volcano kss man one nun
liotn the track. V.road beds of lavn
xtciid tvir a long ulstanee in sight. The
il-s. i t continues to the Colorado river,
v.l.; h v.e rrnsa niinn a cantilever
Iriilce of remarkable construction. We
-u. n begin to ascend and reach the pine
covered uplands which skirt the San ,
rrancls mountain. This beautiful pin?
for. -st Is free from underbrush and In '
s.'itie places looks like a nicely kept
park. l"er and antelope linger In
siirht of the train. Lumber mills arc :
iVinitling the country, ivw tou dry for;
c-nnval cultivation.
CAVE DWELLERS' HOMES. ,
t l'Ui"stafi' is a cotr.fenable hot'T
and a wagon awaits your arrival to'
, Mirv vou live miles over a good road ,
1.. the greatest natural wonder of this j
.eminent the grand canvon of the
Colorado and a few miles east of town
I he cave dwellers' homes may be seen.
ln not confound these with the cliff
dwellings; they are very different. The
cive dwellings occupy the southern
slope of a volcanic hill which rises In
i!i- Plain about 200 feet high. The
. ir.es are globular in form and corre
spond to what tire called bv furnace
on n blowholes In pig Iron, or slag of
!:io furnace, These eaves are in size
inrti six to twenty-five feet in dia
i i t-r. all have circular openings and
w approached by steps or short lad-I
I is. We counted twenty rooms which
wive evidence ot having been occupied
by prehistoric men. The openings were
sometimes protected on the upper side
by a low stone wall built portly around
the opening. All the roms were par
tially tlll"d by the nesting of small nnl
i i.'Is and the rtchrl of the prehistoric
i.in, the cave dweller. In clearing all
tliii out we found stone Implements,
remnants woven of cotton und wool,
i. i n col s, and a coarser fabric of Yucca
id -r. and sandals made of the same.
The extreme dryness of the cave had
i ii-. s-1-ved these light materials. Frag
ments of cfiiy pottery were abundant,
:o'd n tew bone Implements and bones
animals used ns food. We saved all
tin-so rude mementoes telling us of the
customs of a people who have passed
nw.iy and l-ft no record. In the plain
not far away we saw evidences of what
H-emed to be foundations of rude dweli
inirn and possibly of the cultivation of
corn,
CLIFF DWELLERS.
Kight miles south of Flagstaff Is
Walnut Canyon, one cf those great
i iiirows in the earth surface peculiar
ii this country. The. canyon alone Is
well worth a visit, and here the tourist
may easily reach the deserted home of
Unit prehistoric people, the cliff dwell-
is. Sitting In your carriage, upon the
ilge of this canyon, you may look upon
Hie wnlls of the d-serted homes of the
lift dwellers, built between the harder
-irata of the sidi? walls of this great
sorge. The walls on either side are
almost perpendicular and difficult to
npprnach by the narrow paths which
I .id down from the top. In some places
Mine and the elements have so wasted
the roi k that they can only be reached
by ladders or ropes. But enough are
accessible to gratify the tourist.
Here we cleared out the debris' of a
living room, finding much the same
vldenee of the customs of this peo
i'!e ns wo had found in the cave dwell
ings. We found a cottnnwood stick six
f-.'c-t long and four inches In diameter
resting upon stones forming a seat
across one corner of the room. The
ends of this had been cut by a stone ax.
Almost every article found In these ex
aminations may be duplicated todav In
the Pueblos and many are still In use.
I um sure no one can visit this
i-trange country, so properly ca.ied
"Wonderland." and see tne evidences
ot the prehistoric man having lived
here, nnd not he led to Inquire when,
why, and where they have gone,
EARLY INHABITANTS.
T venture this opinion as to why they
have gone. I see everywhere evidence
i hut considerable numbers of mankind
have subsisted on this ground, and that
they could not today for want of water.
I have visted many similar places in
Arizona, Including Casa Grande. I
have seen the earthworks, mounds, ru
ins, and water ditches of this people
who I believe were the ancestors of the
Aztecs. I believe that the Aztec tradi
tion Is true, viz. that their ancestors
came from the North, that they hnd an
oracle the voice of God which direct
ed them to go South and build a city.
That a sign was given them Indicating
where they should build, "where they
should see an eagle standing upon a
nopal (cacti) with r serpent In his
benk," there they should stop and
build a city. These conditions were
found on the margin of Lake Tuncoco,
and there they built the city of Mexico.
This tradition Is perpetuated upon the
coins of Mexico, I believe that the or
acle was as they believed the voice of
Ood. spoken to man In the form of a
mighty earthquake which caused the
earth to tremble and opened subter
ranean water ways which so drained
the country thut man could not subsist,
snd that in this very distinct way Qod
told them to go, and they understood
and went.
About twenty-five miles south of
Grant's station on the Atlantic and
I'nciHc railroad may be seen the ruins
of a prehistoric adobe dwelling long
since deserted. The only record of why
this Is so is written in a stream of lava
which flowed into the onen doorway
and remains there a silent testimony
of the Aztec oracle.
DEVIL CANYON.
Twenty-three miles east of Flagstaff
we reach Canyon Diablo, altitude 2,421
feet, a great gorge in the level plain,
260 feet deep by 600 feet wide, spanned
by an iron bridge. The conductor kind.
ty steps the train, allowing us time to I
secure a picture ar.d the passoimors to
view the canyon. Near this point sev- !
tral masses of meteoric Iron have been i
f.iuml. weiffliins from a few . unces to j
several hundred pounds. So many
pieces have been found as to lead to the
brook (attitude 5,l'T':). the end of our.
railroad Journey. Here we chartered a
covered wa;,'on wuti siiruiR seats, anu
having loudcd our camp equipage and
ldiotographic outllt we started north
for Ream's Canyon and the Moijui In
dians, ltnl tulles from Pueblo.
I our read leads us through a country
i pearly barren of vegiiatioii or oi ani-
nal life. Here and there we noticeu
remains of p.-lr.lil trees figments
ol ,vlic(1 ,,r a hkIu pi ay color nre scnl-
teivd over the ground like chips in an
Eastern raniv.rs wood yard.
We soon came into a stratm" country
where volennle action hud evidently
lvi.t th earih jn a iniist linu8Ua, ,.
ner. AH ttbiut as fur lis the eye could
IPaeh o.-e great .buttcs rising above
i iu li-vel lilnin ITiO to 2i feet high.
They varied In size and helRht, as the :
numerous rock formations differed which !
composed them. In some instances the
upper strata, being harder than the un
der.pr.d the softer portion wast tig more
rapidly, leave projecting tables which
in time fall and cover the sloping sides,
and all In time are disintegrated by na
ture's forces. Having returned tn dust,
they start on their journey to the plain
"lid ocean depths. Here may be seen
most plainly how the earth surface is
being leveled oft and the different miu-
era Is nre b"lng tMssolved and carried
varying from white to red nnd black.
mingling ns they do In sliding down the
slopes to the level of the plain, caus; j
n shading very pleasing to the eye.
In wandering among them I felt sure j
that the crentnr had Pot got this coun
try ready for settlement, and that what
, ., ' ......v.....
hands of the Creator.
The clearness of the atmosrihcre, the .
absence of timber and vegetation, the j
Miunr.c siiin.cn ui me uuiter, :
wonderful beauty of the clouds.: the .
IM-rfect stillness, where thre was noth- '
ing to make a noise, mndo up the niiwr
I restful conditions, which a dweller in i
the city cuii imagine. ,
Scarce any animal life is seen. One j
b'ne coyotte. a tew jacK minm? ami
ground squirrels one lone rattlosnaKe
and a few lizards make up the list of
all the wild animal lite upon the entire
trip, aooui twenty nines o-.er u
gooci trail we reacneo a ury inn, iiu. c
we found a well nnd rested our team,
lunched and pushed on hoping to reach
another well In early evening. About 9
p. m. we overtook some teamsters who
hnd camped for the night, but the
darkness forbade our finding the spring
so we made a dry camp, lunched and
slept upon the warm earth as soundly
as nt home. Early next morning we
made a hasty breakfast and pushed on
Uefore noon we reached the next water. I
NAVAJO HOGANS.
Under the shadow of one of these
great buttes a small spring of good
water induced several families of the
nomadic Navajos to build their hogans,
or huts, and make it home for a season.
They still roam over the country, pay
ing "little attention. to the reservation
lines, If, indeed, they know where they
are. The Navajo leads his flock to the
best pasturage and water, and if he
finds a little mint land will Plant a
little corn, as in this case. Here we
called and Bpent an hour pleasantly; we
secured a picture of a hogan and the
family.
The hut Is built by setting poles Into
the earth In circular form, bringing the
tops together in the form of a Sibley
tent. Next they are covered with bark
or brush, and then a coat of earth.
When the lodse Is waterproof and
ready for occupancy, an opening look
ing toward the eastern sunshine hav
ing been left, a blanket or sheep skin
answers for a door when needed.
Within may be found a met
ate. or mealing stone, the most
primitive and sinude of all means for
pulverising food for man; a water bot
tle of basketry, smeared within and
without with pitch, contains what
water is need-d. Fresh and dressed (
mutton hangs from the roof, a fire burns j
upon tne eann in tne miuuie oi um
lodire. and the nomad knows no want.
The family sit upon sheep skins and eat
when hungry from the family mess of j
pottage, regardless of mealtimes, knives i
and forks, or plates.
FINE WEAVING.
The weaving beam (spoken of In the
Bible as the spear staff of the giant
Lahml) hangs from the roof with a
partly woven blanket, indicating their
home Industry. Two years ago having
received a rare Swedish blanket luu
years old, I sent It to Captain Keams,
who knows the Navajos well, request
ing him to huve it copied. The curious
patterns pleased the Indians, being
much like their own, and I received u
new beautiful Navajo blanket in Swed
ish Pattern, most carefully copied by
"Charlie the Weaver." I was pleased
to meet him at the dance, and he was
pleased to know me and allow us to
take his picture. He ranks first among
the Navajo weavers; a pleasant fellow.
well dressed in Navajo costume ricniy
decorated with native silver ornaments
The Niivalos and Moquis alike plant i
their corn In hills about four feet apart
and crow about one dozen stalks in a
.. net mat a nugc nuieor exp.uueu .. ---- - ---- --- ,7' f- nP i a metates or mealing-
here nt some time or a meteoric snower ' V"' ' . . ..,ih,iirai about twelve by eighteen
has unloaded them. We secured two j " heV-who had crossed cement, with a stone
of these celestial visitors. ",nnlr, Rraln is all
I ilty-eithl miles urou&ni uj io ikm- women by hand for fan
hill by level cultivation. The corn folded their blankets, their chamber
leaves and ears come out close to the work done, they went about their va
ground, and each hill looks more like a ( nous occupations.
bunch of coarse grass than like eastern e'rom the housetop we could we east
corn stalks. The kernel Is generally i ward the trail by which we had come,
black or dark blue and the enr from j Northward v.e could see many mi! -s
four to six Inches long, sound and good. uv ay "wliei" thU mesa began to ris..
Rarely will the traveler find a more , irom the plain, and farther west two
Interesting group of nomads, lllustrat- other mesas, and In sight upon these
lng fully the manners and customs or ; three elevations are built, the seven
people who know almost nothing of : cities of Cebola, called by the Spanl
our civilization, and from whom we I mds the "Province of Tusayan."
may gather many of the customs of , upon this the most easterly of the
the prehistoric races. j three rhes from the desert plain nnd
PRIMITIVE QUARTERS.
A few miles farther we reached "Bo
de Hnoche," which' signifies (in Nava
jo) "Red Rock," forty miles from Hol
brook. Bede Hooche Is the name given
to one of these grand buttes, under
the shadow of which a pioneer trader
has built the only house in sight be
tween Ilolbrook and Keam's Canyon,
a distance of seventy-five miles. The
house is a very simple affair of stones
laid In mud, with roof of poles, brush,
and earth, and a floor of boards. Here
the trader lives alone In one room
about 15 by 20 feet. He had a comfort
able bed, a cook stove, a few chairs,
a table, a cupboard, and dishes, and
cooking utensils, all kept In an orderly
manner, with plenty of coarse food,
showing how little is necessary to sus
tain life. Here we rested until 5 p. m.,
when we started on. hoping to reach
the third well, twenty-four miles dis
tant. About sundown we passed pear
a line of seven black buttes, separ
ated by sharply cut ravines, nnd rang
ed along in line like great fortresses.
They seemed to frown down upon us
as we alone broke the stillness of the
dry evening air.
Our road led us through a level un
interesting country. We pushed on
until midnight darkness forbade our
finding the spring. We made a dry
camp, slept soundly and at 7 a. m.
started on again, having made an ear-
j !y lirakfst. About 10 a. 111. we cume
i uiKiu an I'kvkttd broken plnin. sparit
. lv covered with Pinnn nine mid Junip
er, partially relieving the monotony of
the desert plain. At 11 a. m. we reuch
ed the brink of Reams' Canyon, from
which we were able to Ret an extend
ed view, including: the pleasant home
rn,o'n fl,...,,.... i.',n. a culture.!
Engllshmnn who Iihh lived here is
y.ais pn honorable tra.ler ana Mi
helper to tm Indians, liw nr fpi'r.iiiy
wr.s Beivrnus and fully anprecliited
T'r--m Keim's rvnyrn the tw Ivo
miles pns.-cd without Inc dnt. A pa-t
of t he road 1. d us thivuiRh the cti! tired
nekls of tin-Moquis. nei.r the fort of the
IN' A MOQUI VILLAGE.
SecuiiiiR an Indian to herd our anl-
fii ,,. n r,.r thpm we
,:f',,ur waRon near the home of Tom '
.olak on influential, progressive Mo- '
IN' A MOQUI VILLAGE.
qui. who has come down from the mesa ' ""en io twenty incnes square,
to live and adopt American ways. We raised ten Inches above the floor. In
secured Indians to carry our luggage dr Oils a fire U built The cook Feat
np the steeu trail bv which we must ed, near dips her hand Int.) the batter
reach the top of the mesa where the J ,ld uuickly spreads a coating of It en
Jdoqul communul dwelllnirs are locat- tirely and evenly oer the hot stone.
ed, (it l f et above the pinin. tikutiy
i. ,.'., .i, ,.hi..vi iv, i a i
Mihu., v..7 ...... v.., ........ ......
nccomi'lished In less than an nour. ami y sur n u, i,.v
at sundown we were at Tewn. the tlrst ! "rnvr and places It on the floor until
of the three pueblos on the mesa. 'U'e sufficient is baked. As it is want d the
we were met by several of this friendly several sheets are folded or rolled to
pe iple. who conducted us a third of a j Ben forming a roll about ten inches
mile to the second village. Slehumnavl. I nu Inch In diameter. In this
v here a room had been reserved for us j fc"'n lt WJ k'cp indefinitely and Is
-in the house of lslte, the weaver." He
met us pleasantly and showed us to our
oom. which was upon the ground floor
with a door, two windows, a fireplace,
n low stone bench extending the entire
length of the room, a smooth .-arth
llnor, and a clean white wall (mad so
by white elav). A small talde, two
chairs, and identy of sheep skins con
stituted the furnishings. How we rest
ed for the night among strangers in our
"own hired house!"
Many Indians came Into our room,
seating hrmselves and watching our
preparations for the night, exhibiting
the same curiosity that had prompted
us to visit them. They were kindly
and respectful until we laid our blank
ets for the night, when they silently left
us. As daylight departed the village
became quiet, no sound broke the pt'll
ness ave the barking of a dog or tne
braying of a donkey. We spread our
shcepkins upon the llnor for the night,
but. preferring onen nlr, I took my
blankets um to the house ton and
watched th- stars until lost hi sleep. I
found by daylight T had slept quite
near where our landlord and his w fe
were slc-plng. I learned It was a com
mon custom to spread the sheenskins
upon the earth roof, and. wraut in n
blanket. Slecn In the niwn nl.v nn.1 1
Bflf , . j cc;M j,,,, j UHt rPrn
many of the strange scenes of the day.
i io,iiiK..,i tlmt T wnj t'n f t'l'.-iin nit-Ill' i.
tlon a stiang-r among a strange pco-
ar.(.kliur rest nnnn the ton t.f n
strange human habitation, un-n a ih-sm
m feet above the surrmiiidlng desert
plane. N'o cheerful light gl-amed from
a white man's dwelling, only the light
of moon and stars looked down upon us
and here, almost alone, I was among a
heathen people, who knew nothing' of
us or our ninnner of living. Still n
feeling of perfect security was upon us.
FIRST SPANISH VISITORS.
I remember that Marco do Nlza. a
Spanish friar, of Cabesa de Vaco's ex
ploring expedition, of 153f. wns the
first to report of the Moquis. That Don
I'edro de Tabor, an olllcer of Vasquez
de Coronado's expedition of 1540 was
the tlrst white man to visit the Moquis.
In ljs:' Antonio Espelo. with a few
Spanish soldiers, visited them and tor-
rorizea them with the first horses they
had seen. About 100 they nominally
accepted Christianity, and permitted
the friar and the missionaries to live
among them until KSO, when all the
1'ueblos of New Mexico and Arizona re
volted and killed the Spaniards who
were living anions them. From lilSO
to 1T00 the Moquis being little molested
maintained their independence. Later
frequent efforts were made to subdue
and convert them. In 1778 a failure
of crops reduced them so much that
Uovernor Anza of New Mexico thought
It a favorable time to convert thcm.Foj--ty
families went to the Navajos for re
lief. The men were nil Blaln and wo
men and children held as slaves. Small
pox followed famine and in about three
years their number was reduced from
7.5iio to less than SO0. From this time
little effort hns been made to convert
them. Since lSlfi, their territory then
coming under United States control,
they have been molested only bv the
Navajos. In they Joined Kit Car
son In his expedition against the Nav
ajos, thus sealing friendship with the
United States, to whom thev have a'-
ways been loyal. During the past 1100
years they have been visited occasion
ally by some In pursuit of gold, some
for plunder, some to convert th'-m to
Christianity, and others from curiosity
ng ourselves. None have received any-
thing but klmlness. unless they were
aggressors. The Moquis have steadily
refused to give up the tradition and re
ligion of their fathers, and to adopt
white men's customs. In tnts consists
the delight of our visit In seeing them
living as their fathers did sou years
ago,
The name preferred by the Moquis
Is Hop!, signifying "peace." The Span
lards chunti-il this to "Moqui," which
in the Moqui language signifies "deud."
The population of th- seven Moqui vil
lages in lSiio was 1. males, wn; fe
males. 91)7. The population of Tewa
was ltil. mules, 80: females, M. The
population of Slehumnavl wa.H lO.t,
males, il; females, 52. The pop
ulation cf Walpi was males. 177;
feme.! -s 115. Total of the three villages
l!H. ii iil-s, :'IS; females, HIS. Kildeiitly
tn'iir. i:as arranged this population
inO".; f ieni of our civilization. Th"
i'Ci!?i"irii!oii, made by V. M. Zttck. of
tioll.-i o.)k. Is probably the most correct
hb h lias been made.
SI' KltoUNDINtJ VI EWS.
A.j we awoke early In the morning
; we saw all a'loul us upon the '.lousetops
i other sleepers who arose, and having
! extends in a southwesterly direction
about three tulles, reaching an altitude
of about 70 feet, In width varying from
ten feet to .ail feet, entirely barren of
vegetation, soil or water, a coarse
sandstone. About one mile from tlu
extreme south end the entire mesa is
cut by u chasm fifty feet wide, its
walls perpendicular. At this point on
the eastern side our trail reaches the
top, where is built the Pueblo of Tewa.
One-third of a mile south is Sichum
navl.and about the same distance south
at the extreme south end of the mesa
Is Walpi, the largest of the three Pu
eblos on this mesa. Here the snake
dance Is enncted every two years.
These Pueblos consist of great com
munal dwellings, similar in construc
tion, built of stone laid In a mortar of
adobe, an advanced term of primitive
architecture. They are built from one
to five stories hiyh, In terrace form,
each story receding from ten to twelve
feet. The roof of the first forms the
front yard of the second, and so on up.
The partition walls are formed Into
steps by which the upper stories may
be reached. In this way the visitor
may pass over the entire neighborhood
without descending loathe street. The
lower story Is approached only by a
ladder, and the lower front roi ins by a
ladder inside through a hole In he lloor
or roof.
Originally there were neither doors
not windows in the lower story (.re-
rently a few have put In doors and
induws) us thev are used for storage
ot grain, etc. When the ladder was
drawn up the occupants were verjr se
cure from their enemies.
MOQUI BREADMAKINO.
That we may learn of the daily Ufa
ef this CUrloUS people We Pass from door
always welcome. We sit. down with
them, give the children tri'Us to please
t hem, expluli ing that v e conic to lsarn
their way oi hvnig. Tiny laugh a'id
teem p.euaid to show us freciy. Each
family occupies two or more rooms. In
which we examined all their Industries.
First we notice as most Important the
, inhtvumi.
stones. These are
inches, set in
curlilng. Upon
ground by the
illy use With a
smaller stone In one corner Is a smell
iH"ce ui.u iinniiit j, n yw oc,iiB
lormed iiy an olla or jar with the bot-
loln broken out. Near the fireplace Is
"at stone two inches in thickness.
" ""'r"'" m nwuiure is napurai-
ed. the bread is cooktd and lis-s luose-
.
convenient for use. It is swe.-t. crls
anu painiauie. eaten dry or dipped ,n
h?"?..r.li,yrup- Js no s?.,.t.t'!1. and 18
S . Z . . u " , at"
tn n i ti wood a wonian laid on
the lloor before me a roll of this bread
'' ,J.y Lilians, pmej ana a Dowi ot
, 7, '.,7 a ,UV
? liVi t 8 lf VK th's,.act ot hFl-
tahtj I ate and found it very whole-
some
Coin prepared In various ways forms
a large part of th-li diet. They also
raise com, beans, squashes nnd melons.
Large flocks of sheep and goats furnish
plenty of meat, fre h or dvlid. From t ie
roof hangs the loom In which the blank
ets are woven. The loom is supported
nnd spread unort a stick oft times five
to six feet long nnd two to three Inches
In diameter. Near by, under the raft
ers, may be found the spindles, with
which they spin wool into yarn, and It
is surprising to see how dexterously
they ni-o able to do this. The drill with
which they perforate bends of stone nnd
shell; their bows and arrows. In fnet
most of the smoll articles which they
prize, I saw. tucked into the rrevlee
ubout the timbers which form and sup
port me root, in a corner I discovered
three stone Imaees or fetiches, ivhinli
belong to their religious ceremonies.
inese i coma not buy at any price.
They use hideous iigures, formed In
wood and clay, decorated with nnlnt
ana reathers. called cachlnas. These
represent some of their gods, or such ns
have been gods.
INDIAN BAKING POTTERY.
Tnsslng on we find a woman seated
on the ground makln;; pottery. She has
previously pulverized in a mortar a
soft stone. Adding water, Bhe has a
tine clay. She kneeds this to proper
consistency, places a ball of It upon a
smooth flut stone, and, dipping her fin
ger into water, she presses and rubs
the ball of clay into a saucer shape.
This Is to be the bottom of the vessel
to be made. She now takes in her
fingers a small, smooth stone, and by
rubbing and pressing the sides of the
saucer, she raises the rim. and quickly
forms the body of the water bottle.
She often dips the stone in water, en
abling her to make the surface of the
vessel smooth, as she rubs It to the
required shape and thickness. By
pressing and carefully smoothing she
reduces the size of the top, and forms
a narrow neck, if desired. Thus by
skillful handling, the result of long
practice, she forms a symmetrical ves
sel. She now sets lt away In tie shade
to dry. When properly dried she or
naments it with nature's mineral col
ors, using a brush prepared by chew
ing a stem of the Yucca. It Is now
ready to be baked. This is done In the
open air by piling fuel over the vessels
and tiring them to nearly a white heat,
when the coals are gradually removed
and the vessel Is complete. The water
bottle Is perhaps the most Important
vessel made here, for all the water used
in these three villages except a little
rain water, is brought in these bottles
from a spring one and one-half miles
uv.ay, at the foot of the mesa. The
bottles vary In size from one quart to
three gallons, are spherical in form,
with a short neck and small opening,
with two lugs on the side, through
which a strap or thong is secured.
The bottle Ib slung onto the back, and
the strap across the forehead, sustain
ing the load, corresponding to the man
ner in which the nquadores or water
cb filers of the City of Mexico deliver
water about the city. The Moquis are
quite expert in making pottery. The
Navajos excel In blanket-weaving, and
they exchange products.
I saw no basket-making except ths
flat, open basket, or placque, peculiar
to this people, the ornamentation of
which in figures and colors Is striking
ly beautiful. These are made from six
Inches to two feet in diameter, and are
used for common purposes about their
nouses.
FASHION IN HAIRDRESSING.
The men generally dress in citizen's
dress purchased from the trader. The
women usually wear blankets of their
own manufacture secured by a trlrdle
about the waist, a second blanket over
the shoulders, with moccasins and leg
gings of buckskin. The young women
dress their long black hair with great
care and neatness, forming great puffs
or w heels on each side of the head, in
shape resembling a large toadstool.
This form typifies the open squash
blossom, the Moqui symbol of maiden
hood. Married women wear the' hair
In rolls, which represent the faded
squash blossom. Their hair brushes
are simply bunches of fine reeds, about
twelve inches long, tied in a bundle
aooui ine size t tne wrist. They an
swer the purpose equally well for
sweeping Hour In the grinding bins or
dressing my lady hair. An unusual
activity pervades the village as visitors
from the neighboring tribes arrive to
attend the snake dance of the morrow.
Dancing amony the various Indian
tribes is not only u favorite amusement,
but a part of their important religious
ceremonies, and when conducted as
the prayer of a people to their Creator
rightfully commands the respect of
... , 1 , 1 - -
CnrisiiaiiH. To the casual observer ac-
cust lined to the music, dress, stvle and
sui rounding!-- of tbe dances of civiliza
tion, the Indian dance Is meaningless
and repulsive. The attempt at music
to us Is woife than a failure. It con
sists of discordant Bounds, made by
beating rude drums, shaking rude rat
tles, chnnting, moaning, ami humming
in copl uslon rather than harmony.
They follow a leader, whose ability 'is
shown in strength of voice and endur
ance. And yet when we realize that
from these crude efforts, by evolution,
music has become a science which de
lights the soul of man. savage or civil
ized, we must look upon these crude
efforts with interest.
In this manner let us consider the
snake dance we have come so far to see.
The snake dance of the Moquis occurs
once in two years in August, in the open
street on the east side of Walpi betw er
the houses and edge of thp cliff. A big
sandstone pillar, in shape like an hour
glass, fifteen fet high, left by erosion
on the top of the mesa, is called the
sacred rock. Il stands at the south
end of the dance ground. Near, nnd
to the south, are the entrances to two
subterranean estufas (or kevas), the
sacred council chamber, a part of every
pueblo. In some they are built above
ground, and circular. Here they are
hewn out of bedrock of the mesa, and
are reached only by a ladder from
above.
CELEBRATED SNAKE DANCE.
Close to the building, and about mid
way to the dance ground a little booth
of cottonwood bought has been pre
pared. Under it a cavity in the rock
is covered by a plank. In this cavity
the snakes have been deposited by the
snake priest. The snake, to the Moqui,
symbolizes the god of water. The
lightning which precedes the rain Is the
makes tall lashinc the clouds. me
thunder is th r.n,.rt rf lh blow. Th
niiuKe is nis meuiuior, ana waier
that dry country bcliiK the greatest
good, as it pioduces for them vital re
sults, they make the greatest efforts to
propitiate the sod of water, that he
luuy Bend them rain..
Kor eight days before the dance re
ligious, exercises, preparatory to the
snake dance are held in the estufa.
They are of a secret nature and few
tvftiftA man hava Vinan admitted. The
uanoe iH the dosing ceremony of this
. 1)raver ror the much-needed rain.
ti, .,,....,1,0..,. e .h- ar.al.. ni-ilcr
rank nt,xt to tne ambers of the snake
oider. and assist In the preliminaries or
i.. .i ei .i.. hfnru th
dunce the snake men ro down into the
plaln aI1(j hunt for tne rattlesnake.
Kaon hunter carries a bunch ot eagie
feathers (bahoo) with which he tickles
the snake until It attempts to run away,
when the hunter carefully grasps the
snake near the head and thrusts it into
a leathern bag. carried tor the purpose.
These pre carried to the estufa. care'
r.,n.. .....ok.i ,.'n .., v,.,n
uctwiivu ,-,.....v..
Jars ready for the dance. For five
days previous to the dance the snake
dancers, having gathered in the estufa,
fast and purify themselves, drinking
copiously of a decoction of herbs pre
pared by the snake priest. This ren
ders them impervious to the snake poi-
i on. The preparation is a secret and Is
generally believed by best informed
white men to be effective, as not unfre-
fluently the dancers are bitten without
gerlous results. It Is called "manque-
Ua " or "virgin drink "
Aliout half an hour before, sunset the
About half an hour before sunset the
dancers emerge from the estufa. lillns
, order to the snake booth, where the5
S
they
hold a preliminary rite, dancing to a
rattle of gourds. In a short time they
are followed by the "snake order." the
two orders being distinguished by dif
ferences In paint and costume. After
some preliminary exercises and Invoca
tions, the "snake men," now being In
line, painted and decked with fur and
feathers, carrying rattles made of small
gourds In their hands, each having a
rattle made of a turtle shell tied onto
the calf of his leg, at a signal march
around the dance ground shaking the
rattles. As they pass the booth every 1
man stamps on the plank under which
the snakes are In waiting. This indi
cates to the spirits that they are about
to present their prayers. Two little
boys not more than 6 years old were
among the dancers. I Imagine they
were hereditary dancers,
SNAKE BETWEEN TEETH.
The dancers now receive the snakes
from the hand of the snake priest. The
aancer takes the snake between his
teeth, about two inches from its head,
iioiuing 11 nrmly, so that the Bnake
cannot turn and strike his face. Some
times a dancer held two small snakes,
their heads In opposite directions. One
dancer carried a Btnall snake entirely
in his mouth except his head, and car
ried it thus throughout the dance. One
large snake twisted itself so tightly
into its captor's long hair that he re
quired help to disentangle it. Fre
quently the dancers flung the snakes
irom tneir mouths by a quick Jerk of
the head forward. When the liberated
snake would coll on the ground to
strike, a dancer would strike lt with an
eagle's feather, which at once cuused It
to try to escape. As quick as lt was
uncoiled and in retreat, the dancer
would quickly catch It In his hand,
grasping It near the head, take it
again in his mouth, and resume the
dance.
In all cases the Utmost care seemed
to be used to catch the snake tn the
same' manner and avoid being bitten.
I feel confident that the snakes were
not drugged nor their fangs removed.
as all exercised a prudent care In hand
ling them. One man was bitten on the
face, one on the finger, but I did not
learn or serious results.
In about an hour from the beginning
the line of dancers passed near the
"sacred stone." Each man dropped his
snakes near the base, and over this
mass of snakes cornmeal waa freely
sprinkled, while others with eagle
feathers, kept the snakes together. At
a signal each dancer seized several
snakes in his hands and ran past the
crowd down the mesa Into the plain and
released the snakes. The dance was
ended., the prayer over, and all retired
to await the answer, much as Chris
tians do.
TheWnlng before we left the pueb
lo thihief called to bid us good-by.
In Imperfect English and by signs he
presented us a pipe, saying: "You my
friend; Moqui like good friends. When
at home you smoke this pipe remember
Moqui chief." Becoming interested In
his efforts to talk, we secured an In
terpreter and found his Ideas were
manly and dignified, becoming his po
sition as chief. We duly appreciated
the natural eloquence of the untutored
savage and wished we could converse
In his native language. Our visit to
the Moquis had been a most plensnnt
one, and we left our new-made friends
with much respect for their simple,
honest ways. Returning to Keam's
Canon, we spent the night again in
Captain Keams' hospitable home.
INDIAN SCHOOLING.
Being only two miles from the gov
ernment Indian school, located for the
Moquis, we dee'ded to visit it on our
way home. Next morning we bade our
host adieu and started for home via
the Indian school. It being vacation,
the school not In session, we only saw
the buildings and surroundings, which
were not calculated to inspire us with
confidence in the Indian work.
In lS!d the United States government
decided to educate the Moquis. They
sent an agent to inform them that they
must send their children to the school.
The Moqui objected. He did not wish
the white man to educate his child.
(Hear in mind the Moqui Indians are
all citizens of the United States by vir
tue of the laws of Mexico and treaty
of Guadlolipe Hidalgo 1848.) As the
agent had only ten soldiers, the chief
told him to to or he would kill him.
He went, nnd returned with about
eighty soldiers, when the chief said:
"You can take the children. 1 cannot
contend against so many. I did not
know there was so many soldiers In
the world." So the children went to
school.
Near the school house Is a most beau
tiful spr'ng of pure water. This tlrst
caused Captain Keam to build his trad
. in ;vfi iicici mm iiiici 1 it auitl nut I J
the government, as the spring was
ing ;iost here, and later he sold out to
needed for the school. In October. l6:i.
Colonel Kit Carson, commanding the
First Regiment of New Mexico Volun
teers, called upon the Moquis, when on
his way to subdue the marauding
Navujos, to secure a closer friendship
with the Moquis. and entirely alienate
them from the Novnjos. He induced
representatives of the Moqui villnges
to accompany him on the warpath.
This spring induced him to camp here,
nnd he left the following Inscription
deeply cut in the face of a huge wall
of sandstone, only a few rods from the
Indian school house:
F1P.8T REGIMENT N. M. VOLS.,
Aug. 8, im.
COLONEL C. CARSON.
t
DEATH TRAP FOR CAME.
Having filled our keer at the spring
we took the road leading back to Hol
brook. With little variation the ab
sence of vegetation and animal life
renders the plain monotonous. Dry
weather and the Winchester rifle have
reduced the great herds of antelopes and
deer which a few years ago were so
abundant. We crossed a long line of
brush fence and I Inquired of our driv
er what It was made for. He replied:
"You see, this line terminates at the
edge and, head of a deep ravine and on
the opposite side, a few feet away, an
other brush fence was built extending
SELLING ONLY FOR GASH
Compel to SHAVE PRICES to as low a po'nt as Is possi
ble (or jood, staple aud legitimate merchindlse."
IlEKE AHE SOME TEJiniXG OFFERS:
UNDERWEAR.
A complete line of all weights and sizes.
Fleece lined underwear, extra A"7r
heavy lis
Heavy blue ribbed, absolutely
fast color
All natural wool and camel's
hair
47c
87c
All wool fleece, fine Quality, Ci nn
only
Everything In heavy cotton and wool
ribbed Jaros, Jaegers, Holroyris, and
many other mokes of finest wool under
wear at icreat reductions.
Although au entire new department, we have had wonderful success
There is some tone about our line of clothing that compares very fayirablj
with any clothing made to measure by swell merchant tailors.
Genuine Clay worsted sack and
frock suits, guaranteed not toCIrt nn
fade or wear nlosay '0'uu
Fall weight overcoats of black
Vicuna, pure silk lined undC. nfl
faced, marked as low as '0'uu
far away in an opposite direction. The
Indian formerly drew the antelope Into
these lines of fence. - They rushed down
into the ravine, only to find they were
In a secure inclosure from which they
could not escape, and were easily killed
with the -bow and arrow." With the
Improved rifle the brush fence has fall
en into disuse.
Reaching Bede Hooche, we gladly
accepted the invitation of our new made
friend to spend a night with him un-J
der the shadow of the great Red Rock I
The following morning we took the
Atlantic and Pacific Railrond east 25
miles tn Adameda. a new station most
convenient to the most remarkable por
tions of the petrified forest, more popu
larly called Chalcedony Park. Here we
met Adam Hanna. a cattle rancher,
who lives near, and Is prepared to take
passengers to the petrified forest, six
miles away, nnd care for them until
ready to take the train again.
IN THE PETRIFIED FOREST.
We were soon on our way. The dis
tance seemed short as we listened to
Hanna's account of the many wonder
ful things to be seen near us. Soon we
entered a desert valley (estimated at
10,000 acres), surrounded by a high
level plain, and dotted by buttes show
ing how the original levels have been
eroded by nature's forces. Strange,
fantastic forms meet the eye in every
direction. A small needle called Eagle
Rock stands about lot) feet high, quite
noticeable in the distance. This Is
simply a wasted bute. which, being
hnrder, has longer withstood the de
stroying forces' of nature. At the same
level half a mile away, upon the top
of a larger butte. rests a petrified log,
four feet In diameter and twenty-five
feet long.
Like a mounted cannon It overlooks
the ruin of Its fellows, who once rested
upon the surface at the same level,
but having been undermined by erosion
have fallen to the level below, and then
broken In pieces. Contrary to the hnblt
of decaying lmbs thes petrl-d Iocs
separate t o,-sverfe'y, almost as
squarely and smoothly ns If cut b u
saw. Large and small follow the
same law, and we select beautiful
specimens of chalcedony In colors from
three to eight Inches in diameter, and
only two to five Inches long, showing
the heirtof the growth and apparently
the outside. Beyond the destruction of
the wonderful logs by having fallen
against each other as described, the
human vandnl has b?ein here with
dynamite and hammer, and has broken
them to pieces In the hone that he
might find some hidden crystal to sell
for a dollar.
Many ncres are thickly spread with
fragments, beautiful in colors, and pol
ished bv the sands driven over them
bv desert winds. They gl'sten in the
sunlicht. For miles we wander through
similar conditions, passing a wealth ol
bentitiful specimens that we cannot
carry. We select beautiful ones oniy
to exenange mem -101- uim-u .
seem more desirable. 1 Pnslng east
ward we climb the bluff to the upper
level of the surrounding plain. In so
doing we notice the ends of petrified
logs protruding from the sandstone
walls of the bluff, Indientlng that when
these logs rested in their present posi
tioi, either th" sandstone was plastic,
nnd they settled into lt. or that it was
deposited about and over the logs when
it was in a granular state.
We pass a short mile over the 1 v 1
mesa and come to the head of a small
ravine. Here the trunk of a petrified
! tree, about five feet in diameter, forms
a natural brhige over this ravin".
Each end of this log rests In so'kl
sandstone rock, wh'ch forms the walls
of this canyon, and ten feet below the
surface of the reck. The ravine is 'forty
feet deep under the bri.'g''. n"d as we
passed the bridge v.-e found It meas
ured forty-four feet, a solid span of
chalcedony.
IN DIAN P1CTOCR APHS.
We Judge from what we have seen
that some time In the past this strata
of sandstone, vurying In thickness from
thirty to fifty feet, must have been
a drifting body of sand and water: that
trpon Its surface lloated n fallen forest.
Some heavy bodies sank d'-ep. while the
majority tloafd, and 'the receding
waters left them upon (he surface.
Whence it came we cannot tell. Ap
pearances indicate that it came from
northward.
In some places we saw great bodies of
a conglomerate rock, wherein a fine
gravel has been closely cemented. In
some instances we saw lt adhering
firmly to the petrified logs.
Leaving the natural bridge six mile?
from the road, we retrace our steps, and
passing down into the lower plain we
drive obout six miles through similar
conditions. We are pl-ased to see pic
tographs made 011 the rocks by the In
dians and wish we could know their
meaning. We trace them In our mem
orandum book. Noticing one more dis
tinct than the average, we are about
to copy it, when our driver says: "Hold
on there, lemme tell you. When we
were camped down here with our stock,
we were trying to form a new brand for
our cattle, nnd I toik a stem nnd picked
those marks myself. It makes a good
cattle brand."
Having wandered among the petrified
fragments until noon we dug another
water hole, ate our lunch, and leaving
this natural wonder we started across
a nearly level plain for Holbrook, twenty-five
miles westward.
The arrangements for reac hing the
forest are now such that the tourist
may easily examine It by stooping off
one day at Adameda station, two miles
from which may be seen the ruins of a
prehistoric dwelling.
At Holbrook we take the cars for Pas
adena, our entire trip having occupied
less than three weeks, and sve feel sure
that the student or tourist cannot find
a more wild, unknown, and interesting
country on this continent than in Ari
zona. Coming from the east of the
Mississippi river the monotony, ot the
SHIRT SPECIAL.
Finest quality percale plaited
colored bosom shirts. In
cluding one pair link cuffs, C
were $2.00. now only
13c. Collars, all styles, now loe
Cuffs now oniy isa
Doe. Suspenders now only 15a
HATS.
The tl.fx Rrade now ,
The $2.00 grade now
The $2.50 grade now
.... Si.ia
.... i.go
Our swell "Epsom" top coats,
very natty ga-ment in ray
and brown mixed Vicunas, ele-Cf g rn
gantly trimmed pi;.VU
Pine English covert cloth top
coats. A complete line, cut
In the very latest fashion, iH-Cir ui
lng as low as IU.UU
plains of Kansas may be felt, but from
Trinidad to the Pacific the country pre
sents a constantly changing panorama
strangely different from that to be seen
elsewhere, and never to be forgotten.
Each "ow observer finds something un
descrlbed. '
E. ROBINSON'S
Lager
Beer
Brewery
Manufacturers t ths CelsbrsiM
flu Hi to
CAPAClTYl
100,000 Barrels per Annum
11 m siuup
IN
I
Has been predicted all through the
season (uttpaat. THIS IS THE WAY
HLMBERS HAVE BEEN K EDUCED,
'06 Price.
'07 Price.
Roadster, $110.00 $115.00
Tourist, 112.50 117.50
Lady Humber, 117.50 122.50
Racer, 125.00 150.00
Prices see m high, but then you
know it'n llUMBLK QUALITY.
CHASE & FARRAR
515 Linden Street.
YHt 5.T!' "!
lfafirrph4
Irw Lilt.
REVIVE
RESTORES VITALITY.
4-2-
mm
Made a
Weil Mart
1st Day. 1
18th Day. tjfl of Me.
THE QPSAT soth tls.
FZIBNOSI nEMBDV
proilaees the above reonlts In 30 ly. It U
IKjwert tilly and quickly. Curm wlifQ all other fail
Voiidk men will r-gam thnr lout manhood, anil ol.
iiirn will rwover their joulhtiil vigor by using1
IIEV1VO. It quirk lyauJiiirelr reatorra Nervous-m-m.
I.o-t Vitality, Impotenry. Nightly tmimilotif.
Ixist l ower. Falling Memory, Waatine Dfreaaee. and
all effect ot wlf-abuae or rirrna and Intliacrction,
ivhlcb. tmtit-4 one tor a- mly. bimlneao or marriage. It
not only cunN by n'arting at tbe prat of d.J?aft. but
to a great nerve tonic and Mood bnllder, bring
lng liark the pink erlow to pale rheekeandre
tnrir.g tbe firs of youth. It vardr off Insanity
and on umption. Iuait on having KKVIVO.no
illier. It ran be carried in vent rocket. By nril,
I.IK) per package, on aix tor SS.OO, with a poM
le written guarantee to cure or re rued
he none jr. Circular free, Addrea
MPOICIHE M) . til'.f St.. CHICAGO. I'
For Sal by MATTHEWS BROS., Oral
gist Mrsatoo. Fa
1
T
.el 9s.